Metal framework of a canopy under polycarbonate. How to make a canopy from polycarbonate: we equip a covered area for a summer residence. Canopy material and dimensions

Canopies made of polycarbonate can be used for a variety of needs. These are hinged canopies over the balcony and porch; covered parking for cars and agricultural machinery; covered passages between the house and the bathhouse, summer kitchen, sheds, etc.

This article will cover different types canopies to the house from polycarbonate, features of the choice of materials for the frame, calculations of buildings. Also you will find here step by step guide for the construction of a structure based on a metal profile.

Types, calculation and design of canopies, choice of frame material

The most popular options for polycarbonate visors and canopies are arched, cascading, single and double slope. All of them have their own advantages and disadvantages.

arched structures

Arched polycarbonate canopies in the yard are by far the most popular, especially for organizing parking lots and galleries between the house and outbuildings.

• The semicircular shape of the vault prevents snow from accumulating on the roof.
• When it rains, the water drains only on two sides.
• Due to the downward facing sides, the chance of the canopy being damaged by the wind is quite low.
• The arched design is equally well suited for a small canopy over the porch, and for a spacious parking lot for several cars.

The arched polycarbonate canopy has one drawback - if you make it yourself, you may face the problem of bending the profiles.

Arched canopy made of polycarbonate: the photo shows a covered parking lot

Cascade system

Cascading canopies are, in fact, a system of several arched ones. This design is chosen for installation above flights of stairs, where the slope of the roof is very large. And there are two reasons for that:

• In the rain from a solid arched roof, located at a large angle, water pours into the space in front of the first steps, falling on the incoming ones. With a cascading arrangement of roof elements, water goes to the sides.
• Aesthetic side of the issue. Several cascading arched polycarbonate awnings look much more interesting than one solid one pointing down.

The disadvantages of such a system are the complexity of the design, high time and material costs.

Arched polycarbonate canopy attached to the house: photo of a three-stage system

Shed roof

A shed polycarbonate canopy is the easiest option to build:

• Profile bending is not required, as is the case with arched roofs.
• No bending of polycarbonate sheets required. Accordingly, you are not limited in choosing the thickness of the roofing material.
• During construction, you can do without the use of trusses, it will be enough only longitudinal and transverse beams.

Shed structures are often used when attaching a canopy to the wall of a house or garage. The disadvantage is a slight slope of the roof, in winter snow will accumulate on it.

Polycarbonate wooden canopy: photo of a shed design

gable canopy

In construction, it is a little more complicated than a single-sided one, as it requires the reduction of two slopes at a certain angle. However, in operation, such a building is more convenient:

• The slopes lowered on two sides provide better protection against wind and precipitation compared to one slope.
• The angle of inclination of the roof here is greater, which means that in winter snow will accumulate on it less.
• The frame of the gable roof is rigid, thanks to which it resists wind loads well.

A double-slope polycarbonate canopy can be used for various purposes: for parking lots, barbecues, barbecue ovens, porches, pavilions between outbuildings.

Gable roof over barbecue

Calculation and design of polycarbonate canopies

Even at the stage of creating a project, before starting the calculation of a canopy made of polycarbonate from a profile pipe, you need to find out for yourself the following:

• The size and location of the future building.
• Wind and snow loads - these parameters affect the shape of the roof structure.
• The design of a private house and outbuildings - the choice of frame design and the color of polycarbonate sheets depends on this.
• Specifications of available/desired building materials.

Armed with this information, we proceed to the calculation and drawing up a drawing of a polycarbonate canopy. Here we already accurately indicate: the dimensions of the building and the shape of the roof; technical characteristics of the material of supports, frame and roof; the number and nature of fasteners.

Note:when determining the features of the frame structure, it must be taken into account that polycarbonate is produced in sheets of standard sizes. Their joints must necessarily fall on the transverse profiles - the crate.

How to make a polycarbonate canopy: the width of the runs between the profiles of the crate depends on the parameters of the roofing material

And now about the height of polycarbonate canopies. In principle, it can be anything - it all depends on your needs and wishes. However, for comfortable use of the building, it would be better if the lowest point of its roof is at least 180 cm above the ground.

The parameters of the support posts for the manufacture of canopies and canopies made of polycarbonate must be calculated based on the following numbers:

• The minimum section is 40x40 mm.
• The thickness of the metal is from 1 mm.
• The thickness of the foundation pillars must exceed the section of the pillars by at least 10 mm.
• The recommended depth of foundation pits is from 50 cm.
• For the sidewalls of roof trusses, a profile with a cross section of 20 mm or more is taken, for diagonal gratings - from 15 mm.

How to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands: the drawings must be very detailed

Note:it is better to entrust the design of structures with an area of ​​​​8 m 2 or more to specialists. The roof area here will be large, which means that here it will be necessary to accurately calculate the level of snow and wind loads. Mistakes can lead to deformation or collapse of the building.

Choosing a material for the frame

Typically, the following materials are taken for the manufacture of polycarbonate canopies:

• Metal profile. Durable, easy to install and easy to use. Care requires minimal - only timely treatment with anti-corrosion agents. Disadvantages - a large weight of the structure and high price.
• Metal pipes. The advantages are the same as the metal profile. The only thing is that the rounded shape in cross section is not so convenient for welding and other types of fasteners.
• Wood - profiled or ordinary timber, rounded log. Beautiful, lively material, suitable if the canopy should be stylized as something. When building a wooden canopy made of polycarbonate with your own hands, you will need certain skills in carpentry.

wooden frame

Building a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands

The longest part of the construction is the creation of the foundation. The frame itself and the fastening of roofing sheets to it will take, at most, one and a half working days.

Installation of support poles and installation of bindings

support poles install in the following way:

• We dig foundation pits - 50 cm deep and 30 cm in diameter.
• Inside we install a reinforcing cage.
• We fill the pits with a cement-sand (3/1) mixture, cover with cellophane and leave to harden for several days.
• We fasten the supports to the foundation with anchors.

Pole concreting

We tie the supports along the tops with a single beam, then the front part of the canopy will rest on it. This dressing is best done from a square or rectangular profile. The use of a round pipe is undesirable here, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontiguity of the elements during welding will be too small.

Polycarbonate canopy attached to the house: the photo shows the location of the front supports

Note:the binding of the canopy to the wall is carried out on a beam attached to the surface with anchor bolts. At the right height, referring to building level, mark the line along which the holes for the fasteners are then drilled. Next, we fasten the beam to the wall, tightening the bolts well.

We make a canopy to the house from polycarbonate: the photo shows the installation stage of the binding

We bend the profile for the roof frame

If the polycarbonate canopy will have arched roof, then we will have to think about how to bend the profiled pipe. This can be done in several ways:

• With a pipe bender. Such a device is expensive, and it does not make sense to buy it only because of the construction of a canopy.
• By sawing (6-8 mm) of the pipe and bending it in the opposite direction. The files are then closed with metal patches.
• Manual bending of a preheated profile. To prevent flattening of the pipe, sand is rammed inside before work.

Manual tube bending machine

Canopy frame welding

We start welding the frame with the assembly of roof trusses. This is done on the ground, with the obligatory use of the building level. We begin to weld diagonal slats on parallel profiles from the edges, gradually moving towards the center. The work will be greatly facilitated by magnets for welding - it is good to set the angles between the parts using them.

In the following video you can see how welding magnets are used.

Ready-made trusses for a canopy made of polycarbonate are set up for binding and on the support of the front. Spot bait, and then weld. All elements must stand strictly vertically, therefore, after baiting, we check the correct installation with a building level. If necessary, we slightly correct the location with a sledgehammer.

Canopy attached to the house, made of polycarbonate: photo of the installation of roof trusses

Across the roof trusses we cook runs from a thin profile of a rectangular section. The distance between the parts is made from 50 to 60 cm.

Installation of runs

Next, proceed to the installation of the sidewalls. We weld sections of the profile to the bases of the extreme trusses and fasten them along the entire length to the walls. We stretch and weld profiles of the same thickness from the lower edges of the segments to the ends of the trusses. we make a couple of transverse jumpers. You can see how it looks in the next photo. The frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of polycarbonate.

Sidewall work

Mounting cellular polycarbonate on the frame

And now about how to attach polycarbonate to the metal frame of the canopy. Installation is carried out using special fasteners- thermal washer. They consist of sealing and plastic washers, as well as plugs to them. All this is pulled together with ordinary self-tapping screws. Particular attention should be paid to three points:

• Strict verticality of screwing screws.
• Moderate tightening of fasteners. Insufficient will not ensure the proper quality of installation, and excessive can lead to damage to the surface of the material.
• From the cuts of the sheet to the borders of the hole for the self-tapping screw must be at least 4 cm.
• The hole for the self-tapping screw should be 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the latter.

Note:new polycarbonate sheets should not be left in the warm season under the sun. The adhesive on the protective film heats up and forms a very strong adhesion to the surface. As a result, it will be very difficult to remove the film.

