Rhododendrons are different - heat-loving and frost-resistant, tall and short, natural or bred by breeders, evergreen and deciduous. All of them, without exception, are a wonderful decoration for your garden. But some of the rhododendrons in the fall need to be more carefully prepared for the cold.
Features rhododendron shelters for the winter and this is what our article today will focus on.
Preparing rhododendrons for winter
Speaking with all responsibility - preparing rhododendrons for winter should not begin in the fall. When planting this plant, you need to remember that rhododendrons love, moreover, they are light, and in no case clayey. Rhododendrons do not like too much sun - the plant can burn. Following the basic rules of caring for rhododendrons will give you not only lush flowers, but also healthy plants. And only a healthy rhododendron can survive the winter well - this is the law of nature.
Starting from the end of summer, stop feeding the bushes with nitrogen (young shoots are not needed now) and switch to - this will allow late growth to ripen. You can also add colloidal sulfur - it will slow down the growth of fungi and acidify the soil. Like any plant, rhododendron should be treated with any available one for the winter.
Rhododendrons in autumn- especially if the autumn is dry - they also need moisture. These plants should be watered until the soil completely freezes.
Rhododendron shelter
In many ways, the shelter of rhododendrons will depend on the variety and, mainly, on whether your rhododendron is deciduous or evergreen.
Sheltering deciduous rhododendrons for the winter
So, deciduous varieties of rhododendrons You don't have to cover it. These are such popular varieties as Canadian, Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Ledebur, Daurian. Deciduous rhododendrons for the winter you should simply cover the area of the root collar with acidic peat, pine needles, leaves or another for 10-15 cm. But if your rhododendron is no more than three years old, to be on the safe side, cover it completely, as described below.
Sheltering evergreen rhododendrons for the winter
Shelter of evergreen rhododendrons can also be different. Even the most winter-hardy representatives of evergreen rhododendrons (Katevbinsky, Caucasian) need shelter. It's not even a matter of freezing, but of drying out - the soil freezes and does not provide moisture to the roots, and the green leaves continue to evaporate moisture. Therefore, it is important to ensure protection rhododendrons for the winter from wind and sun. In the case of frost-resistant varieties, it is enough to build “houses” from sticks, boards, or simply cover the rhododendron with a box for the winter. The structure should be wrapped on top non-woven material. No shelter rhododendron for the winter can only be left if it grows in the shade.
But with varieties of rhododendrons that love warmth, you will have to tinker. These are the majority of beautifully flowering hybrids that were brought to us from warmer European countries. Therefore, before purchasing, do not be lazy to ask the seller how this variety is accustomed to our winters.
As in the previous case, even before frost, we generously pour a “blanket” around the bush - pine needles, sour peat, etc. The next stage in preparing the rhododendron for the winter, when the first light frosts arrive, will be the construction of the frame. It is the frame - rhododendron in winter Under no circumstances should they be tightly wrapped in any material, since the weight of the snow may cause the succulent buds of these plants to break. The materials you choose are draped over the frame, not the plant itself.
If the rhododendron is small - either because of the variety or because of its age - it will be possible to get by with just boards as a support, on which 2-3 layers of lutrasil will be wound - maybe a ball, maybe a cocoon. The main thing is that the shelter does not touch the plant, and there is free space under the cover.
If the rhododendron is large, you will have to use iron arches. It is better to install the arcs in advance, before the ground freezes. Experienced flower growers It is advised to maintain an interval between arcs of about 40 centimeters, and to deviate from the width of the crown of the bush by 15-25 cm.
Arcs for rhododendrons in autumn should stand naked until frost sets in at 8-10 degrees - that is, not earlier than in November, or even December. Previously, covering flowers was not only undesirable - but under no circumstances should it be! The green leaves of these plants evaporate moisture until the roots take this moisture from the ground - that is, until the ground freezes. An excess of condensation in the house will rot your beautiful rhododendrons before winter arrives.
With the arrival of light frosts, we put several layers of lutrasil on the arcs and cover the structure with film (so that water does not penetrate). But we fix only one end of the covering materials - let the plant breathe through the unfixed edge of the cover until real frosts arrive.
