Drilling longitudinal holes in a wooden block. How to drill a hole in wood. Rules for drilling holes in wood

In the workshop of a home craftsman, an electric drill takes pride of place. This is the first invented power tool in the world. An indispensable assistant for drilling holes continues to amaze with its application possibilities. A real lifesaver, which is very easy to use. Below we will talk about how to work with this tool, how to insert or pull out a drill, what else is possible.

Main functions of the tool

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill holes in materials. It was for this that Wilhelm Fein invented it in 1895.

Inside the plastic case are the components:

electric motor;
starting switch;
reducer;
reverse;
retainer;
capacitor;
impact mechanism.

A cartridge for nozzles is attached to the shaft (spindle) of the drill using a thread and a fixing screw.

The fixed drill rotates both to the right and to the left. For this, a reverse switch is placed on the body. In this mode, it is only allowed to withdraw the drill from the hole or unscrew the screws and screws. Switch on for a short time at low speeds.

Drill operating modes

Many had to hammer the wall with a bolt in order to hang a cornice or a picture. Now this is done with a drill by setting correct mode work.

Unstressed. In this mode, joinery and locksmith work is carried out.
Shock. For work with concrete, brick or stone base. The rotating drill moves in the longitudinal direction and makes translational (impact) movements.

The speed of the drill for different tasks is different and is regulated in two ways.

Mechanical. The desired position is set on the scale. As the speed decreases, the torque increases. The output power does not change, even under load. You can set the speed while the drill is running.
Electronic. The built-in rheostat regulates the speed. When you lightly press the switch key, the drill rotates at low speed. As the pressure increases, the speed increases until it reaches the set limit. The extreme value can be limited by a special wheel on the button. The output power is reduced with this method.

Drill locking mechanism

A drill that is inserted incorrectly is difficult to work with. It breaks or flies out, resulting in an uneven hole.

The drill has a chuck. An adjusting ring moves along the surface of the hollow cylinder. The chuck is mounted on the drill shaft with a base with a threaded or conical hole.

How to insert a drill into a chuck

Step 1. The jaws of the chuck are closed.

Step 2. Rotate the adjusting ring counterclockwise by hand. The cams inside the chuck diverge to a distance slightly larger than the size of the drill.

Step 3. We insert the drill into the chuck to the fullest possible depth. The diameter of the clamped tool is allowed 2 - 13 mm.

Step 4. By rotating the adjusting ring clockwise, we clamp the drill.

Step 5. We insert the key for the drill into the hole on the chuck body so that the teeth on the key and the chuck are closed.

Step 6 With a little pressure, turn the key clockwise until it stops to securely fix the drill. There are 2 - 3 turnkey holes, we insert into each in turn for uniform clamping.

Step 7. The drill is ready to go.

Before carrying out any maintenance work, remove the plug from the socket.
In order not to lose the key, the masters fix it with electrical tape on the drill wire.

Less commonly used keyless chuck, which is twisted without a key. Available with one or two anti-slip adjusting sleeves. If there is only one sleeve, the body of the drill is held motionless. If there are two sleeves, the part fixed on the spindle remains stationary. The movable part is turned by hand: when fixing the drill clockwise, when removing it against.

How to remove a drill from a chuck

The drill can only be removed from the switched off tool.
Rotating, the drill and the chuck are very hot. Do not touch them with bare hands immediately after turning off.

If there are no troubles with the drill, such as jamming or breakage, it is easy to get it out of the chuck. Operate in reverse okay.

The key is inserted in turn into the holes of the cartridge, slightly turned counterclockwise. The compression of the cams weakens.
The adjusting ring is manually turned counterclockwise. The fists inside diverge.
Take out the drill.

If the drill has a locking mechanism, first press the lock button.

How to use a drill: basic rules

Beginning of work

Before switching on, check the plug and cord. If damaged, the drill must not be used. The plug must fit snugly into the socket.
The side handle (if present) is put on the spindle and fixed in any direction. It gives you more control over the instrument.
The drill is tightly fixed in the drill.
Set the switch to drill/drill mode.
To limit the depth, set and fix the position of the limiter.
The regulator sets the speed limit.
There are drills with the function of recognizing the diameter of the drill in the range of 3 - 13 mm. In this case, automation takes into account the size of the drill and the material being processed. The optimum speed is determined by the autopilot. Automation cannot be used if the drill is larger in diameter than the shank. Then desired speed set manually.
Press the switch key. If the speed control is electronic, it is changed by smoothly pressing the trigger.

