Project from Victor Traveller. The milling table is shown in the first photo, but in this article we will not talk about it, but about its component - the milling elevator - it is mounted under the tabletop
The elevator material is plywood with a piece of laminated chipboard, a hairpin, several nuts of the appropriate size, and several self-tapping screws.
A small box is assembled from pieces of plywood. A plywood “cube” is mounted in it with a nut pressed into it and cylinders (a piece of wire) protruding from it on both sides.
The driver is made from a piece of laminated chipboard, into the center of which a driving nut and a handle are pressed. 
Bottom view of the support mechanism. In it we also see a nut with a washer. 
Now let's move on to the router itself (Interskol FM 32/1900E). It is fixed on the tabletop as standard (for example, I did it). A kind of rocker arm is attached to the wall. It is fixed to one wall with a pair of corners. The rocker itself is represented by a pair of parallel bars connected to each other by a smooth jumper (a piece of laminated parquet) with recessed screws. 
Another view from the front. Pay attention to the recess between the “legs” of the rocker arm (under the lower nut of the elevator box). 
We lift the rocker arm (together with the head of the router) and place a lift under its legs, placing them on the protrusions of the “cube”. In this case, the width of the legs corresponds to the gap between inner surface boxes and outer cubes. 
That is, when the gate rotates, the cube does not rotate, but rises through rotation, raising the “yoke”. 
The advantage of this elevator is that it is moved beyond the plane of the router itself, closer to the user. (another closer photo) 
I'm thinking about making one myself.
Every craftsman who works with wood knows how inconvenient it is and how many unnecessary actions have to be performed to set the desired cutter height when working with a hand router, or to replace one cutter with another. To do this, you even have to remove the router from the table.
In order to significantly facilitate this task, a special device called a milling elevator was invented long ago, which is, in fact, the “third hand of the master” that helps regulate this process.
Currently on sale a large number of a wide variety of milling elevator models. The best elevators are made in the USA and are quite expensive.
Not long ago, in one of the woodworking magazines, the design of a homemade elevator designed for a hand router was shown. This design will allow you to quite accurately adjust the height of the cutter, and make it yourself for good master will not be difficult. Besides there is detailed photo With detailed description the entire process of producing such a model.
First of all, you need to make a disk 18 mm thick, on which the router will be attached. Now, using a Forstner drill with a diameter of 20 mm, we drill a recess with a depth of 13 mm in the center of the disk, then through hole with a diameter of 10 mm.
We install an M10 threaded rod into the hole we drilled and secure it with two nuts and washers. Select the length of the stud so that the vertical stroke of the router is about 5 cm. Just above the middle of the stud we install a flywheel for adjustment; for fastening we use a nut with a washer and a flange nut. We will attach the flange nut to the stud using epoxy glue.
Finally, install the plywood bottom into the table, positioning it about 75mm from the bottom ends of the legs, insert the flange nut into it and screw the bottom end of the stud into it. Now, when the flywheel rotates, the entire structure will rise or fall relative to the flange nut fixed in the bottom. If you use a standard M10 stud with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm, when turning the wheel one turn, the amount of movement of the router will be 1.5 mm, by half a turn - 0.75 mm, etc.
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Accessories for hand router
Lift for a router made from a clamp
If you regularly use a router installed in milling table, you know how difficult it is to adjust and adjust the height of the router bit in a router. There are milling elevators for lifting the router, but they are usually quite expensive. So I created a simple homemade router lift from available materials. This lift saves a ton of time and I find that all adjustments with a router are much easier to make effortlessly using a lift mounted under the router table.
To make the elevator I took steel pipe 3/4 in diameter? (nipple length will depend on the size of your router) then made a miter coupler and a second 3/4 nipple? connected to a flange (nipple length will also depend on the size of your router table) as shown in the drawing below.
Then I did wooden base to support the router. I drilled a 3/4? hole in the base. This hole allows the base to slide smoothly over the nipple. The clamp is screwed to the base and serves as an adjustment mechanism. I then installed the router lift under the router table (see photo).
To get maximum adjustment, be sure to set the router lift to its lowest position. The curved handle of the clamp makes it easy to adjust the router and move up and down the steel nipple. This makes it easy to adjust the router to any position you need.
Lift for a router from a spark plug key
The lift for the router is extremely important and useful device. This is a quick and convenient way to adjust the cutting height of the cutter.
