Wooden scaffolding for the installation of a greenhouse roof. Instructions for making scaffolding from pipes and boards with your own hands. Pin Type Collapsible Metal Scaffolding

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Are there any regulatory requirements for scaffolding used for laying walls and finishing facades? In this article we will get acquainted with the documents regulating their construction, and also find out how to properly assemble homemade wooden scaffolding.

Regulations

Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless occupational safety manuals; however, any serious attention to their design is given in only two documents:

GOST 24258-88 describes the use of scaffolding during construction;
SNiP 12-03-99 is dedicated to labor safety in construction; Scaffolding means are mentioned in section 7.4 of this document.

Let us clarify: the section is devoted not only to scaffolding, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization equipment and auxiliary devices in general.

Let's dive deeper into the requirements.

GOST 24258-88

First of all, GOST standardizes the design load on scaffolding depending on its type and the height of the site above ground level.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. Scaffolding “goats” are usually called low portable tables which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of species scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
Railings (protect workers from falling).
Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Scaffolding made of metal are several times more expensive than wooden ones, but have no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

Scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps (high precision when working with metal is a very important factor);
horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in its racks it is necessary to make holes for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).

If you decide to build a house, you can easily make scaffolding with your own hands. This design may be based on wood. Before starting work, it is important to know that the equipment will include support posts, lintels, decking, ladders, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. You should prefer wooden scaffolding; it will be much easier to make them yourself than metal ones. However, such scaffolding is not intended for significant loads. Afterwards the structure can be disassembled and used individual elements for another purpose. However, reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of assembling wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, you will need to follow some rules. The design must be convenient to use, which is why a minimum distance of 2 m should be provided between the racks, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you must be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When making scaffolding with your own hands, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, you cannot do without a square beam with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards; you need to select or purchase those that are 30 millimeters thick. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to take measurements. It’s good if the master has it in stock Circular Saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber that is free of cracks. If you prefer raw wood, it will significantly make the structure heavier. Among other things, the structure may become deformed after drying. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Working on the frame

If you are making scaffolding with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to work on the frame, in which case four pieces of timber will be used, which need to be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which is four meters long. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed with inside support beams. Smaller workpieces are strengthened along the upper edge, while larger ones are installed along the lower edge. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal struts.

Frame installation

If you make scaffolding yourself, then the next step is to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The pitch between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the upper edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are positioned in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. The finished scaffolding should take the shape of a pyramid, and its side parts should be positioned strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make your own scaffolding from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the top bars, which are located across. It is better to fix them according to the width of the frame. The elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional transversely located elements should be fixed, which can be conveniently used as a ladder.

An alternative option for manufacturing scaffolding

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one you developed yourself. For work, you should prepare lumber of different sections and sizes. For example, horizontal flooring should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Fence slats may have this parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you plan not only to build a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise making the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with the repair work.

Conclusion

It is advisable to make the load-bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm, reinforced, since elements of a smaller cross-section reduce the strength of such a structure. When making scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum acceptable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure toppling over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up on electric tools, otherwise the work will take quite a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, you can use self-tapping screws. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with your own hands, then safety is the most important requirement. This is due to the fact that such structures can be quite impressive in height, and falling from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber; you should purchase only high-quality and well-dried wood. Only by following these rules will it be possible to achieve an excellent result, which assumes the strength and reliability of the scaffolding. Such structures can be used even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subject to negative external influences.

Many works during the construction, maintenance and repair of private houses have to be carried out at heights. Scaffolding, which is easy to purchase, can make the process of carrying out such activities easier and safer. finished form or assemble it yourself. Such structures are made independently from profile pipes or from wooden elements according to fairly simple schemes.

Basic elements of wood and metal scaffolding

Scaffolding (SC) is an auxiliary support structure. They are used for installing wall siding and roofing, lining gables, installing gutters, decorating the facades of private houses, and performing other activities. Do-it-yourself scaffolding is made from wood or metal. Regardless of the material used, they consist of the following basic elements:

Vertical racks. These parts absorb the load from the structure and transfer it to the ground.
Jumpers. Parts of the structure used for installing the decking. Jumpers are installed on the sides of the scaffolding.
Ties. There are horizontal and diagonal. They are necessary to give the SL frame maximum spatial rigidity.
Railing. They are the simplest fencing that protects a person performing construction work from falling from a height.
Flooring. A structure made of boards knocked together. The flooring serves as a working platform.
Stairs. Allow construction workers to climb onto and off scaffolding.
Persistent cuts. An important element of a structure that protects it from tipping over.

Wood scaffolding is easier to assemble. They are light in weight. Their parts are attached to each other with self-tapping screws or nails. But wooden structures are not suitable for heavy loads. Dismantling such scaffolding takes a long time. They can subsequently be assembled several more times to perform high-altitude work. But the strength of re-assembled structures is reduced, since holes from hardware remain in the beams and boards.

SL from a profile pipe is much more reliable. They are quickly disassembled and then quickly assembled, maintaining their initially high strength characteristics. If necessary, they can be increased additional elements.

Types of structures and their operational characteristics

All scaffolding is divided into several types depending on the design and the fasteners used for their assembly. There are the following types of structures described:

Frame.
Pin.
Wedges.
Hanging.
Clamps.

Frame structures are strong and durable in use. They are made from metal parts with low weight (for example, aluminum pipes). Such scaffolding has several vertical frames, which are reinforced with spacers. They are often equipped with wheels to quickly move the structure along the surface being processed (house walls, pediments).

Pin scaffolding is clumsy and heavy. They are considered the most stable and durable. Collected from metal pipes, connected into a single structure by nested locking elements and welding (with its help, curved pieces of reinforcing rods are welded to the structure). Pin SLs are recommended for making brick (stone) masonry, as they can easily withstand the heavy weight of the materials used.

Wedge scaffolding is mobile and quite durable. They combine the advantages of pin and frame structures. This is achieved through the use of special fasteners-holders, which are special flanges with slots. Wedge SL are optimal for the installation of complex facades and their maintenance.

Suspended structures, called cradles by home craftsmen, are used to decorate walls with tiles and other types of facing materials, for washing façade windows. They are not very functional, which cannot be said about clamp structures. The latter are recognized by experts as universal structures. Making clamp scaffolding is not at all easy. But with their help it will be possible to process (decorate, repair) buildings of the most complex and unusual configuration. Such structures, if necessary, easily change their shape vertically and horizontally.

Reliable wooden structure - how to make it yourself?

Frame wooden scaffolding is assembled from boards with a section of 10x5, 3–5 cm thick and timber 10x10 cm. The tools required are a circular saw, a drill and a hammer. Nails (screws) are used to fasten structural parts. Marking work is carried out with a tape measure and building level. Boards 3 cm thick are intended for creating stiffeners, 5 cm - for constructing flooring. The scaffolding drawing is developed taking into account the following requirements:

The maximum height of the structure is 600 cm, length – 400.
The minimum width of the flooring is 100 cm.
The distance between the support posts of the structure is 200–250 cm.

For the construction of scaffolding, well-dried wood is taken. It is not allowed to have cracks or other defects. All wooden elements treated with solutions that prevent the development of mold and rot. Work begins with the manufacture of frames. Four beams are cut according to the planned height of the SL. The resulting blanks are placed on a flat piece of land. Two beams, 360 and 400 cm long, are attached to the support beams (from the inside). The second ones are fixed along the lower edge of the supports, the first ones - along the upper edge. The result is two trapezoidal frames. They are reinforced with spacers. The latter are installed diagonally.

The frames are lifted from the ground, placed vertically, and connected (temporarily) with sidewalls. The distance between the upper edges of the support posts is taken to be 100 cm, between the lower edges – 115 cm. The level checks the accuracy of the horizontal installation of the sidewalls. The made frame is connected into one whole with self-tapping screws or nails. It is preferable to use nails as fasteners. They are made of soft metal, which, under heavy load, does not break, but bends. Self-tapping screws are made from hardened steel, which is characterized by increased fragility. If the scaffolding is exposed to variable or significant shock loads, such fasteners will break. This leads to the SL falling apart.

The flooring is made from boards. They are attached to the transverse upper bars. The boards are installed without gaps - the tighter they lie, the more reliable the structure will be. Additional crossbars are installed on the sides of the structure. These lintels give the structure additional rigidity and serve as stairs.

Metal scaffolding – how many years are they designed for?

Structures made from profile pipes consist of 2–4 sections 160–200 long, 100 wide and 150 cm high. The specific number of the latter depends on the height and length of the house. Sections are made with aluminum or steel racks. In cases where scaffolding begins to bear serious loads, it is better to build them from steel. To assemble a metal structure, you need a welding unit, an electric drill, a level, an angle grinder, and fasteners (bolts and screws). The scaffolding flooring is made from edged boards (recommended thickness - 4 cm). Supports, cross members, adapters and other parts of the structure are made from round and profile pipes with a cross section of 1.5, 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm.

