Weld the oven with your own hands. The most effective do-it-yourself potbelly stove (drawings and comments). Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made of rims

And in a private country house, and in your own garage or workshop, it is always nice to have a mobile or stationary potbelly stove. There are many on sale today. different models these heaters, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience with metal, suitable material and the right tools, often stoves are made independently.

It is up to the master to decide which model of a wood-burning potbelly stove to choose with his own hands, since these home-made devices can have a very different look and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls having a thickness of 2.5-3 mm, gas or oxygen cylinders, pipes of medium diameter, metal sheets and even disks from large automobile wheels.

Tools for making potbelly stoves

To work with metal, you will need special tools, some of which are available in almost every private house, while others will have to be bought or rented.

Angle grinder machine - "Bulgarian" and consumables in the form cutting discs and grinding wheels.
A welding machine with a power of 200 A, as well as consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
Metal brush.
Slag hammer.
Measuring tools - a folding ruler, a long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
Pliers, hammer, chisel.
Drill with drills for metal of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heater and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, an option made of metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe is best suited.

Suitable for any of existing models, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring heat into the room, but also warm the water.

In order to make a final choice, it is worth considering different variants and learn about the manufacturing process.

Gas bottle stove

The installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

Using one cylinder with its vertical or horizontal arrangement;
Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will give more heat, since the heating area of the furnace is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, then it can be installed even in a living room.

Materials for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of oven will need:

A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - a jumper between the firebox and the ash pan, as well as a hob will be made from it.
If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a finished cast-iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
If the appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a fragment of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel corner for the manufacture of the grate and legs. cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder, in which holes are drilled, can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the place allotted for the furnace.

Gas cylinder preparation

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in operation. In this case, a certain concentration of gas can always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. It is impossible to neglect measures for the appropriate preparation of the container, since do work it will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, is unscrewed, the hole in which it is installed is released. The container is left on the street or in the utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It must be taken into account that the liquid will have bad smell, so you need to merge it at a distance from housing.
The washed cylinder may well be used in operation, since the last remaining gas must be removed from it along with water.

Making a vertical furnace from a cylinder

The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - it indicates the location of the firebox and ash pan. For this procedure, you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her rather rigid, but elastic tape can be measured and drawn locations doors.

The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts with the help of a grinder. Cut fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox and ash pan doors

These elements are scalded, adding bumpers, hinges and a latch-handle, and they make excellent doors.
Next, the inner diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from a thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the reinforcement. Thus, a grate for a furnace is made.
Then, the installation level of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate becomes, thus, the separator of the chamber of the ash pan and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation site so that the doors close and open easily.

On the opposite side of the loops, a hook-loop for the valve, open from above, is fixed. It must securely keep the door closed while the oven is heating.
In the same way, the door is fixed on the ash pan.
It is recommended to cut off the top of the cylinder to weld on top of a round metal panel that will act as a hob.
The chimney can be discharged both through the top of the cylinder, and through the back or side wall ovens. If you choose the second option, then the top hob will be much larger, as it will be freed from the chimney.

If the balloon is upright, it will take much less space than the horizontal version, but you need to remember that any oven should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Effective potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove, you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, are able to heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to arrange a hot water tank in the vertical part of the furnace, if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in the pipes for supplying and extracting water.

The first step is to prepare the balloon, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of about 30 - 35 mm is less than the inner diameter of the cylinder.

In the bottom part of the future furnace, holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

A metal box is welded under this “grate” - this will ash pan-blower. It is then necessary to install a tightly closing door on it, which prevents coal and ash from falling out. As an air regulator she used this model will not.
Legs from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

A round hole is cut out on top of a horizontally located cylinder, from the side opposite the furnace door, on which the vertical part of the furnace will be installed.

A door is installed, which is best made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut out in the center, into which a branch pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This branch pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the furnace, and hence the intensity of burning firewood. Door hinges it is recommended to place it on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will securely close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to a horizontal body.

In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is arranged in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. the smoke, getting into this section, does not immediately go into the chimney, but lingers in the arranged chamber.

To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. Holes should be cut closer to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper must be located on the opposite side from from versions on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case, there will be installation of three similar jumpers located equidistant from each other.
The vertical assembly with the baffles already mounted is installed and welded from above to the horizontally mounted casing. A pipe for connection is welded onto the upper cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove of two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from a single cylinder, and the technology of doing work is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering difference of some elements.

Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting a chimney pipe is welded in the rear upper part of the cylinder.

