How to make a beer mug out of wood. Large beer mug

Project: August 2004

This is one of the very first attempts to openly show the manufacturing technology of one of their products online. This has never happened before in practice. Memories of the events of that time today cause a smile. Firstly, a carpenter with a camera - then it’s hard to imagine, but with a computer and Internet access - it’s generally nonsense. Secondly, not everyone is able to share their “secrets” and best practices, both then and today.

Since then, I have acquired many modern equipment developed many new technologies. AND oak mug today it would look a little different, and the manufacturing technology would most likely change. But in memory of the product of that time, I decided to save this master class and transfer it to the pages of the new site virtually unchanged, although on the Internet parts of the original text are found in the description of many sites ...

Well, the story itself began with one order. Then still a young company "Arena" for its Arena Beer House decided to order tasting trays in which customers would be served four different varieties beer. The variety you liked should have been served in wooden beer mug. Then I designed the mug together with wooden tray. Wooden mugs were made in small quantities, and the tray remained in the sketches (although the manufacturing technology was also worked out).

Below, as promised - the original description from the old site:

“It all started with a conversation about wine oak barrels and so on. This gave me the idea to do oak mug for beer. Previously, I did not have to deal with the manufacture of mugs, so I decided to do it using my own technology. After reviewing a dozen sites about beer, I made a discovery for myself - for 50 ml of vodka, a glass with a capacity of 50 ml is enough, but beer still has its own foam. That's why beer mug must have a place for foam. The beer fills about 3/4 of the glass. Accordingly, for 0.5 liters of beer, the mug should have a volume of about 0.8 liters.

So, to business!

I don’t know what Papa Carlo made his mug from, I decided to use a time-tested material - oak. For the manufacture of mugs it is necessary to prepare eight oak blanks measuring 150x60x15mm and one 135x70x25mm for the handle. It is necessary to trim the bars at an angle of 6 °, since the mug will have a conical shape. Yes, I almost forgot that the bottom is necessary so that the beer does not pour out. The bottom of the mug is also double-layer oak. Two blanks 130×130×3mm. The direction of the texture of the first, is located across the texture of the second workpiece. For the mug, you also need a copper strip of about 900 × 13 × 0.7 mm.

If you have prepared everything and still have the desire to make an oak mug, then go ahead!

The body blank must be shaped into a trapezoid with a base of 59mm and a top of 48mm. The ends are beveled inward at an angle of 22.5 degrees. The peculiarity is that the ends are processed for a tenon-groove connection! After processing, the workpiece will look like this.

Having previously cut the bottom in the shape of an octahedron (the size depends on the depth of the groove), you can start assembling the mug.In the assembled state, give the upper edge of the mug a thinner shape and round off. It is also necessary to round off the corners at the bottom of the mug.

Now you need to make a handle for the mug. You can choose any form. For convenience, the edges of the handle should be rounded as much as possible. At the ends of the handle, it is necessary to make holes for further attachment to the body of the mug.

The next step in making the mug is attaching the handle to the body. Here it was necessary to apply unusual technology. We encircle the mug with copper stripes with a printed pattern. We fix the ends of the strips on one of the planes of the mug with the help of screws threaded through oak dowels. Such fastening allows you to securely fix copper and dowels on the body of the mug. Next, press the handle onto the dowels. This method makes the connection between the handle and the body of the mug secure and invisible.

I thought long and hard about making the fine hardwood floorboards left over from my uncle's house, it was a pity to see such excellent material go to waste. After watching a lot of videos on the internet on how to make a mug out of wood, I decided to make a big mug, but improved the idea a bit. I also had a piece of deer antler, and I figured it would make a good mug handle.

This mug is suitable for anything - you can cosplay a Viking to hang on your belt, you can use it for butterbeer in a Harry Potter role-playing game, or just to impress your friends.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools:

circular machine
Frazier
grinding machine
Hammer

Materials:

hardwood floor board
Wood glue
Small nails without a cap
Polyurethane
Lots of rubber bands

Step 2: Cut the floorboard

Show 3 more images

The floorboard is covered with notches, so first you need to make an ordinary rectangular one out of the floorboard. The easiest way is to cut the tongue and groove on circular machine, and then sand it so that there are no burrs left.

After that, you must decide how many edges you want to make. Suppose there are eight faces, we calculate the angle at which we will cut the board.

If you also decide to make an octagonal wooden beer mug, skip this paragraph. If you want to make more or less edges, check out my calculation. Since there are eight sides, we need to divide 360° (the number of degrees in a circle) by 8, which gives us 45°, then subtract 45° from 180° (the total number of degrees of all angles of the triangle) and divide the difference by 2 and get 67.5 ° (or 22.5° - depending on which side of the board you will measure from).

