Chainsaws:. Installation guide, cutting functions, how to dissolve at home, price, photo
Sawing logs with a chainsaw: what do you need for this?
Some people have the opportunity to take a certain area in the forest for registration in order to dissolve the trunks, but how will a chainsaw dissolve a log on the boards if this has never happened? Those who have been engaged in logging for a long time can do it without any devices. they only need to reflect a longitudinal line on the trunk and use it to cut a strip or board.
But if you have never done this, you will need certain adaptations, which we will now describe and also show the topics in this article.
Cutting logs on chainsaw saws on wood fell
Dissolve the trunk on the board
The note. To cut the trunk into logs, you may need a sawmill or an electric or chainsaw with bench lights.
What do you need for this?
Chainsaw. most accessible tool In addition, there are a number of reasons:
- sawing trunks can be done directly for logging. It does not require any fixed or autonomous sources power supply, only one tool;
- compared with electric saw, gasoline has much more power. which is key point longitudinal dissolution of logs;
- he has smooth start and soft speed control. therefore, the risk of breaking the chain during operation is reduced to almost zero (this, of course, is possible, but you need to try very hard for this);
- compared to a sawmill, the price of a gasoline-powered tool is several orders of magnitude lower;
- compared to the electrical unit, the inertial braking is much higher here;
- time of intensive use. The instruction manual allows you to stretch it up to 1 hour;
- It is possible to work with high humidity (rain, fog)
Adaptation to trunking
As we have already said, experienced sawmills can cut logs without any devices, but for beginners, you need to make the log fastening machine, saw frame for saws and smooth cutting guide by yourself.
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It should not be forgotten that during such work the tool experiences very heavy loads. Therefore, if you want to do this professionally, then naturally you will need an appropriate model, that is, the most powerful one.
Professionals name the most popular and best options, this is Stihl MS-660 or Stihl MS-880. These units produce over 7 horsepower to ensure smooth operation under heavy loads.
Device for longitudinal cutting of logs and beams
Manual sawmill do it yourself. Scheme and sizes here Homemade device For
Sawing device logs on the boards chainsaw.
Frame parts
To adjust the thickness of the saw plate to the bar, a special steel frame is applied, which allows you to adjust the distance from yourself to the bar.
The frame is ready. view from different angles
To make such an angle, you can buy a 20×20mm square steel tubular profile, but you can also use available material. For example, aluminum legs from an old school desk work best here.
A thick board was used as a guide
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IN as a guide To make something like a stationary machine, you will need some kind of rigid metal, most likely steel, profile, or a thick flat board under a log, as shown in the top photo. In fact, it looks exactly like the picture. two trestles are installed, and a guide (board or profile) is placed on them.
But it should be borne in mind that such a device can only be used for short logs, since if it is increased (the distance depends on the thickness of the guide), there will be a deviation that will lead to a different thickness of the material being manufactured.
Timberjit Coarse Mill Machine
The thickness of the slab or saw will only be level if a template is used to drive chain saw. leading ruler or guide. For this purpose, it is very convenient to use the Swedish “Big Timbergit Mill”, which you see above. it costs about 9-10 thousand rubles.
It is up to you to decide whether you need such a device, but once you have spent, you will receive a compact device that, along with the saw, can be delivered to the site on a motorcycle.
To get started, you will need a push-pull saw and a bar with two nuts. With you will be able to open magazines with a diameter of up to 60 cm. In this situation you will have to purchase a chain for longitudinal sawing the trunk, but if you do not get it for some reason, then sharpen a regular chain at an angle of 10 °.
The Timberjeet Big Mill includes many parts to help you patch and fix your wood guide. It turns out that when the chain saw runs along this guide, the frame slides and the bar does not go to the side.
The note. Whatever type of wood you process, in any case, the chain is dull, and in order for the sawing process to proceed without problems, it should be sharpened periodically.