How to make a vertical, horizontal, angled hole in wood

During drilling, the workpiece or part is tightly clamped in a vice on a workbench or with clamps to the desktop.
In no case should you hold the part with your hands, both hands should be free.

Holes with an electric drill in any material are drilled only at an angle of 90 0.

How to drill a vertical hole

Put the drill in drilling mode.
Select speed: the thinner the drill, the higher. The diameters of the drill and the screw shaft must be equal. Otherwise, the screw is difficult to insert, the wood cracks.
If the hole is through, it is good to place a wooden block under the workpiece. So the edges of the hole do not split when the drill exits.
If the hole is blind, its diameter and depth should be the same as for a screw. Even if you screw in self-tapping screws, pre-drilling lightly will facilitate the work.
The drill enters the surface only at a right angle. Having fixed the tip of the drill in the wood, to obtain a smooth edge of the hole, turn on the maximum speed. The higher the speed, the more precisely the drill moves and cuts the wood fibers.

Video: how to drill a perpendicular hole using homemade products

For a horizontal hole, only the workpiece is moved. If an angled hole is required, the desired position of the part is set in a vise. It is firmly clamped with a bias so that the drill enters perpendicular to the surface.

If a hole is needed in a part of a non-standard shape (for example, a cylindrical one), one or more gaskets are prepared. They fix the desired position of the workpiece in a vise and guide the drill (preferably with a centering point) to the drilling point.

The drill only enters a flat surface. Professionals use a jig for drilling at an angle, which is attached to the part.

The simplest conductor can be made independently.

In a bar with a thickness of 50 - 60 mm, drill a hole at an angle of 90 0 with a depth of not more than 5 mm.
Without removing the drill from the hole, change its direction to the desired angle. Pre-drilling will prevent it from slipping out. Drill the bar to the full depth.
The primitive conductor is ready. The drilled hole will serve as a guide for the drill.

If the masters do not want to use conductors, they come up with convenient devices for themselves.

Video: angle drilling fixture

How to drill holes in concrete and masonry

If perpendicular holes are drilled during construction work, the support post will ensure the exact direction of the drill. The drilling depth gauge will tell you when to stop. If it is not included in the drill package, do it yourself. A wooden cube is “cut” onto the drill with which they will work. The free section of the drill is equal to the desired depth. Or they wind tape on a drill in front of such a section.

Only the perforator can withstand a long load in shock mode. But for short-term work, a drill is suitable. To do this, set the shock mode and work at high speeds. It is important to make sure that there are no concealed wiring or fittings.

When drilling such surfaces, a lot of dust and debris gets on the drill, you need to clean it in a timely manner.
At the end of the work, the cartridge is blown with a jet of compressed air.

Quickly drill through walls or ceilings with drills marked "for concrete" with a carbide cutting tip. Ideally, if they have a hex shank. The maximum drilling diameter in concrete is 16 mm. If the holes are up to 8 mm, it is easy to work with diamond drills.

Video: a hole in a concrete wall for a plinth

For drilling a hole large diameter(For electrical outlet) use an annular nozzle.

When drilling bricks, carbide drills with victorious soldering are chosen. Drilling at high speeds in shock mode. It is important that no electrical wiring passes inside the masonry. The drilling site is marked with a center punch, the tip of the drill is placed in the hole. Drill perpendicularly so as not to break the drill. The process requires gentle pressure on the drill and regular cooling of the drill in cold water.

When using a drill in impact mode, safety goggles are a must. They will protect your eyes from dust, pieces of concrete and bricks.

How to drill metals

The maximum allowable drill diameter when working with steel is 13 mm.

For steel, drills marked "for metal" are chosen. If the part is small, fix it in a vise. Determine the place of drilling with a center punch, lightly hit. A small depression is formed, the end of the drill is placed into it at a right angle. Drill metal with constant pressure. If the metal is hard, drilling is slow. Soft metal is processed at medium speeds.

The drill is removed from the drilled metal without turning off the drill. Turn off when it is completely out of the hole.
They work with metal in protective glasses, in tight-fitting clothes with long sleeves, so as not to suffer from sparks and prickly metal chips.

