The problem of cracking of plastic products is very relevant in our time, when this material most of the little things needed in everyday life are made.
After all, in fact, it is stupid to throw away a completely new scoop or bucket. Just a waste of money and time. It is especially insulting to throw away your favorite, albeit inexpensive, vase. To cope with this problem and extend, even if for a short time, the service life of plastic products, it is necessary to quickly repair them. One way to quickly fix a leak in a plastic bucket or get a dustpan working properly is to use a caustic substance called trichlor. Of course, it is not sold in all hardware stores and you will have to go around a lot of outlets to buy the coveted bottle, but it's worth it.
Trichlor is pretty dangerous chemical agent, which is a clear and highly corrosive liquid. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it only in protective gloves.
A little substance must be poured onto natural cotton wool or the same rag and wiped over its problem area. In a matter of seconds, the plastic treated in this way will become soft and the crack can be smoothed out. If one treatment was not enough, the plastic is too strong or, on the contrary, very thin, then you can repeat the process, using a piece of additional plastic for insurance. After connection, you will receive a product without a crack, as if it never existed. At the same time, the quality of the patch is quite high. You can use the thing for its intended purpose. There will be no leaks.
But it must be remembered that all work should be carried out in a room with open windows or on outdoors. This is necessary so as not to get poisoned yourself, and not to harm others. More in a simple way to quickly eliminate the leakage of a plastic vessel is the use of paraffin. To work, you need a candle made of paraffin. It must be ignited and when it starts to melt, bring it to the problem area. Paraffin will firmly seal the crack. It is more secure and quite reliable.
Cracked pelvis can get a second wind
After such a quick repair, the product will last for quite a long time if you do not keep it near an open fire or in the sun. In addition, cold welding can be used. It securely glues the product. After processing, you must wait about half an hour. You need to work with protective gloves.
Manual welding extruder for joining plastic.
Since we are dealing with batteries and there is a lot of acidic electrolyte around us, we use plastic containers for storage. It is clear that these tanks periodically need repairs, so to speak. Plastic containers are not small in size, and in such ways it is quite laborious to restore their integrity. Therefore, we purchased a manual welding extruder for more professional work. It is clear that it costs a lot of money, but its productivity is higher and it welds plastic much more reliably. We really bought a German-made extruder, but now we also have ours Russian production, we want to recommend one of the models to you.
The second life of leaky barrels
Chapter: Likbez
Written by Anatoly Nikolaevich MOSKALEV, Yekaterinburg
A metal barrel is one of the most useful items on our site. But time takes its toll, and gradually they fall into disrepair. Should they be thrown away?
Our dacha experts confidently say: no!
Average barrel life is 20 years
In 1982, I bought 10 200 liter steel barrels (inside diameter 54 cm x height 88 cm) to store water for irrigation. They regularly served in the country for 20 years, since every two years I painted them with waterproof paint. But nothing, as they say, lasts forever. Gradually, small holes began to appear in the bottom and on the side cylindrical surface, they were sealed with cold welding and tar. But from year to year the holes increased in size, their number grew. By 2010, all barrels were completely unusable, no repair helped them anymore - not barrels, but a sieve! Suitable only for collecting and burning garbage, making compost or throwing it in a landfill.
Using the package to extend the life of the barrel
The idea was suggested to me by the summer resident Yuri Stepanov: “Holes are not at all a reason not to keep water in barrels.” I decided to put it into practice and got a wonderful result. I had to bring the idea to mind myself.
In the store I bought plastic bags for garbage - 60 microns, with a volume of 240 liters. It is very important that the volume of the package is much larger than the volume of the barrel, and its perimeter is equal to the perimeter of its outer cylindrical surface (if more, this is welcome; if less, then no more than 2-3 cm - polyethylene is elastic and stretches a little). I think you guessed it: the water will be stored in a bag, and the barrel should only serve as a supporting frame for it.
At first I wanted to finish writing on this, but, on reflection, I decided: no, you need to convey some nuances, then you will save both time and nervous energy. The technology is simple.
To avoid punctures
Cleansing inner surface barrels from sharp peeling paint and rust that can pierce plastic bag.