How to properly fix polycarbonate on a canopy: you need to use special thermal washers

In addition to thermal washers, the following fittings are used in the process of installing polycarbonate:

• Removable profile. It is used to connect two sheets of material together. It consists of a base and a lid - the base is fastened with screws to the frame, and the lid is fastened to it with a special lock.
• End profile and perforated tape. They are used to finish cuts on polycarbonate sheets. First, a perforated tape is glued along their entire length, and then an end profile is fixed on it.

Note:the end profile is needed not only to complete the polycarbonate roof. This fitting protects the air channels of the sheets from moisture and dirt getting inside. This means that the preservation of the initial level of transparency of polycarbonate directly depends on it.

Additional fittings

Polycarbonate fully deserves the name of the Great Unknown. It is widely used to build light, durable and inexpensive shelters: a polycarbonate canopy can be seen everywhere from the center of Moscow to Taimyr, and in a polycarbonate canopy in the Arctic all year round harvest fruits and vegetables. In polycarbonate structures simple and inexpensive combination of high functionality with sophisticated aesthetics(see fig.) and at the same time, most of them for home use can be made with your own hands, having only basic working skills.

At the same time, widely available sources of information on the use of polycarbonate are informative somewhere at the level of instructions on how to put together a birdhouse. Indeed, slab cellular polycarbonate has remarkable properties and is easy to work with. But this apparent simplicity is based on a very complex scientific and technological basis.

The strength, reliability and durability of polycarbonate buildings cannot be increased by simply increasing the mass of material in the structure, like stone ones. And it is also impossible to build them using averaged-generalized parameters multiplied by "all-round" safety factors. It is necessary to keep within the limits of a certain optimum, otherwise the result may be the opposite. What is this optimum, how to get into it and stay there? This article is about this. In it, we will consider the questions:

• What is slab cellular polycarbonate as a material, what is good and bad about it, what allows and what cannot.
• How to work with polycarbonate.
• How to choose slabs for construction according to their size and structure.
• How simpler and cheaper, but quite reliable, to make all sorts of designs; primarily a carport made of polycarbonate. It must be absolutely reliable, because. the cost of a car is incomparable with that of a shelter for it.
• In what cases should preference be given to custom-made awnings, and when it makes sense to take on a home-made one.

polycarbonate as is

As a substance, polycarbonate is one of the types of organic glass, a transparent polymer, in the molecules-chains of which carbon atoms with organic radicals, CO carbon radicals and benzene rings regularly alternate. It was discovered by accident in Germany in 1898 while trying to improve the newly synthesized analgesic codeine. The first researchers drew attention to its good, better than silicate glass light transmission, heat resistance and high, over 250 kJ/sq. m, impact strength. Simply put, polycarbonate beats and pricks very badly, and outside the flame it self-extinguishes. Polycarbonate is also obtained in a simple way, as a result of a single-stage chemical reaction without catalysts, at normal temperature and pressure.

However, the production of the first, in the 30s of the last century, went into the production of plexiglass of a different origin, plexiglass and rhodoplex. The specific reaction of polycarbonate to ultraviolet radiation (UV, UV, ultraviolet) interfered. Under its action, the material not only quickly became cloudy, but also cracked, losing strength. industrial production Massive polycarbonate was first established only in 1953, also in Germany.

The "polycarbonate revolution" took place in the mid-70s in Israel. They feverishly built kibbutzim on the occupied Arab lands, and the settlers needed food, incl. fruits and vegetables. Grow tomatoes with cabbage open field it is useless in the desert, so it was decided to build greenhouses with drip irrigation. However, the glass ones turned out to be expensive, heavy, and the desert winds broke them without any participation of offended Muslims.

It was then that the Israelis came up with, first, to extrude polycarbonate, i.e. extrusion in a softened state through profiled nozzles - dies. This stabilized the mechanical properties of polycarbonate and improved them by an order of magnitude. Secondly, a two-layer coating was started on the outer surface of the boards. protective covering from UV: the first layer reflected most of it, and the next one absorbed the remainder. This is how cellular polycarbonate appeared, see fig. And sheets of massive now also began to be extruded or cast under pressure, and a UV filter was also applied to them.

General Consequences

Like all cellular materials, polycarbonate has a very sharp fatigue threshold and collapses catastrophically: sudden and without warning signs. It costs itself and the building stands like a glove, and then - fuck! bang! - collapsed. On a new car or beds with a crop, the income from which feeds the whole family.

Further, honeycomb polycarbonate sheet is among the working materials. That is, he not only lies on the frame and transfers the load to it, but also perceives it and redistributes it. Excessive thickness and / or incorrectly chosen structure of the slab (see below) will not only make the structure heavier and more expensive, but will also give it excessive rigidity. The loads will spread poorly, and the entire structure will quickly, but imperceptibly, approach the threshold of fatigue, with all the consequences.

It is possible to reduce the probability of "fucking" to zero if the design and construction of polycarbonate is carried out not on a whim, but on the basis of the results of a calculation, the purpose of which is: a) to choose the optimal size of the plate; b) develop a frame for it. In the process of calculation, it is necessary to achieve an optimum strength on a wider scale so that natural and operational impacts do not obviously exceed it.

Finally, the UV protection of the board comes into effect only when exposed to atmospheric oxygen and sunlight, and the surface strength of the plate decreases. Nothing can be done, the best UV filter for polycarbonate has not yet been invented.

Based on all this, it is already possible to indicate the general rules for handling cellular polycarbonate:

1. Do not store boards in the light and do not buy if there is a suspicion that storage conditions have been violated.
2. When buying, selectively check 1-2 plates by twisting: 2 people lightly, by 3-5 degrees, twist the plate with a screw. The damaged material crackles. Conscientious sellers allow such a check and even offer it themselves.
3. Do not shoot protective film from slabs until the completion of construction. It pulls out from under the standard fasteners without problems.
4. Installing the flooring is fast. It is desirable to complete it within one working day. If it doesn’t work out, remove the protective film from the finished part, and interrupt the work for 2-3 days until the UV filter eats into the material. Mount the remainder carefully, as the previously finished surface is now easier to scratch.
5. Mount the boards only with the UV-resistant side facing out. The front side is marked on the protective film.

Such precautions are necessary because the UV filter is initially a thin layer of sticky jelly-like mass, like Velcro on tape. If the plate under the film is left in the light, then a photochemical reaction will begin in the UV filter, it, the film and the plate will stick together and all together will become unusable.

General rules

Cellular polycarbonate, besides that it itself works as part of the power circuit of the structure, is in some cases suitable for use in a prestressed state. It is probably not worth explaining what prestressed structures (PNK) are. The Ostankino TV tower is known to everyone.

carport

A carport is a very responsible building, especially if the car has been under it for a long time. In the summer, by the way, it is better to keep the car under a canopy, and not in a stuffy and sun-baked garage. Therefore, in this case, it would be advisable to use the principles of PNK. This will also significantly reduce the cost of metal for the frame and concreting. In this way, you can build simple and inexpensive, absolutely reliable canopies of various capacities (pos. 1-3 in the figure)

How - see below, but first discuss common mistakes. First, in places with prevailing winds of one direction, carports are often made inclined to the windward, pos. 4. For gas stations and cafes / restaurants, where the main thing is to shelter people who got out of the car from the weather, this is not bad, but for a long-term parking of a personal / family car, it can be simply dangerous.

The fact is that in such places, if it blows from the opposite side, then it is strong. And the sloped canopy now works like a wing, generating tremendous lift. If the canopy is on 2 pillars (pos. 4; by the way, it is twice as expensive as the same on 4 in the corners), then it will simply be demolished. And if on 4, then a pillar with a concrete "bump" can be torn out of the ground and go to beat on the car. Sorry, now non-insurance scrap metal.

In windy areas, a sloped carport is good as an extension to a house; It doesn't matter if it's upwind or downwind. According to aerodynamics, it is better to perform it arched (pos. 5). The design of the wing type with the extended slat / flap (pos. 6) is more original, it requires more material, work, and under the bent edge in bad weather there will be a vortex in which rain / snow drizzle will spin.

For a free-standing canopy, the design shown in pos. 7. If the prevailing winds are weak or moderate, which happens in most cases, then the convex part of the canopy is oriented towards the wind. In winter, this will allow you to reduce the snow load, see below for the calculation of canopies. If it "explodes" from the reverse side, then the wind pressure on the flat part will only press the canopy to the ground more firmly, and the drizzle cloud will be carried far to the side.

PNK or farm?

The specifications for honeycomb boards explicitly state that they can be bent (and not bent to irreversible deformations!) Only transversely, so that the internal stiffeners are perpendicular to the bend, and not along it. But some types of polycarbonate can also be bent lengthwise to a small extent, as shown on the left in fig. Then the roof of the flooring forms the PNK, which is very strong and rigid; the size of the crate cell can be made in any conditions (see below for calculation) from 1.5x2 m. An arched canopy-PNK for one car with a size of 3x4 m in plan will require a minimum consumption of material and work.

Note: the types of polycarbonate, its choice and design of the metal frame will be discussed in more detail later.

