Spring is the most important and hot time for fertilizing the soil. This period is the basic period for obtaining a high and high-quality harvest in the fall. An abundance of fruit-bearing crops cannot be ensured without proper plant nutrition. Any soil, even the most fertile, is depleted over time, which directly affects the condition of the plants. Applying fertilizers in the spring means creating the maximum favorable conditions for plant nutrition for the entire growing season. Active growth and development of plant crops is ensured by different types of fertilizers. How to balance spring feeding, which fertilizer to choose and how to optimally combine it with other types of agrochemicals will be described in detail in the article.
The importance of spring fertilizing with fertilizers
In spring, plants begin their active growing season. The plant awakens after a deep winter dormancy, when metabolic processes and active growth were inhibited. During this difficult period of recuperation, help is needed in the form of additional feeding of the plant body. It is spring fertilizer that starts the process of active interaction between the plant and soil microorganisms. This symbiosis allows for effective growth and development of plants.
The main thing is to choose the right spring fertilizers that the plant urgently needs. Fertilizers applied to the soil in the spring enrich it with useful nutrients. Receiving complete and balanced nutrition, the plant will certainly delight you with an abundance of high-quality harvest.
In spring, both organic and mineral fertilizers can be added to the soil. Gardeners independently choose a certain type of fertilizing, taking into account the type of soil, the characteristics of growing a particular crop and other factors. Most often, a competent combination is practiced different types fertilizers
Timing of fertilizer application in spring
- Agrochemical specialists determine spring period optimal time for additional feeding. Organic fertilizers are usually prepared in advance; mineral - carefully calculate the required dosage. The procedure for fertilizing the land begins in early spring, after the snow has completely melted. It is not advisable to distribute fertilizers on top of the snow cover, since during melting most of the fertilizer can be “washed away” from the area.
- The most optimal time to apply fertilizers to the soil is before spring plowing. Apply those types of fertilizers that are especially necessary for plants “at the start.”
- Feeding fruit trees, you don’t have to wait for the tree trunk soil to completely thaw. But it is recommended to fertilize vegetable and flower crops before planting.
- Experienced gardeners plan in advance to apply the necessary fertilizers in the spring so that all plants receive important microelements in quantities optimal for their development.
- At the same time, in no case should you use the axiom: “the more, the better.” An excess of organic and mineral substances negatively affects the condition of grown crops. Therefore, it is important to know the main features of using all types of fertilizers.
Types of fertilizers.Organic fertilizers in spring
Group organic fertilizers represented by substances of natural origin. These include: manure, bird droppings, compost, sawdust, straw, peat, ash, etc. Organics are cheap, accessible and very effective raw materials for feeding plants. By participating in additional loosening of the soil, organic components enrich it with essential microelements and nutrients. The content of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, etc. provides balanced nutrition for plants. They are prepared in advance - in the fall, and organic fertilizers are used in early spring.
Manure
The constituent unit of manure is the excrement of farm animals. It has a characteristic smell and consistency. One of the most ancient types of fertilizers. Fresh manure is one of the valuable fertilizers, although it also has significant disadvantages. Applying fresh manure should be done with caution for most cultivated plants. It can inhibit the plant organism and even (if there is an excess) lead to its death. This is due to the presence of aggressive substances and urea in it. In addition, weed seeds, bacterial and fungal spores remain in it.
- It is better to use already rotted manure as a valuable fertilizer for plants and restore soil fertility. In this form everything harmful substances disappear. For proper storage manure provide a special place. Manure is constantly compacted during storage to remove excess air and create favorable conditions for the development of appropriate microflora. There are 4 stages of manure decomposition, the final stage of which is humus (after 1-2 years). In my own way appearance, it resembles a loose earth mass.
- In autumn you can apply manure at the 2-3rd stage of decomposition, in spring it is better in the form of humus. It is scattered around the site and dug up along with the soil. Sometimes they do without digging, evenly distributing the substrate over the surface of the earth and breaking up large particles. For example, lawn grass fertilize until the shoots emerge. If there is not enough manure to fertilize everything land plot, it is embedded directly into the holes with the plant.
- On average, the amount of fertilizer applied is determined at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 square meter of soil. Fruit trees and berry bushes They take this kind of feeding especially well.
- Slurry is a valuable nitrogen-potassium fertilizer. The low phosphorus content allows it to be combined with superphosphate (10-15 g per liter of liquid). Slurry is used as liquid fertilizer, diluting with water 1:5.
- The application of manure has a beneficial effect on the physical and mechanical properties of the soil, so it is indispensable for mulching the soil. Also, thanks to this organic component, plants better absorb mineral fertilizers. Thus, this type of organic fertilizer is a universal spring feeding.
Bird droppings
The chemical composition of bird droppings makes it one of the most valuable types of organic fertilizers. Chicken and pigeon droppings are considered especially valuable. In its pure form, bird droppings are practically not used. Its aqueous solution is used in a ratio of 1:2, which is infused for about 4 days. Then the resulting concentrated solution is again diluted with water, already 1:10.
This fertilizer is superior in nutritional quality to manure. And the speed of action of the constituent components is not inferior to mineral fertilizers. The disadvantage is that during storage it loses its valuable properties.
Compost
They prepare it with their own hands, making a special compost pit. To use fertilizer in the spring, you need to first fill it all summer with any biological mass (manure, peat, bird droppings, mown grass, tops, fallen leaves, food peelings of vegetables and fruits, weeds, etc.). All this content is under the influence high temperature, gradually decomposes and produces valuable organic nutrition. The resulting compost is the result of the vital activity of microorganisms and is rich in many useful microelements (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). It is used for all plant crops by direct spreading over the area, directly into holes or under digging.
There are varieties of composts, depending on the filling of the compost pit.
- Peat and manure.
Manure is stored with peat in a 1:1 ratio. It is better to cover the composter with something. During the formation of compost, nitrogen-containing substances are converted into a form accessible to plants. The composition can be improved by adding phosphate rock (25 kg per ton of compost). This fertilizer often used when growing strawberries, thus increasing the number of berry ovaries.
- Made.