We do this with metal brush, and even better - a metal frame with which weeds are shaved off (only act with a frame planted on the handle). And don't overdo it! Carefully check the inner surface of the barrel with your palm: if there are no sharp spots, just clean it. Any non-sharp protrusions do not matter. There is no need to paint the inside of the barrel - do not waste money, effort and time.
If you can’t smooth out the sharp protrusions in any way, or you want to insure yourself from future troubles, there is such a move: we cut out a circle from thick polyethylene (cardboard, plastic, etc.), the diameter of which is equal to the inner diameter of the barrel or even slightly larger than it. Put the circle on the bottom of the barrel. We cut out a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the distance from the bottom of the barrel to its upper edge, and the length is slightly greater than its perimeter. We turn the rectangle into a cylinder, overlap the edges and fasten them along with threads.
Subject: Crack in plastic water tank for outdoor shower. How to seal the tank?
We put the cylinder in the barrel. The circle and the cylinder will reliably protect packages from punctures!
One is good, two is better
For strength, it is better to use two packages. We put one into the other so that the corners at the bottom coincide. Putting packages on flat surface(table, floor) and expel air from them, stroking with palms from the bottom to the top edge. Of course, some air will still remain, but it does not matter. We align the upper edges and with narrow adhesive tape (8-15 mm) we fasten the packages over the edge along the perimeter along their upper edge every 10-15 cm. The length of the fastening adhesive tape is enough 4 cm. Now the linked edges of the packages will not move relative to each other, and we will get a double package. Do not seal the edges of the bags along the entire length - this is very important, and you will appreciate this later, since the air remaining between the bags will be able to freely escape when water is poured into the inner bag.
We lower the double package into the barrel. We bend its upper edge (5-15 cm) onto the outer surface of the barrel along its entire perimeter.
If the length of the bag allows, it is best to fold the edges as much as possible, but make sure that the bag in the barrel does not hang in the air, as water will simply tear it apart.
So that the package, when we start pouring water into it, does not slip to the bottom of the barrel, it is necessary to attach the folded part of the package to the bottom of the barrel with a wide adhesive tape (60-80 mm). outer surface barrels. This is a very responsible operation, it is better to do it together. For example, a husband puts a barrel at an oblique angle, round or box and slowly turns it around its axis, while the wife at this time, slowly, glues the bag with tape: half the width of the tape to the bag, the other to the barrel. The operation requires accuracy, the adhesive tape should lie evenly and tightly, without swelling and distortions. Of course, you can perform this procedure alone, but it is difficult. In the photo next to me is a barrel, which I wrapped with adhesive tape absolutely alone (before that, the operation was carried out together with my wife, as I described above). Look how great I did! And you, dear readers, I am sure, are incomparably more talented than me, you will do even better!
Air vent hooks
And here is one more serious nuance! A lot of air remains between the double bag and the barrel body. You are tempted to remove it. And if you don’t remove it, the poured water, gradually pressing the bag against the barrel, will squeeze the air up: the bag will swell, and since there is no way out for the air, it can tear as a result, or the bent edge of the bag together with adhesive tape will pull the water into the barrel, which we had at first. The package falls to the bottom, water flows out through the holes. goodbye idea...
Having failed on the first barrel, I found the next way out. From aluminum wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm we cut pieces 15-20 cm long and make hooks. To do this, we press a piece of wire vertically to the outside of the barrel. The upper end of the wire should be 5-6 cm higher than the edge of the barrel. With one hand we hold the wire, with the other hand we bend it inside the barrel and also press it tightly against the wall. The short part of the hook 4-5 cm long is enough.
Before lowering the double bag into the barrel, I hung one hook on each barrel with the long side of the hook facing out. If you inserted a cylinder into the barrel, the short end of the hook must be on top of it. When wrapping with tape, you can not stick the outer end of the hook, the tape should be at least a little higher than the tip. The hook will create two air outlet channels.
The bag will press tightly against the barrel under water pressure, and even if you scoop out water from the barrel, the bag will still remain tightly pressed.
