Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment It’s quite expensive, so we’ll make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.
What is a cyclone and why is it needed?
In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to have the opportunity to clean and liquid waste.
The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind debris different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.
These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. The homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various kinds machine tools In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.
Difference between wet and dry cyclone
To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Exhaust duct Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make it rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.
As already stated, cyclone filter Potentially capable of removing liquid waste. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.
Most washing vacuum cleaners introduce air into the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with minimum quantity It is not recommended to use such a scheme for alterations.
Made from scrap materials
The simplest and affordable option For the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.
The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the required diameter is to use homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.
The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic can be scratched perfectly with this homemade instrument, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.
The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
- WITH reverse side The rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.
The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the socket is located on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with wet cleaning in mind, you should extend the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.
The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall, or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.
How to adapt the device for machines and tools
To be able to draw in waste when using hand-held and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. IN as a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.
With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:
- If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
- To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
- When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, use the convection flow created by the moving parts of the tool to greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
- Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust suction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.
Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use
Usually a vacuum cleaner for homemade cyclone They don’t choose on their own, but use what’s available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.
The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or plumber's tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.
The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop
To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.
Large debris in the workshop can always be swept away and taken to a landfill in bags. But what to do with dust, metal or wood shavings, and numerous other microscopic industrial wastes? The purchase can take a toll on your wallet. But a regular vacuum cleaner will not cope with such a job. But if you make your own cyclone for a vacuum cleaner or even your own construction vacuum cleaner, you can save yourself from a number of problems!
Why do you need a cyclone filter?
Construction, metal or wood dust appears to be completely harmless. But this is only at first glance. Working in a room where a lot of dust has accumulated can harm the respiratory system and cause serious illness. And the instruments will deteriorate from the endless stream of garbage. There may be several reasons:
- Dust gets into the tool and onto the lubricant inside it. As a result, it overheats and fails.
- If the device has moving parts, then dust may well hinder their operation and also lead to breakdowns in the future.
- Dust can clog special ventilation holes, which are designed to cool the instrument. The result is overheating and breakdown again.
The cyclone filter will ensure the collection of any waste in production without harm to the vacuum cleaner.
Principle of operation
Using an aerodynamic air flow, the filter will bind dust particles together. In turn, centrifugal force begins to act, pressing them against the walls of the container. And then gravity causes the debris to settle to the bottom.
There are many diagrams showing the operation of cyclone filters. One of them can be seen below.
Cyclone filter device
You can make this or a similar filter yourself. There are a huge variety of design options, but they all have one thing in common – the principle of operation. Any design will consist of:
- A regular vacuum cleaner (preferably a powerful one);
- Cyclone filter;
- Containers that collect garbage.
Throughout the entire structure. In normal condition, it is designed for cleaning the house, sucking up small debris and dust. In this case, a cyclone filter appears, which means the length of the air duct will be increased almost three times, and accordingly the load on the device will be greater. The design turns out to be quite massive, unlike a conventional vacuum cleaner, so this trick is necessary to ensure that the hose is long enough for comfortable cleaning.
DIY construction vacuum cleaner: what you need
As mentioned above, you can use a regular household vacuum cleaner. But many masters are not attracted to this option, so the best solution becomes a homemade unit.
In order to make such a device, even if it has survived from the distant Soviet past. This is the advantage that homemade vacuum cleaners can be made from unnecessary old units.
So, from the vacuum cleaner we extract the following elements:
- Motor;
- Cord connecting the device to the network;
- Power control device;
- Suction corrugation.
For the body, prepare:
- Plastic pipe with a diameter of 5 cm;
- Container with lid;
- A sheet of plywood about 0.5 cm thick;
- 14 nuts and bolts M6 each;
- Galvanized sheet metal strip;
- Car filter (from a minibus);
- Switch – 220 V;
- Sealant;
- Sandpaper;
- Glue gun sticks;
- Corrugated hose (can be from a washing machine);
- Threaded rod with nuts and washers;
- Electrical corrugation PND32.
