High gooseberry productivity is closely related to competent organization autumn care and preparation for winter. the main task gardener – help the crop survive frosts and create conditions for good fruiting next season.

Basic principles of autumn gooseberry care

Most gooseberry varieties are planted in the fall. During the same period, pruning, preventive treatment against pests, and planting of cuttings or layering are carried out.

Autumn care picking gooseberries starts with peeling trunk circle from weeds, old mulch and leaves.

Many novice gardeners mistakenly believe that after harvesting there is no need to carry out any manipulations. However, they are very wrong. Autumn crop care is very important . Indeed, in the case of such “forgetfulness”, the yield of amber berries will steadily decrease every subsequent year.

Before the first frost begins, the following types of work must be performed:

• cleaning weeds around bushes;
• removing dry leaves and old mulch and then burning it;
• treatment against insect pests;
• digging up the soil directly under the plantings;
• pruning shoots and dry branches;
• feeding;
• autumn watering;
• mulching the root zone.

Gooseberries under a crust of ice.

If all the above procedures are carried out correctly, next year you can safely count on a rich and high-quality harvest.

Digging and loosening

After removing dry leaves and weeds, you should think about digging up the soil.

You can loosen the soil under the gooseberry bush to a depth of 5–8 cm.

It is better to carry out this operation together with the feeding stage . Digging the soil should be done with caution, especially in the root zone, since there is a high risk of damage to the root system of the plant. In general, weeding and loosening are carried out throughout the spring-summer season. It must be remembered that flowers or flowers cannot be planted under bushes. lawn grass, use when killing weeds by special means– herbicides.

Digging is necessary not only for applying fertilizers or saturating the soil with oxygen - it good preventative measure control of insect pests that have gone for the winter. Work with soil is often carried out during the period of the first frosts, when subzero temperatures guarantee the death of most pests.

Top dressing

Fertilizing can be carried out both during the digging process and separately.

It is more convenient to combine the application of dry fertilizers with loosening the soil surface.

Before the winter season, this stage is designed to replenish the plant’s nutrient reserves. Best choice there will be potassium and phosphorus complex fertilizers. They are entered according to the scheme 30\20\100 in relation to superphosphate\potassium sulfate\ash . This quantity is calculated for 1 bush. Fertilizer can be introduced into the soil, both in dry and liquid form.

For fertilizing, you can use “mash” from such a compost bath.

In addition, peat significantly enriches the soil, positively affecting future gooseberry yields.

Pest treatment

In autumn, it is also necessary to carry out preventive treatment against diseases and insect pests. The following have proven themselves to be effective:

• inkstone;
• 1–3% Bordeaux mixture solution;
• 5% solution baking soda(to combat powdery mildew);
• oxychloride (prevention of septoria and goblet rust);
• infusion of ash (to combat anthracnose).

To protect against moths and aphids, infusions of onion peel, potato tops or garlic help well.

Mulching

It is necessary to mulch the soil not only when rare visits are expected summer cottage, and the owners do not have the opportunity to constantly care for the crop.

Mulching a gooseberry bush with plant material.

In addition to being able to retain moisture and discourage weed growth, organic mulch material can increase the nutrition of a plant's root system. Aged compost or peat - An excellent choice for the knowledgeable gardener.

Autumn mulching carries with it additional function– protection from approaching frosts. The materials most often used are:

• straw manure;
• peat;
• matured compost;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• crushed pine bark.

The thickness of the “shelter” is, as a rule, 10–12 cm.

Watering

Late autumn watering - milestone, which for some reason many summer residents miss.

Moisture-charging watering for gooseberries is especially necessary if the autumn was dry.

The lack of moisture will affect, first of all, young shoots, and hence the future productivity of the crop.

The gooseberry root system is powerful and goes deep underground. In order for the farthest and longest roots to receive water, the berry must be shed well. Water consumption is approximately 28–30 liters per bush.

The timing of late autumn watering depends on the region. In the southern regions, it is held at the end of September, in the northern regions a little earlier, but most importantly, a month before the onset of the first frost.

pruning

Scheme of formative pruning of gooseberries.