Frame mounted on a guide
Sawing a chain saw is a process
Now let's see how to cut the magazine into boards:
- first we make a guide. we take two equal edgings wooden planks and fasten them together in the form of a half-level;
- from pieces of the same boards we make stops for guides with a half slope. fasteners included;
- We roll the log with a tilting machine and put it on a pre-prepared comfortable base;
- secure the frame with nuts;
- after that we attach the supports. which hold the ruler at the ends of the magazine, checking its horizontal level;
- fixing all fasteners. since the nails will be extremely difficult to pull out at the end of the job;
- we check that the cutting line does not run along the ruler, but 10 mm higher;
- start the saw and make the first cut;
- release the log from the stops and rebuild the structure on the next cut line so that it turns perpendicular (90⁰) to the finished cut;
- now turn the beam again and secure it with boards until it rests on the ground. the ruler will no longer be useful to you, it will be replaced by the previously made cut.
Conclusion
Of course, cutting magazines on a whiteboard at home is not limited to these two devices. If you do it yourself, you will need to make a trunk, and then with the help of a frame you can assemble boards of any thickness.
For the assembly of joinery, dowels, round plug-in spikes are often used. When making furniture at home, it is easier to work with dowels; there is no need to cut out tenons at the ends of the parts and hammer in sockets.
Dowels, that is, round blanks, are sold in stores and there is even a choice of diameters. Only the accuracy is not enough, but to do quality furniture It is necessary to precisely adjust the dowels to the diameter of the socket.
You can make dowels yourself using a hand router and drill.
To get started, we will need square bars with a cross-section of 0.5-1 mm. more than the desired diameter of the dowels. For example, for the manufacture of dowels with a diameter of 10 mm. , the bars will fit with a section of 11/11 mm. , or 10.5/10.5 mm. .
You can round the edges of the workpieces manual router, installed “in the table”. We place the cutter under the rounding and set the height to the cross section of the bars.
The cutter should cut off less than half of the block, there is no need to be greedy.
To hold the dowel while working, comb-shaped clamps are useful.
On a planed strip, cut the end at an angle and make cuts one after another, like a comb.
We fix the clamps to the router table with clamps at the entry of the part. We go through each workpiece on the router from all four sides.
As you can see, it doesn’t have a perfectly round cross-section, but we don’t need that. We simply prepared the material for further work.
To cleanly process dowels to the required diameter, you need to make a small device. We take a planed block of wood hard rocks and make a conductor.
From the side of the edge we drill through holes to hold the workpiece. The hole has two diameters, the entrance one is 12 mm. and output 10 mm. . An expanded entrance is needed to install the primary workpiece, and the exit is exactly the diameter of the dowel.
We cut the upper part of the block at an angle so that part of the hole is exposed on the cut plane large diameter. On the cutting area, place a wide, sharp chisel at an angle and fix it together with the block with clamps or a vice.
We clamp the workpieces, slightly rounded on the router, at one end into the drill chuck, insert the other end into the inlet hole, start the drill and pass through, pressing the block inward.
The drill with the dowel must be held exactly in the direction of the hole channel.
You may first need to adjust the height and installation angle of the chisel to the exact specified diameter. But then we will be able to make any number of identical, perfectly accurate dowels in diameter.
In this way, you can make dowels of different diameters, but for each diameter you will need a separate block with the necessary holes.
Idea from woodgears.ca
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Every year the range of lumber is only increasing, and the types of products for construction wooden house or cottages are getting closer to ideal. But what to do with simple non-profiled timber, which is gradually being replaced by its brothers - laminated veneer lumber and profiled timber. After all, use an inexpensive option edged timber much cheaper. Craftsmen solve this problem in their own way.
How to make profiled timber with your own hands, saving money?
There are several options for making profiled timber from ordinary timber, which allows you to save money and get more quality material for construction. All you need is a little patience and free time, as well as the ability to handle some tools.
Many people ask questions: “Is there any point in making profiled timber with your own hands?”, “Maybe it’s easier to buy a ready-made one?” Definitely a purchase finished material much easier. However, there are many reasons why the production of profiled timber is especially important:
- The profile must be of such a geometric shape that it is not blown through. Moreover, you are doing this only for yourself, which means your profile will be made with high quality.
- By making profiled timber yourself, you will save 3-5 thousand rubles from each cube of material. Of course, much more time will be spent.
- Walls made of this material do not require additional finishing, since the insulation will be invisible.
- The crowns can be made more accurately, and the connecting ones will fit as tightly as possible to each other.
