Hi all. Nylon Drumsticks I bought out of pure curiosity what it is and what they are eaten with. Briefly: they correspond to the size 5A, a little longer, while being heavier than oak sticks, they uncomfortably flex and spring when played. Compared with wooden sticks the drums sound much quieter and muffled, but the cymbals sound even louder due to the greater weight of the nylon sticks. After each hit on the cymbal, decent dents remain on the sticks. Hardly suitable for anything other than training hands on a drum pad
What are drumsticks made of? On sale there are both classic - wooden, and with nylon tips, and carbon, and hybrid, with interchangeable shoulders and heads (Ahead). But somehow I didn’t meet nylon ones, so I became curious what kind of sticks they were, how they behave.
I ordered the cheapest option that I found on aliexpress, since I didn’t notice a visual difference with the more expensive ones. For about a month, a package was traveling to me, without a track number, in a simple package, for which you don’t even need to sign at the post office. The packaging was simple, a bag and a couple of wraps of bubble wrap.
Here's what these sticks look like:
Comparison with 5A Vic Firth maple sticks. As you can see, the nylon sticks are slightly longer, although the shape of the shoulder is very close.
The head of the sticks is pointed, I would say, too pointed:
The handles of the sticks are corrugated, apparently so that they do not slip out of the hands. But for me it would be better if they were smooth, such a surface can tear the skin off your hands. If the wooden sticks are too smooth, I usually work them lightly in the grip area with a fine sandpaper and they no longer slip. With corrugation, they obviously overdid it.
Now about the sensations when playing with these sticks, and about the sound. Sticks by weight are noticeably heavier than wooden ones, even oak ones of the same dimension 5A. The effect of “heaviness” when playing is also enhanced, since the sticks are more elastic than wooden sticks, noticeably bend when swinging and spring when struck, even perhaps stronger than bamboo ruts, such as in the review, and these are the most flexible rutes that I have met.
The sound of drum beats, compared to wooden sticks, is much quieter and muffled, apparently just because of their elasticity. But the sound of hitting the cymbals is even louder than that of wooden sticks, as I understand it, due to the greater weight of nylon ones. Therefore, when playing them, a discrepancy between the volume of drums and cymbals catches your eye, or rather, your ears, the drums are too quiet, the cymbals are too loud. That is, you can’t play quietly, like ruts, or you need to additionally jam the cymbals. Maybe these sticks are indispensable in some exotic style, where the cymbals must be much louder than the drums, but I do not know of such.
Here is a short video showing the difference in sound between wooden and nylon sticks. Unfortunately, it was done very spontaneously, without preparation, I didn't think in advance what exactly to play, so that the difference in the sound of the sticks would be the most noticeable. Therefore, the demo video turned out to be shorter than planned, but I have no opportunity to shoot a second take in the near future.
On the video, I didn’t knock, to put it mildly, not powerfully, since the installation is in a residential building, and I generally try not to play with sticks at home. If played more dynamically, the sound of the drums would be deeper and fuller, the snare drum would have less string cracking and more tom sound. But I think that the difference between the sound of wooden and nylon sticks can be understood, although the difference is less pronounced in the recording. The sound was recorded on a Zoom H4n recorder, located on a tripod near the drummer's head.
As I said, I do not see the use of these sticks in drumming, primarily because of the discrepancy between the volume of cymbals and drums. It is quite possible to get used to the elasticity of these sticks, but artificially forcing the pitch in the drums and holding back when playing the cymbals is too much. It is certainly possible, but why?
The following pictures show the dents that formed on the shoulders of the sticks after, one might say, ten seconds of playing during video recording.
Even the most low-quality wooden sticks are covered with similar dents with much more dynamic playing. And with nylon, I just gently stroked the plates, and as a result, such dents. What would happen to them after an hour of playing in a heavy style, I’m even afraid to imagine, most likely they simply won’t survive this hour. I don't want to set up such an experience, because I think to try to use these sticks for training hands on the pad, they seem to me suitable for this.
To be honest, I'm a little sorry for the money spent on these sticks, since I most likely will not find any use for them. I also regret that I did not buy sticks, for example, yellow or Green colour, it would be funny. It would not change the essence, but they would be a little more beautiful.
Thank you for your attention.
I plan to buy +2 Add to favorites Liked the review +24 +36The structure of the drumstick
Komel– the balance area of the wand.