For of stainless steel use drills marked "for stainless steel". A simple drill immediately overheats during operation, and the viscous metal melts. For cooling, special compositions based on sulfur and machine oil are used. The drill is set to the minimum speed (100-600). If there is no smooth adjustment, they drill gradually: they start the tool for 1–2 seconds and immediately turn it off.

Video: how to drill metal

After long work at low speed, the drill is switched to maximum speed. Let it work for Idling 2-3 minutes to cool.

For cast iron, drills "for cast iron" with a special sharpening are used. But it is difficult to find them, so they choose carbide drills for metal. Cast iron is a hard material, but it breaks easily if handled carelessly. The chosen place is cleaned. Drilling starts with a small diameter at low speed, constantly cooling the drill with a kerosene or water-based solution. Haste and increased pressure will only hurt.

Excessive pressure damages the instrument. It is better to start drilling with small drill diameters or with less pressure on the drill.

For a channel, metal drills are needed from 3.5 mm to the desired one in increments of 2-3 mm. Drill holes are stuffed with a center punch. Drill with low pressure, starting with a smaller diameter, gradually reaming the hole. Drills are constantly lubricated with machine oil. It is easier to use diamond drills.

How to make a groove in a tree

The workpiece is securely fixed in a vise or clamp to avoid scrolling and prevent accidents. It is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands.

To make a clean, smooth, even groove can only be done with a cutter. In the absence of a milling machine, the craftsmen fix a cutter from a milling cutter with a shank with a diameter of 8 mm into a drill. The spindle speed of the drill is not enough for serious processing. The option is only suitable for rough work.

To make gutters, channels will help a nozzle for drilling wood. The six-flute serrated drill drills at high speed. The wood does not split, the surface remains smooth. Drilling takes place in three directions and succeeds where ordinary drills fail.

For small rough grooves, a special drill bit with longitudinal cutting edges and transverse cuts is used.

Video: drill cutter in action

Method of home masters

They are used when there are no cutters and such a drill.

Markings are made on the workpiece and a groove is simply drilled, controlling the depth. If the drill is electronically adjustable, start at low speed. When there is no such function, special wood drills are used. They are helical, made of high strength steel and have a centering point. The tip of the drill is fixed in the tree, turn on the maximum speed.

Jumpers remain between the holes, which are then removed with a chisel and cleaned with sandpaper.

For holes with a diameter of 10–32 mm, ring drills are used.

How to drill a tile

Sometimes you need a hole in the wall lined tiles. Tiles, tiles and other materials that crack should not be drill in impact mode. If the hole is small, drill ceramic tiles with a drill for glass and tiles until it stops. Then insert a drill for concrete and continue to work in punch mode. For a large hole, drill a tile with a diamond-coated core drill, then continue to work on concrete.

Why are sparks in a drill dangerous?

An electric drill, like any other power tool, requires systematic maintenance. Spare parts wear out during operation, the lubricant dries up.

Drill brushes require regular replacement. One of the manifestations of the problem is that with normal voltage in the network, the electric motor does not work. A bright signal is the formation of an all-round fire on the collector. The sight is beautiful, but dangerous. In order not to ruin the anchor of the drill, they are changed. It is advisable to buy original, not Chinese ones. With them, the tool will last much longer.

Please note: brushes are not universal. If you do not know what size you need, take the old one with you for a sample.

The design of the drill allows you to replace the brushes yourself. There are models in which there are installation windows for brushes on the body. The replacement is simple:

Plugs are unscrewed from the installation windows.
Take out worn brushes.
Install new brushes.
Screw caps.

Other models require minimal drill disassembly:

Unscrew all screws on the case. Remove cover. It is more convenient to leave the screws in it in their “native” places.
Take out the brush holders, remove the worn brushes from them.
Insert new brushes, firmly drowning the spring.
Insert the brush holders into place, tighten the electrical contact of the supply wire well.
Close the housing cover, tighten the screws.

Video: how to replace brushes

Nozzles: saving effort and money

If we make a rating of power tools for which manufacturers produce additional nozzles and accessories, the electric drill is the leader in it. The drilling tool turns into multifunctional machine For repair work. She saws, cuts, mills, grinds and much more. In terms of performance, it will not fully replace every tool, but it solves short-term tasks for a home master.

To work, the nozzle shank is clamped in the drill chuck, like a simple drill, and the drilling mode is set.

