I tend to use tiles most of the time large sizes- 300 x 900 mm. Each manufacturer has its own format, but I conditionally rounded it. So, for example, the toilet is best placed in the center of the tile, and the button wall hung toilet to correctly trim, put on a horizontal seam.
The sinks also have many modifications. standard height- about 85 cm. The sink, namely its center, if it is small, should also be placed either in the center of the tile or along the seam.
The tile size of 300 x 900 mm gives a very specific placement of switches and sockets: 1,050 mm from the level of the finished floor, in the center of the tile. If the outlet is at the bottom, near the floor, then 150 mm. It is convenient to make all bindings multiples of these dimensions. The electric heated towel rail is then also tied to this height, since they usually have a lower connection.
By the way, do not take a model with a cord that plugs into an outlet. I use hidden connection boxes and connect them directly. Do not forget that the connection is both right and left.
I also recommend not to do the ceiling until you lay out the tiles. I prefer not to cut, I lay out the walls in an exact and complete amount, say 8 tiles of 300 rather than 8.5. And then I do suspended ceiling from drywall.
Do not forget that if, when laying tiles, you make a seam through a cross, then an extra centimeter of height will come up at the top. Sometimes this is critical. In general, you need to lay the floor first, then the walls. The bathroom, although a technological space, should not forget about its aesthetics. A small tile makes it easier, a larger tile makes it richer.
Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet.
To start repairs in the apartment, according to most finishers, you should definitely start from the bathroom. I will explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the repair, requiring not only dismantling old tiles, plumbing, doors, and sometimes completely the walls of the bathroom.
We remove the old
So the first thing we do is we take out the old plumbing: a bathtub, a sink, a toilet bowl ... In short, everything that costs, weighs, lies.
Next stage: we cut off with the help of a grinder all the old pipes to the tap located on the riser.
Using a perforator, we knock down the old tile.
It is important if the plaster under the tile moves away from the wall, bunit ... it must also be beaten off.
We dismantle old door along with the box.
We change the risers. Now we turn our attention to plumbing and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the repair and it is necessary to change them. After the renovation it will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but you can do the internal plumbing yourself.
Checking the hood. Let's move on to the extraction. If we do not want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its work by the tongue of the flame: the better the hood works, the more intense the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood does not work correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.
Preparing walls and floors
We prime the walls. At the next stage, I suggest a good clean up: take a broom and sweep out all the debris and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take a deep penetration primer and prime the walls.
Installing beacons. After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Lighthouses must be installed strictly according to the level, observing the plane of the wall and maintaining 90-degree angles.
Plastering the walls. Beacons installed? Let's get to the plaster. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a mixer nozzle for a drill. Bathrooms are plastered, as a rule, with dry gypsum mixtures, since there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. We take a bucket of 12 liters and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, we throw a solution between the beacons of one wall 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it to the beacons and pull it up - it turns out Smooth surface. We remove the excess from the rule. And so on all the walls - from the floor to the ceiling. There are not large pits left, it does not matter - then we level it with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, then you have coped with the task.
Leveling the floors. The next step is the floors. We level them with the help of "self-leveling floors". We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, even a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor with a spiked roller. After drying, the walls and floors, just in case, we check by level, we eliminate unevenness.
We make a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? How? and at what height? there will be a bath, a sink, a mirror, a washing machine (if any), a towel dryer, a toilet bowl, a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call it a bathroom plan. In order for the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to the size (I mean that your bathtub is not half a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then you need to buy a bathtub as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. - you need to buy a bath for 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. let's go through. This seems to have been sorted out.
Video - turnkey bath repair
We make (draw) a detailed marking of the water supply and sewerage. If everything is purchased, then we continue. We collect a bath in a free room. We put it on its legs and level it. As a rule, for most bathtubs, the height of the legs is adjustable - we adjust the height for ourselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the wall in the bathroom. All the same - we do the same with the sink and washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how we will have water supply and sewerage. The bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bath - this should also be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes leading to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the plumbing for the sink, based on the structural features of the bedside table, and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. We mark only one pipe under the washing machine - cold. Sewer pipes sketch at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a small slope can be made under the bath and sink, then under the washing machine the output should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.
Making (drawing) a detailed layout of electrical wiring. The next thing we do is determine the electrical wiring. How many sockets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric razor - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to bring a wire under it (decide at what height). There will be a fan - we bring it out under it.
We make strobes. When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a perforator and gouge according to the plan. Next, we clean up and primer the strobes.
We install plumbing and sewerage. At the next stage, we mount the water supply (comb) and sewerage. Don't forget to install water meters and filters as well. Since our water supply is retracted into the walls - use better pipes from polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.