For furnace door a rectangular hole is cut out - it is quite possible to fit it in size to the finished cast-iron door. If it will be purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blowing holes in brick ovens - sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

You can make a door cut from a balloon rectangular part. It is well suited for the resulting hole in terms of the size of the sides, but in the middle of it there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar with a thickness of 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
You can use two steel strips instead of wire, welded on both sides of the cylinder for its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a cylinder stove. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used to heat not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical potbelly stove

The barrel is measured and marked on its surface. locations the doors of the blower and the firebox, as well as the place of the cut. It should pass below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is first worked separately.
A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
The chimney branch pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole, a hob is threaded onto the pipe and placed, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which makes up the height of the side, will help to more long term keep the hob hot.
Further, a round metal part with holes cut in it - a grate is also welded to the underside of the upper part. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast-iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can cut a hole for the firebox door according to the markings made earlier.
The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are fixed to the door.
Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the valve are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the valve should freely enter the holder arranged by the hook.
In the lower part of the barrel, an opening is cut for the ash pan. The door is being prepared and hung - in the same way as in the case of the combustion chamber.
After that, both parts are connected into a single structure by a welded seam.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of manufacturing a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out, on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections of the door with hinges and hinges with the body are made with the help of rivets.

The regular pressure relief hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan provided.
It is recommended to immediately make a stand to accommodate the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or a corner, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without backlash.

The next step is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, according to the data obtained, a panel of the required size is cut out, in which holes for air supply are drilled. The finished grate is laid on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

A special connecting node is made for the chimney pipe in the rear upper part. After marking the desired diameter with a grinder, diametrical slots are cut at an angle of 15 º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting "teeth" are bent up - the chimney pipe inserted then will be attached to them with rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Potbelly stove from rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a pipe segment large diameter- it must be selected for the diameter of the prepared discs. The height of the segment may vary depending on the preferences of the master and the stability of the structure, but are usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the scheme and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

Are being prepared individual elements future stove - two disks, a pipe segment, a metal sheet and a chimney pipe.
All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To facilitate the adjustment of the pipe diameter to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outer edge from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

Further, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
The cut-out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
Then, you need to make a hole for the blower, otherwise the fire in the furnace simply will not burn. To do this, a window of 100–120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded into it.
It is recommended to make a hob from a steel sheet with a thickness of 4 — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
The same is done with the bottom of the furnace in order to arrange a full-fledged ash pan and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is, rather, a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free source materials, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made of rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade bourgeois is compact. It looks neat and can be designed for installation in any room. This potbelly stove is well suited in size for small country houses, as it does not take up much space and is indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the potbelly stove "Gnome"

A similar model of a potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most common case with division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will keep the heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, flue pipe, angle 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. For the burner, the lid can be made independently or bought ready-made.

Relying on drawing, on metal sheets draw details potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for fixing them inside the structure.
Rectangular holes are cut in the front panel for the firebox and blower. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and valves and hinged hinges are immediately fixed on them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
On the same panel, only from its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ 160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
After that, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. In combination, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for smoke during the combustion of the furnace. Thanks to this, each of the corners of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
IN hob two holes are cut out - for the burner and for the chimney.
Legs made of thick reinforcement or a corner are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose a frame option from a corner, which includes legs and a base for fixing the bottom and lower edges of the side panels on it.
Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld the corners on them for the entire length of the panel, they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a finished cast-iron grate should not be discounted.
Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will weigh it down a little general design, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
The top cover is welded with a chimney pipe and a cooking ring.
To make the oven look respectable, you need to clean all the welds and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and back surfaces, which will increase the safety of the operation of the furnace and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, which significantly speeds up the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks in such a way that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: a master class on making a potbelly stove from a steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A self-made one will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety regulations are observed during its installation.

The surface on which the oven is to be installed must be rigid and fire resistant. This can be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. You can also use sheet of asbestos the top is covered with a metal sheet.
Around the stove, heat-resistant drywall or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls. Also suitable for wall cladding. ceramic tiles or brick.
It is forbidden to place combustible materials and compositions near the furnace, not far from the furnace.
The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic floor.
It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
In order for the furnace to work for a long time and efficiently, only high-quality material must be chosen for its manufacture.
Before installing the potbelly stove in its permanent place, street tests must be carried out, paying special attention to the quality of welds and the accuracy of fitting all parts.

Often homeowners prefer to collect simple and useful homemade products from improvised and waste materials instead of buying ready made. And the potbelly stove is one of such useful devices.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide fast heating, while the appearance of the device for the user is often completely unimportant.

