Growing seedlings is a troublesome and rather laborious process. It is very important to provide her with the right microclimate, the necessary conditions for growth and development. At the same time, everyone wants the plants to develop as quickly as possible, and the wind and cold do not threaten them. It is for growing seedlings that summer residents use a mini-greenhouse. He happens different types and will help provide care for seedlings both at home and on garden plot.
Every gardener needs a mini-greenhouse, and why is not difficult to guess.
The main functions and advantages of this facility:
- protects seedlings from negative influences, including drafts in the apartment (if the panic is at home), rain and wind on the street;
- does not block sunlight, but provides the correct microclimate for seedlings (the desired level of humidity, temperature);
- allows you to carefully harden seedlings;
- does not interfere with plant care procedures;
- It has a low cost, it is installed in almost a few minutes.
On a note! By the way, many build mini-greenhouses even on the balcony, and not just on the garden plot.
The principle of operation of a greenhouse is easy to understand - it provides plants with heat due to the fact that it covers them from all sides from wind and draft and is installed in a well-lit place. The warm air accumulated under the film is not carried away by air currents in an unknown direction, and therefore the temperature in the greenhouse is much higher than in open space. This is very important for plants that like warmth and cannot stand excessive coolness. And the structure that has small size- a mini-greenhouse fully meets all these criteria.
What is recommended to grow in mini-greenhouses? First of all, this, as already mentioned, is seedlings of various horticultural crops that need warmth and care. As a rule, containers with seeds for germination are placed in home greenhouses that are built on windowsills. Peppers, some types of flowers respond very well to the use of a mini-greenhouse. In the spring, plants can be moved to an outdoor mini-greenhouse for hardening. Thanks to the use of these structures for germination and seedling cultivation, crops will begin to bear fruit earlier than usual.
GrowBox - greenhouse for home
On a note! A home mini-greenhouse is, in fact, a structure that performs almost the same functions as a regular film stretched over boxes with future seedlings. However, work in it is much easier and more convenient.
By the way, another advantage of using garden mini-greenhouses is that their miniature size allows you to install them in a small garden area. However, when the seedlings grow up, they will have to be relocated to a greenhouse or open ground. But a mini-sized greenhouse will not be empty - you can plant other crops in it that do not require large spaces for growth and development.
Ordinary radish per season can produce 3 or more batches of crops, since in a mini-greenhouse you can start planting it very early, and finish growing much later.
In early spring or late autumn, onions, dill and other herbs will feel great in the greenhouse, which will decorate your table and add vitamins to culinary dishes. In a small greenhouse, you can even grow, which will bear fruit throughout the summer.
A mini-greenhouse will also help in rooting some types of plants. For example, it has all the conditions for giving roots in the country and taking root cuttings of raspberries, currants, roses.
On a note! In order to root shrub plants in the garden, it is best to make a separate mini-greenhouse, since this process is far from fast and lasts about a year, and a greenhouse may be needed for new seedlings.
Types of mini-greenhouses
Such greenhouses can be of various types, shapes and sizes - from very tiny, domestic, to quite spacious, outdoor. Consider the main types of these structures.
Table. Types of mini-greenhouses.
| Construction type | Description |
|---|---|
| It has a small size, can even fit on the windowsill. Seedlings begin to be grown in the first days of spring, or even in winter - it all depends on the growth rate of a particular type of crop. To reduce the development time of plants, and the seeds germinated and grew faster, such greenhouses are often used. Roughly speaking, these can be exact copies of street, familiar to us greenhouses with arcs and film, even multi-storey ones, or they can just be film shelters - it all depends on your wishes. You can make such a mini-greenhouse yourself or buy it ready-made in the store. |
| It consists of several small arcs installed in a row, covered with a film or agrofibre. In principle, it is no different from a regular-sized greenhouse, with the exception of very small dimensions. You can install in any lighted place. |
| It is a small box that does not have a bottom, but has a lid covered with glass, film. This type of greenhouse is easy to move and install on any bed. It is usually used to protect plants planted in open ground during unexpected frosts. Not bad for rooting cuttings of various fruit and berry and flowering crops. |
| This is a greenhouse installed in a trench dug on the site. Its "sides" are made using strapping, a fertile bed is arranged in it, and on top of this whole structure is closed with a lid made of polycarbonate and film. The soil itself serves as a heat-insulating material, in addition, it is possible to equip the greenhouse with additional heating using biofuels, which we will discuss later. Often such a greenhouse is made single-sided. |
| This is an outdoor type of mini-greenhouse, which differs in the way it opens. It has two wings, which, when open, resemble the wings of a butterfly. In fact, such a design can have absolutely any size, but is usually small. |
| This type of greenhouse can also be quite large. The name "bread box" was born because of the special way of opening the structure, which really looks like a full-fledged bread box. The structure provides convenient access to plants and makes their care pleasant and easy. |
Growbox prices
growbox
Description and characteristics of materials
Before we start studying the instructions for creating the simplest mini-greenhouses, we will deal with the basic materials from which they are built. Each of them has certain pros and cons.
What can the frame of an arched greenhouse be made of? The easiest option is plastic or metal arcs, someone even manages to make greenhouses from wooden arcs. If we compare these materials, we will immediately understand that metal will last much longer than wood, since it does not rot. However, it is prone to corrosion in high humidity conditions. To slow down both processes, the wood is treated with special protective agents, and the metal must be painted.
On a note! Unlike a greenhouse, when installing a mini-greenhouse made of metal, you do not need a welding machine. Metal rods can simply be bent and stuck into the ground.
Plastic arcs are good because they are not afraid of either rot or corrosion. But it is a more fragile material than wood and metal, and breaks easily with the slightest effort. But also the cheapest.
By the way, a greenhouse box is usually made of wood, especially if it is a portable greenhouse or a "butterfly". But still make the “snail” out of metal - it’s easier and more convenient.
To cover the structure, you can use:
- polycarbonate;
- agrofibre;
- polyethylene;
- glass.
Polyethylene film is the simplest version of a covering material. It is easy to fix on any frame, and it is inexpensive. However, it quickly breaks and - even if it is removed for the winter - becomes unusable in 2-3 seasons. But on the other hand, in apartment conditions, greenhouses are closed with a film.