The name of the compost corresponds to its components. Food scraps, peelings, tops, grass, leaves and other waste are placed and compacted in a special box (usually wooden). Throughout the summer, all this contents are periodically watered with slurry. Do not cover with anything to avoid the accumulation of excess nitrogen in the heap. For improvement quality composition compost substrate, add mineral fertilizers. As a rule, this is phosphorus (5 kg per 1 ton) or lime (10 kg per 1 ton).
- Vermicultured.
This highly nutritious type of compost is obtained using earthworms. Make a box with a good ventilation system and fill it with dietary fiber material for the worms. This is paper, dry grass, straw. Cover the top with a small amount of soil and water generously. Within a day you can “populate” the worms. From time to time, you need to add food waste, peelings, egg shells, tea leaves, etc. to the composter. Spring application of vermicultured compost involves the start of its preparation in February/March.
For proper compost maturation, it is recommended to alternate dry and wet layers. And if, at the same time, you sprinkle each layer with earth, the decomposition process will accelerate. Also make sure that the composter has a moist environment and if it dries out too much, water it with water.
Wood sawdust
As a rule, sawdust is used as mulch or for insulating crops. Wood itself is not a fertilizer. But when lying on it for a long time, a number of microorganisms appear that saturate the sawdust useful substances. Such rotted sawdust is added to compost, resulting in excellent organic fertilizer.
Green mixtures
Used as an independent fertilizer or as a raw material for making compost. The optimal combination for preparing green fertilizer: a mixture of legumes and grains. Plants are grown until the optimal development of green mass, after which they are mowed or completely embedded (with roots) in the soil. There, all parts of the plants rot, saturating it with nitrogen and organic matter. Under the influence of microorganisms, plant remains are transformed into the most fertile layer of soil - humus.
Peat
This organic fertilizer, of marsh origin, is used for many herbaceous and fruit plants. It is popular to use peat in the spring to lay a lawn. For this they remove upper layer soil, lay a layer of peat, sprinkle with earth and lightly compact. The very next day you can sow grass seeds. Such highly nutritious organic matter promotes active and uniform grass growth. Peat feeding is also useful for fruit trees older than 3 years.
Ash
Contains a large amount of potassium, as well as boron, phosphorus and manganese. Used to reduce soil acidity and as additional fertilizing. Ash is added to manure, litter and compost. This fertilizer is especially useful for tomatoes, potatoes and sweet peppers. The most valuable source of nutrients is ash after burning straw. Wood ash is also effective, and its composition will be richer from young branches than from old ones.
Disadvantages of organic fertilizers
- When fertilizing the soil with organic fertilizers in the spring, it is also worth remembering that there are certain restrictions on their use.
- Thus, if you do not follow the dosage when applying fresh manure or bird droppings, you can simply “burn” the treated crops.
- In addition, an excess of organic fertilizers (humus, manure) can provoke fungal infection of plants.
- Experts advise adding organic matter once every 2-3 years, providing the land with the necessary complex of nutrients.
- Complete spring feeding involves adding not only organic matter, but also minerals. If you use only organic fertilizers, the plants will not receive enough potassium and phosphorus, which will negatively affect the growth and yield of crops.
Types of fertilizers.Mineral fertilizers in spring
By using mineral fertilizers successfully correct soil characteristics: neutralize acidic soils and oxidize alkaline soils. They are also rich in inorganic nutrients necessary for feeding plants: potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus. In addition to micro- and macroelements, they contain substances that protect plants from fungal diseases. The use of mineral fertilizers in the spring will ensure high yields in the fall. It is convenient and easy to work with them: they are sold as ready-made concentrated mixtures with detailed instructions on the packaging. Mineral fertilizers are applied annually and are considered less labor-intensive to use than organic fertilizers.
Nitrogen fertilizers
They have a number of representatives: ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate and urea (urea). These fertilizers are not able to accumulate in the soil, so they need to be applied in small doses (250-300 g/m²), systematically. Nitrogen fertilizing is carried out only if the soil has not previously received organic matter. Such additives accelerate the vegetative growth of plants, stimulate the flowering process and guarantee high yields. Nitrogen fertilizers in the spring are recommended by experts without fail, since most soils need this element.
Potash fertilizers
Forms plant resistance to frost. Potassium-based preparations promote faster fruit ripening and active growth of the root system. The dosage is about 200 g/m² of soil.
Phosphorus supplements
They are especially important in the spring as powerful stimulators of plant growth and development. The most common phosphorus-containing fertilizers are superphosphate, phosphate rock, double superphosphate. The average application rate is considered to be 250 g/m² of soil.
Depending on the composition, mineral supplements can be single-component or complex. Complex fertilizers in spring – they are most effective, as they represent an enriched and balanced complex of nutrients and mineral salts.
When working with mineral fertilizers, it is important to strictly adhere to the instructions for their use and dosage. It is also necessary to take into account the types of fertilized soils and the characteristics of cultivated crops.
The main disadvantage of spring top dressing of the soil with mineral fertilizers is their possible washing out with groundwater during the rains.
Types of fertilizers in spring.Bacterial fertilizers
This type of fertilizer is a bacterial preparation that improves plant nutrition. They themselves do not contain nutrients, but when they are used, biochemical processes and root nutrition of plants are improved. Therefore, this type of fertilizer is considered as an additional means of increasing productivity. Most famous representatives of this type of fertilizer: rhizotorphin, nitragin, azotobacterin and phosphorobacterin.
As a rule, bacterial preparations are applied in the spring, along with seeds or planting material. Fertilizer is considered environmentally friendly and promising for agriculture. The shelf life of such dressings is limited, due to the presence of live bacteria in their composition.
Types of fertilizers around the world.Organomineral fertilizers
They are produced in granular form and represent a mixture of organic components with mineral compounds (OMU). This type of fertilizer is recognized as one of the best in terms of its efficiency in agriculture. The mineral salts included in its composition ensure the rapid absorption of nutrients, and the organic matter supplies the plant body with a number of nutrients. Such top dressing is not yet very popular in our country, as it is quite expensive and not always available in stores.
Conditions for applying fertilizers
In spring, fertilization plays a fundamental role for the seasonal development of plant organisms, while autumn is the period responsible for preparing plants for cold weather and wintering. It is important to know the main features and conditions for applying fertilizers.
Field work on fertilizing begins early, immediately after the snow melts. Granular types of fertilizers are applied as early as March, as they take a long time to dissolve. Liquid solutions of agrochemicals are used a little later - in April/May.