PNK made of rigid plastic and concrete have another useful property: over time, the material “settles down” in a new state and the technical parameters of the structure improve. Remember how the Ostankino tower was driven during the memorable fire. And they replaced the tightening ropes - and nothing, it costs, as it stood, it broadcasts. What broadcasts is not a question for the builders, they watch TV like everyone else.

If the canopy is a simple visor, (on the left in the figure), then its ridge is also performed as simple frame attached to the wall of a building. If the canopy is free on pillars in the form of a full arch, then the ridge should be made trussed with the same parameters as for the next case.

With a canopy width of more than 3.5-3.6 m, arched or pitched, the roof rafters must be trussed. Widespread designs for material consumption are clearly redundant. This does not go to the detriment of strength, because. the frame is metal or wooden, but it requires more money and work.

Farms can be optimized according to the principle of variable strut pitch, well known to aviators. To do this, when designing a farm, the angle at the tops of its cells is kept constant, the average pos. The standard size of the strut profile is taken 1.5-2 times less than for poles, strapping and arches / shoulders of rafters.

The principle of PNK can also be used in a metal frame, on the right in Fig. It will allow you to create a canopy with dimensions in terms of 4x6 m, costing only 4 pillars, 3 rafters from segmental arches with a bowstring, one ridge run, 3 props and 2 half-size diagonal ties, on the right in Fig. 2 standard (2.1x6 m) polycarbonate sheets, bent correctly across, will go to the roof.

The bottom line is that, under the wind and snow, do not let the vault spread and move in corners, and they are held by diagonal ties. In order for them to work as they should, the pillars need to be moved away from the very corners by 1/3 of the pitch of the rafters, and the crosshairs of the diagonals should be welded to the bowstring of the middle arch.

But main secret- in tightly stretched steel 4-6 mm steel cables inside the diagonal ties. It is they who give the frame excellent rigidity without sacrificing elasticity. You need to tighten the cables with screws, no spring will give the required force. Twice a year, in spring and autumn, the tension is checked and the cables are tightened. Cables need only flexible stranded double helical lay. Simple single-core spirals will quickly weaken, and cross ones are not suitable at all.

Porch

The canopy over the porch is not as responsible as the car, smaller in size and attached to the wall of the building above the entrance. That's why technical requirements to it below, and aesthetic above.

Technical data in any climatic zone of the Russian Federation is almost always provided by a simple, without tightening bowstring, radius arch with two struts, pos. 1 in fig. It is also possible to use the PNK described above, then the entire canopy will consist of only 3 parts, pos. 2. If the overhang of the canopy is more than 1.5 m, then it makes sense to abandon the struts, and support the visor with pillars in the corners, pos. 3.

In general, strut poles are not a hindrance, especially if the porch is high and with railings, pos. 4. But with a low porch with radius steps, the pillars only require extra work, interfere with the passage and spoil the view, pos. 5. An exception is regions with extreme snow and wind loads, but shown in pos. 5th house is clearly not in this.

If the design visor is required without struts, then it must be made deep, as in pos. 6, so that the wings of the arch perceive the same loads. The strength and rigidity of slab cellular polycarbonate make it possible to use such a solution.

However, the outreach of the struts must be at least a third of the outreach of the canopy. Here the point is already in the wall of the building and the frame, they are not polycarbonate. If the struts are too small (pos. 7), the polycarbonate itself will stand, but the wind can break the frame or turn the entire visor out of the wall.

The original, but aerodynamically unsuccessful solution is shown in pos. 8. Well, where when did you see a wing on a rack only in front or behind? He will be turned out at speed; for the porch - in strong winds. Racks are made 2 at the edges or one in the middle, but this option is not suitable for the porch.

Generally speaking, the mechanical qualities of polycarbonate for a canopy over the door are not so important. More importantly, this material allows you to get a beautiful canopy only due to its own decorative qualities, without resorting to the services of a designer.

The second aesthetic advantage of polycarbonate is that it, in itself, is smooth and shiny, visually perfectly combined with metal. Polycarbonate roofing ennobles even ordinary structural steel painted with blacksmith paint. The so-called. top dominant. The product, which in itself looks rough, under an elegant roof acquires sophistication.

For an example in fig. below - drawings of a canopy over the entrance to the house. Its peculiarity, firstly, is that the side decorative elements do not carry a mechanical load and can be made by any master to the taste. Secondly, to make them, an ordinary locksmith's workshop is enough, expensive art forging is not required. And the third - thanks to the roofing of the pipe rack correctly calculated for polycarbonate, you can make any, from 30 mm, diameter, from a regular or stainless pipe, and change their length over a wide range. All this together gives the canopy visual lightness.

Note : one of the ways how to make a canopy over a polycarbonate porch yourself without welding, see the video below. For a beginner, this is essential.

Video: homemade polycarbonate visor without welding

gazebos

To understand how cozy and comfortable polycarbonate should be, you need to understand the question: why is it not used to build residential premises? Are polycarbonate showers and beach cabins a rarity? Have you thought about it?

The fact is that polycarbonate, better than silicate glass, transmits light, at the same time better reflects thermal (infrared, IR) radiation. From here - strong greenhouse effect. Visible light, entering the room, is absorbed in it, which is why everything inside heats up, emitting IR. And it is again reflected inward. To create a microclimate in greenhouses, this is just what you need. But living quarters will be unbearably parky.

The greenhouse-polycarbonate effect already affects the gazebos, especially if their skin is curved and concentrates IR. For example, in the creation of Ukrainian designers (pos. 5 in the figure), not only the alarming red light hits the nerves, but you will also evaporate even in spring or autumn. To bring yourself to the right degree before the next Maidan, it’s suitable, especially if “it’s sausage in life” without that. But it is not suitable for spiritual gatherings. If you really want an all-weather exclusive, you will have to pay 7-12 thousand dollars for comfort with prestige and order a capital dome with sliding sections, forced ventilation and air conditioning, pos. 6.

Note: due to the strong greenhouse effect, it is undesirable to make a polycarbonate gazebo with a barbecue, it is a powerful source of IR.

Ventilation is not mentioned in vain. In a gazebo with a polycarbonate roof, at least 2 walls should be openwork, providing free air circulation, as in pos. 1 and 3. If the fence is solid, it must be made waist-high to a person and without fail with a ventilation gap at the bottom, pos. 2.

The next stumbling block is the coordination of materials for aesthetics. In polycarbonate, it is exceptionally high-tech, so it is difficult to match it with wood. The same gazebo in pos. 1 - good example. I don't really want to live in such a wooden aquarium. If to do wooden gazebo under polycarbonate, then you need to either take the color of the plates warm, to match the wood, or paint the gazebo under the roof, make it from fine details and in a laconic style, as in pos. 2.

For budgetary unpretentious designs, the principle of color contrast of aesthetically gravitating parts will be effective. At pos. 4 metal, which is naturally combined with polycarbonate, is painted in a flashy and contrasting color for the roof. Therefore, the service parts seem to be at war with each other, and the functionally main ones - benches and a table - create an inviting island of comfort. Whoever was the author of this arbor, nature did not deprive him of artistic taste.

From general to specific

If you are tired of general, but still necessary, reasoning, get ready to receive a lot of specific instructions, numerical data and calculations: we are starting to figure out how the canopy is made. So far from the previous you need to remember that polycarbonate sheathing is working. Enough has been said about PNK above.

More about working skin

Take the same 4 pieces of slats, well, they say, 20x20, the ends of which are selected in a quarter, and 4 carnations. Knock down a square from the rails, driving nails into the corners, and paste over it thick paper. Now try to skew. Warps? Is the paper wrinkled, torn? The upholstery doesn't work.

Now take the slats two to four times thinner and a piece of thin cardboard. Before churning into a square, overlay cardboard and churn straight through without gluing. Warps? Where there, you can drop on the floor. This is the working cover. And what makes it work is greater than that of paper of the same thickness and density, the rigidity of the cardboard, because it is pressed during the manufacturing process.

Now let's take the old thick slats, and on the tire instead of paper or cardboard - a thin tin. Let's drop the product on the floor. If you hit a corner, it will shatter into pieces: too rigid a skin won back to the point that it destroyed the frame. The previous version, cheaper and simpler, turned out to be stronger with the maximum possible impact.

Polycarbonate works in the same way, only its rigidity per unit of both thickness and mass is much higher. One condition: if the rigidity of the skin is lost (for example, due to excessive deflection of the sheet), then it can not only collapse itself, but also pull the frame along with it. This also needs to be clearly remembered.

What do we do?

The question in the title translates into technical language: the preliminary design stage. In this case, its purpose is:

• Choose the type of canopy according to its purpose and personal requirements.
• Select the general principles of construction.
• Choose a method of attaching the flooring to the frame.
• Choose the type of roof panels for your specific local conditions.
• Determine the type of frame material and its required standard sizes.
• Develop a way to install / attach the frame to the base.