A do-it-yourself stove-stove can be made, and if desired, upgraded to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Have you also thought about assembling such a homemade product and do not know where to start? We will help you in the implementation of the task - the article describes the assembly procedure for various options for a home-made furnace, drawings and diagrams are given.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a home-made potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

Exactly combustible material, which has a different temperature and nature of combustion, dictates the principles for creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of the potbelly stove may be different, often it depends on the availability suitable material. It can be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - everything that is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

In the lower part of the chamber, a grate is placed from the grate (it can be welded from reinforcement), under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize the hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

Well, if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called - "Titan". To do this, install on top of the stove stainless steel container through which the flue pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one bookmark in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top in such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that it will be possible to cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a stove on sawdust

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - compacted sawdust inside does not burn, they slowly smolder, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove on sawdust works on the principle of long burning. The slow combustion process allows you to save resources - heat does not fly out instantly into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is airtight, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet, three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for ramming sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. With the help of this circle, the ash pan is fenced off - in it, with the help of chips or chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

A window is cut out below the welded circle, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

In the lid of the container make an exit to the chimney. The lid should fit tightly on the potbelly stove and be made of a sufficiently thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for the sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to provide a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and rammed. The cone is carefully removed, scrolling, put a lid on the barrel

You can improve the same model by adding an additional cylinder. In this version, sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this embodiment, the exit of flue gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can a potbelly stove be improved?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a mass positive qualities but also has many significant drawbacks. She is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average - every 30-40 minutes.

Besides, a large number of heat flies out through the chimney into the atmosphere, without benefiting. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is carried out without stopping.

The standard design of the potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow you to:

save fuel;
increase the efficiency of the stove;
increase heat capacity;
reduce the frequency of refueling.

The most common methods for improving the efficiency of a potbelly stove are the creation of a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and the installation of heat-resistant lining of the inner walls.

You can also improve the quality indicators of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area with the help of welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called "Buleryan", but besides it, there are many more different designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend watching a detailed master class on homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time by lining the oven with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but it will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? We have on the site detailed guide by hand with diagrams and drawings.

Option # 1 - an oven with an increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. They take as a basis a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and supplement it with a cassette from a deaf sealed cylinder. Such constructive additions significantly increase its effectiveness.

A flange is welded to the cassette cylinder with a height of about 400 mm. After installing the cylinder in the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove. To make it convenient to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when it is installed on the stove, they can immediately fall on burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

The lower part of the firewood, having fallen on the coals of the pre-ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to a lack of oxygen, but will be dried under the action of hot smoke.
Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually sinks into the firebox.
The hot gas, which has been in the cylinder for some time, gives it heat, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
At the same time, the temperature of the outgoing smoke decreases, which means that the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increase.

As a result of such modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option # 2 - long-burning potbelly stove "Bubafonya"

The low efficiency of an ordinary potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as "Bubafonya", "Filipina".

Use this model of a potbelly stove in non-residential premises - workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. For work within 9-12 hours, one bookmark of small firewood, chips, sawdust is enough. In this model heating device do not use coarsely chopped and damp firewood.

Potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuels and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Production is carried out in the following sequence:

A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut out for the chimney.
From metal (at least 10 mm in thickness), a circle is cut out, slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the pipe used for the rod).
Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated in such a way that the piston in the lowered state rises above the tank cover by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will appear in it, it will begin to smoke.
Next, they construct a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it suitable for the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the flow of air into the furnace from the street. Thus, the heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option # 3 - Filipina secondary afterburner

In the operation of the furnace, two methods were used to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. For its manufacture, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of steps for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

Cylinders are prepared for work by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that form during the operation of the grinder can provoke a gas explosion, some of which always remains in the cylinder.
In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the furnace and ash pan, the tap is removed and the top is cut off (it is used to make a door), a hole is cut out for installing a chimney.
Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the cover of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded, it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder in the place where the top is cut, in which the places for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
The upper chamber is put on the pipe, aligning the holes, a heat-resistant tourniquet is wound between the rings, and the connection is fixed with screws.
The chimney outlet is made from the bottom of the secondary afterburner chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install awning doors. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the furnace.

Small country house, garage or workshop can be heated with a small compact metal furnace called bourgeois. It can be made from old steel pipe, a gas cylinder, a barrel and even an old flask, and weld it from sheets of metal. The most important thing is that the metal for the manufacture of such a furnace is not too thin.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder, an old flask, barrels and a spent fuel stove

Materials and tools

To create a potbelly stove you will need:
metal with a thickness of 3 ± 0.5 mm: thinner sheets will burn out quickly, in addition, under the influence of high temperature they can lead, and the furnace will become shapeless; thick-walled metal will warm up for a very long time;
chimney pipe;
bars 16 mm;
a sheet of metal with a thickness of 0.3 mm or more for the device of a box for collecting ash;
tape measure, ruler, chalk;
welding machine 140-200A;
grinder for cutting metal; for making round holes it is more convenient to use a gas cutter;
metal brush for cleaning places of welding;
emery wheel for fitting doors;
drill and drills.

