Well      06/12/2019

Do-it-yourself outboard motor for an inflatable boat. How to make a boat motor from a trimmer or a screwdriver with your own hands

IN Lately fishing enthusiasts are increasingly attracted by the opportunity to independently make homemade outboard motor from a chainsaw. The existing variety in the market offering to purchase an outboard motor allows you to choose from a wide range of models and manufacturers. It will not be possible to equip your boat with a suitable engine big problem. If not for one "but" - the price, which is often not affordable for most people, especially those living in rural areas.

You can easily make a boat motor out of a chainsaw yourself and it will be cheaper than buying a motor in a store.

Of course, to move around the reservoir, you can use the method, as old as the world, rowing with oars. But how far can you sail this way? Yes, and the hands are busy all the time, in suspense - what a pleasure it is to hunt for fish ... This is where the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe advantages of an outboard motor arises. After thinking a little and checking the budget, many decide to make the motor on their own, using improvised means and mechanisms. Especially if at least minimal technical skills are available.

Features of a chainsaw outboard motor

From handy tool for sawing firewood, chainsaws, you can build almost anything by making not very significant changes to its design. Making a boat motor will require little intervention and keep the main function of the tool quite usable. But you have to choose either good saw, or quite a good engine, albeit low-power. And if you remember the price of a factory outboard motor that is close in power, it becomes clear that making a homemade product will cost almost three times cheaper.

Motor gearbox with modified deadwood: a - gearbox housing, b - stud with nut, d - reverse thrust, e - modified deadwood; 5 - propeller shaft.

Of course, you should not buy a chainsaw specifically to convert it into a motor for a boat. In this case, it is really better to purchase ready-made motors, specially designed to work both in calm water conditions and along a fairly strong current. It is more reliable, and the soul is calmer.

But the happy owners of "Friendship", "Calm" or other modifications may well be engaged in the modernization of the instrument. Especially if you have free time, certain skills and necessary tools and equipment.

It is better, of course, to use chainsaw models from German manufacturers with more power.

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Preparatory work

So, to make a homemade outboard motor from a chainsaw, you will need:

  • chainsaw;
  • gearbox from an unnecessary grinder, gear oil;
  • screw (little from an old motor or homemade);
  • transom (if not included);
  • clamp for fastening.

Of the auxiliary means will come in handy:

  • lathe(ideally, although you still cannot make different parts with improvised means);
  • ruler, caliper;
  • steel blanks;
  • blanks from the corner;
  • fixture.

First of all, you need to replace the base for the chain with a self-made screw design. At the same time, nothing is irrevocably altered, the mechanisms are simply rearranged. Replacing one unit with another right on the river bank will take very little time and will not reduce the hunting passion.

First, the clutch is redone. The process is to machine a smaller cup and replace the spring. All these manipulations are performed in order to reduce the starting torque of the clutch and adjust the dimensions and weight of the structure to more suitable parameters.

For example, if you have roller bearings like 941/12 and two pieces of 7000 CD, as well as a suitable shaft, a cup with an outer diameter of 78 mm, about 16.5 mm thick, is quite suitable. The plane of contact of the coupling bowl facing the engine with the sides of each sector is approximately 3 mm larger than their thickness (in the particular case, it approaches 14 mm), the remaining space above the movable part of the coupling of 4 mm is enough. In a set of such a cup with the specified type of roller bearing, the grip is quite good. It is also necessary to provide grooves for brackets, three are enough. Staples are made from a corner with a side of 25 millimeters, one side of them has a trapezoidal shape. The bowl and the coupling cover are connected with brackets, which are clamped with a screw and washer. The pin connecting the shaft and the coupling cup is covered with a screw with a strap.

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Installation of the unit structure

The assembled height of the structure is barely 10 cm (including the body, protective screen, including the distance to the support plate). The distance between the axes of the studs in this case will be 32 mm with a height of 24.5, the center distance from the shaft to the first stud will be 54 mm. Considering that the weight of the entire structure (albeit without taking into account the tire) is quite suitable, a little more than 4.5 kg, for fastening you can choose a stud with a metric thread with a diameter of 8 mm and a thread pitch of 1 mm.