Body- the largest part of the stick, serving as a gripping point and striking part when hitting a rim shot
Shoulder- the area of the stick often used to hit the crash. The alternation of strikes with the end of the stick and the shoulder on the hi-hat creates the basis for leading the rhythm. The length and thickness of the taper affects the flexibility, feel and sound of the stick. Sticks with a short, thick taper feel more rigid, provide more durability, and produce a stronger sound than sticks with a long, narrow taper, which tend to be more brittle and flexible but sound more delicate.
Neck plays the role of the transition of the stick from the shoulder to the tip and allows you to identify the point of the beginning of the tip and the end of the shoulder of the stick. Thus, it serves as a connecting link between the tip and the shoulder. The shape of the neck is predetermined by the shape of the shoulder and tip.
Tips drumsticks are various shapes and sizes. The size of the head determines the intensity, volume and duration of the resulting sound. There are so many forms of tips that sometimes it is far from an easy task to accurately group the sticks according to the type of tips. In addition to variations in shape, tips can vary in length, size, processing, and material.
There are 8 main types of tips:
pointed tip(pointed or triangle-tipped)
Style, scope: jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, swing, etc.
It has a larger area of contact with the plastic than the round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “blunts” sound production errors. Produces a medium fill sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.
Round tip(ball tip)
Style, application: Perfect for studio work, playing in a symphony orchestra, as well as for playing light jazz, both with symmetrical stick grip and traditional.
Focuses the sound (which is clearly audible when playing cymbals) and significantly reduces the change in sound when struck at different angles of the stick. Suitable for bright playing and clear sound production. The small round tip produces a highly focused sound and is especially delicate with cymbals. Sticks with a large rounded part of such a tip produce a fuller sound. Such a tip "does not tolerate" errors in sound production and is suitable for use by drummers with a correctly set beat.
Barrel tip(barrel tips)
Style, scope: light rock, jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, etc.
It has a larger area of contact with the plastic than the round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “blunts” sound production errors. Produces a medium fill sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.
Tip cylindrical shape (cylindrical tip)
Style, Application: An excellent choice for drummers who play a variety of styles, from rock and metal to jazz and pop. Often used for styles such as: rock, rock'n'roll, hard rock smooth jazz, swing, ambient, easy listening, etc.
First of all, it is designed for powerful, rhythmic and loud playing. Due to the large area of contact with plastic, they emit a dull, muffled, open, diffused, not sharp sound. Also suitable for soft quiet play. Produces a dull medium attack sound.
Olive tip(olive-shaped tip)
Style, scope: trash metal, gothik metal, hard metal, rock, jazz, fusion, swing, etc. with a lot of down-beats on the cymbals.
Thanks to its rounded shape, it performs well when playing fast in the style of speed metal. This tip is recommended for teaching primary hand placement. Great for alternating fast up-down playing and slow down playing with concentrated (directed) strikes on both cymbals and drums for soft, focused sound production. Due to the “bulge” it allows you to control the sound and the area of contact with the surface of the instruments in a very wide range, depending on the angle of the stick to the surface of the instrument. Such a tip produces a full low sound, spreads energy over a wider area (compared to a round or triangular tip), thus increasing the life of the heads. A good choice for those who play hard. When playing cymbals, it gives a surround sound.
Oval-shaped tips(oval tip)
Style, scope: rock, metal, pops, marching music, etc.
Suitable for loud, heavily accented playing with a powerful sound attack. Recommended for marching drums and for performances on large stages, in stadiums.
Teardrop tips(teardrop tip)
Style, scope: swing, jazz, blues, fusion, etc. Often the choice of jazz drummers. Light and fast sticks with this tip are an ideal choice for playing in an orchestra and jazz ensemble.
Produces a full high-pitched sound, spreads energy over a narrower area; Produces a rich cymbal sound with a focused sound attack. Recommended for dull-sounding accents when playing at slow and medium tempos. It has a good rebound, designed for clear and sharp blows. Perfect for soft, accented sound production, especially with symmetrical grip. Ideal for emphasizing the ride with up-down strikes, such as when leading a swing rhythm with a stick head. Also recommended for heavy speed-metal and especially for training exercises.
Acorn shaped tips(acorn tip)
Style, scope: rock, metal, pops, funk, swing, jungle, blues, etc.
Produces a fairly bright, powerful sound with a low attack. Shows a good degree of clarity and articulation when hitting the ride. Good for abrupt transitions from powerful loud playing to quiet rhythmic pulsation. Good for traditional and symmetrical grips.
Choice of sticks:
The choice of sticks depends on what kind of music you will play. But the choice of material, size, shape and tip is mostly personal preference.
The stick should feel comfortable in your hand and be suitable for producing the sound you want to achieve. For example, 7A sticks may be good for a small venue but not at all suitable for a street drum band.