Which profile is better?
When choosing a profile, it is better to calculate your skills and strengths. Making a profile on a block on your own – it just seems a simple matter. It takes a lot of perseverance and time to carry out such a task more efficiently. When choosing a profile, you should focus on the most simple designs. To implement them, you don’t have to use many types of tools and you don’t have to do a lot of calculations.
Carefully read GOST 9330-76 “Basic connections of parts made of wood and wood materials", it will allow you to calculate everything correctly. As a rule, two types of profiles are made: profiling through a triangle or profiling through a rectangle.
It is important to understand that before making a profile, you need to calculate its height, depth and width. Moreover, for each section of timber it is different and GOST helps. Be that as it may, when building a house from this timber, insulation (at least 5 cm thick) is laid between it.
How to make profiled timber with your own hands: methods
- Using a cutter.
This is perhaps the easiest way. The milling cutter must be powerful, at least 1.5 kilowatts, and have a special attachment. If the profile is simple, then the radius of the cutter used will be 4-5 cm. If it is complex, then it is produced by several types of cutters. If desired, you can even make a D-shaped side of the beam with this tool. But here you will also need an electric planer and a sander.
Everything directly depends on what kind of manufacturing precision you plan to achieve as a result. The very concept of “profiling” implies the cleanliness and accuracy of the surface. The advantages of this option: if you use a sharp milling attachment, then you can do without subsequent grinding.But this option also has disadvantages:
- a milling machine is quite expensive (5-10 thousand rubles);
- It is not always possible to buy the right attachment; it may not exist for the milling machine that you have in stock.
Well suited for cutting straight grooves.
- Usage circular saw.
A good way to make the connection yourself is to use the tools at hand. For example, using a hand-held circular saw. Such a tool will cost you 3-5 thousand rubles (the price depends on the manufacturer). The main thing is that it can be sawed at the required angle and make a cut of 65 mm.
Advantages of this method:
- the ability to control the accuracy of cutting in depth;
- easy execution of a smooth and straight groove;
Flaws:
- It will not be possible to clean the groove using this tool;
- there may be insufficient cutting depth;
- each time the cutting depth needs to be re-adjusted;
- low speed when working.
It is best to use it to cut out a triangular groove.
In both options, this is painstaking and lengthy work that requires preliminary measurements and accuracy.
Of course, you can successfully combine these tools with each other. For example, if you need to make a rounded quarter, first cut it with a saw and then round it with a router. Do not rush to throw away sawing waste, as it will be useful for joining the timber.
- Corner connection of timber.
- connection in a warm corner;
- two-way or one-way simple connection.
All connections are made in accordance with GOST 30974 - 2002. As for the choice of cutting bowls, here you need to build on your own knowledge and skills.
Tools you will need: milling machine or a chainsaw with a special device, marking templates, a pencil, an axe, a tape measure and a hammer drill. A hammer drill is used to drill holes for dowels.
Two-way or one-way connection
With a double-sided connection, the bowl is cut out on both sides; with a one-sided connection, the bowl is cut out on one side.
At the end of the beam, it is necessary to measure a distance in width equal to the width of the beam, and in depth - half the section. Making such a connection will not be difficult. Next, the beams are stacked on top of each other. This connection is often called “cold”. This design requires at least 5 cm of insulation.
Connection in a “warm corner”
It should be said right away that it is not easy to do. This requires precision and special skills. But a warm corner is able to retain heat better and allows you to make the corners smoother.
There are several types of “warm corner” connections that you can make with your own hands: a connection with a main tenon, a keyed connection.
Make templates according to which the timber will be marked. For example, you can make it from wooden slats. Next you need to attach a template and make 3 cuts with a chainsaw on required depth. Next, use an ax to chop off the excess along the cut. Protect the finished groove. It is important that the cuts have a large size, namely, they are half the cross-section of the original material. Thus, it compensates for them during the shrinkage of the house.
The tow is placed tightly between the joints. Caulking the “warm corner” after installation will be much more difficult. Using metal or wooden dowels, connect the crowns. Made from leftovers wooden dowels. When drying the timber, the iron pins will be visible, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance.