To fix the motor and shaft, you need a channel. Armed with a grinder, a mount is cut out of the workpiece desired configuration, and then drill holes for fasteners connecting this design and the chainsaw itself.

When assembling, make sure there is sufficient distance between the front coupling shell and the support frame. A gearbox borrowed from a grinder will be attached to the second side of the shaft.

The next stage of work will be the design of the rotary assembly. To do this, you need a piece of tube with a diameter slightly larger than the shaft with a welded corner for attaching the guide, a hollow hexagonal guide, a metal rod of a suitable diameter and a rectangular metal blank with holes in the ends for fixing the rod, as well as a slot in the upper part for ease of operation.

The edges of the cut "handle" in the workpiece must be carefully cleaned. A guide is attached to the corner by welding, and then, using a rod, the resulting structure is connected to a rectangular “handle”. At the ends of the rod, threads can be cut for secure fastening, you can simply install with a slight interference. Then the entire assembly is mounted on the shaft and fixed in a place convenient for control.

Well, and, of course, before assembly, the parts must be given as aesthetic an appearance as possible, for which each of them is cleaned and painted.

At the next step, you will have to deal with the adaptation of the gearbox shaft for the available propeller. This important detail it is desirable, of course, to use the finished one, you can remove it from the old motor. For those who are not looking for easy ways, a homemade option is possible. In the image and likeness of a screw of factory origin, a mold is made into which the future screw is poured using epoxy glue and fiberglass. After simple manipulations (grinding, painting) the screw is ready. However, it must be borne in mind that the propeller will take on a significant load, and in the manufacture it is very important to correctly withstand all dimensions. Therefore, it is still better to use a ready-made part.

After connecting the screw and the gearbox shaft with a stud, the final stage begins. Transmission oil is poured into the gearbox, the cover, together with the installed shaft, is fastened using a sealant. And then - the final assembly of the entire structure. For ease of use, you can additionally mount the throttle.

More and more anglers are thinking about installing a motor on a boat. It allows you to speed up the movement on the reservoir and save your hands from hard work with oars. When physical strength a man becomes smaller, ingenuity comes to the rescue. It turns out that you can make a boat motor with your own hands from various household appliances. For those waters where it is forbidden to use gasoline engines, electric current is used as the driving force. In other cases, it is better to choose devices with gasoline power units.

Many anglers have faulty electrical or gas equipment in their closet or garage. If the motor in it is working, then such a device can be modified for an existing boat. In some cases, it is even cheaper to purchase a new screwdriver or lawn mower and modify the device than. Exactly financial question pushes numerous "left-handers" and "homemade" to unique developments.

  1. To make a homemade electric outboard motor, you will need a cordless drill or screwdriver. In this case, the angler will have to solve the following problems.
    • Unfortunately, the capacity of the standard battery will not be enough for carefree sailing, so you will have to take a 12V car battery on board. Accordingly, the device must also operate at the same voltage. As for power, with light rubber boat an electrical appliance that produces more than 300 watts will cope.
    • The rotation speed of the screwdriver is quite high, so it is necessary to install a reduction gear.
    • You also need to purchase or make your own drive shaft and propeller.

Homemade will work silently, which is very important for good fishing. In addition, it will be cheaper to replace a failed electric motor than to repair a boat engine.

  1. Do-it-yourself gasoline engines made for the boat allow you to significantly increase the fishing area. These can be power units from chainsaws, lawn mowers, walk-behind tractors, etc. The choice of installation depends on the size and design of the vessel, as well as on which of the devices is available.
    • Trimmers require the least modifications. They seem to be designed to be installed on a fishing boat. It is enough just to put a propeller instead of a reel with a fishing line and the outboard motor from the trimmer can already be tested on a nearby pond.
    • Engines from a chainsaw, motorcycle or walk-behind tractor will require more intervention skillful hands. Requires an angle gearbox from a grinder, a shaft and a propeller.