Agrofibre - very good material, which transmits enough light and provides plants with a favorable microclimate. It's tight enough, but porous material, which allows moisture to pass through, but does not release heat. It can be washed, and agrofibre serves with careful storage for many years. It costs more than polyethylene.
- a material that has long been known to all gardeners for its positive properties. It is quite strong, light, easy to work with. They can cover both a small greenhouse and a huge greenhouse.
- good, but still not the best the best option for a greenhouse. The fragility and complexity of working with glass significantly limit the possibilities of its use. It is unlikely that gardeners will suffer with this material for the sake of a small greenhouse - except to cover the greenhouse.
Advice! We recommend using film, agrofibre or polycarbonate for mini-greenhouse equipment (depending on the type of product). So, for "bread boxes", "butterflies" buy polycarbonate, for outdoor greenhouses better fit agrofibre, and for home indoor - film.
Prices for cellular polycarbonate
cellular polycarbonate
Heating a mini-greenhouse with biofuel
Biofuel will help to insulate the greenhouse and provide it with additional heat. Its role is perfectly performed by manure, straw, old leaves. To equip such a heated greenhouse in the country is quite simple.
Step 1. In the place where the greenhouse will be equipped, make a small hole or trench in the shape of the future structure.
Step 2 Fill the hole about 2/3 full with biofuel mixture. To do this, mix leaves, straw, manure with soil.
Step 3 Spill the "bed" with water and cover with fertile soil, filling the trench to the brim.
Attention! The soil layer must be thick enough for planting horticultural crops into it.
Step 4 Put a greenhouse on top of the structure.
Due to the decomposition processes, the biofuel will heat up and give off heat more actively, and the greenhouse will accumulate it. This is how the natural heating system will operate in any greenhouse.
So that the greenhouse is not blown away by a strong gust of wind, and the whole structure is sufficiently rigid and stable, it is necessary to make a foundation. This will take quite a bit of time and will allow, if necessary, to easily transfer the greenhouse to a new location. More details.
We make mini-greenhouses of different types
Depending on the type of construction, greenhouses can be made different ways. Let's consider some of them. Let's start with the simplest option - a frameless greenhouse. This is just covering the ridge with seeds planted in them and covered with plastic wrap or agrofibre. Just cover the ground with material and press it down along the edges with bricks or stones, protecting it from blowing winds. And this simple structure will already be considered a greenhouse.
You can also make a tunnel or arched frame greenhouse yourself.
Step 1. Purchase or make yourself several arches of the same size (usually they choose arcs made of metal or plastic). You will also need polyethylene, wire and clamps.
Step 2 Set the poles about 40 cm apart by simply digging or pushing the ends into the ground 30 cm.
Step 3 Using a wire, a wooden slat, connect the arcs to each other at the top point. This will give the structure stability.
Step 4 Cover the resulting structure with a film and secure it on one side with plastic clamps or wire. On the other side of the film, fasten a wooden lath with clamps or wire - the latter will help to roll the material while opening the structure.
Step 5 The ends can be closed separately with pieces of film, or you can simply take a film of greater width and, while closing the greenhouse, lower its sides onto the ends.
Step 6 Fix on the film with stones or bricks.
This is one of the most simple options mini greenhouse. But there are others.
You can also make a small portable greenhouse. To do this, you will need lumber, screws, glass or polycarbonate, awnings and a handle.
Step 1. Put together a small frame without a bottom, resembling a beveled box.
Step 2 Put together a wooden frame from thin bars - this will be the basis of a transparent cover.
Step 3 Insert a sheet of glass or polycarbonate into the frame.
An alternative option is to use old window frames.
Step 4 Attach the frame to the awnings on one side of the box (higher side).
Step 5 From the bar, make a support for the frame. It is also possible to provide the frame with a hook for closing. The mini greenhouse is ready.
On a note! By spending a little more time and putting together a few polycarbonate frames, you can make such a greenhouse completely transparent.
This design is easy to move from place to place. The main thing is that she completely hides the beds with seedlings.
Polycarbonate greenhouses in the distribution network are widely represented - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do it themselves. Because a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse is many times stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.
How to choose a design
If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arched supports.
In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost along the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.
Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight racks emerge from the ground / from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this device, the roof is rounded, the walls are straight. Even along the walls you can work without problems, straightening up to your full height.
But the rounded roof of the greenhouse has several disadvantages. The first - it is more difficult in it than in a straight line to make vents for ventilation. You can solve the problem if you make transoms in the walls, and not in the roof. The second minus of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow comes off it worse than from flat inclined surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced farms, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.
There is a third solution - to make the rounded part of the roof from two arcs welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the skate can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve the snow removal and protect the joint from leaks.
Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse: frame material
The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and a wooden beam are suitable. Also use galvanized profiles for drywall.
Wood
The beam is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a single-pitched or double-pitched roof, since it is difficult and time-consuming to bend wood arcs. The cross section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and the snow / wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50 * 50 mm. Such supports are placed in middle lane. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from a bar of 100 * 100 mm.
Moreover, to save money, you can not buy a bar, but make a composite one - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better tolerate loads, less prone to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.
Another option is a larger one.
If a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse is being built on a wooden frame, all boards / beams must be treated / impregnated with antiseptics, and those that are intended for the street. Treat the ends that are buried in the ground with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, wood, firstly, will quickly collapse, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.
When connecting racks to the strapping (bottom bar), for greater rigidity and reliability, use steel reinforced mounting angles. They are in construction stores. To increase the bearing capacity of the roof, additional jumpers are installed.
Profiled pipes and steel angle
Most of the polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made of profiled pipes. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s easy to do everything yourself - cooking a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with the help it is easy to make arcs yourself.
The cross section again depends on the size and environmental conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20 * 40 mm. But options are also possible. For that material, another parameter such as wall thickness is also important. It is desirable that the metal was 2-3 mm. Such a frame endures significant loads.
A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, therefore, greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gable or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the thickness of the metal is from 2 mm.
Galvanized profiles
Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a profile frame is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snowy winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not needed. And the minus is not the biggest bearing capacity.
One of the frames
The technology is used standard - as for the construction of walls and partitions made of drywall. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make the racks double - splicing two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. For greater rigidity of the frame, make slopes, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is desirable to make the roof pitched, and not rounded, to strengthen the trusses.