Wooden dowels are made with a diameter of 20-30 mm, sharpening them on one side. If you do them earlier, they will dry out by the time of construction. You can also make square dowels, which will be even easier to make. Moreover, it should have a diagonal larger diameter drill used by 4-6 mm. The length of the dowel should be equal to 1.5 times the thickness of the timber. When drilling holes, you need to take this size into account, but add another 2 cm.
You should not drill them close corner connections, since when hammering in the dowels, chips may form. Such holes must be located in increments of 1.5 m and at a distance of 250 mm from the end.
It will be difficult to make such a warm corner yourself, especially the first time. This requires skills and ability to work with timber. However, if you have time left, you can practice on a thick board or old material.
As you can see, you can make profiled timber with your own hands, but it is quite long and painstaking. If you have the patience and time, doing this work yourself can save you money. However, if you do not have sufficient skills, we recommend sparing your strength and nerves by purchasing ready-made timber with cut bowls.Since ancient times, the construction of houses and baths was made using log houses. This is one of the oldest technologies that has survived to our times and is in demand among developers. Such designs have increased environmental friendliness, and thanks to natural material a special microclimate is created.
Logs from coniferous species, which are used in manufacturing, have a beneficial effect on the nervous and cardiac systems. But how to build a log frame and what material is best to choose - this question remains open, since laying and cutting is a purely individual job.
Some features
Work on the manufacture of the system is done almost manually; erecting structures using timber is easier, since the logs need to be cut through the gutter and collated. When installing, logs must be of the same cross-section.
The log house is technological process in construction, where logs are used as a material. This name also applies to the house itself. Making a log house from round timber is considered the most economical option.
The structure is durable, resistant to seismic changes (unlike brick). Additional processing of logs protects against moisture and damage by insects. Before considering how to make a log house from round timber, you need to familiarize yourself with its properties and choose suitable material for construction.
Houses built from round timber are not exposed to the external environment.
In addition, they are durable because hand-processed logs retain their protective layer, while logs that have been rounded do not have a protective layer. Log houses installed using round logs have an individual appearance due to different diameters, and when laying them they alternate. Baths look especially good when using round timber.
Houses built from rounded logs have excellent thermal insulation. They are warm even in the deepest frosts and cool when it is very hot outside. The installation of houses of this type is carried out quite quickly, since the logs are processed on woodworking machines and are ready for assembly. They are made exactly to measure and fit well together. After installation, such buildings do not require additional insulation.
Glued laminated timber is considered much stronger than solid wood. There are no cracks in it, and the knots look pretty decent. Such timber is coated with special natural impregnations that protect the wood from moisture and insect damage. In addition, they make it resistant to ultraviolet rays and difficult to ignite. Concerning financial side houses made of this material, then building a log house from timber will be much cheaper than from natural logs.
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Log house made of timber: characteristics
A timber frame is made from material natural humidity and is cut at the place of its installation. The installation technology consists of laying beams on top of each other, and the use of dowels imparts rigidity to the structure.
The dowel looks like a round stick with a cross section of 25-30 mm made of durable wood such as birch or oak. Drills in several beams simultaneously through hole, into which the dowel is driven.
The hole is made 50-70 mm longer than the length of the dowel, this is necessary so that when the log house shrinks, the crowns do not hang and gaps do not form between them. The gap between the dowels should be up to 2 meters.
Install dowels near corners, as well as at door and window openings, maintaining a distance of at least 10 cm from the edge. When installing between the beams, it is necessary to lay insulation, which is jute, flax tow or moss.
Cold corners located on the north side are connected with tenons, but if the corners are warm, then they are joined with grooves.
To assemble a log frame, you often have to join them, since the main working length is 6 m. The beams can be joined in 3 ways:
- A horizontal joint is when a part of one beam is superimposed on another. This joint is cold, because when applied, a gap is formed from the outer to the inner edge.
- A vertical joint is considered to be the imposition of one beam on another in a vertical position, and the joint is formed warm.
- The beams are joined at the end side, and a flat tenon is made in the inner part of the joint. This joint is also warm.
Once the entire frame is assembled, only after that the window and door openings are cut out. In the center of the openings, to avoid deformation during shrinkage, it is necessary to lay timber.