For many years
Please note: with this method, water is perfectly stored all season. It is clean and has no rust. It can even be used for washing clothes and primary washing vegetables.
Packages can be removed for the winter and kept warm, for example, in a city apartment, their weight and volume are insignificant. Polyethylene will retain its properties and last at least one more season. Saving! Barrels should be stored after the close of the season in a dry place, and they will last for many years without any repair.
By the way, not only a leaky barrel is suitable for storing water in this way. It can be any container, as long as it serves as a reliable frame for the package. For example, you can hammer wooden box, whose cross-sectional area and its height are consistent with the dimensions of the package.
I already wanted to seal the letter in an envelope, but my wife said: “And if the summer resident is unable to buy packages? How to be? And here is her advice, instead of bags, you can use a film for greenhouses in the form of a sleeve - bend the sleeve lengthwise, bend it across, lower it into a barrel, cut it off at the top with a margin ... Further, I think it's understandable.
If we fill all the leaky barrels and other leaky containers with water, we will have something to water the gardens and vegetable gardens, and we will good harvests even in dry years. I urge everyone to follow my lead. I wish you all health and enough water - the basis of life on earth (of course, God save you from floods).
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3 actual benefits!
plastic bucket repair
How to seal a plastic canister?
fugitive 08-04-2010 16:11
Friends.
Here's the incident.
After the Weekend Journey (Easter Procession, if you will), a collapsible canister was found to be leaking. Polyethylene canister from Tatonka. A tiddly leak formed in the area where the hollow handle was attached - they filled it to the eyeballs, 10 liters, it seemed to bark when carrying.
It's a pity for the canister - four or five years like with me, a good thing.
Yes, and it’s worthless to write off everything in a row and throw money away.
Here is the question. Polyethylene doesn't stick well at all. Maybe someone glued? And if so, what? I look at the device and think - either heat it, or glue it, or stick the base of the handle with epoxy (it seems like epoxy adheres to everything except fluoroplast, there was once an experience of gluing plastic - polypropylene).
Before I break the canister, can anyone remember something? A?
Ummka 08-04-2010 16:22
Try to solder with an ordinary electric soldering iron, and to unload the pen in a light cloth string bag, wear it. For three years we have been using a folding canister under the pivo
minorite 08-04-2010 16:29
I also soldered with a soldering iron. I wiped it with gasoline on both sides, dried it and with a small soldering iron of 25 watts, gently, like pulling on polyethylene, “patched up” the crack.
After this operation, the wall turned out to be thinner, of course, in that place, but it seemed to withstand water.
fugitive 08-04-2010 17:02
Thanks, colleagues.
Essno, as a normal Maine, I went through the question along the way.
You are right - welding. Is there some more chemical methods, but I don’t have such a muck like a hrompic.
But. While the canister dries, I drove the properties of polyethylene here and something else. In general, polyethylene is easy to cook - not ice. It destructurizes and depolymerizes when melted, as a result, it becomes more brittle in this place. And then there's the load (after all, the pen - no matter how you pack it in a string bag, and some thread of a hack by the handle will still explode).
But hot melt adhesive, as it turned out, is a copolymer of polyethylene, it polymerizes just during melting and, moreover, has a lower melting point. What you need. I have several types, I found the most elastic one right now.
As the canister dries thoroughly, I’ll try to brew it with a hot-melt adhesive with a soldering iron through a fumlent (it seems to be fluoroplastic, it won’t stick to a soldering iron or polyethylene, so as not to make snot), without melting the polyethylene base much. At the same time, I think, what trick can be taken from the inside ...
evgenstr 08-04-2010 17:42
if a place with a hole does not carry a load, you can simply brew it with a soldering iron. if under load, try something like " cold welding", which, if memory serves, does not stick to ordinary tracing paper ...
would be nice to see a photo...
Ummka 08-04-2010 18:18quote: I’ll try to brew it with a hot-melt adhesive with a soldering iron through a fumlent (it seems to be fluoroplastic, not for a soldering iron,
I want to remind you that when heated above 200 degrees, the fluoroplastic decomposes with the release of gas from the phosgene group Susliks 08-04-2010 18:20quote:Originally posted by evgenstr:
would be nice to see a photo...