Canopy selection

Typical designs of canopies are shown in fig. This does not mean that another cannot be made; possibly unique. But for standard designs construction manuals (SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and Impacts"; SP 20.13330.2011) provide complete sets of design parameters and coefficients for them. Polycarbonate endures a lot, but it does not forgive too much exposure. That's why the original project will have to be carefully modeled on a computer and, since it is impossible to check from operating experience, large “all-over” corrections should be set. Due to the characteristics of the material described above, the design becomes more complicated at times and orders of magnitude. This explains the exorbitant cost of exclusive awnings.

When choosing, consider the following:

1. For Russian conditions (winds are mostly light, but there is a lot of snow) the best options are a dome, a simple radius arch and an awning.
2. The last two in polycarbonate design are almost equal in terms of labor intensity and material consumption to a gable canopy.
3. A concave canopy is not recommended; with snow accumulation according to the 2nd limit state (see below), its reliability is low, and the injury hazard it creates is vice versa. The exception is places with little snow and strong winds.
4. A simple shed polycarbonate canopy must outside corners lean on poles. If it is impossible to put them, you need to make a canopy with a valance or a straight box. The clearance height is not less than 12% of the long side; boxes - at least 20% short.

The last requirement is due to the fact that the wind can wrap the edge of the canopy in a wave or "propeller". Having won back, when the impulse subsides, the rigid and elastic polycarbonate is able to twist the frame.

Special mention should be made of carports:

1. In most of the Russian Federation, the optimal design is arched.
2. For places with little snow, but windy (from the Lower Volga region and Derbent to the Russian Sea of ​​\u200b\u200bAzov), a two-slope canopy with an angle of inclination of up to 10-15 degrees is more suitable; its aerodynamic quality is lower, and the labor intensity is less.
3. In a very extreme climate: the South Coast (of the Arctic Ocean, this is a prison term), Chukotka, Kamchatka, mountainous regions, an elongated gentle arch, a low elongated dome, or the simple combined canopy of increased resistance described below will be more reliable.

How will we build?

Here in fig. with canopies the general assembly technology is shown. She is easy:

• Support columns of the base standard size are placed, a strapping is made on their top.
• The crate is mounted under the roof.
• Longitudinal supports are welded or cut flush into the transverse crate of load-bearing beams (rafter legs, arcs of arches) - runs, of a smaller size. The ridge run, if any, is taken from the base size.
• The joints of the plates should fall on cross beams; we will calculate the step of cross-links.
• The plates are joined using special profiles or self-made connecting nodes, see below. Now the structure is able to support vertical loads.
• The slabs are attached to the girders with point fasteners with gaps for thermal deformations and elastic gaskets, it is thanks to them that the skin works.
• The ends of the panels and the ridge are formed, as described later in the assembly section.

Choosing panels

Which polycarbonate to choose for a canopy? Its quality and operational properties, contrary to advertising claims, are more dependent on the structure of the panel than on trademarks and brands of manufacturers. Let the reader know that the situation with polycarbonate is a bit like a beer: the powder (granular mass) is produced by only a few companies around the world, and the rest are bred, that is, they are passed through an extruder, poured (cut), dripping a drop of flavor (applying UV- filter), also purchased, stick their own label and put it on sale.

Note: the best polycarbonate granulate in the world is Russian. The domestic industry produces its types that have no analogues. Unfortunately, manufacturers, like Solomon, keep the secret of their print, whose raw materials they use. However, for domestic use, any branded panels are good.

The main types of honeycomb polycarbonate are shown in fig. Symbols [number] R indicate the number of longitudinal layers, and X - the presence of diagonal stiffeners in the honeycombs. The thickness of the sheet and its structure are not directly related: panels of the same structure can be of different thicknesses, and vice versa. A typical sales assortment is shown below. rice.

How to accurately select a panel by thickness, we will figure it out in the order of calculation. The recommendations for structure are as follows:

• 2R, minimum allowable bending radius (MRI) 35 thickness - for canopies over a door, a showcase, a small porch or gazebos in 1-2 wind and snow zones, see maps below.
• 3R, MRI 45 thickness - the same for 3-4 climatic zones, and in quiet places with little snow for general use, except for long-term carports.
• 3RX, MRI 55 thickness - for everything above and carports in the same places.
• 5R, MRI 75 thickness - the same as 3R, for 5-6 snow and 1-2 wind zones.
• 5RX, MRI 120 thickness - the same as 5R, for 5-6 snow and 3-6 wind zones.
• 6RX, MRI 300 thickness - in places with a very harsh climate, mainly for greenhouses. Not recommended for awnings, very hard.

Note: MRI are approximate for bending across the sheet, they are specified according to the specification for specific panels. Longitudinal bending in the PNA composition is acceptable for 3RX and 5RX under the conditions described above.

Snow and wind...

Already now we needed maps of the estimated wind pressure in the Russian Federation:

and snow load:

The numerical values ​​of the parameters are not needed yet, but will be required later. We will immediately give explanations for the snow map:

The first limiting case is the gradual accumulation of snow in a quiet, consistently frosty winter with heavy rainfall. Snow, not having time to evaporate dry (sublimate), freezes below into a dense granular mass - firn. In the spring, the snow layer with a firn lining on smooth polycarbonate first rests on the heads of the fasteners, and then, having melted, slides down all at once.

The second limiting case is an unstable winter, with thaws and/or strong winds. There may be no visible accumulation of snow on the roof. But he, moving down the slope, sticks together into large lumps, heavily loading the roof overhangs and gutters. For smooth polycarbonate, especially for a canopy without gutters, this case is not significant.

Note: a layer of snow of 5 cm increases wind load per 3 kg/sq. m; 10 cm - per 10 kg / sq. m; 15 cm - per 12 kg / sq. m; 25 cm - per 15 kg / sq. m. These are indicative values ​​for conventional polycarbonate canopies, the exact increase, if necessary, is calculated from the aerodynamics of the roof.

About the panel thickness

What should be the thickness of the polycarbonate for the canopy? Not less than 10 mm, such a 3RX sheet on a 1.5x2 m crate cell holds the weight of an adult. But remember the experiments with slats, cardboard and tin: optimal thickness panels need to be defined comprehensively, along with its structure. We will do this later, in the process of calculating the roof.

frame

Polycarbonate is closer in strength to metal than to wood. Therefore, alas, getting a working skin on a wooden frame will not work. Polycarbonate panels for wood are like slate, roofing iron or ondulin. How, nevertheless, to lay polycarbonate on a tree, we will briefly consider at the end, but for now let's deal with a more suitable metal.

Metal is a massive material. This greatly simplifies the calculation of the frame; you can use generalizing-averaging methods. The optimal profile of the bearing element is a square steel tube with rounded corners. In terms of the ratio of strength to material, labor input and total cost, it turns out to be, as they say, a circle ahead of the others.

The calculated ratios also come out simple:

• 1-2 wind and snow zones - basic standard size, with a wall thickness of 2 mm, from 10 mm per 1 m of the largest canopy size in the plan, but not less than 40 mm.
• 3-4 zones, those and those - the base for general-purpose sheds is the same, but for car sheds from 15 mm / m.
• 5-6 wind and 5 snow zone - total base from 15 mm/m, auto - from 20 mm/m.
• 7 wind, 6 and 7 snow zones - total base from 20 mm/m, auto - from 30 mm/m.

We choose the zone according to the worst. That is, if we are in the 1st wind and 5th snow zone, then we ignore the wind and count on the snow. In the same way, by the way, in all subsequent calculations, if the parameters of both wind and snow are not used. Select the nearest larger profile from a number of standard sizes.

In the basic standard size, we carry out poles, their upper trim (support frame) and the main load-bearing elements:

1. Rafter legs.
2. Their full lower beams are puffs.
3. Arcs of arches; if an arch of two arcs (double, "lunar") - both arcs.
4. Strings of segmental arches.
5. Skate ride.
6. Median supports of rafters and arches - headstock.
7. Pole braces, top and bottom.

Auxiliary load-bearing elements - purlins, braces of truss arches and rafters, etc. - are made from a half-size profile. Increasing it to base doesn't hurt.

For example, in the Voronezh region. for a garden gazebo and a carport for a budget small car measuring 3x4 m, only a 40 mm professional pipe will go. In the Moscow region, the frame of the gazebo will remain the same, but a canopy for the same car needs a pipe of at least 60 mm, and for a solid Lexus - 80 mm. But on the east coast of Kamchatka, for a gazebo (who will sit there?), You need a pipe of 80 mm, and for any carport - from 120 mm.

Hammer, dig in, concrete?

Now let's figure out how the pillars are installed, guided by the principle: cheap and cheerful. For a gazebo and a porch, the best option is a diameter of the base size, the cheapest ones are more than enough. The screwing depth is not less than 1200 mm.

The point here is not only that they are unlikely to cost more than a profile with concreting. And not even in the simplicity and speed of screwing: a screw pile will transfer any loads into the ground, incl. lateral. A canopy will give them be healthy, but concrete does not like such.