It’s worth preparing the tools right away:
- Drill;
- Glue gun;
- Sealant gun;
- Locksmith keys;
- Screwdrivers;
- Jigsaw;
- Wire cutters.
Manufacturing
At a distance of approximately 10 centimeters from the top of the container, we make a hole into which we connect the pipe. The hole should be an oval, even shape. The pipe is placed in it at a slightly downward angle, tightly adjacent to the wall. Glue gun it is necessary to fix the result obtained, as in image 2.
A pipe inserted into a pre-made hole in a barrel
We attach an adapter from the inside to connect the suction hose.
We cut out two circles approximately half the size of the lid, and drill holes for the bolts. The parts are attached on both sides. Afterwards, other circles are drilled, and their surface is cleared of burrs using sandpaper. We cover the perimeter of the product with sealant, after which they are installed and finally secured. The hole for the pin is made in the center. A little to the left there will be a larger hole for air intake.
Location of the stud and air vent hole
We will need an air filter without a mesh (it will become clogged with debris, which is extremely unprofitable) in which it is placed. It must be removed with pliers. One side of the cylinder should be closed with a plywood plug. The filter is secured to the stud with a nut.
By the way, the filter will help not only get rid of dust, but also prevent the inhalation of dangerous small particles, such as toner. If you use a regular vacuum cleaner in this case, the bags easily become clogged with toner dust. In this case, all particles will settle in the collection container.
To make it more convenient to attach, you can cut it together with the plastic parts. To secure it to the lid, you will need a clamp, which can be made from a strip of tin.
The switch and regulator are located nearby. After this, all parts are connected to each other with wires, and the wire and plug are connected.
Make sure that everything is connected correctly and there are no exposed wires, and only then check the operation of the device.
Location of the motor, switch and power regulator
The length of the suction hose is usually not enough, so it is extended using a corrugated pipe.
Standard vacuum cleaner attachments will help bring order to any workshop. They can also be used to connect to equipment for direct waste collection, using simple adapters.
So, your homemade cyclone-type construction vacuum cleaner is ready!
What to do if you can’t make a vacuum cleaner yourself?
Of course, not everyone wants to make a vacuum cleaner from scratch, and necessary details may not be. In this case, a regular household vacuum cleaner is perfect, preferably with high power. Next, you just need to make a cyclone filter for it, which will not require much expense. Most often it is made from a traffic cone or bucket. Let's consider both options.
A drawing of a homemade cyclone can be seen below.
Cyclone drawing
Traffic cone cyclone
Simple and in a fast way To build a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner directly with your own hands is to make it from a traffic cone.
What is needed for the job?
Once the production of the cyclone will be carried out with my own hands, need to prepare necessary tools And Consumables. So we prepare:
- Traffic cone;
- Plastic pipes (approximately 40 mm)
- Angle 45 degrees;
- Plywood;
- Pieces of laminated chipboard;
- Glue gun and sticks;
- A container with a lid, possibly for paint.
Let's start making
First, we take plywood to make a lid to cover the cone. We cut out a circle of the required diameter and cut two holes in it. One will be in the middle, the second parallel to the edge, as in Figure 6.
Circle made of plywood with holes for air inlet and outlet
A pipe inserted into one of the holes
A pipe must also be inserted into the second hole, but a 45-degree angle is placed on top of it. It is as the air moves through it that it will spin into a vortex. The angle is located inside the cone.
Angle position for proper air circulation in the cyclone
Afterwards the pipe is glued as in the case of the first one. The lid is ready. Next it is glued into the cone.
The tip of the cone must be cut off. Afterwards, it is inserted into the lid of the bucket in the center into a pre-prepared hole. The attachment point is glued. WITH inside the lid must be reinforced with pieces of chipboard. Afterwards they are tightened together with self-tapping screws.
The result is a product like in Figure 9.
Ready product
Cyclone filter from a bucket
One more simple material To make a cyclone filter, you can use an ordinary bucket, you can even use one from under paint. The volume must be calculated based on the power of the vacuum cleaner - this is approximately 1 liter of capacity for every 80-100 W.
