The garage room has a multifunctional purpose, since in addition to parking a vehicle, a workshop or a place to store supplies and household utensils can be equipped there. Therefore, it is important to create the required microclimate in the garage, providing high-quality thermal insulation.
The need for insulation and ventilation
Parking and storage of vehicles in the garage should take place under certain conditions that will favor the preservation of the operational properties and durability of the vehicle.
Basic requirements for maintaining the microclimate in the garage:
- during the cold season, the temperature should be within +5 degrees Celsius, which is optimal value for car storage;
- the room must be equipped with a ventilation system that provides an air flow of about 180 cubic meters. m. per hour per unit of vehicle.
The opinion of some motorists that the temperature of the storage room close to room temperature is favorable for the car is erroneous. Keeping the car under these conditions winter time may have negative consequences. This is due to the fact that condensation will inevitably occur, which leads to the development of corrosion.
The garage must be warm.
There is another typical mistake in the production of insulation work. It is connected with the fact that all places where an influx of external air into the garage is possible are eliminated, and ventilation holes. Lack of ventilation can lead to extremely negative consequences for human health, up to and including death.
In addition, one should not forget about such a phenomenon as thermal inertia, it affects the rate of change in the temperature of bodies over time. Therefore, thermal insulation should be designed in such a way that the index of its thermal inertia increases inward, and the thermal conductivity, on the contrary, decreases.
The physical essence of heat transfer
When insulating a garage, it is important to carry out right choice thermal insulation materials. It is difficult to do this without understanding the essence of the ongoing heat transfer processes. For the conditions of the garage premises, the following physical processes are of interest:
- convective heat transfer thermal energy is transmitted from a body with a higher temperature to a less heated one;
- conductive heat transfer, which occurs by transferring heat from hotter areas of the body to areas of lower temperature;
- thermal radiation, which is electromagnetic, occurring due to the internal energy of the body.
Thus, the most effective will be such a heater that prevents the flow of convective and conductive processes and has the ability to reflect thermal radiation.
Garage wall insulation materials
Mineral wool
Mineral wool Garage insulation in many cases is carried out using mineral wool, which does not disturb the “breathing” of the room. In the production of work on the insulation of external surfaces, rigid mats are used, and for internal surfaces, mats with less rigidity are used.
The leader in terms of thermal conductivity and sound absorption is basalt mineral wool. The use of mineral wool requires a vapor barrier layer. It is necessary to protect the material from the influence of atmospheric moisture and preserve its properties.
It should be understood that the use of such a powerful insulation is advisable when the garage is part of a residential building. Under other conditions this is not necessary.
glass wool
glass wool The cost of glass wool is significantly lower than the price of mineral wool. The difference is at the level of 20-25%. The properties of the material are such that it is dangerous to work without the use of special gloves that protect against its fibers. The ingress of water on glass wool leads to its total damage. Wet fibers increase their mass and become lumpy. In addition, the heat-insulating ability is completely lost and extremely bad smell. In order to prevent such negative phenomena, it is necessary to isolate the entire material with foil or film.
Styrofoam
Insulating a garage with polystyrene foam is one of the most popular ways to insulate rooms. This is due to the simplicity when working with it, low weight, manufacturability during processing, low level water absorption, resistance to biological factors and affordable price. Expanded polystyrene has the best qualities, which has a high rate of vapor and water permeability, as well as a long service life.
Styrofoam The disadvantages of this polymer include poor breathability and flammability. It is desirable to use self-extinguishing foam, which is able to stop burning in a matter of seconds if the flame source is neutralized. The material turns yellow when exposed to sunlight.
Reflective thermal insulation
Insulation The appearance of reflective thermal insulation in the building materials market was the result of innovative ideas in the field of energy saving. Foamed polyurethane foam is used as the material on one side, and polished foil on the other.
The rolled material has a thickness of 2-5 mm, which makes it possible to cover the surface. The material is highly effective in reducing heat loss by radiation, but does not provide sufficient protection against convection and conduction.
Warm plaster
Warm plaster This material is a plaster with an unusual composition. It is possible to use expanded vermiculite, sawdust, expanded polystyrene as a filler.
It should be understood that in order to obtain the desired heat-insulating effect, it is necessary to create a layer of material that is significant in thickness and mass. More appropriate combination warm plaster with other types of heaters.
Thermal insulation paint
It is possible to insulate the garage with the help of liquid heat insulators, which, in addition to the main function, give the building an attractive appearance. These materials are based on acrylic polymers, into which synthetic rubber and pigments of organic origin are introduced. The consistency of the heat insulator is similar to regular paint, but at the same time its layer of 1 mm can replace 50 mm of mineral wool.
Paint with thermal insulation properties can be applied to a surface consisting of almost any material. It has good vapor permeability and is easy to use.
Insulation of garage walls from the outside
It is recommended to insulate the garage from the outside using polystyrene foam. This material has the required thermal insulation properties at an affordable cost. In this case, it is necessary to provide in places where impact is possible high temperature when operating the equipment or heating devices, replacing plastic with non-combustible mineral wool slabs.
Before installing foam boards, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First of all, a thorough cleaning of the walls and the removal of surface defects should be carried out. After that, it is desirable to prime it for better adhesion to the insulation material.
Insulation works Styrofoam can be attached to the garage wall using the point method of applying the solution, followed by tight pressing to the plane. The slab method is simpler, in which the solution is evenly applied with a spatula.
