Do-it-yourself heating stoves. Do-it-yourself brick oven for the home: step-by-step instructions with a photo Fold the cooking stove with your own hands step-by-step instructions

Figure 1 - Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular option for heating private houses. Of course, now there are many different heating options, but still, the stove remains a very popular option for heating a house, its individual rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a dryer, steam room in the bath, make a lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick ovens?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

1. This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying stoves, only Construction Materials natural origin, when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
2. After heating, the stove keeps heat for a long time.
3. It can harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.
4. It is a multifunctional product - in addition to space heating, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and healing properties therapeutic sleep on the stove and are generally known.

What should I pay attention to when choosing the parameters of the furnace and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element, with its help you can maintain comfort in the room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of the dimensions of the furnace and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the stove, the more heat it will give, and the longer it will cool down after the heating is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, giving off maximum amount heat, looked towards these rooms. It is no secret that the sides of the oven emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the furnace in the room.

What kind of brick should be used in the construction of the furnace?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the furnace, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, in which the smoke temperature will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Red kiln ceramic brick. Has the best features. Furnace brick withstands high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick lays out the furnace part.
3. Chamotte brick. This brick is laid out inner part combustion chamber. It withstands temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has a high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

It is impossible to lay out the furnace only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the furnace must be laid out with stove bricks.

What mortar is needed to bond bricks?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different types of bricks. Solution in different parts will also be different:

1. Cement-sand. Parts of the furnace, which are laid out with ordinary red brick, are placed on an ordinary mortar.
2. Mortar based on M400 cement. A mortar based on cement of this brand and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
3. clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
   Clay is a very important component of the solution. It is best to use a red oven. When frozen, it should not crumble and crumble.
   The solution should be of medium density - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold the oven with your own hands?

To do this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove-maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step by step instructions.

Stage 1 - Choosing a place for the furnace

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove is heated, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage, does not block the light. There should not be any furniture or combustible utensils near the stove, which can ignite when the stove is very hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: lay firewood, take out and throw away ashes, work on the stove, etc. Also, next to the stove, there should be a place for storing a small pile of firewood, so that at any time you can add a couple of poleshin to the fire.

Step 2 - Sizing the Furnace

Everything is simple here: the larger the oven, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room for a longer amount of time. However, such a stove needs to be heated up longer and more firewood is needed for heating.
A small one is faster to drown, but there will be less heat from it and it will be faster.

Stage 3 - Choosing a brick and its quantity

Next, you need to choose a brick from which the furnace will be laid out. It is best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during masonry.

Stage 4 - Site preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface, cover it with roofing material. If necessary, formwork can be made from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done in good faith.

Stage 5 - Laying the first row - the underfloor part

The first row is the basis of the future design. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level, if necessary, we make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 - Installing the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which ash from the combustion chamber will pour. To fix the door, the hardened wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks on the mortar.

Stage 7 - Laying out the flame section

The fire chamber is laid out from heat-resistant furnace and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will fall down.

Stage 8 - Installing the combustion chamber door

Important milestone construction works. It is installed by analogy with the blower door. The furnace door must be securely fastened as much as possible, because. it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 - Laying the rows of the furnace part

Stage 10 - Installing the plate

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well smeared with mortar and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not go through the cracks into the room, and flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 - Laying the chimney

Different parts of the chimney that will be affected by different temperatures are again laid out with different types of bricks. In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the view and the chimney valve. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is on, the damper is extended and allows smoke to escape through the chimney to the outside; when it is not in use or the heating is completed, the damper is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 - Exit the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

1. Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
2. Metal.
3. Stainless steel.
4. Brick. The laying of the furnace continues after the chimney, which smoothly passes into the pipe and exits above the roof.
5. Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
6. Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and fixtures for work

To perform the work you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Pick.
3. Building level.
4. Owl shovel.
5. Plumb.
6. Putty knife.
7. Roulette.
8. Pliers.
9. Bulgarian.
10. Sieve.