Bourgeois schemes

The main advantage of the rectangular stove, unlike oval products made of pipes or gas cylinders, consists in a larger area of the heated surface, so its efficiency will be much greater. The optimal size for a potbelly stove is 800x450x450 mm. An oven of this size does not take up much space and can easily fit even in a small room.

The simplest design is the Gnome stove, which consists of a box with a pipe welded to it.

An important difference loginov ovens is the presence of two plates ( reflectors) in the upper part of the furnace compartment. Because path of gases at the same time, the heat transfer of such a potbelly stove is significantly higher than that of a conventional metal furnace.

Advice. If it is required to reduce the size of the Loginov furnace, then it is desirable to change only its width. When changing the length and height of the structure, its efficiency can be significantly reduced.

Detailed diagram of Loginov's potbelly stove

The main stages in the manufacture of potbelly stoves

1. All details are marked on a sheet of metal: 6 steel rectangles for the walls of the furnace, 1 rectangle for creating a smoke reflector, plates for the grate and a latch for the door.
2. cut out a sheet of metal is possible at any metal base. The guillotine, unlike the grinder, allows you to cut (chop) it more accurately. In this case, straightening (aligning sheets) will not have to be done.
3. The furnace body is made in the form of a rectangle. Their sides are joined together at an angle of 90 ° and welded together.

Box welding

4. To avoid mistakes, the oven box is first only tacked by welding in several places, and only then, after checking its horizontal and vertical, its seams are welded.

Important! All connections in the body are carefully welded; to check seams for tightness, you can coat the joints with chalk or kerosene.

5. Welding seams are cleaned with a metal brush.
6. The internal space of the potbelly stove is divided into three parts: a firebox, a smoke chamber and an ash pan. To separate the firebox from the ashpit, a grate is laid between them, on which the fuel will be placed. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the furnace from the sides and on the back of the box are welded corners 5x5 cm on which the lattice will be located.

Advice. The grate is best made from 2-3 detachable parts. Otherwise, when replacing a burned-out grate, it will be difficult to get it out of the furnace.

7. The grating is welded from thick steel bars or strips 30 mm wide. They are attached to 2 stiffeners - rods with a diameter of 20 mm. Since the grate burns out over time, it is better to make such a grate removable.

Making a grate

8. At a distance of 15 cm from the top of the box, two strong rods are welded on which will be placed one or two removable reflectors- thick-walled metal sheets that will delay the flow of hot gases and send them for afterburning. However, they should not completely block the oven. In order for hot smoke to be able to enter the pipe, about 8 cm is indented from the front (for the first sheet) and the back of the furnace.

Scheme of the passage of gases in the simplest potbelly stove and a furnace with an installed reflector

pipe hole

10. The front part of the furnace with holes cut out in it for the doors of the furnace and ash pan, is welded last.
11. The size of the firebox door should be sufficient so that it is possible to load fuel and change the grate without effort. The hole for the ash pan is made a little smaller.
12. The hinges are first welded to the door, and then to the potbelly stove body. They can be bought ready-made or welded from two tubes of different diameters. Door handles can be made from a strip of metal or a bar.

Door welding

Important! When attaching doors, fit them to the body as tight as possible; for this, they are straightened (aligned) and cleaned with an emery wheel. The wedge locks that close the doors are fitted to the body as tightly as possible.

13. On such an oven you can cook food or warm water. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the upper part of the box. Burner for oven, which will be inserted into this hole, can be purchased at any hardware store.
14. For ease of use design mounted on legs or a welded pipe stand.
15. The chimney is connected to the stove using a sleeve.
16. For inserting a slide gate, regulating the exit of smoke, two holes are drilled in the pipe. A metal rod is inserted into the holes and bent at 90 °. A "penny" made of metal is attached to it in the center of the pipe - a gate, the diameter of which should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe itself by 3-4 mm.

Smoke damper

Chimney device

So that precious heat does not leave too quickly through the pipe, it must have special design. Such a device has two main parts: vertical height from 1.2 m, installed at an angle of 90 ° above the furnace and an inclined part, called upland, 2.5-4.5 m long or more, in which the smoke burns out. It is the hog that gives up to 1/4 of the heat of the entire furnace.

Chimney Hogs

A tall person can touch a heated pipe, so the bur must have a protective cover in the form of a mesh. To avoid burns, the distance from the floor to this pipe should be 2.2 m. The vertical part of the pipe coming from the furnace is additionally wrapped with thermal insulation.

Important! The pipe should be located away from the plastered walls at a distance of 1.2 m. The distance from wooden structures- 1.5 m.