We mount a heated towel rail. At the next stage, we invite craftsmen or install a heated towel rail ourselves. Pipes are also mounted in the wall.
We mount the box. So we still have not closed risers, and we fix it. Assembling a box from metal profile and sew it up with drywall. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it Green colour. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, you will need it to have access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.
Priming the walls and floor. As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look at everything in detail for the presence of irregularities. If there are any, we fix it with a spatula and sandpaper.
Laying out the floor. Now lay out the floor tiles. For this we need - a drill, a mixer, a bucket, an ordinary spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm.).
We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathtub and sink. So in sight we will have only a whole tile. Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.
We lay out 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor. Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use a small tile, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be enough.
We wipe the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).
Installing a bath. It's bath time. We bring the bath, set it strictly according to the level and length and width. Let's break down the bath.
Laying wall tiles. Laying out wall tiles. We start right from the bath, from the most prominent corner, and drive in a circle. From the sides of the bath, you need to drill the slats so that all the tiles go on the level. Finish the top, remove the slats and report the bottom. Let the tile dry and remove the crosses.
We clean the seams.
We overwrite the seams.
We mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, suspended from plastic panels, tension. They are all good in their own way, you choose.
We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, bath screen.
It remains to hang a mirror, put sockets and the bath is ready.
This order of work will prevent you from making the most common mistakes, where the quality of the work done suffers, and sometimes leads to redoing.
Happy repair!
To do quality repair in the bathroom, it is not necessary to have large finances. After all, if you want, you can save a lot of money.
For example, you can refuse the services of a designer and come up with a style in which the repair will be done.
You can also save money on the construction team and do everything yourself.
But in order for the process to be established and the result to be achieved, it is necessary to draw up a detailed action plan in advance.
So, you will need:
- Come up with a design;
- stock up necessary materials and tools;
- Make a budget;
- Calculate the exact dimensions of the bathroom and plumbing dimensions;
When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Owners of a small area should take into account that a small space is less functional.
Light colors in the interior and large mirrors on the walls will visually enlarge the room.
You can refuse to install a bathtub and give preference to a shower cabin. Thus, there will be more space in the room.
For hygiene products instead of bulky ones floor cabinets you can hang compact hanging cabinets.
After you have decided on the choice of design, you need to draw up a plan of action. After all, in order for the process to go on continuously, all actions must be performed sequentially.
Negligent attitude to previous work can significantly affect the final result.
Step 1: Calculate the amount of building materials
This is a very important step in the renovation. An unpleasant moment may be that if the calculation is not correct, there may not be enough tiles, panels or other building materials.
Indeed, in the process of cutting and laying, part of the material may be damaged. To avoid such an incident, you should initially purchase building materials with a margin.
Step 2: Remove the old surface
To remove tiles from the walls and tiles from the floor, you need to stock up on a hammer and chisel. However, it will be easier to cope with the work with a puncher or drill. There are two dismantling options: sparing and emergency.
The first is done with a hammer and chisel. First you need to soak the grout, and then carefully separate each tile from the wall or floor.
The second option is much faster, but more "dusty" and "noisy". To do this, you just need to demolish the coating in layers with a perforator.
Step 3: Repair the floor
First of all, install the screed device. If installation is not provided additional system“warm floor”, then the height of the screed will be 1-1.5 cm. The height will be 3-4 cm if the floors are further insulated.
There are several types of "warm floor" system: water, film and electric. Any of the systems retains the microclimate in the bathroom well, at the same time it has a low cost and is easy to install.
Step 4: Wall decoration
To date, the market presents materials for the bathroom for "any wallet". First of all, it all depends on the finances that you have. Most often, tiles are laid on the walls.
But you can choose more a budget option, For example plastic panels or special moisture resistant plaster. At this stage of repair, everything depends on your imagination and finances.
Step 5: Ceiling
When repairing the ceiling, it is worth starting from the materials that were used on the walls. So, for example, with tiles and plastic, an elastic vinyl film looks very nice.
If you plan to make a ceiling with various transitions, then use a special moisture-resistant drywall. However, there is a more budget option: plastic panels.
After all the finishing work is done, you can install the bath, furniture and plumbing. Do-it-yourself repair is not an easy task, but very informative. In addition, it can save money and make the design exactly the way you want!
DIY bathroom renovation photo
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
The correct sequence of work is important for any repair, regardless of its complexity. Repairing a bathroom and a toilet with your own hands requires especially careful adherence to the planned order, since if the stages of work are not completed on time, you can ruin what has already been done. It is impossible, for example, to produce fine finish walls and floors, and only then think about replacing wiring and pipes.
