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Budget repair in the bathroom - 6 stages that will allow you to meet 7500 rubles

Description of the workflow

To better understand all aspects of this topic, I will explain on specific example. So we have:

• a typical room in a nine-story building of the P-44 series;
• the size of the room is 1.7 by 1.7 meters, the ceiling height is 2.64 meters.

We will consider how much the decoration will cost us, I will not touch on the plumbing, since most often if the repair is done as economically as possible, then these elements do not change.

Stage number 1 - competent organization of the process

If you want to save on repairs, then these rules should become fundamental for you:

Another very important recommendation, which directly affects the cost of the project - the use of those materials that are easy to work with and that you can lay or attach with high quality. Many times I completed repairs for those who overestimated their strength and, having completed a small part of the repair, realized that they would not master it. Then, of course, you need to spend a lot of money on the wages of the builder.

Be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and instead of cozy quiet evenings watching TV, you will have to destroy, level, lay, saw, fasten, and so on. There is no free cheese in mousetraps, you will have to pay for the savings with your time, but if you take into service all the tips from this article, then the costs will be minimal.

You must have a work plan in advance in order to make an economical repair from scratch with your own hands, you need to clearly plan each step and accurately calculate the materials so as not to purchase too much. Just read all the sections below, and based on them, you can easily draw up a clear plan.

Stage number 2 - the acquisition of everything you need

I will tell you how the simplest estimate for bathroom renovation is compiled - the sample can be adapted to your room in order to carry out all the calculations. The estimate is a list necessary materials with an indication of their quantity and cost, since we carry out the work ourselves, then it makes no sense to include their cost, unless you assign yourself a financial incentive for a successfully implemented project.

The calculation of the cost is made for the individual parts of the room, we will consider each of them and start with the floor. Linoleum will be laid on the floor, let's figure out how to choose it:

• Since the room is damp, you should purchase options without a base or based on PVC, since it is not afraid of dampness and mold and fungus do not form in it.
• The dimensions of the bathroom are 1.7x1.7, the area is 2.89 square meters, but no one will cut the material according to our sizes, it is sold in running meters. In our case, the optimal width is 2 meters, since there will be the least waste from it, we need 2 linear meters, that is, 4 squares;

• Having called all the retail facilities, I found a PVC-based option, which cost 224 rubles per square meter. Upon inspection, I made sure that the surface is strong without damage and marriage, the substrate is elastic, and the material is . As a result, I paid 896 rubles for 4 squares;
• In order for the joints of the floor and walls to be neat, a plinth is needed, I found a plastic “Comfort” at 56 rubles apiece 2.5 meters long. We need to close 3 walls, and on the fourth there is a door 60 cm wide with 8 cm cashings, that is, the opening occupies 76 cm. The opening is not located in the corner, so on the one hand we need 20 cm of plinth, and on the other 76 cm, we have enough waste from the elements that will go to the walls;

• As a result, you need to purchase 3 skirting board strips for 56 rubles each, 4 inner corners for 35 rubles each and two plugs - right and left for adjoining door frame, they cost 27 rubles. Adding all the results, we get (56x3) + (35x4) + (27x2) = 362 rubles;

• We will use liquid nails to fix the baseboard, I bought a convenient 200 ml tube for 104 rubles.

Now let's summarize all the expenses: I spent 896+362+104=1362 rubles on finishing materials for the floor, compared with conventional projects, the amount is several times less.

We will level the ceiling with putty and paint with moisture resistant white color, so we need the following materials:

• To level the surface, I use the composition "Vetonit VH", which is designed for use in wet areas and guarantees a reliable result. The ceiling did not have significant irregularities, so one bag of composition weighing 20 kg is enough, which costs 456 rubles;

• For painting, we need paint for wet rooms, I chose the latex-based option. You need to apply the composition in 2-3 layers, so I bought a 3 kg package, for which I paid 190 rubles;

• To treat the surface and strengthen it, a primer is needed, I purchased Tikkurila products with a volume of 900 ml for 124 rubles, this is quite enough for our purposes.

Now we summarize all the costs: 456 + 190 + 124 = 770 rubles we need for the ceiling.

Let's move on to the most expensive part - the walls, for them I chose PVC panels 250 mm wide and 2.7 meters long - there will be a minimum of waste. This material is not afraid of moisture, it is easy to wash, so it is suitable for the bath just fine.