Only when the final frost sets in along the edges of the lutrasil and film do we lay bricks, soil or anything to fix them and check shelter for rhododendron for the winter for the absence of cracks.
Of course, it is not necessary to use staples and lutrasil - the main thing is that the principle of covering rhododendrons for the winter is preserved. Work wisely, use available tools, take into account the climatic characteristics of the region and variety.
As you can see, rhododendron shelters for the winter quite “cool” - unlike, for example, . But this does not mean that you should neglect shelter. Work a little in the fall - and in the summer the bush will delight you with luxurious flowers!
Now you can watch a video about sheltering rhododendrons for the winter. Enjoy watching!
Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmAgro. Agro-industrial Bulletin"
Rhododendrons – beautiful flowering shrubs in need of mandatory winter shelter. Its decorative value in the next season depends on how successfully the plant overwinters.
Do all types of rhododendrons need shelter?
In the conditions of central Russia, deciduous varieties winter best. For example, Daurian, yellow, Canadian, Japanese, Ledebura and Schlippenbach do not need special protection. But in order to prevent freezing, it is recommended to cover the root collar area. Here you can use peat or dry leaves.
Evergreen varieties do not differ in winter hardiness, so they require mandatory shelter.
Choosing an insulation option
The technique will depend not only on the variety, but also on the age of the bush. Rhododendrons that are not yet one year old can be covered with a regular cardboard box. It is first necessary to thoroughly mulch the root area. You need to make a small hole in the side of the box. It is necessary for air circulation.
To protect the paper from getting wet, you can cover it on top:
· film;
· spruce branches, building a hut from it.
Straw and hay are not suitable because they attract hibernating rodents.
Advice! Early shelter can lead to damping off of the plant and its death. Therefore, insulation of rhododendrons should be done after a stable subzero temperature has been established - below -9 degrees.
Another common method is construction of a small greenhouse. Arcs are installed above the bush, onto which it is then thrown. It is best to start building the frame in the fall, and close the plant with the onset of cold weather.
At least two layers of the selected covering material must be laid on the frame. This could be lutrasil, agrotex and others. You can just use spruce branches.
The size and height of the frame depend on the parameters of the shrub. It is necessary to ensure that there is a distance of 15 cm between the branches of the plant and the thrown material. This is quite enough so that the fabric sagging under the weight of snow does not lie on the branches and does not cause damage to them.
In addition, in places where foliage and frozen tissue come into contact, there is a high risk of rhododendron freezing.
It is recommended to lay a layer of film on top of the covering material. It will protect the structure from getting wet and gusts of wind. The material should not only completely cover the frame, but also fall to the ground. To prevent the fabric from being blown away by the wind, its edges must be pressed with bricks or any heavy objects.
On one side of the greenhouse you need to leave a vent (do not close it tightly), then air will circulate around the plant. Complete isolation of rhododendron is provided only with the arrival of permanent frosts.
Low-growing plants can simply be covered with leaves or snow, forming a low snowdrift over the plant.
When to close and open plants?
There is no need to rush here. Shrubs tolerate light frosts quite well (up to -10 degrees).
If you insulate the plant too early, the root collar may begin to warm up and it will die. You should not focus on the first snow: sometimes small snowdrifts can cover the ground already in October, but there are no frosts as such. The snow just needs to be shoveled away.
The optimal period for sheltering rhododendron is the second ten days of November.
In the spring, there is also no need to rush to remove the cover. March is too much early date, although the sun is already warming well. But do not forget that the ground is still frozen and the root system of the plant is still “sleeping”: they will not be able to absorb moisture from the soil.
If you open the bushes at this time, the tender leaves will die in the sun, since they will not be able to receive the necessary moisture.
Rhododendrons should be opened after complete thawing and partial warming of the soil. It is best to choose a cloudy day.
Rhododendrons are magnificent ornamental plants, decorating the garden with abundant flowering in spring and early summer. Proper planting and care provide rhododendrons with beauty and long life.
Breeders have created many beautifully flowering rhododendron hybrids and varieties, but, unfortunately, not all of them are winter-hardy enough. When planning to buy rhododendrons, first find out about the acclimatization and frost resistance of these seedlings.