If fruit trees are fertilized, they are treated trunk circle, where the maximum roots are concentrated.
Fertilizers are applied different ways: for plowing, separately in a hole or beds, evenly scattered over the surface of the earth. To apply one or another type of fertilizing, the type of soil and what crop is fertilized matters.
Organic fertilizer - compost, can be used annually, while manure or litter - once every 2-3 years. Mineral complexes are used annually.
Thus, the choice of feeding in spring is individual in each individual case. This takes into account the type climate zone, characteristics of cultivated plants and soil conditions. Properly conducted spring agronomy will achieve the desired yield and enrich the soil with useful substances. And, on the contrary, improper and irrational use of fertilizing can significantly reduce soil fertility, worsen its structure and cause irreparable harm to growing plants. Therefore, before starting field work For fertilizing plants in the spring, it is important to carefully familiarize yourself with the types of fertilizers, their effect on specific crops, and only after that make a choice.
Video: Spring fertilization of garden plants
A good harvest depends not only on proper care and quality seed material. An important factor is fertile, loose soil. It is unlikely that you will be able to grow large, healthy fruits or vegetables on poor, loose soils.
Does the earth need help?
Not only a deficiency, but also an excess of nutrients has a deplorable effect on the harvest. Overfed soil is in some cases even worse than underfed soil. How to determine that the soil needs to be fertilized?
First, find out the type of soil that predominates in your dacha:
- on light sandy loams or sandstones, useful elements go deep very quickly. Here, potassium, sulfur, iodine, bromine, magnesium, and nitrogen are most often lacking. Such soil, in addition to targeted mineral fertilizer, must be diluted with heavier alumina, structured with siderites and compost;
- alkaline soils and salt marshes are characterized by a lack of zinc, copper, phosphorus, manganese, boron, iron and magnesium;
- acidic ones lack phosphorus, calcium, sulfur, molybdenum, magnesium. Nitrogen is poorly absorbed. Peat bogs need potassium, manganese, boron, and copper.
Salt marshes and sour lands require a lot of attention: most garden and garden plants prefers neutral soils. Just deposit necessary elements not enough into the soil. The reaction of acidic soils is brought to a neutral value by liming, structured with sand. Salt marshes - with peat or compost. Planting and embedding of siderites showed good results.
Secondly, make sure that the plants are not sick, namely starving.
Starvation is widespread and does not depend on the type of plant: it also affects fruit trees, And vegetable crops. Signs of diseases similar to starvation are selective and affect any one of the garden or vegetable crops.
Symptoms of fasting
There are a number of signs that indicate a lack of elements in the soil:
- Nitrogen (N). Deficiency makes plant leaves weak. They turn yellow and slow down. With severe depletion, old leaves die off rapidly.
- Potassium (K). With potassium deficiency, pale leaves turn brown, dry along the edge. Along the veins, the tissue dries out and wrinkles. Internodes are shortened. Shoots become thin.
- Phosphorus (P). There is little phosphorus in the soil; if new leaves become smaller, they often become thin and narrow, and change color to bluish with brown spots. A bronze tint appears. Near the petioles or veins, the color changes to purple or red.
- Iron (Fe). The veins of the leaves remain green against the background of a yellowing leaf plate. New leaves grow pale.
- Calcium (Ca). Death of young sprouts, fragility of shoots in general. Rolling and dying of young leaves.
- Copper (Cu). Green plants are full of pale and brown highlights, become lethargic. There is a slowdown in growth, the death of points of growth.
- Magnesium (Mg). In case of magnesium deficiency, brown yellow or red spots grow on the leaf blade between the veins.
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These are the main elements that lay the harvest in the country. Of course, the list is not exhaustive. If the starvation problem is identified, fertilizing the land will help.
Time to improve soil composition
Laying the foundation of the entire crop, namely fertilizing the soil, is a complex and ambiguous matter. Dry complex mineral supplements, their liquid solutions, organic matter or its infusions have different speed work in the soil, in plants, their roots. It is necessary to take these factors into account and correlate them with the structure of the soil at the dacha.
Nutrient elements, except nitrogen, are added to heavy soil in the fall, during digging, and to light soil - in the spring, since on sandy loam they go deeper during the winter, beyond the limits of active absorption by the roots.
It should be borne in mind that fertilizers applied for digging are far from a panacea for plant starvation. Regular feeding will be required during the period of growth, bud formation, ovary and fruit ripening.
Dry mineral fertilizers
Fertilizing with dry compositions of mineral salts is carried out under digging, embedded in the soil. For use in the country, they are produced in the form of granules or powder.
Nitrogen works best when applied in the spring in the form of nitrates. For winter application it is possible in ammonia form.
Potassium salts are added to the soil not only in spring, but also in autumn. Sandy loam and sandstone can be fertilized even in summer. Phosphorus fertilizers are also universal - they are applied in spring or autumn.
It is better to use mineral fertilizers in granular form: they do not cake and, unlike powder ones, they are easier to distribute.
Aqueous solutions of mineral elements
In liquid form, complex mineral salts are absorbed faster by the roots and act immediately after application. They are used throughout the summer season.
The plants are watered for the first time with a solution of mineral elements in open ground approximately 20 days after planting. Then at least once a month.
In addition to root feeding, you can spray the leaves throughout the growing season. This fertilizer is used if the roots cannot receive enough nutrition through the soil, due, for example, to low temperatures.
When to use organics
On personal plots Organic is an affordable natural fertilizer that ensures the environmental purity of grown fruits and vegetables.
Organic matter is easily absorbed by any plant.
Depending on the type, it can be used at different times:
How to fertilize the soil correctly
Knowing when to add nutrients is important, but knowing how to do it correctly is even more important.
In dry form, mineral fertilizers and organic matter are incorporated into the soil to such a depth that the root system of garden and vegetable crops has maximum access to nutrients. The optimal depth is up to 20 cm of wet soil. Left on the surface or embedded shallowly and in dry soil, nutrients will remain unavailable to plants.
If the soil is poor and there are few fertilizers, they are applied during direct planting - in the hole. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the roots do not come into direct contact with them, otherwise burns are possible.
Mineral fertilizers are often diluted not in the dosage recommended by the manufacturer, but 5-15% less. This prevents the accumulation of substances harmful to humans in vegetables and fruits.