Laying of plates should occur from the bottom up in a checkerboard pattern. The first row is laid using an initial plank fixed to the wall. To make the fastening of the plates reliable, they are additionally attached using plastic dowels.
Due to the low strength of the insulation material, it becomes necessary to clad it. For this, plastering with fiberglass mesh reinforcement and further application of a layer is used. decorative plaster and paints. Often used for this siding or materials of a similar purpose.
Warming the walls of the garage from the inside
Internal insulation of the garage is made in rare cases. If such a need arose, then the order of work will be as follows. A prefabricated false partition is attached to the prepared surface, in the frame of which a heater is inserted.
In addition to drywall, you can use asbestos fiber. This material has high level fire resistance, but at the same time has significant fragility. This necessitates the creation of a frame with a smaller step.
Cotton wool insulation is widely used, which is explained by the greater ease of work compared to polystyrene foam. For mounting cotton wool, special hooks are used. A prerequisite for this is the need to create a vapor barrier using a membrane.
Application of modern liquid heaters for thermal insulation metal structures garages allows you to reach desired effect. Cut costs Money and time when insulating an iron garage is possible by installing foam boards with glue. The main condition for reliable fastening of the material is careful surface preparation. Joints of plates must be blown out using building foam.
Garage door insulation
Garage door insulation It is possible to reduce heat loss through garage doors at the design stage. If a gate is provided in one of the wings, then there is no need to open them completely. Also effective method heat preservation is to create a veil of plastic or fabric.
Styrofoam is the most optimal heat insulator for garage door insulation. For this purpose, a crate is created on their inner side, into which foam plates are laid, followed by sealing the joints between them.
During the operation of insulated gates, condensation forms at the points of contact between the metal and the heat insulator. That's why metal surfaces must have a protective layer of anti-corrosion material and additional waterproofing. After that, a frame is mounted for attaching the skin wooden slats or OSB.
Garage roof insulation
Roof insulation In the case when the garage is a separate structure, it becomes necessary to insulate its roof. To fix the thermal insulation, a technique is used that corresponds to the material from which the ceiling is made. If it has a wooden base, then the foam can be fixed with dowels or nails, and then lined with a suitable facing material.
With a concrete floor, it is necessary to build a frame, reinforced with metal corners and self-tapping screws. The foam is laid on the frame and pre-fixed with adhesive tape. When pinned sheet material cladding is a dense pressing of the insulation to the ceiling.
If fiber-based insulation is used, then waterproofing measures are necessary. A layer of waterproofing is placed on one side of the roof, and a vapor barrier is arranged on the side of the garage.
To protect against the effects of biological factors, antiseptic treatment is carried out, and to improve appearance – decorative cladding surfaces various formulations or paints.
This is a guarantee of the durability of the body of your car. It would seem that the body of the car is made of metal, therefore, it should serve for a long time and not be subject to various weather conditions, but everything is a little bit different from what we wanted. Metal, although a durable material, can still begin to deteriorate when improper care. Sudden temperature fluctuations and changes in weather conditions (snow-rain) can lead to violations of the anti-corrosion protection of the metal on the body of your car, which can lead to rust, followed by complete deformation of the body and its destruction. In order to keep the body of your car intact for as long as possible, I recommend taking care of the insulation of the garage. This process is quite simple and economical in relation to the funds that you may have to spend on replacing body parts when rusted.
Where to start insulating the garage?
I propose to start the process of insulation from the walls, usually when building a garage, no one seeks to make the walls thick and warm, therefore thin walls cannot become a reliable protector from the cold. In such a garage, even install heating element made no sense, since all the heat generated will not linger long inside the garage through thin walls.
The most common mistakes when insulating a garage:
- some motorists believe that in the garage it is necessary to maintain a temperature of 20 degrees above zero, as is usually done in residential buildings. This opinion is fundamentally wrong, because if +20 degrees is comfortable temperature for a person, this does not mean that it will be comfortable for the car, namely for a metal body. If in summer such a warm garage does not bring any harm to your car, then when it is used in winter, the temperature difference between the street and the garage will be too large, which will lead to condensation on the car body, followed by the formation of rust. The most optimum temperature, which should be maintained in the garage is +5.
The second most common mistake when insulating a garage is that owners begin to seal up all possible holes and crevices in order to protect the car from penetrating cold air as best as possible, as a result of such insulation, even ventilation holes are sealed. With such diligent warming, everyone forgets about the great danger that it carries, if there is no ventilation in the garage, then the combustion products that will form when the car warms up will accumulate in the garage, which is very dangerous for human health. Therefore, ventilation is very important for a garage room. Also, the presence of ventilation will allow you to get rid of excess moisture that can form as a result of rapidly melting ice that accumulates on the bottom of the car while driving in winter.
What materials to use?
Among the many options for heaters, I recommend the most proven four types:
1. Mineral wool - very quickly and efficiently will help to insulate the walls of the garage and, despite its dense texture, perfectly provide the effect of breathing walls. If you decide to do external wall insulation, then hard mats are best for you; their density reaches 240 kg / per cubic meter, if the insulation will be carried out from nutria, then it is best to use soft or semi-rigid mats. The best variety mineral wool is basalt mineral wool, which is known for its record-breaking thermal conductivity.
2. Glass wool is more economical option than mineral wool. When working with glass wool, be sure to use protective gloves, as this material is very scratchy and can injure your hands.
3. The leader among the popularity in the market of heaters is Styrofoam. Very comfortable and practical material. Known for high thermal conductivity and ease of installation. It is not susceptible to moisture, is easy to process, has affordable price. The lines of its operation reaches forty years. The disadvantage of this material is that it is not able to pass air.