The specificity of the repair of the bathroom, firstly, in small size premises, and secondly, in a large concentration of various devices and communications. Repairs in the bathroom and toilet are made less frequently than in living quarters, but usually more thoroughly. Experts recommend starting overhaul from the bathroom, because often this is the dirtiest part of all work. That is why the most milestone, which in no case should be neglected, is the preparation of a detailed repair plan.
Making a bathroom renovation plan
The first thing to do at the planning stage:
- Decide on the design and style of the future bathroom and toilet, choose color scheme. Traditionally, the bathtub is finished in pastel colors, two shades will look the most successful, for example, green and olive, beige and peach, blue and blue.
- Decide what types of materials will be used in the decoration. Most often used to decorate the bathroom tile, plastic panels, porcelain tiles, mosaics.
- Inspect plumbing and, if necessary, decide on replacement options. When buying new plumbing fixtures, be sure to make sure they fit.
- Measure the parameters of the room (height, width, length) and calculate the area. Consider the location of plumbing fixtures and other necessary details and draw a detailed plan. It is necessary to decide how and where the bath or shower, sink, toilet, mirror, heated towel rail, washing machine will be located.
Tip: when planning, you need to take into account that after plastering the walls, the dimensions may change slightly. This should be taken into account when buying everything you need, and if you are not sure about the size, postpone this item until the moment when rough finish will be ready.
The scale of do-it-yourself repairs in the bathroom depends on various factors: the degree of wear of pipes and plumbing, the obsolescence of finishes, the desire to update the design of the room. Consider the sequence of actions during a major overhaul, which involves the replacement of electrical communications and plumbing, plumbing fixtures and redevelopment of the premises.
Important! Before you redevelop the bathroom, for example, demolish the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, you need to get permission from the BTI.
An example work plan would be as follows:
- removal of plumbing and all interfering objects;
- dismantling of old coverings, doors;
- demolition of partitions (if necessary);
- dismantling of plumbing and electrical wiring;
- floor leveling;
- replacement of risers and pipes of water supply and sewerage;
- installation of electrical wiring;
- finishing floors, walls and ceilings;
- installation of plumbing fixtures;
- installation of doors and electrical equipment.
HELPFUL INFORMATION: Design of a bathroom and toilet in an apartment 23 photos
Now let's look at each stage of the repair in more detail.
We dismantle and remove all unnecessary
At the dismantling stage, the following work will have to be done:
- Remove the door along with the jamb. It is advisable to complete this item in the first place, since through a free doorway it will be easier to take out the garbage and bring in materials and tools. If the door is not planned to be changed, it is still better to remove the door from the hinges and remove it so that it does not interfere, and also to avoid damaging it.
- Dismantle and remove old plumbing. Even if you are not going to change the sink or toilet, it is better to remove and take them out during the repair. If this is not possible, you need to reliably protect them from chips and cracks. Foam rubber, rags or polystyrene can be laid on fragile objects and covered with a film, securing it with tape.
- Demolish barriers. This is necessary if you are expanding the bathroom or making a combined bathroom.
- Remove old coatings: ceramic tiles, paint, loose plaster from walls and floors. The tile is easily beaten off with a perforator.
Leveling the floor and walls
The floor in the bathroom should be smooth and even. You can make it this way in a variety of ways.
- "Sealed floor" - a self-leveling screed based on gypsum or cement. Sold as a dry mix, suitable for do-it-yourself styling. The diluted solution is simply poured onto the floor and rolled with a spiked roller.
- The use of a gypsum-based plaster mixture and, additionally, a water-repellent mixture, especially in the bathroom. Waterproofing material must cover not only the floor, but also part of the walls located near the bath or shower.
- If necessary, after the waterproofing device is done concrete screed. If it already exists, finishing facing you need to apply a waterproofing mastic on it and use waterproof glue for the tiles.
Walls can be leveled with plaster or sheets of moisture-resistant drywall. The latter material has a number of advantages over plastered walls.
- Firstly, drywall is great as a base for tiles.
- Secondly, when finishing the GKL walls, the work of laying electrical wiring is greatly simplified, since the wires can be placed in the frame of the wall structure.
HELPFUL INFORMATION: Sizes of washbasins and sinks in the bathroom
Water supply and sewerage
Old pipes must be removed to the riser itself. The water and sewer risers should also be replaced at this stage, as this will be difficult to do later. This work requires a certain qualification, so it is better to invite a master to carry it out.
It is quite possible to do the internal wiring of pipes with your own hands.
