How to make a pipe from tin - we make tin pipes with our own hands. How to make a galvanized pipe How to make a tin cover

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Cap - a cap made of galvanized sheet for a brick pillar.

Choose any height "h", or taking into account the dimensions of the finished column. It is sometimes useful to increase the landing dimensions "a" and "b" by 5 - 10 mm, depending on the quality of the masonry. The size "d" can be "estimated" with a tape measure directly on the pole, or count according to the formula below.

* Lay the pattern face up. Drill a hole Ø3.5 mm. Bend the stiffeners (15mm) down by almost 90°. Bend all dotted lines at an angle of 90°. The deflection of the lines should be done in a sheet bender, at least in a home-made one from two corners (it will not be done for long). Then the bending lines will be straight, clear, without dents, and the product will eventually have an aesthetic appearance. If there is no bender, then bend the line "a" and "b" as usual; bend lines "A" and "B" on a piece of corner No. 50 - 63 fixed on the edge of the workbench with the shelf up. To bend plane A or B all at once, or almost all of it, use a bar (picket) 25x45 mm 30-40 cm long.

Bend the edges along the lines "d" to the correct rectangular shape of the cap, umbrella. To do this, have a narrow mandrel: a corner 50 with a cut shelf, or a metal strip 1.5-2 mm thick attached to it, a saw blade is even better.

Check the fit of the upper (closing) stiffener to the back (rear) plane of the cap. Once again check that the product is not skewed; mark with a thin marker a reciprocal hole of 3.5 mm; punch, drill, and fix the assembly with a 3.2 mm rivet.

Bend the planes along the lines "A" and "B" inside the umbrella (into its place), holding it with your hands between a strip of metal (2 mm thick, 40-45 mm wide, ~ 30 cm long); and a bar (fence) 25x45 mm of suitable length. If necessary, seal this bend with a mallet. If necessary, slightly upset the top of the closing stiffener at the top of the cap.

The lower belt of the cap can be omitted from the pattern, but made separately. From a strip of appropriate length and width, bend a rectangle of landing dimensions "a" and "b"; bend the sides in its upper part for rigidity and fastening, and put it inside the cap before the final bending of the planes along the lines "A" and "B". If necessary, secure with a 3.2 mm rivet.

In the manufacture of caps large sizes divide the pattern into two halves, but not along the angular lines "d", but along the midpoints of opposite planes-faces. Connect the halves with two slatted "seams", placing the slats inside the umbrella, with the right side to the connection. A seam seam, especially on dyed material, can (and will) look messy. Do the lower belt for large caps separately.

Outside view of the cap small height- see the drawing of a square umbrella on the "Gas hood" page.

Simplified pole cap with brick belt:

For support legs and metal poles from profile pipes are used in the form of small caps. Plugs are made of thicker metal, usually in the shape of a low pyramid.

See the "Steel Roofing" page for making single and double connecting seams.

The node of the passage of the duct of the exhaust pipe in the roof of the roof.

The box is installed (put on) on a rectangular glass, all sides of which are 3-4 mm smaller than the sides of the box. The glass at the angle of the roof slope is riveted with a sheet of the same color as the color of the roof. It is convenient to draw a pattern of a box and an adjusting cutting glass on one tin sheet. With a small height of the structure, the ventilation (or protective, heat-insulating) duct can be connected directly to the roofing sheet, i.e. without an intermediate glass.

Mark a rectangular hole on the back (not front) side roofing sheet cutting. The dimensions of the sheet should be taken such that with a sufficient margin (at least 20 cm each) to cover the sections of the roof adjacent to the pipes, and cover the part of the sheet from the side of the ridge with the roof sheet from above.

Check the tightness of the glass on the sheet. Mark the reciprocal holes Ф3.5 mm for attaching the tailgate. Remove the glass, drill holes. Before the final installation of the glass on the sheet, apply sealant or any water-frost-resistant glue under the fastening sides. Fix with rivets 3.2 mm tailgate; then side and front.

A glass and a box (already with an umbrella) alternately install (put on) on exhaust pipes for their heat-moisture insulation and improvement of appearance. On the side of the roof ridge in the lower part of the structure, additionally install a bumper corner in front of it to drain flowing water, especially if the flow pressure increases on a steep or long roof slope.

square umbrella and his pattern, pattern round umbrella for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm - on the page "Gas hood".