There are some nuances to adding organic matter. It is best to use rotted or semi-rotted manure. Fresh releases ammonia, which is toxic to plants.
Often peat, chicken or bird droppings, compost and humus are embedded into the soil shallowly - up to 3 cm, while trying to distribute them as evenly as possible.
Separately, it must be said about sawdust. They are never introduced fresh: they can deplete the soil to the point of nitrogen starvation.
Liquid solutions of mineral salts and infusions of organic matter are applied in the area of the root zone of plants into shallow furrows in moist soil. After this procedure, they are sprayed so that no active substances remain on the leaves.
How to properly treat the soil?
Increasing soil fertility is painstaking work. Simply adding a complex of minerals will not change the structure of the soil; it will only temporarily and to a limited extent enrich it. You will not get environmentally friendly, healthy vegetables and fruits from such a plot. Only a comprehensive improvement of the soil structure and its enrichment with green manure, compost, peat, and manure will ensure long-term results.
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A good harvest can only be obtained on good soil, and for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is the best time to fertilize the soil?- in spring or autumn? The timing of applying fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure removed in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. The soil should be fertilized in the spring, leaving the manure to lie for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the efficiency of the fertilizer will almost double. About varieties, timing of application to the soil and effectiveness various types fertilizers will be discussed in this article.
All fertilizers are divided into 3 main groups: organic, mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers.
Organic fertilizers
They, in turn, are also divided into 2 groups: animal origin and plant origin. Plant fertilizers include composts and peat, and animal fertilizers include manure and poultry droppings. When fertilized with organic substances, the structure of the soil significantly improves and this promotes the reproduction of living organisms, which benefit both the soil itself and the plants. There are also some disadvantages - an imbalance of nutrients may occur, weed seeds may be found in such fertilizer, and organic matter can cause plant diseases and attract toxic substances.
If you decide to use organic fertilizers, it is better to use compost. It is prepared quite simply: on an area of about 10 square meters. meters, straw is laid out 15 cm thick, then a layer of manure - 20 cm, a layer of peat - 15-20 cm. Phosphate rock and lime, mixed in a 1:1 ratio, are poured on top. For 1 sq. meter you need to sprinkle 50-60 grams of the mixture. A layer of manure 15-20 thick is once again poured on top. All layers are covered with a thin layer of soil and kept for 7-8 months.
As for fertilizing with manure, in our time the number of cattle has decreased significantly, and therefore we have to look for an alternative. As products plant origin For fertilizer, you can use everything that grows and rots: mown grass, fallen leaves, tops and weeds, etc.
You cannot fertilize the soil with fresh manure.. Once in warm and moist soil, such fertilizer begins to actively decompose and release heat and gases, so the crop can simply “burn.” Fresh manure is used only for feeding mature plants, diluting it with water and watering the rows. You can also use dried manure, spreading it in a thin layer between the rows.
It is better to use manure if it has been sitting for at least a year - during this time it decomposes and turns into humus. It is worth remembering that in their pure form, manure and chicken droppings rot worse, so it is better to dilute these animal waste products with straw, leaves, sawdust and even shredded waste paper (it is better to take paper without printing ink).
IN organic fertilizer As is known, a smaller part of nitrogen is in soluble form, and a large part is part of insoluble organic compounds. When compost falls into the soil, myriads of soil creatures attack it, eating, decomposing and transforming it. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, insoluble nitrogen gradually turns into a soluble form, which is what analyzes have shown: immediately after adding compost to the soil, the content of soluble nitrogen begins to steadily increase. And then everything depends on the growth rate of the above-ground parts of the plants. In potatoes, this process is so intense that it “eats up” all the nitrogen prepared for it by soil organisms, therefore, under potatoes, the content of available nitrogen in the soil remains low until the beginning of August and begins to increase only when the potato tops stop their vigorous growth. On carrots, where top growth is slow at first, the nitrogen content was quite high until mid-July, and then decreased in accordance with the increased growth of foliage.
When fertilizing in autumn plant nutritional elements are part of the soil organomineral complex, and the plant lives throughout the next season due to the gradual disintegration of this complex and the release of available nutritional elements. The speed of this process depends on the activity of microflora, which is determined by external conditions: soil moisture, temperature, looseness, and so on.
In addition, organic fertilizer serves as a source of substances necessary for the formation of humus for soil microorganisms. When applied in autumn, organic fertilizer decomposes more slowly, and the process of its incorporation into humus is more intensive and contributes to increasing soil fertility to a greater extent. If you regularly add compost or manure to the soil in the fall, you can create in your garden real black soil. When applied in spring, organic fertilizer decomposes faster and better supplies plants with soluble nutrients. This is important for plants, since spring and early summer are their period active growth, requiring abundant nutrition. Thus, autumn organic fertilizer contributes more to soil fertility, and spring - to plant nutrition. Both are important.
The following solution naturally suggests itself: add compost or manure in the fall, and in spring and summer we feed the plants with liquid fertilizers, which are easy to make: mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion or any weeds. To enrich these nitrogen-rich infusions with phosphorus and potassium, bone or phosphate rock and ash are added to them. Another option is to apply most or even half of the compost in the fall, and the rest in the spring.
You can use green fertilizers. The main raw materials are ordinary grass and weeds. The green mass is finely chopped, placed in a large container and poured warm water(10 liters of water per 2 kilograms of grass). All this should be fermented for 2 - 3 days, after which you need to stir and strain the solution. Then the plants are fed with it at the rate of 3 - 4 liters per 1 square meter. The procedure must be performed 2–3 times at intervals of a week. This solution is useful for vegetable and berry crops, it not only nourishes them, but also protects them from pests and diseases.
Mineral fertilizers
These chemical substances should be used carefully and strictly according to the norm. Typically, gardeners and gardeners use nitrogen, potassium, manganese, lime and other types of such fertilizers. The most common nitrogen fertilizers include nitrate, urea, ammonia water and ammonia. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - the first time around mid-April, and the second time in mid-November. The method of applying them is the same in both seasons - fertilizers are scattered by hand, and then the soil is cultivated. It is better if the earth is moist at the same time.
Potash fertilizers also significantly increase yields. Typically, potassium in the soil is in a form that is difficult to access, so the need of plants for it is great. It is better to apply potassium fertilizers in the fall along with manure before the main cultivation of the land.