4. Reflective thermal insulation - this type of insulation appeared on the market relatively recently, but has already managed to win its fans. Reflective insulation is roll material one side of which is covered with foamed polyurethane foam, and on the other side with polished foil.
It is worth starting the insulation of the garage from the outer walls, if you have a brick garage, then foam plastic is perfect for its insulation. Walls insulated with polystyrene foam keep the air temperature in the room well. To prepare the surface for fixing the foam, they must be cleaned of foreign dirt, dried plaster and different kind stains, the final stage of preparing the walls should be their treatment with a primer.
Let's start laying foam.
We apply glue to the surface of the foam sheet and, using a notched trowel, evenly distribute it over the surface of the sheet, then firmly press the foam sheet against the wall, lay the foam sheets on the wall in a checkerboard pattern, firmly fixing them together. The first row must be laid out on a bar, which is attached with dowels
After the glue has completely dried, I recommend additionally fixing each foam sheet with plastic dowels. After all the walls are lined with foam sheets, we proceed to the final stage of insulation, namely, the application of plaster on our foam sheets.
By itself, the plaster will perform two important functions:
- stannit a kind of protective layer of our foam sheets from the effects of weather factors;
- will perform a decorative function for exterior walls. The plastered walls can be painted any color you like.
Preservation of heat is a prerequisite for any room that will be operated in the winter season. This is especially true for garage buildings that are open to "all winds" and, for the most part, are not suitable for installation. central heating. Adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out by means of internal or external wall insulation, which allows you to keep the positive temperature indoors even in severe frosts.
Where to insulate: inside or outside?
To keep the heat inside the garage, you need to create a screen from insulation material, which will not let the cold in from the outside and will keep internal warmth. The heat-insulating layer can be located both outside the building and inside - the principle of heat preservation is the same in both cases, however, each of the options has its own nuances that should be taken into account. External thermal insulation is more effective as it keeps the cold from reaching the walls and does not affect the inside of the garage. But at the same time, this method of insulation is more expensive and time-consuming - the creation of a masking facade that will hide the insulation will be expensive.
Internal insulation reduces the internal area of the garage by the thickness of the insulation material, but at the same time it is several times cheaper and does not require special skills for self-assembly. If your main goal is to directly prepare the garage for the cold and you are not planning large-scale construction works, then this method of insulation will be the best solution.
Material selection
As a heater, almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, organic insulation, etc. In general, for the insulation of the garage, it is appropriate to use any of the above items, if you are guided by the principle "it will not get worse." However, if you have a choice, it is better to familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages various kinds insulation to choose the most suitable name for a particular situation.
Polyfoam - universal insulation for the garage
- Styrofoam. Foam boards are low cost - this is the cheapest insulation material on the market. domestic market. Of the advantages of this material, an insignificant mass, moisture resistance and ease of processing stand out. The obvious disadvantages include a high fire hazard and a fragile structure.
- Styrofoam. It has all the technical advantages of polystyrene, but at the same time it is less combustible and more durable material. The price of the insulation is slightly higher than the foam analogue, but it does not go beyond the permissible limits.
- Mineral, basalt wool. A more perfect analogue of glass wool popular in the Soviet Union. Absolutely not combustible material. The critical disadvantage of mineral wool is the fibrous structure, which absorbs water like a sponge - at high humidity, the insulation gets wet, losing thermal insulation properties and promote the development of the fungus.
- Organic heater. An analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (linen, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic insulation is combustible.
Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in damp
Most suitable material for insulation of the garage, regardless of the material from which it is made, is a heater based on polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, due to the ease of installation, moisture resistance and reasonable price. Fibrous insulation is less preferred because of its structure, since it is far from always possible to maintain an optimal level of humidity in an unheated room. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton materials is categorically not recommended - their use is also appropriate, although not so preferable.
Important! If there is a stove, heater or other sources of heat in the garage, then the area of \u200b\u200btheir location must be insulated with mineral wool to prevent fire and the release of toxins due to excessive heat.
Material calculation
The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the quadrature of the insulated area - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. So you will get the quantity square meters that needs to be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its thermal insulation data.
Since the thermal insulation layer needs an outer shell, in addition to insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumable for the assembly and sheathing of the frame. To form the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are quite easy to install. The calculation of the footage of the carrier profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between load-bearing elements the frame should not exceed 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The footage of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room multiplied by 2.
For sheathing the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant drywall, which includes moisture-repellent impregnation and antifungal additives - an inexpensive, fire-resistant and easy-to-process material. Calculation required amount sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of insulating material.
Important! Focusing on the data obtained, one should be aware of possible unforeseen situations and purchase material with a small margin, which on average is about 10-15% of the initial amount.
Insulation of the walls in the garage from the inside
Frame installation
Installation of the frame is necessary for the subsequent installation of decorative trim, which will hide the insulation from prying eyes. During the installation process, you will need the following tools:
- Hammer drill;
- Screwdriver;
- Scissors for metal;
- Level;
Ready frame for drywall
All fasteners in the wall are pre-drilled with a perforator drill, then dowel-screws are inserted into the holes, which are screwed with a screwdriver. Metallic profile easy to cut with scissors for metal, in almost any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:
- First of all, guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor, into which the carrier profile will be inserted. They should be parallel to each other - first, the guide is mounted on the ceiling, and then, using a level or plumb line, the guide on the floor is adjusted. The indentation from the wall should allow the insulation to be placed so that it does not “push” the skin. A sealing tape must be placed between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a tighter connection.
