Well      06/20/2020

Making facade tiles with your own hands: step by step instructions. Concrete tiles for facade cladding: an economical option with good quality Do-it-yourself clinker tiles

Good afternoon, dear users of our site. This article will focus on concrete tiles, which you can make with your own hands and decorate your fence with it in the future. Below is a technological illustrated map, with the help of which you will learn this useful skill.

Initially, you will need to get a special tool and fixtures. The most important device is plastic molds(photo1). You can buy them in a specialized store. The second important point is the presence of a vibrating table (photo2). You can either buy it or make it yourself. Now we will not dwell on this. The second thing you need is a heating bath. It is done extremely simply: any metal trough is taken. A metal mesh is laid on its bottom. After the container is filled with water. On the net directly into the water is placed conventional boiler(it is desirable to use more powerfully). Do not forget to make grounding from the body of the metal trough. With regard to materials, the specific components required are: plasticizer, mold release agent. What it is and why it is used, you will learn a little later. As for lubrication: any lube with a light, oily consistency will do.

So, the process of making tiles on initial stage provides for the preparation of forms. Your task is to clean the front plastic surface from dust and dirt. Also, the front surface is covered with grease. This is necessary so that in the future the form easily lags behind the concrete product. In addition, the presence of lubrication allows you to achieve smooth surface on the finished product. After applying a layer of grease with a brush, it must be removed with a rag. Only a thin film of lubricant remains on the form, which is what we need.

When the preparatory work with the forms is completed, we proceed to the next step: we lay out the forms on the vibrating table (photo 3). After that, you can start kneading concrete mortar. The ingredients for the mixture are standard: water, cement and sand. However, it is important to add a plasticizer as well. This substance has an oily structure, a pungent odor and a black color. Thanks to the plasticizer, concrete gains strength faster, and also becomes more plastic, which prolongs the life of products made from it. Filling the form is carried out according to a single-layer system. The ratio of cement and sand is 1:2 (1 cement, 2 sand). The concrete to be mixed should have approximately the same consistency as in the photo below (photo 4).


In the third step, we fill out the forms with the finished solution. Then we turn on the vibrating table so that the concrete is properly compacted and fills all the grooves (photo5). Excess solution in the form is removed with a trowel. Upon completion of these works, the molds are placed in a warm, non-humid room for drying for about 17-18 hours (photo 6).


To get the tile out of the mold, it should be preheated in the bath. Thanks to this method of removing the product from the mold, the edges do not break off, the speed of the process increases significantly.

How the finished frozen product looks like can be seen in the photo below (photo7) (photo8) (photo9).



When you have made enough tiles and given them right time to gain concrete strength, you can start facing the fence. concrete tiles is attached to the base in the same way as any other tile: on tile adhesive. The seams between the products are filled with a fugue. By attaching the tile to the fence, you can paint it. It is best to use a spray gun for these purposes.

The finished painted tile on the fence looks like this:

After reading this article, you may get the impression that independent production concrete tile is an expensive unjustified process. In fact, this is not the case, since a person, using this technology, not only saves material resources, but also receives a product that is not only inferior in quality, but even surpasses what can now be purchased in stores. Also, such a tile has an order of magnitude higher service life, especially when compared with dry-pressed products.

Video:

Good luck in all your endeavors!

The tile is a versatile material, which can be used to carry out facing work, betraying the beauty of the house and providing long term operation.

Often, when it comes to tiles, they are used to ordering a product from manufacturing companies or buying it in hardware stores.

However, there is a way to make tiles yourself, while it is possible to create your own kind of tile.

To do this, you just need to make a form and a quality solution.

It is better to consider this issue in detail in order to make high quality tiles.

Facade tiles

Facade tiles are mainly used in the event that it is not possible to carry out facing work using bricks. For a tile, the bearing function is not typical, and when a wall is erected, such material is not involved in the installation. Facing is carried out after the wall has been erected.

In thickness basically the front tile is issued 14 mm. Given this thickness parameter, the method of wall cladding using this material can be called gluing. For reliable fastening with the wall surface, a special adhesive is applied to the tile. adhesive composition. Using tiles, you can clad not only the outside of the building, but also the inside.