Pruning in the fall is needed to rejuvenate and improve the health of the bush. It should be carried out annually according to the following scheme:

• In the fall, after planting, each pagon is cut off by approximately 30% .
• Next year a sample is taken 4-5 strongest young branches , the rest are cut off. The remaining branches are also shortened by a third.
• In subsequent years (before reaching the age of seven), pruning is carried out similarly to this method.
• Upon reaching the age of 7, all old pagons are removed.

Experienced gardeners recommend removing branches that are too low, almost close to the ground, as well as those growing inside the bush. It is necessary to excise infected, diseased and broken shoots. The main shoulder straps should be shortened, first of all, so that they can stimulate the growth of new branches.

Autumn formative pruning should be done only with disinfected tools.

Preparing for winter

When cultivating gooseberries in the middle zone or in the southern region, the berry does not require additional shelter for the winter. Things are quite different in the northern regions.

In the harsh Siberian winter, without quality shelter, the crop simply has no chance of survival. Temperature in - 40 ° C will lead the shoots to death if they are not covered with reliable mulching material.

How is gooseberry shelter carried out?

In low temperature conditions middle zone It is enough to sprinkle tree bark on the mulch and cover it well with snow.

Preparations for winter should begin after late-autumn watering and all measures for the prevention and treatment of the berry garden have been completed.

In spring, the cover is removed from the bush, and the plant independently returns to its original position within a few days. It is important to remove the covering material as quickly as possible, since if delayed, the pagons may begin to take root.

conclusions

Gooseberries can safely be called a long-liver of the garden and personal plots. unpretentiousness in care and high performance Even novice gardeners are attracted to it. By following the simplest rules of agricultural technology, you can reap good harvests for 12–15 years.

Video about a simple way to cover shrubs in winter

To shoot every year bountiful harvest from gooseberry beds, it is necessary to correctly perform such a procedure as preparing for winter. The main task of such preparation is to help the bush survive severe frosts, as well as prepare it for the next fruitful season.

Below we will look at how the autumn preparation of gooseberries is carried out and what manipulations are very important for this berry crop.

Caring for gooseberries in the fall should consist of the following steps:

• weeding gooseberry beds;
• digging up the tree trunk zone and row spacing;
• treating each bush and soil with special preparations.

The most common mistake For many gardeners, this is when, after harvesting, this crop is forgotten until spring. Such an inattentive attitude leads to the fact that every year the harvest will become more and more scarce, provided that the culture does not die at all after wintering.

It is important to understand that autumn is very important. So try to take literally a day and do everything necessary work. And your gooseberry will surely thank you for your care with a generous harvest.

It is advisable to start preparatory work for wintering with the removal of weeds and dry foliage. All collected plant residues and mulch from the garden should be taken out of the area and burned. Then start pruning.

The remains of all cut branches are carefully examined, and if they do not show signs of damage by defects, then they should be sent to compost pit to get natural fertilizer.

The next step is digging up the soil around the bush. This procedure must be carried out carefully. The fact is that small gooseberry roots are often in top layer soil. Therefore, if you dig deep, there is a big risk that you will damage the root system.

It is also worth noting that it is better to engage in digging at a time when it is planned to introduce top dressing into the soil. Thus, you will solve two problems at once: dig up the soil and at the same time fertilize the root system.

Well final stage, moistening the bush. The plants are watered only if the season is dry and the last rains were about a month ago. This procedure is performed as follows.

A small ditch is dug along the perimeter of the bush crown, into which about three buckets of water are gradually poured. Then they wait until the water has completely gone into the ground, and only then they dig in the previously dug ditch.

Gooseberry care in the fall must necessarily consist of the procedures described above. Only then can we hope for good harvest large berries next year.

Carrying out proper autumn pruning

Autumn pruning of the gooseberry bush performs several important functions at once. It helps to rejuvenate and improve the health of this culture. It is worth emphasizing that such pruning must be carried out every year. And it is done as follows:

1. In the first autumn after planting, each pagon is shortened by 30%.
2. Next autumn, a selection is made, for this purpose the strongest young branches are selected and only 4 or 5 of these branches are left, and the rest are completely excised. At the same time, the remaining branches are also shortened by 30%.
3. In subsequent years, pruning is performed in a similar way. The only thing that needs to be done regularly is to completely get rid of those pagons that grow inward or create excessive and unnecessary density.
4. After seven years, the first serious pruning is performed, during which all the old pagons are completely removed.

At the same time, do not forget to regularly shorten all the main branches in order to stimulate the growth of new branches that will replace their predecessors in the future.

Autumn is the best time for pruning. During this period, all the leaves fall and various defects become clearly visible.

The main thing is to take your time with pruning, do it in several steps and use only sharp and hardened tools. In cases where it is not possible to heat it, simply boil it.

The main thing is not to forget that when starting such a manipulation, the tools must be disinfected, otherwise you risk infecting the bush. By pruning gooseberries in this way for the winter, every gardener is sure to receive a strong and well-fruiting shrub in the spring.

What you need to know about autumn transplantation

Autumn transplant or planting planting material is much better and safer, in contrast to such a spring procedure. The fact is that in the spring it is quite difficult to perform such manipulation in a timely manner.

This is due to the fact that the above-ground part of the gooseberry begins to grow much faster than the root system. As a result, an incorrectly determined time leads to the death of the gooseberry.

If the gardener plants planting material in the fall, the seedlings will no longer grow, but will enter a dormant period, which will allow the root system to take root. As a result, in early spring the root will already be adapted to the new growing conditions, which will make it possible to fully nourish the entire ground part of the shrub.

This rule applies to absolutely all bushes, regardless of their age.

When planting or transplanting this berry crop, you should very carefully choose the area where the gooseberry will grow in the future. Choose such a place, guided by the following rules:

• the landing area should be sunny and not blown by winds;
• the soil must be neutral in acid;
• avoid swampy or damp places;
• the ideal setting for planting this crop would be the fence area, but do not forget to step back at least a meter from it;
• the soil for planting should be prepared in advance; for this you will need to add dolomite flour, with very high acidity and peat, if the soil is too heavy.

In addition to the above-described manipulations, it is also necessary to thoroughly clean the planting area of ​​various weeds and other debris. Well, when all the preparatory work is completed, you can start replanting the shrubs.

1. To do this, dig a hole 60 cm wide and 40 cm deep.
2. Next, the excavated soil is mixed with rotted humus or bird droppings, and potassium fertilizer is applied to the hole itself.
3. You need to pour a couple of buckets into the finished hole warm water and only then lower the root of the gooseberry bush.
4. Then you need to carefully straighten each root and only then bury it with pre-prepared soil and fertilizer.

And the final stage of this manipulation is mulching the bush. To do this, you can use humus that has been previously burned or use finely chopped pine bark.

it’s not difficult, the main thing is to carry out quality autumn and spring treatment bush. Despite the fact that gooseberries are undemanding in care, the culture will certainly reward you with a rich harvest for performing such simple manipulations.

Autumn feeding

If you want your gooseberry beds to overwinter well, do not be lazy to add fertilizer to each bush. As a rule, in the spring gooseberries are fertilized with nitrogen supplements. But in the fall the plant needs potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. They are introduced along with digging up the soil around the bush.

In the case when you mulch gooseberry bushes with peat, then, if possible, add wood ash to such mulch.

Preparing and insulating gooseberries for winter

When all the preparatory work has been completed, the final stage of preparing gooseberries for winter begins. As a rule, almost all varieties of this crop tolerate severe frosts well, provided that the front garden is covered with a snow blanket in time.

But you shouldn’t hope for chance and wait for snow; it will be better if you take care of the safety of the gooseberry bush yourself.

So, what needs to be done to preserve your culture:

1. Place an additional layer of soil on the tree trunk area, and then apply mulch so that it covers it with a layer of 10 cm.
2. Next step: lay the pieces of bark on top of the mulch.
3. Then, as soon as the first snow falls on the ground, it is additionally thrown under the bushes in a layer of 5 cm.

It is worth emphasizing that in regions where frosts can be -40 °C, such a shelter will not save you. Therefore, if you live in such areas, you will need to cover the gooseberries thoroughly.

To do this you will need to perform the following manipulation. Each bush is tied and bent to the ground, and earth is poured on top. Then they take burlap and wrap the bush. Next, a layer of spruce branches is placed on top and covered with dry leaves.

When spring comes to the earth, this structure must be dismantled as quickly as possible so that the pagons do not begin to take root in the ground and destructive excess moisture does not accumulate under them.

By performing such a simple manipulation, you will not only protect the bush from the cold, but also prevent damage to the pagons. After all, without proper shelter, some branches freeze and die.

If the care of the gooseberry was carried out correctly, then from the age of 4 the bush enters full fruiting and produces fairly large yields.

Successful cultivation of gooseberries lies in making the right choice places for planting, regular pruning, fertilizing and pest control.

Gooseberries grow well and bear fruit in fertile soils with moderate humidity and sufficient aeration. Poor – on swampy areas, as well as on soils with close occurrence of groundwater.

The root system of gooseberries is better developed than that of currants, so it is more drought-resistant. Therefore, a successful choice of planting site will greatly facilitate the care of gooseberries.

The roots lie at a depth of up to 80 centimeters, some reach a depth of one and a half to two meters. Gooseberries are a light-loving crop; when shaded, the yield is significantly reduced. The above-ground part consists of branches of various ages formed from basal shoots.

• The fruits are located on fruitlets formed from basal shoots capable of bearing fruit from two to five years.
• Some varieties have the most fruits on annual branches.
• The greatest productivity is observed at the age of 4 years, then it decreases and the branches begin to die off.

Gooseberries are very diverse depending on the variety in color, shape, and taste.

Where to plant

On flat or slightly sloping areas, well lit and protected from the winds. Compared to black currants, caring for gooseberries does not require regular watering. Excess moisture inhibits plant development.

Gooseberries are successfully grown in regions with arid climate. You can plant it on various soils, but a high yield is obtained on loamy, sandy and chernozem soils rich in organic compounds.

Planting gooseberries

It is better to plant gooseberries in autumn in the second decade of October or early spring.

• Before planting, acidic soil is required. lime.
• Apply 400 grams of lime per square meter.
• Row spacing 2 meters, in a row between plants - 1.5 m, depending on the strength and character of the variety.
• Spreading varieties are planted less frequently, while compact varieties are planted more densely.

How to fill the planting hole

IN planting pits 50-60 centimeters wide, 30-40 centimeters deep add:

• 10 kilograms of humus;
• 150 g superphosphate;
• 60-80 g of potassium salt.

Gooseberry seedling deepen into the soil 5-6 centimeters. When planting gooseberries, the above-ground part is cut off, leaving 3-4 buds above the soil surface.

How to feed gooseberries in spring

If a sufficient amount of fertilizer was applied before planting, then in the first two to three years the gooseberries do not need to be fertilized. To enhance growth, it is better to feed gooseberries in the spring. ammonium nitrate 30 grams per square meter. Fertilizers need to be incorporated into moist soil.

After entering the time full fruiting Gooseberries must be fed in the spring:

• nitrogen
• phosphorus
• potassium
• organic

TO saltpeter add 120 grams superphosphate and 40 grams potassium chloride or instead, 200 grams of vegetable ash per square meter. Organic fertilizers – compost, humus – add every other year 10-12 kilograms for feeding gooseberries at a young age.

How to feed gooseberries in the fall

After harvest at the end of summer and early autumn, gooseberries are fertilized with a complex mineral fertilizer. And in September-October For each adult fruit-bearing bush, during the autumn digging of soil, add 30 kilograms of organic matter for feeding gooseberries for the winter.

How to trim gooseberries

In autumn or early spring You can prune gooseberries without harming the plant. On second or third year after planting, remove underdeveloped, diseased and damaged branches. Every year they leave in the bush 3-4 strong shoots from which the bush is formed.

In the fourth or fifth year cut off the outer young shoots directed towards the middle of the bush. They also get rid of those located close to the ground if they are not used for horizontal layering.

The most productive branches in a gooseberry bush are 4-5 year old. Therefore, starting from the 6-7th year, the branches are removed, since their yield decreases.

Annual growth on fruit-bearing bushes they are not shortened unless they are affected by powdery mildew. The cut branches must be burned.

Reproduction methods

Most accessible ways gooseberry propagation are:

1. Propagation by jigging
2. Woody cuttings.

Varieties Donetsk large-fruited, Date Woody cuttings take root poorly, so it is more effective to propagate gooseberries of these varieties with green cuttings. They are rooted using a small greenhouse or even under a glass jar.

Cuttings are cut into lengths of 10–12 centimeters late May-early June from the current year's growth and immediately planted in moist soil, leaving 2-3 top leaves on the shoot. Further care will consist of frequent watering, shading from direct sun rays. Then the coverings are removed and the gooseberries are fed with fast-acting fertilizers.

How to treat gooseberries against pests

Currant bud mite

Gooseberries are often affected by the currant bud mite, so caring for gooseberries in the spring necessarily includes measures to combat this pest.

Ticks live in the middle of currant and gooseberry buds. Greatest harm brings black currants, but often settles on the buds.

The mite-infested buds do not open in the spring and die. During the period of flowering and harvest formation, mites move to new buds that form in the axils of the leaves growing in the shoots. Infected buds enlarge and appear large, round, and swollen.

The kidney tick is transmitted:

• with planting material;
• It is carried by birds and insects, and by people when processing plantings during its migration.

Fighting methods

• Harvesting gooseberry cuttings only from healthy bushes.

• Disinfection of cuttings for 13-15 minutes in water heated to 45-46 degrees Celsius.

• Removal and destruction of damaged buds in the fall after leaf fall or in the spring before they begin to bloom.

• Annually carry out sanitary pruning, feeding, and preventive spraying in spring and autumn.

• Spraying the bushes during the flowering period, after flowering and after another 10 days with garlic infusion (50-100 grams per 10 liters of water).

• The application of manure, as well as early spring fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers increases the resistance of plants to mites.

Common spider mite

Damages currants and gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries. Spider mite on gooseberries, it sucks juices from the leaves, which leads to premature fall.

Adult ticks are greenish yellow color up to half a millimeter in size, they overwinter under dry fallen leaves, plant debris, and lumps of soil.

Weeds are also breeding and overwintering sites for ticks. They appear in May and cause harm until September, producing 6-10 generations over the summer. Therefore, careful care of gooseberries is the best prevention of spider mite infestation of the bush.

Control measures

• Digging the soil in the fall.

• Weed control.

• Spraying with infusion of garlic, onion peel (150-200 g per 10 liters of water when infused for 5 days).

• Spraying gooseberries with tobacco infusion (400 grams of tobacco or tobacco dust is poured into 10 liters hot water, leave for two days, add 40 grams of soap). It is important to thoroughly coat the underside of the leaves with the solution.

Blackcurrant gall aphid

Also damages red, sometimes black currant. Aphid eggs overwinter on branches. During the period of unfolding of the first leaves, green larvae emerge, settling on the underside of the leaves and sucking the juices from the plant. As a result, red thickenings (swellings) appear. The foliage becomes ugly, growth stops, and the yield decreases.

Fighting methods

• To destroy pest eggs, the gooseberry bush is sprayed with three percent nitrafen before the buds open - 300 g per 10 liters of water.

• If the number of aphids is small, the damaged tops are cut off and burned.

• Treat the underside of the leaves with infusion of tobacco, yarrow, laundry soap(200 grams per 10 liters of water) during bud break and again after 10 days.

• Plant tomatoes between the rows.

• If the number of aphids is high, gooseberry bushes are sprayed with 10 percent karbofos (75 grams per 10 liters of water) during bud break and immediately after flowering.

Currant glass

Damages currants and gooseberries. A moth with transparent wings, similar to a wasp. The mass flight of the moth begins on the 20th day after the end of currant flowering. Females lay eggs one at a time in cracks near the buds in the lower part of 2-4 year old branches. Caterpillars emerge from the eggs, they bite into the shoots and make moves in them.

Gooseberry branches damaged by a glass case wither and dry out. Signs of damage are clearly visible after flowering.

Fighting methods

• In early spring, damaged branches are removed and burned, leaving no stumps.

• During flowering, inspect the bushes and cut wilted flowers to the healthy part.

• Avoid mechanical damage bark and branches.

• 18 days after the end of flowering and after harvesting, spray the gooseberries with 10 percent karbofos (75 grams per 10 liters of water).

• Instead of karbofos, you can use an infusion of garlic and pepper, a solution of laundry soap, mustard (200 g per 10 liters of water).

Gooseberry sawfly

Damages currants and gooseberries. The larvae completely eat up the leaves within 2 days, leaving only thick veins. Adult larvae overwinter in dense cobweb cocoons at a depth of up to 15 centimeters.

In early spring they pupate and as the leaves bloom, adult insects emerge, laying eggs on the underside of the leaves along the veins.

Control measures

• Shake the caterpillars onto the litter and destroy them.

• In the fall, dig up the soil under the bushes.

• During bud break, bud separation and immediately after flowering, spray the gooseberries with a 10% solution of karbofos or its analogues.

• The second generation of the pest is sprayed after harvest.

• To repel the sawfly, you can plant tomatoes between the bushes.

Harvesting

Unlike other berry crops, gooseberries ripen simultaneously and therefore the crop is harvested at one time in a state of technical ripeness.

Fully developed and of typical size, but still hard, the fruits are collected for making preserves, compotes, and jam. And in a state of full ripeness - for fresh consumption and making jelly.

What are the benefits of gooseberries?

Valued for its high nutritional and medicinal properties. It has a high content of sugars and organic acids (mainly citric and malic). Unripe fruits contain oxaline and amber acid, which have an anti-sclerosis effect.

Gooseberry fruits are rich in iron, copper, and zinc. But the special value lies in high content pectin. For the prevention of diseases and treatment, fresh gooseberry fruits are most often used as antiradiants, choleretic and diuretic.

Gooseberry fruits stimulate the gastrointestinal tract and metabolism.

To print

Proper care of gooseberries is not only about fertilizing, watering and controlling diseases and pests. In order for a bush to produce a good harvest, it must be pruned correctly.

In progress trimmings And gooseberry formations Many owners of summer cottages are either very reluctant to remove excess branches, or do not care for the bushes at all. In the first case, this is motivated by the fact that a potential harvest is being destroyed with one’s own hands. And in the second case, it all comes down to the excuse: “it’s growing - and good!” Both of these approaches are not correct; gooseberries require care no less than any other crop.

Why prune gooseberries?

A special feature of gooseberries is that their shoots have good regenerative ability. Simply put, new shoots grow on the branches every year − annual growths. They thicken the bush, which is bad both for the plant itself and for those who plan to harvest. Just imagine how unpleasant it is to wade through thickets strewn with thorns, trying to reach the treasured berries.

Gooseberry is a light-loving crop that needs constant influx fresh air. A large number of branches leads to insufficient nutrition for the plant, so the bush quickly withers and is attacked by diseases and pests.

Gooseberry belongs to the same genus and family as currant, so their biology is very similar. Like currants, longevity fruit formations in the "northern grapes" it is quite long, that is, the gooseberry branch is able to bear fruit for 10 years. But if you want to get a consistently high yield, you need to do it every 6 years. anti-aging pruning, that is, cut off the entire above-ground part and leave one control branch.

When is the best time to prune?

The awakening of gooseberries after winter begins quite early - the snow barely melts and the temperature slightly exceeds 0 ° C. Due to the fact that it is quite difficult to "catch" this period, most gardeners prefer to spend autumn pruning gooseberries. It is carried out after the berries are collected and the leaves fall.

During autumn pruning, gooseberry shoots are only cut out and in no case shortened, because. this can lead to their drying out and death.

For autumn pruning do the following:

• inspect the branches, identify the old and diseased ones (they are dark, almost black, look dry and different from the rest) and remove them;
• even if the bush consists almost entirely of old branches, do not remove more than a third in one year;
• in late autumn, when the gooseberry is at rest, thin out the bush by removing competing branches, as well as those that hang over the ground.

Autumn pruning will save you from having to bother in the spring. With the retreat of cold weather, it will only be necessary to remove the frozen branches, cut the tips of young (if they have weakened) and basal (grown in the current season) shoots by 1/4-1/3.

How to shape gooseberries?

Pruning and shaping gooseberries should be carried out only in gloves and with the help secateurs.

The shaping and pruning of gooseberries is carried out in the spring before the awakening of the kidneys or in the fall before the onset of cold weather.

In the process of formation Special attention given to the base of the bush. Once foliage appears there, it will receive the least amount of light and have virtually no ventilation. If the formation was not carried out in a timely manner, and the conditions for plant growth are comfortable, the gooseberry grows in all directions - sideways and upwards. A couple of years will pass and instead of a neat bush, a thick and overgrown bush will form, which will most likely hurt.

During the shaping process, you must give the gooseberry bush such a shape that light, air and moisture freely penetrate into the crown, there is space around it for cultivating the soil, and it is also convenient to remove the berries in the future.

You need to start forming a bush immediately after planting. To do this, shorten each shoot, leaving only 2-3 lower buds. This technique stimulates active growth young branches. In the next 2-3 years, the plant will also need severe pruning; no more than 3 strong young shoots will need to be left annually.

Secrets of proper pruning

The main thing when pruning gooseberries is not to damage the fruit bud. The cut should be made 5-7 mm above it, at an angle of 45-50 degrees. If you cut off the excess part very close to the bud, it will dry out. If the cut is made too high above the bud, the part of the branch located above the bud will dry out.

After shortening the gooseberry shoots, no more than 4 buds should remain on them.

When pruning, you need to understand where the branch will grow from the bud - outside or inside the bush. The correct direction is outward, this will help avoid thickening and provide better illumination and ventilation of the bush.

How many branches should there be in a bush?

The time for maximum fruiting in gooseberries occurs at approximately 6-8 years, depending on the variety and growing conditions. By this time, the bush should be formed and have 8-10 strong branches growing from the root collar, which make up the crown.

Further pruning of gooseberries is aimed at maintaining it in an unthickened state. To do this, branches that have reached six years of age are removed as incapable of actively bearing fruit. They will be replaced by young root shoots.

Every year you will have to get rid of 4-5 old or non-viable branches. Yes, it’s a pity to reduce the potential harvest with your own hands, but this is necessary for healthy fruiting and the life of the bush.

Which branches should I cut first?

First of all, remove the branches that lie on the ground. They are the weakest because they are constantly in the shade, are more often exposed to diseases and are not able to bear fruit normally. Often the branches twist and fall to the ground - in this case they are transferred to a younger branch.

When sanitary pruning, first of all, weak, old, fruit-bearing and intertwined branches are removed. Because the different varieties can grow to different heights; weak growth is removed based on a visual inspection of the bush.

It is very easy to recognize old gooseberry branches - they are thicker, darker and longer than other shoots.

Then the bush is inspected and poorly located, rubbing gooseberry shoots, frozen, unripe and disease-affected branch tips are identified. They are shortened to healthy wood.

The tops of the “central” branches are cut off by a third of the annual growth. If you perform this procedure every year, nutrients will be redistributed and more branches will form. At the pruning sites, branches with flowers (and in the future, berries) will appear.