Umbrella, "chimney", weather vane.

Choose any height of the umbrella. If small sections are cut off in the end parts in their upper corner (along the "K" line), then the "chimney" will have two additional windows for the hood. From above, close these windows with a protruding ridge, the ends of which can be cut off figuratively. According to the level of the same line ("K"), you can make one rectangular window in the upper part of the entire umbrella, which will have to be protected from above with a second umbrella, but smaller. Wind vane - an umbrella with a weather vane, often a combination of two umbrellas of various sizes and shapes is called a wind vane; one of her simple options on this. The pattern of the main (large) part can be divided into two identical parts - along the line of its ridge.

Drill four holes Ø 3.5 mm in two end pieces.

Bend all stiffeners along lines "d" by almost 90°.

Bend the stiffeners 15 mm along lines "A" and "B" by 90 °.

Bend the umbrella along the line of the ridge to the angle of the planes.

Bend all lines *60, taking into account the slope of the umbrella planes.

It is desirable to do bending in a bending machine - even a home-made one from two corners will significantly improve the quality of bending lines and appearance products.

Temporarily fasten the main part to flat surface, maintaining the "B" dimension.

Tightly attach the end piece to the main one. Mark reciprocal holes f 3.5 mm; drill. Fix the assembly with 3.2 mm rivets.

Racks are made from strips of the same material, folding the strip (w. 105-110 mm, length about 40 cm) twice - i.e. in three layers of 35 mm, WITHOUT DISCHARGE along the fold lines to maintain rigidity.

Marking holes for attaching racks to an umbrella:

In size calculationy"3 cm to accept an umbrella for boxes or belts made of tin, 6 cm - for an umbrella for a brick pipe.

Tee for extraction.

Mark and cut a hole in the pattern of the main nozzle "D". The lower drawing shows (as an example) the exact marking of the entry hole d 140 mm to D 150 mm. On the page "Gas hood" there is a drawing of marking the inlet for a tee that combines a diameter of 120 mm with a pipe of 140 mm; and a branch with a diameter of 120 mm, as the most commonly used when arranging an individual gas heating in a private house or apartment.

Marking the inlet with a diameter of 140 mm into a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm:

Prepare the seams, "roll" the socket "D" into the shape of a pipe, but do not connect the seam seam.

Temporarily install the inlet pipe "d" into the rolled up (but not sealed at the seam) pipe "D". Align the mutual position of the nozzles. Branch pipe "d" (inlet) is cut off and cut along the line of the inlet. Bend the bead 8 - 10 mm wide along the cut line on the branch pipe "d" as shown in the figure.
Install the inlet pipe into the tee from the inside of the "opened" through pipe "D", fasten the folds, check the tightness of the adjoining parts. Seal the seam seam, drill reciprocal holes Ø 3.5 mm - fix the assembly with rivets Ø 3.2 mm. If necessary, add any sealing material to the connection line from the inside of the tee: putty, paint, sealant.

When extracting from gas equipment, from a heating boiler or from a water heater, special attention should be paid to the tightness of the connections.

Corners, ventilation outlets and gas ducts.

A simplified method for marking the mate line of the branch links is presented, which, although approximate, but quite applicable in practice, gives a pattern. Reducing the number of retract links (angle) increases distortion and the need for adjustment (cutting) during assembly. Exact patterns of taps are built using descriptive geometry techniques.

Pattern and marking of the mating line of the links of the three-link branch by 90 degrees.

See the exact (in numbers) marking of the curved line for an outlet with a diameter of 120 mm on the "Gas hood" page. The pattern and marking of the line of pairing of links for a five-link bend of 90 degrees is on the page "Tee, bends, transitions". The patterns of the left side of the patterns are mirrored to the right side.

Connect the marking points into a smooth line, mirror the resulting pattern on the right.

Pattern and approximate marking of the interface line of two right angle links:

The pattern is given on the drawing right angle ninety degrees for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Feeder for rabbits.

Pattern for making a bunker-type feeder from galvanized sheet. The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the feeder with a capacity of 3.5 liters of dry bulk feed.

Rivet assembly can be replaced contact welding or spot soldering.

Drill all holes in the details of the first (trial) copy. Make cuts along the edges of the fold lines of the back and inner walls. Bend the fastening boards 15 mm by 90 degrees. Bend the 25 mm line of the rear wall inward by about 135 degrees, shape the feeder tray. Bend the inner and back walls to their working positions using side walls as a conductor. Make sure the holes match. If necessary, correct their location on the details of the following instances. Connect the inner wall with 3.2mm rivets to both side walls. Invest in back wall, install rivets.

Feeder can be supplemented top cover and elements of attachment to the cage.

Drainage funnel, gutter.

Dimensions, figured cut of the top and artistic elements of the water intake funnel - at the discretion of the performer. It is useful to increase the width of the strip for cutting each section of the gutter following the flow of water by 1 - 2 mm.

Due to the large amount of material, some drawings and drawings have been moved to other pages, in accordance with their subject matter.

Patterns of a confuser, a diffuser, a transition from a round section to a round section of a different diameter (bucket), from a rectangular section to a round section, to a rectangular section - are on the page "Drawings, schemes, drawings of the site".

Home builders try to select the best solutions to solve problems. budget options. Therefore, the question of how to make a tin pipe with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a home-made tubular product made of tin can be quite compared with drains or casings that lie on shelves in specialized stores.

Therefore, it is necessary to learn more about the manufacturing process of a tin pipe that has the characteristics of factory products.

Features of the source material

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should get to know the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that these are rolling products, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, tinplate manufacturing technology involves the processing of finished rolled products from the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the actions performed is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is plastic, so tin can be easily processed by hand. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength with steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex design.

Required Tools

The list of tools and fixtures necessary for making galvanized chimney pipes with your own hands is due to the properties of tin, in particular softness and plasticity. The processing of this type of material does not require any special effort, which is necessary for working with sheet materials.

Therefore, in the production of tin pipes for the chimney, the following set of tools is needed:

Scissors for cutting metal. This tool makes it easy to cut sheet material into the desired pieces, since the largest thickness of the sheet reaches 0.7 mm.
Soft-faced hammer. You can also use wooden mallet, mallet, or steel tool with soft rubber lining. However, the latter option is used very carefully or not taken at all, as it can cause deformation. thin sheet tin and ruin all the work.
Pliers. With the help of this tool, they solve the question of how to bend a pipe from tin, because it is steel, although it is thin, therefore, it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
Crafting table. This device is necessary when cutting material and when marking.
Calibrating element. This can be a tubular product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well fixed, since a butt joint will be riveted on their surface.

In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a scriber, which is a steel rod with sharp sharpening.

Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands

The manufacture of tin products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:

Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a tin sheet.
Forming involves forming the profile of a pipe or other product.
In the final, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

And now more detailed description each stage of the manufacture of tin pipes with their own hands.

Preparatory stage

First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, along which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut off from a certain tin sheet, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the tin is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the upper edge. This is where the marker is placed.

Then, using a square, a line is drawn along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. At the same time, about 1.5 cm are added along both edges to form the connecting edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.

To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can recall a school geometry course.

How to make a pipe body out of tin

The purpose of this stage is to form a pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and at the top, along which the folds will be bent. At the same time, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is placed on a steel corner, combining the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.

Now, on a fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to make a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to make sure that the upper fold is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing the folding line of the fold, 0.5 cm is measured on one side once, and on the other side, twice 0.5 cm each.

After forming the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, the workpiece sheet is placed on the sizing element and they begin to tap with a mallet or other the right tool to get a profile of a particular shape. First, the workpiece takes U shape and then becomes round. In this case, the folds must be joined together.

Processing the junction of the folds

The final stage involves the processing of the butt joint, that is, its crimping. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich, located perpendicular to the pipe. To get a docking seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.

For greater reliability, the butt joint is strengthened with rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this docking method do not need additional reinforcement.

August 9, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair ( full cycle holding finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Making a tin pipe with your own hands is a great alternative to buying an expensive drain or ventilation hood. In practice, the savings are enormous, and if you consider that having mastered the technology, you can literally “stamp” pipes of any (well, almost any) diameter, then read my advice and at least try to implement them in practice, it’s definitely worth it!

Below I will talk about what we need to form a pipe, and also describe the algorithm by which I have been successfully bending products for five years now.

What do we need to work?