From the variety of tiles, the following can be distinguished:

  1. Clinker. Possesses high level density, has a wide variety of geometric shapes in which it is produced.
  2. Ceramic granite. Became quite popular last years. The shape in which it can often be seen is a square or rectangle. Possesses enough large sizes, thanks to this, it is not only profitable to use, but also convenient, since installation with the help is simple and does not take much time.
  3. Polymer sand. The main purpose of this type of material is decoration. Due to this type of tiled material, a wide variety of design ideas can be realized.

There are also less popular types, such as:

  • ceramic;
  • basement;
  • under a stone;
  • under the brick;
  • basement.

Production process

Before embarking on the process of creating tiles for facade cladding, it is best to have an idea of ​​​​what the process is.

The temperature regime at which it is necessary to carry out all manufacturing work should be in the range from plus 15 to plus 30 degrees Celsius. The temperature regime must be observed in order to ensure the highest quality process of solidification of the solution. In addition, the work requires the use of protective clothing and devices, be sure to wear goggles for protection and gloves.

The room in which the work is carried out must be constantly ventilated. The first thing that the process of creating tiles requires is the manufacture of molds. They are installed on a vibrating table or on any flat hard surface.

They are lubricated with a small amount vegetable oil or liquid soap. This allows you to easily separate the finished product from the mold in the future.. A solution made according to a special recipe is poured into molds and left for the required period of time until the moment of complete hardening.

Forms for facade tiles

One of the highlights in the process of creating tiles or artificial stone for facade cladding is the shape. This fixture is made from ABS plastic.

This material is the most widely used among others, but silicone, polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane can be used for such purposes. These materials are able to provide a quality result that will have the desired degree of haze or be glossy on the surface.

As for the molds made of PVC or plastic, they are convenient to use, because they do not need lubrication and steaming, since the mixture that is poured into them from concrete is not able to stick.

A good option with regards to the material from which molds can be made is polyurethane. It has good strength and durability. If the form is made of polyurethane, then it can be used quite long time, having made with its help 1000 and more tiles. In addition, this form gives the tile a glossy perfect surface:

There is a wide variety of types of shapes that are used to create facade tiles.

Among the main ones are:

  • limestone ore;
  • marble;
  • faceted limestone;
  • cliff;
  • dolomite.

By creating tiles on your own, you can make a shape that does not look like any of those listed. Thus, the lined facade of the building will be one and only of its kind.

Manufacturing process

The whole process that you need to complete in order to create a facade tile with your own hands can be divided into several stages.

Such as:

  • creating forms;
  • solution preparation;
  • final stage;
  • direct receipt of the finished product.

Making molds from polyurethane

Initially, you need to decide on appearance tiles to be made. In addition, you need to determine all the parameters of its dimensions. . It is very important to correctly make its front surface. For simplicity, you can use finished goods from natural stone, which must be imitated.

In order to make a mold, you need to use a two-component polyurethane casting compound. Such solutions have the necessary level of performance characteristics that remain with the finished product.

The whole process can be represented as follows:

  1. For the base, you can use a piece of plexiglass, the size of which is slightly larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stone. It should be attached front side up.
  2. After that, it is necessary to measure the level at which the sample exceeds the stone and draw a contour for the construction of future formwork. The height of the formwork should exceed the sample by 2 cm.
  3. The stone, removed from the base, using silicone sealant, is attached to the plexiglass, adhering to the applied contour on the formwork.
  4. After the mortar has been poured into the formwork for the form, it is necessary to wait a while for solidification. It often takes 24 hours for such a process.

Solution

The solutions that are used to make tiles with your own hands are very diverse.

In this case, an example of the most popular solution based on cement is given.:

  • it is necessary to pour 1 part of sand and 0.5 of water into a container suitable for mixing the solution. It is necessary to mix the composition for 1 minute;
  • after that, cement (2 parts) and water (1 part) must be added to the resulting mass. Mix everything thoroughly;

NOTE!

The consistency of the solution after mixing should be similar to the solution intended for modeling. It is impossible for the mass to be liquid.

  • when the desired consistency has been reached, a coloring pigment can be added. After stirring the composition for 2 minutes, we can assume that the solution for facade tiles is ready.

Unfolding into forms

The process of laying out the prepared solutions according to the forms must be carried out on a vibrating table, which must be turned on during the process. It is necessary to fill the forms with the composition in portions, for this you can use a trowel or a wide spatula.

The composition during the layout process must be subjected to vibration. This allows air to be removed from the mass.

