Make your own metal scaffolding. Scaffolding. Selecting the type of scaffolding

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Before you start building scaffolding, you need to decide what material it will be made from, and what type of scaffolding (more precisely, the method of fastening) you actually need.

Today there are two materials from which you can make scaffolding with your own hands. It is either wood or metal. Accordingly, finished structures can be either metal or wood. But if we consider the methods of fastening the elements of these scaffoldings, then there will be more varieties. This:

Frame scaffolding. They are in demand when carrying out plastering work.
Wedge scaffolding is indispensable when working with heavy loads, and they can be easily disassembled.
Clamp scaffolding - used when working on objects with complex configurations.
Pin scaffolding. This variety is especially popular because such scaffolding is quickly assembled and disassembled.

Having decided on the varieties, you can move on to the question of whether it is worth building even the simplest scaffolding with your own hands, or whether you should still entrust this task to masters of their craft. In the case where your solution is clearly economical, you can look detailed photos and video ideas on how to quickly and efficiently assemble scaffolding yourself. By the way, there you will find a hint on how to store them later, or dismantle this structure until the next use.

Scaffolding drawings

In general, you need to understand that when assembling scaffolding with your own hands, drawings can significantly simplify the task. Acting according to existing scheme, you will quickly cope with the installation. The only thing you need to understand is that any forest consists of elements such as:

main racks;
horizontal and diagonal struts necessary for structural strength;
floor lintels;
board flooring (support) on which a person must stand;
reliable stops;
mandatory fencing to avoid falling from a height;
stepladder for lifting to the desired height.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to master and assemble scaffolding with your own hands. But is this really advisable? Indeed, in most cases, these structures are not some kind of trestle-platforms, but serious structures designed to perform heavy work at a certain height.

Scaffolding assembly instructions

In this case, scaffolding involves the use wooden materials, since few people would think of dacha conditions engage in the assembly of metal scaffolding, unless they are ready-to-assemble elements of small size.

And wooden scaffolding made by yourself can be useful only for work at a level not exceeding the second floor and mainly for carrying out facade repair work. Their use in more difficult conditions and under heavy loads may not only be impossible, but also dangerous. However, so that you do not get confused in the assembly steps, we suggest that you use the assembly instructions for the simplest design.

First of all, you should remember the approximate values. Namely:

The distance between the posts should not exceed two to two and a half meters.
The width of the flooring for work must be at least a meter.
The total height of the structure should be no more than six meters.

And now - let's get to work! In order to begin assembly, you need to prepare everything in advance necessary materials. These will be:

Boards with a thickness of at least fifty millimeters and a width of at least one hundred mm. You can replace them with 10x10 timber or round timber for stops and racks.
Boards for fencing and spacers. Their thickness should be at least thirty millimeters.
Boards for flooring and lintels - 50 mm thick.
Nails. But don’t try to replace them with self-tapping screws - they are not reliable comrades in this matter.

1. Observing all the distances that were indicated a little above, fasten the four posts on all four sides using the existing diagonal spacers.

When building your house without scaffolding not enough. They are needed both when laying walls and when finishing them; they will come in handy when roofing works and installation of drainage. Reliability is the main requirement for scaffolding, because the safety of builders depends on it.

If possible, it is worth renting industrial scaffolding. But if the construction takes a long time, or finances are very limited, you can make scaffolding with your own hands. Their design is simple, because private construction rarely requires scaffolding more than two floors high.

Load heavily homemade scaffolding Still, it’s not worth it, the maximum number of people working for them is two.

Types of scaffolding and their features

Scaffolding can be entirely wooden or composed of metal pipes and boards. The former are cheaper and easier to assemble, but withstand less weight. The latter will require a lot of money and time to construct, but can be used longer, disassembled and rebuilt if necessary. There are 4 types of scaffolding depending on the design and fastenings used.

Clamps are the most difficult to assemble, but can have a variety of configurations, suitable for work on buildings with a wide variety of architecture.
Wedge scaffolding can support more weight.
Pin scaffolding is quickly disassembled and assembled.
Frame scaffolding is economical to construct and lightweight; it can withstand weights of up to 200 kg per square meter its surface. Maximum height – 50 m. Most suitable for self-assembly and use in individual construction.

Design features and materials

Frame scaffolding is constructed from steel posts and frames, and the flooring is made from wood. Aluminum structures have less weight, but can also withstand less load. Recommended parameters for one section:

height – 150 cm,
width – 100 cm,
length – 165-200 cm.