Work is carried out in the following sequence:
- the risers are given the necessary configuration;
- laid to water intake points hidden wiring pipes;
- a heated towel rail is installed in the bathroom;
- filters are installed;
- emergency water shutoff valves are installed;
- if necessary, a water heating system is integrated.
- pipe with hot water must be located above the cold pipe.
- At in large numbers water intake points will be more convenient collector system connection, which involves holding a separate pipe to each point.
- Ways of passage of sewer and water pipes posted right on the walls.
- It is customary to install a bathroom faucet 10 cm above the side of the bath, the optimal distance between the pipes that go to the faucet is 15 cm.
- It is necessary to mark the place where the pipe passes with cold water For washing machine, the outlet of the pipe should be at a distance of 50 cm from the floor.
- Sewer pipes are located at an angle for draining.
- Risers can be closed with a metal profile box and moisture-resistant drywall, which is then plastered.
- Do not forget about the technical hatch on the box for access to the meters and the tap.
Wiring
In order not to damage the final finish, electrical wiring is preliminarily installed. If you hide the wiring in metal pipes, then in the future, to replace it, you will not need to open the walls, you can simply pull out the wires.
Due to conditions high humidity wiring must be installed strictly according to the rules:
- sockets and appliances must be grounded;
- switches, lamps, sockets and cables must be protected from moisture and high temperatures;
- You can connect sockets and the lighting system only after the repair is completed.
HELPFUL INFORMATION: How to level the walls in the bathroom under the tiles: how to level the wall under the tiles
Determining the location of future outlets, marking electrical wiring, as well as pipes, can be done directly on the walls. After that, strobes are made along the marked lines with the help of a perforator, into which the cable will be laid.
Finishing with facing materials
After completing the draft work, you can proceed to finishing floors, walls, and then the ceiling. Finishing work For convenience, it is also better to carry out in a certain sequence:
- First you need to prime the walls and floor and make sure that all surfaces are level and that no wires or pipes are visible anywhere.
- Then the floor tiles are laid out. It is necessary to ensure that during the laying process there are no voids between the tiles. Seams must be cleaned and rubbed.
Tip: if you are going to install a bathtub with a closing screen, you can not lay tiles on the floor that will be hidden under it to save material.
- After the floor, the walls are lined with the selected material.
- At the end, the ceiling is put in order.
There are many options for finishing the ceiling:
- coating with water-based paint;
- installation of a stretch or false ceiling;
- installation of plastic panels.
What do you think, what will the tile laid on the floor turn into if you start ditching immediately after it, and then? Quite right - at least the floor will have to be cleaned for a long and tedious time, and as a maximum, some tiles will need to be replaced. It is for this reason that when starting a bathroom renovation, it is extremely important to know in what sequence all work is done. In this article, together with the site site, we will analyze this sequence, answering the questions: where to start repairing the bathroom and how to finish it correctly?
The sequence of work in the repair in the bathroom
How to start a bathroom renovation: why plan it
Why planning is practically the most important stage of work, which provides for the sequence of repairs in the bathroom? Everything is very simple, when you know and visualize the end result, it is much easier to decide on the necessary building materials, and the question of the sequence of the repair, and many others. important nuances. At this stage, a person visually or on the drawings places all the plumbing and other appliances necessary for the comfortable operation of the bathroom, which allow you to visualize the layout of communications.
How to start a bathroom renovation
As a rule, this stage is the longest, even if you turn to professional designers for help - believe me, a lot of all kinds of options will appear in both their and your heads, which will either be discarded as not suiting you, then again come back. And so on until separate fragments all options will not combine into a single picture that meets the requirements of all members of your family. Only then can the next step be taken.
How to plan a bathroom renovation
Purchase of materials: how to save wisely
Everyone is familiar with the expression "greedy pays twice." It best reflects a person's approach to purchasing the cheapest building material. Remember one simple truth - high-quality repairs in the bathroom, which will delight your eyes for at least 10 years, or even more, simply cannot be cheap. I'll say it a little differently, for example, using a cheap grout mixture for joints between tiles - this is a sure step towards distribution, the result of which may be repeated repairs after 2-3 years.
The bathroom is a special room in which the use of cheap building materials affects its lifespan. You can tile with low-quality adhesive in the kitchen or hallway, but not in the bathroom!
There are other options for answering the question of how to save money on bathroom renovations - for example, use the cumulative discount system, which is available in almost all construction stores or take on the performance of feasible work (dismantling and similar work that does not require special qualifications). In general, there are ways to save on cost, and not on the quality of repairs, and you need to use them.
Can you save money on bathroom renovations?