Grinding and polishing

For grinding, a nozzle for circles with Velcro is used, where abrasive circles of different grain sizes are attached. Cup or disc grind metal, wood. IN hard-to-reach places use a fan attachment.

A file attachment is a pin that is attached to the chuck at one end. On the other, it has soldering in the form of a cone, bullet or ball. They are called skewers. The nozzle bores and grinds the holes. Rasps are used for rough grinding, deburring.

The drill becomes an electric grinder with special nozzles. The sharpening angle is adjustable, you can sharpen anything: drills, chisels, disk blades.

Properly sharpened drills give the quality of drilling, jam less often, save the tool.

Polishing nozzles: soft felt, special for the car, polishing the ends of the skin and others. To work with rotation in any direction, choose a speed of 1000 revolutions.

Nozzle scissors on the drill "Cricket"

With such a nozzle, the drill becomes a nibbling scissors for sheet metal, corrugated board and plastic. The shank is attached to the drill chuck. It has two cutting heads that are set to the desired degree. At a speed of 3000 revolutions, it gives a burr-free cut. You can abruptly change the direction of the cut for the manufacture of figured parts.

Video: nozzle "Cricket" in action

Nozzles that make it easier

Corner. Works in hard-to-reach places like a drill and a screwdriver.

Cutters for drywall. Used in the installation of sockets, junction boxes.

Flexible shaft. One side is attached to the drill chuck, the drill chuck is on the other end. Drills where a drill without such a nozzle can not cope.

How else to use a drill

Like a drilling machine

A well-equipped home workshop necessarily includes a stand for an electric drill. Only using this guide attachment, do complex work. For example, with special accuracy, up to tenths of a millimeter, a hole is drilled. A drill stand with a fixed drill turns into drilling machine.

It is necessary when working with hard materials that are difficult to process. Without a strict direction, the drill does not plunge into the depth, but only scratches such a surface.

A stand with a rotation of the working head or clamping device by 90 0 or 360 0 is preferred.

If the movable stands are firmly fixed on the desktop, they drill both perpendicularly and under right angle to the surface of the workpiece. In addition, tripods keep the drill from shifting to the side. Set screws will help to accurately maintain the specified drilling depth.

The drill is clamped in the stand - the compact home drilling machine with smooth feed is ready to work. Manufacturers allow only tools marked “professional” to be used in it.

Video: homemade electric drill stand

If you fix it on a stand milling machine with an upper spindle, you get a home milling machine.

Like a screwdriver

The drill easily replaces the screwdriver. To work with screws, screws, remove jammed nozzles, turn on the reverse. Screws and bolts are turned at low speed.

Be careful, when tightening long screws, the drill may slip.

The directions of rotation are switched by the reverse lever after the drill stops.

Drill like a mixer

Manufacturers produce drill mixer attachments that mix liquid and powder materials from the bottom up. The drill will master the volume of no more than 10 liters. It is better not to practice this mode for a long time. Not suitable for heavy concrete mixes.

It is better to use special drill-mixers. In their design there are additional handles. The intended purpose is the mixing of mixtures. Comes complete with nozzles, works for a long time without overheating. As a drill, it only supports drilling mode. The price of such units is much higher.

Drill: unexpected use

An electric drill is bought for drilling. Then they discover great new application ideas.

Cut steel cable, copper and aluminum cable with a sector nozzle.
Remove dust by connecting the dust extractor to the vacuum cleaner.
Cut threads in blind holes without fear of breaking the tap, at minimum torque.
Calibrate PP-R pipes with a calibrator attachment.
Pumping and pumping liquids with a nozzle-pump.
Pinch the bird. Soft beater fingers of the nozzle do not damage the skin.
Cream honey with a stainless steel nozzle similar to a mixer.

Video: amusing homemade products for an electric drill

Proper handling prolongs life

In order for a home electric station wagon to help for many years, a number of rules are followed.