The number of sections depends on the height of the house and the length of its walls.

To work you need to stock up on materials. You will need:

profile with a square section 3*3 cm, length 150 cm for vertical posts,
pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for diagonal and horizontal struts,
profile with a square section of 2.5 * 2.5 cm for connecting inserts on which the decking will rest, and fences,
boards 4-5 cm thick and 2-2.5 m long for flooring,
for lifting (can be used ready-made, or can be assembled from a profile between the side posts).
Bolts with washers and nuts for connecting elements, self-tapping screws for fastening boards.

Tools you will need are a hacksaw or grinder, a drill with a metal drill bit, welding machine. Connections can also be made using special threaded fasteners.

We build scaffolding from pipes and boards

The preparatory stage before assembling the scaffolding is that the area of land where they will stand is well compacted. This way the whole structure will stand more securely. If construction work is carried out during rainy periods, drainage can be provided so that the ground under the scaffolding does not erode. Boards are placed at the locations of the supports for greater stability.

Important! Even slight play in connections or insufficiently tightened threads can lead to scaffolding destruction and injury.

First of all, the profile and pipes are cut. The pipe is cut into pieces of 200 cm for diagonal struts and 96 for horizontal struts, which will connect the sides. They are cut at 7-8 cm from the ends and flattened. In these places they will then be connected to the profile.

Vertical posts are connected with profile sections, making sure that they are positioned strictly horizontally. Then horizontal sections The scaffolds are connected with ties on which the boards will lie, welding them every 30 cm. Holes for bolts are drilled on the posts and spacers. Level the racks and attach spacers to them.

Adapters are used to connect several sections of scaffolding. You can make them yourself. Cut 8-10 cm of a profile with a cross-section of 3*3 cm, thread sections of the profile with a cross-section of 2.5*2.5 cm into it and connect them by welding.

Boards are laid on horizontal ties and secured with self-tapping screws. Scaffolding can be painted.

At construction work outside and inside premises (if they have high ceilings) scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to make drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repairs

Scaffolding is used very widely in construction and repair. Even ordinary DIY wall plaster without them it is not easy to carry out, and installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together trestle stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement of everything you need along the facade or wall being repaired. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit of scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be included in the column “payment for the speed and convenience of repairs.”

Any scaffolding structure must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and Supplies. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a ready-made, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such goods is quite diverse.

Classification of scaffolding

The term “scaffolding” itself is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter “shelves” were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to descendants only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are made taking into account reusable. Structurally, scaffolding can be made in the following options:

Pin scaffolding – from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. They are heavy and clumsy, requiring considerable time to assemble and move - but at the same time very durable. For example, stone or brickwork It’s best to do it with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with a large number of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a durable frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony siding– when the weight of building materials is small, and the work involves rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are still mobile. The fastening units are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
Clamp scaffolding – universal designs small load capacity for repair and restoration of curved facades;
Suspended - well-known “cradles”, with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. A structure can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds without support from the ground.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only available for purchase; their independent “production” is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, can be assembled with your own hands if you have the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step-by-step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material– the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are completely doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

The work will require several types of wood. The load-bearing supports are made of timber measuring 10x10 cm (a smaller cross-section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from the scaffolding). Horizontal decking is made from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm thick. Fence slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms must be free of knots and cracks, and it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Planning the Frame

The end sides of wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not be an obstacle when repairing walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports made of 10x10 cm timber as solid rather than composite ones - then the strength of the multi-story structure will be higher. The minimum permissible width of homemade wooden scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a high risk of the scaffold overturning during work. To work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Frame Construction

Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are placed side by side in exactly the same way. The upper part of the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom a convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.

The timber sidewalls are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted with inside. At all, wooden scaffolding self-made can have no more than three “assembly floors”, so there will be only four sidewalls made of timber. Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the bottom one serves for strength; it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a volumetric frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (or better yet, two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side cross members are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required convergence angle is small, otherwise an inconvenient gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Let's say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be sufficient.

Having installed the wooden sides vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side cross members with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and stored in a shed or garage.