Let's figure out what we need to work:

• It is necessary to calculate the number of panels, with their width of 250 mm, you need to divide the length of the walls by this indicator. But we must not forget that on one of the surfaces there is an opening measuring 700x2100, on one side of it there will be one whole panel, on the other three, and above the doors we will need three pieces 540 mm long, that is, we will cut one element. So, on the wall with the door we need 4 whole panels, remember this figure and move on;
• Divide the wall length of 170 cm by 25 cm, we get 7 panels, multiply this result by 3 and get 21 pieces. We add 4 panels from the above paragraph and get 25 elements - so much is needed to decorate the walls in the bathroom. I found products for 127 rubles apiece, the total costs amounted to 3175 rubles;
• For installation, we need components, first of all, this inner corner, these elements are sold in pieces of 3 meters and cost 50 rubles. We need 4 pieces, that is, the costs will be 200 rubles;
• Above, below and along the perimeter of the opening, I decided to put a starting profile, which is sold in pieces of 3 meters, you need 4 elements on top, 2 elements to frame the doorway, you can also join pieces at the bottom, since this part will be closed with a plinth, but you still need 1 whole piece. In total, 7 starting bars are needed, the costs at a price of 45 rubles will be 315 rubles;
• We will mount the panels on a bar measuring 25x50 mm, it will be located horizontally in increments of 30 cm so that the surface is strong and does not sag. With a height of 264 cm, 9 rows need to be fixed, we count in running meters 9x1.7 = 15.3 meters, multiply by 3 whole walls and get about 46 meters;

• Less material will go on the wall with a door, 3 pieces 170 cm long, 6 pieces 80 cm long and 6 pieces about 20 cm long. In addition, you need to nail vertical strips along the opening, 2 pieces 210 cm each for its secure frame. As a result, we get the following result (170x3) + (80x6) + (20x6) + (210x2) = 1530 cm or the same 15.3 meters;
• Summing up all the numbers, we get 61.3 meters, the bar is sold in pieces of 3 meters, that is, we need 21 pieces. We have lumber of this type costs 40 rubles apiece, that is, I spent 840 rubles for the entire volume;
• I will fasten all the elements using a stapler, I will need staples, a package of 1000 pieces costs 45 rubles, and this is quite enough for the job.

• The bar will be fastened with dowels quick installation 6x50, about 200 pieces will go to all the walls, at a price of 25 rubles, the cost is 500 rubles.

Let's calculate all expenses: 3175+200+315+840+45+500=5075 rubles.

For clarity, I will show all the results in a pivot table:

As you can see, a cheap do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is not a fantasy or a fairy tale, while I did not use the cheapest compounds and materials, everything that I purchased is different good quality and attractive appearance.

Stage number 3 - dismantling of old coatings

It is impossible to carry out work without removing the old tile or without removing the worn floor covering. Of course, if you have a floor or ceiling in good condition, then it makes sense to leave them. For example, if the tile on the floor looks normal, then you can freshen up the surface by removing the old grout and filling the joints with a new compound. The same applies to the ceiling: if it is even, then you can remove the old coating and repaint it.

But in practice, most often it turns out like this, then you need to do the floor, and the walls, and the ceiling, so I will consider just such an option, before making repairs on a budget, I will have to sweat to remove the remnants of old coatings.

The following work is to be done:

• On the ceiling, most often old whitewashing or paint that has turned black from time to time. Sometimes there are many layers on the surface, and it takes a lot of time to remove them. I use a scraper, but you can use a spatula, knife and any other device convenient for you, the main thing is that you can remove the old coating;

Old whitewash and water-based paint they will come off much easier if the surface is thoroughly moistened and left for 20-30 minutes.

• As for the walls, they can either have many layers of paint and whitewash, or old tiles. The compositions are cleaned off as described above, but you will have to tinker with the tiles, it is best to use a puncher with a special blade for work. If there is no power tool, then you will have to work the old fashioned way - with a hammer and a chisel, the work is tedious, but one way or another it needs to be done;

• Lastly, the floor surface is prepared, in my case there was linoleum, so the work was simple: I removed the old coating and got a flat surface, completely ready for work. If you have an old tile, you will have to tinker, removing it from the surface, the same tools are used for work as in the paragraph above.

Naturally, you need to take out everything superfluous from the room, you should only have prepared walls left.

Stage number 4 - finishing the ceiling

It is from this part of the bathroom that I advise you to start work for the simple reason that a lot of dust will form in the process, and the putty may fall down. The finishing option that I am considering is the most budgetary - you can achieve an excellent result with your own hands for the simple reason that the ceiling area is small and it will not be difficult to perfectly align it even with a lack of experience.

The instruction for the work looks like this:

• First you need to check the plane with a level or a flat bar to see what irregularities need to be eliminated;
• The surface must be treated with a primer to strengthen it and remove dust, the composition is applied with a brush and dries for about an hour;
• Then the composition is prepared, it retains plasticity for a couple of hours, so I advise you to do no more than 5 liters at a time, your work speed will be low, so you are unlikely to use up more. All the features of mixing the composition are indicated on the packaging, so there should not be any problems with this part of the work;

• The first layer needs to eliminate all significant irregularities, if there are none, then simply putty the entire surface, creating a kind of base, do not worry about stains, they will be eliminated. After the surface dries, the influxes are easily cut off with a spatula, after which you need to check it with the level again;
• The second layer should level the ceiling, try to do the work carefully, there may be sagging on the surface, but the holes should not remain, since they cannot be eliminated. IN last resort, you can walk a third time if the ceiling was uneven and you have to display a plane with large drops;