Not allowed mechanical damage(blows, falls).
Constant overload mode is dangerous. When the indicator is on, the power tool is working at its limit.
Avoid prolonged continuous operation. A non-professional tool needs frequent rest. Periodically check the temperature of the case: if you can’t hold your palm on it, the drill is turned off. They recommend 15 minutes of work, then a break until the temperature of the drill compares with the ambient temperature. The total operating time per day is 4 - 5 hours, the intervals for turning on and resting are approximately the same.
Do not use during rain or snow, in a very dusty room.
Rooms with aggressive or explosive environments can have a threatening effect on the parts of the drill. Power tool generates sparks, dust or fumes may ignite.
Work with caution in the area of \u200b\u200belectric wiring.
Turning the drill on and off is carried out at idle.
The drill is not released from the hands until the rotation of the cartridge stops completely, so as not to lose control over it.
After work, clean dirt and dust in ventilation holes on the motor housing.
During long breaks in work, the cartridge and spindle are covered with a layer of conservation lubricant (technical petroleum jelly).

How do drills usually differ from each other? Power, modes, speed and set additional features. They are different: miniature and large, rechargeable and mains powered, made of cheap plastic and with heaped anti-slip inserts. But each of them is the queen in the realm of home power tools.

When building a house from a bar, among the tools there must be a drill for drilling a bar under the dowels. Without it, it is simply impossible to build a solid, unshakable wall.

If at wooden construction logs are used, their position relative to each other is fixed due to the grooves. Groove - a recess selected along the entire length of the log. With this groove, the upper log, as it were, covers the lower one and thereby creates immobility of the logs. But the beam, which has even edges, should have additional clamps.

Timber construction has whole line benefits. The wall remains flat, which is very convenient for subsequent finishing. The thickness of the walls made of timber will be the same everywhere, in contrast to the log. A house or a bath is being built directly on the foundation, that is, there is no such additional problem as the transportation and installation of a log house made elsewhere. But the issue of fastening the timber to the wall must be taken extremely responsibly. It is on this that the strength of the structure depends.

Some unfortunate craftsmen solve this problem simply by using nails, staples, and the like. It is strongly not recommended to do so! Wood is a living material. It is subject to shrinkage and shrinkage. A nail, hard driven into 2 beams, prevents this shrinkage, and 1 beam, as it were, hangs over the other, forming a gap. A wall with slots is not a wall, as heat escapes, and frost, on the contrary, sneaks into the house.

To prevent this from happening, it would be correct to drill holes for dowels in the timber. The dowel is a wooden rod with chamfers. It is made from wood hard rock such as birch.

Shkant large sizes replacing a nail is often called a dowel. Both names are correct and mean the same thing. Nagel can be both homemade and industrial production. IN Lately for dowels, it has become convenient to use rake handles sold in every hardware store. This is due to the successful correspondence of the diameter of such a cutting 25 mm with the diameter of the drill for wood. A size of 25 mm is optimal for fastening a beam of 150x150 mm, which is usually used in construction.

How to fasten a beam

In order to work with the timber easily and without problems, the best solution would be to buy a twist drill. Its design is such that it enters the tree with the effect of a self-tapping screw, without the need to put pressure on the drill. The price of such a drill is higher than that of a feather drill, but the quality of the hole is worth the cost. The edges are not torn, there is no axial deviation, the diameter is strictly the same throughout the depth. The length of the drill should exceed the thickness of the timber by at least one and a half times. This will make it possible to drill 1 beam through, and the second half. Be sure to follow a simple rule: the holes for the dowels should be 2-3 cm larger than the dowels themselves. Due to this, when the wood dries out, there will be a margin in height, and the timber will not hang.

A drill for drilling holes for dowels must be powerful enough. Experience shows that when using twist drill 25 mm with holes in a pine beam can easily be handled by a drill with a power of 800 watts. True, I mean a low-speed drill. The fact is that power is proportional to the number of revolutions and torque, which means that the more one, the less the other. When drilling large holes, torque is much more important than speed. Therefore, a low-speed drill is more suitable for such work. In this regard, when choosing a drill, you should pay attention to its reduction gear. It is advisable to use a tool that has several speeds. At the first speed, the torque will be maximum.

How to drill a hole? There are several technologies. You can do them when trying on a beam, after all plumb lines, levels, and dimensions have been checked. After that, the beam is removed. Batting, jute or other similar material is laid. It frees up space above the holes in advance. The beam is laid in place and dowels are inserted into it. They are allowed to be knocked out, but the impact force should be small. Otherwise, either the dowel will break, or it will not correspond to the diameter of the hole made. Too tightly clogged dowel will prevent the beam from shrinking when it dries out.