How to properly dismantle the bathroom
Despite the fact that dismantling does not require special qualifications, there are still certain rules. The most important of them sounds something like this - when dismantling something, you need not break it, but carefully disassemble it. And the point here is not at all to save for the purpose of later use a used construction material. It's all about safety. Yes, yes, you heard right - if you pick up a sledgehammer and start mindlessly destroying everything around, then more likely you will break the wrong thing or injure yourself.
Dismantling, or rather disassembly, no matter how it looks from the outside, is carried out strictly in the reverse order of installation. In general, sometimes, in order to protect yourself from various troubles, you have to think about how and what is more correct to cut off or beat off.
The sequence of repairs in the bathroom: photo dismantling
Now for the bathroom itself. The overhaul of the floor, walls and ceiling, associated with the replacement of all existing surfaces, is carried out right down to the base, just like in the Marseillaise of the same name (we old world destroy to the ground, and then ...) In general, the floor and ceiling will have to be cleaned up to the floor slabs, and the walls to brick or concrete. There is no other way to make high-quality, and most importantly, durable repairs.
If you can still somehow cheat on the floor and ceiling, then it’s better to clean the walls scrupulously and not rely on any holes drilled with a perforator or notches made with an ax. Sooner or later a layer between new finish and the base of the wall (old plaster, unpeeled paint, etc.) will make itself felt, and, believe me, this will not be very pleasant news.
Dismantling work in the bathroom photo
Installation of hidden communications: a delicate matter with big consequences with the wrong approach
As a rule, hidden communications in the bathroom also mean plumbing - they are mounted in pre-prepared strobes. In addition, if we talk about a complete overhaul of the bathroom, then it is necessary to replace not only the internal electrical and plumbing wiring, but also, and as for electricity, then make a new input to the bathroom.
It should be understood that the old electrical wiring in most cases does not correspond to the loads from modern electrical appliances used in the bathroom. If earlier everything was managed exclusively by one, the power of which did not exceed 200W, now it is both, and, the total energy consumption of which can exceed 4.5 kW. This must be taken into account.
Repair of walls in the bathroom photo
In addition, the abundance of powerful consumers dictates some safety rules regarding not only electricity, but also water supply. In a modern bathroom, it is considered normal to have high-quality, RCD and circuit breakers, which are equipped with all powerful consumers.
As for, in order to avoid a scandal with neighbors, the so-called risers are installed on the risers - special sensors monitor the humidity of the floor and, in the event of water leaks, send a signal to electronic valves that block the flow of water from the riser.
What nuances you need to take into account before starting the repair of the apartment, including the bathroom, see the video.
Floor waterproofing: why is it necessary
On this occasion, I will only say one thing - a well-made one is able to hold and not let through to the neighbors from below up to 100 liters of water. Of course, it will not save you from a global flood associated with a rush of risers, but it will provide you with time to stop the water supply. In addition, there will be no need to worry about small leaks associated with human carelessness.
What is floor waterproofing? In fact, this is a trough, the bottom of which is the floor, and the sides are the bottom of the walls. To seal these surfaces, bituminous mastic and rolled rubberized insulation.
Bathroom floor repair photo
Leveling surfaces: the key to an excellent appearance of the room
If someone you know suggests that you don’t need to level the surface before tiling it (they say, this can be done during the laying of tiles), drive him to the neck. Some masters do just that, laying the tiles immediately on a large layer of glue or mortar. This should not be done for several reasons: firstly, large layers of glue or mortar float, from which the reliability of their setting with walls or floors decreases and, secondly, the budget for the purchase of the glue itself increases.
Why align the walls during a bathroom renovation
It is much cheaper to repair the walls in the bathroom with plaster or than to buy a ton of tile adhesive and line the walls with it. In addition, this approach to business does not ensure the gluing of tiles over its entire plane.
The final stages of work in the repair in the bathroom
I won’t paint much here - we’ll just present the remaining renovation work in the bathroom in the form of a list with explanations.
- Surface cladding. First, the walls are tiled, and then the floor - the bottom row of wall tiles, called trimming, is laid after finishing the floor. It is important that at the end of laying the tiles stand for at least 2-3 days - only after this time can the seams be grouted and work can continue.
- Repair . Any type of ceiling is installed after final finishing premises.
- mounted, like the ceiling, upon completion of the remaining finishing work.
- Improvement of the premises, which means the installation of plumbing fixtures, lamps, shelves, mirrors and other accessories.
This is how the answer to the question looks like, where to start repairing the bathroom and how to finish it? As you can see, there will be many problems, and all of them will have to be solved, if not immediately, then along the way. I wish you good luck and achieve harmony in the interior of the bathroom!