• After drying, the dirtiest part lies ahead - grouting the surface, bring a respirator and goggles, as when sanding, the dust will fly into the eyes and enter the respiratory tract. In order to control the plane, use a simple trick: hold a light bulb near the surface, it perfectly shows all the irregularities and allows you to perfectly level the surface at one time;
• After finishing work, the surface is cleaned with a brush or broom, after which it can be painted. The work is carried out in 2-3 layers, you can use both a brush and a roller, it all depends on convenience. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Stage number 5 - flooring flooring

When considering how to make a floor economically, linoleum will always be out of competition, not only due to its low price, but also the reliability and durability of the coating. In the bathroom, this coating is placed very simply:

• The surface is cleaned of dust and debris, it can be wiped with a damp cloth to clean as well as possible;
• Next, the material is spread, it will go onto the walls, so you need to place it evenly, after which the excess is cut off with a construction or any other sharp knife. Do this carefully, as it is unlikely that you will be able to glue what is cut off by mistake;

The joint in the opening can be glued liquid nails, but you can close the bar

Due to the fact that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small, plus there will be a bathtub on the surface, there is no need to glue linoleum, but if you want to strengthen the coating, you can use double-sided tape. The plinth will be fixed subsequently, on this this stage can be considered complete.

Stage number 6 - wall decoration

First, a process diagram is presented, and below each stage is described in detail:

• The frame is leveled; when attaching elements, you can put chips and pieces of wood under them to output the ideal plane. A hole is drilled in the bar, then a hole in the wall is drilled right through it and a quick-mount dowel is hammered. You can fill your hand in literally 10 minutes, so the process will go quickly;

• Then, corners are attached in the corners, and a starting profile is attached above and below, as well as around the perimeter of the opening.. The main thing is to accurately cut the bar at the joints so that everything looks neat. Fastening is done using a stapler, it is very fast and very reliable;
• A panel is inserted into the upper and lower guides and wound into a corner, after which it is fixed with brackets to the bars. The work is done until the entire wall is finished, the last plank is cut so that it is 3-4 mm wider, the corner or the starting profile is slightly bent and the element falls into place. Plastic bends well, but you still shouldn’t be too zealous, do everything carefully.

After finishing the walls, you can glue plastic plinth, do not forget to put corners and plugs so that all the elements fit perfectly with each other.

This is a simple example of how to make a cheap bathroom renovation, even if you spend 1-2 thousand more, but still the costs are not comparable to those that you would incur using standard materials and hiring builders.

Conclusion

It is quite possible to transform the bathroom, while spending a little more than 7 thousand, and I showed this with a specific example. I tried to talk about everything in detail so that you can understand the topic, and the video in this article will clearly show some important points to better understand some of the nuances. If you have any questions - write them in the comments below.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

One of the most visited rooms in any house or apartment is the bathroom. That is why it is necessary to approach its repair with special attention and thoroughness. In this room there are the largest temperature and humidity fluctuations, which can negatively affect the overall finish. To get a cozy and functional bathroom, you should select high-quality and reliable building materials. For rational and proper organization bathroom renovation, you need to clearly understand where to start restoration work.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and performing any actions, it is worth deciding on the type of repair. There are such types of bathroom restoration:

1. Unscheduled repair - carried out as a result of an unforeseen emergency(flooding by neighbors or pipe break). At the same time, you can finish with minor cosmetic actions or more global ones with the replacement of communication systems (replacement of pipes for supplying water, sewerage, updating tiles, etc.).
2. The planned repair may also differ in scale and material investments of the owner. Of course, a cosmetic finish will cost much less than a major restoration. In this case, everything depends on the technical condition of the premises and financial possibilities.

In any case, bathroom renovation requires preparation and calculation of all stages of work. To do this, you need to hire a professional estimator who can accurately calculate everything. Only after that you can negotiate with the construction team. But this is not the only option. If you have free time and minimal building knowledge, you can carry out all the restoration work yourself.

It must be understood that the payment for the work of builders is approximately 50% of the price of used building materials. Accordingly, do-it-yourself bathroom renovation will cost at least one and a half times cheaper. It is necessary to prepare for the repair of the bathroom with all responsibility, since it will require not only a lot of knowledge in the construction industry, but also practical skills.

Preparing for a bathroom renovation begins with a study of the prices of building materials and necessary equipment. This will allow you to get a preliminary cost of all work.

Calculation of prices and costs for bathroom renovation

Almost every owner who plans to renovate a bathroom or bathroom asks a completely logical question - where to start? The best solution is the selection of building materials and budgeting. All this will allow you to find out how much each stage will cost. Building materials for a bathroom or bathroom must be selected with great care, as they must meet many requirements.