Figure 11 - Tool required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and fixtures:

1. Brick (furnace, construction, fireclay).
2. Formwork boards.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Chimney damper.
5. Chimney flue.
6. Form for mixing the solution.
7. Blower door.
8. Furnace door.
9. Cement.
10. Mountain sand.
11. Red clay.
12. Water.

Conclusion

Laying the stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a place, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the furnace. It is necessary to correctly choose the dimensions of the furnace based on the size of the room and the purpose of the furnace, correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To lay the oven, you need to prepare different types bricks, knead a quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the furnace and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors work properly, whether the structure is hermetically folded, etc. In case of finding minor flaws, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the heating is completed and the furnace has cooled down.

Brick kitchen stoves for the house.

Based on the design, cookers are divided into simple and complex. Cookers of a simple design have neither a hot box nor an oven. Complex stoves include stoves that have an oven or a hot-water box, as well as stoves with both at the same time. The firebox at the stove can be located both on the end side and on any side. The size of the slab is affected by the design, the size of the cast-iron flooring (in the slab of cast iron) and the dimensions of the stove appliances. As for the drawings of kitchen stoves, they were developed for cast iron stoves and stove appliances certain sizes. And for this stove, you can not change the dimensions of the stove appliances.

Before you start laying, you need to buy oven appliances in accordance with the specification. Sometimes stove appliances - hot water boxes, ovens - are produced in a handicraft way. Their dimensions must comply with the drawings.

Eleventh row brickwork the binding is made of angle steel. With the help of it, the plate acquires a finished look, and the upper working plane is also protected from destruction.

In the event that the plate does not adjoin to the chimney or heating shield, then the strapping is done from all sides, if the plate is adjacent, then from three. It is advisable to lay the strapping frame and the cast-iron plate on the clay-asbestos mortar. It is necessary that their upper planes are on the same level.

When the strapping is done on four sides, no clamps need to be installed on the frame. When strapping is carried out from two or three sides, the ends of the frame are laid in the masonry of the shield, clamps can be placed on the ends.

Kitchen stove simple design.

The size in terms of a stove without an oven is 51x89 centimeters, the height with an average five-millimeter thickness of the seams is 77 centimeters. Heat output with two fireboxes per day - 700 kcal / h. The plate is placed under the cast iron flooring measuring 71x41 centimeters. It can be connected to a chimney or heating shield in several ways: from the side opposite to the firebox, and from any side.

A hole for connecting to a heating panel or a chimney is made in the third row of brickwork (its cross section is 13x13 centimeters).

The combustion chamber has a width of 26 centimeters, a height of 35 centimeters. The smoke gases wash over the cast iron floor plate. Then they descend along a vertical channel having a cross section of 13x26 centimeters (half a brick per brick) and fall into the connecting channel.

The cleaning door is installed opposite this channel.

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The oven is rude and a source of considerable confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not a well-established term. In Western and, partially, in South Slavic languages, rude is either just a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to Dutch, Swede, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. fly out on a request in RuNet.

In fact, a stove with a coarse, or simply a coarse, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating shield, separate from the stove according to the thermal cycle, but technologically integrated, i.e. they are built jointly (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there can be no bell-shaped coarse - heating shields for furnaces are always channel. Do-it-yourself rough is built simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires fewer materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (similar to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude people are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not hit the budget.

Note: heating and cooking rough brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob - 1200-1350, - 1800-2000, - 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

Do-it-yourself grubka can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the furnace, and then it looks indistinguishable from a stove, pos. 1 in fig. The rough-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough-slabs are placed for the most part in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor if its bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf / sq. m.

Rough with an attached shield (pos. 2) is structurally more complicated and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. Rough on wood with an attached shield is capable of developing up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The diagram of the flue gas current in the rough with a shield is given in pos. 3; the popular Galanka oven was built on this basis. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a rough for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during the construction, it will be necessary to pay special attention to some features of the coarse furnaces, which are considered in a significant part of the material of the article.