Advice. Laying a pipe through a wooden ceiling and roof is a rather laborious process. It is much easier to bring it out through a hole in the wall or window.

Smoke outlet through the window

Rules for the safe installation of a metal furnace

A potbelly stove heats up much more strongly than a brick oven, so all flammable objects should be at a sufficient distance from the stove. If the floor in the room is wooden, it is installed only on bricks or a metal sheet. The metal, in turn, is laid on a sheet of asbestos with its removal 35 cm or more from the edges of the stove. In front of the firebox, it should protrude 5.5 cm. Asbestos can be replaced with felt soaked in clay. You can also install such a screen to reflect heat on concrete.

Important! A working oven requires supervision. You should not leave the room where the potbelly stove is heated for a long time.

Installing a potbelly stove on a brick base

Increasing the efficiency of the furnace

The potbelly stove is able to heat the room in just a few minutes. Moreover, everything that comes to hand can be thrown into the furnace: since it does not have an extensive network of chimneys, and the smoke in it comes out “directly”, you can not be afraid that they will clog.

But if a conventional heating stove installed in rooms for permanent residence, has an extensive network of chimneys that trap heat, in a potbelly stove it goes directly into the pipe, so its efficiency is not too high. That is why it is too “gluttonous” and requires a lot of fuel.

To reduce fuel consumption, you can use the following tips from experienced stove-makers:
firebox door and blower in such an oven should be as tight as possible; otherwise, the air supply to the potbelly stove will increase, and the fuel will burn out too quickly;
to regulate the output of warm smoke in the chimney it is desirable to provide a gate valve;
next to the oven, you can provide side metal screens at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stove, in which case it will heat the room not only due to heat radiation, but also with the help of convection (circulation warm air);
a potbelly stove, “dressed” in a metal casing, will help keep the heat much longer;

Potbelly stove in a casing

Round furnace with an afterburner and a casing with a heat gun

To retain heat in the room, it is necessary to increase the elbow in the pipe; however, at the same time, soot will linger in them, therefore it is desirable to create a collapsible structure;
the pipe can also be given a stepped shape: place the knees in stages, with each step making a turn of 30 °; at the same time, each of the knees must be securely attached with bars to the wall;

Stove with chimney elbows

chimney capacity should be less than the productivity of the furnace itself, in which case hot gases will not go into the pipe immediately; its diameter should be only 2.7 times larger than the volume of the furnace, for example, with a furnace volume of 40 liters, the diameter should be 110 mm;
you can increase the efficiency of the furnace and with the help of blowing the chimney with a fan- this will turn the stove into a kind of smoke gun;
to reduce air circulation firewood in the oven should fit as tightly as possible; if it is heated with coal, it is necessary to stir up the resulting ash as rarely as possible;
to adjust the air flow, the door to the blower can be made adjustable by providing it with vertically located slots and shutter, which will cover these gaps;
to increase the heating area, it can be ribbed, that is, welded onto its body perpendicular to the furnace metal strips;
if you put steam on the stove buckets or metal box with sand, then they will accumulate heat and store it even after the furnace is extinguished; sand backfill or heat accumulator made of stones can be sewn inside the metal body of the furnace;

Scheme of a potbelly stove with sand filling, the furnace is made of a pipe with a diameter of 500 mm, its length is 650 mm

Bake, lined with 1-2 layers of brick, will keep warm much longer;

brick screen

The volume of the furnace also matters: the more the area of its walls, the more heat they will give into the room;
bricks or sheet metal, on which the stove is installed, will help not only to protect the room from fire, but also to keep warm.

Sometimes situations arise when it is necessary, without significant material costs, to heat a small-sized room (garage, workshop or warehouse) as efficiently and quickly as possible. Great solution problems will be a compact do-it-yourself potbelly stove, the creation of which requires ingenuity, desire, tools and metal.

A simple potbelly stove can be built from materials that are at hand. You can use an ordinary can or a thick-walled barrel. Long-term practice has shown that very thick metal (over 8 mm) is too difficult to warm up. Thus, the efficiency is reduced and most of the heat is not used for heating.

If the metal is too thin, under the influence of high temperatures it will begin to deform and quickly lose its original shape. The best of the options is the walls of about 3-4 mm.

Introductory video on the operation of the furnace

Rectangular potbelly stove with reflector

Deciding the question of what shape and size the finished potbelly stove should take, everyone should independently. A person with engineering education and skills can take any, even the simplest design, and make the desired changes to it, aimed at improvements.