After the mass has been spread over all the forms, it is necessary to additionally level the surface using a wide spatula. It is also necessary to remove the composition that got on the sides of the molds.

The last thing to do on this stage- this is to remove the filled containers with the composition in a drying cabinet or put them on a rack.

The duration of the period that is necessary for the tile to harden is two days. During this time, molds with a solution should not be touched..

After the specified period, you can begin to extract the finished tile from the molds. To do this, they are first dipped in water, the temperature of which is 40-60 degrees Celsius and left for 2-3 minutes. After the tile is removed from the water, the mold should separate well.

To facilitate the process, you can use a rubber mallet and lightly tap it on the mold surface..

Conclusion

Making facade tiles with your own hands is enough fascinating process. In addition to the fact that it is possible to make the most liked tile, which will imitate fake diamond or brick, you can significantly save money on repairs.

You can start the process of finishing the walls using hand-made tiles after 7-10 days. The quality of do-it-yourself tile material differs little from that offered on the construction market.

It consists of:

  • cement;
  • sand;







The tile is fastened to concrete surfaces or dowel-nails. Tiles are attached to log and plank walls and frames, as well as tiles made of timber, with self-tapping screws for wood.


Your choice, if you intend to mount the tiles with your own hands, it is best to stop on this particular method of cladding. Firstly, such a lining can imitate Various types stone and brickwork. However, unlike concrete facade tiles, it will be significantly cheaper, you can fix it quickly and easily, and the coating will look just as good.

  • plain;
  • iridescent;

Components for the production of concrete tiles

It consists of:

  • cement;
  • sand;
  • mineral powder - a substitute for cement from ash, ground slag, stone crushing waste, etc., introduced into concrete in the amount of 5-20% to give concrete special properties (heat resistance, various colors, etc.);
  • plasticizing additives - used to increase the mobility of the concrete mixture;
  • stabilizing additives - to prevent stratification of the concrete mixture;
  • water-retaining additives - to reduce water separation.


Technology for the manufacture of facade tiles from concrete

Vibrocasting is the main method of manufacturing facade concrete tiles with low porosity. cooked concrete mix placed in plastic molds mounted on a vibrating table and fully compacted by high frequency vibration. Then the plastic molds are transferred to the racks, covered plastic wrap to prevent moisture loss and kept for a day. Next, the finished tile is removed from plastic molds and transported to the warehouse.

Using this technology, it is possible to obtain tiles with both matte and glossy surfaces, without pores and other defects. The use of high-quality coloring pigments makes it possible to obtain tiles painted in saturated colors that do not lose their brightness for many years. You can get acquainted with the material about.

Advantages and disadvantages of facade tiles made of concrete

All building materials have both advantages and disadvantages.


The advantages of concrete tiles include:

  • the mass of facade tiles has a relatively low weight, which allows not only to reduce the load on the structure of the structure, but also makes it possible to implement exterior finishing on their own;
  • it is similar to a stone, not only visually, but the natural aging process of these materials is also practically indistinguishable externally;
  • since the surface of the tile is hard, it withstands the effects of precipitation well and is resistant to mechanical damage, i.e. will serve for a long time with its correct installation and timely maintenance;
  • for fixing concrete tiles, a special gasket layer is not needed, it can be mounted on walls made of various materials that adhere well to adhesives.
  • facade tiles made of concrete are cut with a simple chisel (cutter), although less labor costs and best result gives cutting circular saw.



However, concrete tiles also have disadvantages:

  • it is better not to use this tile in cold climates, since not all manufacturers guarantee the stability of its properties in the presence of freeze / thaw cycles;
  • sometimes, even during the normal production process, the edge of a concrete tile is uneven or an unnecessary edge is formed on its edges. And although they are easily removed with a circular saw or cutter, installation labor costs increase.


Dry method of installation of facade tiles made of concrete

Important! The dry method is intended for tiling brick, concrete and wooden surfaces without the use of any adhesives and solutions. Among other things, the work described in this way can be performed at any time of the year.

The tile is attached to the surfaces of concrete or brick facades dowel-nails. Tiles are attached to log and plank walls and frames, as well as tiles made of timber, with self-tapping screws for wood.


Your choice, if you intend to mount the tiles with your own hands, it is best to stop on this particular method of cladding. Firstly, such cladding can imitate various types of masonry and brickwork. However, unlike facing bricks, concrete facade tiles will be significantly cheaper, you can fix them quickly and easily, and the coating will look just as good.