Phosphate fertilizers are also important for plants. Without this element, the formation of chlorophyll in plants is impossible, so the application of such fertilizers not only increases productivity, but also improves the quality of plant products. Phosphorus fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the soil, and then dug up to a depth of about 20 centimeters.
WITH mineral fertilizer we get the following picture. Immediately after application, a sharp jump in the content of soluble nitrogen was observed: it increased 5-6 times compared to the initial one and remained at high level until approximately mid-July. Analyzes showed that at some point there was three times more soluble nitrogen in the soil than was applied with mineral fertilizer. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that mineral fertilizer stimulates the decomposition of soil organic matter and accelerates the release of soluble nitrogen from it. The decay of humus under the influence of mineral fertilizers is a phenomenon that has even received a special name: the priming effect. But in the middle of summer, the peak is replaced by a sharp drop, and the content of soluble nitrogen in both cases - with organic and mineral fertilizers - becomes the same.
It is not difficult to guess what consequences this has for plants. On mineral fertilizers, they grow more intensively, develop abundant leaf mass and give a correspondingly higher yield, although this applies to different crops to a different extent: spinach and potatoes yielded significantly higher yields on mineral fertilizers than on compost, while beans and carrots turned out to be less dependent on nitrogen.
However, when studying the quality of the crop, the advantage turned out to be on the side organic fertilizer. This manifested itself in a lower nitrate content, and most importantly, in a significant reduction in storage losses. Both potatoes and carrots grown on organic fertilizers were less affected by fungal diseases.
Mineral fertilizers do not increase soil fertility, but rather destroy it. They can be used for fertilizing, but only in very moderate doses, so as not to cause excessive leaf growth and not to disrupt the activity of soil microflora. Moreover, it is worth applying mineral fertilizers only if organic fertilizers are applied in the fall, since soil with a high organic content partially removes the negative effects of mineral fertilizers.
Organo-mineral fertilizers
They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used for individual scheme, but there are also general rules. For open soil, spraying is used, and for closed soil, surface watering, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on the leaves are used. For seed treatment, 300-700 ml of fertilizers per ton of seeds are used, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation- 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.
Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rapeseed, oilseed radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Until recently, only lupine was used to improve the soil, which enriched the soil with nitrogenous mineral fertilizers, but in Lately Other equally useful and effective plants became known.
For example, after harvesting, you can sow the area with rapeseed, which will have time to sprout before the onset of frost and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow melts, it will begin to grow intensively and should be plowed into the soil before the beginning of May. After this, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve its structure. In addition, rapeseed contains a large amount of phytoncides, which destroy pathogens in the soil.
If there is a possibility of not using a plot of land for a whole year, then you can sow it with oilseed radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary amount of nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. Approximately 70 grams of radish seeds go to one hundred square meters of land. For uniform sowing, it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.
And a little more about how to properly prepare and fertilize the soil with manure.
We have already looked in detail at how to properly fertilize with chicken manure, now we will learn more about manure. Good quality manure is obtained where it is stored in stalls under livestock, trampled down daily, and covered with a new layer of straw. During daily removal of manure, it is stored in large manure storage areas, where it must be transferred to better preservation peat or soil. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add about 1.5 kg of peat to the bedding or put in the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves the slurry, which contains the main nutrients substances for plants. When covering the manure and layering it with soil and peat, all the nitrogen. When stored in this way, manure usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60-90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7-9 cm is applied. The richer the earth in humus, the better. A 60-90 cm layer of manure is again applied to this soil, which is again covered with soil in the same way. The manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage facility is usually lined with straw, a layer 60 cm thick. The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage facility itself is usually selected high place so that by-product water does not flow into it. The liquid water flowing out of the manure storage must be collected in special reservoirs, and the same liquid must be watered on top of the manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure become too compacted and heat up. A big mistake is made by those who fertilize with manure , digging too deep into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to fertilize with manure to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied into the soil to a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access and therefore the fertilizer cannot decompose properly and produce the proper effect on the tree . Practice has often shown us that fertilizer applied too deeply was found in the soil after several years in the same form as when applied to the soil, and, therefore, absolutely no benefit came from it.If you fertilize with manure in the summer, the fertilizer is always piled up in small heaps, broken up and plowed up as quickly as possible. The heavier the soil, the finer the incorporation of manure. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after plowing, it is plowed back to the surface and mixed well with the soil. In most cases, it is also beneficial to roll the soil with a heavy roller after fertilizing with manure, since in this case the manure is pressed to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes the rapid germination of weeds, which must be immediately destroyed.
When growing cabbage, strawberries and other plants, it is best to use humus from greenhouses or completely decomposed manure, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects are easily infested. Under the cover of humus, moisture is retained in the ridges; in addition, rain and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizing the ridges and moistening them is achieved. The humus should be placed in a layer about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. Strawberries should be fertilized with manure especially carefully so that the manure does not get into the core of the bush. Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc.
When buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and, compared to humus, are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils, which differ too much light color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the heating of the soil occurs more evenly. On dense clay soils and light sandy soils, crushed peat can be used for surface fertilization with complete success. In the fall, worn-out and completely weathered peat is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more cohesive.
Green manure
Natural organic matter (manure, droppings) is not available to everyone, and it costs a lot of money. In the fight against weeds, just like a thousand years ago, you have to swing a hoe and crawl on your knees. If the summer is wet, potatoes are overcome by various diseases, and as a result, in the autumn and winter, there is a need to repeatedly sort the crop to remove diseased tubers.
Indeed, a lot of labor and money goes into dacha farming. Is it possible to ease the financial and physical burden that falls on a person who maintains a garden or dacha?
Yes, you can. Let's start with the fact that in the old days they avoided using fresh manure for potatoes. It was believed that it made the tubers tasteless and watery. Diseases accumulated in the soil were freed by applying fruit change. Of course, having several acres of land (each with an area of 1.1 hectares), it was possible to organize a three- or seven-field crop rotation. Nowadays, on six hundred square meters, this is a rather difficult task. But still the people do not despair - one sows barley, the second winter rye, and the third dreams of growing peas together with potatoes.