Of particular importance are the coefficients of moisture absorption and thermal expansion, since large differences in moisture and temperature are observed in this room. Not the last factor is the porosity of the material, since this affects the sanitary and hygienic safety of the entire room. Accordingly, you should not count on the purchase of very cheap materials, because otherwise you will have to re-repair.

It is rather difficult to select the exact parameters that the materials must meet. In addition, it is almost impossible for a non-specialist to understand the huge assortment. Because of this, it is worth choosing building materials that are specially made for bathrooms or for exterior finish premises. Approximate prices for the necessary components for the repair of the bathroom:

1. floor tile domestic production - from 40 rubles / piece with a size (30x30), foreign collections are more expensive - from 60 rubles / piece. As a rule, European models are distinguished by the best decorative elements.
2. Wall tiles have the same cost as floor tiles.
3. Can be used for finishing porcelain stoneware, its price starts from 50 rubles / piece.
4. As Supplies is glue, grout and cross patterns. This is another 50% of the cost of tiles per unit area.
5. Laminate boards - from 300 rubles / piece.
6. Self-leveling floors - from 220 rubles / 10 liters.
7. Hardwood or teak floor - from 500 rubles per square.
8. Polypropylene pipes for cold water- from 24 rubles / meter.
9. Reinforced polypropylene pipes for hot water- from 35 rubles / meter.
10. 50 mm sewer pipes - from 45 rubles.
11. Stop valves and fittings make up about 60% of the price of all pipes.

These are indicative prices for the most necessary materials when renovating a bathroom. By comparing the area of ​​the floor, walls, ceiling and the induced cost, you can approximately calculate the total cost restoration work. When making calculations, the following must be taken into account:

1. The use of cheaper materials can lead to difficulties and delay the work.
2. A reserve of 3-5% should be made for waste and battle. For example, if your area needs 300 pieces of tiles, then it is better to buy 310 or 315 pieces.
3. Similar actions should be done when buying putty, cement, sand, silicone, etc.
4. Depending on the size of the bathroom and the degree of complexity of all restoration work, it will take from 2 weeks to 3 months. This is with the condition independent work. If you hire a team of professional builders, things will go much faster.
5. As for plumbing fixtures, their choice depends on design solution and material resources of the owner.

Adviсe

In addition, experts can give a lot of good advice in this area. So, when hiring a construction team, you should also ask about the price of finishing materials. If they are professionals in their field who have extensive experience in this field, then they will have connections with hardware stores where discounts apply.

Another useful advice regarding the choice of heated towel rail, the most the best option in terms of price and quality are products with of stainless steel. To really save water and electricity, you need to buy a modern faucet with a motion sensor. It turns on only when hands are raised and delivers water at a pre-set temperature. This is far from the cheapest option, but it allows you to save water consumption up to 50% and electricity up to 40%.

As you know, the bathroom is warm room with constantly high levels of humidity, which is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and microorganisms dangerous to human life. Because of this, you should not use structures on the crate, since such niches will sooner or later become a breeding ground for infection.

Based on all the tips and recommendations above, you can choose high-quality building materials at the best price.

Bathroom renovation: where to start. Sequence of work

To spend quality repair in the bathroom for the shortest possible time and affordable price, it is worth carrying out all the manipulations sequentially. step by step plan actions:

• The choice of models and the number of plumbing fixtures that you plan to install.

• Creating a design idea and choosing a color.

• Preparation of estimates for the purchase of finishing materials.

• Preliminary preparation of the premises.

• Inspection of the condition of the floor and the choice of options for its repair.

• Floor repair: insulation, screed replacement, waterproofing.

• Laying pipes for water supply and sewerage.

• Electrical wiring.

• Wall and ceiling decoration.

• Floor finishing.

• Wall cladding, grouting, sealing corners.

• Installation of a ventilation system.

• Installation of plumbing fixtures.

This sequence of work will optimize the entire repair process and understand what needs to be done at a particular stage. We will go over each item in more detail below.

Starting a bathroom renovation

Design and plumbing

This is the very first and important stage in the renovation of the bathroom, since the design also depends on the choice of plumbing fixtures. It must be understood that not only the appearance of the room depends on the model of the sink, toilet bowl or bathroom, but also the accuracy of laying all communication systems. For example, a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, while at the same time it requires the use of perfectly smooth tiles without relief. Otherwise, stains and stains of dirt will remain on the walls. Another option to simplify pipe laying is to install a faucet on the bathtub.

It is impossible to list all the nuances and subtleties. Even in houses of the same type with the same dimensions, you can use various materials, as well as their combination, which, in the end, will bring a special appearance and a difference in costs within 20%. Because of this, it is worth carefully considering the layout and design.

It is also worth understanding that not every idea can be translated into reality in city apartments. For example, to install a mixer built into the wall, you will have to hammer bearing walls which is simply unacceptable.