Foundation
If you are wondering whether or not you need a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse, there is only one answer - you need it. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation should “anchor” the building well.
Belt type
This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most solid option. If you plan to use a greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below the freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or just from a bar is suitable.
Concrete-brick - one of the most common
Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)
Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of costs, complexity and duration. Work is carried out as follows:
- By the size of the greenhouse, they dig a trench. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
- A dense oilcloth or roofing material is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also desirable to cover the sides, but there formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, the concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
- The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400), 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of aggregate are taken. Aggregate - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fractions. Expanded clay should not be used - it absorbs moisture, can cause high humidity.
- The surface is leveled "under the level". You can smooth it out with a wooden block.
- Mortgages are installed in the foundation, at the corners and with a distance of 1 meter - studs or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Studs are placed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, reinforcement - if brick is to be laid. They stick out above the level of the foundation by at least 15 cm.
- The poured foundation is covered with a film, stands for at least a week (at temperatures below 17 ° C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, it is watered a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, under the film, it is better to cover it with a coarse cloth (burlap).
- If the bottom strapping is a beam, on top concrete base waterproofing is being rolled out. You can - roofing material in two layers, but now it is quickly collapsing, so it's better to take Hydroizol or something similar. Can coat concrete bituminous mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
- A row of strapping is laid:
- Next comes the assembly of the frame.
There are options for this type of foundation. It is possible to install small sizes in the prepared trench, fill the space between them with mortar. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top, leveled. Mortgages are fixed in the seams.
Empty bottles can be used as building material. They are laid in rows, poured with concrete. It turns out a very economical and warm foundation. Its bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious building.
Timber foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse
This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. A beam is used with a large section - 100 * 100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:
This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, we can hope that the foundation will live for at least a few years.
Pile-grillage
Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will serve for a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.
Next, you can fasten the strapping, or you can build on a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After that, we can say that the do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse is almost ready. It remains to fix the polycarbonate.
Which polycarbonate to choose
How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, bought or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work”, depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. His choice must be taken responsibly - the amount is considerable.
Types of polycarbonate
There are three types of this material:
What type of polycarbonate is better to use for the construction of greenhouses? Depends on the mode of operation of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you need a cell phone. If this option is exclusively for the warm season, corrugated (or monolithic) is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has more than its high thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).
Choosing cellular polycarbonate
It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the declared characteristics. It is only important that there is UV protection. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone, there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:
The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it is not pressed through, even if you make considerable efforts, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.
Mounting Features
According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat, works well, but all components cost decent money.
Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to fix it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how they do it:
This is what concerns directly the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it gets dirty anyway and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate - blacken exfoliate. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it occurs frequently. So when developing a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse layout, provide half-meter walls from another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.
We all know the pride of the owner of a cellar or pantry filled with cans of conservation. But in order for this to become possible, you must first successfully grow the entire list of vegetables and fruits: cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers - and other crops that require heat and sun to ripen. With heat in our climate is problematic. Therefore, we definitely need greenhouses or greenhouses on the site. You can create such a useful building with your own hands, and choose, for example, polycarbonate as a material.
The difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse
They are constantly confused. Both here and there - the basis of the frames and a coating that transmits ultraviolet and does not allow cold. Only the quality and sizes are different. But it is easy to distinguish between a greenhouse and a greenhouse, despite the similarity in design.
Characteristics of greenhouses
A small simple greenhouse - protection mainly for beds, often a very, very long structure, and always low. Made from metal and plastic pipes or wooden slats. Sometimes it consists of sections on a wooden base. But often equal lengths of plastic pipes or metal fittings are simply stuck into the ground, so the majority of small greenhouses are semicircular in cross section. Such a greenhouse is covered, as a rule, with a light polyethylene sleeve film, which simply leans back in warm weather or for plant care.
Long greenhouses made of metal arches can be installed in endless rows
Photo gallery: the simplest designs
This is how the film leans back from the greenhouse made of plastic pipes on fittings 
This is also a greenhouse, not a greenhouse, although made of wood with glass 
Greenhouse made of PVC pipes assembled on fittings, as a constructor 
A greenhouse with a film thrown over with a margin: you can simply tie it from the end 
Factory greenhouse-greenhouse-cabinet for indoor flowers to keep them out of the cold 
Long greenhouses from pipes and films for long beds 
Small greenhouses for small beds on a wooden frame made of plastic pipes and films 
Covering the greenhouse with plastic wrap is best done together 
Greenhouse from plastic bottles in the form of an arch over the garden 
Greenhouse made of plastic bottles in the form of a house
Larger greenhouses are a construction of a completely different level of complexity (by the way, simple greenhouses are also often called greenhouses). The materials for their frame are more expensive and stronger: wood, metal pipes, metal corners, plastic pipes of various composition and quality. You can enter such a greenhouse without bending. There is a door or two or more doors, and often windows and vents. Inside them, beds and shelves for pallets with seedlings and flower pots are often equipped, their insides are completely paved or paths are made.
In such designs, more durable coatings are used: reinforced polyethylene film, bubble film (which protects better from the cold, but transmits light worse), nonwovens(Spandbond, Lutrasil, Agril, Agrotex, Agrospan, which also provide good thermal insulation, but are not transparent), plastic sheets (cellular polycarbonate) and even glass. But still the last position, like aluminum double-glazed windows, is used for heavy capital greenhouses of the "greenhouse" type, operating all year round.
Photo gallery: varieties and forms of greenhouses and greenhouses
Greenhouse made of brown double-glazed windows - greenhouse and decoration of the yard 
A huge double-glazed greenhouse is more a winter garden than just a greenhouse 
Wall-mounted greenhouse made of metal corner and glass on the foundation 
Greenhouse from polypropylene pipes with reinforced polyethylene foil and zip door 
You can make a designer greenhouse from wooden triangles and film yourself 
A designer greenhouse made of metal triangles and foil will decorate any area 
A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes on fittings, covered with a film, has a base of pipes
Polycarbonate greenhouse
The most practical solution for sheltering a greenhouse is two-layer one- or two-chamber plastic sheets called "cellular polycarbonate" with parallel oriented stiffeners. This is the latest material good performance. Actually, polycarbonate sheets are not "cellular". But the honeycomb structure is much more suitable for greenhouses because:
- stiffening ribs in the "honeycombs" strongly strengthen the material;
- honeycombs inside are filled with air, and as you know, air is the best of heat insulators.