After that, install the board on circular table at an angle of 22.5 ° (because at an angle of 67.5 ° the board will be very inconvenient to saw on the machine).

Now you need to decide how high the goblet will be. I think 19 cm - optimal height. Cut eight pieces of the board at the desired angle.

Step 3: Making the Bottom

My mug has a deepened bottom, I really like it when you can see this recess if you lift the mug. I raised the bottom 19mm from the base, you need to choose which height you like best. Then make a slot on each of the eight parts on a circular machine, the same width as the thickness of the bottom that you will make. Slot depth - 6.4 mm.

Put all eight pieces together front side up and stick two strips of tape and connect the sides into a ring, make sure the sides fit snugly together. Put the ring on paper and circle the inside with a pencil. Then circle another octahedron around the octahedron so that there is a distance of 6.4 mm between the sides of the two figures (the depth of the slot in the walls). Trace the outer perimeter on a piece of wood and saw out the bottom of the mug. Make sure the edges of the bottom fit snugly into the slits on the sides of the mug, the rubber bands will help you get all the pieces of the mug together.

Step 4: Glue the Mug

At this stage, you can get a little dirty. The best way to glue a mug made of wood with your own hands is to put the sides on adhesive tape, apply glue between them and on the edge of the bottom. Then slowly twist the sides into a ring, gently tapping the bottom with a hammer so that it fits into the slots. When all sides are closed in a ring, you need to wind the gum on the outside, the more the better. Carefully remove excess glue that has come out inside and out with a clean cloth.

Step 5: Making the Edge

After the glue dries, on the grinding machine we grind the edges, walls and bottom edge a little, at the same time we get rid of possible glue residues. After that, with a milling cone, make a bevel from the outer edge of the walls to the inner ones. Some part of the surface of the walls should remain flat so that the edge of the mug is not sharp. Sand the edges of the bevel so that the transition from the edges of the beer mug to the inner walls is smooth.

In the photo, a mug before sanding the bevel. Also sand the outer edge of the mug to make it comfortable to drink from.

Step 6: Making the Handle

First, we cut off a piece of the desired height for the handle of the mug from the deer antler, align the cuts grinding machine. Choose a place where you will attach the handle. To mount the handle, use the remaining trapezoidal pieces of the board, from which the edges of the mug are sawn off.

Drill a hole on the wrong side of the trapezoidal blocks to screw the handle to them, countersink these holes. Screw the horn to the blocks, adding some wood glue between them. On the bevelled sides of the blocks, drill small holes for the nails to go into the wood of the mug.

Glue the handle on the blocks to the mug and drive the nails into the holes. Press the handle against the sides of the mug with clamps and wait for the glue to dry.

Step 7: Finishing coat

To complete the mug, I suggest covering it with a good coat of epoxy to seal the wood. I didn't have epoxy, so I used polyurethane. First I covered inner surface layer of polyurethane, then soaked a rag with it and applied an additional layer to each inner corner. At the bottom, the polyurethane layer turned out to be thicker than on the walls, so the bottom is better sealed.

Then I added a few more thin layers. Outside, I covered the mug with two layers of polyurethane. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I did. If you have any questions, write in the comments or email. Good night everybody.

PS. You can burn something on the sides or on the bottom, I'm waiting for your suggestions.

At home ancient Rus' already in the tenth century, they used made in the cooperage technique mugs, jugs, glasses and bowls. Such jugs and jugs are made almost unchanged in our time. Jugs for kvass, honey and beer are essentially large mugs that can hold about a liter of drink. They usually had drain spouts and hinged lids. Drinks were scooped from large jugs, which did not have drain spouts, with special wooden ladles. The word jug is much older than the word circle. If a jug is necessarily a wooden cooperage vessel, then a mug can be metal, clay, etc. The exception is measuring mugs that have a sufficiently large capacity. Modern measuring cups have a capacity of 1 liter. There are 10 - 12 mugs per bucket.

Nowadays, glued mugs are also made, which at first glance are no different from cooperage mugs. They are made of individual staves and tied with hoops. However, this is just an imitation. The skeleton of the mug is machined on lathe.

For making wooden mugs a massive block is glued from trihedral wooden prisms. After the glue dries, a hollow core of the mug is turned out of it on a lathe along with a moring groove for the bottom, which is inserted on the glue. After turning, each of the prisms takes the form of a cooper's riveting. Metal or wooden hoops are stuffed onto the frame, and with the help of round plug-in spikes (dowels), a figured handle with or without a figured cover is attached.

Such a mug is similar to a cooper's mug, but it cannot be used for water and drinks, as the glue can melt from moisture. Cooperage utensils are not only completely harmless, but also contribute to the acquisition of special properties by drinks that improve their quality.