Important! When fastening the profile, it is necessary to take into account the differences in the surface - it should not "lead" from excessive bending. Deep drops, especially if a dowel is clogged in them, must be smoothed out with stands, and the protruding parts must be removed.
- Before installing the supporting profiles, supporting brackets-suspensions are mounted on the wall, which stiffen the entire structure. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent to form a "P" shaped figure into which the supporting profile will be inserted. Suspensions are located along a strictly vertical line, which is measured by means of a plumb line or level. The step between the vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the larger the step, the weaker the structure.
Important! If necessary, you can choose the step between the guides arbitrarily, within the mentioned values, however, in this case, you will have to constantly adjust the drywall sheets, since their standard width is 140 cm.
- On suspensions, carrier profiles are inserted into the guides. Fixing in guides and suspensions is carried out by means of a screwdriver and small screws for metal. The common plane is adjusted by means of a rule, or along a fishing line stretched between the extreme profiles.
- Between the carriers, with a similar pitch, transverse frame elements are installed, which are made of a profile - they are necessary to strengthen the structure. As a locking connection, you can use single-level crab connectors or simply cut off the sides of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the supporting profile.
Attaching the profile to the hanger
Waterproofing
Fibrous insulation is very sensitive to moisture - in this case, waterproofing is indispensable. To avoid getting the cotton wool wet, it is necessary to create an airtight, waterproof layer between the wall and the insulation. For this purpose, a membrane film or any other flexible waterproof material is used. After the frame is fully assembled, it is fitted waterproofing material. The film should not be stretched, it should lie freely, fastening to the profile is carried out by means of brackets. The main thing is to create an airtight barrier for condensate - the overlap between the edges of the strips should be at least 10 cm. The junction is glued with adhesive tape.
Thinking about the need for waterproofing, one should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from a small amount of moisture that can seep from the outside. It is insurance against unforeseen situations, and not a panacea - if there is high humidity from the side of the walls, it is necessary to carry out complex work on external waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution to the problem.
Insulation installation
Wall insulation with foam
Before proceeding with the insulation, the walls must be cleaned of strongly protruding elements: fittings, metal fasteners, etc. If there are through cracks in the wall, then they must be covered with concrete or plaster mortar (sand 1: 2 cement based on the mass of the components) to remove drafts.
The installation process of the insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam with a block form factor can be mounted with glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with self-tapping dowels. Wall insulation with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out in the following order:
- The walls are cleaned of dust and primed with a special composition to improve adhesion (degree of "stickiness"). After the primer is completely dry, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation.
- The insulation is mounted from the bottom up, the sheets must be cut exactly under the opening between the supporting profiles. Adhesive composition applied to the surface of the insulation with a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very light, there is no need to additionally press or fix the block until the adhesive is completely cured.
- After the glue has set, the blocks can be additionally fixed with self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps or bolts if the garage is assembled from sheet iron.
Installation of mineral wool or its varieties is carried out by means of self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps, which fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The warming process is carried out as follows:
- Before installation, in the lower part of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or rail so that the wool does not touch the floor and does not absorb moisture.
- The insulation is cut so that the width of the strips exceeds the width of the opening between the supporting profiles by 1–2 cm.
- The mats are driven into the openings between the profiles, there should not be any gaps or voids. The insulation is fixed with dowel-screws with plastic caps or bolts, if the garage is made of sheet iron.
In this case, a design is meant in which the profile is pressed tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is large enough, then an integral thermal insulation coating, in which notches are cut for fastening the frame.
Sheathing the finished frame with drywall
Drywall sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The sheets must be positioned so that the edge falls exactly in the middle of the carrier profile.. The distance between the screws should not exceed 20 cm, while the hats must be sunk into the surface by about 1 mm. First of all, whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. Drywall cutting is carried out using a clerical knife - the sheet is cut deeply on one side, and then simply breaks in the opposite direction from the cut.
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Do-it-yourself gate insulation
Styrofoam door insulation
The iron gates of the garage let in not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes through and does not protect against frost. For door insulation inside it is necessary to assemble a frame for sheathing. It is most convenient to use wood as a material - a frame is assembled from a bar, reinforced with intermediate inserts. The beam is attached to the gate by means of metal screws.
Wooden frame assembly
Insulation sheets should preferably be glued to the door surface to avoid condensation on the metal surface. In connection with this circumstance, the use of foam or expanded polystyrene is more preferable. After installing the insulation, the frame is sheathed with plywood, tin, etc. In the event that the profile of the gate implies the presence of an internal cavity sufficient for installing a heater, then you can do without installing a frame. Since the sheet insulation has a low weight, if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and sheathing. In this case, you will have to be more careful when operating the gate, since unprotected thermal insulation will be easily damaged by careless action.
ceiling queue
Laying insulation on the ceiling of the garage
An uninsulated ceiling is the biggest gap in the thermal insulation of a room. Unlike walls, it is more expedient to insulate the ceiling from the attic side - the insulation will be more effective and there is no need to form a decorative sheathing that “eats up” usable space and finances. As a heater, it is better to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, although mineral wool in this case will also be quite appropriate.
The external insulation of the garage is not particularly difficult - waterproofing is laid on the surface of the attic and the insulation sheets are simply laid without cracks and voids. The thickness of the insulation material must be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense heat-insulating layer, without the so-called cold bridges - to fill the seams or hard-to-reach places mounting foam is used.