I think this is a standard canister here:
fugitive 08-04-2010 21:03quote: I think this is a standard canister here:
Quite right. Just more volume.
A crack near the handle next to the faucet lid.
I had to leave here. Just returned. We'll figure it out.
Ummka 08-04-2010 22:00
If not soldered, in a problematic place, instead of fittings, you can melt a piece of iron mesh
ZedkiN 09-04-2010 12:10
Duc with epoxy or paxipol to cover up and business then!
fugitive 09-04-2010 01:20
They drove me around the house here.
Until I glued it. Postponed until tomorrow. I will definitely share the result.
quote: Duc with epoxy or paxipol to cover up and business then!
Not. It won't roll. Work on the polypropylene cover showed that the epoxy adheres to it, but it is too hard. Without at least partially repeating the bends of the product during operation, it either bursts and flies off by itself, or a new unnatural bend is formed and again a crack ... And then - due to the fragility of the resin, they will not hold a flexible area if "spread". The layer is too thin. If the part is motionless, then I even sculpt the gluing with a plump hat. And it won't work here.
And this despite the fact that out of everything available at hand, only the good old domestic resin was normally sucked to polypropylene, which is sold on the market for "bottling" (I can't remember the name, like EN-8 or something like that, transparent matte, without filler).
How to fix a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister
Imported "plasticines" in general ...
Did the author himself see this glue?
evgenstr 09-04-2010 09:04quote:Originally posted by Susliks:
I think this is a standard canister here
it would be nice to look at the photo of the place of failure ...))
if possible, attach a patch from the same material as the canister.
13mm 09-04-2010 09:31
I'm sentimental today...
Maybe say "thank you" to her and send her to rest.
ek-burger 09-04-2010 12:46
IMHO after 4-5 years of operation it is easier to throw it away and buy a new one. stick in one place, rub in another.
Some kind of rodent bit me in the parking lot at night. on one of the folds of the accordion. sealed with silver epoxy tape.
proba999 09-04-2010 13:19
We have been successfully using such cans for a long time, and we used Tatonka, and other manufacturers. It has been noticed, and not only by me, that canisters up to 5 liters inclusive live longer, 2-3 years, but 10 liter ones fail in the handle area, if not a puncture, of course.
Throw out the canister and get a new one. And stock up. Do not take 10 liters, a couple of 5 liters is better.
Very worthy cansitra, given the volume and weight
No, do not throw it away, repair it, post a photo report to comrades, test it and then throw it away. For me personally, it would be relevant - repair is not at home
Homo sapiens 09-04-2010 14:05
The place that is subjected to the greatest load has cracked (at least as I understood from the description), therefore, it is useless to repair without removing the load from this place, even if the repair site itself remains whole and cracks nearby - it’s time to see. The only option is repair and simultaneous unloading of the handle.
ZedkiN 09-04-2010 20:57quote: And with poxypl, it’s generally strange advice, however ...
Did the author himself see this glue?
Ahem... I also used paxipol with epoxy... moreover, in extreme conditions (I glued the car radiator, there was a fairly large crack and I left it for more than 3 months, and you know, after all, the pressure is high and the temperature is decent). Only it is necessary not only to spread, but also to pre-attach a piece of cloth (this is about epoxy).
GPMS 09-04-2010 20:58
I glue plastic with a building hair dryer and plastic sticks (for glue guns I don't know what they are called correctly. Heat up the plastic and the glue stick with a hair dryer. You smear the glue over the place of the crack and heat it up a little more, it turns out that the plastic of the canister and the plastic of the glue stick are integrated into each other. The main thing is not to overdo it.
set 09-04-2010 21:17
And if you cut off the handles are hollow: one mount, where the hole is completely, and cut off the second so that the resulting segment of the tube near the canister is soldered or glued by squeezing or with a cork inward on the glue. And where there is a hole: cut flush and clamp between two rubber and two metal washers on a bolt and nut (you can probably use glue). Well, wear it naturally in a mesh or bag. Something like this. If the one-piece joint of the handle and the body could not stand it, then the repair one is even more so.
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How to glue plastic?