Drawing of a rectangular potbelly stove:

A simple and multifunctional do-it-yourself potbelly stove is made from the following materials:

Sketches and a simple design drawing showing all major dimensions
Sheet metal (its quantity depends on the desired dimensions of the furnace)
Steel corners (thickness 4-5 mm)
Metal tube 25-30 mm
Pipe 180 mm
Welding machine
Working hand and electric tools

The furnace body will be made in the form of a rectangle with steel sheets that are butt-welded together. It is necessary to cut blanks under five main planes (bottom, top, side and back walls). On the front panel there will be a blower and a door for the furnace, so it will be possible to resolve the issue with it later.

Welded first side surfaces to the bottom. It is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly vertically, using a level or square, and joined at a right angle. Having grabbed in 2-3 places, once again we are convinced of the correctness of their location and we finish welding.

After the back wall is welded. All internal space must be divided into three parts:

smoke circulation
Firebox
Ash pan

The last two must be separated by a grate, on which it will be laid solid fuel(peat, firewood). It is done as follows:

From the inside, on the sides at a certain height (10-15 cm), corners are welded to the entire length
For the grate, it is necessary to prepare strips of 25-30 mm wide from thick sheet steel and a length corresponding to the width of the potbelly stove

The distance between the plates is about 5 cm
The strips are welded to two metal rods with a diameter of 15-20 mm as reliably as possible, since they have one more role to play - stiffeners

There is no need to weld the grille to the inner corners. If necessary (cleaning the potbelly stove, repair), it can be easily obtained. After some time, some plates may burn out and need to be replaced. There are many more reasons to leave the grille removable.

In the next step, it is necessary to weld two metal rods on top, on which the reflector will be located. The latter is a metal sheet that separates the chimney and the firebox. The reflector is removable.

It is necessary to position the reflector so that a channel is formed in front, allowing the smoke to escape. It will warm up inside the most, so it is made of very thick metal (12-16 mm).

It's time to start the final stages of work. First, the potbelly stove is welded. It will not be superfluous to provide a hole for the chimney in advance. Then the upper jumper is cut out and welded, then a narrower one, placed at the level of the grate and separating the doors of the grate and the ash pan.

Don't worry too much about the size of the doors. The main thing is that through them it was convenient to lay firewood and remove ashes with ashes. The door for the firebox is made, as a rule, almost the entire width, so that you can remove the reflector and the grate, for the ash pan - narrower.

Having collected everything together, it is time to think about how to install the finished structure on the legs. They are recommended to be made from a metal tube 2-3 cm in diameter and 8-10 cm in length with a nut welded on the end and a bolt screwed in. This will allow you to adjust the height. To many, this step may seem strange, but during the installation process everything will become clear.

It's time to think about a chimney, which will be made of a pipe with a diameter of 15-18 cm. At the same time, it should be brought out through a hole in the wall. Bends are made at an angle of 45 degrees, there should not be any sections located horizontally.

At the lower end of the chimney, a rotating damper must be provided. For it, a circle is cut out of sheet metal, with a diameter slightly smaller than that of a pipe, in which a hole is drilled for a handle for rotation. The latter can be made from a metal bar.

It is necessary to place the chimney on a sleeve 15-20 cm high. It is made from a product with a diameter slightly smaller than the chimney and is welded along the hole to top cover. It's time to install a potbelly stove, adjust the height and that's it - you can heat the room.

A simple potbelly stove from a can

The most simple potbelly stove with their own hands is made from an ordinary can. There is no need to talk about the durability of such a design, but it is quickly built, easy to install and gives enough heat.

All work consists in mounting the legs, arranging the outlet pipe and some cosmetic operations. For work you need:

can
Chimney pipe
Wire for grate
Welding machine
Tools

Getting Started

We install the can horizontally and mark where the blower will be, having the shape of a rectangle or sickle. Put it under the lid
A hole is cut in the wall or bottom of the can equal to the diameter of the chimney pipe
To make a grate, you need to stock up on steel wire. It is bent, carried inside through the lid and gently unbent so that the zigzag is in the desired position, while it remains convenient to lay chips, firewood, etc.
The can must be fixed on the legs, which are cut out of tubes or corners and welded
The chimney is welded

A reflector can be mounted on the outside of the tank, due to which less heat will escape. Having welded handles from the sides, the structure can be transferred to any other place.

Pros and cons of homemade bourgeoisie

Among the many advantages of such a nondescript but useful installation are:

Full autonomy and energy independence
Work on any solid fuel, including plant residues - this saves a lot of money
Versatility of the design, which can not only be installed in various rooms, but also used for cooking
A simple design that you can build yourself from the materials available in the garage
There is no need to build a monolithic foundation and install a capital chimney

But despite the significant and numerous advantages, a number of minuses of the bourgeoisie can be distinguished:

The high thermal conductivity of the metal leads to rapid fuel burnout and furnace cooling.
If the wall thickness is insufficient, they will soon begin to burn out and the furnace will fail.
It is necessary to watch the combustion process and throw firewood in time, control the draft
Resinous and damp logs cause hard-to-remove soot in the chimney

Video - another option for making a furnace

In custody

A homemade potbelly stove is a reliable and efficient assistant in a cold workroom or your own garage. Its manufacture is not difficult, and to start work there is no need for large material investments.