Some use a different sequence. The beam is laid immediately on the batting, leveled, and then drilled. This allows you to not take it off. once again off the wall. But this method also has its drawbacks. The quality of batting, linen and jute sold in stores varies. Often they contain long fibers, which, having fallen under the drill, begin to collect the batting and wind it around the drill. This entails a number of problems. The drill gets hot, loses its technological properties, so turning it out even with the use of reverse is not so easy. The drill for drilling the beam under the dowels is overloaded and may fail. Not to mention the fact that in this case you still have to remove the beam in order to restore the batting layer.

Technologies are different, often they have to be changed due to the characteristics of the materials used. But it is necessary to follow 2 rules in any case: the diameter of the dowel and the holes for it must match each other, and the drill must be slow and powerful.

Drilling a hole with a drill bit

At first glance, when there is a question about how to drill a hole in wood, most people have no doubts: you think that wood is not metal and is easy to drill. Yes, this is partly true if you want to make not a hole in the wood, but a banal hole. And in order to drill a hole in wood correctly and with high quality, you need to heed the advice of craftsmen for processing wooden structures, who are also called wood modelers.

Rules for drilling holes in wood

The rules are definitely simple, but following them will save you time, frustration, and Consumables in the form of wooden blanks and ready-made parts. So, what you need to pay attention to:

Before drilling, you need to accurately mark the place for the hole.

Choose the right cutting tool. This refers to drills for working with wood, countersinks, spade drills with a drilling depth limiter and annular cutters of the desired diameter.

When drilling, the tool (mostly a drill) must be held strictly vertically.

Use drills designed for specific material only.

Wooden parts must be firmly fixed in a vise.

The cutting tool should be pressed tightly, but with a uniform force.

Drilling holes in wood

Countersinking the screw head hole

Let's start drilling simple holes for a screw or. Usually these holes are small in diameter and it is not difficult to drill them. The only thing to do is to countersink the hole before drilling, that is, turn the surface of the wood under the screw head. To do this, fix the wood tightly and make a recess in it with a countersink a little more than the height of the screw head or self-tapping screw. After that, firmly pressing the drill of the desired diameter to the surface, drill the hole you need.

There are situations when you need to drill a "blind" hole under tenon connection. To do this, you need to use a drill with a limiter, which is put on the drill according to the size of the drilling depth.

It is more difficult to make holes in large diameter wood, as the use of conventional cylindrical drills chip the surface of the material, spoiling it. appearance. To successfully cope with this task, blade drills and annular cutters are used.

Drilling with flute drills

Fountain drill

For successful work when drilling with spade bits, secure the wood firmly in a vise and press the tip of the bit against the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) a hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the drill bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vise and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the bar from splitting when drilling.

Hole cutter drilling

Hole cutter for wood

An annular cutter is used for drilling holes in wood with a diameter of more than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a pilot drill of small diameter, structurally connected with the cutter in one piece. This ledge serves as a guide for the annular cutter.

Here are some tips from the pros that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:

a) for vertical drilling, you can set the square parallel to the drill;
b) if you often have to do carpentry work, get a special stand for a drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically, controls the depth of the holes;
c) be sure to use a vise when drilling to avoid splitting the wood;
d) so that the outlet does not have chips, place it under wooden detail waste bar and drill them together. Especially, this is applicable when making holes in a thin board;
e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill in the place of restriction with bright electrical tape or molar tape.

Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by a home master. And any master faced problems when drilling, especially if the work is thin. And fine work is most often found: a drill half a millimeter has gone - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom has stood obliquely, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tile has just been laid. Elegance and "oakness" are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill with a drill correctly.

Safety

For electrical safety available in wide sale the power tool belongs to class II: double working insulation, it is permissible to use it without additional grounding, i.e. such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-euro socket through an adapter. At the "iron bazaars" you can find a class I tool ("industrial"), with a ground terminal on a metal case. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its cartridge is most often used for a drill with a tapered shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary percussion drilling. Therefore, do not take such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the case is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with the euro plug is a class II tool. Class III - a power tool for an operating voltage of up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat cross-shaped contacts. For the home, it is suitable, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.

For protection against ingress of foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, the letter X is put instead of the corresponding number. So, the IP32 drill can be used outdoors in good weather; IPX2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzle, and IP68 can work during Samoom in the Sahara and under water.