Note: wood-fired roughening can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is undesirable to heat such coal, the couch overheats.

Why is rude - rude

Visually, a rough oven can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the structure (pos. 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of heat engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results is also a solid practical experience. It is much easier to develop and build a rough because its furnace (firing) part and shield are calculated separately, and then “blinded” together according to the rules of conjugation building structures taking into account the requirements of thermal engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because. the interaction of the thermal cycles of the firing part and the shield is not taken into account, namely, due to its consideration, it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, if you live in a region with a harsh climate, it may only make sense for you as a seasonal temporary oven.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences between a rough stove and a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace part. The tooth traps hot gases under hob, which in the summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In rough it is not needed, because. excess heat will be used for heating.

The coarse furnace should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with enhanced draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool down. Their thermal energy will go into a mechanical one, which will successfully fly into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This is the reason for the special requirements for the firebox and furnace fittings of coarse, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose, rough heating shields are made for them different types. Schemes of heating shields for furnaces are given in fig. below; the fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

1. Consistent stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to the current of gases is the greatest. The compactness and heat efficiency of the furnace are average. The most commonly used scheme;
2. Sequential course with horizontal channels. The mass and dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the heat efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to arrange a couch, i.e. the upper channel does not get very hot;
3. Consistent stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is like that of a shield with horizontal channels, technological complexity is like that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and good foundation(see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. The highest thermal efficiency, the smallest mass per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Use with a fire chamber of the reduced power is possible. Optimum for an extension to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: there are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chess. The most complex, but also the lightest, resistance to the flow of gases is the least. Only possible variant for a rough house with a heated attic, see below.

Special Requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rude - compactness and the ability to build in existing house without the production of capital construction works. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful furnace in the structure of the furnace in general of the same dimensions, it will quickly become unusable due to excessive heat load. If special requirements are not met for:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry solutions.
• Ways of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installation of furnace fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is given in Fig. The crushed stone pillow without sand filling is leveled into the horizon before pouring. Filling mortar M150 - cement M300 and sand 1: 2. The gap between the rubble foundation and flooring is 30-40 mm. Do not forget to support the cut logs! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but gross mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in the plan should protrude on the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: a brick bed on the foundation for the furnace is laid out with dressing in rows and between rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry of the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on a lime mortar, as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. Sand for clay mortar is highly desirable to take mountain or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-digging clay, brought to the desired fat content with sand, is of little use for rough masonry.

masonry

For masonry, a stove is used and, if the order (see below) is provided, fireclay bricks; the red worker is suitable for the highest quality - light red in color (completely annealed), without burn marks, warping and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is rough. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove-maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in trimming / chipping of bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. It is impossible to plump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A layer of mortar 5 mm is applied to the bed and poke of the brick being laid.
• The brick to be laid is laid with a smooth movement slightly with an inclination and moved to the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam converges to 3 mm; can't be tapped!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing - 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after cleaning the excess mortar are filled with mortar by indentation without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

accessories

Fittings and grates for coarse need cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with lugs for straight whiskers (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in fig. on the right, it’s impossible to be rude; It's not by oven rules at all. For a country Dutch woman 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe it will work, but not for being rude.

It is necessary, firstly, to compress the whiskers (wire - galvanized 2-3 mm) with wrapping so that they do not move. Press at first not tight, set to the desired angle (from the far end of the mustache to inside masonry should remain at least 12 mm). Then gently tighten, shake the door/latch lightly. Haven't left? Good. Then, secondly, you need to wrap the skirt tightly with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories in the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grate and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple coarse for a seasonal dacha or a temporarily inhabited house. The peculiarity is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and if it is already warm enough outside, it does not allow the stove to overheat the room during cooking.

On the trail. rice. - the ordering of a single-burner coarse is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This option is more for a hunting lodge or a summer house, where they spend the weekend in the winter.