For the manufacture of mugs, jugs and other cooperage vessels use wood ash, oak, linden, birch, alder, aspen, maple and juniper. Dishes made from juniper are not only beautiful, but also useful. Its aroma is reminiscent of the smell of allspice. The aroma is so persistent that it lasts for many years. It is also absorbed by drinks poured into juniper dishes. Moisturizing the wood enhances the aroma. It seems that it comes not from mugs, but from the drinks themselves - kvass, beer, etc.

Dried juniper trunks are prepared for staves of juniper vessels. Juniper is a very photophilous plant. He does not like blackouts, so it is not so difficult to find his dead wood in the forest. Juniper trunks are thin and may not split as it should be, but the wood is well processed with a knife, chisels, plows, chisels, and other tools. To save wood, juniper staves in the frame of the mug can be alternated with linden, alder or aspen.

The very best milk mugs are made from wood cedar and spruce, as it weakly absorbs liquid. Special substances contained in cedar wood contribute to the good preservation of dairy products.

For jugs, mugs, konovok and other cooperage vessels, the frames are made in the same way as for any cooperage utensils that have the shape of a truncated cone. Proportions, sizes, shape of handles and covers will be individual.

For decorative vessels, the handle may have the most unusual shape. For example, a handle adorned with sawn carving gives a jug, mug or shoe an elegant look. beautiful view. Such dishes can decorate the interior of any kitchen.

For making krkzhek with hinged lid , in the upper part of the handle, as well as in the ears of the cover, a through coaxial hole is drilled. In the handle, the diameter of the hole should be 1 - 1.5 mm smaller than in the ears of the cover. Then a round rod, machined from hardwood, when connecting the handle to the lid, will hold firmly in the lugs of the lid, but rotate freely in the hole in the handle.

The handle is attached to the frame with the help of nests cut into the riveting and fixed from above with hoops. If the rivets are thin, then instead of this method of fastening, another one is used, in which the handle is cut out of a whole piece of wood along with the riveting. After the assembly, the skeleton seems to be organically connected with it. The drain spout for the jug and forging is also cut out together with the riveting from one piece of wood.

For making lagoon– original cooperage utensils, in addition to ordinary staves, two special staves are needed. The body of the product tapers upward and has the shape of a truncated cone.

One of the rivets is cut out together with the side handle, and the other is cut out with an eye protruding above the skeleton. A tubular nose is attached to the second riveting at an angle of 45 degrees. This riveting can also be cut from a single blank, which is a section of the trunk with a knot of suitable sizes.

If the nose is made separately from the riveting, it can be machined on a lathe or cut with a knife from round timber. To do this, in a round timber, clamped in a vice, drill through longitudinal hole. First drill from one end, and then from the other. The finished wooden tube is hewn and trimmed with a knife to give it the shape of a cone. Then a hole is cut out in the rivet into which the spout is inserted.

The lid for the lagoon is best cut from a whole wide board. But you can also make it from 2 - 3 boards connected to each other on dowels. On the one hand, the lid is connected on a hinge or swivel with a side handle, and on the other, with a small lid covering the spout. A hole is hammered in the lid, into which the eye of the protruding riveting should enter. To pour a drink into the vessel, flip the large lid, to pour the small lid.

In the original cooperage vessel, which is called lagoon, details of heterogeneous cooperage utensils are used. The long tubular spout is borrowed from an ancient pail of the 13th century, the handle-bracket is the same as that of a birch bark, the side handle is like that of a jug, and the riveting with an eye is like that of a bucket or tub. Having closed the lid on the latch, the lagoons can be lifted by the handle-bracket, and also, if necessary, transferred.

Thanks to the long spout narrowed towards the end, the contents of the lagoon can be poured into dishes with a narrow neck and into small dishes. The presence of two handles (side and top) facilitates pouring drinks. The vessel is lifted by the upper handle, tilted forward by the side handle. Four rectangular holes are cut into the handle. The bottom holes serve to fix the handle on the lid. One of them should be slightly smaller than the other. So that the handle rests on the lid and does not fall through, small hangers are cut out from both ends. The ends of the handle are inserted into the sockets of the lid and secured from below with a birch wedge, which is driven into the holes located below.

The edges of the other two rectangular holes in the handle, located above, should be level with the surface of the cover. A latch cut from a birch bar is inserted into these holes. One end of the latch should fit into the eye of the riveting protruding above the frame. If the latch is pulled out of the ear, it will immediately open. To make it convenient to move the latch with your fingers, a semicircular cutout is made in its block.

Usually lagoons are made from spruce or fir. The wood of these trees light and is well processed. Finished dishes were painted oil paints. Sometimes the hoops were not painted, but covered with drying oil. The slightly golden wood of the hoops stood out beautifully against the multi-colored background.