Bathroom Renovation Materials

Pipes

Today almost no one uses metal constructions, since plastic products are more reliable and affordable. The most optimal option for the bathroom are polypropylene pipes. Sometimes metal-plastic analogies are used, but they are more relevant for the heating system in the house. In addition, polypropylene welds are more reliable than metal-plastic fittings. Because of this, PP pipes can be built into the wall without fear of an accident.

To supply water to the bathroom and create a sewerage system, it is necessary to use pipes made of polypropylene or PVC. Due to this, you can save the budget, simplify the installation process and get really durable structures that require minimal maintenance.

Fittings and fittings for plastic pipes

When creating a pipe system, it is worth using special couplings, fittings for soldering and fastening polypropylene pipes between themselves. It is worth noting that there are a huge number of adapters that allow you to combine different materials. Yes, modern plastic pipes can be reliably connected to metal counterparts. When connecting to metal, use stop valves which is soldered into the plastic. All this helps to avoid system leakage.

Tile

Best choice for bathroom finishing material is a tile because it has excellent characteristics of resistance to humidity and temperature changes. Also unpretentious in care. As floor covering it is better to use porcelain stoneware. This material slightly more expensive than conventional tiles and has a number of advantages. First of all, it is high strength and resistance to stress.

In addition, porcelain stoneware even with smooth surface not slippery, which significantly reduces the degree of injury.

Bathroom tiles are subject to high demands not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a hygienic point of view. At first glance, inconspicuous dirt or specks can become a further breeding ground for bacteria and microbes. Because of this, you should not save on the quality of this building material.

Glue and tools

When starting to lay tiles in the bathroom, you must use a slow drying adhesive - 12-24 hours. This will allow timely elimination of small flaws in self-assembly and improve the quality of the finish.

It is also worth choosing a spatula with a tooth depth, which is indicated in the recommendations on the adhesive package. If such information is not available, spatulas with a tooth height of 3-6 mm should be used. You should not use a coarse-toothed trowel, as high adhesive rusts will lead to the formation of cavities under the tile.

During installation, you will also need a diamond drill for laying pipes and a tile cutter. Do not forget about the templates - plastic crosses. For grouting, use a special trowel or an economical option - a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm. The finishing of the seams is carried out using flannel rags.

The rest of the tool is selected according to standard construction criteria.

Room preparation

How to start preparing a bathroom for renovation. First of all, carry out the dismantling of old plumbing fixtures. The pipes from the supply of cold and hot water are preliminarily disconnected. To avoid problems, shut off the water on the risers.

After that, everything is removed from the bathroom. The result is an empty room with bare walls and floor. The heating system is also turned off and plugs are placed. Next, you need to turn off the power supply to junction box. For lighting, you will have to use portable lamps and extension cords.

After completing all the above manipulations, you can begin to clean the surfaces, starting from the ceiling. If the repair is carried out in the "brezhnevka", then you may be in for a surprise - an insulating box of the room with a GPV, which must be removed. All work should be done very carefully. To avoid the collapse of the ceiling, props are used.

Old wall and floor tiles are removed with a chisel or perforator. Surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned of cement or adhesive residues. The most dusty and unpleasant stage is the removal of the top layer of plaster. To do this, you need to use a drill with wire brush in 80-100 millimeters. If the old finish is loose, it must be removed to brick or concrete.

Where to start renovating the floor in the bathroom

Initially, an audit of the condition of the floor is carried out, which will determine the scope of work. After removing the tiles with a perforator, it is necessary to remove the remains of the cement substrate. If the base is very strong, it can only be removed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

Inspection of the old screed will allow you to determine whether a complete replacement is necessary or it is enough to make a new fill and alignment. The latter option will save time and money on repairs, but it is possible only if the old substrate is in satisfactory condition. In addition, self-leveling floors in a bathroom with a small size are the surest solution. It must be remembered that the thickness of such a floor must be at least 30 mm.

Bathroom floor waterproofing

You can not use ordinary film in this room. The best option is aquaizol or analogues from polyester. To date, this is the most reliable material for bathroom and toilet.

When installing a waterproofing layer, the layers are glued together using mastic or welded with a special industrial hair dryer. The insulating layer must be laid on the walls for at least 25 centimeters with folds in the corners. Only after that you can fill the floor and form a new screed.

self-leveling floor

For a self-leveling floor, a two-component composition should be taken: the initial fill and a viscous layer. After that comes the leveling liquid layer.

A new floor screed must be created with modern and high-quality materials. Expanded clay should not be used as a heater, as it is very hygroscopic. Styrofoam concrete is also not suitable for the bathroom. The most optimal option is glass-magnesite plates. They have high strength, which allows them to be mounted directly on the reinforcing mesh.

For a high-quality floor screed in the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account some features:

1. Cement must have a grade of at least 400.
2. It is necessary to use only sifted quartz sand.
3. The ratio of sand to cement is 4:1.
4. The volume of water is equal to the amount of cement.
5. Also, 10% of the total volume of the PVA emulsion is added to the water.
6. The general formation of the screed is carried out by beacons with a layer thickness of at least 40 mm.
7. After leveling, dotirka is carried out with a smooth trowel.

