How to install scaffolding for gable work. How to make scaffolding yourself. Clamp scaffolding: design features

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is not profitable to purchase them for home use; you can only rent them for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made from edged or unedged boards, and can also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to tie greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
Always install handrails with inside racks.
Apply front board(fencing near the deck).
The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
The pitch of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

For creating wooden structure scaffolding you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a brace.
We prepare required amount"envelopes".
Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

Install the handrail and front board.
If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Traditionally for installation scaffolding use metal or wood. Wooden structures are suitable only for one-time work. They have a simple structure, so anyone with basic woodworking skills can handle their assembly. Metal devices are reusable and dismountable; they can be reused on other objects. If you have the tools and knowledge of metal processing, it will be very easy to assemble scaffolding with your own hands.

Types of scaffolding

In addition to the type of material, scaffolding differs in functionality, fastening method and design. Based on these characteristics, structures are divided into several main groups.

Wedge

To connect the parts of the structure, a special wedge clamp is used. Such devices are very reliable, and, most importantly, durable. Their rigidity can withstand heavy weights and mechanical loads. Assembling wedge scaffolding with your own hands is very simple, and most importantly, after disassembling it is as easy to assemble as the first time. This design significantly speeds up and facilitates the work of lifting large loads and materials.

Frame

The basis of frame scaffolding is a rigid frame in the form of a frame. Similar devices are used in finishing and painting works. Horizontal and diagonal scaffolding elements are connected using knotted fasteners. The advantage of such forests is their low cost, they allow you to create convenient device without big expenses.

Details pin scaffolding fastened with metal pins. Such structures are most often used in ordinary construction work due to the fact that they are more convenient to assemble on site. The time for assembling pin scaffolding depends on the length of the object; as a rule, the process does not take more than a day.

Clamp

For buildings of unusual, complex structure, clamp scaffolding is used. The frame parts are connected in a specific way, which is very popular in professional construction. An important characteristic in the installation and construction of drawings of such scaffolding is the pitch between the posts and crossbars. This distance is chosen depending on the configuration of the building and its dimensions.

General structure of forests

Regardless of the type of connection of parts of the structure and its type, all scaffolding consists of similar elements, such as:

vertical ribs (racks);
diagonal stiffeners (make the entire structure strong)
horizontal cross members;
jumpers for flooring;
a boardwalk for workers to move around;
stops that give the device stability and prevent it from falling back and forth;
safety guard to protect workers from falling during work;
ladder for moving between rows.

The number and size of elements varies depending on the scale and complexity of the object. To facilitate the assembly of the scaffolding, you can draw a schematic drawing.

Plank forests

Perhaps many builders and professionals have their own tricks for assembling and designing scaffolding; there are also many similar instructions on the Internet. Most of the structures do not differ in anything except the size of the racks and the thickness of the flooring. To understand such instructions, you should be guided by several dimensions:

the step between the posts is 2-2.5 meters;
the average width of the flooring is 1-1.2 meters;
the structure should not be higher than 6 meters.

Compliance with these rules will create functional and safe forests. To construct scaffolding with your own hands, you will need:

boards for thrust structures and beams 5-10 cm wide, you can use square and round beams;
material for spacers and protective structure 3 cm thick;
boards for lintels and wooden flooring - 5 cm thick;
nails (it is not recommended to use self-tapping screws in such structures).

After preparing all the materials, you can begin assembly. First, 4 racks are fastened at a distance of 2-2.5 meters; to connect them, diagonal struts are used on all four sides. Then the lintel boards are mounted at the required level, and the flooring boards are attached to them. For protection, a fencing board is installed on the posts. The final stage- installation of supports and installation of stairs to reach the top of the scaffolding.

When assembling scaffolding from boards, it is worth considering the following nuances:

racks and supports are attached in parallel, their location is checked with a building level;
horizontal jumpers are used to attach the racks to each other;
Crossbars can be added to the protective railings for better protection.

To extend wooden scaffolding, several sections are used, and boards are used to fasten them together. Fastener boards are placed directly on the supports.

Advice! Often, when fastening with nails, wood cracks where the fasteners are immersed. To protect the boards from such damage, it is worth drilling grooves in the places where the nails will be driven in.