Further on fig. - ordering the house heating and cooking coarse with switching to winter and summer running (two-way). This stove is quite complicated, but quite economical both in winter and in summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. - ordering and drawings of the heating rough - fireplace stove (furnace door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rude is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment - with a facade to the living room and rear to 2 adjacent rooms; the partition between them falls on the back side (back) of the furnace. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in fig. below the scheme and order are rough with a stove bench: a cooking part in the kitchen / hallway with a bathroom; couch - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove-maker. For a firebox in warm weather, the stove bench is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen / hallway will have to be kept wide open, because. there is no switchover to summer running.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional shield with staggered channels is located (in the inset at the bottom right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if you take a glass firebox door. She is 2-way; ZLH on the drawings - the valve of the summer course.

About chimneys

The chimney for rough must meet all the rules fire safety. Here it is only necessary to note that best chimney for rough - sandwich, because. it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If rough is your first oven (which is quite possible), don't rush to build, model on the table first. Suddenly there is a little extra money - you can buy a kit for modeling furnaces with ordering schemes and plastic bricks on a scale, such are sold. No - bricks can also be cut to scale from foam. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

There are many options for heating a summer house today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.

But if it is not possible to realize all this due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove will become great solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of households, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove-maker are not cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a project in the country brick oven, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will talk about the principle of operation, features and scheme of laying the furnace structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is properly beaten. Today, there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far home heating technologies have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood has burned out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• combustion chamber, which is already purchased in ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pan where the ashes are collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can also be attributed to the same type of design. It is used not only in decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.

The most popular type of oven is the one-brick construction. This allows you to heat the walls up to 60 0 C. According to this scheme, the famous Dutch ovens are laid out.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and full-bodied, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

For lining such a furnace, tiled tiles are usually used, decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but this option will not work for a beginner, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the hewing of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly under 60 0.

Round stoves also look beautiful and unusual, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in the stove business V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo. The furnace works on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered sheet metal. Such a stove is able to heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and cook a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

Incidentally, ovens drying chambers first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen had to dry their clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, a dryer for firewood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

The device of the furnace for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for summer cottages are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of oven design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to long time keep the temperature. Folding such an oven is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a novice can handle a small stove for heating a small cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the rules of masonry.

In the first place in terms of popularity of heating and cooking stoves is a Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface, a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a dual function: serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of different masonry schemes for a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, so each design is called by the name of its creator: Buslaev's stove, Kuznetsov's, etc. But the principle of work in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only hob with an oven, but also a spacious couch.

This oven is already not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, so that the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Due to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from the bottom up. For kindling, any solid fuel, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for laying the Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by baby V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its masonry, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This oven option will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or cottages in one room.

In this article, we suggest that you study the rules and highlights of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry

Step 1. Choose a brick and prepare tools

Which brick for laying a small country stove to choose? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of a firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). Do not save on materials, further depend on this operational properties, safety and efficiency of the oven.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the complete attenuation of firewood, such a stove is able to give off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which creates aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire oven from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing a brick for the oven, pay attention to the color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it does not crack, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can break into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The brand of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1 cm 3.

Do not take silicate and hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to endure. high temperature- they can handle it. silicate brick does not conduct heat well and in a room with such a stove it will not be very comfortable.

For masonry mortar, you will need sand, red oven clay and water. It directly depends on its quality and consistency. appearance and oven durability. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. In a frozen form, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not quickly leave.