In the Moscow region, cold-resistant rhododendrons winter well. To avoid troubles during wintering due to sharply changing weather and possible severe winter cold, bushes of less winter-hardy rhododendrons should be covered in the fall, when the first stable frosts occur.
In the Moscow region, rhododendrons are usually covered in November.
Until the temperature drops to -9...-10 degrees below zero and stabilizes, you should not place garden plants to winter shelters. Try not to “wrap up” plants that are not frost-resistant enough in winter, especially with dense, caking materials (such as foliage, dense spruce branches).
Built for plants winter shelter should be light, but reliable enough.
In the fall, I prepare rhododendrons for wintering in several stages.
First, I insulate the bushes from below with peat for the winter, mulching the rhododendron plantings in the root zone with it.
As soon as light frosts begin, I build an arc frame to further cover the rhododendrons. While the garden soil is not yet frozen, I install high arcs made of strong wire near the rhododendron bushes. For this purpose, you can use 6-8 mm wire rod and 10 mm insulated cable wire.
The size of the installed arcs depends on the size of the plants being covered and is calculated so that the rhododendron branches do not touch the shelter, and an air gap is formed between the branches and the shelter. The arches should be located 15-20 cm higher and wider than the rhododendron bushes. The interval between adjacent arches is about 35-40 cm.
By constructing a winter shelter for rhododendrons in this way, above the bed with plants I get a wide and long wire frame 1.2-1.3 m high.
When late autumn Significant cold weather sets in, and it’s time to start covering the crowns of rhododendrons. I do this using lutrasil and film, stretching them over the constructed arcs. To cover rhododendron bushes, I use lutrasil in two or three layers (the number of layers depends on the brand of lutrasil used, i.e. on its thickness and density) and a durable, intact film.
You cannot place the shelter directly on the plant itself: when snow falls on the shelter without a frame, the flower buds will be crushed under its weight. In such cramped conditions, the buds will break, and then next year there will be no magnificent flowers on the rhododendron bushes.
In November, when the cold in our area begins to be about -10 degrees, I stretch thin lutrasil in several layers onto the arcs above the rhododendrons. And since lutrasil allows moisture to pass through, I then cover it with film.
After this, I fix the laid covering of covering material and film on top of the frame with the same arcs, firmly securing the shelter in the ground along the length of the frame. I sprinkle the bottom of the lutrasil and the film with a little soil so that the wind does not blow inside the shelter and additionally ensures the reliability of its fastening.
I immediately close one end of the shelter tightly and reinforce it with two or three bricks or a heavy metal corner.
I leave the second end of the shelter open for now, because... the plants have not yet fallen asleep, and in November there will still be above-zero temperatures.
If all the leaves of deciduous rhododendrons have not fallen off, this indicates that the plants are still awake - so they still need normal gas exchange. Gradually, deciduous rhododendrons prepare for the coming winter and shed the remains of their leaves, falling asleep deeply.
When sudden temperature changes from minus to plus stop and stable cold temperatures set in, the second end of the arc shelter can be closed. I carefully combine the ends of the lutrasil and the film at the end, tuck them in to avoid the formation of cracks, press the lower part to the ground and securely fasten it.
With such a frame shelter, non-frost-resistant plants are not afraid of cold winters; under it, rhododendron bushes are protected from breaking branches by snow.
All types of azaleas that can survive the winter in harsh Russian conditions can be made with:
- deciduous;
- evergreen;
- semi-evergreen;
- hybrid.
All three groups are quite numerous, so each of them is worth considering separately.
Deciduous
Winter-hardy deciduous species include:
Rhododendron Kamchatka- a dwarf shrub with a maximum height of 20 to 30 cm and a width of 30 to 50 cm. It blooms all summer with dark pink or raspberry-purple flowers with a diameter of 2.5 to 5 cm. Dark specks are also noticeable on the petals. Withstands temperature drops down to – 30 degrees. It grows slowly.