If the gazebo is solid wood, the pillars can simply be dug into the ground by 600-900 mm. This is more reliable than driving pipe trimmings into the ground, and the roots of the pillars are in them. But first, the section of the pillar that will be in the ground must be thoroughly saturated with boiling bitumen. If the size of the bitumen vessel allows (say, it is boiled in a cut off industrial gas cylinder or in a pipe welded from below), then put a piece of wood there and hold for 1-5 minutes until the bitumen around the tree stops bubbling. This means that water evaporated from the wood and air came out, and bitumen entered instead. When the impregnation has cooled to a tack, the earthen end of the column is wrapped with roofing material and immediately buried in a pre-drilled hole.

For a carport, overall stability is most important, and it is larger in size. Here already without concreting not to do. But each post will loosen the concrete plug by itself, not like in the fence. And the fence almost does not give alternating vertical loads, and the canopy creates large ones.

A typical scheme for concreting pillars under a canopy provides for the installation of special embedded parts (anchors), on the left in the figure, which convert all loads into compression familiar to concrete. From the point of view of mass production for general sale, this is optimal - any post can be screwed to the anchor. But in terms of strength, it’s not so hot: the antinodes of the loads on the column (the places of their concentration) fall, as they used to say, exactly, on detachable connections.

If you make a canopy yourself, then you can save a lot on anchors, and increase the strength of the frame by 1.5-2 times. To do this (on the right in the figure):

1. At a distance of 600-900 mm from the lower ends of the pillars, we weld plates to them from 350x350 mm, with a thickness of 8 mm.
2. At the corners of the plates, 40-50 mm from the edges, segments of a steel bar with a diameter of 16 mm and a length of 350-400 mm should be welded through.
3. From the outside, each pillar is supported by one strut.
4. The depth of the pit under the post is 300 mm more than the depth of its embedding in concrete (along the slab), of which 100-120 mm will fall on the sand cushion.

About the number of pillars

How many canopy poles do you need? They are labor-intensive, I want less, but without loss of reliability. Well, for concrete poles, wind recommendations can be given; any snow load can withstand:

• 1-3 zones - the maximum step is 6 m.
• 4 and 5 zones - step up to 4 m.
• Zones 6 and 7 - step up to 2.5 m.

The minimum allowable pole pitch for all zones is 1.7 m. If set more often, a strong wind will run into them like a solid wall. Then the canopy should be calculated not as a canopy, but as the roof of a building, and this is a completely different topic.

How to fix panels?

More recently, connecting profiles for polycarbonate were assembled on self-tapping screws or screws, at the top left in fig. Here:

1. Decorative overlay.
2. Upper retaining profile.
3. The seal is normal.
4. Polycarbonate panel.
5. The seal is self-adhesive.
6. Self-tapping screw
7. Anti-dust tape with microfilters in perforation.
8. End profile.
9. load-bearing frame element.

Note: anti-dust tape is essential. Without it, the panels not only get dirty from the inside, but also crack from there.

Self-made, using silicone for sealing or, for low-wind places, microporous rubber, and cut PVC boxes for covers, successfully managed without expensive branded connectors, at the top right in fig. If the outlets of the panel channels were at different levels (for example, in PNK), only the lower end was covered with anti-dust tape, and the upper end was covered with cheaper aluminum self-adhesive tape, at the bottom left in Fig.

For point fixings, in any case, special thermal washers are required, at the bottom in the center and on the right in fig. Successful attempts to replace them with their own inventions are unknown. The fact is that at the slightest mismatch between the parameters of the thermal expansion of the plate and the thermal washer, the panel warps, the flooring loses its strength and dust and dirt penetrate into its channels.

In general, point attachments are the weak point of polycarbonate. Thermal washers should be purchased recommended by the panel manufacturer, or vice versa. Others are possible, but then a test is needed: the washer is tightened without bringing its cover to the panel by 1 mm. At the same time, the gasket should become flush with the edge of the cover or not reaching it, also 1 mm, but in no case should it protrude.

Now the "screw" technology of joining plates is becoming obsolete. In all respects, including aesthetic ones, it is superior to snap-on connection profiles, fig. below. Compare, for example, a ridge joint on screws (fig. on the right above), and using the RP profile. And the cost of solid plastic connectors has fallen so much that it makes no sense to fence homemade products.

About cutting panels

The best option for manual cutting is disc hand saw with a "clean cut" circle. These are used by parquet workers working with laminate; Outwardly, this tool looks like a hair clipper.

For polycarbonate, an indispensable condition is that the saw must be with a sawdust removal system (simply, with suction). Only in this case, the cut of hard plastic will be really clean, and the small teeth of a special profile only contribute to it.

Step right, step left...

Now we have come to finally finishing the calculation of the canopy. We have to determine:

1. precise thickness and structure of the panels;
2. installation step of rafters or arches;
3. run installation step;
4. location of point fasteners on the runs.

In order to find all this, you must first determine the total (summary, combined) load on the roof. For a canopy, this is not so simple, because. the wind blows freely under it.

Load

From the zoning maps of Russia in terms of wind and snow load, it can be seen that in most of its territory, snow presses much more strongly. From here, a useful circumstance follows for the canopy: by varying the parameters of the chosen structure (or choosing another one, if it does not converge), you need to achieve some “negative” wind load.

“Negative” is quoted because in fact this load is positive: the wind tends to tear off the roof, this will unload it from the snow and allow better matching of the strength parameters of the frame and flooring, which will simplify and reduce the cost of construction. For cellular polycarbonate, which, with a thickness of 16 mm, does not break under the feet of a healthy man, this approach is quite legitimate.

Here it is appropriate to recall the Suvorov principle: hard in learning, easy in the campaign. Not in battle, Suvorov did not say that. He knew that combat was never easy. The calculation of the wind load is simple, but time-consuming.

The wind effect on the roof is calculated as follows:

• Using construction manuals (for example, those indicated above) for the selected type of roof, we find the location of the wind zones, their sizes and design coefficients for specific parameters of the canopy. An example for a house under a gable roof, see fig.

• For each zone of action (application of force), we find the magnitude of the wind pressure by multiplying its calculated value on the map by the area of ​​​​the zone and its coefficient.
• We sum them up and divide by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe canopy in the plan. A working polycarbonate sheathing will endure this with a margin.
• By changing the parameters of the roof, we achieve the most complete compensation of snow pressure, using load zoning maps. Do not forget to check for pulling out the supports, knowing that 1 pole sits in ordinary soil with a force of 1.2 tons!
• If necessary, we take a different type of canopy, add pillars.
• Do not forget to take into account that the snow enhances the effect of the wind, see above!
• Having achieved the optimum, we proceed to the choice of panels and the pitch of the rafters.

Now we calculate the actual snow load as P = p*cos α, where p is the calculated load in our area; P is the actual load; α is the angle of the roof slope. For low radius arches α is the angle of inclination of the line from the ridge to the Mauerlat. We add the snow load with the wind load algebraically, taking into account the signs. For smooth polycarbonate, the coefficient of adhesion of snow to the roof can be neglected.

Panels, rafters, arches

Now let's take Table. in fig. on right. Using it, knowing the total load on the roof (wind + snow), you can immediately find the pitch of the rafters, the thickness and structure of the panel.

You just need to adhere to the following conditions:

• The pitch of the rafters should be chosen as a multiple of the standard panel width of 2.1 m or its whole parts: 1/2, 1/3, 1/4.
• The connection of panels should only be on the main load-bearing elements, hanging joints are unacceptable.
• It is necessary to take into account the recommendations for choosing the structure of the panels given above.

Note: in zones starting from the 5th, it is impossible to use panels weaker than 5RX 16 mm. In general, to optimize for a negative load, you need to select panels, the frame will not help much here.

About attaching connectors

You don’t need to think about the step of attaching the connecting profiles to the rafters: it is a multiple of the step of the mounting holes in them. The standard value is 300, 450, 600 mm, depending on the climate.

Runs

With runs, the situation is simpler: their step is equal to one and a half from the rafters. Say, if the rafters are after 1 m, then the runs are after 1.5 m. If there is less than one run on the shoulder of the roof, then from the longitudinal ties, a longitudinal beam of the strapping (Mauerlat) and a ridge are sufficient.

Here, using the work of the sheathing, you can apply an interesting trick: we find the step of the rafters from the table, we calculate the step of the runs and calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cell of the crate. Then, withstanding it, we put the rafters more often, until the runs go away at all. We get an "air" canopy, and there are plenty of our own internal runs in each panel.

Point fixings

The minimum pitch of the "dots" is 300 mm. If you put them more often, the overall strength of the panels will weaken due to the holes in them. For a combined load of less than 100 kg/sq. We put 3 “points” per run: one at 15-20 cm from the joints and one in the middle. For large ones, we take the pitch of the “points” approximately equal to half the pitch of the rafters for the 3R 6 mm structure, this is the top line in the table, but we observe the same trinity: be sure to have one from the edges and one in the middle.

Strong economy (example for a car)

In accordance with all of the above, a fairly well-known design of an economical but durable carport has been developed, see fig.