CRUCIFULAR CROPS
The best option is to sow cruciferous crops as a green fertilizer, consisting of a mixture oilseed radish, white mustard, rapeseed. These plants have been known in world agricultural practice since time immemorial, being close relatives of cabbage plants. They came to us from the ancient farmers of East Asia and the Mediterranean. Cruciferous crops are now widely cultivated economically. developed countries(France, Germany, Holland, Sweden, etc.) as phytosanitary and as crops that increase soil fertility.
Oilseed radish- a powerful, highly branched and spreading plant 1.5-2.0 m high; with flower corollas ranging from white to purple. Not found in wild flora; wild field species are found. Cold-resistant plant, growth does not stop until late autumn, grows back after mowing. Compared to white mustard, it is more moisture-loving, shade-tolerant and productive. The seeds and pods taste like radishes. Blooms 35-45 days after sowing.
White mustard- was one of magical plants ancient Greeks. Even today, with its unique properties, it serves as a classic object of scientific study. The height of its shoots is slightly lower than that of oilseed radish, and the flowers on the clusters are yellow. Mustard is the fastest ripening annual plant. It reacts strongly to day length and photo period, so the highest yields are obtained during summer sowing dates - after June 22. Convenient for its early ripening and undemanding soil type.
Rape- about 1.2-1.5 m high, light yellow flowers. It is somewhat more demanding of heat than oilseed radish and white mustard. There are spring and winter forms, which can transform into each other. The pods of spring rapeseed can open after the seeds ripen, then the sowing itself occurs and after overwintering in the spring, some of the young plants grow back in the form of a winter form. Sometimes another type is practiced - rapeseed. This is a more “wild” form, inferior to rapeseed in yield, has a bitter taste and is less easily eaten by animals, but is better adapted to different types soil There are hybrid forms of rapeseed with kale and turnip (for example, Typhon), which are relatively more productive and stable in different climatic conditions.
USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GREEN FERTILIZER
What are the benefits of cruciferous crops?
Here are 7 of their most distinctive properties:
1. To sow one hundred square meters of land, only 180-220 g of seeds are required. More dense sowing is used if the biomass will additionally be used for animal feed. Crops have a very high speed of development, so they can be sown at the most different terms, from May to September. The best time to obtain a high harvest is June-July. In practice, it is re-sown 2-3 times per season. Flowering occurs 30-40 days after germination and lasts until the end of autumn. Flowering plants can withstand frosts down to - 6...8° and even - 12° C.
2. The green mass of plants contains the same amount of nutrients as cow manure: nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.25%; potassium - 0.6%. The mass of plant residues grown on an area of 100 m2 contains the following amount of mineral fertilizers (in conventional terms for chemical composition): 3-5 kg of ammonium nitrate; 2.5-3.5 kg of superphosphate; 3.5-5.0 kg of potassium salt. In addition, green mass, when incorporated into the soil, deoxidizes it, acting similarly to the addition of lime, since it has an alkaline content of cell sap.
3. The underground part of plants has the ability to absorb nitrogen from the air, like clover and lupine. Root secretions dissolve mineral inclusions in the soil and convert microelements, phosphorus and potassium into a form accessible to subsequent crops.
4. The decomposing biomass of cruciferous vegetables releases substances into the soil that inhibit and suppress the growth and development of weeds. On a substrate rich in organic matter, saprophytic microflora rapidly develops, which displaces pathogens of agricultural crops from the soil.
5. After harvesting the green mass, together with the rotted residues, stimulants of plant growth and development from the class of brassinosteroids remain in the soil, increasing the yield and improving the quality of marketable products of subsequent crops.
6. Green mass is an excellent food for all types of animals and birds; it contains up to 30-35% crude protein based on dry matter. This is 2 times more than in clover and 3 times more than in barley grain. It is rich in vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids and various nutrients. Regular feeding, even in the form of a small supplement, strengthens the immune system of young animals, giving it resistance against viral and bacterial aggression. Young, not hardened shoots, having a sweet-burning taste of radish, are a delicacy for children. Radish pods are canned like vegetables. Prepared from ripened mustard seeds mustard powder and medicinal ointment used for various diseases and ailments.
7.The honey-bearing qualities of cruciferous crops are also generally recognized. Their main advantage is the release of nectar on days even with cold nights. Nectar contains an average of 120-180 kg/ha of sugars. Cruciferous crops provide honey collection in early spring (winter species) and in the second half of summer (spring species), when other honey plants have already faded. Honey crystallizes, so it is removed from the hives for the winter.
AGROTECHNIQUES OF CULTIVATION
Cruciferous crops can be sown as green fertilizer at any time - from early spring to late autumn. For sowing, a small (required) amount of seeds is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:50, scattered over the site and covered with soil. The optimal seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Cruciferous plants are not picky about the type of soil, but are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers (if the soil is poor).
To some extent, shoots early dates crops can be damaged by pests; the likelihood of this fact is low in June and July crops. With sparse seedlings, there is no need to worry too much, since the yield size is capable of auto-compensation, that is, it depends little on the density (standing density) of plants per unit area.
When used as a green fertilizer, plant biomass during the flowering phase is mowed, crushed and embedded in the soil. This is the cheapest type of fertilizer, which cannot be compared with any other type in terms of early maturity and economic efficiency. In the northern regions, it is possible to “fertilize” the soil in this way twice per season. In the middle lane, this can be done three times.
If the plot is half a hectare or more in size, part of the area can be withdrawn from cultivation for 3-4 years by sowing pink clover (on waterlogged and swampy soils), pink clover and lupine (on heavy clay soils), blue alfalfa and eastern goat's rue ( on medium and light loams), horned clamweed and yellow alfalfa (on light and sandy loam soils).
One of the basic rules of organic farming is to never leave the soil bare. Green manures that grow before, after or in between main crops create dense leaf cover. It protects the soil from weathering and mineralization of organic matter, reduces the leaching of nutrients into deep layers and retains them in the upper fertile horizon. This leaf cover plays the role of living leaf mulch, which is especially important for light sandy soils, which especially suffer from leaching of nutrients from the top horizon. Therefore, it is recommended, whenever possible, to sow green fertilizer on light soils in the fall and leave it for the winter, and in the spring to embed living or dead plants into the soil.