Cellular polycarbonate can be of different colors, but, of course, it is better to use transparent for greenhouses.
Transparent cellular polycarbonate - a suitable material for arranging a greenhouse
Material Advantages
- Strength - in comparison not only with all types of films, but also in comparison with glass; polycarbonate will withstand large hail and accidental hit by a ball or stone.
- High throughput sunlight (92%).
- Less UV transmission than glass due to the scattering of light in the honeycombs - there is no need to protect delicate varieties of plants during the hot part of the day.
- High thermal insulation properties due to the honeycomb structure - more than glass and any films.
- Resistant to temperature extremes from -35 0 C to +50 0 C, does not become brittle from this, like films.
- Possesses dust-repellent qualities.
- Lightweight, 15 times lighter than glass.
- It is flexible, therefore it is easy to fit on the frame of any shape.
- It is plastic when heated, so it easily fits on a frame of a very intricately curved shape.
- When in contact with an open flame, it does not burn, but melts - without the release of harmful gases.
- Easy to cut and drill.
- It is usually supplied in the form of sheets of convenient sizes 6x2.1 m, and at the same time 3-4 sheets are used for the greenhouse.
- Very beautiful.
- The main advantage is cheapness with such impressive characteristics.
Flaws
It is necessary to carefully follow the rules for installing polycarbonate - you need to close the ends of the sheets, otherwise moisture will get into the honeycombs and microorganisms will dissolve, which will worsen the transparency of the sheets and the appearance of the greenhouse.
DIY device
A polycarbonate-coated greenhouse always has the same components:
- The foundation of any structure or a base frame made of timber.
- Frame - from a metal corner, pipe, profile; from a wooden bar; from plastic pipes of any chemical composition and production method.
- Honeycomb polycarbonate cover.
Photo gallery: different greenhouses with polycarbonate coating
Portable greenhouse for covering flower beds 
Wooden greenhouse with polycarbonate in the form of a house 
Greenhouse from a corner with polycarbonate on a wooden frame 
An unusual configuration of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes with polycarbonate - shelves are pre-made here 
Greenhouse made of plastic pipes with polycarbonate on a wooden base 
Lightweight polycarbonate greenhouse is quite spacious 
A greenhouse made of corner and plastic is equipped with flower boxes 
Greenhouse on a monolithic foundation 
Greenhouse on a concrete foundation with flower boxes 
Greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a stone foundation 
Greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a concrete foundation with decorations 
Foundation trimmed with stone near a polycarbonate greenhouse 
Polycarbonate greenhouse on a strip foundation with a tree
Preparing for construction
For an accurate understanding of what we want to get, we need drawings, diagrams, dimensions.
Idea and drawing
But first you need to decide on the desired shape and material for the frame of our future greenhouse. Although the “house” shape is considered the most resistant to snow loads, it is rather difficult to perform, and traditionally the arched shape is the best and simplest.
The choice of the shape of the greenhouse is dictated by your skills and capabilities.
It would be possible to do without a foundation at all or to make a piled concrete foundation. But he will not solve the main thing - the tightness of the greenhouse from below. Insects, caterpillars and slugs, and even mice can penetrate there.
A greenhouse made of pipes on concreted rods is a rather complicated and impractical solution.
Therefore, we chose for our greenhouse a wooden frame made of timber or board, carefully impregnated with an antiseptic, laid directly on the ground, on a sand cushion and roofing felt waterproofing.
Frame for our greenhouse made of timber, laid on a sand cushion and waterproofing
We will mount a frame made of polypropylene pipes on a wooden strapping, on which we will attach cellular polycarbonate. Polypropylene (PP) is a thermoplastic polymer designed for harsh environments. Depending on the type, they withstand low (up to -10 0 С) and high (up to +110 0 С) temperatures, are resistant to aggressive substances, are easily interconnected, and are extremely durable.
Polypropylene pipes are an excellent, simple and reliable solution for such a greenhouse
Having searched the Internet, we find a lot of drawings, and from them we choose the most suitable, medium in complexity and adapt it to the size we need.
An example of a drawing of a greenhouse on pins does not quite correspond to our goals, but it shows the principle of its design
But this drawing does not show the principle of attaching pipes to each other and to the base using fittings. We are looking for the right scheme.
The system of fastening pipes to each other and to the base on self-tapping screws using fittings
It is not very clear how to make doors. We are looking for schemes for connecting pipes in planar parts and hanging them on an arched structure.
Principles of connecting pipes in flat parts - doors and vents
Concretization and choice of material
- The length of the selected greenhouse is almost 7 meters. Given the considerable size of the greenhouse and the considerable weight of the plastic coating, we choose strong pipes: glass fiber reinforced PP pipe with a diameter of 25 millimeters and a wall thickness of 4 millimeters.
Polypropylene pipe reinforced with glass fiber VALTEC PP-FIBER PN 25
- Mounting fittings must be of the appropriate diameter. We will need quite a few of them. For a cross-shaped connection of pipes, cross fittings will be needed.
Cross fitting for polypropylene pipes
- For a triple connection of pipes at the ends of the greenhouse, tees will be needed.
Tee fitting for polypropylene pipes
- To close the ends and strengthen the pipes on a wooden frame - plugs. Since the glasses shown in the diagram are not easy to find, we just use ordinary plugs for this purpose, fixing the pipes in them with self-tapping screws.
Plug fitting for polypropylene pipes
- Choosing a beam for the frame. The frame must be strong enough, so the cross section of the timber should not be less than 150x150 millimeters.
Pine timber of natural humidity 150x150x6000 mm
- We will also need strong massive metal corners to reinforce the frame joints.
The fixing corner will help to thoroughly fasten the base boards
- Polycarbonate is sold in standard sheets. But its thickness can be chosen in application to our conditions. Since we have a fairly light greenhouse, you can purchase polycarbonate with a thickness of 6 millimeters. There will be 4 sheets in total.
Types of polycarbonate: classification by thickness and location of stiffeners
It is very important to choose high-quality polycarbonate if we want to have a durable construction.
Comparison of polycarbonate of different quality after several years of operation
- We will need a profile for connecting polycarbonate sheets in order to ensure the ultimate tightness of the greenhouse. It consists of two parts - the base and the upper part that snaps onto it - the cover; quickly and reliably fasten polycarbonate sheets to the frame, simultaneously connecting them to each other.