The potbelly stove has always helped out in emergency situations and has been a reliable assistant to summer residents, motorists with a garage, as well as owners of small private houses.

Today, it often takes on a new look, developed by interior designers, so it fits well into the halls of elite mansions. Is it possible to make this useful, and sometimes simply necessary, heating device with your own hands if you do not have enough experience in welding and cutting metal?

Of course, yes, and once again, yes, in order to weld a potbelly stove, you just need to understand the general principles of metal welding, even if you get a crooked seam - you can always clean it with a grinder, look at the photo below, which furnace the novice welded, which the welding machine held only twice in a lifetime:

Tools required for the job

For the manufacture of any metal structures You need a specific set of tools, which include:

Welding machine, at least 200A and electrodes, protective mask and suit for welding;
Bulgarian (grinder), cutting and grinding wheels for metal. Some curly parts can only be cut with a gas cutter.
Skimmer(hammer);
Metal brush;
Ordinary hammer, chisel, pliers;
Roulette, folding rule and chalk for marks;
Drill and drill bits for metal.

Types of homemade bourgeois

For different rooms you can choose your type of potbelly stove, which is more suitable for technical specifications and by appearance. They are made from metal tanks, pipes of medium diameters, barrels, gas cylinders and sheets with a thickness of at least 3-5 mm.

For heating in the garage, any of the options for a potbelly stove is suitable, but for use in a residential area, it is better to refuse some models.

Therefore, you need to consider the most popular options for potbelly stoves in order to find out which one to choose and make yourself.

Potbelly stove at work - simple and cheap

This is exactly the option that is not very suitable for use in rooms where people live. The explanation is simple - when burning, oil mining emits a specific smell, even if a good hood is arranged.

Required for manufacturing sheet metal 4-5 mm thick, from which all the necessary details will be cut. A pipe is also needed for the manufacture of some elements of a potbelly stove and a chimney.

In the diagram below, all the dimensions of the parts need to prepare.

On a metal sheet, an accurate marking of all elements is made and cut out with a grinder. All edges of the parts are carefully cleaned.
Round holes are drilled in the prepared pipe of the required height. It will connect the upper and lower containers of the potbelly stove.
In the upper plane of the upper tank, in the place indicated according to the scheme, a hole of the required diameter is cut. It is offset from the center to the left side and will be intended for the chimney pipe. On the bottom wall, the hole is offset to the right side of the circle, and the connecting pipe will enter it.
Two circles are welded to a piece of pipe, which will determine the thickness of the upper tank.
Do the same for the bottom of the oven. Only a hole for the pipe to enter is cut in the center of the circle. In addition, another one is cut out, which will serve as a neck for filling the furnace. A sliding cover is attached to it.
Three or four legs are welded onto the lower solid plane.
For rigidity, the upper tank is connected to the lower metal brackets.
In order for the stove to be beautiful and not rust, all welds are well cleaned, and then all surfaces are painted with protective heat-resistant paint.
The last step in the work is connecting the furnace to the chimney.

Such a furnace works as follows: mining is poured into the lower tank, then with the help of a torch or rolled paper, it is ignited through the hole. The sliding cover on the hole is closed after the mining inside the tank lights up. Oxygen entering through the holes in the pipe that connects the two tanks contributes to intense combustion. Hot air passing through the top of the stove heats it up to a high temperature, so you can easily heat a kettle on its surface. Since there is always spent fuel in the garage, there will never be problems for refueling the potbelly stove.

Potbelly stove from an old barrel or pipe

This stove can be made from ordinary metal barrel or pipes of a certain diameter. It is quite suitable for installation in a residential area of a summer residence, and with a beautiful, neat design, it can also be suitable for a residential building.

On right level future furnace two rectangular holes are marked and cut out, which will be the entrances to the furnace and ash pan.
The cut parts are useful for making doors. They are framed with metal strips, bringing them to the desired size, and a special handle with a latch is installed.
About ten centimeters below the firebox door, inside the barrel or pipe, corner brackets are welded on which the grate will be laid.
The grate can be independently welded from reinforcement.
If the stove is made of a pipe, its bottom and upper part are welded.
Legs are welded to the bottom bottom part.
A hole for the chimney is cut out in the top panel, and a pipe is welded into it.
Then the doors are installed on the fixed hinges. According to their location, a hook for the lock is marked and fixed.
In order for the oven to have an aesthetic appearance, all welding seams must be carefully cleaned. If then the oven is covered with heat-resistant paint, then it will be impossible to distinguish it from the factory product.
Then, when the stove is completely ready, it is connected to the chimney brought out into the street.