Do-it-yourself elevator for a milling table: design and assembly
Correctly setting the cutting depth will not only create cutting accuracy, but will also simplify the adjustment of product joints.
I made the lift for the router from a regular spark plug wrench for a car and a nut of a suitable size. The nut must match external size spark plug wrench, and the inner diameter of the nut is the size of the bolt used.
Using nylon or other soft material, drive the nut into the bottom of the key. Handle on back side I made a spark plug wrench for ease of adjustment. A nylon retaining ring between the nut and the base of the router will help prevent spontaneous free rotation during operation.
This router lift can be used on various hand routers such as Hitachi, Festos, Mafells, Dewalt, as well as small Bosch models.
An essential requirement is that you need to consider the location of the bolt on the base of the hand router, its length and easy access during operation.
Note: The easiest way is to use a nut with a nylon insert inside the key.
Compiled by Patlakh V.V.
http://patlah.ru
© “Encyclopedia of Technologies and Methods” Patlakh V.V. 1993-2007
Make a lift for the router yourself, or buy a ready-made one? Let's answer this question.
When using a hand router installed in stationary table, two questions arise:
- How to adjust the depth of immersion (extension) of a cutter.
- How to quickly change replacement tips.
Unscrewing the tool from the plate every time is too troublesome. In addition, a statically mounted router works in the workpiece only at a fixed depth.
This problem is solved by installing a height-adjustable suspension on the router. And once you were able to make a full-fledged milling table, installing an elevator of your own design is not difficult at all. In addition, a self-made device is developed taking into account all the requirements of the master, even those that are not provided for by the factory device.
Why do you need a lift on the milling table, and is it possible to do without it?
This useful device called the third hand of the master. Those who have tried a milling cutter with a microlift are finding new applications for it:
- Maintaining a power tool is not difficult, as is quickly changing cutters.
- You can change the cutter reach height in a matter of seconds, and most importantly – safely.
- You can change the immersion depth “dynamically”, simultaneously with the movement of the workpiece on the table. This expands creativity.
- Due to the fact that you no longer regularly dismantle the tool for maintenance, the plate and its fasteners are subject to less wear.
Buy or make it yourself?
There is a wide choice of offers on the power tool market. Industrial microlifts look good and work without failures, but their cost is the same as that of a new router. True, the device is quite well equipped. The kit includes rings for the copy sleeves, and a very high quality mounting plate.
Industrial microlift for a router with a set of copy rings
All that remains is to electrify the device - and you can get a CNC machine. There is only one drawback, but it outweighs all the advantages - the price itself. Therefore, for periodic home use this is an unaffordable luxury. So our Kulibins make whatever they can. However, there is a lot to learn from them.
There are quite primitive lever-type designs
Homemade elevator design with a lever mechanism
This technique even allows the use of a “foot” drive. For precise settings it does not have a reach, but with the help of such a mechanism you can raise the router to the working position in one movement, and just as easily lower it to change the attachment or service. This elevator has a fairly long stroke; it does not allow for adjustable milling. Materials for manufacturing are literally lying underfoot, the cost tends to zero.
Using a Screw Adjuster
Another example of a homemade elevator for a router
The design is more advanced and allows relatively precise adjustment of the reach. However, using such a microlift is inconvenient; to rotate the handle, you need to crawl under the table, and then make a control measurement of the height of the cutter. But the reliability is high, and production does not require expensive materials. Such an elevator can be made “by eye” without using drawings.
The following flywheel design not only makes it possible to precisely adjust the reach in small increments within 50 mm, but is also quite convenient.
Lifting design with flywheel
It will take more time to make, but the result is worth it. The flywheel allows you to adjust the height of the cutter while simultaneously visually controlling it work surface. In principle, it is already possible to dynamically change the cutter offset.
The main advantage is the still low cost of components for manufacturing, with increased functionality. Instead of a flywheel, you can install a gear and a motor with a gearbox. But this will require additional costs.
Option with car jack
Quite expensive, since at a minimum you need to purchase a jack.
LIFT FOR MILLER. ANYONE. WITH EXPLOSION DIAGRAM using the example of festool 1400 (ROUTER LIFT)
Diamond-shaped designs are ideal.
Application screw jack as a lift for a router, also possible
This microlift lift is reliable, and thanks to the handle located parallel to the tabletop, it is convenient and quite accurate.