Step 5: Final and Additional

All that remains is to nail the decking boards and fencing above each platform to the cross beams. On the sides of the scaffolding you can add additional crossbars that will serve as ladders. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching the scaffolding to earthen soil- on flat surfaces it is removed, and the entire structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

If you decide to build a house, you can easily make scaffolding with your own hands. This design may be based on wood. Before starting work, it is important to know that the equipment will include support posts, lintels, decking, ladders, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. You should prefer wooden scaffolding; it will be much easier to make them yourself than metal ones. However, such scaffolding is not intended for significant loads. Afterwards the structure can be disassembled and used individual elements for another purpose. However, reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of assembling wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, you will need to follow some rules. The design must be convenient to use, which is why a minimum distance of 2 m should be provided between the racks, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you must be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When making scaffolding with your own hands, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, you cannot do without a square beam with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards; you need to select or purchase those that are 30 millimeters thick. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to take measurements. It’s good if the master has it in stock Circular Saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber that is free of cracks. If you prefer raw wood, it will significantly make the structure heavier. Among other things, the structure may become deformed after drying. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Working on the frame

If you are making scaffolding with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to work on the frame, in which case four pieces of timber will be used, which need to be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which is four meters long. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed to the inside of the support beams. Smaller workpieces are strengthened along the upper edge, while larger ones are installed along the lower edge. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal struts.

Frame installation

If you make scaffolding yourself, then the next step is to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The pitch between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the upper edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are positioned in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. The finished scaffolding should take the shape of a pyramid, and its side parts should be positioned strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make your own scaffolding from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the top bars, which are located across. It is better to fix them according to the width of the frame. The elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional transversely located elements should be fixed, which can be conveniently used as a ladder.

An alternative option for manufacturing scaffolding

Scaffolding with your own hands from wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one you developed yourself. For work, you should prepare lumber of different sections and sizes. For example, horizontal flooring should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Fence slats may have this parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you plan not only to build a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise making the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with the repair work.

Conclusion

It is advisable to make the load-bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm, reinforced, since elements of a smaller cross-section reduce the strength of such a structure. When making scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum acceptable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure toppling over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up on electric tools, otherwise the work will take quite a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, you can use self-tapping screws. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with your own hands, then safety is the most important requirement. This is due to the fact that such structures can be quite impressive in height, and falling from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber; you should purchase only high-quality and well-dried wood. Only by following these rules will it be possible to achieve an excellent result, which assumes the strength and reliability of the scaffolding. Such structures can be used even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subject to negative external influences.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photos, videos. During construction, renovation work and maintenance of a private home, you sometimes have to work at heights. Using regular ladder It is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to build scaffolding yourself.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need are nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone’s home, and if something is missing, you can buy it the right tool it won't cost a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to weld seams correctly. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases scaffolding is made of wood.

Materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but its production requires the use of high quality wood with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go on the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to stack two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. They lay a board on the posts, and then stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak spots, it will crack or even break. If it survives, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen based on the structure, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that for flooring and racks, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used, and for jib boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Such boards can also be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction sites. work, if you can avoid damaging it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debate about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at heights and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are cases where it has broken. But we were talking about “black” screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you're really concerned about durability, it's best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the joint without losses and quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each connection. To ensure that the wood is not damaged in the future, you can place cuttings of thin boards under the nails, and over a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you can split them and remove the nails easily.

Design features

For various types The work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration In a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick will require full-fledged scaffolding. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolding

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not fastened. They are held in place by a stop. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter “L”, but they are turned in different directions.

In the first picture, reliable and simple design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from timber. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can support a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although you wouldn’t be able to tell at first glance. But still this has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. These are attractive ones that are required minimal amount building materials, and can be assembled/disassembled/transported in a few minutes. The main thing is to make the triangles, and installation at the desired height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, use a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffolding to the required height using it. The crossbar on top should be 0.8 to 1 meter long, and the flooring boards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the larger, the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Triangles are installed for every meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on the upper part of the triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes, at least 5*4 cm). When installing the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, additionally secured and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be secured with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if you have one, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow the thrust boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional stop. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby relieve part of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It must be made from wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest vibrations under your feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if heavy materials are not intended to be used. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. Cross beams will not allow the structure to fold on its side, but there is a possibility that without securing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitudes. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Construction trestles

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - make identical trestles onto which you can place a certain step crossbars that will serve as both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Flooring boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and the height will need to be changed all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction trestles are the best option.

Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This great option when painting, caulking and preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When constructing a stone house, or a building made from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures because it is more expensive. The second decisive point is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be used, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to care for a log house, for example, which means they will definitely be needed once every 2-3 years. In this plan metal structure It will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work you are going to do will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but they are not good only for a rectangular shape, and to bypass complex shapes you will have to additionally weld the pipes.