• The configuration of the roof is such that snow does not accumulate on it in any climate: the weakest wind blows it from above, and it falls off the sidewalls even without wind, the flooring is smooth. And with prolonged calm with heavy snowfalls, the weight of snow on the site at the top is distributed over the entire area of ​​​​the roof support and the total load is halved.
• For "wind roads", narrow valleys and hollows, a roof variant has been developed, shown on the right in Fig. The crests of its lanterns are oriented according to the prevailing wind. It will blow back - it's okay, it will blow in the same way.

Polycarbonate on wood

As already mentioned, a polycarbonate roof on a wooden base is just a flooring. Roofing on a tree is a separate issue. Here we only show in Fig. their main types and designs of rafters.

Note: typos in fig. No. Laid means that they are leaned on the walls from above, and not leaning against them from the side. Do you think it is in vain that philologists consider the Russian language unparalleled in expressiveness?

On the trail. rice. - drawings of wooden rafters for shed canopies near the wall of the building. Support posts where shown are required! On a tree, the strength and rigidity of polycarbonate can only reduce the cross section of the main load-bearing elements (see above) to 60x100 mm, and the auxiliary ones to 40x60 mm.

Make or buy?

But what will we gain by comprehending all these complexities and applying them in practice? Compare: the cost of 2R 4 mm panels in the Russian Federation ranges from 1600 to 2200 rubles / sq. m; for 1 square 5RX 16 mm - within 3900-4200 rubles / sq. m. For a ready-made simple, arched on 4 pillars, a carport with installation on site, they ask for 2200-4500 rubles / sq. m. It is clearly unprofitable to do it yourself, for the pros there are wholesale prices and dealer discounts.

Polycarbonate is a high-tech material that has found its application in many construction industries. For the manufacture of polycarbonate, the extrusion method is used, and the material itself, in principle, is a polymer-based plastic. What explains such a great popularity of the material? First of all, unique properties, including transparency, lightness, increased strength, plasticity and resistance to low temperatures. In a word, an excellent alternative to obsolete PVC panels.

Additional photos (click to enlarge)

So, today we will find out how to build a polycarbonate canopy, what this material is in general and what are its main advantages. We will also get acquainted with the types, technical parameters and prices.

Do-it-yourself instructions for assembling a canopy for a car made of polycarbonate

Raw Materials

We measure the platform for the canopy

Checking the slope of the site

Drilling holes for racks

We install racks

We mount side trusses

Assembly of arched trusses

Installation of arched trusses

Lathing installation

Installation of polycarbonate

End profile installation

We concrete racks

The price of polycarbonate awnings

1	NA6, Price: 2000 rub. m2.	NA7, Price: 2000 rubles. m2	NA7, Price: 2000 rubles. m2
2	N04, Price: 2200 rub. m2	N03, Price: 2200 rub. m2	N02, Price: 2200 rub. m2
3	N01, Price: 2200 rub. m2	N05, Price: 2300 rub. m2	N11, Price: 2400 rubles. m2
4	N10, Price: 2400 rub. m2	N12, Price: 2500 rub. m2	N24, Price: 2800 rub. m2
5	N22, Price: 2800 rub. m2	N44, Price: 4200 rubles. m2	N43, Price: 4200 rubles. m2
6	N45, Price: 4400 rubles. m2	N48, Price: 4600 rubles. m2	N28, Price: 3200 rub. m2

Key varieties of polycarbonate

Let's start with the fact that the material itself can be:

• monolithic;
• cellular.

Let's get acquainted with the features of each type of material.

Cellular polycarbonate - what is it?

This material is distinguished by a fairly simple device - it is a kind of panel that includes several plastic layers (opaque or transparent) connected to each other by means of vertically located stiffening ribs. The ribs themselves are located in the direction of the polycarbonate fibers.

Thus, voids are formed inside the material, in which, in turn, there is air. This feature provides panels with excellent thermal insulation qualities. We also note that honeycomb sheets are quite rigid, but they can still be easily bent even at low temperatures, making the panels simply indispensable for the construction of complex objects.

As for the specific characteristics, they are shown in the table below.

Table. Characteristics and properties of cellular polycarbonate.

Monolithic polycarbonate - what are its features and benefits?

This material differs from that described above in that it is a cast plastic, which is why it received such useful qualities:

• high strength;
• ability to absorb ultraviolet;
• haze/transparency;
• slight weight.

Note! Monolithic polycarbonate is widely used not only in construction, but also in many industrial areas, including those related to high technology.

Key advantages of polycarbonate structures

All structures made of polycarbonate (regardless of whether we are talking about a canopy or a greenhouse roof) have a whole range of advantages.

• They have excellent external data (the choice of colors and shapes is simply huge).
• They are easy to install and subsequently maintain.
• The cost of the material is more than affordable.
• All structures are durable, able to serve for many years.
• They protect against the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays.
• Polycarbonate, as noted earlier, is both matte and transparent.

Choosing the shape of a canopy made of polycarbonate

Polycarbonate canopies can have a wide variety of designs, but they are all conditionally divided by the number of slopes into two large groups - single and double. In addition, products can also be divided according to the design of the slopes - from this point of view, they are:

• arched;
• straight.

Moreover, the canopies can also be divided according to the roof structure (the latter can be located on the farm or on the rafters), the presence / absence of the crate, etc.

Classification of polycarbonate canopies according to their purpose

IN Lately Polycarbonate canopy is gaining more and more popularity, mainly due to the fact that it has become an excellent alternative to wood and metal. Consequently, the design boasts a fairly wide range of uses.

Do-it-yourself carport

A car canopy is a great way to protect vehicles from negative impacts. environment. Tellingly, the carport can be of any shape - for example, square, arched, in the form of an arc - and the only limitation in this case is only human imagination. You should also remember such an important point (especially in private homes) as environmental friendliness.

Polycarbonate canopies for swimming pools

These canopies have a lot of very different functions. So, the structures protect swimmers from the summer sun, thereby minimizing the risk of heat stroke. The texture of the panels is also water-repellent, so drops do not linger on them, but flow down under the influence of their own weight. A shadow is created over the pool itself, and the water inside it does not bloom. Finally, leaves and other debris are guaranteed not to fall into the water.

There is also an alternative option - we are talking about the pavilion for the pool. Yes, it will cost significantly more, but as a result you will receive such significant benefits:

• the pool can be used regardless of the season;
• the design will turn out to be rigid, which means it is resistant to strong winds;
• the water in the reservoir will be reliably protected from flowering and debris;
• the design will give a lot of shade, which is especially important on hot summer days.

Features of a canopy over the porch of the house

For guard front door, as well as the territory adjacent to it, from the hot sun or bad weather, many build a small canopy using polycarbonate for it. Due to the fact that the shape / color of the material can be absolutely, the design can be easily entered into the composition of the building. Plastic can be bought even transparent, which will allow, as it were, to regulate the penetrating light.

Polycarbonate canopy for a balcony - you can not glaze!

This option will be an excellent solution if, with the slightest precipitation or snow, the functionality of your balcony is immediately lost (that is, it is simply impossible to go there). People who like to set up greenhouses can use transparent plastic, which can provide the plants on the balcony with light in the quantities necessary for their normal and full development.

Note! Such a canopy will not only protect from the weather - it can also extend the life of the balcony structure itself, especially if it is made of wood. Various fungi will not form there, which is important for people who use the balcony as a pantry.

Polycarbonate canopy over the terrace

Recreation outside the city in the fresh air is truly incomparable. But so that such a vacation is not overshadowed by precipitation or the hot sun, it is recommended to equip a polycarbonate canopy. You can organize under it, for example, a summer kitchen so that the cooking process is carried out in the fresh air.

Polycarbonate gazebo canopy - today's alternative to traditional roofing

If you want to build a gazebo or are already in the process, but don’t know what exactly to cover the structure with, we advise you to give preference to the polycarbonate described in this article. Due to its many advantages, this is the best option for creating a roof. You can, for example, make a beautiful matte roof for the gazebo, which will also be an excellent addition to the design of the site. Be that as it may, the canopy will become an excellent protection against surrounding troubles, and there are simply no other functions that a canopy in the gazebo should have.

Rules for choosing polycarbonate for the construction of a canopy

We figured out the features and varieties of the material, now we will find out what to look for when buying. For the designs listed above, the best option will become a cellular material with which you can build a porch of any configuration and color.

Good choice of material thickness

When choosing, special attention should be paid to the thickness of the polycarbonate - it depends, first of all, on the purpose and type of the future structure. Also, this should take into account the bending radius, the step with which the crate will be constructed, wind / snow loads, etc. More detailed information can be found in the table below.

If we are talking about outdoor structures, then for their roofing preference should be given thin sheets plastic. Do not think that you will save money this way - this is fundamentally the wrong opinion. And indeed, after all, the step of constructing the crate here will be more frequent, which, of course, will require large expenses. It is also better not to use thick sheets, even to increase the strength characteristics of the structure. In a word, when choosing the thickness of the material, it is necessary to focus on the features and purpose of the canopy.

Here are some helpful tips to help you make the right choice.