Generally , good option potbelly stoves, if there is enough space for it in the room, since this model will take up a fairly large area. It should be noted that the top panel of the potbelly stove is large enough, and you can safely install a kettle or, for example, a frying pan on it.

Potbelly stove from a bad gas cylinder

The gas cylinder has an almost ready-made shape for a good potbelly stove.

The top of the cylinder with a tap is cut off, and a plug is subsequently welded to this place.
A square hole is cut in its bottom part, which will serve as an entrance to the furnace. The cut part should also not be thrown away. It is scalded, and thus the canvas for the door will be ready.
A handle lock is attached to it, and the door is installed on welded hinges.
Holes are made on the wall of the cylinder, which will be the bottom of the future stove - they themselves will play the role of a grate.
Under them, a box made of more thin metal. It will be an ash pan, for dumping waste from burnt firewood, which at the same time plays the role of a blower. It is also necessary to fix the door to the ash pan.
After that, the legs are welded - they can be made from a metal corner or pipes.
A round hole is cut in the upper back of the potbelly stove, a chimney pipe is welded into it.
If necessary, you can also arrange a hob on top. To do this, it is enough to weld a frame of steel reinforcement on the top of the cylinder. On such a hob, it is quite possible to place two items - for example, for cooking and heating water.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder is perfect for both a garage space and a room in a country house.

One of the home masters shares his experience on how to make a potbelly stove with his own hands from a cylinder with its vertical arrangement:

Video tutorial on building a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

Potbelly stove made of rectangular sheet steel

This is perhaps the most optimal, an aesthetic, compact version of all the bourgeois stoves proposed above. It is best suited for heating residential premises. The design of this stove is clearly visible in the two diagrams presented.

Compact, easy to perform "Gnome"

The first of them shows the oven "Gnome". It has a simple structure: two chambers - a firebox and an ash pan, a chimney pipe and legs.

The second diagram shows a more complex internal design of the potbelly stove, which will help it retain heat for a longer period. This potbelly stove is worth considering.

To make this stove, you will need sheet metal, at least 3 mm thick, a 5 × 5 cm corner, a chimney pipe, and a cover for the burner.
On metal sheets marking is done and all the necessary details are drawn: the walls of the furnace, the bottom of the potbelly stove, the hob; grate, two internal metal plates that direct the flow of burnt gases, afterburn them, and delay the rapid release of heat.
Two rectangular holes are cut in the front wall of the furnace for the firebox and the blower. Here, doors with locks and heck for them will subsequently be fixed on the hinges.
A neat opening for the burner is cut out in the upper plane (depending on the size of the purchased part), as well as a hole for the chimney.
Legs are attached to the bottom, bottom part.
The side panels mark the place where the grate will be placed. Corners are welded to these places, they will become brackets for the grate.
In order to make a grate, you can drill a large number of round holes in a sheet of metal, or weld a lattice of reinforcement.
In the upper part of the potbelly stove, at a distance of 16 cm from the hob, a plate is welded, having a length of 8 cm less than the depth of the potbelly stove, i.e. it should not reach the rear wall of the furnace body by 8 cm.
The same plate is welded to back wall, above the first plate by 8 cm, it should not reach the front panel also by 8 cm. Thus, after mounting all the parts, a labyrinthine a corridor through which hot air will pass, heating these plates, and not allowing the heat to immediately go into the pipe.
Next, you need to mount together all the details of the potbelly stove by welding. All joints of parts are necessarily reinforced with a metal corner.
Lastly, the chimney pipe is welded, and all welds are cleaned.
To give the potbelly stove a spectacular look, it is painted with heat-resistant paint.

Rules for the safe installation of a potbelly stove

In order for home-made to bring only comfort and warmth to the house, and not create problems, it is necessary to follow safety rules.

The stove is installed on a fire-resistant surface. It can be arranged from tiles or in the form brickwork. The walls around the stove also need to be protected from overheating. This can be done with fire-resistant special drywall or other non-combustible material.
Flammable materials must not be placed near the firebox.
The room where the oven will be located must have a good ventilation system. This is important in order to exclude the possibility of accumulation of carbon monoxide in the room.
For the manufacture of any potbelly stove, it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

The potbelly stove will serve both effectively and for a long time, it will be a good helper in household chores and will warm you on winter evenings. The main thing is to think over the model well, make it carefully, and observe all the requirements for safe handling during operation.