While creating various devices It is very useful to have springs on hand. The question naturally arises: how much, what type and size may be needed next time and how to make a spring with your own hands?
In this case, sometimes there is a situation when it is difficult to find a spring that perfectly matches your requirements. So why not make your own?
Making springs can seem intimidating, but with a basic tool and simple instructions, anyone can make one.
In this article, I'll show you how to make some of them, the easiest ones first, and then I'll move on to some "advanced" tools, but that won't add to the complexity of the creation process.
Step 1: Types
Here are a few of the many types of springs we will learn how to make. From left to right:
- Stretch
- Compressive
- conical
- Torsion
Step 2: Get started with basic tools
You can start creating a lot different types using the tools indicated in the list:
- pin diameter 1.4 cm
- piano string or wire
- pliers with cutters
- clamps
- cordless drill
Step 3: Cut the pin
First, take a wooden pin and cut it to a length of about 12 cm. Then cut a groove in one of its ends, it will be for the string. A pin with a diameter of about 1.4 cm will work best because it fits well in the drill chuck.
Step 4: Creating the Tension Spring
Cordless drills are good because you can adjust the speed of their rotation. For safety, always use pliers - if the wire comes off, it can cut your hands.
Secure the drill to the table with clamps. One hand rests on the power button of the drill, and the other clamps the pliers. Turn the drill as much as you need until you get required amount turns. While winding, keep the cord energized and the spring will turn better.
Step 5: Bending the String
After winding, I bent the remaining tips with pliers and got a tension spring. By experimenting, you can achieve different sizes of eyelets.
Step 6: Squeeze
It will require a longer pin, in which a groove will also be cut. While winding, measure the distance between the turns by eye. This will require you to practice, but the activity is actually very entertaining.
When the spring was ready, I ran a test (see last photo). I placed it on a pin, pressed down on it with a small wooden block and quickly let go - the bar shot up to the ceiling.
Step 7: Tapered
Conical is done with a drill and a belt grinder.
Using the same winding technique, I seated the string in a groove on the pin. When the spring was completely wound, I cut off its ends, and the conical spring was ready. I did it twice, and the second option came out better.
Step 8: Torsion
For the manufacture of the torsion bar, I used a brass rod, since the wooden pin could not withstand the load and broke. To create a spring, make several turns and leave a straight section of string at both ends. By bending the ends of the string, you will create a good torsion spring.
Step 9: Conclusion
In the photos you see a compressive and a set of various springs that I made at home.
I hope making will be an easy task for you and will help you to make a lot of interesting projects. If you use them constantly, then it will also save you money.
Hi all brains! It's good if the springs you need for your projects can be bought at the store, but even then, how many should you have in stock, and what size and type? In addition, store-bought springs are sometimes suitable, and sometimes it is very difficult to find the right one, so it would be nice to learn how to make them. do it yourself and this article will help with that!
Making springs, although it seems something frightening, but having the basic tools at hand and simple knowledge of any do-it-yourselfer can make them. In this guide I will tell you how to make some springs, first the easy way, and then with the help of a more diverse tool, but also not difficult.
Step 1: Spring Types
The photo shows several types of springs, which I will show you how to make.
On the left is the extension spring, then the compression spring, the conical spring, and the torsion spring.
Step 2: Basic Method
In the first and most easy way creation brainsprings tools and materials shown in the photo are used. Using them, you can safely make a wide variety of springs, and these are:
- wooden stick with a diameter of 1.2cm
- piano string
- pliers with an "option" to cut off the wire
- hacksaw
- clamp
- screwdriver
Step 3: Preparing the Wooden Stick
From wooden stick we cut off a part about 13 cm long, and at one of the ends we make a slot into which the string will be inserted. A stick with a diameter of 1.2 cm is good for this, as it fits perfectly into the screwdriver's chuck. Lesser's wand brain diameter will not fit - it will not be able to hold the piano string.
Step 4: Making the Tension Spring
For our purposes, a screwdriver is better than a drill, because you can control the speed of rotation. Always use pliers for safety, as the string can spring back and injure you!
First, we fasten the screwdriver to the workbench with a clamp, then with one hand we control the power button of the screwdriver, and with the other we hold brain pliers, wind the coils of the spring, as much as you need. While feeding the string, we tighten it tightly, so the spring will turn out to be of better quality.
Step 5: Curl the Ends
Having wound the spring, with the help of pliers we bend its ends and get the finished extension spring. By experimenting in this way, springs of various sizes can be obtained.
Step 6: Compression Spring
To create this type of spring, you will need a longer stick, but also with a slot at the end. When winding it between the turns, it is necessary to keep a certain distance, which is controlled “by eye”, you may have to practice a little to get a high-quality spring, but brain activity it's pretty interesting.
Having made such a spring, I tried it out - I put it on a wooden rod, and placed a small block on top. When I pressed it and released it, the block “bullet” flew up to the ceiling.
Step 7: Conical Spring
A conical stick can be made with a screwdriver and a grinder.
Applying all the same brain technology, the string is threaded into the slot of the cone-shaped stick, and then the winding takes place. After the spring is wound, its ends are cut off, and that's it, the conical spring is ready.
To get a quality spring cone, I wound two of these, and the second turned out better.
Step 8: Torsion Spring
To create this spring, I was forced to use a slotted brass rod, as the wooden one did not hold up.
To make a torsion spring, it is enough to wind several coils at the distance you need between them. After that, slightly bending the ends, you will get a finished torsion spring.
Step 9: Finally
The photo shows a compression spring that I made using a brass rod, and a few others, in different sizes.
I think that this brain technology making springs is not difficult, and I hope you will find it useful in your homemade. In addition, it will help save money if you need a lot of springs.