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44
like this - provided that all the pieces are picked up Do not offer a car service for bumpers - it's very expensive and in general I want to try it myself
Ann 14-01-2010 11:49
I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator can be stupidly glued together with a thermal gun, and it works fine further. Just glued the seam, and that's it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and "plaster" it on a layer of glue, so that it would be stronger.
Well, of course, you need to look at what kind of plastic, some are glued just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55
When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13
How many pieces?
Sometimes epoxy rolls onto a fabric base.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17
I don't know yet
TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22
dichloroethane glues well ... if you first dissolve some of this plastic in it ...
but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance ...
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40quote:Originally posted by Sportist:
When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
buy a thermal gun and glue with heating through fiberglass or other fittings. Old buckets - polyethylene, everything will stick together to die.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42quote:Originally posted by Sportist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?
yes how how...
Soldering plastic barrels!
you stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - you glue it right along the seam, it grabs quickly, having collected it, with inside glue the mesh, fiberglass at the seams.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43
forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then polyethylene is there with a high degree of probability, or polypropylene, and DCE will not take it.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13
Dichloroethane will most likely not work here ... What is a thermal gun? In my understanding, this is Chinese shnyaga for 50 rubles, which spits hot melt adhesive (hot melt adhesive in rods)
alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18
yeah, it’s for them, the casing will be heavily thermally loaded? if yes, then there is dandyl heat resistant compound
Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49
How thermally loaded is the casing on outboard motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. I'll have to try hot melt adhesive.
makarharp 14-01-2010 15:24
somewhere on motorcycle sites I saw an exhaustive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that I even duplicated it here ... look, you can find it.
alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25
then there is a reserve, take the rods from 160 and that's it.
There is experience in repairing two NON-FUCKING holes on the plastic of the radiator with a dandyl compound, heat-resistant, black. Zallos like a monolith, shaking blows suffered with honor.
Insert a plastic bag into the bucket.
The small size of the crack will prevent water from flowing through the bag. If the bucket is stationary, then this is the best method in terms of simplicity and execution. This is how I repaired a plastic barrel. Instillation with molten polyethylene begins to flow when deformed.
I myself have not tried to seal plastic buckets, but I have seen how it is done. We take a regular plastic bag and use a soldering iron to seal the crack with this, smearing it. You can also do this with a piece of plastic using a soldering iron. At the dacha, they watered with such a bucket: the water did not leak.
Try to seal it with cold welding. If it holds water in the car radiator, then it will certainly hold plastic. But I tried to melt it somehow, it doesn’t work, some kind of plastic is being produced wrong))) You excuse me previous authors.
So, how to fix a hole, a crack in a plastic bucket? I don’t know about soldering plastic, small holes in a plastic bucket can still be soldered somehow, but large cracks are unlikely to work well. There are other options for how to close up a crack in a plastic bucket, I don’t do such nonsense myself, so I read it on the forum. To do this, you need to take some extra piece of plastic, then put it in some kind of dish (but not in plastic), pour it with acetone, close the lid and wait a bit until the piece of plastic softens. Then add Moment glue and quickly seal everything up.
And yet, in special stores liquid plastic is sold in tubes, it can also be used to close up a crack in a plastic bucket or whatever you have ...
Some advise applying epoxy to the degreased surface and fiberglass on top, and for reliability it is better to do this twice.
I would try in this situation to resort to the help of an ordinary soldering iron! Carefully soldering the crack on both sides!) True, molten plastic would not have a very beneficial effect on the sting of this device!)
Hardware stores sell so-called welding for plastic products. The surface to be sealed must be cleaned of dust, degreased with alcohol and dried thoroughly. After that, prepare the welding: mix a small amount of the mixture according to the instructions and apply to the crack with neat, precise strokes. Level the seam with a knife or spatula, and allow time for shrinkage and drying. Do not deviate from the instructions, follow the safety precautions and everything will work out as it should.