A vessel will be very elegant if it is decorated with carvings or drawings are burned on it. Wood can be processed blowtorch or burner, etc.

Every real lover of the Russian bath has a wooden jug with chilled kvass in the waiting room, and a wooden mug flaunts on its lid. But even in a city apartment it is nice to sit over cold kvass on a hot day. And kvass, you know, is drunk from a wooden mug. We can make such a mug ourselves.

wooden mug

From the boards hardwood 30 mm thick, we cut 12 boards 220x31 mm ( conifers wood will not work: a drink in a mug will be flavored with bitterness and a resinous aroma). At an angle of 12 0, we cut off the longitudinal edges of each plank so that a trapezoid is obtained in sections, as in the figure.

We grind the boards. We stretch two tapes of adhesive tape parallel to the table with the adhesive side up and lay out the planks across the narrow edges up, applying them to each other. A canvas is formed.

We coat the adjoining edges of the boards with PVA glue, take some cylindrical object as a template and cover it with our canvas so that the adjoining edges of the boards stick tightly to each other (this requires a cylinder of suitable diameter).

We tightly tighten around the circumference with ropes or elastic bands.

When the glue is completely dry, sand inside and out. Then tighten with metal rings.

Now we cut out the bottom from the board, coat its edges with glue and insert it into the mug.

We cut out the handle and glue it.

All sharp corners sanding and rounding. The wooden mug is ready.

Every year, thousands of raids, or simply pallets, become unusable and go to the fire or turn into wood chips.

However, few people think that, even broken in several places, it can last for many years in the form of a shelf or coffee table. It just takes a little skill and imagination. Today we will tell you how, for example, to make a souvenir beer mug and a woodpile rack from a pallet.

For people who are passionate about creativity, it is usually not difficult to find suitable material. For the manufacture of various interesting things, old unnecessary furniture, a dry tree in a garden or forest are quite suitable.

And it's easy to find an old pallet. wooden pallets lying around in abundance near various commercial objects. Therefore, it is quite enough to pick up a good, clean copy and slightly disassemble it for easy loading into the car. Everything you have good material for making interesting crafts.

BIG BEER MUG!

To simplify production, we decided to take larger dimensions and make a beer mug 150×220 mm. This is largely due to its gift nature and subsequent life as an interior decoration.

To make a mug we need:

a piece of tie-down metal tape;
15 planks, cut from a pallet;
paper tape or tape;
mug handle;
the bottom of the mug;
twine;
glue.

STEP 1. Making planks

As mentioned earlier, there should be 15 slats. Their dimensions: width - 30 mm. length - 220 mm. Chamfering at an angle of 12 degrees on both sides. You can also refer to the schematic drawing presented by us above.

STEP 2. Fitting

Having made the strips, it is necessary to try them on. To create a circle, it is enough to take a liter can of paint (preferably empty). After determining the quantity, it is necessary to connect them with adhesive tape or paper adhesive tape, leaving the ends free, as in the photo.

STEP 3. Gluing

Remove the resulting wooden mat from the jar and place it on work surface with adhesive tape down Lubricate all the planks, including the extreme ones, and until the glue hardens, put the structure on the jar again, pulling it with twine.

STEP 4. Pen

While the glue dries, you need to make a handle. Note that the handle can be purchased ready-made or bent from iron, but you can also make it yourself. In our case, it turned out to be 200 × 80 mm in size. Cutting it out of the pallet is not difficult, but for

corner smoothing required grinder or active skinning.

STEP 5. Decorating.

The step is optional, but beautiful

To decorate a dried blank, it is enough to skip two holes around its entire circumference at the level of fastening the future handle. A metal tape will pass through them, fixed with short nails or screws that fasten the handle to the mug. The main thing to consider when installing decorative rings is the tightness of the tape to the wood.

STEP 6. At the bottom

The last step in assembling the mug is the installation of the bottom. The bottom of the mug should fit into the workpiece quite tightly and, if desired, it can also be smeared with a small amount of glue. Immediately after installation, the entire structure must again be wrapped with twine and left alone until completely dry. After drying, remove the twine and grind off the edges to give a presentable look.

BY THE WAY:

Pallet woodpile rack in 30 minutes!

To assemble the rack shown in the photo, you will need a 1200 × 1600 (1800) pallet. However, if you need to stack a small amount of logs, a standard 800 × 1200 pallet will do. Actually, in the manufacture of such a rack, it is enough to use the screws with which the pallet was twisted, but to give it additional strength, we recommend purchasing four mounting plates 2 mm thick and fixing them with inside every corner.

Such a rack can be installed both on the street and by the fireplace, filling the house with comfort, there will be no need to leave the house for firewood.

450 ml cartoon ceramic cat face mug with…