The bucket must have a hermetically sealed lid, and the shape of the container itself must be round!
To make it you will need:
- Bucket with a lid (can be made from construction mixtures);
- Compass;
- 2 elbows 90 and 45 degrees;
- Plastic pipe;
- Silicone;
- Rubber or O-rings;
- Stationery knife;
- Glue gun.
Manufacturing
We make holes in the lid. You can use a factory compass, or you can use a homemade one. Screw two self-tapping screws into the wooden strip at a distance of exactly 2.7 centimeters from each other.
The center of each hole is marked 4 cm from the edge. Next, circles for the pipes are cut out at the marked locations.
We insert the elbow tightly into the socket, having previously applied silicone to its side. On the inside of the product, a seal is pulled onto the socket. If necessary, crimp with a clamp. It will look like in Figure 10.
Insert the pipes into the bucket lid, turning the angle correctly
From the outside, the inlet pipe is almost flush with the lid. On the reverse side, the knee is directed by the rotating part to the center of the bucket. But for desired effect it is equipped with a 45-degree turn, which is directed obliquely downward as in Figure 11.
Back view
The second pipe, which will draw air, is located in the opposite direction. An elbow is inserted into it so that air is drawn in from the wall of the bucket. It is necessary in each case to use o-rings; they will securely secure the pipes and prevent them from rotating.
We conclude that you can make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands quickly and easily, using available tools. The output should be something like the one in the figure below.
Cyclone filter connected to a household vacuum cleaner
Difficulties that you may encounter during work
Create your own cyclone filter, or even homemade vacuum cleaner, as we have seen, is not difficult, if you have the necessary materials.
In some cases, it is recommended to take metal containers for collecting garbage, as they are considered more durable. If you have a vacuum cleaner with enormous power, the plastic bucket can “collapse,” so to speak. It is drawn inward due to the strong flow of intake air. This happens extremely rarely, but it is better to immediately provide for this option. It can be leveled, but the damage to the product will be obvious. So you always need to take into account the quality of the plastic and the power of the device. In the case of a traffic cone, this problem does not arise.
From the very beginning of working in the workshop I encountered the problem of removing dust after work. The only available way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop made the problem worse. Some solutions have been to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you; in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and also does not contribute to workplace hygiene. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all nooks and crannies can be reached with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust.
In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.
However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust greatly exceeding the calculated values will greatly affect the service life of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.
There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found it on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a regular household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems with household vacuum cleaners can be solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to the standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some people make cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, the third - from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy it already ready filter with fasteners.
The principle of operation is simple - the air flow swirls in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the influence of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.
One of the common problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called “carousel”. This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a flow rate of air created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the “carousel” will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage is pressed into the container most from the “carousel” and takes its place. And in the second model, plastic cyclones of this carousel practically do not exist. To eliminate air leaks, I coated the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.
I decided to get a larger dust collection container so that I would have to take out the trash less often. I bought a 127 liter barrel, apparently made in Samara - just the right size! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a string bag - on a different cart, so as not to strain herself.
Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collection unit permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the desired location. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one unit.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to make the body of the installation from metal. Frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.
When installed vertically, there is a risk of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this purpose, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.
The noticeable weight of the cart is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure was not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.
In order to achieve verticality of the rods, I had to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment it was possible to achieve precise installation corners
It is convenient to move the cart while holding the vertical bars, so I reinforced their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.
The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame using clamps.
At the top of the rods there is a platform for the vacuum cleaner. Next, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and the wooden planks will be secured using self-tapping screws.
Here, in fact, is the entire frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Safety glasses and a welding mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and are bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is completed. Besides, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.
I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in cold weather, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint has a hardener, don’t worry about it at all.
I found in the caches an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha back in the summer - . The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerite added a little regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began painting.
In the summer this paint dried in one hour. It’s hard to say how long it took to dry in the winter, but when I returned to the studio by the evening of the next day, the paint was dry. True, without the promised hammer effect. It's probably the degreaser that's to blame, not negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it’s not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.