Floor
Expanded clay for floor insulation in the garage
If the floor is formed from monolithic concrete, it also intensively "sucks" the heat from the room. the only rational decision, in this case, is the backfill thermal insulation material(expanded clay) and the formation of a new concrete screed. Alternative insulation methods are inappropriate in this case, since the coating must support the weight of the car. Ideally, the thermal insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of the construction of the building, since in any other case it will either have to break the old coating or form thermal insulation on top of it, which implies raising the floor by 15 - 20 cm.
If the garage has already been built, then you will have to proceed from the already existing circumstances - the best option would be to completely break concrete screed to free up enough space for insulation backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old coating. Expanded clay, if possible, it is better to acquire heterogeneous (fine and medium) or medium fractions in order to reduce the likelihood of voids. To form a screed, you will need cement and sand. The order of work is as follows:
- A site is being prepared for filling the insulation. The insulation layer should be at least 10 cm thick, optimally about 20-30 cm. You should also take into account the layer of concrete screed, which is formed at least 5 cm thick. The site should be as flat as possible so that the backfill is uniform.
- A layer of waterproofing is laid on the ground or the old coating so that the expanded clay granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose, you can use various materials: from roofing material to dense polyethylene film.
- Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing in an even layer. To evenly distribute expanded clay, the surface is leveled with a rule or a long level.
- To strengthen the insulation granules, a fill is applied cement mortar- cement is mixed with water to a homogeneous substance, which should not be too liquid or thick. The resulting mixture is poured upper layer expanded clay so that the cement penetrates into the voids between the granules.
- After cement mixture completely dry, concrete screed is poured. The concrete mortar consists of cement and sand, in a ratio of 60/40 based on the mass of the components. In the manufacture of concrete mortar, it is easiest to focus on the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement shade. A rule is used to level the flooded area. The surface of the screed is smoothed with a spatula or small.
Important! In this case, Portland cement M400 is meant - the lower the grade, the more cement will be required and vice versa. But at the same time, one should not forget that the principle “the more the better” is inappropriate in this case, since an excess of cement will disrupt the structure of the screed.
Alignment of expanded clay by the rule
Since the area of the garage is basically the same large sizes, the formation of the screed is quite acceptable to carry out "by eye". But if you want to be perfect flat surface, then you need to install beacons. As beacons, you can use a profile, pipes and any other material with a smooth edge. Beacons are set by means of a level, thus limiting marks are created that indicate the level of a perfectly flat plane.
Installing beacons is quite simple - along the edges of the room, by means of a hydraulic level, extreme profiles are installed, then a fishing line is pulled between them, which determines the level of intermediate elements. The main thing is to firmly fix the beacons so that no displacement occurs during pouring. Concrete mortar with a small addition of alabaster is best suited for this purpose. Lighthouses need to be fixed pointwise, and not along the entire length.
Important! The addition of alabaster to the concrete mortar significantly reduces the period of its solidification - the count can go up to tens of seconds. Should not be diluted too much a large number of, otherwise you will not physically have time to work it out.
Cellar
If there is a cellar in the garage, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good thermal insulation of the room. Installation of insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main room, with the difference that the cellar ceiling is insulated from the inside.
Ceiling insulation procedure:
The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as for floor insulation in the garage. After the completion of work in the cellar, the level of humidity will rise greatly, so it is necessary to consider a high-quality ventilation system.
Garage insulation allows you to keep the positive temperature in the room without central heating. The only thing to remember is that you should not make the room completely airtight in order to prevent an increase in humidity. The garage must have ventilation to remove moisture from melted snow, rain and other things that the car will bring with it during bad weather.
Maintaining the right temperature in the garage is a guarantee long term car service and other tools, . In order to keep heat in such rooms as long as possible, it is necessary to properly insulate them, both outside and inside. Fortunately, today the insulation of the garage from the inside with your own hands has become quite a simple matter. Almost every car enthusiast can do it.
In our country, most garages are a metal structure that is very difficult to warm up. No matter how actively such a room is heated, its heat loss will be maximum. For such structures, it is necessary to carry out insulation work in the first place.
If we consider a concrete or brick garage, then in such cases it will be much easier to insulate the garage with your own hands, and the result will be many times higher.
It may seem to an inexperienced layman that the main purpose of carrying out heat-insulating work in garages is to increase the temperature to room temperature (+20 on average). But such an opinion can certainly be called erroneous. The temperature that is considered comfortable for a person is not suitable for equipment and a car. Sudden thermal changes, when the car drives from frost to heat, cause condensation to form. The moisture that appears settles on the details of the car, which is critical for it. Therefore, the experts concluded that the result of the insulation of the garage should be a temperature of +5 degrees. This indicator is considered as close as possible to the ideal conditions for storing a car.
Another misconception of car owners is that before they insulate the garage from the inside, they close up all the holes and crevices in it that air could penetrate from the outside. At first glance, this decision may seem correct, but it is only at first glance. In fact, quite a lot of harmful substances are produced in the garage during the arrival and parking of the car, which are considered dangerous to human health. The same substances are capable of releasing the materials themselves used for the thermal insulation of the garage. In addition, all the moisture that enters the room can only disappear through weathering. This state of affairs suggests that before insulating the garage with your own hands, it is necessary to build a decent ventilation system in it.