Positioning the mount is quite simple. It is enough to install a strong shelf parallel to the tabletop.
An electric drive option is available.
Then, in general, you can install a foot pedal and free both hands. And if you add a programmer to all this, here you have it. homemade router with CNC.
However, this goes beyond the concept of an economy class device.
Option from an advanced master
Since the possibilities of a craftsman are limitless, you can come across completely unexpected designs. This microlift is made using the very same router for which it is intended.
Original elevator design made by hand
The design involves not only precise adjustment of the reach, but also changing the angle of inclination of the router axis. With this potential, you can significantly expand your woodworking tasks.
Original drive solution worm gear studs – height regulator.
Gears (gears) are made using the tenon method " dovetail" This allows the gears to be moved outside the mechanism, eliminating the need for lubrication, and making adjustment smooth.
The material used is moisture-resistant plywood 20-25 mm thick. The microlift is executed with such high quality - that I would like to suggest that the author organize industrial production.
Of course, such a design requires a preliminary drawing.
Assembly drawing in 3D for a microlift
Moreover, it was made using a three-dimensional modeling program. Making such a device is painstaking work. And here financial side question - the cost of a sheet of plywood and a screw stud. When performing custom work, this design will quickly pay for itself.
The verdict on this topic is as follows: when using a homemade milling table, you cannot do without a microlift. Other designs like a quick release plate for a router or hinged lid tables are only suitable for servicing power tools. And for precise positioning of the cutter above the table, you need a microlift.
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To everyone who has manual frezer, sooner or later the idea comes to mind to make a table for him in order to turn him into a full-fledged stationary machine, with which you can implement all the functions contained in it. I too once had this thought. I will not dwell on the details of making the table; there is plenty of information on this topic on the Internet for every taste and budget. I would like to bring to your attention my version of a lift for raising and lowering the router relative to the table surface. The design is as low-cost as possible, you don’t need to buy anything, everything you need for manufacturing is available in every home workshop.
So, what do we need:
- wooden slats capable of supporting the weight of the router
-bolt with a diameter of 10-12 mm
Metal rod with a diameter of 5-7mm and a length of 100-120mm
-any kind of hinge (door hinge) according to the size of the slats
- old hand drill
The tools you will need are a tap, a die, an angle grinder, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, drills, etc.
First we will make a nut. Let's cut off the part from the bolt that doesn't have threads, and make the length to match the width of the rail. In the middle of this workpiece, on the side surface, we drill a hole slightly smaller in diameter than the size of the rod (taking into account the subsequent cutting of threads on the rod and in the hole).
We cut a thread along the entire length of the rod, and make a corresponding thread in the body of the workpiece cut off from the bolt. As a result, we got a homemade guide screw pair.
After this, we drill a hole in the rail for our homemade nut (the nut should move freely in the hole, but not dangle in it). Perpendicular to this hole, we drill another one, along the diameter of the rod (a little more is possible). At the other end of the rail we attach a suitable loop (hinge).
Now we insert our nut into the rail, screw a threaded rod into it, clamp the rod into the drill chuck, and fix the drill at the bottom of the table front side. We fix the other end of the rail with a hinge on the opposite side. As a result of all manipulations, a structure should be obtained that moves the router vertically when the drill handle is rotated. I don’t indicate any sizes, because... all this is fastened, as they say, “in place - as asked”
As illustrations, I provide photographs of how I did this. The dimensions can be any, I want to believe, the design principle is clear.
Thank you for your attention.
The milling lift that Victor Traveller uses in his, as I understand it, extreme table. So to speak, the newest model. The milling cutter uses the same long-suffering interskol FM32.
The most interesting aspect of this lift is the ability to adjust the position of the router without bending over or crawling under the table. This is done with an imbus key directly from the countertop.
The entire block together with the router can be easily dismantled and replaced with a circular saw. Let's take a closer look at the structure of this lift. 
The lift itself consists of two U-shaped halves that move relative to each other. One is fixedly fixed relative to the base of the router, the other is movable (it pushes the head of the router up) 
They are connected to each other (that is, a bolt with a hexagon head and a pin of the appropriate diameter) using a pair of nuts (main and locking). In this case, the hexagon bolt remains on top, flush with the table surface. By means of a wide nut, rotation is transmitted to the pin, from which, respectively, onto the mortise nut in the lower half of the slide, which, due to rotation, is pulled up. 