Also, for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually, various impurities are present in its composition, which add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

The consistency of such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, more dry mix must be added. If it turned out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
• Chamotte brick - 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards to create formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
• Grate.
• Metal plate for one burner (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan door (blew).
• Cast iron firebox door.
• Chimney valve.
• Chimney flue.
• Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools you will need to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Owl shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Goniometer.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction slope.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which was on outdoors at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can master in "1 call". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. We prepare a brick for laying the furnace

Before proceeding with the laying of the furnace, it is necessary to lay out the entire brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, squeezing in the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see what parts of the bricks you will need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it is easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick? Before “beating off” the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick - draw 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 bricks, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the furnace

This is very milestone in laying the furnace, which is advisable to produce even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of houses already in the process of operating the cottage. In this case, determine the place from where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all cold air Blowing from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space, without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the furnace depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall must be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through the beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• The fireplace is best located near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install the stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no opposite corner Entrance door from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Building the foundation

For the construction of a brick oven, it is necessary to make a separate foundation. If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you have decided to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to carry out a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight that will create great pressure to the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape and design of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out the entire brick "dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the draft stage, you will be able to see difficult moments that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb moisture. So they will not pull water from the masonry mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and simple maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of firewood.

We block the door of the blower with a brick.

Installing the furnace door

Install furnace door, after wrapping it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make of fireclay bricks.

• From row 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, the two bricks that overlap the grate should be cut at a 45 degree angle.

• 10 row - close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. We are preparing a place for the installation of the hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately put the slab on a dry slab and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you to lay the brick on the mortar later and not make a mistake with the correct recesses under the slab.

We lay the asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Chimney outlet through the roof

This is a responsible step, which should ensure the complete safety of the operation of the furnace.

Be guided by the norms of SNIP when removing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the place where the pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to perform insulation thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection from blowing cold air and provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wired, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is carried out using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to make using steel sandwich pipes. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than bricks and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of space heating and the presence of traction directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney - a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

From above we put on a metal cap, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7 Furnace lining

There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer residence.

As decorative material clinker tiles, tile tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Kindling the furnace

After the complete lining of the furnace, it is necessary to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test kindling of the stove. No need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Premature Kindling crude oven may cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the wood, lay small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed maximum temperature at 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

• Do not use trash for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when kindling.
• Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately give a strong heat.
• Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For the convenience of using a country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to put together a beautiful and solid country stove.

Video: Laying a dry brick oven

Below we present detailed wizard class on laying a brick oven for a summer residence.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

How to make a brick oven with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step-by-step descriptions, useful tips.

Classification by intended use

1. Heating. Such furnaces are used only for space heating as the only or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
2. Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used both for heating the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on the design

Direct-flow.

The principle of operation of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the blower, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Cons of once-through furnaces:

• Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

• Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which holds heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Channel.

This type of furnace is an advanced direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms up the room. When installing channel furnaces, one should take into account the linear dependence of the coefficient useful action on the length and number of channels.

Bell-type.

Such stoves are used to retain heat in the room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. Cooling down, the air currents become heavier and fall down. And, since the cold air is no longer needed, it exits through the hood.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

• They provide uniform heating of the room due to their design.
• Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification according to material

brick

Pros:

• Autonomy. That is, once "refueling" the oven, you can not worry about it for a long time.
• Heat retention. brick structures do not conduct heat well, so it stays in them for a long time.

Minuses:

• They warm up for a long time.

Cast iron

Pros:

• Easy to install, no foundation required.
• Not fire hazardous.
• Compact.
• Heat up quickly.
• Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
• No additional cladding required.
• There are automatic cast iron stoves which independently regulate the temperature.
• High efficiency.
• Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
• Low price.

Minuses:

• They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Consider preparation:

• Foundation. If the furnace is calculated large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, then this is not necessary.
• Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
• Chimney. In no case should the chimney be adjacent to the beams on the ceiling. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
• Pipe. The protrusion of the pipe must necessarily be half a meter above the roof, but no further than one and a half.
• Furnace location. The place should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

• It is better to position the stove so that it heats as many rooms as possible. For example, if the house has several neighboring rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them so that it heats everything.
• If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not back to back.

Tools and materials

Materials:

• Clay (for making masonry mortar).
• Sand.
• Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
• Pipe.
• Gravel.
• Tree.
• Cement.
• Ruberoid.
• Grate grate.
• Angle steel.
• Roofing steel.
• Wire.
• Nails.
• Steam valve.
• Oven.
• Doors (for the cooking chamber, blower, furnace).
• Cast iron tiles.