• 4mm polycarbonate is ideal for greenhouse structures and advertising structures.
• Panels with a thickness of 4 to 6 millimeters can be used to build canopies or canopies.
• A thickness of 1 centimeter is ideal for various vertical structures - for example, skylights, noise protection structures, etc.
• Finally, panels with a thickness of 1.6 centimeters are able to withstand significant loads, so they can be used for parking lots or other large-area structures.

Features of the frame structure

When designing a polycarbonate canopy, you must take into account the transverse / longitudinal pitch of the frame itself. In the case of transverse supports, the step depends on the thickness of the material, and for a material of 0.8-1.6 centimeters it is a maximum of 100 centimeters, and in the case of longitudinal supports, no more than 70 centimeters. If the sheets are thicker than 0.8 centimeters, then the distance between the transverse supports can be reduced to 70 centimeters.

How to choose the color of the material?

The thickness of the material is not the only criterion by which you need to make a choice. The fact is that the color of the panels can be very different, as well as the degree of their transparency. Below are the most popular color options today.

What should be taken into account when choosing a particular color? First of all, the purpose of the planned design: for a pool, for example, blue, green, blue colors are ideal, but they are absolutely not suitable for creating canopies over the counters, as they will completely distort the color of the products sold.

If we are talking about a greenhouse, then it is obviously better to use a transparent material for it. At the same time, it is definitely not suitable for a place of rest, because it will not be able to protect vacationers from sunlight.

What about quality?

How high-quality polycarbonate depends solely on its manufacturer. If you give preference to well-known companies, then there will be no doubt that the material is reliable and environmentally friendly. Quality products are covered with a special layer designed to protect against UV rays. Moreover, this layer protects not only polycarbonate, but also everything that it - the material - covers.

The volume of recycled materials used in the production of panels is also important - this indicator should be within the normal range. If the manufacturer really values ​​his authority, then he will definitely comply with strict standards, releasing high-quality material.

Video - Why you can not save on polycarbonate

DIY step-by-step instructions for making a polycarbonate canopy

To make a canopy of this material with your own hands, you need to carefully think over and design everything, prepare a site for the structure, build a frame and, in fact, install polycarbonate models. Let's take a closer look at each of these steps.

Stage number 1. We draw up a project

First, select the place where the canopy will be built, after which:

• measure the site and determine what the dimensions of the structure will be;
• decide what the frame will be made of (wood, metal) and the canopy itself (cellular polycarbonate, monolithic);
• make an accurate drawing.

Polycarbonate canopy drawing

Note! In this case, it is necessary to take into account future loads and the influence of external factors. Depending on all this, certain adjustments may be made to the design.

Stage number 2. Equipping the site

First, mark the site, and then dig holes where the racks will be (the depth can be from 0.5 to 1.5 meters, it all depends on the height of the structure) and install mortgages there. Install the latter strictly vertically, then fill with concrete. You will subsequently screw all the racks to these mortgages.

Then remove the top layer of soil on the site (about 20 centimeters). Fill the resulting pit with a “cushion” of sand or gravel, after which tamp everything well. Along the perimeter, try to arrange small drainage ditches through which excess water will be removed.

Stage number 3. We build a frame

As you may have noticed, in the drawing, the iron racks of the frame have a cross section of 8 centimeters, while for other structural elements this figure is 4 centimeters. Attach support posts to the mortgages that you poured with concrete, and to those, in turn, horizontal beams around the perimeter. After that, assemble the remaining elements (if we talk specifically about our example, then the arcs, for which special spacers are used to fasten them to the beams).

You may be wondering why the arch? Everything is extremely simple: nothing accumulates on such a surface, including precipitation, and it all looks very attractive. Use bolts and nuts as fasteners (and washers if necessary).

Stage number 4. We mount polycarbonate panels

The life of the entire structure depends on how well you carry out the work. The panels themselves are easy to install, requiring only minimal skills in construction.

First, prepare everything you need - in particular:

• circular saw;
• construction knife;
• electric drill;
• screwover.

Cut the material without removing the protective film, so as not to damage it. If the panels are thin, you can do this with a construction knife, if not, with circular saw. Install the sheets so that the protective layer is directed towards the source of ultraviolet radiation. The film can be removed only after completion of installation work.

Video - Proper installation of polycarbonate with your own hands

If the canopy is arched, you will have to bend the sheets - do this exclusively along the channels. For fastening, use self-tapping screws from "stainless steel", twisting them in increments of 0.3-0.4 meters. Additionally, you can use special thermal washers intended for cellular polycarbonate, the diameter of which is 3 centimeters. The base of such washers is made of silicone, so the tightness of the joints will be excellent.

Note! The diameter of the holes should exceed the diameter of the self-tapping screws by several millimeters, which is explained by such a phenomenon as the thermal expansion of plastic.

Also remember that holes must be made between the stiffeners, otherwise there will be a risk of damaging the material. Only after that the sheet is attached to the metal frame. It is not worth pinching the hardware, otherwise, again, the polycarbonate may be damaged.

To join the sheets with each other, standard H-shaped profiles are used (their length, as a rule, is 6 meters). To do this, it is necessary to remove the protective film from the ends of the material by about 5 centimeters in advance, after which insert the edges into the profile by at least 2 centimeters, leaving (without fail!) A half-centimeter gap for the same thermal expansion of the material.

So, now you know everything you need to know about a polycarbonate canopy. We recommend watching a video about the installation of this design. That's all, good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopy

In the summer, all meetings with friends or family gatherings are transferred to fresh air. Sudden rain often interferes with plans and forces guests and hosts to move into the house. There are many structures designed to protect against such troubles. Among the options, polycarbonate awnings and canopies attached to the house stand out significantly. They are not only easy to manufacture, but also reliable in their protective functions.

What is a canopy

A canopy is a structure consisting of a roof and supports in the form of pillars. The building may have different sizes and device, installed separately or adjacent to the house. The main purpose is to protect from the rain, but they also serve as visors to protect from direct sunlight.

Polycarbonate canopy for sun protection

Advantages

Design advantages include:

1. Lightness, no need to build a powerful foundation.
2. The ability to cover a large part of the territory of the yard or area near the house, allowing you to perform various works regardless of weather conditions.
3. A polycarbonate canopy adjoining the house makes it possible to hold events with relatives or friends without appearing in the open air.
4. The design is simple and can be made by hand.

Flaws

It is necessary to remember about the disadvantages of canopies:

1. The structure does not protect from wind, dust, cold, insects.
2. The material of the roof is able to completely block the access of sunlight, which is why there is a lack of illumination under the canopy.
3. The roof rattles noticeably in the rain, so it is not recommended to attach the structure under the windows of the bedroom or nursery.
4. In winter, large masses of snow accumulate on the surface, creating a significant load on the roof and the base of the canopy.

The canopy is not an easy protective structure, it forms a kind of communication center, a place for gatherings with friends and relatives. In addition, it is capable of performing other functions:

• car park protection;
• transition from the house to the bathhouse or other buildings;
• canopy over the porch, balcony, other elements of the house.

In addition, high-quality canopies decorate the area near the house, create a high decorative effect. Often they are combined with other structures, forming specialized areas for recreation, communication or other purposes.

Types of canopies

Existing structures of canopies can be combined into groups according to different criteria. By form:

• straight;
• single or double slope;
• domed;
• tent;
• wavy;
• multilevel;
• arched, etc.

According to the type of connection to the wall:

1. Cantilevered (a design typical for canopies over windows or a porch).
2. Having support on the ground. They are used for large structures that create an excessive load on walls or foundations.

By material:

• metal;
• wooden;
• combined.

There are many varieties of roofing, but we will only consider polycarbonate awnings.

Requirements for the design of canopies

A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house is being built for permanent use, so certain requirements must be observed. In particular, the shape of the roof should not impede the runoff of rainwater or snow in winter. At the same time, the places of possible gathering should be located outside the tracks, the parking lot of cars or the possible presence of people. This is most relevant for regions with snowy winters, where heavy wet snow often occurs. The load that it creates is capable of deforming or destroying the structure, so it is necessary to ensure timely sliding of snow masses from the surface. To do this, it is necessary to build inclined or pitched roof shapes.

Important! In cases of using a polycarbonate canopy attached to a private house in a region with an increased amount of snowfall, it is imperative to avoid the use of large flat surfaces.

Canopies and canopies made of polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is considered the most preferred material for roofing. It appeared on the market relatively recently, but in a short time gained high popularity due to its performance. The material has high light transmission, some of its varieties differ little from glass in terms of transparency.

Roofing - polycarbonate

pros

The positive qualities of roofing material include:

1. Light weight. The load from polycarbonate is much lower than from other roofing materials.
2. Elasticity, the ability to bend and take the shape of the base.
3. Transparency, a canopy or a polycarbonate canopy attached to the house does not create a significant darkening.
4. The material can withstand fairly high mechanical loads, due to its elasticity, it is able to withstand shocks.
5. Durability.
6. High frost resistance.
7. Low burning ability. The polycarbonate roof is self-extinguishing.
8. Ease of processing.