Choose sticks that are comfortable for your hands and suit your playing style. Feel the sticks. Hold them in your hands.
The size of the wand should match your hand, both in diameter and length (often the length of a suitable wand is determined by the distance from the inner bend of the elbow to the tip of the ring finger). If the sticks fit comfortably in the palm of your hand, then you will be able to get exactly the sound you want from the drum.
Try a few different chopsticks to compare before you decide to buy one in particular. When you have already accumulated enough experience, you will probably choose for yourself certain brand and the ideal model that best suits you.
Factors to consider when choosing sticks:
Type of wood. From right choice wood will affect the sound and durability of the sticks. The texture of the tree should not be pronounced, otherwise such sticks will quickly break.
Wood structure(dense, soft); it depends on the wear of the sticks.
wood hardness- resistance of wood to a change in shape (deformation), or destruction in surface layer under force influences. Hardwood gives a brighter tone, more attack and spread, which many people like.
Density- the ratio of the mass of wood (the amount of wood substance) to its volume. Density is the most important indicator of strength: the heavier the wood, the greater the density and strength it has.
No two trees are the same, hence the density of a tree differs from log to log and even within the log itself. This explains why some sticks feel solid and powerful while others feel hollow despite being the same brand and model. The density of wood also depends on its moisture content.
Treatment. By finishing sticks exist:
polished without any coverage. During the grinding process, significant irregularities are removed from the surface of the sticks with abrasive materials, usually emery. At the same time, the natural roughness of the wood texture is preserved, which contributes to a better grip between the hand and the stick, as well as the absorption of excess moisture. But at the same time, such sticks are more susceptible to destruction, unlike varnished ones.
Lacquered. Lacquer transparent coatings protect the wood from moisture and dust, give the surface a beautiful intense even sheen, and texture - contrast. Coating the sticks with varnish makes their surface more durable. Lacquered sticks look a little worse than polished ones.
polished. upper class Finishing sticks is polishing - leveling previously applied layers of varnish on the surface and giving the wood a distinctly visible texture. When polished, the surface of the sticks becomes durable, mirror-smooth and shiny by applying the thinnest layers of polish to it - an alcohol solution of vegetable resin.
Some drummers do not like varnished and polished sticks, as they can slip out of sweaty hands when playing.
Wood moisture is the percentage of moisture in the wood.
As a rule, a freshly felled tree contains up to 50% - 60% moisture, then it dries by itself by 12 - 16%, after which the moisture content of the wood stabilizes once and for all. That is why it is extremely important, before the wood is put into processing, to subject it to artificial drying to an optimal moisture level. Usually, wood for the production of sticks is dried in the range of up to 6 - 14% moisture. On average, the entire drying process takes two weeks. But the exact time of exposure and drying is not prescribed anywhere, and this is the secret of each manufacturer, who himself determines what degree of wood moisture he needs in order to process it on the machines and get the desired quality of the sticks.
At the exit from the production, the sticks need low humidity, as the wood “breathes”, and the amount of moisture in it will constantly change depending on the humidity of the air. environment. Thus, the sticks will shrink and swell with changes in climate and humidity, but to what extent depends on how the wood was dried before they were produced. Poorly dried wood before processing will subsequently peel off, warp, shrink, dry out, crack, warp and deform.
stick length. Longer sticks have more leverage and the advantage of better drum reach, but are more difficult to control. If you want more power for the same diameter, choosing a longer stick is a good choice.
Diameter. The larger diameter has more mass, which develops more sound projection and loudness.
Stick weight. Weight affects the sound, strength, and your ability to control sticks. In general, heavy sticks sound more "thick" and louder. If the sticks are lighter, then they make a "thin" and soft sound.
Heavy poles have more momentum, so their trajectories are more consistent and more forgiving, making them easier to handle for beginners. In addition, playing with heavier sticks develops the endurance of the drummer, regardless of his natural ability. So it's not a bad idea to have additional heavier sticks in your arsenal to expand your sonic capabilities. You will notice that when you switch to lighter poles, they are more difficult to control.
Evenness- an important indicator that contributes to a uniform feeling of balance of the sticks. In the initial stages of the production of sticks, the most important is the control of the drying process of the blanks. But since wood is a living “breathing” material that absorbs moisture, the shape and size of the sticks will always depend on external conditions. Therefore, two sticks will never be perfectly even.
Recoil absorption depends on the shape of the stick and the type of wood. The more the drumstick absorbs recoil, the less stress in the hand and joints, which means it's easier to play. The feeling of "balance" (center of gravity) and comfortable grip depends on the type of wood, its drying, the shape of the stick and the structure of the drummer's hand.