Azalea pontica (or Rhododendron yellow)- tall branched shrub. IN good conditions grows very quickly up to 2 meters in height and width. It blooms in late spring or early summer at the same time as (or before) the leaves bloom. Small yellow or orange flowers collected in lush inflorescences and have a strong and pleasant aroma. Feels good in winter at temperatures down to – 30 degrees. Most popular hybrid varieties azaleas were bred by breeders from this species. Among them: “Cecile”, “Satomi”, “Fireworks”, “Klondike” and many others.
Evergreens
Winter-hardy evergreen species include:
Rhododendron katevbinsky. Was one of the first representatives of its genus brought to Europe from North America. Because this variety is incredibly cold-hardy, it has been widely used to develop varieties that are resistant to cold conditions. Almost all old varieties of winter-hardy rhododendrons trace their ancestry back to the Katevbinsky one. Katevbinsky varieties:
- “Grandiflorum” is the most famous variety of Katevba origin. At the age of ten, the height of the bush is from 2 to 3 m. The color of the flowers is lavender. Yellow-red markings are noticeable on the petals. There is no aroma. The permissible temperature drop ranges from -26 to -32 degrees.
- "Bourzalt" grows up to 3 m in height and 3.2 m in width. Lilac flowers 7 cm in diameter have reddish or brown spots. They have no aroma. The lowest temperature for the variety is from -29 to -32 degrees.
- "Album" is the tallest. At the age of ten, the shrub can grow up to 3.2 m in height. Quite large (6 cm in diameter) flowers are colored White color with green or brown markings, but have no scent. Withstands frosts down to – 32 degrees.
Rhododendron yakushimanensis. This plant is compact. The maximum height is 1 m and width is 1.5 m. It blooms profusely from May to June. The buds are pink, and the opened flowers are white. Quite large - up to 6 cm in diameter. Loves soils rich in organic matter. It is not as stable as previous types, but nevertheless can withstand frosts from -22 to -26 degrees, depending on the specific variety. It is advisable to cover young plants for the winter. The species includes many varieties: “Astrid”, “Arabella”, “Fantastica”, “Edelweiss”, “Kohiro Wada” and many others.
Rhodendron carolina. This shrub is slightly taller than the previous one. Height – up to 1.5 m. It also grows slowly – up to 5 cm per year. Flowering begins in May-June and lasts about 3 weeks. They love light, slightly acidic soils. Withstands frosts down to –30 degrees.
Semi-evergreen
These species partially shed their leaves.
Dahurian rhododendron. Tall (up to 2 m) and spreading (up to 1 m) shrub. Begins to bloom in mid to late spring before foliage emerges. Very winter hardy. It can withstand temperatures down to -30 degrees, but is very afraid of spring frosts. Flowers are medium-sized (diameter up to 4 cm) red-pink.
How to prepare for winter?
Only deciduous azaleas need to be prepared for winter frosts. Other species winter well even without snow cover at temperatures down to -25 degrees. The exception is young bushes, which, in the absence of snow, will require artificial shelter.
All species, without exception, are afraid of drafts. Therefore, they need to be placed in places sheltered from the wind.
Deciduous azaleas begin to prepare for winter with the onset of autumn frosts. The branches are bent to the ground, but so that the buds do not touch it. This is done so that the plant is completely under the snow as quickly as possible. Artificial shelters should not be removed until April, as bright sunlight A plant with frozen roots is not at all welcome. However, when there is significant warming, excess snow should be removed as it melts and creates too much soil moisture.
As an artificial shelter for rhododendron for the winter, metal mesh with coniferous spruce branches and oak leaves is used.
Watering any azaleas during wintering is strictly prohibited. And from the beginning of autumn, if flowering has ended, watering is gradually reduced.
Deciduous azaleas that are not very frost-resistant are also pruned. You need to cut off wilted shoots and unopened buds.
Most rhododendron varieties tolerate wintering well. In order for the plant to grow well and bloom profusely next year, you just need to know exactly what variety and species it belongs to.
Photo
See more photos of winter-hardy azaleas below: 
Rhododendrons are perennial plants, belonging to the Vereskov family. They have a large number of species and can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs and trees. Their size and shape also vary significantly. Some varieties are less than half a meter high, while others grow up to four meters. There are also creeping forms of the plant. Translated from Latin, the name of the flower sounds like “ pink tree" Apparently, it was given to him for the resemblance of the buds to roses.
