Scaffolding construction tubular drawings. Do-it-yourself scaffolding - how to make it from pipes and wood? Wedge construction mobile scaffolding

When building, finishing, repairing low-rise buildings, you can confidently perform work at the top only on scaffolding, which is quite realistic to do with your own hands from wood.

Buy metal constructions it is unprofitable for the owners, because they are expensive, and are not used so often.

Homemade scaffolding can be made from material available in stock at household plots. If this is not in sufficient quantity, you can buy boards and beams, and after construction is completed, use them for other needs.

Scaffolding materials

It is important that wooden blanks are dry, durable, so the presence of knots, cracks, and other defects on them is unacceptable. If possible, it is advisable to buy materials from spruce, there are usually more flaws on pine. In principle, you can use any durable wood, the reliability of which must be checked before construction.

To do this, bricks, cinder blocks, large stones of a suitable shape are placed on two low supports.

You should put a board with a thickness of 30 mm, stand on top of it and jump several times. This should be done by a person with good reaction and coordination in order to land safely on the ground in case of failure. If the board passes the test, it can be used to assemble scaffolding.

To build a building structure with your own hands, you will also need bars with a square section and a side length of 100 mm, a tape measure, a circular saw will help a lot.

Self-tapping screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are quite understandable. Nails are easy to hammer in and provide strength to scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The inconvenience lies in the fact that the building structure is almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this regard, they can be unscrewed without damage wooden surfaces, but they are very fragile. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break when struck or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger, they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works on the site with his own hands and the wood is needed in the most complete form, you can use anodized self-tapping screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Design Options

You can make wooden scaffolding with your own hands different types, the choice of a particular option depends on the specifics of the upcoming work.

Scaffold

If you plan to finish the house with light materials, then scaffolding is quite enough, the manufacture of which requires less material and time. Two types of attached structures are known, the scheme of each resembles the letter G.

The location of the construction scaffolds varies:

in one case, the short horizontal part of the letter G rests against the wall, and its vertical part is slightly sunk into the ground under the working load;
in scaffolds of the second type, the vertical part of the letter G rests against the wall. All the weight is concentrated on the thrust elements, the upper part of which is driven into a corner - the junction of the two main bars.

The construction is often called Armenian scaffolding, and the vertical part in them can be shortened, then the scaffolding takes the form of a triangle, against the base of which the board rests. All the load is concentrated on it.

Despite the fact that the scaffolds seem not very reliable, in practice their strength and ease of use have been repeatedly proven. Triangular scaffolds should be located every meter, if possible, they are nailed to the wall, if there is none, then they are fixed with stops. For safety net, the place where the stubborn bars are immersed in the ground is additionally beaten with wedges.

To ensure that the scaffolds do not move sideways along the wall, the stops are additionally sewn together with bars, which increases the rigidity of the structure. All thrust bars, boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm; boards also with a thickness of at least 50 mm are placed on the flooring. The horizontal surface is nailed or fixed with self-tapping screws, otherwise it is dangerous to move along them.

Construction goats

Wooden scaffolding with interesting name known to everyone, because they are often used both at construction sites and in overhaul apartments. The convenience of construction goats lies in the fact that they do not rest on the wall, they allow for sheathing with siding and many other facing materials.

Standing on top of the trestle, you can mount both the top and bottom of the panels, then move the structure and continue working on the adjacent section of the wall. Between the racks of such wooden scaffolding they fill the crossbars, they strengthen the structure, at the same time they perform the function of a ladder. Racks on one side can be fixed strictly vertically, which will allow you to put portable scaffolding close to the wall.

Complete scaffolding

The structure of traditional wooden scaffolding has not changed over the years. It is well known to everyone from the films of the Soviet years and posters, on which charming girls, standing on the scaffolding, smiled life-affirmingly at the enthusiastically working young men.

To make such scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a lot of lumber, the advantage of the design is that it can withstand a large load, and allows you to carry out work of any degree of complexity.