The coloring of facade concrete tiles for dry laying is carried out during its manufacture. In this case, the product is stained completely in its volume, and not only on the outer surfaces. Therefore, fading of concrete colored tiles under the influence of ultraviolet radiation is excluded.

The colors of such a tile can be almost any:

  • plain;
  • iridescent;
  • imitating the surface of granite, marble, malachite, amber, etc.

Facade tile properties (video)

Wet method of installation of facade tiles made of concrete

To achieve good quality facade wall cladding, it is necessary that they be even. If there are irregularities, then the walls are recommended to be plastered.

The installation process includes the following steps:

  1. Before starting the installation of tiles, the surfaces of the facade walls and the back sides of the tiles should be moistened with water using a paint brush.
  2. The facade should be clad, starting from the plinth, which is the base of the facade walls of the house and creates a transition to the areas of the earth's surface adjacent to the house - the sidewalk, driveway, lawn. It is better to make the color of the plinth cladding darker than that of the wall cladding, then it will look more monumental. In order to maintain the same level along the entire perimeter of the house, facing the basement, a starting bar is nailed to the bottom of the basement, strictly set according to the level (preferably laser). It is on the starting bar that the first row of tiles is laid out. Mount the tiles starting from the corners from the bottom up.
  3. To apply a layer of tile adhesive of 0.5 cm to the surface of the walls, use a smooth spatula. Next, the glue is leveled with a notched trowel with teeth 4-6 mm high.
  4. On the back side of the tiles, a layer of glue of 0.4 - 0.6 cm is applied with a notched trowel.
  5. Next, with gentle movements with turns, the tiles are pressed against the surface of the wall until the adhesive protrudes at the tile joints.

Proper and professional wall cladding will significantly extend the life of the facade of the house. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of facade tiles, study the technology of this work, but rather see it with your own eyes or at least on a video on the Internet.

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Facade cladding with tiles successfully competes with painting, so the demand for durable, aesthetic facade tiles is high. Based on demand, manufacturers offer different kinds high-quality cladding, differing in the material of manufacture, format and color, but the material you like is not always affordable. In this situation, it is possible to reduce the cost of finishing the facade by making facade tiles with your own hands.


You don't need a lot of space to make tiles.

The choice of molds for casting tiles

In the conditions of the enterprise, facade tiles are made in ways, of which only one is suitable for home conditions - vibration casting. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the prices for high-quality molds are quite high, the turnover of molds for casting facade tiles is up to 1500 cycles, so buying them for manufacturing 5-10 square meters finishing doesn't make sense. But, if the amount of work on facing is significant, the cost of buying molds or making them yourself from polymeric materials will give significant savings. Money.

The use of primitive home-made molds from improvised materials when casting, although it is a less expensive option for performing work, does not guarantee the aesthetics of the finish.

Silicone molds can withstand a huge number of castings

Molds for casting tiles according to the material of manufacture are divided into 3 types:

  • silicone;
  • plastic;
  • polyurethane.

Of the listed types, polyurethane molds are suitable for the manufacture of facade tiles at home, since silicone molds are fragile, and products from plastic molds, due to their glossy surface, are unlike natural stone.

The process of manufacturing facade tiles by vibrocasting consists of the following steps:

  1. Form making.
  2. Solution preparation.
  3. Pouring solution into moulds.
  4. Extraction of products.

Let's consider these stages in more detail.

Making a wood tile mold is the easiest way

Production of polyurethane molds for facade tiles

First of all, you need to decide what kind of tiles the facade will be finished with, think over its dimensions, format and configuration of the front surface. rational decision there will be a temporary borrowing in a professional workshop of several samples of products made of natural stone, which it was decided to imitate. These samples will be used as matrices in the manufacture of do-it-yourself molds.

Molds for making polyurethane tiles

Mold making material

For the manufacture of the molds themselves, it is necessary to purchase a two-component polyurethane casting compound, for example, Nomacon-TM KPTD-1, Formosil or Poly. These compositions, prepared in the right proportions with a hardener and poured into the formwork, turn into a durable elastic product that is resistant to mechanical damage, vibration, chemicals, low temperatures and humidity.