Pretty rhododendrons whimsical plants. Therefore, in addition to creating and proper care during the growing season, they need to be provided the right conditions wintering. Otherwise, they may freeze completely or partially, which will lead to the development various diseases and lack of flowering. Therefore, many gardeners are interested in the question: is it necessary to cover rhododendrons for the winter.
How to prepare rhododendron for winter
Leaving rhododendron over the winter without shelter is possible only in the southern regions, where there is practically no frost. In other areas, in particular in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region, in middle lane, in the Urals and Siberia, it is necessary to insulate these plants before wintering, especially the beautifully flowering hybrid varieties. To do this, you need to know how to properly cover a rhododendron for the winter.
Before sending the plant for the winter, you need to carry out appropriate preparation that will help it safely survive the winter cold.
Trimming
Before covering the plant, it must be trimmed
Before covering the plant for the winter, you need to correct pruning. This will help him avoid the development of various diseases during wintering and early spring period. This procedure will also contribute to the formation of a lush and beautiful crown next season.
First of all, the broken and dried branches are completely removed. The remaining stems are cut to one third. The cut areas should be treated with crushed activated carbon to prevent the development of infectious diseases. For bushes that are too old, drastic pruning is carried out, leaving the shoots no more than 40 centimeters high from the soil. You also need to remove all remaining inflorescences so that they do not rot and cause infections.
Watering and fertilizing
In order for the plant to gain strength after flowering and safely survive the winter, it is necessary to water abundantly until the end of autumn, pouring at least 20 liters of soft, settled water under each adult bush. This must be done, since plants continue to evaporate moisture during the winter. Therefore, they need to provide the necessary supply before wintering. If the autumn turns out to be too rainy, then you need to water the rhododendrons as needed.
Also needed in the middle autumn period fertilize rhododendrons with fertilizers containing large amounts of potassium, iron and sulfur. They should not contain nitrogen, as it will cause the growth of new shoots that will die in the winter. This will cause great harm condition of plants.
Since rhododendrons have a superficial root system, after tilling the soil, you need to mulch the soil well with peat, sawdust or dry leaves in a layer of fifteen to thirty centimeters, depending on the size of the plant. You can put spruce branches on top of it. This will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil and also protect the roots from freezing.
In autumn, the soil at the base of the plant needs to be mulched
In parallel with this, a small ditch should be installed, through which melt water will drain in the spring. If it stagnates, the root system of the rhododendron, weakened after winter, may rot, which will cause the death of the plant.
How to properly cover rhododendrons
Newbies to gardening who live in regions with harsh winters, I am often interested in the question of at what temperature to cover rhododendrons? This is done after the first frost occurs and a stable temperature of at least ten degrees below zero has been established. Covering the bushes in warmer times can result in rotting of the root collar, as condensation will form inside.
Shelter of frost-resistant varieties
Covering rhododendron with non-woven material
TO frost-resistant varieties These include, as a rule, deciduous rhododendrons (Japanese, Kamchatka, Canadian, Daurian and others). Many of them can easily tolerate frosts down to 35 degrees. When sending them for the winter, it is enough to trim them, treat them and mulch them, after which you need to wrap them with burlap and tie them with a rope to secure it. The advantage of such a shelter is that it is breathable.
Young plants that are short in height can simply be covered with the onset of frost. cardboard box suitable size. First you need to make a small hole in it for air access. You can also simply carefully cover them with spruce branches. After a sufficient amount of snow has fallen, you can additionally fill the constructed shelter with it.
Shelter of non-frost-resistant varieties
Unlike deciduous ones, evergreen plant varieties (Caucasian, Pontic, Katevbinsky and others) are frost-resistant and quite capricious. They are very picky both in terms of care and in wintering, so you need to know how to cover a rhododendron for the winter. It must be carefully insulated even in regions with relatively warm winters. If this is not done, then due to frozen buds the plant may not bloom next season.