It should be noted that the new cement-sand screed must dry for at least 40 days. Only after the expiration of this period can the repair work be continued.

Where to start laying communications in the bathroom during the repair?

Open pipes in the bathroom significantly worsen the appearance of the room, and chasing the walls to hide them is quite tedious and dusty. If speak about block house, then such a procedure is simply impossible, since the reinforcement in the slabs will not allow making the necessary niches. In addition, sewer pipes do not have welded joints and must be accessible for inspection in case of blockages.

Pipe laying

Coming out of the above features, all pipes must be run along the bottom of the room in one bundle and closed with special slopes. In finishing, the slopes covering the pipes can be tiled. In addition, these structures are best made removable for quick access. You will also need small strobes, especially for vertical pipes that lead to mixers or a boiler.

Replacement of the pipeline should begin with sewer system. Drain pipes are assembled quite quickly with the help of rubber seals and sealant. You can lay them out in one day. After that, the polypropylene water supply pipes are soldered. For the heating system and heated towel rail it is worth using metal-plastic pipes, which bend perfectly and also settle into niches. As an additional protection, strobes with pipes can be foamed.

Installation of electrical wiring

As mentioned earlier, the bathroom has high humidity, which puts forward special requirements for materials, especially electrical system. The most optimal and reliable option is to use double-insulated wires that are tightened into a protective corrugation. High-quality insulation will create a reliable and safe electrical supply system.

Bathroom renovation: where to start plastering

The process of finishing with plaster should be carried out along the lighthouses, which will allow you to get perfectly flat surfaces for finishing facing. To do this, it is necessary to apply two layers: starting and finishing. In this case, you can not save on materials.

It should be noted that the waterproofing apron should not be cut, it must be glued to the wall with tape and covered with a layer of putty. There are no special recommendations and features for finishing; it is carried out, as in other rooms, from ceiling to floor. It is better to apply the plaster mix in portions.

Bathroom ceiling insulation

Even in very warm houses ceiling insulation in the bathroom or bathroom is a must, as this will reduce the amount of condensate. As you know, excessive moisture is the primary cause of repair. As for the floor, it is worth mounting a LSU layer on the ceiling, which is attached with mounting glue or silicone. For reliable fastening, props are used, one per meter of area.

Features of filing the ceiling of the bathroom

The ceiling is the most vulnerable spot. This requires warm and beautiful design, with high resistance to condensate. For this reason, the best option is plastic lining or ceiling laminate. Mounting Features:

1. The laying of the material is carried out using building silicone or mounting adhesive.
2. When mounting each next board, a thin layer of glue is applied to the tongue of the lock. Any spills are removed immediately with a rag.
3. Latest boards ceiling covering they lay it in a house, and after pressing the middle, they snap into place and fall into place.
4. Before the glue dries, rack supports are used.

These are reliable structures, since they are not only glued, but also connected with tongue and groove locks, which makes it possible to form a one-piece shield. It should be noted that the ceiling finish is carried out before the wall cladding. This is necessary so that the entire ceiling structure is supported by the ends of the wall tiles. All this guarantees a tight and reliable design.

Where to start finishing the bathroom floor

Most good decision for the floor is porcelain stoneware tiles. It is glued end-to-end, without seams. Any spilled adhesive should be cleaned up immediately. A layer of glue is applied in longitudinal strokes with a spatula. For a 30x30 tile, the consumption should be 0.25-0.35 sq.m.

Laying starts from the door so that the cut parts are hidden under the bathtub or the slope of the pipes. The last row with cut tiles should be laid after the main part has dried, so as not to lose the accuracy of the entire coating.

Each laid tile must be tapped with rubber mallet. Thus, they sit well on the glue and move to the free edge. To avoid voids, glue rusts are made shallow and parallel.

Another option for the bathroom is a wooden floor. Such designs are quite warm, and it is even pleasant to step on it with bare feet. Due to the elasticity of the material, it can withstand baths with great weight, which gives another plus in the use of wood. Nevertheless, it is necessary to understand that the installation of such a floor requires more material costs and time.

The best option for the bathroom is larch or teak. Initially, the material is impregnated with PVA emulsion, and as finishing use acrylic lacquer. All this guarantees durability and quality of a design. For installation, grooved materials are used, which are laid similar to the ceiling, and leave an indent of 25 millimeters from the walls. The gap near the wall will allow the wood to move freely when it swells. Before installing the skirting boards, the gap can be filled with polyurethane foam.

Where to start cladding bathroom walls

The best material in terms of price and quality for the bathroom is tile. also in Lately gained popularity finishing with plastic panels. It is an inexpensive and hygienic material.

When installing wall tiles, the seams are cut; for this, template crosses are used when shrinking onto the glue. The technology is practically the same as installation floor tiles. In the tiles through which pipes and electric wires will pass, corresponding holes are made in advance with a diamond crown.