I had such trouble with the basin. A hole formed and I burned it with a soldering iron. The plastic melted and sealed the hole. Has been serving for 4 years now. And also fixed a bucket in the country. I just plugged the hole with chewed gum and smeared it on the bottom. All the so-called repairs were done from the outside of the vessel. Everything lasts more than one year.
cold welding for plastic. Clean the surface of dust and dirt and dry. Mix the mixture for no more than 5-6 minutes with your fingers. It is better to wear gloves. Use a spatula to seal the seam in the bucket.
I once patched up a hole, a big one, in a plastic bucket with an old soldering iron. I picked up a piece of plastic that was suitable in consistency and quality, and warming it up with a soldering iron, distributed it on the hole, starting with the edges, gradually, allowing it to harden. The only problem is that overheated plastic becomes more brittle in this way. But for a while that was enough.
I think that if this is just a crack that has not yet spread and turned into a hole, you can simply run a soldering iron along the crack from the inside and from the outside. This should be enough to ensure strength, restore tightness)
I have tried sealing plastic items by melting and dripping on the damage. Thus, nothing could be glued. Then I just started soldering holes in plastic with a soldering iron. This method can help seal the hole.
take a mesh from, say, a car speaker, cut off the required size a little wider than the crack and solder it from the inside of the bucket so that the mesh is not soldered deep by about 1-2 mm. solder over that place a small piece of another plastic, as it were, fill this area and the mustache will hold water, and you can sit upside down.
Your favorite basin or bucket has broken, but there is no opportunity to buy a new one? Don't be discouraged, with the help of plastic and tools, it is easy to repair any container in a matter of minutes.
Necessary materials and tools
We will need:
- A piece of plastic from the usual "one and a half";
- soldering iron;
- Broken container.
Before starting soldering, we clean the bucket or basin from contamination inside and out, and degrease it on both sides. Take a soldering iron with a large tip and heat it up. We start the process from the inside, gently running the soldering iron along the crack, from left to right (as if we were making strokes). We get our "patch" from plastic bottle and apply to the crack. We melt plastic to the defect, it's easy and convenient!
As a result, we get a strong and almost imperceptible seam, which will help the container to last for a long time. Even a plastic bag can be used as a material for sealing a gap.
other methods
A soldering iron is not always at hand, but this is not a reason to be upset. Plastic containers can be sealed in other ways:
- With the help of a solvent - drop a drop of solvent (toulol, dichloroethane, tetrahydrofuran) on both edges of the crack. Under the influence of the chemical, the plastic will soften, the edges of the crack must be firmly pressed against each other. After about a day, you can use a bucket or basin;
- You can make glue for the "patch". Take a piece of plastic and fill it with acetone (be sure to cover it). After a few hours, you will have a mass to which you need to add the usual "Moment". Seal the crack as soon as possible with such glue;
- You can also use special welding for plastic. A small amount of the composition is leveled over the surface of the crack and left to dry completely. If you follow the instructions - a very effective method.
Even a building hair dryer and a piece of waste plastic can help you solve your problem, so don't be afraid to experiment, perhaps. You will find other ways to repair utensils in the field.
For repairing barrels, flasks, buckets, watering cans, canisters, I use a primer to protect the bottom of cars. You can also use bitumen, but it must be warmed up, sometimes diesel fuel is added. It must be used quickly, because. in a small container, it thickens quickly. The primer, even if it has thickened (dry), then you need to add gasoline and leave for a day. If it is urgently needed, then you can stir it to the desired consistency in a couple of hours. Haste when working with a primer is not needed. And still need roofing felt or roofing material. You may need bolts, washers, nuts.
In 2011, we bought used barrels of 200 liters for 200 rubles and 100 liters for 100 rubles.
In a 100 l barrel, he cut out the top of the barrel with a chisel, and put it in a greenhouse.
In a 200 l barrel, I also started to cut down the top, already cut through 5 cm, but changed my mind and cut a hole for a bucket in the cylindrical part. And around the punched gap, I smeared it with a primer. I made one of several pieces of roofing felts, of the required thickness and length. I smeared each piece with a primer and inserted it into the cut slot with a screwdriver with a wide flat slot. The protruding ends of the felts were pressed in different directions to the plane of the barrel. When dry, I sprayed again. Both barrels primed, inside and out. Only it was necessary to sand the paint, because. primer didn't adhere well. This year will have to be primed again.
In barrels, flasks, buckets, watering cans, if there are holes small sizes holes must be drilled according to the size of the hole. Take a bolt with a nut, two metal washers. Washer outside diameter 10-20mm larger diameter holes. From roofing felts (you can rubber, paronite, etc.) make four (or six) washers. The outer diameter is equal to or slightly larger than the metal washers. The inner diameter of these washers is equal to the diameter of the bolt or slightly less. We put a metal washer on the bolt, then 2 washers from roofing felts. Insert the bolt into drilled hole. We put 2 washers from roofing felts on the bolt, then a metal washer. We put on the nut and tighten the connection.
Plastic buckets can burst around the circumference of the bottom over time. Until the bottom completely fell off, I cut out a circle from the roofing felt, with a diameter of 4 centimeters more than the diameter of the bottom. On the cut out circle, I drew a circle equal to the diameter of the bucket. Made radial cuts to a circle. The bottom of the bucket and the circle on one side were smeared with a primer. The circle was glued to the bottom of the bucket. You can also glue the bottom of metal buckets if they are very rusty. The outside should be primed, and they will serve for more than one year.
In some plastic 5 liter pails, the bottoms burst in straight lines. I glued the strips of roofing felts onto the primer. Such buckets can be used not only for water.
In watering cans with a narrow neck, where the hand cannot get through to the hole, we illogically drill a hole in canisters. Then, from the outside, we push a wire of small diameter, but rather rigid, folded in half to the neck. We attach the bolt with washers and carefully pull the end of the bolt out. We unhook the wire, carefully put on the washers, and put on the nut. Tightening the nut, hold the bolt with tweezers (or some other the right tool), first under the nut, then over the nut and tighten.
If your barrel is standing upright and in some places the walls or bottom are, as they say, "a little alive." My friend used them for another 2-3 years as follows. I took a plastic bag, a little larger than the barrel, put it inside, bent the edges of the bag onto the outer wall of the barrel. Of course, the thicker the polyethylene bag, the better.
Plastic buckets, canisters and tanks - things on suburban area necessary. Often, in the conditions of a summer residence, it is not possible to change an old bursting plastic container for a new product, but, if desired, it can always be repaired. How this can be done is described below.
If the bottom of a plastic bucket has burst, then it is useless to try to seal it. No glue can withstand the long-term pressure of the liquid poured into the container, and over time, the crack on the plastic will definitely open.
It is much more reliable to repair a broken bucket by sealing a crack in it with another suitable piece of plastic.
For this you will need:
large and powerful soldering iron;
plastic tape, which, for example, can be cut out of an unnecessary PET bottle, or a plastic tie;
any detergent.
It is necessary to solder the crack both inside the bucket and outside, and it is recommended to start from the inside, since there the edges of the crack can be superimposed on each other quite tightly, resting them against the surface on which the bucket stands.
If you start work from the outside of the crack, then its edges will spring, fall through and it will be difficult to impose them tightly on each other.
However, for convenience of perception, let us consider, after all, how a crack is sealed on a plastic bucket from its outer side, bearing in mind that it is already closed inside the container.
So, in order to solder a plastic bucket:
1. Its surface around the crack is thoroughly washed and degreased.
2. Turn on the soldering iron, wait for it to warm up and move its tip along the crack with smooth movements to the right and left, without pressing on the plastic so as not to burn it. Thus, melting the plastic at the edges of the crack, the tip of the soldering iron passes along its entire length.
3. Consistently stack plastic tape on the crack, starting from a point slightly further than its beginning. At the same time, the tape is heated with a soldering iron so that the melted plastic fills the crack cavities, that is, figuratively speaking, it is soldered.
4. After soldering, the cracks get a seam, which is additionally smoothed out with a hot soldering iron, moving its tip along this kind of “welded” line.
This is how easy and without any special tricks you can solder a crack on a plastic bucket or any other container made of plastic. Inside the bucket, the seam is made using the same technology.
It remains only to check whether it leaks after repair.
Video of the process of sealing a crack on a plastic bucket:
