Toilet      03/31/2019

When is the best time to plant winter onions? How to plant onions before winter so that they do not rot and give a generous harvest

Foreword

All more gardeners became interested in the question of when to plant onions before winter. And this is not surprising, since this method of planting has many advantages. In order for the onion to sprout in the spring and then please the harvest, it is necessary to choose the right time not only, but also the seed material.

Selection of seed material for planting in the winter

The main one, planted before winter - so that they are adapted to endure frosts, quickly and actively begin to grow in the spring, are characterized by maximum germination and give a healthy, strong bulb. First of all, almost any zoned (local), preferably spicy varieties are suitable. Any southern species should be abandoned - there is a high risk of freezing.

The following varieties are traditionally used: Arzamas, Danilovsky-301, Stuttgarten Riesen, Strigunovsky, Bessonovsky, golden, Ellan, Myagkovsky-300, Odinovets, Chalcedony, Carmen MS. Of particular note Bessonovsky And Strigunovsky, because they are early maturing and most resistant to shooting. Well proven Stuttgarden And Ellan. Not so long ago, special winter onion varieties appeared: Radar, Shakespeare And Keep Well.

Guided natural features the region of residence and the prevalence there of certain varieties from the above, you can pick up something for planting in the winter on your site. If it is possible to plant several types of onions, especially when this is done for the first time, then you should definitely do just that. This will allow in the long term to determine the optimal variety, which is better than the others in terms of winter frost tolerance, germination, care during growth and maturation, and, of course, will be most to your taste.

Yellow varieties with golden husks are sharper and more bitter. Purple and white onions have a milder flavor with sweeter notes. Before planting onions, planting material must be sorted out. All damaged, dried and diseased bulbs should be discarded. It is also necessary to sort the onion sets by size. Purchased planting material, as a rule, should already be “calibrated”.

Onion sets, based on their size, are usually divided into the following categories:

  • oatmeal - the diameter of the bulbs is less than 1 cm;
  • the first category is bulbs with a diameter of 1–1.5 cm;
  • the second - bulbs with a diameter of 1.5–3 cm;
  • samples - bulbs more than 3 cm.

Usually the best onions grow from sevka of the 1st category or oatmeal. The latter species is generally recommended to be planted only before winter, because if you store it until spring, it will simply dry out. Samples and sets of the 2nd category are planted in the winter in order to get early green feather. They are not suitable for growing turnips.

We determine the landing time - October or November?

When choosing the time when to plant the onion, you should first of all be guided by following points. The sevok should take root before the onset of frost, namely before the soil freezes, but do not have time to germinate - shoot a green arrow. Otherwise, the success of overwintering the bulbs and their active growth in the spring will be a big question. For reference, it should be at about the same time as winter garlic.

For middle lane Russia favorable time planting is the period from October to early November. For a more accurate choice of dates for individual regions, one should focus on the existing climatic conditions. The most important thing is to prevent planting sevka in warm earth, we must wait until the first stable frosts come. So, the best period for planting onions for the winter in the Leningrad region is the first decade of October, in the Moscow region - the second decade of October, in Western Siberia - the middle to the end of the same month, and in Volgograd - from the 3rd decade of October to the first of November. You should also focus on the current weather and upcoming forecasts for it.

The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is between 0–+5 °C during the day, and drops to -3 °C at night. During this period, soil indicators are around +3, +4 °C. This moment is the most favorable for planting a seedling in the winter, if, according to the forecast, warming is not expected. In each region, it will come at its own time. Somewhere such weather can be established already in September, and by the end of October-beginning of November there will be snow at a temperature outside the window of -10 ° C.

Also, when determining the time when to plant onions in winter, one should be guided by the recommendations lunar calendar. He will tell you the most favorable day in the selected period. It should not be planted on a full moon if the weather conditions allow the work to be rescheduled for a more suitable day. You can also find out from the lunar calendar when it is better to start fertilizing, which is done in advance, not on the same day as planting.

Tiered onions are also planted before winter. This is the name of varieties that are perennial frost-resistant branching plants that reproduce only vegetatively - aerial and basal onion bulbs. best moment for planting a multi-tiered bow - the end of August. He then has time to take root, germinate, and also accumulate a supply of the nutrients he needs.

How to prepare the beds for winter onions?

The bed is prepared in advance about 2 weeks before planting the seedling, so that the soil on it settles a little. The place is selected sunny, well-lit, ventilated and dry. In addition, it should be noted that bulbous crops do not tolerate excess spring thaw moisture, and therefore the seedling should be planted where, at the end of winter, the snow melts together and early, and the water does not stagnate. And yet, for onions, it is better to establish a bed where cucumbers, potatoes, legumes or tomatoes were grown before it.

Before arranging the beds, it is advisable to check the lunar calendar to find out a favorable day for fertilizing and carrying out work. When the celestial body takes a suitable position, on the same day you should carefully dig or loosen the soil - it depends on its type. Then the garden bed must be disinfected with some solution intended for this, for example, blue vitriol. Prepare it in the ratio: for 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. a spoonful of the mixture. After pouring the solution into a watering can, we evenly irrigate the garden bed with it. The consumption rate should be 2 liters per 1 m 2.

Then, at the rate of 1 m 2, 3 kg of humus and peat should be added, as well as 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate. First, everything must be mixed well. Instead, you can also add simple humus to the soil or compost mixed with wood ash. Then you need to properly mix the fertilizer with the soil. At the end, the surface of the beds is leveled and slightly compacted. Before planting the seedling, the soil should not only have time to settle, but also become a little denser. The bed should not be too low and not too high.

In the lowlands, the bulbs are likely to dry out when the thaw comes along with the accompanying spring flood. On overly high garden they can freeze during severe frosts. Optimal Height- 18–20 cm.

How to plant onions - all the nuances of technology

Ovsyuzhka and sets of the 1st category should be planted at a depth of 2–3 cm. In the case of deeper planting, these small bulbs may not germinate, they simply do not have enough strength. It will lead to death planting material. Samples and sets of the 2nd category should be planted to a depth of 4–6 cm. Onions planted in winter can be placed on the ridge not only in rows, but also in nests, dropping 3–4 pieces close to each other.

It is advisable not to cut the neck of the onions - it must be deepened into the ground by 1.5–2 cm. Rows are formed 15–20 cm relative to each other. Between individual plants usually leave 10 cm or less, most often 6-7 cm - this depends on the size of the set. Grooves or holes are made under the rows. Having laid the bulbs in the prepared recesses, they are covered with light soil. Onion is much inferior to garlic in terms of winter hardiness, and therefore its shallow planting can lead to freezing, especially when frosts come before the snow cover falls.

An easy way to secure and save future harvest- mulch beds with a planted seedling, that is, cover with straw, beans and beans, hay, dry leaves or stems of plants, for example, Jerusalem artichoke and similar materials of organic origin. plastic film and the like cannot be used. It is necessary to cover only when the first frost grabs the soil.

You should not do this before, because there is a risk of the bulbs aging. To prevent the mulch from being blown away by the wind, spruce branches or dry branches are placed on top of it. With the onset of spring, immediately after the snow melts, the shelter must be removed. Otherwise, the bed will warm up badly and slowly, and the first shoots, like the future harvest, will appear later.

Benefits and reasons for possible failures

Autumn planting has the following advantages. In winter, you do not need to monitor the preservation of small sets and worry about it. In the spring, when there are already many various works on the site, you no longer need to plant onions and waste time on this. In autumn, planting material costs much less than in spring, that is, when buying it, there is a tangible cost savings. As for the process of growing crops, here are the advantages:

  • Onions planted in autumn ripen earlier than those sown in spring and store better.
  • By the beginning of summer, a dense strand of roots is already forming at the bottom of the onion turnip, which prevents the onion fly from laying eggs. Due to this, the bulb is less damaged by this pest, which means that the harvest will be better.

  • Grown onions are healthier, since sick and weak sets die off in winter - there is nothing to grow from for a defective crop.
  • Bulbs grow from oatmeal, which are not inferior in size to those obtained from sevka of the 2nd category, which is planted in the spring.
  • Oatmeal, planted in autumn, does not give arrows.

The reasons for the unsuccessful cultivation of onions, the seedling of which was planted in the fall, may be: the bulbs were planted too deep or soaked in the spring due to water retention in the beds; planting sevka too early - the bulbs managed to germinate before the onset of frost; poorly mulched sevok repeatedly froze and thawed due to changing weather conditions.

I remember June: in one hand a bucket of strawberries, in the other - with onions. Neighbors are confused: onions are usually harvested at the end of July. But I planted mine in the fall! And along with it, carrots. And now, in November, my beds are ready for the winter.

Winter planting of onion sets

Once, my sister and I had so many onion sets that we selected a smaller one and decided on a winter planting: it won’t sprout, so we’ll plant the “correct” set, larger, in the same place. Or vice versa: the stocked sevok may not be preserved until spring, then the winter planting will not leave us without onions. Both winter plantings and May plantings were a good success, the harvesting was carried out in two stages.

We also tried to sow onions with seeds before winter. In this case, the sowing dates are also chosen taking into account the fact that the seeds should not hatch and germinate (beginning of November is suitable). You need to choose the right variety - early ripe, resistant to shooting, for example, Bessonovsky, Strigunovsky local (at first we did not pay attention to this feature, and therefore the first pancake came out lumpy). Scientists say that with winter crops, onions ripen 2-3 weeks earlier, the yield is 20-25% higher, and the keeping quality of the bulbs improves. Seeds sown before winter receive natural hardening and are able to sprout at low temperatures, better tolerate spring frosts. Plants develop a more powerful root system, use winter moisture reserves more efficiently.

Winter onion planting. Master Class

For winter planting, it is better to use a variety Ellan- it is designed specifically for this purpose (and also for sowing seeds and getting sevka). Any other sharp, zoned variety for your area is also suitable, if you take bulbs with a diameter of less than 1 cm: such sets are very difficult to keep until spring, and during winter plantings, the harvest will be no worse than when planting in the usual way. It is important to choose the right time: if you make a winter landing on a warm September day, the onion can start growing and will inevitably die in winter. Onions, like winter garlic, are best planted when the soil temperature steadily drops to +5 ° C and below. In this case, he will winter well, and with the onset of heat, he will give friendly shoots. We choose a place that is well ventilated, without stagnant moisture.

1. We prepare beds for winter planting in the usual way, we do it in advance. For bulbs with a diameter of 1 cm, the depth of the groove should be about 4 cm on light soil, and 2 cm on heavy soil; smaller bulbs are planted to a depth of 2 cm. The distance between the grooves is 15-20 cm.

2. Planting is carried out when the soil temperature drops to +5 ° С. The difference between winter planting and spring planting is that the bulbs are not soaked before planting, the neck of the bulb is not cut off. We plant the bulbs in the grooves so that the neck is 1.5-2 cm below the soil level. The distance between the bulbs in a row is 8-10 cm.


3. The onion is responsive to fertilization, so after planting, first sprinkle it with prepared soil, and then mulch it with humus (4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq. M). Mulching will reduce the evaporation of moisture, protect the root system during temperature changes.

4. It will also be useful to insulate the beds with sawdust. If you visit the site in the winter, rake the snow into the garden. In the spring, when the snow melts, the sawdust is carefully removed as it thaws, the soil is loosened between the rows, and fertilizers are applied. Before you remove the sawdust, carefully look for shoots that have appeared - they are easy to miss and damage.

Podzimny sowing of carrots and onions

Carrots are usually enough for us until the new harvest, but in the summer the taste of last year's vegetable is not the same! Podzimny sowing allows you to get fresh carrots a month earlier. The first time we decided to try it in my grandmother's garden. The soil there is sandy loam, the place was chosen both protected from drafts and sufficiently lit. They made a small bed with shallow grooves in advance, and at the end of October, when it was already cold enough, they sown. Seeds were chosen pelleted - they are easier to plant, which is especially important in cold weather, covered with earth, mulched with peat from above.

In the spring, I had to worry: although there was a lot of snow in winter, the soil was already pretty dry, and the carrots did not sprout. We decided to water it intensively - in the morning and in the evening, and soon sprouts appeared. In the future, they watered as usual, weeded, but they didn’t have to thin out - coated seeds can be sown immediately with an interval of 3-5 cm.

At the end of June, they could not stand it, they pulled out one - and gasped: even, without small roots, the carrot turned out to be about 20 cm in length. Maybe one of these was born? We pull out in another place - the same, you can gradually remove it.

But an attempt to sow before winter on another garden plot was not crowned with success: there we could not water it twice a day in the spring, and shoots developed poorly. Much more successful under-winter crops of carrots turned out to be with retired neighbors who move to live on country cottage area in the end of April.

Podzimnie crops of onions and carrots. Master Class

1. Before the start of autumn digging of the soil, humus is added (about half a bucket per 1 sq. M), lime, ash, phosphate and potash fertilizers (about 40 g, or 6 tablespoons per sq. M). The soil is dug up by 20-25 cm, leveled.

2. Grooves are cut every 15-20 cm. They should be deeper than when sown in spring: about 4-5 cm for onions and 2-3 cm for carrots.

3. Seeds are sown dry, it is better to sow carrots with pelleted seeds.

4. The bed is covered with earth prepared in advance and mulch - for example, peat or humus (about 4-6 kg per 1 sq. M, the mulch layer should be 3-4 cm). In the spring, the bed should be covered with synthetic material for an early harvest. During winter sowing, onions manage to form a marketable bulb in one season, carrots are ready for harvest around the end of June.

You can learn about vegetables and flowers that can be planted in autumn, about varieties of carrots ideal for winter sowing, how to prepare fruit trees and shrubs for winter, and much more from the materials of our site.

Onion is perhaps the most popular vegetable crop. The consumption rate of onions is 8-12 kg per person per year. Every gardener dreams of getting as many tight golden bulbs as possible.

Agrotechnics of cultivation of this culture is simple. Onions are grown on a biennial cycle. In the first year, commercial heads can be obtained using only a limited number of varieties.

Therefore, in the first year in central Russia they practice seed cultivation planting material. Further grown onion sets are planted in spring or autumn to obtain marketable onion heads.

To get a good harvest, you need to consider such biological features Luke:

  • onion is a biennial plant;
  • onion is a cold-resistant crop. Small spring frosts down to -3 ° C onions tolerate without damage;
  • the root system of the onion is fibrous, the roots are not very long, therefore they have a small suction capacity;
  • onions do not tolerate a lack of lighting.

An increase in temperature in the spring of more than +25 degrees delays the growth of leaves. Onions are very demanding crops for moisture, fertility and soil structure.

Bulb sets must be stored at a certain temperature. It is not always possible to fulfill this condition. If the storage temperature is high, then the bulbs will dry out, if it is too low, then after planting the seedlings will throw out the flower stalks.

Autumn planting sevka eliminates this problem. When the air temperature drops to + 2.3 °, you can start planting onions. This rule must be observed so that the bulbs grow roots, but the leaves cannot start growing.

In the spring, thanks to the already formed root system, the onion quickly grows in late March, early April, when the air temperature rarely rises above + 20 °.

The spring moisture accumulated in the soil gives a good starting impetus. Daylight hours are still short. Onions quickly grow roots and green mass.


Strong plants are less affected by onion fly and false powdery mildew. Plantings are easy to weed, because the onion overtakes annual weeds in growth. To obtain good harvest, you need to select winter varieties suitable for growing in central Russia.

Onion varieties suitable for planting before winter

So, for planting before winter, the following varieties of onions are suitable:

  1. "Strigunovsky". Early maturing spicy variety.
  2. Variety "Stuttgarten Riesen". High-yielding variety resistant to downy mildew.
  3. Myachkovsky. When planted in winter, it gives a stable harvest.
  4. "Carmen". Variety with dry purple scales. Bulbs reach a mass of 100-120 grams.
  5. "Silver Prince" Medium late variety. It is considered the leader in terms of yield for winter sowing
  6. "Small nest". This variety has good keeping quality.

Preparatory work for autumn planting

The bed must be prepared in advance. A place for a garden bed is chosen with a slight elevation and well lit by the sun's rays. Best Cast soil for growing onions - sandy loam or light loam with a granular or lumpy structure.

It is better to plant onions after the following crops:

  • vegetable peas;
  • zucchini;
  • early and mid-ripening cabbage;

Note: re-planting of this culture in the old place is allowed after 4 years.

The earth in the beds must be dug up and at the same time humus should be added at the rate of 2-3 kg of humus per square meter, and mineral fertilizers: superphosphate and potassium salt.

Then everything is leveled, and left for subsidence of the soil.

Before planting, onion sets are cleaned and sorted by size. Furrows are made every 35-40 cm between the rows. Bulbs up to 1 cm in diameter are planted at a distance of 4-5 cm between each other.


For sets 1-1.4 cm in size, the distance is increased to 6-8 cm, and the largest ones (1.5-2.2 cm) are already placed at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other.

Note: from bulbs with a diameter of more than 2.2 cm in the first year, a flower “arrow” can already form.

When planting sevok, the soil is compacted around the bulbs with a palm or a board, so that when growing, the root system does not push the bulb to the soil surface. Surface layer the soil above the bulbs should be no thicker than 2 cm. Since when the bulbs are deepened, their growth is delayed and the yield is reduced.

In early spring, you really want to enjoy fresh onion greens, and it takes a long time to wait for onions planted in spring to grow. Yes, and the harvest from winter onions can be obtained early and plentiful, and in the remaining time, take the garden with another crop. Also, growing winter onions can make good money if you approach this business wisely.

Somehow it so happened historically that we mainly plant onions in the spring, trying to select larger and juicier sets. If anyone has grown sevok on their own, they know how hard it is to keep the small bulbs of the sevka in winter. During storage before spring planting, they have time to dry completely and turn into "nothing". Such an unjustified waste of labor invested. But small sevok can be planted in the fall and not worry about its safety, and in the spring you can enjoy green feathers and in July get a chic crop of onion turnips.

I will share my experience, why I plant onions in the fall and what secrets there are in this technology. Moreover, this method is gaining inevitable popularity for its simplicity, and small-sized winter onion sets are sold more expensive than large ones in the autumn planting season.

How to get winter onion sets

For those who like to do everything themselves, I’ll tell you how to grow sevok on your own. In the most early dates, as soon as the snow melts and the soil warms up at least slightly, we sow the nigella (onion seeds). Sowing is thickened, we make a wide strip of about 5 - 6 cm. We make such a distance between the strips that it is easy to weed. We cover with earth with a layer of 1 - 2 cm, lightly roll it up, like carrot crops, and mulch with compost or humus.
We water the crops, and after the emergence of shoots in hot and dry weather, we repeat the watering.

As the onion sets grow from seeds, we weed the bed, loosen the soil after each watering or rain. Sevok does not need feeding.

An indicator that it is time to dig onion sets is that the leaves turn yellow and fall down. Then we dig everything at once and leave it to dry in the garden. When it dries, the leaves quickly and easily peel off directly with your hands.

The crucial moment comes: to select and sort the seed bulbs. First of all, we wind our crop in the wind and sort it: we leave large bulbs (more than 1 cm in diameter) for spring sowing, and small ones (less than 1 cm in diameter) we will plant in the fall.


Why onion sets for planting in the fall should be small:
  • Small onions do not shoot, so you can, without fear of frost and spring frosts, get a chic harvest of high-quality onion. This happens due to the fact that the supply of nutrients in them is very small, it is not enough to form an arrow with seeds.
  • During the winter and early spring, the bulbs gain enough nutrients to please in the spring with excellent greens, feathers, and in late June - early August provide turnips.
  • The area after an early onion can be used for other vegetables.
  • It turns out very economically, since the small sevok still will not “live” to spring plantings and so it gives a good harvest.

Winter onion varieties: description
  • Senshiyu yellow,
  • Radar,
  • Kip Well,
  • Ellan,
  • Mstersky,
  • Danilovsky,
  • Stuttgarten Riesen,
  • Strigunovsky local,
  • Odintsovets,
  • Myachkovsky 300,
  • golden,
  • Carmen MS,
  • Sturon.

Not every onion variety is able to survive frosts, but breeders have bred varieties and hybrids that can be dormant in the soil under snow, and grow in conditions of not too long daylight hours.

For example, bulbs of the variety Shakespeare able to withstand frost down to -18 degrees, so it is most often used for planting in the fall. It is unpretentious and does not require special care. The bulb itself is round with white flesh and brown integumentary scales.

Varieties Radar And Ellan characterized by good germination, excellent palatability, early ripening. So Ellan can be consumed already in June, when spring onions and garlic are still growing, and last year's harvest is over. Turnips of medium size, weighing 100-150 grams, and Radar with good care can please and large - up to 300 grams.

Such winter varieties are deservedly popular. Sturon, Baron, Centurion. It takes 2-2.5 months from the beginning of the regrowth of the sevka to full maturation. Sturon is perfectly stored for at least 8 months, and Centurion is different high content vitamin C and spicy taste.

Somewhat flat, golden-brown fruits with a sharp taste of the variety Studgarten Riesen ripen in 2 months and grow up to 150-200 grams.

Variety name Keep Well speaks for itself: they prefer to grow it for long-term storage. It has the same elongated bulb shape as the variety Bamberger but a few larger size. Winter onions of these varieties have proven themselves to be unpretentious in care and convenient for planting in the fall.

Mstersky onions are cultivated in Mstera Ivanovskaya industrial area. Forms a not very large bulb of a flat shape. The color of dry scales is yellow with a pink tint or light brown. Fleshy scales are white. Only sevka and small samples are used for planting in culture on a turnip. Larger samples go for pen culture. Mstera onion is quite resistant to downy mildew. The soil is relatively unpretentious. Works well in the northern regions.

Myachkovsky onions are cultivated in Myachkovo, Moscow region, from where it spread beyond last years and to other areas. Forms a very large bulb of a flat and rounded flat shape. The variety is very productive and relatively undemanding to the soil, but in winter storage has a reduced ductility. With regard to downy mildew disease, it shows fairly good resistance. It has no export value, it is of interest for cultivation at the latitude of Moscow and somewhat to the north for the purpose of marketing in domestic markets.

Planting onions in autumn

When to plant onions before winter

The timing of planting onions is quite certain - planting should be completed 3 - 4 weeks (25 - 35 days) before the soil freezes, that is, before the onset of stable frosts. IN different regions these times may vary. For central Russia, for example, for the Moscow region, a favorable landing time is the period from October to early November. Our weather is unpredictable, sometimes it's cold, then suddenly later "Indian summer" will clear up. So keep an eye on the weather forecast. Orient yourself like this, if the temperature has dropped to + 5 ° C and holds, it's time to plant.

Also, when determining the time of planting a sevka in the fall, many look at the lunar calendar. He will tell you the most auspicious days planting onions for the winter. Definitely should not be planted on a full moon if the weather allows the plant to be rescheduled to a more suitable time. You can also find out from the lunar calendar when it is better to start fertilizing, which is done in advance, not on the same day as planting.

Where to plant

On the same bed, onions can be grown for a maximum of 2 years in a row, then the place should be changed and returned to the old one after 4 to 5 years. Soils should be light: humus loams or humus-sandy soils. The most luxurious onions can be grown on silt deposits in river valleys, but only warm ones.

Potatoes can be precursors of onions, White cabbage, corn and others.

Important! It is impossible to bring fresh manure under the onion sets, since as a result the plants will form a large leaf mass and loose bulbs that are unsuitable for storage. If you want to fertilize the beds, then use humus or compost. And it is better to bring it under the predecessor.

The area allotted for the autumn planting of onions should be dry, ventilated, stagnant water will cause the onion to simply rot. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure unhindered removal of melt and rainwater to the side, and even better if the site is on a hill, so that high ground water couldn't interfere.

How to plant onions before winter

We cut the grooves at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from each other. We plant sets in increments of 3 to 10 cm to a depth of 3-4 cm. The distance between plants in a row depends on the variety. The larger the bulbs that the variety forms, the greater the distance should be. So the food area will be sufficient.


The planting depth of 3-4 cm is due to the fact that at a shallower depth, the bulbs begin to bulge out of the ground in the spring, exposing themselves. We do not cut the necks of the bulbs.

We fill the furrows with soil and mulch, but do not water. By the way, mulch autumn plantings necessary just before the onset of cold weather. To do this, you can use dry leaves, dry humus, spruce branches, tops of other plants, flower stems, sawdust, pine needles and other material.

In winter, it would be nice to hold snow in the garden so that the onion does not freeze out during severe frosts, more than -20 ° C.

Spring onion care

As soon as the snow melts, we immediately remove the mulching material so that the soil warms up faster. The soil is loosened and in the future it must be loosened after heavy rains and heavy watering. Then you can feed the plantings: add diluted chicken droppings.

The second top dressing can be done no earlier than the leaves appear. And here you can use those drugs that you like to use: antistress agents, immunomodulators and growth stimulants, for example, Plantafol.

How to protect onions from pests

To secure landings from onion fly, around the garden or even inside it, you can sow marigolds and calendula. If you are using chemicals in the fight against the enemy, then remember that you can collect onions for a feather only 7 to 10 days after such processing. You can also sprinkle tobacco dust in the aisles (alone or mixed with lime), this also repels the onion fly. Since there are 2 generations of flies, there should be 2 treatments with an interval of 8 to 10 days.

Important! The first generation of onion fly larvae harms in June, and the second - in July (middle).

As the onion grows on the feather, it is better to take those that have more developed leaf mass, giving the opportunity to grow and develop neighboring, less developed ones. When weeding, you should be very careful not to damage the bulbs with a sharp tool. Wounds on the bulbs contribute to the occurrence various diseases, such an onion is not stored even for a month.

When to Harvest

The signal that the bulbs are fully formed is that the leaves lie down, and the integumentary scales have acquired a characteristic color for the variety, for example, blue or orange, red.
Sometimes the leaves are specially laid to speed up the ripening, but we are not in a hurry, are we? So we wait as long as it takes.

We dig the bulbs very carefully, leave to dry in a ventilated place. Bookmark for storage should be done only after the onion dries well, its leaves and roots become dry.

Important! Immature bulbs or those that have a thick juicy neck are eaten first, they will not be stored.

On the vacant bed, you can plant other vegetables, for example: sow carrots, radishes, turnips, daikon, beets, greens.

The remaining time is enough for them to ripen. Moreover, carrots and beets, for example, are not afraid of light frosts and develop well in cool autumn weather.

In conclusion, I want to note that if in the fall you plant not onion sets, but simply small turnip bulbs, then in the spring you will be unpleasantly surprised, as it will all shoot arrows.

By the way, multi-tiered onions are also planted before winter. This is the name of varieties that are perennial frost-resistant branching plants that reproduce only vegetatively - aerial and basal onion bulbs. The best time for planting a multi-tiered bow is September, the very first days. He then has time to take root, germinate, and also accumulate a supply of the nutrients he needs.

Landing technology is similar to the previous one.

Leek, batun, shallots and other species are also planted before winter. Moreover, onions are planted before winter even in such harsh regions as the Urals and Siberia. True, gardeners there additionally cover the beds with plantings of onions and garlic with spruce branches so that they do not freeze out in a fierce winter.

Ways to plant onions before winter, video

It is very clearly explained which onion is best planted on a turnip in the fall. The secrets of seed planting technology are revealed. The preparation of planting material is explained and optimal timing landing. Thanks to the author, look!

As you know, onion contains a lot of vitamins and phytoncides useful for immunity, it is a natural spice and can enhance the taste and aroma of many products. You need to plant at a distance of 6-7 cm between the bulbs in grooves, the depth of which is 5 cm. The distance between the grooves is 15 cm. Personally, I prefer to plant in holes, and the rest of the parameters remain the same.

Onion varieties for planting for the winter

Agro winter. One of the best varieties for winter sowing.

Azelros. The onion variety Azelros was created at the All-Russian Research Institute of Vegetable Breeding and Seed Production (VNIISSOK).

Ailsa Greig.

An early onion variety with very large bulbs.

Crimson ball. Early ripe (from germination to feather lodging 85-90 days) variety for growing in an annual crop from seeds.

Blonde. Mid-season (from germination to feather lodging 100-120 days) salad variety.


When to plant onions before winter

In autumn, they plant the smallest seedlings, the diameter of which is less than 1 cm. First of all, this is done because such onions very rarely survive until spring. Work is carried out 2 weeks before the start of the first frost. In the ground, these seeds will be perfectly preserved, they will not shoot, and in the spring they will give a good harvest, as a long growing season will pass. Onion preparation before planting occurs in the same way as in spring.

Winter onion growing technique

Before planting, the seedlings must be sorted. It is best to do this in dense material or cardboard, where a hole about a centimeter in size is made. All bulbs that can pass through it should be set aside for planting. To get a good harvest, it is recommended to treat the onion before planting with a warm, weak solution of copper sulfate.

When is it better not to plant onions?

In general, one should be guided by the weather: the onion should have time to grow roots before the onset of cold weather, but sprouts should not be allowed to appear. If you plant a bow ahead of time, it will go into the arrow and die from frost, with a late planting there is a risk that the roots will not have time to develop, and the seedling will freeze in the ground. Some gardeners believe that planting onions in the ground at the end of November is the best solution, but in this case the result depends only on luck.

Onion care after planting in the fall

There is no need to talk about specific planting numbers for onions. Sevok is planted when the earth warms up to a depth of 6-10 centimeters.

If you focus on the weather, then in early and warm spring, planting can be done at the end of April. Onions should not be planted in cold ground. In the spring, after the soil is warmed up by the sun's rays, the garden bed must be prepared for the ripening of the crop.

– Should be removed from crops insulation material by breaking up the soil.

- After about a week, it is worth fertilizing with urea or ash.

- Loosening the soil should be done after rain, watering.

– Timely remove the grown weeds.

- The release of four arrows indicates the ripening of the bulb. During this period, it is necessary to thread the onion and fertilize the soil a second time.


Watering onions after planting in the fall

The frequency of watering onions depends on the weather. If it is quite hot outside, then watering is necessary twice a week. During the ripening period of the bulbs, high soil moisture is harmful. Onions treated for seed have the highest moisture requirement during flowering. The lack of moisture during flowering leads to a decrease in seed yield.

Fertilizing onions after planting in the fall

Fertilizers rich in nitrogen include manure, bird droppings, urea, ammonium nitrate and others. The component included in them affects the growth of onions, its full development. When top dressing is applied, the feather begins to develop intensively. Lack of nitrogen will stunt growth vegetable crop. As a result, the plant will be weaker, and the yield will be low.

Loosening and weeding onions after planting in the fall

Removing weeds on onion plantings is very important to combine with loosening the soil. Weeds suck up nutrients from the soil, preventing the bulbs from ripening. Onions for planting, soak in water at a temperature of +5 C, an average of 10-15 minutes. Next, carry out "shock therapy". Immerse the seeds in cold water again for 10-15 minutes. Thus, it will be more resistant to frost.

The entire set intended for planting. It is necessary to treat with a warm, slightly diluted solution of potassium permanganate. The bulbs are immersed in the solution for 6 hours.

Propagation of onions

The propagation method depends on the type of onion and the gardener's preferences. Some people like to propagate the plant by seeds, someone is more comfortable with the vegetative method.

Cleaning and storage of onions

Onions are harvested when lodging 75 - 80% of the feather. The onion root system is cut with a flat cutter 5–6 cm below the bottom of the bulb two weeks before the planned harvest (10–15% lodging of the tops). After drying, the onions are placed in bags, bags, other containers and sent for use or storage. But before that, bulbs damaged and affected by diseases and pests should be thrown away. All bulbs should be dry, with tightly fitting scales.

Benefits of growing winter onions

  • You can use the smallest set of oatmeal, which cannot be saved until spring;
  • Bulbs take root since autumn, and in spring, with the first warmth, they begin active growth, making full use of the melted moisture;
  • Seedlings gain strength before weeds and before pests become interested in them;
  • The feather of such an onion, as a rule, is more juicy than that of a planted in spring, and the bulbs are larger.

Latest articles about gardening and gardening

Diseases and pests of onions

Onion root mite everywhere damages onions in open and protected ground, storages. Ticks preferentially colonize damaged or diseased plants. These pests are hardly noticeable on onion beds, since the mites are very small (0.5-1 mm). The bulbs are penetrated through the bottom. Spread with the remains of damaged plants, soil, inventory.

Onion western secretive trunk - pest larvae gnaw longitudinal whitish passages in the pulp of leaves, translucent through the skin.

Onion moth causes significant damage to onions, leeks and garlic in warm, dry weather. Damaged leaves, starting from the tops, turn yellow and dry.

The onion fly is a danger to onions, leeks, garlic and other onion crops.

Starting from the end of July, all onion watering should be stopped and the rows should be slightly opened, and in August, when the tips of the feather begin to dry out, the onion plants can be slightly pulled up, partially breaking the connection between the roots and the soil, which contributes to better ripening of the bulbs. When the onion feather lies down, the onion is pulled out of the soil and laid out to dry. After 5-7 days, when the feather dries completely, it is crushed and separated from the bulbs. The whole thick onion with green juicy leaves should be eaten, as it is unsuitable even for short-term storage. Ripe onions are dried for 5-7 days in a room at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, and then for another week at a temperature of 30-35 ° C and with good ventilation. It is advisable to weave the onion dried in this way into braids and hang it. So it is better stored. True, it should be remembered that when growing onions by sowing seeds in one year in our zone, it is rarely possible to obtain a large percentage of mature turnips.