Metal profile scaffolding

Metal products are more convenient if you plan to build several projects. They can be disassembled at any convenient time and reassembled in a new place. To mount the simplest scaffolding with your own hands (height 150 cm, width 100 cm and length 165 cm), the following instructions will do:

When the work is completed, it is enough to remove the bolts and disassemble the scaffolding into frames. The service life of such a structure is tens of times longer than the service life of wooden scaffolding. And when proper care they can last for many years.

Pros and cons of different designs

Construction devices are convenient when creating an object, but after the work is completed, the issue of their storage is acute. Even when disassembled, the structure takes up a lot of space.

Wooden devices can be dismounted, but this is not easy, especially if the boards were fastened with nails. And even plank scaffolding needs to be stored somewhere. In addition, in the places where the nails are attached, after disassembly there remain small cracks and cracks that will promote rotting. Often solvent or paint remains on such structures.

Advice! If you still have dismountable metal scaffolding after construction, you can sell it at a good price or rent it out.

Scaffolding, assembled independently, are not suitable for working on large objects. As a rule, they are intended for buildings of 1-2 floors. Exploitation of forests at high altitudes is dangerous.

Such structures are used infrequently (for repairs or finishing of facades), therefore their installation is not always appropriate. Painting work can be completed without scaffolding.

Often scaffolding is made with a length of 6 meters, which increases its weight and cost. Such a structure will be problematic to move from place to place, and its disassembly and assembly will take a very long time.

Alternative to scaffolding

The assembly of scaffolding and its design should be thought through before building a house. If you will be hiring for finishing and repair work specialists, then you shouldn’t even think about how to make scaffolding. Typically, professional teams have a full range of equipment and tools, including scaffolding.

Often, when scaffolding is dismantled and after construction, scaffolding remains idle and is thrown away or sold. However, they may still be required for repairs or finishing works Oh. There are many other construction aids that can replace traditional scaffolding.

Before dismantling or renting out the scaffolding, you should make sure that the façade is in proper condition. Do not skimp on finishing work, otherwise you will have to restore the decorative layer. One of the most durable and easy to maintain facing materials considered a brick. Today you can find many varieties of this material, differing in colors, size and texture.

As a rule, others Decoration Materials(plaster, paint and paneling) will need frequent repairs, resulting in significant costs. To do this, you will have to hire a crew or rent scaffolding. If you have your own design from profile pipe for finishing work - you can save significantly on cosmetic repairs. To store such a structure, you can allocate a separate room or build a simple shed.

Difficult to perform without loess construction works, especially if they need to be produced at high altitudes. The design will help you safely climb to the top, do everything you need, and place materials nearby that will help you in your work. It is inconvenient to rent construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, since it will constantly drain funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, you can make loess yourself. They will be made in a way that is convenient for the owner and will provide the ability to rise to the desired height.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can make yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing; boards can be added to the structure. If you make everything out of wood, it will be much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand significant loads; there is a possibility of breakage with a large weight installed on them.

In terms of time, a metal frame will take longer to complete, but gradually the costs of its production will be covered by reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled and rebuilt. In addition to wooden ones, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamps. As a priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. Assembling such products is problematic, but there is an option to bend them as required.

2. Wedge. A significant amount of mass can be placed on them.

3. Pin. They are quite simple to assemble and disassemble. They will be used for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness and ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of base surface. They are most often used in construction because they are easy to make with your own hands.

Important:DIY construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended for two people to stand on them.

Making loess

Making loess from pipes is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to select the required elements, combine them into correct sequence. To make the work go faster, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and connect them into one structure.

Materials for making loess

To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made from boards. It can be made of aluminum, but it will withstand less load. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm; it is most convenient to make it about a meter wide. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In terms of height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.

Before you start assembling the structure, you need to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:

Profiles are 1.5 m long and 3x3 cm in cross section. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
Pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
Profile for connecting elements. The section is 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
Ladder. You can insert a ready-made one, but if not, you can also execute it from the profile.
Bolts, nuts and washers that will secure each element. Self-tapping screws to connect wooden parts with.

To work, you will need to use a drill, grinder or hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making necessary elements carving The earth at the installation site must be well compacted to avoid distortions during the manufacturing process. If work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The ground under the loess will be strong, and there will be no danger for people at heights.

It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of parts leads to a strong tilt of higher elements and construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably and efficiently.