After the glue has hardened, the corners of the tiles are sealed with silicone. After applying the sealant, a piece of cable is applied, pressed and immediately removed. Due to this, silicone perfectly penetrates into the corner, and the seam itself receives a smooth and concave surface. Any spills should be removed immediately with a rag soaked in vinegar.

On the planes, it is also necessary to process the seams with a special compound. At the same time, the crosses are taken out, and the seams are filled with material. To avoid irregularities and errors, you should use a special tool or the same cable.

Installation of electrical, plumbing and ventilation in the bathroom

Installation of plumbing fixtures involves the following steps:

1. Installation of a sink, bathtub or shower.
2. Installation of mixers.
3. Connection of water heaters (if necessary).
4. Replacement of meters for cold and hot water.

As for the installation of the ventilation system, quite often the box removed before repair can be reused. Cleaning and painting will restore the original look. To increase the efficiency of the system, it is worth installing a flapper valve that will not allow cold air to enter the room in winter. If you have free money, you can install more modern ventilation systems, which abound in hardware stores.

The bathroom must have minimal amount electrical appliances because high humidity can disrupt their functionality or even threaten the health of the host. The fixed set includes ceiling lamp, exhaust fan. Of course, in reality, each owner installs more devices, the main thing is that they have excellent protection against moisture.

As for the washing machine, it does not apply to stationary appliances, and its installation is carried out in conjunction with the bathroom.

Conclusion

Doing your own bathroom remodeling can save you a lot of money. But in parallel with this, unprofessional actions lead to errors in the implementation of certain stages. Because of this, it must be said that the options for restoration work depend on the owner himself and his financial capabilities. The main thing is that you already know where to start renovating the bathroom.

I most often try to use large tiles - 300 x 900 mm. Each manufacturer has its own format, but I conditionally rounded it. So, for example, the toilet is best placed in the center of the tile, and the button wall hung toilet to correctly trim, put on a horizontal seam.

The sinks also have many modifications. standard height- about 85 cm. The sink, namely its center, if it is small, should also be placed either in the center of the tile or along the seam.

The tile size of 300 x 900 mm gives a very specific placement of switches and sockets: 1,050 mm from the level of the finished floor, in the center of the tile. If the outlet is at the bottom, near the floor, then 150 mm. It is convenient to make all bindings multiples of these dimensions. The electric heated towel rail is then also tied to this height, since they usually have a lower connection.

By the way, do not take a model with a cord that plugs into an outlet. I use hidden connection boxes and connect them directly. Do not forget that the connection is both right and left.

I also recommend not to do the ceiling until you lay out the tiles. I prefer not to cut, I lay out the walls in an exact and complete amount, say 8 tiles of 300 rather than 8.5. And then I do suspended ceiling from drywall.

Do not forget that if, when laying tiles, you make a seam through a cross, then an extra centimeter of height will come up at the top. Sometimes this is critical. In general, you need to lay the floor first, then the walls. The bathroom, although a technological space, should not forget about its aesthetics. A small tile makes it easier, a larger tile makes it richer.

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Before you make repairs to the bathroom, first you need to carefully plan everything and think over all the options for the location of the bathroom. After choosing a project, it is worth deciding on an algorithm repair work and take all measurements to know the dimensions of the room. So you can accurately determine the amount of materials and understand what the result will be.

How to plan

You need to decide for yourself how your room will look like in the end result, and only then proceed to work:

Modern renovation

When it comes to bathroom remodeling, it’s important to decide where to start. The modern range of building materials is so extensive that you can get lost in the variety of colors, textures and technical characteristics.

The market also offers a large selection of plumbing fixtures of various models and variations, decor and cladding. Everyone can find something for themselves and make the bathroom comfortable and cozy.

Tips from experts to create the interior of your dreams:

Where to begin

The bathroom is a room with high level humidity, possible problems with a ventilation system, frequent temperature changes and lack of natural daylight. Therefore, when repairing, it is worth considering many nuances so that the lining is of high quality and durable.

Renovating a bathroom is quite a financially costly process, so you should be well prepared for it. Preparatory stage includes the following steps:

To start the renovation in the bathroom, we need the following tools:

• Wide spatula.
• A bucket or other container for diluting the solution.
• metal rule.
• Paint brush.
• Roulette and pencil.
• Sharp scissors.

After we turned off the water in the bathroom, we dismantled old finish and knocked down the old tiles from the walls and floor, plumbing and pipes, prepared all surfaces, removed all interfering objects from the room, you can proceed with the installation of waterproofing, floor screed and other important activities:

Professionals advise strictly following the sequence of repair work and preparation for them: leveling surfaces, eliminating unnecessary things and old finishes, cleaning dirt, connecting electrical and plumbing, plumbing and lighting fixtures. The result of a quality initial stage repair is shown in the photo.