Green manure also plays an important sanitary role. First, it suppresses the growth of weeds, and in order to prevent it from becoming a weed itself, it must be mowed or covered before seeds form. This applies to rapidly growing and abundantly seeded rapeseed or mustard plants. Secondly, some types of green fertilizer help cleanse the soil of pests and diseases. For example, dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the number of wireworms.
Green manure produces green mass that can be used as mulch or composting material.
Take care of the land on time and correctly and you will always have a rich harvest!
Autumn – more favorable time for adding fertilizers to the soil and preparing the garden for spring. After all, in winter the earth rests and can effectively process all the components in it.
Natural and synthetic additives
Gardeners know that after harvesting, the soil should be prepared for the next season. But not everyone knows what can be used as fertilizer if there is no manure. Some replace this supplement with complex preparations. Others apply fertilizer separately. Such methods are incorrect, since during the winter most beneficial properties may evaporate. Therefore, you should know what is better to make in the fall and what in the spring. It is also necessary to know that not all fertilizers are universal. Fall fertilizers can be used to fertilize the soil under trees and shrubs, and some are used only for garden crops.
Bird droppings are endowed with organic components and are the most effective fertilizer. It is good to make such an additive under strawberries, but not in spring and not in summer, since bird droppings consist of a caustic substance and can have a detrimental effect on plants. In addition to the fact that top dressing should be used prepared, it should not be allowed to get on the roots of the culture. This fertilizer is best used in the fall. But before use, bird droppings must ferment and then settle. It must be applied after dilution with water. Fertilizer will be more effective if applied to the soil in the fall. If the earth is dug up, then such organic matter is added in its original form, without preparation and dilution in a liquid. Fertilize the soil bird droppings needed every few years. If you make it annually, you can harm the plants.
Using compost
If there is no bird droppings or manure, you can use compost, which is then dug up along with the soil. Some cover the surface of the soil with compost before plowing. No, as practice has shown, this is not The best way. After harvesting the entire crop, it is necessary to remove all weeds and spread compost in an even layer. It will be better if, in conclusion, the supplement is poured with an EM preparation. It is diluted in water (instructions are included in each package). After treatment, the soil is loosened with a Fokin flat cutter and left until spring. With this method, the soil remains fertile and does not turn sour. Such top dressing allows you not to make additives in the spring.
Compost is suitable as fertilizer for potatoes. It is distributed on the site in autumn, and with the onset of heat, tubers are planted. Thanks to this method, the harvest is harvested 2 weeks earlier. Fertilizer is used for growing early vegetable plants.
How to fertilize fruit trees in the fall?
Both garden and horticultural crops need additional feeding. For this purpose, you can use compost, which will serve as a protection for tree roots. This substrate is laid around the trunk in an even layer along the entire diameter and left for the winter until spring. After which the soil is loosened. Thus, the beneficial substances included in the substrate end up deep in the soil and have a positive effect on the root system.
Should ash be used as fertilizer?
In the fall, organic matter is also added to the soil. However, this must be done correctly. Ash is rich in potassium. It must be added to heavy clay soil. The application rate is calculated as a glass of ash per 1 m2. If the soil is soft, then it is pointless to add ash, since it will still be washed out of the soil by melt water. This additive is considered ideal for enriching the soil with potassium, as well as for combating harmful insects. Future beds for onions and garlic are well sprinkled with ash. This procedure is done in the fall before the onset of cold weather. Fertilizer is applied in a thick layer (1 cm or more) so that it tightly covers the area. In this way, winter onions and garlic can be protected.
Fertilizers that should be used in the fall
Among the fertilizers that are applied to the soil in the fall, in addition to organic ones, there may also be synthetic ones. This is superphosphate endowed with phosphorus. This element is difficult to dissolve in the earth. For this reason, it must be applied in the fall to allow the main element to completely dissolve over several months. And in the summer, this substance can nourish any culture. When using additives for digging in the fall, you need to pay attention to the instructions from the manufacturer and follow them. Here http://spsad.com.ua/catalog/dlya-ovoshchnykh/ fertilizers for vegetables are presented at affordable prices.
- double superphosphate. 20-30 g will be needed per 1 square meter;
- granulated superphosphate. Up to 40 g of funds are spent per 1 square meter.
Ammoniated superphosphate is not applied to the soil in the fall, as it will evaporate during the winter. Together with superphosphates, fertilizers are added to the soil, which include potassium. It turns out that phosphorus dissolves better simultaneously with potassium.
Phosphorite flour. Is it worth using it?
Among the fertilizers used in autumn period, there is also phosphate rock, which is added to leached chernozems and poor soddy-podzolic soil. This remedy is natural. In fact, these are crushed rocks. Additives should be made in the fall for digging in conjunction with manure. Thus, phosphorus will be better dissolved in the soil. You need to know that calcium is included in the composition of phosphate rock, so it is not used for all plants. The main advantage of this fertilizer is naturalness. For humans, the supplement is absolutely harmless.
Urea as an organic fertilizer
Any gardener should know that work on the plot in the fall will depend on future harvest. Additives that should be used during this period include urea, which is a nitrogen supplement. It is also called urea. The main substance included in its composition is amide nitrogen. This component allows you to use urea in the autumn. After all, it is known that there is no point in adding nitrogen in the fall. But the amide substance contained in urea retains nitrogen in the soil. Fertilizer is used in the fall, adding it to the soil along with phosphorus fertilizers for fruit trees. You can use nitrogen supplements in the spring. But then there will be less time for assimilation.
Before? How to apply fertilizer: chalk or limestone is used to neutralize superphosphate. However, we must not forget about the required proportions: a kilogram of superphosphate is used with 100 grams of chalk or limestone. Urea (two parts) is added to this mixture. Mix everything and fertilize the soil. Approximately 130-140 g of composition will be needed per 1 square meter. Fruit trees are fed with urea and manure. In this case, you can reduce the amount of urea to 40 grams per 1 square meter.
Potassium sulfate
It is used in conjunction with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. This preparation is often used to fertilize the soil under raspberries, gooseberries, currants, as well as under strawberries and wild strawberries. With the help of potassium sulfate added to the ground in the fall, shrubs can more easily endure winter with its cold and frost. 30 grams of this fertilizer is enough for 1 square meter.