Formwork manufacturing and matrix installation

As a base for the formwork, a piece of Plexiglas is used a little larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stone and the sample is placed on it with the face up. The excess of the stone above the level of the base is measured and around the sample at a distance of 2-3 cm, the contour of the future formwork is applied with a marker.

The stone is removed from the base and silicone sealant“For aquariums” a rectangular formwork made by hand from the same plexiglass is attached to the plexiglass along the applied contour. The height of the formwork should be 1.5-2 cm more than the height of the sample. Then the sample is put in place, the joint of the stone with the base is covered with the same silicone and the product is allowed to dry for a day.

Mold for pouring fence slabs

If the sample material has a high porosity, then its surface is covered with a thin layer of a solution of paraffin in kerosene or white spirit in a ratio of 1: 2, which will act as a release agent and facilitate the removal of the matrix from the hardened polyurethane mass. The separator needs an hour to dry.

Preparation of a solution for pouring

After the glue has dried, the preparation of the polyurethane mass for pouring begins.

In two separate dry and clean containers, they are poured in the right proportion required quantities polymer and hardener. Then they are poured into a third dry and clean container and thoroughly mixed with their own hands, touching the walls of the container.

When working with the components of the compound, protective clothing, gloves and goggles should be used, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution comes into contact with the skin, wash it off immediately. running water With detergent!


Before pouring the formwork with the compound, it is necessary to cover the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane with a dry brush to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the sample surface when the bulk of the mixture is applied.

One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer is started from the lower corner, simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. With a horizontal position of the base, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the upper point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.

The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which they begin to extract the matrix.

Matrix extraction

A day after pouring, the formwork is dismantled, cutting the places of gluing with silicone with a clerical knife. The matrix in polyurethane is turned upside down and the degree of curing of the polymer is evaluated, since it may take up to three days for the final solidification. If the compound is not completely frozen, the stone is left in it until the solution is completely fixed.

Several matrices can be made at the same time to make tiles of different shapes

The frozen polyurethane mold is carefully separated from the surface of the matrix with your own hands, trying not to damage the surface texture, which repeats the structure of the stone.

So that the facade decoration is not primitive or monotonous, it is necessary to make at least 5 forms using different matrices.

Preparation of mortar for molding tiles

There are many recipes for preparing a solution, but cement-based formulations are widely used. For the manufacture of the main component for pouring into molds, the following technology can serve:

2 parts of sand are mixed with one part of water for 1-2 minutes, after which 4 parts of cement and 2 parts of water are added and mixed for 2-3 minutes. Then, 8 parts of sand and one part of water are gradually added to the solution and mixed, after which a dye is added to the mixture in an amount of not more than 4-5% of the total volume of the batch. Usage white cement M500 instead of the usual gray Portland cement will allow you to get a tile of more saturated colors.


In the manufacture of facade tiles with their own hands, fillers from small chips of natural stone (granite, marble, limestone) are also used, which increase the strength characteristics of products and the similarity with the finish natural stone. To do this, out of 8 parts of sand during kneading, 4 parts are replaced with crumbs.

Facade tile molding

The molds are placed on a working vibrating table and filled with a ready-made solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the composition of the solution does not include fillers from natural crumbs and dye, then the pigment is first introduced into the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to get a tile with a front surface evenly colored to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Given the high cost of the vibrating table and the laboriousness of making it yourself, you can do without it when molding tiles. If a sheet of steel or chipboard (chipboard) is installed on two supports, and polyurethane molds are placed on it, then the mixture in the molds can be compacted by tapping on the sheet from below with a hammer.

After compaction of the form, trying not to deform, they transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.

Exposure of forms and products to direct sunlight and high temperatures is unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tile and the turnover of polyurethane forms.

Removing products from molds

For the correct extraction of the cliche with the product for several minutes to increase the elasticity of the polymer, they are placed in a container with water at a temperature of 40-60 degrees. The tile is removed by hand, tapping on the polyurethane with a rubber mallet, and until fully cured, it is laid in one layer in a cool place for 7-10 days.

Conclusion

With significant volumes finishing works this technology gives significant cost savings, and the quality of hand-made facing material, although inferior to industrial designs, is quite high.

Clinker tiles for the facade have the highest physical performance among all types building materials. The main advantages are:


But there is also flaws. The first is high cost. The price of clinker tiles, depending on the brand, can be several times higher than the cost of ceramic tiles. The second disadvantage is fragility. By their own physical characteristics clinker resembles glass, it has the same fragility. It is difficult to cut, the cut often has chips. In addition, as a result of sharp impacts, the material cracks.