Before you start collecting scaffolding, you should stock up in advance with boards 50 mm thick, bars for crossbars up to 1 m long. At the first stage, racks are made of long bars or boards connected by crossbars. Scaffolding will be especially stable if the racks are placed at an angle, and not strictly vertical.

Depending on the future load on the flooring, the thickness of the boards on it, the racks are placed at a distance of 1.5 to 2.5 m from each other and strengthened with jibs. The number of crossbars and jibs is never superfluous, the more there are, the more stable the scaffolding will be.

Note! If the height of the structure exceeds 3 m, then the vertical beams of the racks are supported by additional braces resting on the ground.

Lastly, on the bars located along the perimeter of the racks from above, lay the flooring from the boards, which are carefully inspected the day before. The surface is laid in such a way that no cracks, gaps at the joints are formed, a canvas is obtained, similar to the floor in wooden huts. On such a floor, workers can confidently focus on their immediate duties without fear of failing. At high altitude, it is easier to work if there are railings; they must be made of durable material without cracks or other defects.

It is quite possible to make full-fledged construction goats from lumber with your own hands in a short time if you have work skills and a minimum set of tools, preferably with electrical system nutrition.

Features of metal scaffolding

If there is no great desire to make wooden scaffolding with your own hands, you can purchase a finished metal structure. The costs, of course, will be noticeable, but such scaffolding can be used for construction work of any degree of complexity with heavy loads on supports and flooring.

Metal scaffolding is convenient in that it can be disassembled with your own hands at the end of construction, folded into utility room and then use when conducting repair work in future.

The industry produces metal structures of several types:

pin;
collar;
frame;
wedge.

In pin scaffolding, loops in the form of pins are welded onto uprights, and the crossbars end with hooks designed for connection. Assembly is simple and quick, it is convenient to work on such scaffolding with buildings of standard shapes, if you have to finish ledges, curly bay windows, it is better to choose a different base.

Scaffolding with a height of not more than 40 m is produced from metal pipes, which are fixed with special clamps. Assembly can be done by hand, if necessary, such scaffolding can be easily transferred to a new location. It is not recommended to work with very heavy loads on them, because clamp fasteners have load limits.

Often, metal scaffolding is produced in the form of modules from frames, which are welded from pipes and strengthened with jibs. The design can be extended and increased in height with the help of additional modules. One section usually has a height of 2 m, a length of one and a half to 3 m, the depth of the horizontal part is usually 1 m.

Metal wedge scaffolds have more complex joints, consisting of perforated discs welded to vertical posts, and pipes with special locks that resemble the jaws of predators. The lock is wound on the disk, a wedge is inserted into the through coinciding hole. Scaffolding can be easily assembled and disassembled with your own hands, moved where you need it, it is convenient to perform any work on them.

Choose a view scaffolding should be done carefully, taking into account the specifics of the work ahead, the workload and financial capabilities. You can purchase lumber and make the structure completely with your own hands or buy finished metal products that you only have to assemble.

Sooner or later, construction comes to finishing the facade. And here there is a need to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, you need to “hem” the gables, and mount the siding, and paint the elements of the facade, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to put up scaffolding or a tower-tour. But industrial building construction expensive, and the price of a tower tour with working height at 8-10 meters it bites strongly. You can rent them, but if the work stretches over time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of members of the forum suggests that it is economically feasible to build metal structures only if there is “free” iron. If you buy metal, fasteners, deal with welding work, then such structures will eventually cost more than factory and, especially, wooden ones.

If the scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into "business", then the metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility block. Experienced builders will say that well-made scaffolding or tower can then be rented out. But few of the private developers will want to mess with this. Therefore, most members of the forum still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their manufacture.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is better to build from high-quality lumber. Quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after its use, can be used in a new construction site.

Scaffolding for the house with their own hands.

How to make scaffolding from planks

Before proceeding with home-made wooden structures, it is necessary to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for filing gables, sheathing with siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering, etc.), a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

Length - 5 m;
Width - 1 m;
Height (thickness) - 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 running meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat FORUMHOUSE member

They are called "scaffolding - an envelope."