Now you know the sequence of actions and you can independently start planning repairs in your bathroom. The initial stage of repair work is the most responsible and important, so it is worth approaching it responsibly and seriously. Following the recommendations, you will perform a quality rough finish and get the desired result.

Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet.

To start repairs in the apartment, according to most finishers, you should definitely start from the bathroom. I will explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the repair, requiring not only dismantling old tiles, plumbing, doors, and sometimes completely the walls of the bathroom.

We remove the old

So the first thing we do is we take out the old plumbing: a bathtub, a sink, a toilet bowl ... In short, everything that costs, weighs, lies.

Next stage: we cut off with the help of a grinder all the old pipes to the tap located on the riser.

Using a perforator, we knock down the old tile.

It is important if the plaster under the tile moves away from the wall, bunit ... it must also be beaten off.

We dismantle old door along with the box.

We change the risers. Now we turn our attention to plumbing and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the repair and it is necessary to change them. After the renovation it will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but you can do the internal plumbing yourself.

Checking the hood. Let's move on to the extraction. If we do not want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its work by the tongue of the flame: the better the hood works, the more intense the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood does not work correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.

Preparing walls and floors

We prime the walls. At the next stage, I suggest a good clean up: take a broom and sweep out all the debris and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take a deep penetration primer and prime the walls.

Installing beacons. After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Lighthouses must be installed strictly according to the level, observing the plane of the wall and maintaining 90-degree angles.

Plastering the walls. Beacons installed? Let's get to the plaster. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a mixer nozzle for a drill. Bathrooms are plastered, as a rule, with dry gypsum mixtures, since there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. We take a bucket of 12 liters and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, we throw a solution between the beacons of one wall 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it to the lighthouses and pull it up - we get a flat surface. We remove the excess from the rule. And so on all the walls - from the floor to the ceiling. There are not large pits left, it does not matter - then we level it with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, then you have coped with the task.

Leveling the floors. The next step is the floors. We level them with the help of "self-leveling floors". We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, even a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor with a spiked roller. After drying, the walls and floors, just in case, we check by level, we eliminate unevenness.

We make a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? How? and at what height? there will be a bath, a sink, a mirror, a washing machine (if any), a towel dryer, a toilet bowl, a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call it a bathroom plan. In order for the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to the size (I mean that your bathtub is not half a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then you need to buy a bathtub as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. - you need to buy a bath for 1m.70cm. Then 2 cm. let's go through. This seems to have been sorted out.

Video - turnkey bath repair

We make (draw) a detailed marking of the water supply and sewerage. If everything is purchased, then we continue. We collect a bath in a free room. We put it on its legs and level it. As a rule, for most bathtubs, the height of the legs is adjustable - we adjust the height for ourselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the wall in the bathroom. All the same - we do the same with the sink and washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how we will have water supply and sewerage. The bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bath - this should also be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes leading to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the plumbing for the sink, based on the structural features of the bedside table, and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. Under washing machine we mark only one pipe - cold. Sewer pipes sketch at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a small slope can be made under the bath and sink, then under the washing machine the output should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.

Making (drawing) a detailed layout of electrical wiring. The next thing we do is determine the electrical wiring. How many sockets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric razor - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to bring a wire under it (decide at what height). There will be a fan - we bring it out under it.

We make strobes. When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a perforator and gouge according to the plan. Next, we clean up and primer the strobes.

We install plumbing and sewerage. At the next stage, we mount the water supply (comb) and sewerage. Don't forget to install water meters and filters as well. Since our water supply is retracted into the walls - use better pipes from polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

We mount a heated towel rail. At the next stage, we invite craftsmen or install a heated towel rail ourselves. Pipes are also mounted in the wall.

We mount the box. So we still have not closed risers, and we fix it. Assembling a box from metal profile and sew it up with drywall. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it Green colour. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, you will need it to have access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.

Priming the walls and floor. As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look at everything in detail for the presence of irregularities. If there are any, we fix it with a spatula and sandpaper.

Laying out the floor. Now lay out the floor tiles. For this we need - a drill, a mixer, a bucket, an ordinary spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm.).

We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathtub and sink. So in sight we will have only a whole tile. Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.

We lay out 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor. Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use a small tile, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be enough.

We wipe the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).

Installing a bath. It's bath time. We bring the bath, set it strictly according to the level and length and width. Let's break down the bath.

Laying wall tiles. Laying out wall tiles. We start right from the bath, from the most prominent corner, and drive in a circle. From the sides of the bath, you need to drill the slats so that all the tiles go on the level. Finish the top, remove the slats and report the bottom. Let the tile dry and remove the crosses.

We clean the seams.

We overwrite the seams.

We mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, hanging from plastic panels, tension. They are all good in their own way, you choose.

We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, bath screen.

It remains to hang a mirror, put sockets and the bath is ready.

This order of work will prevent you from making the most common mistakes, where the quality of the work done suffers, and sometimes leads to redoing.

Happy repair!