Tin as it is

So, let's start our review of technology with an analysis of the material. We will bend the pipe from tin:

The basis of the tin sheet is steel that has been processed in a rolling mill. As a rule, sheets from 0.1 to 0.7 mm are found on sale - the thicker, the higher the price.

To protect against corrosion, the steel base of the tin blank is coated with a material that prevents metal oxidation. Most often, compounds of chromium, tin and zinc are used for this.
On final stage the product is cut according to standard sizes. Most often in construction stores tin blanks are sold in widths from 512 mm to 2 m, but if necessary, you can find or order wider parts.

Such a metal has obvious advantages:

Small thickness reduces weight tin products.
Surface treatment effectively protects the steel base from corrosion in contact with environmental factors.
Thin metal is cut well, while processing does not require very powerful tools- hand scissors are enough.
Rolling and heat treatment of blanks in the production of tinplate provide them with high plasticity. Thanks to this, sheets and strips can be perfectly bent along the minimum radius without the risk of cracking.

The reverse side of the tin is low bending strength, therefore, in the manufacture of open parts, stiffeners are necessarily introduced into their design. However, this does not apply to our situation: the pipe itself holds its shape perfectly.

Tinsmith's tools

As I have already noted, tin is a soft and plastic material, which is processed quite simply. But this simplicity also has a drawback: a metal tool not only leaves marks on the surface of the sheet metal, but can also damage the protective layer upon impact, provoking the development of corrosion.

That is why the following tools are used to work with tin and thin galvanized steel:

metal scissors. I use the most common, spring-loaded, with not very long handles - with relatively little effort, they perfectly cut 0.7 mm steel;

It is very important that the scissors blades are sharp, otherwise the edges of the blanks will turn out to be uneven, and we will have to spend time and effort on removing the “fringe”.

hammer with a rubber/rubberized striker. Why rubber is needed is already clear - in order to prevent metal from hitting metal;

mallet - in principle, performs the function of a hammer with a rubber nozzle. Both tools are interchangeable, which does not prevent me from having both a mallet and a hammer at my disposal;

pliers (several pieces, different sizes). They are used for bending metal, since it is impossible to grasp the short edges of a sheet or strip with fingers, despite all the plasticity;

calibrating blanks - steel pipes (I have two, with a diameter of 50 and 100 mm) and corners. They are used as templates for bending round and rectangular parts, respectively;
measuring instruments - ruler, tape measure, level and compass;
scriber - a pointed steel rod that is used to mark tin sheets. You can buy, you can sharpen a “dvuhsotka” nail.

a workbench is the most necessary thing. The workbench performs the functions of a place for marking a cutting stand, a desktop - in general, it is on it that we will perform all the work.

Of course, this set will only be enough for us to make several pipes - up to two or three dozen. If the work is to be large-scale, then you can’t do without at least a bending machine - a device that allows you to evenly bend large metal blanks.

Work technology

Step 1. Preparation

Instructions for making a pipe from tin begin with a description of the manufacture of the workpiece:

On a workbench or other flat surface, roll out sheet metal, if necessary, leveling it with the help of mechanical influences.
We measure the length and width of the pipe, applying chalk, marker or marker to the material. When marking, we take into account that the width of the workpiece should be equal to the circumference of the pipe + 1.5 ... 1.6 cm for the formation of the seam.
We control the perpendicularity of the drawn lines with the help of a square.

We take scissors and make first a lateral and then a longitudinal incision. You need to cut strictly along the lines, trying not to make large indents. If the cut line “walks” - problems may arise at the stage of seam formation.
Once again, we align our workpiece. If necessary, we tap the edges to remove waves and process them, cleaning them from burrs.

Step 2. Forming the pipe

Now we need to make a round pipe from the workpiece. And at the first stage we form a profile:

On one side of the part, we draw a folding line of the fold at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
On the other hand, we draw the same line at a distance of 1 cm.

We lay the workpiece on a steel corner and bend the folds perpendicular to the plane of the sheet. For bending, we use a mallet, if necessary, correcting the metal with pliers.

I usually do this: first I grab the metal with pliers, forming a bend about 2-3 cm wide. After the direction of deformation is set, I change the pliers to a mallet and continue to work using a steel template as a support.
When working according to the template, we do not apply excessive efforts, otherwise we risk damaging the material and “combing off” part of the protective coating,
Further, the bent fold 1 cm wide is divided in two in width and the bend is repeated. Now we need to bend a strip 0.5 cm wide parallel to the main workpiece.