The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is quite flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads may occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel needs to be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically they collect additional frame hardness for the filter. The designs are very varied, but the idea is something like this:
I approached this a little differently. I welded a holder for pipes of a suitable diameter onto one of the rods.
In this holder I clamp the hose, which bears all the twisting and jerking. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any loads. Now you can pull the unit directly behind you by the hose without fear of damaging anything.
I decided to secure the barrel with tightening straps. When I was choosing locks at a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tie-down belt with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and the bare frog-type lock lying next to it cost me 180 rubles. Russian production would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology lies.
Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, not the entire barrel was compressed, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself out with a click.
At the top of the installation there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner
I purchased a bagless, almost two-kilowatt monster as a household vacuum cleaner. I was already thinking that this would be useful for me at home.
While buying a vacuum cleaner from an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. People sell used items without a guarantee, with a worn-out part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some popular items, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of posting of advertisements, this trade sometimes lasts for years. And as soon as you start haggling and name an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I finally found it for myself great option for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 Watt, built-in cyclone filter (the second one in my system) and another fine filter.
To secure it, I couldn’t think of anything more elegant than pressing it with a tightening belt. In principle, it holds securely.
I had to get a little tricky with connecting the hoses. As a result, we have such a setup. And it works!
Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such things, people are choked with delight. I experienced something similar when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone wears street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!
I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it up only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!
We managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom into the barrel. When the device is operating, thanks to the transparency of the filter, you can observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was a small amount of it and these were particularly light and volatile fractions.
I'm very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm moving into a new era.
Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, determined only by the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be carried and pulled by the hose without fear of tearing out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.
After some time of using the installation, I still encountered the problem of a lack of rigidity of the barrel.
I purchased a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but it sucks like a beast - it sucks up stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and tears bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner collapsed a blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tightly wrapping the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, it's a shame. But it looks something like this:
On thematic forums they warn about this possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.
There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not yield any results.
2. Assemble the box yourself the right size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.
The box was assembled using self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed using double-sided foam tape.
The cart had to be altered a little - the rear clamp had to be modified to fit a square tank.
The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a garbage bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel didn't allow this.
The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows
The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out more.
It worked out well. Cute, functional, reliable. How I love.
A home vacuum cleaner is so commonplace in the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used only possible way separating dust from clean air– filter.
Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag made of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that retain the smallest particles of debris. However, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.
Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.
He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. I must say that this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal cyclone-type scorch and chip storage for quite a long time.
But no one thought of applying this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986, he registered a patent for the first cyclonic vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.
In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:
- Filter membrane. The most widespread and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
- Water filter. Air with debris passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air flow comes out. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to their high cost.
- Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the “cyclone” type. It is a compromise in cost and quality of cleaning compared to a membrane and water filter. Let's look at this model in more detail.
Operating principle of a cyclone
The illustration shows the processes occurring in the chamber of a cyclone-type filter.
Contaminated air enters the filter housing (2) through the pipe (1) cylindrical. The pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) twists into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.
Under the influence of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest particles of debris (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After final cleaning they exit into the receiving fan (7).
The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All dirt is simply poured out of the reservoir, and the vacuum cleaner is ready for use again.
Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive compared to membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a “cyclone” type filter with their own hands and connect it to the inlet of a regular vacuum cleaner.
About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English “HEPA” is translated as “High Efficiency Particulate Air” - a filter for particles contained in the air. 
Agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment like a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.
Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they also come in different types: battery-powered, washing, and pneumatic. As well as automobile, low-voltage industrial, backpack, gasoline, etc.
Operating principle of a cyclone vacuum cleaner
James Dyson is the first creator of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.
A little later in the 1990s, he submitted a request to manufacture cyclone devices and had already assembled his own center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the Dayson DC01, went on sale.
So, how does this cyclone-type miracle work?
It appears that the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in collecting dust.
The device has two chambers and is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that spins inside the dust collector moves upward, as if in a spiral. 