Before covering the rhododendron, after preparing for wintering, you need to bend the branches of tall specimens to the soil and secure them. After this, you need to place spruce branches between them, which will serve additional insulation. Low-growing plants are not bent down; their stems are collected in a bunch and tied with a rope. This is done to prevent damage to the kidneys. After this, the rhododendrons are covered with spruce branches or dry leaves and frames for shelters are installed. There are several ways to build reliable protection for rhododendrons, frames for insulating them must be installed in advance in not yet frozen soil:
A frame made of spruce branches is one of the ways to cover a rhododendron
- Hut. Pegs are installed around the plant in the form of a hut.
- Arcs. They are installed above a bent or bunched bush with an interval of about 35 centimeters;
- Stool. Four thick slats of wood or metal are installed around the rhododendron, perpendicular to the soil in the form of stool legs. After the shelter is made, boards, plywood or some other material are laid on the slats.
The frames must be installed so that there is a distance of about 30 centimeters between them and the plant. This will provide the plant comfortable conditions wintering. If this is not done, then if the shelter bends under the weight of snow, it may be damaged.
With the onset of frost, the prepared frames are wrapped in covering material and carefully tied with rope along the entire height. At the bottom of the shelter you need to leave a supply of material of about thirty centimeters. They put it on top plastic film and fasten it with a stapler. This is done so that the shelter does not get wet when the snow melts.
Covering rhododendrons with covering material
It is recommended to lay metal or plastic pipe small diameter, so that one end goes out. This will provide air access to the plant. After this, you need to sprinkle the shelter from below with soil and lay bricks or some other heavy objects on top of it. This will strengthen the shelter and prevent the wind from damaging it.
When to remove cover
Do not remove the cover from rhododendrons as soon as the snow melts. This should be done only after the soil has completely warmed up and there is no threat of spring frosts. Accustom the plant to aggressive spring sun it is necessary gradually, removing the cover in the morning or evening for several hours. If the structure is removed without preparation, the bushes, weakened over the winter, may get sunburn on the stems and young leaves. When the insulation is completely removed, you need to free the rhododendron from the fortifications and ropes with which it was secured, as well as clear the spruce branches and old mulch and loosen the soil around the plant.
After this, it is necessary to conduct a preventive examination of the rhododendron. It is better to do this on a warm but cloudy day. If the branches have drooped greatly, and the foliage of evergreen specimens has curled, then you need to water immediately. In the future, you need to spray the plant daily to quickly restore the elasticity of the stems and leaves. You also need to check the flower for diseases and pests. If they are present, you need to immediately carry out appropriate treatment to prevent them further dissemination. Also at this time you need to fertilize the rhododendron with fertilizers containing large amounts of nitrogen. This will stimulate the growth of green mass.
Experienced gardeners give several useful tips for preparing rhododendrons for winter:
Preparing rhododendron for wintering: installing frames for subsequent shelter
- Often due to warm and rainy weather, excess nitrogen fertilizers or for some other reason, rhododendrons begin to actively grow in the fall, forming new shoots that do not have time to adapt to winter. To prevent their growth and cause rapid lignification, it is necessary to spray the plants with potassium sulfate or monophosphate. They should be diluted at the rate of 10 grams of the drug per 1 liter of water. This will also stimulate the formation of flower buds; with proper wintering, this will ensure abundant flowering next season.
- To cover rhododendron for the winter, it is best to use spunbond, agrotex or lutrasil.
- In mid-autumn, it is recommended to spray plants with preparations that increase immunity, for example.
- You should not mulch the base of the trunk; it is better to fill it with coarse sand to avoid rotting and death of the bush.
Although rhododendrons are quite finicky plants, their popularity among gardeners is growing every year. This is due to the abundant and very beautiful flowering, as well as the lush crown, which can become worthy decoration any garden plot. Of course, these plants require increased attention and physical effort for their care, including preparation for winter. Proper wintering is a guarantee that the shoots and flower buds will be preserved, and the rhododendron will delight with its luxurious branches and magnificent buds throughout the next season.
You can learn about the intricacies of covering rhododendrons for the winter in the proposed video material. Enjoy watching!