Do-it-yourself scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as the basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - a support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of the most important elements of such structures are the jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed from the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed to each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The power load is carried by a retaining board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - with a pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then the attached scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be spoiled, then they lean against the wall, and the retaining board bears the main load.

When choosing the size of the "envelopes" should adhere to the following requirements. If the platform is too narrow, then it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the separation of the “envelope” from the wall is not excluded. The optimal size of the site is 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that they do not require a lot of lumber for their manufacture.

Buryat FORUMHOUSE member

The retaining board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests against the corner between the wall and the blind area, which is attached at the other end to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at first glance at such designs you doubt their reliability - it's scary to look at! Let's turn to practical experience users of our site.

Zark FORUMHOUSE Member

We call such forests "Armenian". When I first saw such a design, I was surprised - how does it hold up at all. I tried it, climbed onto the floor - quite reliably. He himself used the attached scaffolding more than once both on a wooden and on a brick house. They are comfortable, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian construction scaffolding.

Drosha FORUMHOUSE member

Forests of this type are quite safe. There is no need to fasten the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with screws to the supports (I didn’t knock it down with nails, so that I could quickly disassemble it later).

How to erect scaffolding for heavy work

But such "Armenian" scaffolds are not suitable for all work - mainly for light ones. They are good as scaffolding for house painting etc. For "heavy" work that requires working with tools, mortars, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more robust design should be used.

The build is done like this:

A six-meter board (150/200x50) is taken and placed vertically against the wall;
Parallel to it, a second board is placed;
Between themselves, they are fixed with horizontal bars. Further, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional bracing boards that rest against the ground;
As necessary, scaffolding is increased in height by fixing additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

Wooden scaffolding with their own hands.

diews FORUMHOUSE Member

They made these woods last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They put up only one wall, and then they moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How best to make scaffolding: graise against self-tapping screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of the members of the forum were divided: some believe that it can be assembled on self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only on nails.

The main argument of the opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. Self-tapping screw does not work well under shock load and shear. The result - the hat flies off, the structure loses its strength, up to self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for sheathing a house.

Igor Kokhanov FORUMHOUSE member

I recommend fixing everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bending of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no screws! I will tell you such a case. Familiar builders did the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result - the structures dispersed, all four flew from a five-meter height. The result - one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second is a severe leg injury. But they still got off lightly, if the height were greater, everything could have ended much more deplorably.

That's why it happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load, it bends, but does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little, and then break. Moreover, the so-called "black" self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, hexagon head bolts (under the washer) with a diameter of 8 mm or more and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been hammered into nails, and part of a good board will have to be thrown out or used for rough work. And the structural elements from shear will be kept by a large friction force that occurs between the boards, if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to compromise - use self-tapping screws to collect scaffolding "on black". In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding, they can be quickly dismantled and rebuilt. And only then, in addition, everything should be hammered together with nails.

Any construction of a house or facade work is not complete without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Of course, wood scaffolding is easier to manufacture. For the durability of the structure and to enhance its strength, metal is chosen.

It all depends on the task and the required wear resistance of specific scaffolding. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjoining structures, forests are created 2.5 meters high and 1 m wide. It is better not to build a structure above 6 meters, because an increase in the height of the structure reduces its stability.

The standard design involves the use of the following components:

Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Beam for racks and stops measuring 10x10 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).

Spacers are made between the legs to give strength to the structure. The racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between the levels of scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams mounted on racks, or a ladder is used.

Metal structures are mounted from steel or aluminum pipes. This requires the following materials:

welding machine

Pipes 15 mm. cut into 2 meters, and their ends are flattened.

From 30 mm. pipes make segments of 0.75 m in size (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.

The structural components are fastened together by welding or bolts. Jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build the next one.

Safety during construction works must be above all, so do not try to assemble and disassemble scaffolding more than two or three times. From reusable assemblies, they lose strength.