If we consider the question: “How to properly insulate a garage - from the outside or from the inside?”, Then the answer will be “Outside!”. The fact is that the insulation of the garage from the outside has a number of advantages over the internal insulation:
- It does not steal extra centimeters of usable area;
- It completely eliminates the risk of freezing of the premises;
- It is not fraught with the influence of harmful substances emitted by heaters in an enclosed space.
All these arguments speak in favor of the external insulation of garage premises, but do not forget about financial side this question - warming the walls of the garage from the inside will cost a little cheaper. However, in this situation, excessive savings will be unnecessary, since we are talking about human health. As mentioned above, before insulating the garage from the inside, ventilation must be done. The second important issue is the materials - they are also not worth saving.
Many people ask the question: "How to insulate the walls in the garage inexpensively?". The answer is simple: “It is cheap to insulate a garage, but is it worth it?”. The fact is that good thermal insulation material will cost more. In addition, when choosing a heater for a garage, it is imperative to pay attention to its characteristics, which must meet specific requirements. After all, all garage rooms are different and each of them may need its own type of thermal insulation.
Here is a list of the main materials used in our country for garage insulation:
This type of thermal insulation has been used effectively for a very long time. Mineral wool allows you to protect the room from the cold, while allowing it to breathe. For garage walls, it is best to use basalt wool, which has the best sound and heat insulation characteristics. The big disadvantage of this insulation material is the fear of moisture. Therefore, when using it, it is necessary to ensure good vapor barrier.
You can also insulate the walls of the garage with the help of this material. Its advantage is its low cost. But glass wool also has a number of disadvantages. These include: the need for maximum protection of the whole body (especially hands and face) during work, the fear of moisture (wet material is not suitable for use) and mandatory isolation.
Today, this material is considered the most popular for insulating houses and garages. The advantages of polystyrene include its relative cheapness, ease of use, resistance to moisture, decay. But he also has his drawbacks - poor breathability, flammability and fear of sunlight. That is why it is better to insulate the walls inside the garage with polystyrene foam, but only special self-extinguishing polystyrene foam must be used for this.
This type of insulation is a roll of foil, on one side of which polyurethane foam is applied. A huge advantage of reflective insulation is its thickness, which allows you to save space inside the room. However, high hopes for this type of insulation should not be placed - the principle of its operation is based on the reflection of heat in its mirror surface, and with induction and convection in the garage, this principle is not effective.
This type of insulation is a plaster with various impurities (expanded polystyrene grains, vermiculites and sawdust) that give it a heat-insulating effect. However, it is worth noting that it is advisable to use this type of insulation only in addition to other heat insulators, since its independent use is impractical. To get the desired effect, you need to apply a very thick layer of insulating plaster.
This type of thermal insulation is also based on the addition of additional substances to the paint composition, which make it possible to retain heat inside the room. Thermal insulation paint can be used on wood, metal and plastic surfaces. Therefore, this type of insulation is ideal for wooden garage, as it will allow the tree to breathe.
Floor insulation
If the garage has a cellar or basement, then in this situation floor insulation will be redundant. If there are no such premises, then any insulation will need to start with floor covering. Consider the three most popular ways of thermal insulation of the floor.
Floor insulation with expanded clay
- We remove the top layer of the earth to a depth of 45 cm.
- We lay out any waterproofing material (for example, roofing material) along the bottom of the formed pit in such a way that it finds another 10 cm on the walls.
- Using a cement or gypsum mortar, we install beacons, which will serve as a level.
- We fall asleep roofing material with expanded clay with a layer of 25-30 cm.
- We remove the beacons and fill the places of their stay with expanded clay.
- We lay on expanded clay reinforcing mesh 10x10cm.
- Installing new beacons.
- We fill the floor with concrete screed.
- Let the mortar dry and set (do not put pressure on the floor for at least a month).
Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under the screed
This type of thermal insulation will allow not to remove the top layer of the earth, but at the same time it will “steal” about 20 cm of height from the room.
- Thoroughly clean the floor from debris and dust (preferably with a vacuum cleaner).
- We cover the floor surface with any waterproofing material (roofing material or dense polyethylene).
- We lay foam plastic at least 10 cm thick and C-25 density on the waterproofing. Styrofoam plates should fit as tightly as possible to each other.
- We cover the foam with another layer of waterproofing.
- We place a reinforcing mesh on it.
- We make a concrete floor screed.
Floor insulation with polystyrene foam under a wooden floor
This method of insulation allows you to take away from the room only 10 cm of its height. For its use, you can use polystyrene foam of any density, but the boards should have a thickness of 5 cm. It is also necessary to stock up on a 5x5cm beam.
- Thoroughly clean the floor surface from debris and dust.
- We build logs from the beam, and between them we tightly lay the foam. The logs should be close to the wall.
- We lay a waterproofing material on top of the polystyrene foam.
- We cover the floor with a board.
Important! A grooved board is not suitable for such purposes - it needs a very rigid mount.
Wall insulation
There are several ways to insulate the walls of the garage - the choice will depend on the material from which the building was built. Insulation of a brick or concrete garage can be done using mineral or glass wool, polystyrene; for metal structures, polystyrene foam in slabs, foamed polyurethane foam or thermal insulation paint. Please note that you will most likely need to install .
Insulation of walls with foam plastic under plaster
- We clean the surface of the wall from old coatings.
- Align the walls with putty.
- We prime them.
- We nail a wooden plank to the wall, which will serve as a level.
- We apply special glue to the foam (10 cm) pointwise or over the entire surface.