The connecting profile "Polyskrep" is used for the installation of massive structures made of cellular polycarbonate
- To close the end edges of polycarbonate sheets, we will purchase an end profile.
End profile for polycarbonate (6mm * 2100mm b / color)
Video: how to choose high-quality polycarbonate
Video: how to properly connect cellular polycarbonate
Calculation of all materials
Now we can tabulate all the components that we have chosen and calculate how many of them we need and how much our greenhouse will cost us, taking into account the average current price of materials.
Do not forget to include in the list of components a reserve - an extra 10-15% - for marriage and possible assembly problems!
Table: list of materials and approximate total cost of the greenhouse
| Position | Name | Specification | Quantity | Unit price | Price, rub) | Notes |
| 1 | Plastic pipe VALTEC PN25 | Ø 25x4 mm | 70 meters | 50 rub/m | 3500 | It is necessary to find a supplier who sells pipes by the meter, and not cut into segments of several meters. Otherwise, the consumption of pipes will increase greatly |
| 2 | Cross fitting SPK 18110 single-plane | Ø 25 mm | 56 pieces | 20 rub | 1120 | |
| 3 | Tee fitting Enkor PPRC single-plane | Ø 25 mm | 14 pieces | 10 rub | 140 | |
| 4 | PVC plug | Ø 25 mm | 10 pieces | 10 rubles | 100 | |
| 5 | Set of clamps for fixing the film to the greenhouse frame GRINDA 422317–25 (12 pieces) | Ø 25 mm | 5 sets | 70 rub/set | 300 | |
| 6 | Pine timber of natural moisture | 150x150x6000 mm | 3 pieces | 1500 rub/piece | 4500 | |
| 7 | Cellular polycarbonate, thickness - 4 mm | 2.1x6 m | 4 sheets | 1 800 rub/sheet | 1 200 | |
| 8 | Detachable connection profile HCP 6–16 (cover) | 6 m | 3 pieces | 540 | 1620 | |
| 9 | Detachable connecting profile HCP 6–16 (base) | 6 m | 3 pieces | 540 | 1620 | |
| 10 | 2.1 m | 20 pieces | 50 | 1000 | ||
| 11 | Reinforced fixing angle | 90x90x65x2.0 | 8 pieces | 20 rub/piece | 160 rubles | |
| 12 | Self-tapping screws with thermal washers | About 4 kg | On demand | |||
| 13 | Antiseptic and hydrophobic impregnation | Minor amount | ||||
| 14 | sealant | On demand | ||||
| 15 | Hinges for doors and windows | On demand | ||||
| Total | 21260 rubles (excluding the cost of self-tapping screws, thermal washers, sealant, hinges and impregnation) | |||||
Required Tools
- Hammers of various sizes.
- Nail puller, mount.
- Roulette, carpenter's meter.
- Spade bayonet.
- Owl shovel.
- Rake.
- Hydraulic level or laser level.
- Power saw (or - a circular saw, or a simple hacksaw).
- Drill.
- Screwdriver.
Step by step process of making a greenhouse
- We choose a place for the beds that need to be protected by a greenhouse. The place should be comfortable, sunny, close to water or running water.
Rules for placing a greenhouse depending on the location of the site
It is very important to place the greenhouse so that it does not fall under strong gusts of wind or end up in a wind tunnel between two buildings (otherwise, with a large windage, the greenhouse can simply be blown away). In addition, it should not be under the slope of the roof of the house, so that it does not fill up with additional snow; on a slope so that it is not flooded; in the shade so that the snow does not stay on its roof for a long time; near big trees so that the polycarbonate does not pierce with branches and fall asleep with leaves in the fall.
Where it is impossible to put a greenhouse so that it is not exposed to adverse weather conditions
We must also remember the aesthetics of your site - the greenhouse must fit into the overall landscape.
The greenhouse in the landscape of the site looks great
- Using a shovel and a rake, we level the designated area using a hydraulic level or a laser level. It is important to do this very carefully, as distortions in the design can deform or break the polycarbonate sheets.
- Add sand and once again check the evenness of the site. We lay strips of roofing material for waterproofing.
- If we do not plan to install pots and trays with earth inside the greenhouse, then we can add fertile soil and peat, or we can do it later.
50+ photos of open-top greenhouses
Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make yourself. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine authorship.
Mounting methods
How to fix an opening greenhouse cover
How to fix arcs or PVC pipes of a greenhouse under a film
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clamps
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Insert into the ground The method lies in the fact that we put PVC pipes on fittings driven into the ground. Instead of reinforcement, wooden rods can come off (enough for the season) Click on photo to enlarge
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How to fix the film on the greenhouse
The easiest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes
Very simple design greenhouse. Easy to assemble and just as easy to take apart. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.
It is cheap and easy to make .
Step by step photos. Click on them
How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.
Such a greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.
This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo. 
For the manufacture of arcs, not PVC pipes were used, but cedar branches, but I think that willow branches will also come down in our conditions. The branches are tied together with a nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give an arched shape. When the arcs of branches are stuck into the ground, a bar is attached on top of them to give one damage, which is also attached to each arc.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises to put two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tie each arc to these bars. As a result, we get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step-by-step photos, to enlarge, just click on them.
Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse
And here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. He shifted the arcs and nothing interferes, below you can see the attachment mechanism, click on it to enlarge.
DIY convertible greenhouse
See step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a pallet for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we fasten this frame to the pallet on the hinges and cover with a film.
Step by step photos of manufacturing.
Click on gallery to enlarge
Straw or hay greenhouse.
As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the walls of straw. The film rolls onto the bar. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil in your area is directed to the north, in such cases the sun slightly heats the earth. Such a greenhouse will help you out in this situation.
(Dew Collector Greenhouse System by Roots Up)
The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!
Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for dry countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When the night falls open special valves for the intake of cold air, due to which the water vapor is cooled and condensed, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after watering can be used for drinking.
Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel
Easy to make (45 minutes)
This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.
- 2 photos - we cut out square holes with a jigsaw in 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
- 3 photos - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
- 4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
- 5-6 photos - attach the handles on the sides for transfer.
- 7-12 photos we fix the film.
- 14 photos - drainage.