Before starting work, always check the strength of the assembly.

The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to build or finish buildings with a height of more than two floors.

The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they got the name of scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be renovated and are different types. Consider the most common types of scaffolding.

Wooden scaffolding

The tree has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to build scaffolding for finishing and repair work taking place at a low height. Usually this type of scaffolding is used for private houses or low buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to perform, we present the technology of their manufacture.

For the construction of wooden scaffolding, you will need boards 150x50 mm half a meter long, pieces of thin boards 25x100 mm, two long fifty-fifty boards for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.

First, triangular supports for the scaffolds are knocked together from scraps of the fifties, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on the following factors: the support should not move away from the wall under the weight of the builder and its own weight, and there should also be enough space for a standing worker on the platform. In this regard, usually the length of the scaffolds is chosen 400-500 mm, and the feet of the worker should not sag beyond the flooring.

The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.

In this case, the upper end of the support is cut so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and the lower part is sharpened for fixing in the ground. After that, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is attached to the wall with nails, without hammering them to the very hats, because later, after the work is completed, they will need to be removed. Then they put a ladder and begin to nail the flooring boards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven all the way.

Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.

metal scaffolding

They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. Modular types include suspended, wedge, clamp and modular (system) scaffolding. Among frame scaffolding, pin, flag and tower tours are distinguished.

All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such an attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not exceed four meters, and then, provided that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.

Consider the main types of metal scaffolding.

Flag (frame) scaffolding

Such structures can withstand loads up to 200 kg / sq.

meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the sidewalls to each other and shoes for resting on the ground. The dimensions of such scaffolding may vary depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.

Such scaffolding is easy to assemble and inexpensive, so they are very common. The fasteners of the frame scaffold are inserted into the holes specially designed for this purpose and are fixed by turning. IN vertical plane the parts are connected by inserting the frame into the groove below the element located.

tower tour

These scaffolds withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.

meter. Such structures are often used for the repair and decoration of individual sections of building facades. Since it is quite expensive to build scaffolding around the entire building, and it takes a lot of time to assemble and disassemble them back, they use a tour tower.

It is a design of their finished frames with a ladder, wheels are attached to its base. If frames with a height of more than 4 meters are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower are displayed at 2/3 of the maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such tour towers can be from 4 to 21 meters high and differ in the number of tiers.

Pin scaffolding

Used with a maximum load of 200 kg/sq.

meter. The horizontal elements of their construction are fastened with pins, which are inserted into hollow tube-eyes on vertical racks. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the rack supports are inserted into the shoes.

For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted to a height of up to 40 meters, and are most often used for masonry work. Such scaffolding is made of steel tubes with a large wall thickness, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.

Wedge scaffolding

Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg / sq.

meter have more complex structure than the options above. Their elements are fixed with steel wedges hammered in. This increases the strength of scaffolding, because they are used under heavy loads.

The special shape of the wedge prevents wedging. 8-hole rack flange locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at a height of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.

Clamp scaffolding

They have a standard load of 200-250 kg / sq. meter.

All elements are connected on clamps (swivel or deaf), into which crossbars and racks are inserted, followed by fixing with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but at the same time such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of up to 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements such as arches and domes.

Which type of scaffolding to choose depends primarily on the purpose of their use. So, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolding is used, and for construction and finishing work at low height, frame scaffolding is used.

Evaluate how it's made:

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables which can accommodate up to two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will talk about how to make scaffolding strong and stable with our own hands, saving a lot of money on renting them.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain the same elements for their intended purpose:

Vertical racks (perceive the work load and transfer it to the ground). Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame). Jumpers (short side scaffolding elements on which the flooring is laid). Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders) .Stubborn slopes (prevent scaffolding from tipping over).Rails (protect workers from falling).Stairs (used to ascend and descend from work platforms).

The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but has no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands

Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be marked on it.

There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.

It has been established by ergonomics that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - a bar with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Spacers, ties and railings can be made from a “thirty” edged board. For flooring and lintels on which it will lie, you will need boards 4-5 cm thick.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding.

Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures, self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:

on a flat platform, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding; racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid; and horizontal screeds; flooring from boards is placed on horizontal jumpers and fixed; scaffolding is fixed on two side slopes-stops; railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving. Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to wood.

The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the “number of storeys” of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters for diagonal screeds). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long. Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting diagonal ties to each other and fastening them to frame racks. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations: scaffold racks are rigidly fixed to the assembly shield (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks; adapters are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm from pipe scraps and fix them by welding; having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly shield, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the shield with clamps; bolts; tightening two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes; the ties are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts; holes for bolted connections are drilled on the racks and railings; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections; assembled structure they are placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes; flooring from the “forty” board is laid on the side jumpers. one sidewall of the scaffolding, and horizontal on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly. structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolding in length). Video

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a deliberate approach, materials, tools and fixtures. It is to the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to Finishing work at high altitude.

Scaffolding allows at a height of 4 to 10 meters to carry out the following work:

sew gables,
make siding,
install a drain and so on.

In fact, finishing work is more than enough. Moreover, scaffolding can be made above 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to make it with your own hands in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risks. Therefore, their strength should not be in doubt.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Not only that, you have to pay a lot for shipping. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing a material

Basically, there are only two alternatives. You can make scaffolding with your own hands from metal or wood. And each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them by hand is not so easy. Moreover, it requires special equipment and materials, which most likely will have to be bought. But at the same time, this type of construction has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to make the most complex work at a great height.

Advice ! After you finish the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. In extreme cases, they can be untwisted and put in the garage.

Based on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase is quite costly. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs have to pay off.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is quite simple. In addition, after use, they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, this is a one-time building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding that you can make with your own hands is several times inferior to a metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. Moreover, on each suburban area suitable materials can be found. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done soundly, then this design can be used. That is why it is so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to maintain, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Now, more and more often in non-building forums, you can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have mass important benefits in front of the wooden metal products. But to make them not in industrial conditions is not yet possible.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, then you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This simplest design, which you can do with your own hands in just a day. To end up with a solid and reliable structure, just follow these instructions:

Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
Place a second plank in parallel.
Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
Lay the flooring.
To provide increased rigidity, take bracing boards. Use the ground as a stop.
Build up level after level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that need to be taken care of. Otherwise, the design may not stand for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the design. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between the risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the deck is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance when constructing scaffolding is what fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Take, for example, self-tapping screws. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so clear. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their hat just pops off. Naturally, this can lead to the complete destruction of the structure.

That's why the best option in order to make scaffolding with your own hands, it will be nails. And it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the brittleness of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. That is why under heavy loads they often break. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It can bend but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable merits, nails are not perfect. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it will not be possible to disassemble the structure neatly. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Poet experienced builders all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands are recommended to fasten the basic version with self-tapping screws, and fix the final one with nails.

We make scaffolding from metal with our own hands

First, one important clarification needs to be made. In this option, the main structure is made of metal, and the flooring is made of wood. This is the best combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively with metal scaffolding.

Aluminum can be used as the metal for the frame. It is light in weight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too large loads and this must be taken into account. It is best that each span has the following parameters:

width - 100 cm;
height - 150 cm;
length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will ensure the necessary stability for the building created by one's own hands.

When creating a metal structure, you need to properly prepare, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

square profile,
pipes for spacers,
profile for connecting inserts,
floor boards,
ladder,
connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; in order to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

hacksaw for metal,
drill,
Bulgarian,
welding machine.

With the help of this toolkit, you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself construction of scaffolding begins with tamping the ground where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it does not hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is necessary element if the facade decoration will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must put the boards with your own hands. This will provide more stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the fact that the scaffolding will collapse, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to do protective covering. Enough anti-corrosion fluid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material that you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be made under conditions industrial production. The simplest option is a wooden structure.