Marking
Traditional model numbering such as 3S, 2B, 5B, 5A, and 7A was the earliest accepted drumstick numbering, with a number and a letter representing the stick's size and purpose. The exact specifications of each model varied slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially in the points of constriction of the wand and its tip.
Number figuratively denotes the diameter (more precisely, the thickness) of the stick. Basically, a lower number means larger diameter, and the larger number is the smaller diameter. For example, stick 7A is smaller in diameter than 5A, which in turn is thinner than 2B. The only exception is 3S, which is larger in diameter than 2B, despite the number.
Letter designations"S", "B" and "A" used to indicate the scope of a particular model, but today they have almost completely lost their meaning.
« S" meant "Street". Initially, this model of sticks was intended for use on the street: for playing in marching bands or drum bands, where high power of impacts and loudness of performance are expected; accordingly, the sticks of this group have the largest size.
« B" - meant "Band". Originally intended for use in brass and symphony orchestras. Have larger size shoulders and head (for louder playing) than the "A" model. Usually used in heavy, noisy music. They are easier to control and are recommended for beginner drummers. The Model 2B is highly recommended by drum teachers as the ideal starting sticks.
« A" comes from the word "Orchestra". From the perspective of a legendary drummer and drum maker musical instruments William Ludwig, instead of the letter "O", the letter "A" was used, which, in his opinion, looked better than "O" when printed. The "A" models were originally intended for big bands; bands playing dance music.
Typically, these sticks are thinner than the "B" models, with thinner necks and small heads, which makes it possible to produce a quiet and soft sound. Typically, sticks of this model are used in light music, such as jazz, blues, pops, etc.
The "A" models are the most popular among drummers.
« N" means "Nylon" and is a relatively new designation. It is added at the end of the marking (for example, "5A N") and indicates that the stick has a nylon tip.
drum stick material
All indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of wood are determined at a moisture content of 12%.
American Walnut (Hickory) - perfect tree for drumsticks. Durable, hard, well absorbs recoil upon impact, effectively dampens vibrations transmitted from blows to hands. It has average weight, little prone to bending.
Density 815 kg/cu.m.,
Jank hardness - 1820
Beech European(European Beech) has a straight grain wood structure, flexible. The hardness and density of wood is different, depending on the place where the trees grow. Beech wood is similar to oak wood in terms of its basic mechanical properties. After drying, most wood characteristics improve, and beech becomes stronger than oak in bending, surpassing it in stiffness and shear resistance by about a quarter and even more in impact strength.
Beech quickly and strongly reacts to changes in humidity, which is why it can be called "capricious" or "sensitive".
Density from 660 to 700 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1300
Maple- the lightest and most flexible tree with a soft structure. Although maple is not as hard and durable as American walnut or oak, maple sticks are an ideal choice if you prefer a light feel and quick response. Maple sticks are considered "docile sticks" with excellent recoil absorption, are flexible and rebound, and are used primarily for quiet or fast playing to produce a light "airy" sound - especially when playing cymbals.
Maple density 620 - 675 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1450
Oak- a very strong tree, weighs more than maple and walnut, and has much greater strength. Oak sticks are the heaviest, densest, strongest and have a noticeable impact. Oak is rarely used to make sticks. Very moisture resistant tree.
Density from 675 to 970 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1360
Hornbeam has a medium density structure, good recoil absorption (average between walnut and maple), fairly high wear resistance. The weight of the wood ranges from very light to medium heavy. The flexibility of the hornbeam is somewhat worse than that of beech and oak. Sticks from it are resistant to shock loads. Like beech, it is afraid of moisture.
Density - 750 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1860
Pao Rosa (Rosewood) (Rosewood)- very strong, hard, but rather fragile wood. Sticks made from it are preferred for their wonderful tonal hue and feel, but they are not suitable for cymbal playing.
Density from 709 to 780 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 2720
In addition to wood, sticks are made of polyurethane, carbon fiber (Carbon) or aluminum. All of these sticks are highly durable.
don't wet your ear and that's it)
rather unpleasantly very ... Then another 2 weeks to go for procedures ..
Drums!
I want to learn how to play them ^^
and how the earth wears such ....
A&T Trade look. maybe they are waiting for you there.