The greenhouse can be painted green to blend in with the dacha landscape.
Portable film greenhouse
As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as on a stretcher with the help of two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when it becomes necessary to close some weak plants at the time of a cold snap.
How to make automatic opening of the windows in the greenhouse?
A very interesting and simple design of the automatic opening of the window, depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3 l) and small (0.5 l) cans there is a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large bank is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one - to the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that when minimum quantity in it the water window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. water due to atmospheric pressure moves into a small jar, opening the window
A simple greenhouse option side opening .
As you can see, a very simple film greenhouse design. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and put in a new place.
Dome greenhouse from pipe scraps
it's ugly but it works
The bloggers at booth555.com moved into a new home and had to do their own plumbing. As a result, they had a lot of pipe cuttings left, and they were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail.
See step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.
As I understood from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars with adhesive tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, somehow the cuts of the film were fastened together, most likely the cord was threaded into the holes, and there is also a hint for 6 photos.
The film at the bottom is pressed against the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.
I could not translate the purpose of the star (in 4 photos), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.
Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.
Lying greenhouse from a double-glazed window or a frame
The author of the blog doorgarden.com made on his site such a recumbent greenhouse made of a glass door (double-glazed window), into which a stone from under a lawn mower accidentally fell.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly which state it is.
Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. Everything is very simple. As you can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges, it just lies, resting against the side board from slipping.
A double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.
In summer, in hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, you can throw it over strawberries to protect the berries from birds.
Photo source: doorgarden.com
Attention!!! Important point about greenhouses from window frames
Whatever frames are at your disposal, the transparent roof must be made folding (lifting up), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will hit with cold, and the horizontal can be adjusted with props according to the weather and local conditions.
What should be the slope of the greenhouse cover?
Note: the optimal slope of the roof slope of a shed greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) is φ, where φ is the geographical latitude of the place; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular height of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below for a greenhouse with a heat storage.
Source of the last two paragraphs and photo: vopros-remont.ru
Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)
DIY
Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables in early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.
The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and a glass cover. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.
The author claims that even in winter in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open up. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and it must also be a mechanism for fixing the open lid at different angles was made (see photo 4).
Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse
BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its device, but in the plants grown in it . These should be cold-tolerant plants. According to the author's research, there are five crops: spinach, green onion, mache, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern US. As well as arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnips.
My advice: make a cardboard sheet, glued on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.
Greenhouse made of window frame and hay
Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle
or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"
It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. The way out of this situation can be such a greenhouse in a plastic bottle.
When sunlight enters such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up. and stays warm for a very long time, even after sunset .
An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottle and, which will be created by heating the pre-wetted soil. Such humidity significantly accelerates the process of maturation of seedlings.
The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, rinse, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal tightly with tape.
How to make a quick do-it-yourself greenhouse
Wooden lattice greenhouse
The advantages of such a greenhouse:
- - build quickly
- - stable
- - easy to manufacture
Minuses:
Not suitable for tall plants, can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.
Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuels
About Russian pits
The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to, deepened into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, a dry, well-lit and sheltered place is chosen. It is desirable that it be a low slope with a south direction. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens that are arranged on the north side can serve. Particularly useful are the swivel flat screens painted in white, which allow maximum use of solar energy. Backlighting with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3 °, which is equivalent to transferring your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.
Note: you can use any flat boards pasted over aluminum foil for baking.
Construction begins with a strapping device around the perimeter of a greenhouse of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The north side of the strapping should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the harness to stop the frames.
At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received a green onion, lettuce, dill, parsley, radish, strawberries to the table in winter.
The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter, it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls can not be fixed, and in loose and floating soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rains, a drainage groove is arranged around it, which can be closed wooden shields facilitating approaches.
Frames for a greenhouse are most convenient in size 160x105 cm. They are made from 6x6 cm bars, connected for strength with wooden studs, and then properly stained with weatherproof varnish PF-166 (“6 = s”). Glasses are reinforced with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are sawn in the lower bindings.
Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow dung. Horse is considered the best, it gives more heat. Harvest it in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before stuffing the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser stack and warmed up. To do this, make several holes in it and pour it into each bucket hot water, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60 °, a greenhouse is stuffed with it. A colder one is laid at the bottom, and a hot one is placed on top and from the sides. After precipitation, after two or three days, a new portion is added. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it is necessary to slightly compact it so that voids do not form.
Greenhouses - pits were usually made 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warmed up after refueling, the rest produced products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of the Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits with a clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will turn sour.
To enlarge a photo click on it
After stuffing, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. From above, on the heated manure, soil is poured - garden or soddy soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame needs 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure is compacted, air flow to it is difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, do not over-moisten the soil.
A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.
Greenhouse layout
where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site
Nowadays, greenhouses made of polycarbonate are very popular among farmers and ordinary hobbyists. country life. In this article, we will take a step-by-step look at the process of building a polycarbonate greenhouse, and also consider all the pros and cons of greenhouses made using this technology.
Advantages of a polycarbonate greenhouse compared to analogues
Before we begin to consider construction technology, let's note that a polycarbonate greenhouse has the following advantages in contrast to "classic" materials for the construction of greenhouses, for example:
- Material strength. It has been proven that polycarbonate, compared to polyethylene or glass, has higher strength qualities and is able to withstand physical impacts better than analogues. For example, polycarbonate is not subject to excessive load on the roof in winter. Usually greenhouses made of glass are not immune from this and in winter from excessive snow load glass can crack and become unusable.
- Polycarbonate, unlike glass, is less susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, which allows plants that are grown in a polycarbonate greenhouse to be less exposed to ultraviolet rays.
- It has high (in comparison with analogues) thermal insulation qualities due to the fact that polycarbonate is a two-layer material.
- Resistant to temperature regime. A polycarbonate greenhouse can withstand both Siberian frosts (up to -50 degrees C) and Crimean hot days (up to + 60̊C).
- The material is easy to drill, flexible (when heated), which makes it quite comfortable when working. In addition, the material is quite light and is divided into convenient sheets. Polycarbonate sheets usually have dimensions of 600 * 210 cm, which, with the right approach, makes it possible to cover the greenhouse with 3-4 sheets.
- An important advantage is that, unlike glass greenhouses, polycarbonate greenhouses are able to scatter sunlight, which reduces the chance of plants burning in high temperature conditions.