Excellent performance is obtained due to a special production technology, unlike other clay building materials, clinker is fired at very high temperatures(not less than +1300°С). Under these conditions, clay and brick melt and turn into a glassy mass. The mineral dyes used give color, and special pressing molds change the structure of the front surfaces. During production, the technology must be followed exactly, otherwise the tile is deformed, the linear dimensions are violated, and the quality is significantly reduced. Production can be carried out only by reputable companies that have not only the most modern mechanisms and equipment, but also responsible highly qualified specialists in various specialties.

Before you buy a tile, you should decide on its characteristics. What to pay attention to?

OptionsSelection Tips
PriceThe price of clinker tiles can reach 4000 rubles / m2. and more. Don't buy too much cheap material, it is better to focus on the average range. For elite buildings, purchase the most expensive products. Unfortunately, the price does not always correspond to the quality; in the building materials market, you can find goods with a high cost, but also of unsatisfactory quality.
ManufacturerThe best optionimport manufacturers. Domestic companies, unfortunately, do not always meet the quality requirements. Buy goods only from time-tested and numerous consumer brands.
The texture of the front surfaceThe more complex the texture, the better the facade looks. But it must be borne in mind that clinker tiles with such a texture require highly qualified craftsmen and additional costs for maintaining the facade of the building.
ColorUniversal advice - the color should be in harmony with general view building. This applies not only to design, but also architectural features buildings. Few own experience– consult with experienced architects or designers.

At the same time as the tiles, choose glue and grout. The adhesive must be frost-resistant and withstand at least 50 freeze/freeze cycles. Clinker tiles are a very expensive material; you should not allow unpleasant situations due to poor-quality glue, which subsequently cause the need for repairs.

As for the grouts. All of them must necessarily compensate for the thermal expansion of the tile. The clinker is very brittle, with increasing loads it can crack. There are no universal recommendations for the color; the grout in each case should emphasize the beauty of the finish.

Laying clinker tiles

Exact adherence to existing technologies guarantees the quality and long-term operation of the finish. Do not try to speed up work by skipping individual operations, such actions will have bad consequences.

Step 1. Surface preparation. They must be smooth, dry and clean. Leveling should be done carefully, avoiding large differences in height. The fact is that the adhesive under the tile must be applied with a comb spatula, this is the only way to ensure reliable adhesion. A comb spatula only works on flat surfaces. The best option for laying tiles on plastered surfaces.

Step 2 Determination of the number of tiles.

The algorithm of work depends on the type of tile. If there are special corner elements in the kit, then their number is calculated separately. Next, determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall and give a small margin. For ordinary ceramic tiles, the margin is within 10%; for clinker tiles, the margin is reduced due to the high cost. You will have to work very carefully, to minimize the amount of loss of expensive material.

Step 3 Preparation of materials and tools. To work, you will need special glue and grout. From tools spatula, tape measure, level, rope with blue (chopping thread), electric mixer. We have already mentioned above that all materials must be of high quality, in terms of performance they must correspond to the weight and dimensions of the clinker tiles and climate zone residence.

Step 4 Markup. A very important point, the consumption of tiles, the speed and quality of facing works depend on the thoroughness of the marking. How to markup?

  1. Start marking the facade walls with window and doorways, in these places most often there are problems. Using a level and a pencil or felt-tip pen, mark the position of the beginning of the row above the jumpers. Check the position of the windows with a level, if they are not on the same line, then the lower edge of the first row of one of them will have to be cut a little. Beat off the line above the windows.
  2. Measure the distance from the windows to the first row of tiles, taking into account the thickness of the joints. Take accurate measurements, do not allow errors of more than a few millimeters.
  3. Beat off the lowest line on the wall of the house, taking into account the previously made markings above the openings. Check its position again. For measuring horizontality, it is better to use a water or laser level, an ordinary building on a long wall length can make significant errors.
  4. If you have special elements for finishing corners, check their location and calculate how many tiles will go in length from one corner to the second. This is necessary in order to make the cutting point along the length of the tile invisible. The longer the length facade wall, the more carefully markup, take into account the number of corners and bends of the surface. The facade walls of prestigious buildings have original architectural elements; it is quite difficult to tile them.
  5. To constantly control the position of the tiles on the wall, beat off parallel lines at a distance of three or four rows, taking into account the thickness of the seam. Such lines greatly facilitate the finishing process and exclude the appearance of marriage. Remember that correcting mistakes is always much more difficult than preventing them.