- We press the polystyrene foam sheet against the wall and additionally fix it with several dowels.
- We cover the fixed foam with a thick layer (25-30mm) of glue.
- We drown the reinforcing mesh in the glue.
- We plaster the entire surface of the wall.
Insulation of walls with foam plastic for drywall, wall paneling
- We create on the wall a crate of timber or profiles with a step equal to the size of the foam sheet.
- We fix the crate to the wall and ceiling.
- We place foam sheets in the resulting windows and fix them with liquid nails.
- We seal all the cracks with foam.
- We sheathe the crate on the outside with drywall or clapboard.
Wall insulation with mineral wool
This technology is very similar to the previous one - we insulate the walls with the help of crates. The only difference is that mineral wool both sides must be carefully overlaid with waterproofing material.
Before you insulate the walls, it is also desirable to insulate the garage door. First you need to cut a gate in the gate - such a manipulation will help reduce heat loss in the absence of the need to leave the car. Then you can insulate the gate using the scheme used when insulating the walls:
We cover the gate from the inside with a layer of polyethylene;
We nail to them wooden frame(it is desirable to treat the frame with drying oil or any other antiseptic);
We fill the frame with heat-insulating material;
We sew up the foam plastic with clapboard or plywood (something light).
To enhance the effect of thermal insulation inside the garage, just outside the gate, you can hang a polyethylene tape curtain.
The last step on the way to complete thermal insulation of the garage is the process of warming its roof.
If the roof of the garage is made of wooden planks, then you can attach the insulation directly to it with the help of nails or dowels - "umbrellas".
If the ceiling is made of concrete floors, then it is advisable to use the wooden frame already mentioned above. It is desirable to fasten the frame to the roof with metal corners or self-tapping screws, and the foam to it with adhesive tape or glue. The finished structure must be sewn up with any kind of material - drywall, lining, plywood.
As you can see from the article, it is not so difficult to insulate the garage. The main thing is that the master has patience, a small supply of funds and the right tool.
15.06.2018
The garage protects the car from direct exposure to rain and snow. But this is not the only thing that affects the state of its mechanisms. Temperature fluctuations lead to condensation. And he, in turn, becomes the cause of rust, fungi and mold, accumulates in body cavities, damages the engine. Therefore, the task of the car owner is to reduce his education to a minimum.
Warm or insulate?
When the temperature in the garage is below zero, the condensate freezes. And when the engine warms up, it starts to melt. Freeze-thaw cycles do not benefit either the metal or the internal mechanisms.
But heating the room is not the best solution. Leaving a warm garage in the cold, we create a situation of a sharp temperature drop. And when returning back to the heated space, we get the formation of condensate even on those parts where moisture does not get when the car is moving.
Experts claim that Better conditions For winter storage autos are created when the thermometer shows + 5 ° С. The danger of corrosion under such conditions is minimal, and the temperature difference between the street and the room does not have such a detrimental effect on the car.
Accordingly, choosing between connecting to the heating system and insulating the garage with your own hands, it is wiser to stop at the second option. Moreover, it will help save on monthly energy bills.
Basic requirements for garage insulation
When insulating a place to store a car, it is worth remembering a number of key points.
- You can not close up the ventilation holes - any heat-insulated building also needs ventilation, as well as a heated one.
- Thermal protection should affect not only walls, but also Garage Doors, floors, roof.
- If there is a desire to do everything according to the rules, it would be useful to study the sixth section of SNiP 2.07.01–89. It regulates the requirements for the premises where vehicles are stored. Of course, when it comes to a personal garage, it is not necessary to comply with them. However, standards can help address a number of issues.
- For door insulation, in most cases, internal thermal protection is mounted.
How to insulate: inside or outside
The most desirable type of insulation is external. It protects the walls from freezing and allows them to accumulate heat.
Nevertheless, sometimes they resort to warming the garage from the inside. For example, when there is no indent between garage boxes or their walls are adjacent.
Overview of the materials market: choosing the best
The first thing to consider when choosing a heat insulator is the type of insulation you have chosen. For example, moisture-permeable materials, when wet, change their properties. Therefore they are not good option for external thermal protection. And for internal thermal insulation heaters that emit harmful substances in summer heat or domestic heating.
The modern market offers several types of garage insulation materials. Consider the main properties and characteristics of the most popular of them.
Mineral wool
Produced in the form of plates and rolls. It retains heat well and has soundproofing properties. But at the same time it easily absorbs moisture - high humidity main enemy cotton heaters. And when wet, it completely loses its ability to isolate heat. Therefore, its use requires high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. It is almost impossible to dry this insulation, it becomes brittle and easily damaged. And when wet during installation, glass wool clumps and becomes unsuitable for further use(cavities appear inside it).
Considering that the outer insulation cake can be damaged or depressurized, it is risky to use this material. In general, for vertical mounting, mineral wool is not the best choice. It has considerable weight and consists of fibers. Under their own weight, over the years, they can sag, and voids will form between them - the so-called cold bridges.
This heat insulator has two advantages: low price and the same low thermal conductivity. But that's all. Then only the disadvantages begin. Once in the lungs, glass particles are no longer excreted from the body. On the skin, they leave itching and irritation. During their installation, a protective suit, a respirator and a mask are required, and after completion of work, a thorough cleaning of the premises. Then a day or two will have to wait until the glass dust settles, not visible to the eye.
If during operation at least partial damage to the protective layer of films or foil material has occurred, you will again need to rent overalls and, after the repair is completed, resort to cleaning.