- And the last advantage of polycarbonate is its cost. The average cost of a polycarbonate greenhouse is much cheaper than a glass greenhouse.
In this material, we often mention a glass greenhouse. We advise you to read the article on how to do. step by step technology accompanied by pictures will help you understand the technology 100%.
Disadvantages of polycarbonate greenhouses
We have already noted the advantages of polycarbonate greenhouses, but this material there are also disadvantages:
- Durability of polycarbonate. In conditions of excess sunlight, polycarbonate is subject to the so-called "burnout", which can lead to its sudden wear, which in turn will lead to the fragility of the entire structure.
- The quality of polycarbonate sheets. There is a risk of buying low-quality polycarbonate sheets. Usually a sheet weighs about 10 kg. before buying, be sure to ask to weigh the sheet if its weight is less than 10 kg, then refrain from buying. most likely you have low-quality material in front of you, which can cause big problems in future.
- Difficulties with additional heating of the greenhouse. Polycarbonate, like any plastic, is a fairly fusible material, which makes it difficult to install in a greenhouse furnace heating. But craftsmen are able to solve this problem, if you are interested in reading about then look at the material on our website.
We decide on the choice of foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse
There are many types of foundations that can be used for greenhouses. It all depends on your preferences. If you are going to thoroughly install a greenhouse in a certain place on your site for many years, then it is recommended to use a strip, brick or foundation on screw piles(new on the market).
But if the greenhouse on your site is still a seasonal or temporary phenomenon, then it is recommended to use a light foundation made of timber, which is built in a few hours of work.
In addition to seasonality important condition to select the type of foundation for the greenhouse is the occurrence of groundwater on the site. If the groundwater level is at a low level, then a strip or brick foundation, which is distinguished by its reliability, is quite suitable as a foundation. Otherwise (if the groundwater level is high), then it will not work, because. there are risks of deformation of the strip foundation, and with it the entire structure of the greenhouse.
For high groundwater levels, use universal type foundation - these are screw piles or a foundation made of timber.
Which version of the foundation to choose is up to you in any case. Below we will provide a description of all types of foundations for a greenhouse, but the foundation project is only the first task that you will have to face during the construction phase of the greenhouse, so carefully approach this issue.
The foundation for a brick greenhouse
In addition to a light and short-lived foundation made of timber, the question arises before the home master, can he make a reliable and solid foundation? If you really thought about it, then we present to your attention perfect solution- This is a brick foundation with a tape cement base.
Such a foundation can last for more than a dozen years, but here, as always, the correctness of its construction affects the term. Consider the process of building a brick foundation in detail.
- First of all, we make a trench with a depth of 40 to 60 cm. It will be quite enough. Then a concrete base is poured onto a sand cushion.
- Laying a row brickwork. The number of rows of brickwork depends only on your imagination, the higher the greenhouse you want, the more rows you can install.
- Next, lay a layer of roofing material for waterproofing.
- Fasten with anchor bolts bottom harness. The strapping can be made even from a bar.
Below in the photo, we will consider step-by-step instructions for building a brick foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse.
The foundation for a greenhouse made of timber
A foundation made of timber is a simple solution for those who do not want to bother with the construction of a foundation for a long time. To build this structure you will need:
- Bar with a diameter of 50 * 50 mm.
- Iron pegs for attaching the beam to the ground (provided that you do not make it on screw piles or on a brick base) and drying oil.
- Drying oil is required in order to prevent wood from premature decay due to direct exposure to soil and weather conditions (dampness, rain, condensation).
Before we come to the technology of building a foundation from a bar, we note that a foundation from a bar can be fixed not only to the ground (because of which it will quickly rot), but also to brick supports or screw piles, and then do it - this is the most the best option.
Fastening the frame to the foundation of timber (timber strapping)
A polycarbonate greenhouse in most cases requires a reinforced frame. It is the frame that is the basis of the structure during the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse. The frame can be made from various materials, but the main materials are:
- Wooden beam;
- aluminum guides;
- Metal pipes;
- Metal corner, etc.
Craftsmen mainly use wooden beams in the construction of frame elements, but the tree, as noted above, is quite susceptible to decay and the second drawback is the difficulty of disassembling the structure for the winter period. When using a wooden frame, this becomes a problematic task. Consider various options for a frame for a greenhouse on a timber foundation.
Fastening a wooden frame to a timber foundation
The timber frame can be fixed in several ways. It all depends on your abilities and skills to use a saw and an ax. Well, if you know the basics of carpentry, then this work will not add to your difficulties. So, there are the following ways to connect ordinary racks of a frame from a bar:
- Full cutting method.
- Partial cutting method (in half a beam).
- Fastening with a metal corner.
Ways of fastening racks from a bar to a foundation made of wood Which of these methods to give preference to when erecting a frame is a matter of skill and skill. It is definitely easier to fasten the beam with a metal corner (it must be at least 2 mm wide). It will be more reliable to fix the timber using the full cutting method, but on the condition that you are able to correctly perform this type of work.
When the racks are fixed to the lower mounts, it does not matter in what way (complete cutting, half a beam or using metal corners). In order to prevent the racks from loosening up to the moment of the upper strapping (mounting the upper retaining beam), it is necessary to make special slopes for each rack. Mowing will help fix the still unformed greenhouse frame structure.
Wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a foundation made of timber
So, in the previous chapter, we looked at the process of creating a wooden foundation, and then attaching a wooden frame to a beam. It's time to take a step-by-step look at creating a wooden polycarbonate greenhouse.
Sequence of work:
- Install wooden foundation from a beam. We make the foundation on brick pillars, on screw piles or on the ground. If we choose the last option (foundation on the ground), then we dig a trench, lay a layer of sand, then lay a brick bedding at least 2 bricks high or a sand-cement block, then a double layer of roofing material and finally wooden beam strapping.
- When the foundation is finished. We begin to mount the frame racks. The racks of the frame are fixed using the “vlapu” or “half-tree” technology; for reliability, they can be fixed with a metal corner. In addition to the corner of the rack, they are fixed with slopes.
- Racks are ready. We make the upper strapping from a bar using the technology of the lower strapping.
- It's time to build the roof. The roof can be made, or oval. step by step instructions for the construction of a wooden polycarbonate greenhouse, you can see the photo below.