Crew
Gangster Hunters
Danzel Washington is filming, good shot
The situation is classic - washing, handbrake, frost (-10) ... Bang, surprise. The right rear was torn off quite quickly, with the left problem .. I dragged 150-200 meters along the asphalt, it was useless. Probyval swing tightness, nothing helps, stands as if dead! I re-read a bunch of information, methods of unlocking on the spot (excluding a tow truck and a wonderful transfer to a warm place) in general 4;
- Boiling water per drum (from 200 gr to 5 l)
- Remove the wheel - tap with a hammer
- Without removing the wheel, tap on the mounting bolts
- Hairdryer, fan heater
Considering that I was standing on the road, the hair dryer fell off, I somehow didn’t feel like water and a sledgehammer .. and a separate respect - AndCam from Surgut! vacuum hose! Those one end in the exhaust pipe, the other on the drum! To be honest, I didn’t believe that it could help, BUT after 15 minutes of blowing exhaust gases on Idling, without any chponkanya, everything is perfectly unlocked!
The ABS sensor, which naturally caught fire, went out after 200 meters, dried it further by braking, all is well!
I recommend to all! Fast, convenient, stress-free and the handles are clean!
Good luck on the roads!
If there are such suspicions, go immediately to the hospital at night. Doctors will be able to tell you more precisely!
kneecap (patella), navel (umbiliculus), collarbone (clavicula), mandible (mandibula), fossa canina
Exclusive items always arouse the admiration of others and the pride of the owner. If you are playing on drum kit, self-made drum sticks become your unique highlight.
Instruction
- Go to any music store and look at the models of drumsticks they sell. Pay attention to the labeling. The numerical designation indicates the thickness sticks, and the letter - about its purpose. If you are a beginner drummer, ask the seller for a stick marked 2B and remember its diameter and weight. Models with this marking are intended for playing in brass and symphony orchestras. They are very comfortable and popular with beginner drummers who are developing their technique and staging.
- Buy on the construction market wooden block. In principle, American walnut, maple or oak will do, but it’s better to buy a maple bar anyway. This wood is light and sticks from it are ideal for fast and quiet playing. When you become a superstar or a professional drumstick maker, make sticks from exotic woods such as bubinga or rosewood.
- Remember the 2B model you were looking at in the music store and cut out sticks about the same length and thickness. To do this, make the bottom sticks thickened - it will be a counterweight with an end sticks with head. Opposite thin end sticks, which is struck on the drum, is called "shoulder". The length and shape of this section affects the sound. Cut the stick so that it smoothly thins towards the head. Then her sound will be more refined.
- head sticks make pointed (Pointed or triangle-tipped). This is the most popular option and guarantees a mid-focus sound.
- Process the cut sticks sandpaper to remove roughness and protect hands from possible splinters.
- If you want to hold on tighter and tighter sticks, buy special anti-slip tapes and wrap them around the base of the sticks.
- Always carry several pairs of drumsticks with you. Companies that make drumsticks also make handy storage containers. Put a few of these in your bag so your chopsticks are always within arm's reach of you.
- If you're wondering how jazz drummers get that sizzling sound on the snare, you might want to buy a pair of brushes. The brushes have retractable thin metal rods, which are mainly used to provide a quiet background beat, so the sound is completely different from hitting with sticks.
- When playing an acoustic concert, you can use rue, which is made from hewn birch or bamboo chips. Compared to brushes, they sound more muffled. Although rues come in different thicknesses, don't hit them too hard or they may break off pieces and become unplayable.
- Try different innovations from time to time. For example, manufacturer Zildjian produces rubber practice pads.
- Wear earplugs while playing drums. The source of the loud sound (i.e. the drums) is fairly close to your ears. Do you want to listen to music and have conversations when you are 80? Many drummers report hearing loss by the age of 50, and only then do they start using earplugs. Don't let this happen to you.
- There is a chance that you will have to try many sticks. If you don't know which ones you want, try a few options. Ultimately, you will settle on what is right for you.
- If you play metal, 5V sticks will work for you.
- You can also start with fairly thick sticks of 2A or larger format to train your wrist, and then move on to sticks easier. And eventually stop playing with heavy sticks altogether.
- If you want to achieve an epic, orchestral sound, wrap the ends of your sticks with duct tape. This will give the cymbals a less harsh sound and also help to achieve a crescendo effect. The more tape you wrap around the sticks, the stronger the effect.
- you can use different kinds sticks for different styles games.
- Be careful, while playing heavy music, you can rub blisters and calluses. Buy from your chosen manufacturer special tapes which will reduce vibration - this will reduce the number of possible injuries.
- If you are going to play in a band or are already playing, ask your band leader for advice on which sticks you should choose.
- If you know exactly what kind of sticks you want, buy a large package right away, they will really pay for themselves.
- Do not limit yourself to playing only with wooden sticks. If your sticks break often, try graphite sticks, but they will sound different.