Minuses

Among the negative qualities should be indicated:

• High susceptibility to ultraviolet rays. Given the scope, the disadvantage is serious. Manufacturers solve the issue by applying protective films, introducing neutralizing additives into the composition of the material during manufacture.
• Polycarbonate is not resistant to technical hydrocarbons (oils, gasoline, other chemicals of this series).
• The material has the ability to accumulate moisture. For this reason important point it becomes mandatory to seal the ends of cellular polycarbonate with a special aluminum tape that prevents the penetration of water into the cavity.

The set of qualities of polycarbonate allows it to be used on different areas. This is mainly glazing or the formation of transparent surfaces for outbuildings. When installing sheets of material, it is necessary to follow certain rules, use special fasteners and provide thermal gaps to compensate for thermal expansion. It is recommended to hold polycarbonate for some time after purchase to release excess moisture.

Types of polycarbonate

There are two types of polycarbonate:

1. Monolithic.
2. Cellular.

Both types are the same material, but having a different shape.

Monolithic

An example of a canopy made of monolithic polycarbonate

Monolithic polycarbonate is a solid sheet of plastic certain thickness. Outwardly, it looks like ordinary glass, but it has high elasticity, the ability to bend in any direction. The monolithic polycarbonate roof is transparent, does not interfere with the passage of sunlight and does not obscure the space under the canopy. Some users consider this a disadvantage and purchase colored polycarbonate, which reduces the brightness of the sun's rays. Available in different shades:

• red;
• bronze;
• green;
• grey;
• blue;
• blue;
• orange;
• yellow;
• turquoise;
• brown.

The abundance of shades allows you to create a roof with a transparent effect, but a slight change in illumination, all objects under the canopy acquire a reflection corresponding to the color of the coating. In regions with a scorching sun, the use of colored types of polycarbonate can significantly reduce the discomfort from the brightness of the light.

Cellular

An example of a canopy made of cellular polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate is a sheet consisting of two or three thin layers of material, separated by longitudinal perpendicularly installed jumpers. The resulting voids - honeycombs - make the sheets resistant to cold. At the same time, the degree of transparency of such sheets is much less than that of a monolithic material. For use as roofing, cellular polycarbonate is much more preferable, as it is lighter, cheaper, and easier to install.

What to consider when designing a canopy

First of all, you should decide on the material for the frame under the canopy or polycarbonate visor. When choosing it, one must take into account durability, and the ability to maintain its working qualities throughout the entire service life. Best Choice are metal profiled pipes that are easy to connect, have a high bearing capacity and strength. The disadvantage of this choice is the large weight of the structure, which requires the creation of a sufficiently powerful foundation.

Usage wooden parts allows you to create lighter structures that do not create loads on the walls that do not need to equip a powerful foundation. At the same time, the wooden canopy has low strength and is unstable to wind loads. A squally gust is able to tear it off the supporting structure.

Important! An important factor is the cost of the project. It is recommended to determine the order of expenses from the very first steps, so as not to waste time on plans that are obviously inaccessible.

When designing the shape of a canopy, you need to take into account your capabilities and production base. Some options require the mandatory presence of specialists and the use of sophisticated equipment. If there are no such possibilities, it is better to limit yourself to simpler forms.

Be sure to get information about the amount of snow in the winter that falls in your area. The weight of the snow layer can crush a large polycarbonate canopy, so you should consider options with a removable cover, reduce the surface area or increase the angle of the roof. At the same time, it is important to ensure the safe melting of snow so as not to spoil the objects that are under it.

How to make a canopy or visor with your own hands

The manufacture of a canopy from polycarbonate can be conditionally divided into several stages:

1. Creation of a project, working drawing.
2. Acquisition of necessary materials.
3. Foundation arrangement.
4. Manufacturing of the supporting structure.
5. Installation.
6. Roofing installation.

How to make a canopy from polycarbonate with your own hands - step-by-step instruction

The duration and complexity of these stages largely depend on the material and size of the canopy, the method of fastening and other features of the structure frame. The most time-consuming operation is considered to be the creation of a foundation, but often they do without it. If a cantilever type of canopy is used, when one side is attached to the wall of the house, and only two opposite pillars rest on the ground, they are simply poured into concrete cups. Pillars, fence supports, etc. are installed in the same way. A full-fledged foundation is needed only for large sheds with a large roof area and a massive base.

The assembly of the supporting structure is carried out by welding or bolting. Installation will require several assistants, especially when large sizes and weight of parts. Work should be carried out with a serviceable tool in compliance with all safety rules. The frame is fastened to the wall of a house or any other structure using anchor bolts; the pillars are either welded to the foundation or screwed to the embedded embedded parts. You should not save on the strength and stability of the canopy, ensuring the safety of people under it is the main task.

1. Sheets can only be bent along the internal cavities of the material.
2. The material is fastened to special thermal washers installed in pre-drilled holes. It is impossible to screw directly with self-tapping screws, this will cause deformation of the roofing.
3. The ends of the sheets should be protected from water ingress with a special aluminum tape. If this is neglected, the material will quickly clog with dust and look old, untidy.

Installation of a polycarbonate roof is made on a fully installed supporting structure. The frame is preliminarily covered with a protective layer of paint, which must be renewed after installation, especially at welding points or around holes. Before the installation is completed, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of attaching wiring for lighting, the necessary additional nodes for installing various equipment or decorative elements.

"Installation of a canopy made of polycarbonate" video instruction

A light structure on a personal plot will protect from bad weather at any time of the year. Before you start designing, you should carefully review the photo of the polycarbonate canopy. This will allow you to choose the most suitable option.

The canopy is easy to do on your own, it will allow you to save natural light. Under it, just organize a comfortable resting place.

The transparent structure has good mechanical strength and has become an excellent alternative to glass elements in modern construction. The polycarbonate canopy will become ideal solution for car, gazebo, swimming pool. Such a design organically fits into the surrounding landscape.

Benefits of polycarbonate

To build a structure above the entrance to a building or above a car, a composite sheet is used. It bends perfectly, provides a scattering effect. A modern polycarbonate canopy will prevent sound from raining. It washes well, but organic solvents should not be used for it.

Don't forget to visit this helpful landscaping ideas!

Polycarbonate has the following advantages:

• Attractive price.
• The strength and reliability of the resulting structure.
• The ability to get a design of any shape.
• material transparency.
• Not afraid of temperature changes.
• Easy installation.

The disadvantages of the material include the fact that over time, under the influence of ultraviolet rays, its transparency decreases. After 12 years, it becomes brittle.

To obtain a visually monolithic structure, special methods of welding composite elements are used. You can also use glue for this material.

Monolithic polycarbonate looks more presentable, but it is more difficult to process. It needs a solid foundation. It is often used by builders to imitate glass elements.

Calculation and preparatory work

To get a strong visor and frame with minimal costs, you should correctly calculate. To do this, you need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe canopy. It is important to consider that the thickness of the sheet is selected so that it can withstand snow in winter. The reliability of the structure mainly depends on the foundation.

Then the vertical load is set. Many owners of cottages and country houses are interested in how to make a polycarbonate canopy. You can cope with such a task on your own, without involving specialists in this task.

First of all, it is required to develop drawings, on which all dimensions must be indicated. It is also necessary to determine the location of the power elements and their number. It is necessary to take into account the strength of the air currents characteristic of the area where the canopy is installed. If it is mounted for a car, then its dimensions must be larger than the vehicle.

The next step is to determine the thickness of the support elements. Take care of the tools to do the job. The amount of materials you need to purchase depends on the created project.

Before installation, you should take care of arranging the site under it. The most practical solution would be tiles. Before laying it, mark the places where the supports will be installed, which should be poured with concrete. Subsequent operations are performed after 3 days.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopy

In order to properly install the structure, all dimensions of the polycarbonate canopy must be verified. The height of the vertical elements should be the same, a longitudinal beam is laid out on them. It is attached using electric welding. The second beam is mounted on the vertical wall of the building. Metal elements are fixed between them.

A special coating is applied to polycarbonate, which is necessary to reduce the adverse effects of sunlight on the structure of the material. From above, the manufacturer provides a special protective film on the coating, it is removed after installation.

Before laying, the sheets are cut with an electric saw. For fixing polycarbonate, special kits are purchased, which include linings, seals, self-tapping screws.

At the final stage, decorative strips are attached to the canopy, which close the seams. To close the internal cavity of the material from dust and prevent moisture from entering, the side ends are sealed with perforated tape.

Mounting Features

Doing the work yourself will save you money. If you are interested in how to make a polycarbonate canopy, then you need to consider that all work is carried out in accordance with the developed scheme.

This will allow you to build a reliable and durable structure. It looks aesthetically attractive, there is an opportunity to choose suitable color sheets of material.

Competent installation implies the presence of special expansion gaps. Polycarbonate has a high coefficient of thermal expansion. If this condition is not met, then the material quickly loses its performance characteristics. You don't need to overtighten the screws.

For private households, a design can be chosen in which one of the supports is the wall of the house. The material allows you to make a separate structure, for the fastening of which metal elements are used. A practical canopy will decorate household plot, will fit perfectly into the environment.

Photo of a polycarbonate canopy