According to the law, large dust particles fall into the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. Here's how cyclone filter vacuum cleaners work.
Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features
Do not opt for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like this kind of cleaning and most likely, you will want to throw away such a device.
Don't waste your money, but take a more serious approach to buying a vacuum cleaner. You just have to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with choosing a particular vacuum cleaner.
You should choose a device that is 20-30% more powerful than a bagged vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 W. Almost all vacuum cleaner manufacturers produce models with this filter, which is good news.
Advantages of cyclone dust collectors
1. This has probably happened to everyone, when an item you accidentally needed ended up in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice objects that need to be pulled out of there as quickly as possible.
This is one of the most important advantages.
2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not reduce speed and power, even when the container is clogged. Cleaning is much more enjoyable, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.
This vacuum cleaner is capable of holding much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.
3. By buying a cyclone vacuum cleaner, you are not only making a good purchase, but also saving space for storing it, since its weight is quite light. You won't have to carry heavy weights. 
4. There is no need to constantly change paper bags for the vacuum cleaner.
5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.
6. It can be washed thoroughly with water and dried.
Disadvantages of cyclone dust collectors
1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you won’t have to clean the container with a brush every day, but still, this is one of the disadvantages. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, of course it’s unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.
2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a regular one.
3. Energy consumption. It is also much higher than that of a conventional vacuum cleaner. It's a small tornado.
It's up to you to decide whether to buy this little miracle or not. In fact, all its advantages outweigh its few shortcomings. A clean house is much nicer than a half-finished tidy, wouldn’t you agree?
Personal impressions
Compared to an old vacuum cleaner, the cyclonic dust collector looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little thing is capable of something serious. Now old vacuum cleaner Can only be used for wet cleaning.
When I use it for the first time, I take out the accessories, insert a small diameter pipe, turn on the device, and what’s really surprising is that the brush cleans the carpets much better than my previous assistant.
He cleans everything. Dirt, hair from our pets. Previously, you had to make a lot of effort to cope with such “now little things”.
I have laminated flooring in my hallway and it was just as easy to clean. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, tougher than the previous one for carpets, so I coped with this task so easily. You know, the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet. 
I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary attachments; it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.
Once I knew what this little tornado could do, it was time to clean out the container. Thank God, when I started emptying the dust collector, it fell in dense, large clumps.
Since the debris was compacted by the air flow. No clouds of dust were visible, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclonic vacuum cleaner. I rinsed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!
Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo
All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. This applies to all vacuum cleaners.
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners usually used on machines or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are quite expensive, since the operating principle of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that industrial devices are most often used during repairs and construction. Leave yours workplace needs to be clean.
DIY cyclone, made of transparent plastic video
Construction work is carried out after preparing it and cleaning the surface. As you understand, General cleaning impossible to do with a regular vacuum cleaner. In other words, this is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris such as sand, oil, dry mixtures, powdered abrasives and wood shavings are designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction work, then be sure to specify the types of pollution that it will encounter.
Are you planning to use a vacuum cleaner in a repair environment? Then consider the DIY cyclone vacuum cleaner option. There are many examples of how you can make this kind of vacuum cleaner.
DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner
1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner yourself, you will need a Ural PN-600 Vacuum Cleaner, a plastic bucket (even suitable for paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes need to be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets using a grinder and remove the pipe fastenings. Before doing this, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert it onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole in the middle with a drill. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. To seal it, cut out gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm.
6. Then you need to put everything together, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. You will need 20 self-tapping screws.
8. Cut a hole from the side of the bucket along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut for metal.
10. Don’t forget that you need to try on the inside too. Also leave strips on the inside for self-tapping screws.
11. Using a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and trim off the excess material with scissors. Attach the pipe to the outside of the bucket.
12. To seal everything you need to use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like “titanium” for polystyrene foam. Wrap a bandage around the pipe and soak it with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue is drying, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it, blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the process of sealing and connection with the pipe is improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. It is best to store the vacuum cleaner in a case.