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, a summer house or a country cottage, then do not rush to give money for ready product. In our material we will share the best instructions how to make a design yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the most general sense, scaffolding is a frame device created from constituent parts and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to protect the activities of workers who are working on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Types of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made from metal and wood. And now let's see what modifications there are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are indispensable when using massive materials and knots. So, you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant plus is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. Based on the name, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Frame. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest in a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with diagonal and horizontal racks with nodal fasteners. The cost will not hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at objects of increased importance. Produced according to the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

jumpers for flooring;
spacers;
enclosing element;
stops;
plank flooring;
racks;
ladder (ladder).

2. Do-it-yourself rules for mounting wooden and metal scaffolding

The first step begins with a well-designed drawing. Listen to the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the racks is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of jumpers for the initial flooring is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one, mounting on a hill from 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third one, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards involves the following materials:

boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or timber with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed for processing persistent braces and racks;
edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, screeds and spacers;
screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling high scaffolding, and the latter are at a break and for compact products.

Step #1 Four racks are cut along the height of the scaffolding. On a site cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step no 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step no 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen the screeds (horizontal and diagonal).

Step no 4. We prepare a strong flooring from the bars. Then we securely mount it on horizontal jumpers.

Step no 5. The turn comes with direct manipulations with forests. They are connected on two side cuts-stops.

Step No 6. And only after that the railing and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Profile pipe products: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of scaffolding is assembled in a similar way. However, consider some nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

Bolts with nuts and washers (in the amount of ten pieces). They are very easy to fasten the diagonal ties and then fix to the racks of the scaffold base.
Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25×25 mm or 35×35 mm. Provide an additional copy for the installation of railings. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
For thrust bearings, buy four plates. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10×10 cm.
For racks and jumpers, take eight segments: equally 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
Diagonal ties must be formed from four segments (the optimal length is about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get to work

The first thing they start with assembling scaffolding with their own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure rack to OSB sheet, which is the assembly shield. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
Next, we securely attach the jumpers (horizontal) to the racks, and only then we fix the adapters (from parts of the pipes) to the upper ends of the racks (the optimum indent is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
After finished device(tandem of jumpers with racks) is previously detached from the assembly shield for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as correct handling thin-walled pipes (for diagonal stretch marks). For our purposes, we beat off their ends and middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get spans for bolts.
Very carefully (in the center) we screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
We join the racks with couplers with nuts and bolts.
Now let's deal with the railings and racks separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
Thrust bearings (plates) are fastened with pieces of pipes. To do this, we use a welding machine.
On final stage the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
We make a high-quality and solid flooring from an ordinary edged board, which is placed above the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "magpie" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decides to assemble scaffolding on their own should know about:

If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey this logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent racks.
When you attach the ties, then follow the alternation: on the scaffolding, they are mounted on different sidewalls.
Not always, but during major repairs or large-scale construction, you may be faced with the need to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you can not do without a profile pipe of persistent cutting, which serves for the stability of scaffolding. Your action: create holes in the racks.
Metal corners (3 * 3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted on the area of contact contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves dismantling the structure from top to bottom in the reverse order of installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations it is necessary:

inspect the scaffolding for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc.;
fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
make sure that the tools are in working order;
a safety belt is required when the design long time has not been used and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of product are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Special attention pay fasteners to the wall, which are disassembled according to a similar principle: remove the fastening hooks that are located above the manipulated tier. Masters advise when dismounting almost all scaffolding (except for the collar variety), the components of the tier should be removed and put on the ground.

So let's get started.

First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fastening devices above the flooring of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
Secondly, we move on to the flooring shield. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one under consideration.
Thirdly, staircases remove the railing, then the racks. And further - boards of platforms and stairs. And finally, the turn of the tier frame comes: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
The wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are rubbed with a special compound.

Throughout the process, you can not do without ropes and blocks - reliable lifting devices. The elements received after dismantling must be inspected and packed in order to store or transport scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of mounting scaffolding, it's time to put into practice the knowledge gained. And if you seriously think about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.