Thank you for your attention and good luck brain-building!
Hello DIYers, as well as summer residents and gardeners!
Just now the time has come spring pruning garden trees and shrubs. In this case, of course, it is impossible to do without a garden pruner. But, as you know, pruners (as well as many other tools) need periodic disassembly for sharpening, lubrication, etc.
So this spring I decided to disassemble my secateurs in order to sharpen, lubricate and adjust it, because over the previous few years of work it had become dull and loose a little.
I must say that my secateurs are German, very good quality. I bought it 7-8 years ago, and since then, it has served me well. Moreover, I disassembled it during this time only once, in order to sharpen and lubricate with thick grease.
However, as far as I remember, even then, during the first disassembly of the pruner, I encountered the problem of unscrewing and tightening the screw on its working axis.
The fact is that usually the axis on the secateurs is made in the form of a rod or a bolt with a thread at the end, on which, in turn, a nut is screwed. Secateurs with this design are very convenient to disassemble and adjust, because for this you just need to unscrew or tighten the nut with an ordinary open-end wrench.
However, on my German secateurs, the axis is made in the form of a hollow sleeve with an M5 screw wrapped in it, which, in fact, fixes the axis and the entire assembly. At the same time, slots are made on the head of the screw to unscrew it (as on a conventional screw) for a Phillips screwdriver.
However, splines in this design are very unreliable. And, to be honest, I don’t understand why the German designers didn’t make a turnkey hexagon head in this case. It would be much more practical and reliable.
As a result, when I started to disassemble my pruner for the second time and tried to unscrew the screw with a Phillips screwdriver, the slots began to deform and break.
As a result, to unscrew the screw, I had to use pliers.
Naturally, after I disassembled the secateurs in this way, I faced the problem of repairing or refining the screw head so that in the future it would be possible to operate the secateurs normally.
And then I decided to go the easy way and just grind the screw head on both sides so that it can be unscrewed and tightened with an ordinary wrench.
For this I needed: an electric grinder, pliers, and also wrench by 7 mm.
To make it easier to hold the screw during processing, I screwed it back into the sleeve, as if into a kind of mandrel.
And then, holding this sleeve in pliers, he turned the head of the screw on both sides on a grinding wheel.
And here's what I got!
As you can see, the head of the screw now fits the 7mm wrench perfectly.
After that, I just had to carefully wipe all the details of the secateurs, clean it of old grease and sharpen its cutting parts.
I will not describe the sharpening of the secateurs here, since there are many videos on YouTube about this, and whoever needs it can find it and see it in detail there.
Then I assembled the secateurs, after lubricating its axis and rubbing surfaces.
At the same time, under the screw head, I additionally placed a washer from the M5 bolt for reliability.
After assembly, I just had to tighten the screw head with a wrench.
Most often, the question of how to make a spring yourself, using available tools for this, does not arise. However, there are situations when the springs of the required diameter are not at hand. It is in such cases that there is a need to make this element with your own hands.
Of course, springs for critical mechanisms operating in intensive mode are best made in production conditions, where it is possible not only to choose the right one, but also to comply with all parameters. technological process. If you need a non-standard spring for use in a mechanism that will be operated in a gentle mode, then you can make it at home.
What will be required
To make a spring with your own hands, prepare the following Consumables and equipment:
- steel wire, the diameter of which must correspond to the size of the cross-section of the turns of your future spring product;
- usual gas burner;
- a tool that every locksmith shop must have;
- metalwork vice;
- an oven, which can also be used as a heating device for domestic purposes.
The wire, if its diameter does not exceed 2 mm, can not be subjected to preliminary heat treatment, since it is easy to bend without it. Before winding such a wire on a mandrel of the required diameter, it must be straightened and carefully aligned along the entire length of the winding.
When choosing the diameter of the mandrel, you should consider the size of the spring that you are going to make at home. To compensate for the elastic deformation of the wire, the diameter of the mandrel is chosen somewhat smaller than the required size of the internal cross section of the future product.
In the event that the diameter of the wire from which you are going to make a spring with your own hands is more than 2 mm, it must first be annealed, since without such a procedure it will be difficult to align it and wind it onto the mandrel.
Step-by-step instruction
Step 1The first thing to do if you are going to make a spring with your own hands is to choose the material for such a product. Optimal material in this case, there is another spring (the main thing is that the diameter of the wire from which it is made corresponds to the cross section of the coils of the spring that you need to make).
Annealing the wire for the spring, as mentioned above, will allow you to make it more ductile, and you can easily align it and wind it around the mandrel. To perform such a procedure, it is best to use a special oven, but if one is not at your disposal, then you can use any other device that melts wood.
In such a stove, it is necessary to kindle birch firewood and, when it burns down to coals, put a spring in them, the wire from which you are going to use. After the spring is red-hot, the coals must be moved to the side and the heated product should be allowed to cool along with the stove. After cooling, the wire will become much more plastic, and you can easily work with it at home.
Step 3
The wire that has become soft should be carefully aligned and wound onto a mandrel of the required diameter. When performing this procedure, it is important to ensure that the turns are located close to each other. If you have never wound springs before, you can preview the tutorial video, which is easy to find on the Internet.
Step 4
In order for your new spring to have the required elasticity, it must be hardened. Heat treatment such as hardening will make the material harder and stronger. To perform hardening, the finished spring must be heated to a temperature of 830–870 °, for which a gas burner can be used. You can be guided by the fact that the required hardening temperature has been reached by the color of the red-hot spring: it should turn light red. To accurately determine this color, also focus on the video. After heating to the required temperature, the spring must be cooled in transformer or spindle oil.