Step 5 Fasten the mounting rail along the edge of the bottom line of the first row of tiles, it will keep the material from slipping until the adhesive has firmly set. The rail to the wall can be fixed with special fixtures or ordinary dowels. The holes from the fixation points are then sealed.

Step 6 Prepare the adhesive solution. Be sure to first pour water into the container, and only then pour dry glue. Read the instructions carefully, pour only the required amount of water. We have already discussed this topic above.

Practical advice. To inexperienced craftsmen, at first it may seem that the solution is very thick. Don't pour water right away! Keep stirring it, after a few minutes it will become thinner.

After the first mixing, leave the solution for 4-6 minutes to infuse. During this time, the remaining dry lumps of powder will absorb water and break easily when re-mixed.

Step 7 Laying starts at the corners of the bottom row. Prepare the workplace, remove construction debris and objects that interfere with work. If needed later scaffolding, but you need to check their completeness and prepare for installation. When installing scaffolding safety regulations must be followed.

Apply glue to the wall, press it with sufficient force.

To eliminate gaps, pass the comb trowel with glue over one place at least twice in perpendicular directions, gradually reducing its angle of inclination.

Very important. The amount of glue applied should correspond to the productivity of your work. Process first small areas, over time, experience will appear, the work will go faster.

There are two ways to lay clinker tiles: one row along the entire length of the facade wall or three or four rows in small sections. The first method reduces the probability of errors, but increases the time. If you work slowly, you will only have to apply the adhesive across the width of one tile, which is very inconvenient and time consuming. In addition, it is likely that before the second row is laid, the adhesive will already harden, it will have to be removed with a flat spatula, and this is a loss of material. Another problem is that it is difficult to apply glue with a spatula at the edge of the tile, this technology takes much more time. And the last thing - during such an application, a solution will definitely get on the surface, it will have to be removed - even more time is lost. But we cannot give definitive advice on exactly how to lay the tiles, it all depends on your practical skills. How much time is left is written on the packaging of the glue, and how much during this period you can glue the tiles is up to you.

Step 8 To improve bonding, be sure to coat the tiles with glue with reverse side. The thickness of the adhesive is within millimeters. The fact is that the clinker almost does not absorb moisture, and this significantly reduces the adhesion coefficient. Smearing the reverse side minimizes the negative effect of low water absorption.

Step 9 Use crosses between tiles. The recommended width of the crosses is 10–14 mm, which is much larger than when laying ordinary tiles.

Continue laying the tiles over the entire surface of the facade wall, periodically remove the crosses from the lower rows and use them for the upper ones.

Prices for clinker facade tiles

Clinker facade tiles

Processing of window and door openings

Proceed to them only after the experience of laying tiles on even facade walls has appeared.

Step 1. Lay the tiles on the windowsill. The rows must exactly match those laid on the wall. The surface of the window sills should be flat and sloped to drain water.

Step 2 Protect finished horizontal parts of window sills from dirt. You can simply stick newspaper or a piece of plastic wrap with construction tape.

Step 3 Try on the tile to the side surfaces of the windowsill. As a rule, they have different widths at the top and bottom, this discrepancy should be eliminated only at the expense of the top and bottom tiles. They will need to be cut at an angle.

Step 4 Using a level, draw a horizontal line on the side window sills, measure the dimensions of the remaining triangles. The extreme tiles are cut off on them.

Step 5 The aesthetics of the facade is greatly influenced by the junction of the lines of joints over the entire surface, pay due attention to this factor. After you have laid the first two corner tiles on opposite vertical slopes of the window opening, check their position with a level. They must lie on one strictly horizontal line.

Step 6 Glue all the tiles on the slopes in turn, periodically check their position.

Step 7 Upon completion of work on vertical slopes, proceed to laying tiles on the upper horizontal. The marking and sizing of the corner tiles is carried out according to the same algorithm as for the side vertical tiles. Laying technology requires increased attention. Check the condition of the adhesive, it must securely hold the tile until it is completely cured.