Now we form the pipe profile. We lay the workpiece on the calibrating surface and tap on it, first arching the arc, and then a full circle. The smoother it is, the better - the less you have to mess around at the final stage of work.

Step 3. Processing the joint

Now we need to form a seam that will turn our blank into a pipe itself:

The folds, bent perpendicular to the main part, are combined, tightly pressing against each other.

We bend the horizontal part of the long fold so that it wraps the combined parts.
We lay the resulting three-layer structure on a workbench and carefully tap it, compacting it well. At the same time, we make sure that there are no distortions that will adversely affect the strength of the structure.

We bend the seam from the folds assembled together to the pipe wall. We put the product on the calibration blank and tap the joint again. The resulting connection is perfectly kept without any fasteners due to the plasticity of the tin.

in the manufacture of pipes large diameter, experiencing significant loads, the width of the folds can be increased, and the joint can be additionally reinforced with rivets.

Conclusion

I hope that in the above material I have explained in sufficient detail how to make a tin pipe with my own hands. If any of the operations is difficult, you can always either watch the video in this article or ask me a question in the comments. Of course, I won’t bend metal instead of you, but I will definitely help with good advice!

Every residential or even country house, baths not connected to the central heating system are supplied with a heat generating device. To get out of interior The products of fuel combustion in the furnace are connected to the smoke exhaust channel. The most affordable option is a galvanized chimney; in hardware stores, the price of 1 m of a pipe made of this material is about 110 rubles. If you add to this the cost of rotary elements, deflector and brackets, installation will cost a tidy sum. However, in this article we will tell you how to cut costs by 60% and how to make a chimney from steel pipe with your own hands.

The advantage of shop models of galvanized steel chimneys is that manufacturers produce a wide range of sizes. In addition, among the factory products you can find double-circuit, equipped with thermal insulation, corrugated, with increased flexibility and single-circuit. When making a homemade chimney, you have to limit yourself to only single-circuit pipes. In order for the smoke exhaust system to work effectively, the following parameters should be taken into account:

Important! A sheet of galvanized steel measuring 2500x125 mm in construction stores costs about 600 r, with proper cutting, 8.75 m of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is obtained from one sheet, the cost of 1 m is approximately 68 rubles, which gives 60% savings!

Manufacturing

To make a pipe from a sheet of galvanized steel, you will need a rubber or wooden mallet of sufficient weight to bend the metal. In the process of work, scissors for cutting metal, a long ruler, a scriber for marking, a corner and a “gun” for bending are used. The bending process is as follows:

Note! The chimney device requires rotary parts, which are made by cutting straight pipes at an angle. If the pipes are cut at an angle of 75 degrees, then when joining, a turn of 150 degrees is obtained, if at an angle of 45 degrees - a turn of 90 degrees. To improve the efficiency of a homemade chimney, it is wrapped with non-combustible thermal insulation material.

Advantages

With the advent a large number factory products for the assembly of galvanized steel chimneys, the need to make pipes with your own hands has decreased. However, homemade pipes allow you to reduce costs and find the ideal diameter. In addition, they are used to equip gutters, so the ability to make pipes with your own hands is useful in everyday life. Metal chimneys in comparison with others have the following advantages:

A light weight. Smoke exhaust channels made of homemade galvanized pipes weigh much less than brick or ceramic ones. Therefore, it is not necessary to equip a foundation, the cost of pouring which exceeds the cost of material and installation work.
Fire safety. According to building codes, steel chimneys are completely safe in terms of fire. High quality metal can withstand heating up to 900 degrees, so it is suitable even for solid fuel stoves and fireplaces.
Low cost. Steel chimneys are the most democratic way of organizing smoke removal, the installation cost is several times lower than the installation of brick and ceramic counterparts.
Easy assembly. A chimney made of galvanized steel is assembled without difficulty with your own hands according to the instructions, which saves money spent on hiring professional workers.

Important! The efficiency of smoke removal depends on the correct assembly of the chimney. Experienced craftsmen it is advised to choose a predominantly vertical configuration with the least number of turns. Each rotary element is an obstacle in the way of smoke, reducing the traction force.