Important: the first number 2 means that the device is finger-proof; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection IP22. But this in no way means that if a drill chuck with the same degree of protection is grabbed by hand during operation, then it will stop by itself. The IP standard does not guarantee foolproofing.

Cartridge

A conventional three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. With a rotary percussion drill, it quickly loosens up in it, and the cartridge itself loses accuracy and can completely fail: the threaded clip of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard brittle materials, a three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation only mode.

In a keyless chuck (it can be recognized by a corrugated plastic holder), the drill is clamped by a collet. Such a chuck holds the drill better during rotary impact drilling, but is less accurate for fine work of little use. Powerful drills are supplied with a two-sleeve collet chuck– Clamping and loosening are done by different rings.

The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, a special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of curly grooves, see Fig., absolutely securely fixes the working body according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; changing the drill is done with just two easy movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalwork and carpentry: the accuracy of centering the drill is insufficient. The adapter from a three-jaw chuck to SDS does not make sense: it will become loose from vibration, like a conventional drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the usual fit of the working body.

Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools up to 5 kg; SDS Max - for heavy two-handed.

Power and RPM

Buying a rotary impact drill for general works, no need to save on power. The power reserve is needed to create the necessary torque at low speeds. External characteristic collector electric motor with series excitation, used in drills, is close to ideal, but a low-power motor overheats at low speeds from high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front captive handle.

The maximum speed of the drill is also important. The diamond tool is literally "eaten up" before our eyes at a rotational speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools need at least 1500 rpm. If you meet a drill at 600-1200 rpm - this is a special tool for work general purpose unusable.

For precision work on metal, a simple, only with rotation, low power drill - 120-200 watts is best suited. It will be very useful to have a bed that turns the drill into a desktop drilling machine. And if you fork out for more Rotary table to the bed, then the dental bur can mill small parts.

Network or battery?

cordless drill home master needed in two cases:

If you work on the side - your more or less regular earnings.
If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

In any case, an expensive professional drill with lithium battery and its charge time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals working full-time day-to-day. And you can use a regular alkaline battery, charged in 4-8 hours. IN last resort, on a hole or two it can be “pumped up” in half an hour.

Section Summary

All of the above can be summarized in the following recommendations:

Regular construction works, including metal structures - you need a hammer drill and an impact drill of 350 W and above.
Periodic homework - rotary impact drill from 250 watts.
For precise drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably - with a bed.

Drill

Drills for drills are most commonly used of the following types:

Spiral - come in tool steel, coated with hard alloy, with a hard alloy insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
Fountain drills can drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large holes. They are made either in one piece or as a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts of different diameters. Such a set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
Crown (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with and without centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
A circular drill (central drill, ballerina) drills holes of large diameter in thin, strong, but brittle materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative rock. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be continuously changed. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy with diamond coating. They can drill glass, polished decorative stone, glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist drills and feather drills. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap kits can be made from regular carbon steel; their feathers can be edited with an ordinary needle file.

Twist drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a wedge tool with an angle equal to 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow or a blind hole is made, in which the drill is smoothly rotated during sharpening. The best sharpening is obtained using a small ("velvet") manual emery wheel, see fig. below.

Different materials require different angles sharpening drills A. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. Accurate angles and methods of sharpening drills different type for different materials can be found in the material processing reference manuals.

About Carbide

Hard alloys for drills are made on the basis of compounds of boron, tungsten or zirconium. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will quickly wear out. Such drills are marked "by stone". Drill them decorative materials it is impossible - the edges of the hole will be chipped. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They are correspondingly more expensive.

What and how to drill

For any drilling, the locations of the holes must be marked. For metal, this is done with a punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone, either with a special diamond punch, or with a half of a victorious roller from an old glass cutter, sandwiched in a homemade clip. Punching (more precisely, scratching with rotation) hole marks in fragile hard materials need manually. Now let's move on to drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, solid alloy

Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm, depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - with a maximum drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 - with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

Turnovers mean the maximum, at idle. In the process of drilling, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. The selection of feed for manual drilling on weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too low, the crumb will go, the hole will turn out with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs, the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.

With excessive feed, the so-called drain chips will go - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. In order for the feeding skill to be developed faster, even small holes need to be drilled with two hands, with a cap handle. The chips should be thin and brittle. For steels 42 and 44 (ordinary structural steels), chips with a bluish tint are acceptable.