Features of cutting clinker tiles

The best option is to cut the clinker tiles professional machine with diamond blade and water cooling. So you can get a perfectly flat cut surface and almost completely eliminate the risk of cracking or chipping. But such equipment is quite expensive, it is beneficial to purchase it only for professional craftsmen, for whom laying tiles is the main income, and not a pastime. If you do not have a machine, then you will have to cut the tiles with a circular grinder and a diamond disc.

Important. Diamond discs There are two types: for cutting concrete and ceramics. The disks are not interchangeable, it is forbidden to use them for other purposes. What are the differences between the drives? For cutting concrete, the plane of the discs has through slots to remove a large amount of dust; discs for tiles do not have such holes. They have only small depressions in the places where the diamond chips are applied. Slotted discs hit the tile hard, causing chipping. Always keep these differences in mind.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

How to cut clinker tiles with a grinder?

  1. Prepare a flat and stable stand and ruler. Draw a cut line on the tile, always exactly on both sides.
  2. Cut the tile along the line no more than half the thickness in one pass. Never try to cut immediately in one pass of the disk, it will definitely crack.
  3. Turn the tile upside down and cut it in the same way, only reduce the cutting depth even more.
  4. Place the incised part on the flat edge of the table and, with a sharp pressure on the edge of the tile, break it off along the cutting line. The more confident your movements are, the less risk you end up with a marriage.
  5. Very carefully trim the edge of the cut with a grinder. Tilt the disk at the maximum possible angle, do not press it hard, remove the bumps gradually.

Keep in mind that it is very difficult to cut a strip less than one centimeter wide from a clinker tile. To do this, you must have experience with electric tools and clinker. If the technology requires gluing such pieces, then be prepared for a large number marriage.

Video - Master class for cutting clinker terrace slabs

Video - How to quickly cut clinker tiles

Grouting

Has its own characteristics. After a slight hardening of the adhesive with a special thin spatula, remove from the joints and clean the surfaces from adhesive residue. Start grouting no earlier than three days after laying, otherwise the tile may undermine, it will have to be re-glued. Prepare the grout solution taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations, which brand to choose, we described above. By consistency, it should be semi-dry.

Put a little solution on a trowel or any flat surface, for embedding you need to have a long narrow tool across the width of the seams.

Lean the trowel against the wall, pick up small portions of the thick mortar with the tool and carefully seal the seams. Align their surfaces at the same time.

Practical advice. It is much faster to close up several rows of vertical seams first, and then horizontal ones. At the same time, remove the difference in height between them.

Prices for construction grout Ceresit Super

Construction grout Ceresit Super

This method of semi-dry grouting significantly reduces the contamination of the front surface of the clinker tiles. Finishing cleaning is done with an ordinary brush.

Overcasting a seam with a brush gives it
appropriate structure

If you have sufficient skills, then you don’t have to use a wet sponge, the work will be done neatly and beautifully. If not, then the problem areas will have to be wiped. But remember that the surface of the clinker tile is easy to get dirty, but difficult to clean. After drying, the spots will reappear, the procedure will have to be repeated several times.

Clinker tiles absorb no more than 4% moisture. Such properties put forward special requirements for the consistency of the adhesive - it should not be liquid. Ceramic tile absorbs a lot of moisture, liquid glue is not a problem for her. At the same time, the glue should not be very thick. Why? Firstly, its adhesion is significantly reduced both with bearing surfaces and with tiles. Secondly, the mixture quickly hardens, the laying process is much more complicated.

Adhesive that has got on the surface of the tile must be removed immediately. Special attention look for clinker with an uneven face. Don't wait for the glue to dry. The fact is that high-quality glue is then difficult to clean, it is very firmly attached to the texture. Use a clean damp sponge or cloth for cleaning.

Production technology allows for slight differences color shades in one batch of clinker tiles. To prevent the appearance of large areas with different colors on the facade, periodically take tiles from several packages. The facade will look beautiful, and some difference in shades will serve as an additional decoration. During the purchase, pay attention to the batch number, it is indicated on the package. If you need to purchase additional tiles in a few months, then there is a high probability that this batch will no longer be available.

It is not recommended to lay clinker tiles in very hot and windy weather. If it is not possible to wait for suitable conditions, then you can sprinkle the surface of the clinker tile a little on the reverse side with water. This will improve gluing, the reliability of fixation will increase.

Video - Technology for laying clinker tiles