Tools:

• Furnace hammer.
• Ruler.
• Master OK.
• Pick.
• Square.
• Plumb.
• Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

• Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
• It keeps heat for a very long time, in some cases - two days.
• The firebox surrounds the fire from all sides and reduces the fire hazard level of the structure.

Minuses:

• Big size.
• Weighs a lot.
• Long warm up.
• After the break, a daily heating is required.
• Has the most complex structure of all possible types ovens.

The Russian stove is suitable as a permanent source of heat, it will completely replace and even surpass the stove, it can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation should be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

• simple masonry
• It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
• Heats up quickly.
• Weighs relatively little.
• Allows cooking.
• It does not need to be heated regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

• Cools down quickly.
• Low efficiency.

It turns out that the “Dutch” stove is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and occasional use.

Plain rectangular.

Pros:

• Doesn't take up much space.
• Simple construction.
• Low prices for material and fuel.

Minuses:

• Average efficiency.
• Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A conventional rectangular oven is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The oven is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

• Allows cooking.
• High efficiency.
• Quick warm up.
• Saves fuel.
• Relatively small size.
• Exist modern options with oven hob, a place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

• A booster is required.
• It has a difficult masonry for a beginner.

The Swede stove is suitable as the main source of heat in the room, can completely replace the stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

• Very low fire hazard.
• Aesthetic.
• High efficiency.
• Heat the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for decorating a house and for targeted use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's draw the drawings first. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the composition of the furnace.

• Foundation.
• Frame.
• Chimney.

The furnace consists of the following levels:

1. Foundation
2. Butovaya masonry.
3. Bookmark depth.
4. Waterproofing.
5. Furnace array.

Array Composition:

• Six.
• Undercoat.
• Underbay.
• Dushnik.
• Cover.
• Gate valve.
• Half door.

Pipe Composition:

• Overlap.
• Cutting.
• Insulation.
• Otter.
• head.
• Metal cap.
• Pipe stand.
• A metal sheet.
• Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed scheme for laying a brick oven.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's consider how to implement it using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

1. Designed for foundation waterproofing. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. Use during laying cement-sand mortar.
2. The second row is the basis for the walls of the care zone.
3. The third row is the walls of the guardianship (3/4 brick).
4. The fourth row is a support support.
5. The fifth row is located at the corners in order to create an arch support. Also use this row for laying out the oven.
6. The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary vault of guardianship.
7. A row for the arch begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The central brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be laid as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
8. The walls of the mantle are made of bricks from this row.
9. The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
10. The final row for guardianship. Between the bricks fill the gaps with sand, for the sake of insulation.
11. Strengthening the overlap of the guardianship with the addition of beveled bricks.
12. The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shet's masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
13. The bricks of this row will become the hearth and the cooking chamber. Additional installation of the mouth arc.
14. The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
15. The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
16. The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
17. Fold up the supports for the arch of the cooking chamber.
18. It is made up of refractory bricks with a vault.
19. Six walls.
20. Six walls. Fill gaps with sand.
21. Masonry furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
22. Cover end. Installing a showerhead.
23. Channels of the samovar and overtubes.
24. The same channels.
25. Additional channel for the view.
26. The same channels.
27. Half door installation.
28. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
29. Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
30. Connection of a pipe and a ventilator.
31. Valve installation.
32. Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a stove with your own hands: a description of the process.

1. Lay the foundation of.
2. Lay the first row (along the cord).
3. Lay the next rows with a level.
4. Control the corners with body kits.
5. From rows 1 to 11, use a cement-sand mortar, then a clay-sand mortar.
6. The output of the pipe is carried out at the end of all work.

How to build a do-it-yourself brick oven video:

• Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
• Choose a drawing that suits you.
• Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is traditional Russian).
• When transporting refractory bricks, be careful as they are very fragile.
• The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the places that need to be thoroughly heated.
• Do not forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

The laying of any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!