Assembly rules

To properly assemble a chimney made of galvanized steel, you must first mark out the layout and laying of the pipe. From this drawing, determine how many pipes are needed and cut into sections of the required length. Assembly is performed as follows:

Note! The smoke exhaust channel is brought to the roof at a distance of 30-50 cm from the ridge. To ensure the level of traction, the skate should be 50 cm higher. Incorrect placement on the roof can cause back draft or wind backwater.

Video instruction

Tin is a material that belongs to rolling products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion agents.

In order to make such a pipe you will need only 2-3 tools

For heating equipment, you can independently make tin pipes for the chimney. This material elastic, so processed by hand. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

What tin to choose

Before making a pipe out of tin, a suitable one is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin is black and white. The black material type is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steels of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed by electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method endows the steel with rust resistance and ductility.

Production is accompanied by the control of the composition of substances. The method of processing and content affects the receipt of material of different grades.

The white type of tinplate is treated to improve the surface for adhesion with lacquer coatings.

Lacquered tin is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material is of the following types:

the single-rolled sheet is a mild steel product that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
the metal of double rolling after the first rolling procedure is subjected to the second rolling and special lubrication, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to the degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipe has technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed

Before doing tin work, it is worth picking up a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheet with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but getting started, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

Metal scissors are used to cut the segment into blanks.
A mallet is used or rubber mallet that doesn't leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
Pliers or tongs are used to make bends.
Recommended machines for tin work. A workbench is suitable, which allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it out.
For calibration, a thick-walled tube and a corner are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in the manufacture of the longitudinal seam of the line.
A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen a nail.
A measurement tool is recommended. Roulettes and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round part to assemble the product. For this, a pipe with a cross section of 90 mm and not too long is recommended.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself cap

To make a pipe from a sheet of iron means to perform a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular section is created. When connecting, it is required to fix the elements into one product.

Adapters for connecting pipes made of tin

You can make markup and preparation in several stages:

The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. Suitable for this flooring or workbench.
A segment is marked from the upper edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. Marking is performed by a marking device. Manufacturing also takes place.
A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
From the line, the width of the segment is marked, which is equal to the cross section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut.

When marking, it is worth considering the size of the product. Width is the size of the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Do-it-yourself work with tin is done as follows:

The folds are bent to the surface of the sheet at a right angle. Previously, line markings are made under them. mallet. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to desired length and with the help of a rubber mallet, a bend is made. Work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
Do-it-yourself tin pipe involves another bend on the fold. This does the markup.
A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

The bends are made so that the mallet fits exactly on the surface of the corner. The blows are made precise and clear, but not strong, otherwise the seam will flatten.

The production of tin products is completed by docking. In this case, the edges are aligned, and

seam is attached. Wherein horizontal section bends down and covers the edge. The protruding seam is bent to the surface with a mallet. The bend is performed away from the l-shaped fold. If you do otherwise, then water will penetrate inside.

Do-it-yourself tin products need to be connected. The edges are fastened with aluminum or steel rivets.

Holes for rivets are made every three centimeters.
The edges bend towards each other.
The workpiece is folded back so that the edges are on the outside of the structure.
The edges are mounted with rivets.

To facilitate the connection of the structure, the element in the wide side should be slightly flared. To ensure rigidity from the edges of the product. Proper marking contributes to ease of docking with other elements, even factory-made.

Similar products are used for gutters, ventilation systems and chimney structures.

Features of working with tin: how to bend a sheet of iron and cut it

To create products from tin with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of working with this material. Recommendations will help facilitate installation and create a design in the shortest possible time.

To give the tin sheet the necessary shape will allow an element of the appropriate configuration. Flexion performs tapping using a hammer.
To make the fold even, tapping is carried out close to each other.
Facilitate the cutting of a workpiece from steel will help special loop leather. This element is mounted on scissors and put on fingers.
After cutting, the edge is processed with a plow, which is prepared from hacksaw material.
Tin products sometimes need to be cut. This is done to give a curly shape to the product. This procedure is performed with a can opener.

In order for the material to be cut well with a knife, it is filed with a hacksaw, and then a knife or scissors is used.

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Tin work is simple and you can do it yourself. The ability to make such a design is useful in everyday life. A tin pipe is made simply, the main thing is to know certain nuances of the process.