Calcium chloride
Used as a topping for potatoes. It is scattered across the fields in the fall. The product is suitable for soil on which crops that cannot tolerate chloride additives will be planted in the spring. This substance is unstable. After application, after 5-6 months it evaporates or dissolves in melt water, leaving calcium. 20 grams of additive is enough for 1 square meter. If microelements are added to the soil separately in the fall, only a small part of them can be preserved in the spring, which will not affect the crop yield.
Autumn is the time to plant crops for next year, so you need to fertilize the soil with mineral fertilizers and organic matter. The fertility of the soil largely depends on the introduction of nutrients into it in the fall.
The amount and type of fertilizer depends on the type of soil and vegetation on it. The most optimal period for fertilizing is September or October. If there are no organic fertilizers, chemistry comes to the rescue.
Mineral fertilizers are used in the areas:
- containing nitrogen - urea, ammonium sulfate, various types of nitrate;
- phosphorus - phosphate rock, superphosphate, waste slag and others;
- potassium supplements – potassium sulfate and potassium chloride, wood ash, potassium salts in assortment;
- complex, consisting of several of the most popular microelements.
Nitrogen fertilizers are used in the autumn when growing late-ripening vegetables.
Organic waste - sawdust can be used to loosen both heavy clay soils and light sandy soils. Although sawdust rots extremely slowly, it helps retain moisture, serves as an excellent mulch, and helps create a loose fertile layer. When using sawdust, it should be borne in mind that they oxidize the soil layer.
How to feed garden plantings
Trees in the garden require additional nutrition after the end of fruiting. Fertilizing, which is applied before winter, should help the plant develop as much as possible and not be washed out by precipitation until spring. Nitrogen fertilizers promote the growth of plantings, which is not at all required in winter, so adding nitrogen to the soil layer in the fall is not recommended.
But calcium in the form of liming or dolomite flour, resistant to ordinary water, is necessary for plants - it regulates the acidity of the soil. Also, the mineral contributes to the reproduction of microorganisms living in the earth, which create a fertile layer. Clay is especially useful, as its structure improves and oxygen is supplied to plants.
Stone fruit crops require a normal or slightly acidic soil reaction, in which they develop better and form a bountiful harvest.
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The need of plantings for magnesium can also be satisfied by feeding plants with dolomite flour before winter. The fertilizer contains 9-20% magnesium carbonate, which is quite enough for garden trees and shrubs with the correct calculation of the required amount of funds. Fruit trees should be fed with the help of dug grooves along the perimeter of the crown. On an adult apple tree, it is enough to apply 700-1100 g of dolomite flour to a depth of 10-15 cm. The groove must be covered and the top layer compacted. Do not mix fertilizer with manure or compost, as nitrogen is formed, which evaporates in the form of ammonia vapors.
Fertilizer can also be applied in a trench dug along the planting row if the plants are planted too close together. The depth of the ditch should be at least 25 cm, the bottom of which should be well moistened for a better effect of nutrients on the plants.
The trunk circles of young trees can be covered with a thick layer of peat, which will simultaneously protect the roots of the plantings from the effects of cold and supply the plant with useful substances.
It is useful to apply 100 g of superphosphate under each fruit-bearing tree, dropping it into the trunk circle to a depth of no more than 10 cm, so as not to damage the root system.
Phosphorus fertilizers help perennials survive the winter due to the formation of a powerful root system and increased frost resistance. From potassium supplements to winter time Chlorine is washed out, which negatively affects many plants.
How to increase the fertility of clay soils
Fertilizing with manure applied in the fall will help make clay soil more permeable to air and fertile. Acidic soil requires liming at the rate of 300-600 g of lime per square meter of land. It is recommended to restore normal acidity once every 3 years by digging the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet.
Organic matter should be added next year, in spring or autumn, so as not to lose nitrogen. It is recommended to fertilize poor clay soils with fresh manure, scattering it over the surface. 3 kg of organic matter is required per square meter of area. Heavy soils require the application of horse, sheep or rabbit manure; they loosen the soil better. Also in the fall, bird droppings are added to the clay, scattering it on top of the ground.
If there is no fresh manure, you can sow green manure immediately after harvesting. Plants increase voluminous green mass in a short period. In the stage of milky ripeness of the seeds, the plant fertilizer should be mowed and dug into the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm. Over the winter, green manure can loosen the clay area, providing food for soil microorganisms.
How to improve the fertility of clay soil?
Mainly used annual plants in order to maximally supply the soil layer with organic matter. For clay soils, it is optimal to use rapeseed plantings, the root system of which is capable of loosening heavy soils.
What to do to increase fertility in sandy soils
Sandy soil practically does not hold applied fertilizers. To improve its structure, cow or pig manure is applied in the fall, green manure crops are sown; lupine is considered the best for sandy soil. Its root system draws useful substances from the depths of the earth: phosphorus, magnesium, calcium and other trace elements that accumulate in the green mass. When digging up mown plants, substances gradually pass into the ground, increasing its fertility.
It is effective to enrich the soil with useful substances contained in turf soil, the layers of which lie on the surface of the site with the grass facing down. The top is covered with manure, droppings, straw, sawdust or other types of organic matter. In spring, the soil is dug up and the planted plants are supplied with nutrients.
If you apply mineral fertilizers in the fall, precipitation dissolves granular minerals, helping to better supply the soil layer with nutrition. The most common uses of phosphate rock, superphosphate, sulfate and ammonium chloride, sulfate and potassium chloride.
It is recommended to apply 60-120 g of mineral fertilizers per square meter of surface. If the kit includes organics, the dose should be reduced by a third. Depending on the amount of fertilizer applied and crop rotation, the frequency of necessary fertilizing changes. If you add a lot of organic matter, you can fertilize the soil next time in a year or two. Manure for fertilizer requires 300-400 kg per hundred square meters, then next year in the fall you can skip fertilizing.
What are the benefits of fertilizing plants?
When it is not possible to obtain organic matter, you can purchase a special complex of mineral fertilizers intended for a specific type of plant in a retail chain. There should be a mark on the package when to feed the plants.
Mineral fertilizers help perennials:
- more successfully resist frost and cold in winter;
- formation of the root system;
- earlier flowering and fruiting;
- resistance to diseases and pests.
In order for the complex of microelements to be maximally absorbed by the plant, the soil layer should be thoroughly watered before adding micronutrients.
Each gardener chooses for himself when and with what to restore fertility, so that the plants respond with an increase in yield for the care shown.
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