Collection of loess

Construction scaffolding is assembled in the following order:

1. First, you need to cut the blanks: diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened to about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 racks located vertically are connected using spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.

3. The horizontal parts are connected using ties, at a distance of approximately 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are secured.

5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to paint the scaffolding so that it lasts longer. If you plan to frequently disassemble and reassemble the structure, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of 2.5x2.5 cm profile is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people wonder whether it is worth making scaffolding themselves. On the one hand, this design is bulky; you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but this will take a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not with self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work; they can be used for other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height will be at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.

When building your house, you cannot do without scaffolding. They are needed both when laying walls and when finishing them; they will come in handy when roofing work and installation of drainage. Reliability is the main requirement for scaffolding, because the safety of builders depends on it.

If possible, it is worth renting industrial scaffolding. But if the construction takes a long time, or finances are very limited, you can make scaffolding with your own hands. Their design is simple, because private construction rarely requires scaffolding more than two floors high.

Load heavily homemade scaffolding Still, it’s not worth it, the maximum number of people working for them is two.

Types of scaffolding and their features

Scaffolding can be entirely wooden or composed of metal pipes and boards. The former are cheaper and easier to assemble, but withstand less weight. The latter will require a lot of money and time to construct, but can be used longer, disassembled and rebuilt if necessary. There are 4 types of scaffolding depending on the design and fastenings used.

Clamps are the most difficult to assemble, but can have a variety of configurations, suitable for work on buildings with a wide variety of architecture.
Wedge scaffolding can support more weight.
Pin scaffolding is quickly disassembled and assembled.
Frame scaffolding is economical to construct and lightweight; it can withstand weights of up to 200 kg per square meter its surface. Maximum height – 50 m. Most suitable for self-assembly and use in individual construction.

Design features and materials

Frame scaffolding is constructed from steel posts and frames, and the flooring is made from wood. Aluminum structures have less weight, but can also withstand less load. Recommended parameters for one section:

height – 150 cm,
width – 100 cm,
length – 165-200 cm.

The number of sections depends on the height of the house and the length of its walls.

To work you need to stock up on materials. You will need:

profile with a square section 3*3 cm, length 150 cm for vertical posts,
pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for diagonal and horizontal struts,
profile with a square section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm for connecting inserts on which the decking will rest, and fences,
boards 4-5 cm thick and 2-2.5 m long for flooring,
for lifting (can be used ready-made, or can be assembled from a profile between the side posts).
Bolts with washers and nuts for connecting elements, self-tapping screws for fastening boards.

Tools you will need are a hacksaw or grinder, a drill with a metal drill bit, welding machine. Connections can also be made using special threaded fasteners.

We build scaffolding from pipes and boards

The preparatory stage before assembling the scaffolding is that the area of land where they will stand is well compacted. This way the whole structure will stand more securely. If construction work is carried out during rainy periods, drainage can be provided so that the ground under the scaffolding does not erode. Boards are placed at the locations of the supports for greater stability.

Important! Even slight play in connections or insufficiently tightened threads can lead to scaffolding destruction and injury.

First of all, the profile and pipes are cut. The pipe is cut into pieces of 200 cm for diagonal struts and 96 for horizontal struts, which will connect the sides. They are cut at 7-8 cm from the ends and flattened. In these places they will then be connected to the profile.

Vertical posts are connected with profile sections, making sure that they are positioned strictly horizontally. Then horizontal sections The scaffolds are connected with ties on which the boards will lie, welding them every 30 cm. Holes for bolts are drilled on the posts and spacers. Level the racks and attach spacers to them.

Adapters are used to connect several sections of scaffolding. You can make them yourself. Cut 8-10 cm of a profile with a cross-section of 3*3 cm, thread sections of the profile with a cross-section of 2.5*2.5 cm into it and connect them by welding.

Boards are laid on horizontal ties and secured with self-tapping screws. Scaffolding can be painted.

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - step-by-step instructions have been prepared for you.

The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional devices for working at height.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Standard wooden scaffolding

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of good quality edged boards. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and can also be combined - guides made of boards, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to connect the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe structure. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
For each node there are at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50–70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
Always install handrails on the inside of the rack.
Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
The pitch of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create a wooden scaffolding structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a brace.
We prepare the required number of “envelopes”.
Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

Install the handrail and front board.
If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. The most dangerous type of high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding