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Stove mastery. Kiln craft. Protection of personal information

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In the old days, specialists in the manufacture of stoves and fireplaces were worth their weight in gold. In large villages, the most important people were considered to be: the priest, the doctor, the blacksmith and the stove maker.

Stovemakers -masons passed on their experience and secrets from generation to generation only to the best students. Some secrets of that time, used in the construction and maintenance of stoves and fireplaces, have survived to time. Here are some of them.

It is best to build a fireplace in mid-summer. After completion of construction, allow 2-3 weeks to dry naturally.

In ancient times, immediately after construction, the fireplace was covered with skins - fur to the stone - for 10 days. It was believed that this way the fireplace would absorb heat from nature

After complete drying, in the hot season, the first heating of the fireplace was done early in the morning from 5 to 7 am. This was considered important for long and good operation of the fireplace.

Clay for making a fireplace was tested in two ways.

The first method: a wooden stick was inserted into a prepared barrel of clay (liquid) and slowly pulled out. The clay should have stuck to it, not slipped off.

Second method: roll a ball out of clay (about 5 cm in diameter) and keep it in the sun for 3 days or in a room for 5 days. Then they threw him onto a wooden floor from a height of one meter. The ball is intact - excellent clay.

It was believed that the longer the clay was kneaded, the more durable the cain would be. Information was received that for “responsible” fireplaces on the royal lands, clay,for 6 months.

Cover the front of the fireplace with a curtain made of chains - then sparks will not be able to enter the room.

1 It is believed that 2-year-old wood burns best.

2 Old masters recommend not throwing potato peelings into a hole, but drying them. By burning a bucket of dried potato peelings once every two months, you can completely clean the chimney of soot and condensation. You can also use aspen for this. This is not as effective, but also gives a positive result.

To give the fire originality, the firewood must be sprinkled with a strong salty solution of water. Then the flames of the fire will give those sitting in the room multi-colored tongues of flame. The same effect can be achieved if you sprinkle the firewood with diluted copper sulfate.

On holidays or special days, small “sheaves” of thin cherry branches are thrown into the fireplace onto hot coals. When burned, this wood releases a pleasant smell that fills the room.

Soot that settles on decorative elements, white parts of marble or on stone, our grandmothers removed with a cloth soaked in lemon juice. You can also use boric acid for this purpose.

Winemakers, boasting to each other about the quality of their wine, poured one glass onto the hot coals of the fireplace and determined the championship by the fire.

Old-timers say that when you have a headache, you need to dip left hand V cold water and wipe her forehead, then comb her hair (1 min), collect the hairs with a damp hand from the comb and throw them into the fireplace (burning or smoldering). And the illness will leave you. Warm yourself by the fireplace and don't get sick

K category: Stove heating

In order to split a brick, you need to know that burnt, unburned and cracked bricks are not suitable for pinning. Bricks selected are of normal firing, without cracks. When struck with a hammer, it produces a clear sound.

For chiseling, it is better to choose a slightly unburned brick.

The water for preparing the clay solution should not contain acid or alkali. Most the best option- use rainwater.

The furnace must be laid strictly according to the drawing and description. Each row must be checked against the drawing and any mistakes made must be corrected immediately. Special attention You need to pay attention to the dressing of the seams, the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the corners.

When laying out the first row dry, a gap of 5-6 mm thick is left between the bricks for a seam. The corners are laid out using a square. Side walls between the corners they lay out exactly in a straight line, which is marked by applying the rule. The walls of the furnace are made parallel to the walls of the building. To do this, the distances from the outer bricks of one side to the walls of the building are made equal. After laying the bricks of the first row dry, outline it with chalk and only then begin laying with mortar.

The horizontality of the first row is achieved in the following way. One of the outermost bricks is placed on the mortar, a thicker layer of mortar is placed under the second brick, and a rule with a level is placed on these bricks. By pressing the second brick into the mortar, “a strict horizontal row is achieved. Do the same with the rest of the corner bricks.

To make the corners plumb, nails are driven into the ceiling in the right places. A cord is attached to the nails, the lower ends of which are tied to nails driven into the seams at the corners. To achieve precise installation, the nails are bent in the desired direction.

Small-sized ovens can be built using retractable formwork. The formwork consists of guide posts made of angle steel, which are installed at the corners, and wooden box without a bottom, 50 cm high. The dimensions of the box around the perimeter are equal to the dimensions of the oven. The box is inserted into the corner posts after laying the first rows, including fire door. Then the masonry is carried out inside the formwork to its top. After filling it, the formwork is moved up and the operation is repeated. If the formwork will be used repeatedly, it is recommended to cover it with sheet steel so that inner surface Retained smoothness longer.

The lining of the firebox with refractory bricks cannot be tied with ordinary bricks on the outer walls of the firebox, because refractory and ordinary bricks have different coefficients of thermal expansion.

Fireboxes and chimneys must not be coated inside with clay mortar.

For better passage of flue gases, the internal surface of the chimneys should be smooth, the corners should be rounded, and the expansions should be smooth.
Burning potato peelings reduces soot deposits in the pipe. Aspen logs are also suitable for this purpose. The draft is checked by burning rolled paper at blower door. With good draft, the flame is drawn into the ash hole.

If the furnace is laid in winter time, the temperature in the room where the work is being carried out must be sufficient so that the solution does not freeze. The solution is made in water at a temperature of 18-20 °C.



- Advice from an experienced craftsman to a novice stove maker

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Archaeologists attribute the appearance of the first stoves for heating homes in Rus' to the 9th-10th centuries. At the beginning of the 20th century. Such an ancient find was discovered in the form of unprocessed boulders folded into a kind of hearth, which were not held together by any mortar.

Historians believe that in this form the stove for heating homes and cooking food existed until the beginning of the 15th century. A step forward in the development of the stove business was the “chicken” stove, that is, a stove that was heated “black”. This means that there was not even a semblance of a pipe to remove the smoke, and it came out through a hole in the ceiling.

Antonis Goeteeris, CC BY-SA 3.0

To build such stoves, no special art was required; most likely, every owner in those days was “his own stove maker.”

Until the 17th century, Russia was heating “the black way,” until one day someone’s “bright head” figured out that the smoke could be somehow directed. At first, they began to install a smoke exhaust hood over the stove - epancha, which was connected to a hole in the ceiling.

Only after about half a century did a through pipe appear, leading the products of fuel combustion directly to the street. This was the beginning of a design that still remains almost unchanged and is called the Russian stove.

To construct such a furnace, you must already have special knowledge and skills. This is how the craft of a stove maker arose.

About the craft

As a rule, one learned to become a stove maker, as they say, “under hand.” At first, the student was taken on as an apprentice, then he could become an independent master. Often, entire dynasties of stove makers arose, where skill was passed from father to son.


unknown, CC BY-SA 3.0

Extraordinary individuals took part in the development of stove construction. Peter I tried to somehow modernize the stoves, borrowing ideas from abroad. Most likely he sent our stove makers there to study.

Mikhail Lomonosov was interested in furnace business and conducted scientific research to improve the furnace design.

Furnaces were modernized and improved. This is understandable, because without heating in cold weather they could not simple people, nor kings.


Hanna Zelenko, CC BY-SA 3.0

Despite the fact that scientific minds were engaged in modernizing stoves, the craft of a stove maker in the 18th-19th centuries remained one of the lowest paid, especially in artels.

In 1865, the architect V.I. Sobolshchikov (1813-1872) wrote the book “ Stove mastery. A book that teaches how a good stove master should work and how to make stoves that will heat and ventilate the room.” In his book, he highly appreciates the importance of high-quality work by a stove maker:

After reading my instructions on how a stove maker should work, an honest master will say: you can work like that, but what should you charge for such work? The answer to this is: do what you should and take what you should.
The stove foreman should be kept in the house, just as a doctor is kept with the family.

The craft of a stove maker became more and more in demand with the development of technological progress, with the construction of factories and factories. We had to build special, special ovens. Of course, the design and diagrams were developed by specialist architects. But it was impossible to do without good stove makers.

This is how the magazine “Professional Advice” describes the modern stove maker:

What is an approximate portrait of a modern stove maker, a master of his craft: a little more than middle-aged.
The stove maker is erudite - he can easily draw an analogy between the stove “century of the present” and the “century of the past.”
A professional stove maker is a competent specialist, a person who has found his calling and value-conscious high-quality, skillful, meaningful and well-done work.

Professional quality

A stove specialist must have a wide range of skills and knowledge:

  • stonemason
  • plasterer-tiler
  • carpenter
  • digger
  • fitter
  • concrete worker
  • locksmith
  • carpenter

And besides:

  • understand heating engineering
  • know how to mix a solution
  • understand the quality of materials

And that's not all. Experienced stove makers joke that they also need to be psychologists in order to talk with customers, and artists, and economists.

Basic Tools

  • A pick hammer is the main tool of a stove maker; it is used for splitting and hammering bricks, and also performs all the functions of a regular hammer.
  • A trowel is another basic tool. Serves for spreading the solution.
  • A rubber mallet is used for upsetting and leveling bricks during the laying process.
  • The building level determines the horizontal laying of the furnace walls.
  • A tape measure is a tool for measuring length-width-height.

In addition - plumb lines, grinding machines, drills and much more.

Craft in our time

The craft of a stove maker can now be called a profession. You can study at special courses, but there are very few vocational schools that train specialists in this area.

At the end of the 1990s, stove makers began to unite in guilds. There is, for example, the Stove Makers Guild of the Moscow Chamber of Crafts, and there is a similar organization in St. Petersburg.

Photo gallery



Helpful information

oven-spreader
stove master
stove - trade in the craft of a stove maker
baking

Chicken hut

The “smoking” stove, that is, the stove fired in black, was the main, and among the peasants, the only heating device for a residential hut. A Russian adobe stove without a chimney and a stove built with your own hands from stone on a clay mortar were called chicken stoves. And the hut is a smoking hut. As the name shows, the chicken stove did not allow a large fire to be built in it due to the danger of igniting the wooden hut.

Decrees of Peter I

The Tsar banned the construction of black huts with smoking stoves in St. Petersburg, Moscow and other large cities. He introduced mandatory cleaning of chimneys from soot, installation heating stoves with deviations from the wall (decree of December 10, 1722) and reduced the cost of making stove tiles. On the initiative of Peter 1, factories for the production of cheap bricks, tiles and stove appliances began to be built in Moscow, St. Petersburg and other cities, and trade opened building materials to build a furnace.

Svizyaev I. I.

The central figure in Russian stove construction in the 19th century can be considered the architect Ivan Ivanovich Sviyazev (1797-1875). The son of a serf, in 1815 he was admitted to the Academy of Arts, and in 1821, after receiving his freedom, the Academy's council awarded him the title of artist-architect.

Since 1834 holds the position of senior architect of the commission for the construction of the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow.
Sviyazev I.I. During the 50 years of his activity, he mainly studied and tested numerous designs of heating equipment, theoretically substantiated the methods of its design, and also invented many original fireboxes and stoves.

Beliefs

In the old days, mystical properties were attributed to stove makers, just like blacksmiths. They tried to appease them and not quarrel with them, since they really could “plant a kikimora” in the house of a stingy owner. This was the name of the doll, a sliver that embodied the malicious and restless “house demon”, well known in the Russian North.

Sometimes, when folding the stove, a hollow bottle or the neck of a bottle, or a squeaking pipe, was imperceptibly built into it. Then, when the stove was fired, sighs and howls were heard throughout the hut - a clear sign the presence of a kikimora, which was usually imagined to live behind the stove.

This kind of tricks, as well as “tales” about these and similar intrigues, are obviously a later rational alteration and reinterpretation of the ancient confidence in the close acquaintance of these “knowledgeable” people with evil spirits.

Stove maker USSR

The practice of developing the stove business in the USSR did not provide for compulsory licensing of stove makers. Stove makers were trained in vocational schools, vocational schools, technical training institutions, organizations that train workers at state expense and have the right to do so, where they were given a certificate of the established form.

In the USSR, stove makers, along with specialists in other construction professions, were assigned categories from 1 to 6, and they worked as part of construction, repair and construction organizations and were not licensed. This gave them the right to engage in furnace business. Furnace business, outside of construction organizations, was “folk art”, or individual entrepreneurship.