Fastening a metal frame to a beam
The iron frame is attached to the strapping from the timber with the help of anchor bolts, but it is better to think over the methods of fastening in advance. The photo below shows the process of fastening the frame metal guides just with the help of anchor bolts to the strapping from the timber.
Fastening the aluminum frame to the foundation of a wooden beam
As noted above, the frame can be made not only from metal and wood, but also from aluminum rails. An aluminum frame is a fairly practical material that can be easily cut with a jigsaw for metal and screwed into it with self-tapping screws both for fixing it to a timber strapping and for fixing polycarbonate to aluminum guides.
The main thing in this case is to drill all the holes in advance. This will prevent the structures from being deformed as a result of drilling holes in an uncomfortable position.
We make a greenhouse frame from plastic (polypropylene) pipes
I would like to note that the above methods for building a polycarbonate greenhouse have many advantages, but one drawback is their complexity in the subject of dismantling. Dismantling is usually needed when we do not plan to leave the greenhouse for the winter or spring, but want to use the polycarbonate greenhouse only in the summer. Plastic pipes come to the rescue.
Polypropylene pipes are a great helper for building a greenhouse of almost any shape. Pipes can be easily cut with ordinary jigsaw, which allows you to install the greenhouse with virtually no project. In addition, unlike a wooden frame, condensate does not form in polypropylene pipes, which does not lead to mold and, as a rule, to premature wear of the structure due to weather conditions.
The only question that will need to be decided in advance is whether the frame of the greenhouse will be collapsible or stationary. The collapsible frame is twisted with screws, and the stationary frame is welded forever.
The photo above is an example. the simplest greenhouse from plastic pipes, but as you understand, with a slight increase in wind or under the influence of other weather conditions, this structure can be deformed, and the reason for this is the too light weight of the structure and the lack of a base for the frame.
The basis for the frame of polymer pipes
As a basis for the frame, which will give rigidity to our structure, the following materials will be needed:
- Wooden beam 6 or 8 mm thick. for the construction of stiffeners. The long timber should correspond to the required dimensions of your greenhouse.
- Beam to create the base of the foundation (if you have not already done it).
Sequence of work:
- We make a foundation from a beam and fasten it to the soil with metal stakes.
- We assemble the frame of the greenhouse from plastic pipes. Fastening is carried out with the help of special crosses designed for plastic pipes.
- Fastening polycarbonate to plastic pipes carried out using self-tapping screws. If it is not possible to easily screw in the screws, then it is best to drill holes in the pipes, and then screw in the screws.
The photo below shows a step-by-step algorithm for building a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes. Fittings and crosspieces are used for fastening.
Continuation of the installation of the frame The figure above shows a sample frame fastening for polyethylene film, because there were practically no stiffeners, and a polypropylene pipe acts as an alternative to the floor beam. But we hope the idea is clear that if polycarbonate is used as a coating, then the frame will need to be strengthened, making it more rigid.
For more detailed information about the construction of a polypropylene greenhouse, we suggest watching a video on this topic.
Video - do-it-yourself PVC pipe greenhouse (4 meters long)
Covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate
We have already reviewed the material on how to make a foundation for a greenhouse and what types of foundations exist. Next, we covered all the issues that relate to the construction of a frame for a greenhouse and the formation of stiffeners. In turn, in this chapter, let's look at the issues of covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate.
For greenhouses, 6 and 8 mm polycarbonate is usually used. Material 4 mm wide is suitable for greenhouses, and if your task is to build a winter insulated greenhouse, then you can safely buy polycarbonate 10 mm wide.
Find out by reviewing the possible options under consideration in a special publication on our portal.
Polycarbonate is a fairly flexible material, which allows its cutting and installation without much effort. This material attracts to its use with its strength and resistance to atmospheric adversity.
When attaching polycarbonate, it is advisable not to make a horizontal surface on the roof, because. condensate formed on the roof should roll down the vertical surface of the sheets to the ground.
For fastening polycarbonate to a frame made of polypropylene pipes, craftsmen most often use a fastening scheme using plastic earrings or aluminum brackets. But it is worth noting that manufacturers do not recommend using this method of attaching polycarbonate.
Fastening polycarbonate with profiles
Manufacturers recommend fixing polycarbonate exclusively with profiles, because. it is this method of fastening that allows you to hermetically cover the greenhouse with polycarbonate, in addition, it will ensure a quick fastening process and reliability of the structure. Fastening with a profile involves financial costs on the connecting profile, but the quality of the connections will be much higher.
For attaching screws to metal frame it is imperative to drill holes in advance, and then fix the polycarbonate to the self-tapping screws. Please note that the choice of screws and sealing washers should be approached with special care. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with thermal washers with a wide bearing area, because this is what will keep the carbonate intact and prevent condensation.
Find out how to do it, with a description from planning to heating and lighting, in the corresponding publication of our portal.
Video - technology for connecting polycarbonate sheets to each other
Video - do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse construction
Video - assembling a polycarbonate greenhouse
In order for your greenhouse made of polycarbonate to serve you faithfully, and the plants that you grow always have high yield you need to follow simple rules for caring for a greenhouse:
- Every spring, wipe the walls of the greenhouse with a damp cloth and soapy water, but do not add alkali to the solution.
- In the connectors and joints of polycarbonate sheets, mold, insects and other living creatures often form. At the construction stage, try to seal all joints with a sealant. This also applies to the places where the lighting cable, wiring, chimney from the stove, etc. pass.
- IN winter time sweep away the unnecessary snow masses from the frame of the greenhouse. This will allow you to do prevention from polycarbonate deformation.
As a conclusion
In this material, we got acquainted with such material polycarbonate, and also considered several options for building a greenhouse from this material. We have brought to your attention:
- Wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate, which is distinguished by its environmental friendliness, but the service life is 10-15 years.
- The greenhouse is made of metal and aluminum frames, the construction of which requires effort, but has great reliability.
- Greenhouse made of polypropylene (PVC) pipes. This option the manufacture of a greenhouse will require a minimum (compared to analogues) amount of time, but reliability leaves much to be desired.
- And finally, a greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes with a reinforced timber frame. This version of the greenhouse is perfect for year-round use at their summer cottage.
On which version of the greenhouse you choose to stop. We are waiting for your comments on the material.