All homemade boat motors require a special fixture to attach to the side of the boat. It's one thing when to which you need to attach the engine. It is somewhat more difficult to fix the power unit on a conventional rubber band with inflatable sides around the perimeter.

Making an engine from a screwdriver

Good homemade motors for boats are obtained on the basis of cordless screwdrivers. The use of a device with a battery voltage of 12V looks optimal. It will be possible to connect a car battery with a capacity of 45-55 Ah to such an electric motor. Refinement will consist of several stages.

lifting mechanism

The propeller of an electric motor for a do-it-yourself boat must move not only in a horizontal plane, but have a certain immersion limit and rise completely out of the water. The simplest design would be a clamp system to which the engine is mounted. It is rigidly attached to the transom with steel frame and plates. Clamps are equipped with rings through which the tube will pass. A shaft of steel wire or bar will pass inside. Suitable fittings are pressed inside the tube to ensure easy sliding. overall dimensions bearings.

Reducer and propeller

The screwdriver is capable of developing high speeds, which is required when drilling. A homemade electric motor for a boat does not need such high speed, so a reducer is installed to reduce them. Most suitable option becomes the attachment of the gearbox from the grinder. In the screwdriver's chuck, it is enough to clamp the top of the shaft to ensure a secure connection.

The role of a propeller can be played by an impeller from a car pump or a computer cooler. But such a do-it-yourself electric motor will not be able to provide the boat with the necessary speed. You can make a propeller from a piece of stainless steel 2.5-3.0 mm thick.

  1. First you need to cut a square blank measuring 30x30 cm.
  2. A square with a side length of 5 cm is marked in the center. Diagonal lines are drawn through the corners. They will be cut to a small square.
  3. Each petal should be rounded and rotated along the axis by 30 degrees.
  4. A hole is made in the central part for fastening to the gearbox.
  5. It remains to connect everything securely and test the resulting boat electric motor with your own hands.

Refinement of lawn mowers

The outboard motor from the trimmer requires a little refinement in order to get a workhorse for the boat. Dignity petrol trimmers is a small price and maintainability. Homemade motors for boats based on lawn mowers have a built-in tank, shaft and gearbox. You can look for a special conversion kit, which will have a propeller and a stainless steel drive, as well as a set of adapters to the trimmer shaft. Often there are kits with a clamp for installation on a transom, so there will be no problems with fastening to a watercraft. If you act according to the attached instructions, then the outboard motor from the lawn mower can be done in 20-30 minutes.

More skills will be needed from the angler if he decides to radically change the design of the trimmer. In this case, there is a huge scope for imagination and ingenuity. One option involves the manufacture of a vertical leg.

  1. To rotate the shaft 90 degrees relative to the engine, you need a gearbox from a grinder.
  2. The existing tube from the trimmer must be shortened with a cutting machine. Inside the sleeve it is better to replace the bearings.
  1. A simple screw can be made from a strip of duralumin 10x30 cm 2 mm thick. Having attached a stencil with a two-bladed screw to the workpiece, it is necessary to make markings. You can cut the screw with a grinder and a chisel. The edges must be filed. Putting the plate on flat surface, both blades should be bent to a height of 1 cm.

Advice! During the test, you can make the necessary adjustments. At low speeds, the blade is undercut or the pitch of the propeller changes.

  1. A hole is drilled in the center to connect to the shaft. So that during rotation the blade does not touch the vessel's balloon, it is better to make an annular nozzle. The outboard motor based on the trimmer is ready, you can go to the pond.

Manufacture of mounting and installation on the boat

Homemade motors for boats require special attachment. The principle of its manufacture is as follows.