And finally, the material shrinks and does not differ in durability. Therefore, it does not matter which type of insulation you prefer: internal or external, it is better not to dwell on this option.
Styrofoam
This material is very popular due to its low cost and ease of installation. It retains heat well and lasts for decades. It can be mounted independently, without having at hand any special tools or special building skills. But ideal solution still don't name it. Although not as significant as mineral wool, it absorbs moisture. Very easily damaged and crumbled. Its granules have a low adhesive strength, so over the years they can fly out even with accidental pressure on the material.
But the main thing is not even that. There is a huge amount of uncertified foam on the market due to the high demand for it. Finding a high-quality and safe product for health is not an easy task. And the one that was produced in violation of technology, with an increase in temperature and exposure to sunlight, begins to release toxic substances. Given that the garage is closed space, this is fraught with serious health problems for the car owner.
PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam)
Perhaps, to insulate the garage from the inside with your own hands is best option. It is affordable, it is even easier to install than polystyrene - the joints do not need to be sealed with foam, because they have L-shaped grooves. It is easy to cut and can be glued directly to the wall.
But the most important, of course, is its ability to thermal insulation - one of the best among modern materials. And it remains the same in all situations. PENOPLEX does not get wet (moisture absorption coefficient is less than 0.4% in 28 days), is not afraid of defrosting-freezing cycles and lasts more than 50 years.
It is resistant to compression, does not shrink, absorbs noise, does not rot, insects do not start in it, and to top it all off, it is a homogeneous mass of polymer without separate granules. This provides him with high strength even after many years after the work carried out.
Summarizing all of the above, we conclude that this material is ideal for both external and internal insulation.
Reflective thermal insulation
It is a foil material, which in itself has rather modest heat-insulating characteristics and a small thickness. It reflects infrared radiation well, which means that it makes sense to use it only for heated rooms. If there is no heat source, there will be little benefit from it. Therefore, as a rule, it is used only as an additional means of thermal protection when using other materials. For example, PENOPLEX.
How to insulate a garage from the outside - step by step instructions
For external works it is most convenient to use rigid plates. The cheapest option is foam. PENOPLEX is more expensive, but much more effective in terms of moisture resistance, thermal protection, service life and strength. Therefore, we will consider the installation procedure for this particular material. However, it almost does not differ from foam insulation technology.
We will need:
- glue (best of all branded PENOPLEX, since its composition is specially adapted for this insulation and does not destroy it);
- spatula for applying glue or a special gun;
- painting knife or electric jigsaw for cutting sheets;
- fastening disc elements (4 pieces for each plate).
Step 1. Preparing the walls.
We clean them from old paint, dirt, dust, cobwebs and other things. You can walk with a primer so that the glue grabs better. But this is an optional moment.
Step 2 Attach the bottom bar.
It is typical for plates to start installation from the ground. We fix the starting profile on the dowels and proceed to laying the material in a checkerboard pattern.
Step 3 Heater fixture.
This is a simple matter: we apply glue in strips on the plate and apply it to the wall. We connect the L-shaped grooves to each other, due to this, a snug fit of the material without gaps is ensured. When the glue dries, for greater reliability, we fix the sheet with dish-shaped dowels.
Step 4 Final works.
To protect PENOPLEX from ultraviolet radiation and make the facade more aesthetic, we plaster the walls or cover them with siding, DSP, and other materials.
Technology: how to insulate a garage from the inside with your own hands
As you can see, even an unprepared person will cope with external insulation. However, interior work are also not particularly difficult.
Floor insulation
It can be made different ways. One of the simplest and most time-consuming options is PENOPLEX insulation under the screed. To do this, the floor will need to be slightly raised. This will reduce the height of the room, but you won’t have to dig a pit - you can mount a heat insulator on an existing floor. The order of work is simple.
1. We clean the surface, make cement-sand screed(DSP) or level the coating using building mixtures. It is important that the differences do not exceed 5 mm.
2. At the next stage, we lay PENOPLEX FOUNDATION® directly on the floor without the use of glue and dowels. You can put insulating material in one or more layers.
3. To distribute the upcoming point loads, it is necessary to pour concrete mortar or self-levelling compound 40 mm thick. At the same time, the insulation is insulated with a film, and its seams are securely fastened with adhesive tape. Between the wall and the screed, 1-2 cm of empty space is left to take into account the thermal expansion and further make sound insulation by filling it with foamed polyethylene.
4. A finishing floor is laid at the finish.
Thermal insulation of the ceiling when insulating the garage from the inside
The order of work is approximately the same as with the walls. Glue PENOPLEX® COMFORT sheets, fix with dowels, supplement with a vapor barrier film, crate, close finishing material, and the thermal protection is ready.
Warming the walls of the garage from the inside with your own hands
It can be done in the same way as for external walls, only using a vapor barrier film that is laid on top of the heat insulator.
Gate protection
Many are faced with the problem of seasonal “walking” of the pillars (the base of the gate), which is why they do not close. The best decision– when installing the gate, protect its base (pillars) from freezing. If you already have the usual iron gate, then they must also be thermally insulated from the inside. If it is possible to attach the sheets to the dowels to the material from which the gate is made, it is worth doing it. If not, normal will do. adhesive method. Already glued insulation is covered first with a vapor barrier film, then outer skin. To enhance thermal protection, foil polyethylene can be used.
Thus, the right choice of thermal insulation material makes the insulation of the garage a fairly simple process, which everyone can do.