Spacers are cut from 1.5-centimeter diameter products. Diagonal parts are made 200 cm long, horizontal parts – 96 cm. Cuts are made at the ends of the pipes (two meters long). Their length is 6 cm. After this, the tubular products are flattened in the places of the cuts. The operation is performed to facilitate the connection of load-bearing pillars and struts.

Pipes with a cross section of 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm are cut into lengths of 8 and 30 cm, respectively. Adapters are made from the resulting blanks - special elements for increasing the height of the SL. Sections of shorter length are put on longer ones and welded together.

With the help of spacers and vertical racks two frames are created. They are not difficult to make - you should weld spacers to the posts every 0.3 m of the length of the latter. The result is products that are visually similar to stairs.

Plates measuring 7x7 cm are welded to the lower ends of the supports. They are cut from sheet steel. The plates will not allow the massive structure to fall into the ground under its own weight and the weight of the people working on it. If necessary, wooden blocks are additionally placed under these plates during the use of scaffolding.

Welded frames are placed vertically. The attachment points of the diagonal struts are determined. Holes are made in the marked places with an electric drill. Bolts are screwed into them. All parts of the scaffolding are connected. After this, be sure to check the horizontality of the crossbars using a level. If there is a distortion, parts of the SL are adjusted. exploit homemade design with non-horizontal crossbars is prohibited due to its low stability.

Making decking and painting pipe structures

The flooring of metal scaffolding is made of boards. They are laid across or along the section. In the first case, wooden blanks are fixed to pipes that are installed on the sides of the scaffolding (fastening is done with bolts). In the longitudinal direction, it is allowed to lay boards longer than 200 cm. They are bunched together into one flooring (without gaps) and reinforced against deflection with transverse bars. The latter are mounted at the bottom of the boards.

A U-shaped metal profile is mounted at the ends of the flooring. Its width is 1.7–2 cm. The profile is cut to the size of the flooring and fixed to the latter with self-tapping screws. This design eliminates the possibility of the boards shifting.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes is used repeatedly. They can be easily disassembled and assembled as needed. To extend their service life, it is recommended to paint SL. Painting is carried out according to a simple scheme:

all scaffolding elements are thoroughly sanded;
metal surfaces are dust free;
the pipes are primed.

After the soil has dried, painting is done. It is advisable to apply a layer of paint to the board flooring, having previously treated the wood with an antiseptic composition.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photos, videos. During construction, renovation work and maintenance of a private home, you sometimes have to work at heights. Using regular ladder It is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to build scaffolding yourself.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need are nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone’s home, and if something is missing, you can buy it the right tool it won't cost a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, and welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to weld seams correctly. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases scaffolding is made of wood.

Materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but its production requires the use of high quality wood with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go on the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to stack two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. They lay a board on the posts, and then stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak spots, it will crack or even break. If it survives, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen based on the structure, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that for flooring and racks, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used, and for jib boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Such boards can also be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction work, if you can avoid damaging it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debate about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at heights and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are cases where it has broken. But we were talking about “black” screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you're really concerned about durability, it's best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the joint without losses and quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each connection. To ensure that the wood is not damaged in the future, you can place cuttings of thin boards under the nails, and over a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you can split them and remove the nails easily.

Design features

For various types The work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration In a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick will require full-fledged scaffolding. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolding

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not fastened. They are held in place by a stop. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter “L”, but they are turned in different directions.

In the first picture, reliable and simple design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from timber. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can support a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although you wouldn’t be able to tell at first glance. But still this has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. These are attractive ones that are required minimal amount building materials, and can be assembled/disassembled/transported in a few minutes. The main thing is to make the triangles, and installation at the desired height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, use a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffolding to the required height using it. The crossbar on top should be 0.8 to 1 meter long, and the flooring boards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the larger, the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Triangles are installed for every meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on the upper part of the triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes, at least 5*4 cm). When installing the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, additionally secured and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be secured with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if you have one, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow the thrust boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional stop. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby relieve part of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It must be made from wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest vibrations under your feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if heavy materials are not intended to be used. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. Cross beams will not allow the structure to fold on its side, but there is a possibility that without securing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitudes. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Construction trestles

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - make identical trestles onto which you can place a certain step crossbars that will serve as both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Flooring boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and the height will need to be changed all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction trestles are the best option.

Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This great option when painting, caulking and preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When constructing a stone house, or a building made from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures because it is more expensive. The second decisive point is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be used, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to care for a log house, for example, which means they will definitely be needed once every 2-3 years. In this plan metal structure It will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work you are going to do will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but they are not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes you will have to additionally weld the pipes.