In order to reliably from the scythe, it is necessary to use a ring to which the belt is mounted. To connect the braid to the transom, you can use the old manual meat grinder. The lower part is cut out of it, a hole 12 mm thick is drilled in the transverse plane of the body. It is important to carry out some refinement with a hairpin with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 10 cm. One side is flattened, a hole 6 mm thick is drilled in it. An M6 bolt is inserted into it, then the eye of the lawn mower is mounted and the nut is screwed on.

Installation homemade installation to the ship in the following order.

  • A self-made mount is mounted on the transom of the boat using a stud and the corresponding nut.
  • Now the engine is installed and fixed with threaded connection. It remains to check how it turns on the boat in different directions.

Homemade motors for boats are not only an opportunity to increase the speed of your boat. The manufacturing process will allow the brain to turn on at full speed, as a result of which another folk invention may be born.

In "KiYa" No. 92, an article "Motor in a backpack" was published, where talked about a homemade outboard motor assembled by hand, weighing only 5.5 kg. The article was for informational purposes and, apart from a photograph of the motor, did not contain details of the design and technological order.

After the publication of the article, the author and the editors of the journal received numerous letters from readers asking them to provide drawings for the refinement of the D5 engine and recommendations on technology. handmade individual details. The author used the D5 engine from a moped produced in previous years, which had a magneto with a rotor diameter of 37 mm. The currently produced engines of the "D" type differ from the "D5" only in the increased size of the magneto, which does not affect the design of the outboard motor at all. True, the weight of the engine will increase by about 0.2 kg.

The crankshaft is preliminarily disassembled into two halves, which are connected by a crank pin with an interference fit. The part of the crankshaft on which the magneto is attached is called the upper part, the part on which there is a trunnion with a suction hole is called the lower part.

From both parts we cut off massive rings at the place of welding. The top trunnion must be lengthened to accommodate the main bearing, magneto rotor, ignition cam and flywheel. An M10 thread is cut at its end. At final assembly the magneto rotor, cam and flywheel are mounted on the shaft and tightened with an M10 nut. To lengthen the trunnion, a blank of round steel grade 45 with a diameter of at least 18 mm and a length of 100 mm is required. On a lathe, a shank with an M10x1.0 thread 10 mm long is machined at one of the ends. Then, the upper part of the shaft is installed in the lathe and carefully centered on the neck of the shaft with a diameter of 17P. A trunnion is cut off from the left end of this half at a distance of 13 mm. In the remaining part of the trunnion, a hole for the M10x1.0 thread is bored to a depth of 12 mm. We screw the workpiece with a threaded end into the pin hole and tighten it with a key with a torque of 3 kg / cm. A V-shaped groove is machined at the junction. Having wrapped the trunnion with an asbestos cord (except for the groove), we weld the joint by manual electric welding to a seam diameter of at least 18 mm. After that, you can make the final turning of the shaft.

Having processed both halves of the crank to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, the crankshaft can be assembled. After its assembly and final alignment, the crank pin from the ends is welded to the cheeks at three points by electric welding, followed by cleaning the welding spots with emery.

Square shank lower trunnion ( section B-B) is performed over in a simple way, since there is already a threaded hole in the trunnion. The square is made of steel 45, hardened and, after screwing into the trunnion, is welded by manual electric welding without further machining.

The coordinates of twelve holes with a diameter and a depth of 7 mm on the cheeks of the crank are chosen arbitrarily in place; they are made to lighten the shaft. The finished crankshaft should weigh 0.6 kg; in combination with other rotating masses (magneto rotor, flywheel) it ensures stable operation of the engine.

The landing hole in the magneto rotor is bored to a diameter of 12 mm and, when mounted on the shaft, is fixed with a pin with a diameter of 2 mm.

The ignition cam must be made new from steel 35. Its working profile is made according to the standard cam, then the cam is ground and hardened. The cam is attached to the rotor with a pin. Therefore, the magneto rotor must have pin holes on both sides.

The flywheel is made of steel 35 and is locked on the shaft with three M5x10 mm set screws, under which conical recesses must be drilled on the shaft (section B-B). This is done after the magneto rotor, ignition cam and flywheel are planted on the shaft with holes drilled for the set screws, but without threads, and everything is finally tightened with an M10 nut. Recesses for screws are drilled through the flywheel, thereby achieving the necessary accuracy in final assembly.

The deadwood of the outboard motor is made of a 32x3 mm round aluminum tube. Welded to its ends argon arc welding connecting flanges made of aluminium, 6 mm thick. Deadwood length 345 mm. An engine is attached to its upper flange through a gasket, to the lower flange also through a gasket made of oil-resistant rubber 4 mm thick - a gearbox with a propeller. Inside the deadwood a vertical shaft rotates, made of steel pipe 12x1. Its length, together with welded squares, is 335 mm. A suspension bracket from is freely put on the deadwood, the inner hole of which is bored out to a diameter of 32 mm.

The gearbox from the Salyut motor is undergoing the greatest refinement. All parts of the water pump are removed and the holes are welded or sealed with epoxy. The main thing is that when the motor is assembled, water does not get into the cavity of the deadwood and gearbox. Water for cooling the cylinder is supplied by the hydrodynamic head of the propeller through an 8x1 mm aluminum pipe. It is attached to the bottom flange of the deadwood. Its end, facing the plane of rotation of the screw, is flared to a diameter of 12 mm and has a funnel shape. The center of the circle of this hole is located at a distance of 10 mm from the plane of rotation of the rear edge of the screw and 80 mm from the axis of the screw. The other end of the tube is connected to the engine with a thin rubber hose.

In order to independently assemble the outboard motor, you need to understand its device. Additionally, it should be borne in mind that a tiller is required to control the model. In this case, it is more advisable to use parts from an old outboard motor. Trays for the engine are selected separately. You should also pay Special attention fuel system. Some experts are able to fold the outboard motor from a chainsaw or trimmer.

Simple motor device

At the top of any outboard motor is the engine itself. Through the fuel pump, it is connected to the piston system. Additionally, it should be noted that the outboard motor has a special rocker arm. It is necessary in order to ensure the operation of the valves. In this case, much depends on the cubic capacity of the engine. A clamp is located on the pallet in the outboard motor. With its help, it is possible to fix the model on board.

Clamps above the pallet are not always used. In some cases, gearboxes are also installed. Today there are a wide variety of deadwoods. Directly below them is the crankshaft, which is connected to the central rod. Thus, the torque is transferred to the lower gear. Through a special head, the screws are rotated.

chainsaw model

You can make a chainsaw outboard motor, but you need parts from an outdated model. First of all, the engine of the device is removed. It is installed directly on the pallet. In this case, the fuel system for it, you can choose the most common. In this case, the limit frequency parameter will not exceed 1300 rpm. The rocker arms on these boats are suitable with three valves. However, special attention must be paid to the type of convector.

With this part, it will be possible to control the tiller. After fixing the top plate, it is possible to move on to the deadwood. in this case, it is better to choose a durable one. In this case, the central rod must be borrowed from the old outboard motor. At the end of the work, you only need to install the lower gear with screws. An additional pump is required to pump out water.

trimmer motor

Trimmer motors are quite easy to assemble. First of all, experts advise removing the handle. It needs to be replaced with a stock. Next, it is important to make a pallet for the engine. In this case, you can even use a cast-iron stove. The engine must be mounted on it very carefully. The fuel pump for the system can be used conventional. However, it is more expedient to select a durable camshaft, otherwise it will not withstand heavy loads. Deadwood in this case is attached only after fixing the upper gear.

If desired, a thermostat can be installed on outboard motors (homemade). The clamp is mounted after the deadwood is fixed. To prevent the engine gearbox from hanging out, many experts advise using a special rubber gasket. The screws of the model must be fixed on a vertical shaft.

Motoblock model

It is quite difficult to assemble home-made outboard motors from a walk-behind tractor, but it is possible. If we consider electrical modifications, then the starter is removed from the device first. In addition, the motor must be disconnected. If a four-stroke modification is used, then the most common fuel system will do. In this case, it is important to select a high-quality water pump. In turn, deadwood can be taken from an outdated outboard motor. To secure the fuel pump, many use various clamps. The easiest way is considered to be setting it over the carburetor. At the same time, it should not come into contact with the rocker arm.

The crankshaft for outboard motors (homemade) should be mounted above the top gear. At this stage, you need to check the strength of the clamp. The pallet, in turn, should not overlap it. Water pump in this case, it is installed under the deadwood. In order not to interfere with the operation of the lower rod, many experts advise using special springs. After fixing them, it remains only to fix the screws and the tiller.

Devices with a double-sided handwheel

Making a do-it-yourself outboard motor with a double-sided flywheel is not an easy task. The engine in this case is more appropriate to choose a two-stroke type. In this case, the rocker under it should be designed for three valves. Also, before installation, it is necessary to check the strength of the pushers. They must withstand a maximum pressure of at least 3 bar. In this case, it will be possible to hope for a stable operation of the engine. The pallet in this case must be mounted under the clamp. For convenience, it can be fastened with screws and then use a sealant. After fixing the tiller, the deadwood is connected. The outboard motor propeller protection is installed last.

Models with two-stroke engines

You can do it yourself with a two-stroke one only if you use a crankshaft with a diameter of at least 60 mm. Otherwise, it will not withstand the load. The flywheel in this case, you can pick up the usual. In this case, the fuel pump must withstand a maximum pressure of at least 3 bar. Rocker arms experts advise installing only three valves. The thermostat is mounted on boat motors (homemade) if desired.

Exhaust valves in the system are most often installed aluminum. Cooling devices are available in a variety of today. by the most simple option considered to be a water modification. To do this, intakes should be provided in advance in the pallet. Pushers above the engine must be installed last. Deadwood for two-stroke modification is suitable with a 120 mm stem.

Devices with four-stroke engines

You can assemble a homemade outboard motor with a four-stroke engine, but you will have to use parts from another model. In particular, it is necessary to separately select the clamp for the device. You should also pay attention to the fact that the rocker will be required in this case for four valves. In this case, the tank is installed under the fuel system near the pallet.

Deadwoods for the engine are selected, as a rule, for two rods. In this case, the crankshaft must be selected separately. Connectors in such devices are installed quite often. The tiller must be attached directly to the flywheel. It is best to use steel clamps for this. In this case, it is quite difficult to do without welding.

Manual starter modifications

Homemade outboard motors (swamps) with manual starters are quite common. These components are installed near the camshaft. In order to secure them, you must use a rubber gasket. In this case, there must be at least four screws. If we consider four-stroke engines, then there, as a rule, starters are installed of an electronic type. However, for two-stroke modifications handheld devices fit perfectly.

Model with protected gear

Outboard motors with a protected gearbox today are quite in demand. In order to assemble them yourself, you need to pick up an engine with a power of at least 3 kW. The starter in this case is suitable manual type. First of all, a clamp for the engine is cut out. Only after that you can proceed with the installation of the fuel system. The thermostat, if desired, is installed on the rocker.

The next step is to attach the gearbox. To prevent the rocker from twitching during operation, a gasket can be placed under it. Pushers are installed on the pallet, and for this you will need to use welding machine. In this case, it is important to fasten the upper stem under the clamp. To prevent pressure from deforming the pallet, many experts advise installing additional supports.

Devices with anti-cavitation plate

Outboard motors with the help of an anti-cavitation plate are controlled quite comfortably. In this case, it is necessary to start work on assembling the device by fixing the engine. Only after that the clamps are welded. Screws can be used to secure the fuel pump. In this case, it is not necessary to install a gasket. Special attention should be paid to the fuel system. It should be attached next to the water piston. The anti-cavitation plate is fixed near the connector. However, it should not come into contact with the pallet. As a result, it remains only to install the deadwood.

Motor with gearbox

Outboard motors with gearboxes are quite difficult to assemble. In this case, the connector must be selected high-quality. In turn, the engine can be used four-stroke. The pushers for the system are installed quite wide. The gearbox should be mounted at the upper flange. In order to avoid short circuits, all wiring must be carefully hidden. Additionally, you should take care of a good water pump. To block the upper rod from the carburetor, you can use a sealant.

Model with reverse lock

In order to assemble a motor with a reverse lock, it is first necessary to fix the motor as standard. After that, the tiller is connected to the plate. fuel system can only be installed after the rocker arm. In order not to pinch the carburetor, many advise using gaskets.

The reverse lock should be attached directly under the clamp. For this purpose, it is necessary to use a welding machine. After that, it remains only to fix the deadwood. If the outboard motor is installed with a gearbox, then the latch can be located directly in it. However, this is quite difficult to do due to the fact that you have to cut the block body.

For many people, the favorite form of recreation is swimming in the water, sailing on a boat or catamaran.

For walks on long distance most suitable motor boats. Fishermen prefer to fish on simple, rowing boats.

Such vessels silently glide through the water, but they require skillful control, and their speed is not high. The craftsmen decided to combine their advantages. They replaced powerful engine to a motor powered by a battery.

What power do you need to choose a motor for a boat?

As an electric motor, we use a generator with a capacity of 2 liters. With. It is quite enough for the boat to operate at a low speed of 10 km / h. The motor is powered by two batteries.

The NKN-45 model has sufficient capacity, it will last for almost 4 hours of continuous operation in enhanced mode. This time is enough to find a place for fishing, catch fish and return home.

The electric motor works quietly, does not disturb neighboring fishermen with its noise, does not emit harmful fumes into the atmosphere.

The simplicity of such a mechanism is explained by not complex mechanical and electrical components.

Since the power of the electric motor is small, the current flows to it from the battery directly. With such a low power, no additional adjustment devices will be required.

How to assemble such an engine yourself

Doing it yourself won't amount great work. This will require the following materials:

  1. Steel pipes;
  2. metal sheet 8 mm thick;
  3. steel bar with a diameter of 20 mm;
  4. electric motor;
  5. propeller pylon.

Electric motor assembly diagram

On the upper part of the flange we punch a mounting groove, it will be needed for mounting the electric motor. We make 4 threaded holes.

They will be required to secure the engine. Next, we punch a rectangular hole with a side size of 50 by 100 mm. A handle is placed in it to control the engine in skew mode.

WITH reverse side a bracket is welded to the flange. It is used to install the motor control lever. As a handle, an aluminum pipe is used, the length of which is 26 centimeters and the diameter is 22 mm.

Trimmer boat electric motor

The original version of the boat motor: using a trimmer to cut grass. This device has a long rod with a rotating shaft, a fairly powerful engine.

To use it as a motor, you need to make a small transformation: change the device for fishing line with wide blades.

The device is reliably protected from water ingress on the electrical wiring. A petrol-powered trimmer works especially well in water. This option is suitable for pensioners, people with low incomes.

Electric motor for a boat based on a device: a screwdriver

Its rotation speed is slightly lower than that of an engine from a gas trimmer, but such a motor is much cheaper, has a number of advantages and advantages:

  • 12 W battery can be connected to it;
  • the power reserve is enough for 6-8 hours of continuous operation;
  • low cost of movement.

Let's say a few words about the operation of the device. Although it has little power, it is quite suitable for trips over short distances.

Do-it-yourself electric motors, powered by a battery, are easy to maintain and install, and make almost no noise during operation. Should be recharged periodically battery. Such a device is economical, does not harm nature.

Also watch a video with a description of a homemade motor for a boat from a lawn mower.