Bronze and some grades of duralumin require special attention: they do not give drain chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to follow bronze by tint: its appearance is undesirable. Dural, on the other hand, must be cooled with liquid engine oil: if it boils, you need to press lighter.

You can set the idle speed by clicking the knob. If the drill is at 2800 rpm and the adjuster is 14 clicks edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then give the necessary correction: to know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill this material.

Note: when drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent the correct chips from forming.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet, so that drilling does not lead to sheet deflection, two methods can be recommended:

When drilling from the bed, give more speed, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pillow. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be fixed with nails driven into the pillow at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
When drilling on the fly, as soon as an increased resistance to the feed is felt (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill the hole on the other side, flushing the “pimples” with a punch inside.

But radical way get in thin sheet metal wide opening conventional drill- first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then expand it in one or three steps to the diameter of the required hole minus double the thickness of the metal, and drill it clean. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum allowable diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet, you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with very smooth corners.

Aluminum is a soft metal, very ductile and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it can melt on the cutting edge, blur the hole, swell its edges and bite the drill. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, it is necessary to give one and a half times less revolutions than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid machine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool a little, without leaning.

The drill for aluminum must be sharp, factory-ground or sharpened on a special machine. Drills resharpened by hand are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill ground to metal. Such drills are very fragile, so you need to feed the tool easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in the frame.

Wood, MDF and plastic

Commercial wood is drilled with a twist drill sharpened under a tree or a feather drill. Dense breeds (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a hole saw with a center drill. Drill revolutions - 400-600 for a twist drill and 200-500 for nibs and crowns.

drilling plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood is produced either with a special drill for wood (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone), or with solid blade drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is pre-drilled; it can be drilled with a conventional drill. Turnovers are the same as for commercial wood; feed - easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out with special drills for concrete with a super-hard solder or insert, in a percussion-rotary way at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. The best option is the SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip is chipped off. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly desirable to determine the location of the reinforcement with a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is carried out with a stone crown (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions for reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is tightly, without skew, applied to the wall, pressed, and the drill is turned on sharply, with quick pressure.

There is a special tool and technology for through wall drilling, but this is the subject of a special description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative, chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. Drill already laid tiles, so that cracking is also unacceptable. By smooth surface the drill can easily slip off, which again is unacceptable. Drilling - only rotation.

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

A hole with a diameter greater than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the circular drill.
A centering hole is drilled with a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
With a finishing drill for concrete, the hole is drilled completely.

Porcelain stoneware is drilled in the same way as ceramic tile. Drill speed - maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; feed is light, minimal. It is desirable to provide continuous cooling working area water. It is impossible to cool the tile with oil - when heated, it can spoil the decorative surface.

Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and firm hands: misalignment is not allowed, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a drill with two hands, throwing the front handle on the drill. Turnovers - higher, but not more than 900, because. at large, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and cut off its edges.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

Glass, granite and other brecciated (granular) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill. This is a job for an ace and a drilling virtuoso. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, they are tried on, having aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, they are turned on immediately “to the fullest” and slowly, smoothly the drill is inserted into the material. Pressing and tilting are not allowed.

If the piece to be processed can be laid on a table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed in the ancient Egyptian way: copper tube with quartz (not sea shell) sand:

A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made around the drilling site from plasticine or putty.
Fine quartz sand is poured into the formed hole and moistened to a liquid slurry.
A flat thin-walled copper tube is loaded into the drill chuck.
The drill is set to the MINIMUM speed.
They drill with a series of short light pecks at the weakest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the points of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw at the material.

Note: the exact diameter will not work, but you will get a dull spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vise, then it is better to drill with an accurate drill from the bed. If you have to drill on weight, then after punching, the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill jumper. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.

Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and the drill is turned on, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then a centering hole with a diameter of 2-4 mm is drilled first. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling on weight, the drill, splashing, can damage the wall or furniture.

square holes

Can you drill square holes? Yes, you can, if you use a drill in the form of the so-called Renault triangle - the simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a barbell and a clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the imperceptible area of the hole will be only 2%.

However, a drill can drill square holes only in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and there are huge lateral forces on the tool. Square holes in metal are drilled on special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled like this at all: lateral forces will blow the part into pieces.

Outcome

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling an even, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, who is knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.