Gate posts made of metal pipes. Stages, terms and methods of construction. Video: an example of hand-made up-and-over doors

The construction of any fence begins with the installation of the supporting part - the pillars. The more reliably they are installed, the longer the fence will last under the influence of winds and bad weather. That's why this stage works - the most responsible and must be carried out according to technology. After reviewing it, you can confidently put up poles and build a fence with your own hands without the involvement of hired workers and equipment.

Mounting methods of supports - which one to choose?

When erecting fences, 3 methods of installing support structures are practiced:

direct driving into the ground;
partial concreting;
complete concrete pouring of the underground part of the rack, including the device strip foundation.

Note. In turn, partial concreting is carried out in two ways - pouring the so-called concrete collar or filling the well below the soil freezing line.

Pole installation options

Each of these methods is used in certain conditions, depending on the quality of the soil, their saturation with moisture and the degree of freezing. In addition, the choice of technique is influenced by vertical and lateral loads created by the weight of the structure and its windage. For solid fences important rule: they must withstand wind loads well, which sometimes exceed the mass of the fence.

Load on a solid fence from a profiled sheet

The simple driving of columns into the ground allows you to speed up construction and significantly reduce the cost of it. In contrast to these advantages, the method has numerous disadvantages:

A post driven into soft or loose soil (chernozem, clay, sand) will quickly loosen by the wind and tilt when solid fence sections with a large windage are attached to it. The latter include corrugated board, polycarbonate and various wooden boards.
If the height of the fence exceeds 2 m, then the wind will turn out the clogged column in any case, even together with a mesh that is transparent to the air flow - chain-link.
In areas with clayey moist soil that swells when negative temperatures, such supports will crawl out of the ground by 5-10 cm in the very first winter. After which they will finally be tilted by the wind.
After driving, the column is not able to carry a large load by weight. Metal structures or artistic forging elements cannot be attached to it.

Heavy wrought iron fence

From the foregoing, it follows that the driving of racks can be used under the following conditions:

when hard or rocky soils lie on your site;
driving into soft ground is possible if the height of the fence does not exceed 1.5 m, and the spans are made of mesh - chain-link or other material transparent to the wind;
if it is necessary to quickly erect a temporary fence;
during the construction of wicker or low decorative hedges near flower beds and front gardens.

To fence the front garden, the posts can be hammered into the soil

Concreting will require a lot of labor, time and money. Just curing the concrete will take you 3 weeks, not to mention buying the ingredients to prepare the mix and finding a concrete mixer. In return, you receive the following bonuses:

durability (the fence will stand quietly for 30-50 years, depending on the material);
proper concreting is applied on all types of soil;
strengthening with a concrete mixture is suitable for all types of fences, including heavy ones (stone, brick, metal structures, forging).

Fence with brick pillars

Note. Racks cannot be concreted in marshy, oversaturated moisture soil. But in such situations, driving will not save either, you need to arrange a pile-screw foundation.

It turns out that the choice of method for mounting racks depends on the conditions in each case. Driving saves time and money, but is not always applicable. Concrete is used everywhere and provides reliability and durability for any structure, although it is more expensive. On stable dry soils, the cost of construction is reduced due to the partial concreting of the supports.

Pole materials

For the installation of a fence erected around land plot, the following types of pillars are used:

from a wooden beam and a log;
from various rolled metal - profile and round pipes, channels and corners;
from brick and concrete.

wooden fence

Reference. Channels and corners are used both singly and double, welded into a "box".

Usually, wooden racks are installed when erecting a fence made of slabs, boards or thin logs (palisade). It is also convenient to use them together with a plasticized mesh or chain-link mesh. The advantages of wood poles are:

low price;
ease of processing and fastening of intake sections;
fracture strength of the material, lack of flexibility, like metal;
supports can be given a wonderful appearance by carving, varnishing or painting.

Palisade with wooden supports

The use of wood as fence posts has one significant drawback - the material quickly deteriorates from the effects of weather conditions. So that the wooden rack does not rot in 10-15 years, it will have to be treated with an antiseptic and periodically painted. There is also the danger of a fence igniting from an accidentally thrown cigarette butt.

Rolled metal - one-stop solution for the construction of various fences, but also more expensive. Although steel pipes also need to be protected from corrosion, they will last much longer than wooden racks. Sections of various materials starting from wood and ending with forging elements. Steel racks are also used in the construction of capital fences - they serve as the core of a brick pillar, to which wickets and gates are subsequently welded.

Steel pipe serves as a frame for brick supports

Reference. For quick assembly of a fence made of corrugated board and polycarbonate, ready-made sets of metal profile pipes and fasteners to them.

Eurofence with concrete pillars

Concrete pillars are installed in a set with the so-called eurofence, consisting of separate slabs, decorated with a relief pattern. In other cases, it is impractical to use concrete supports due to the high price and complexity of installation (the racks are quite heavy). But they also “live” for a long time - up to 50 years, they are not afraid of winds, precipitation and temperature changes.

Selection of columns by section

timber with a section of 10 x 10 cm, minimum - 8 x 10 cm;
log with a diameter of 100 to 150 mm;
for a palisade it is better to take round timber maximum size- 15 cm.

For pillars, it is desirable to choose logs of the same diameter

When choosing supports made of wood, you should pay attention not only to the cross section, but also to find out the type of wood. Birch and poplar are of little use for outdoor structures, as they quickly rot. The best choice in terms of price / quality ratio are materials from conifers. They contain a significant amount of natural resins that help resist environmental influences.

Profile pipes for the fence

When choosing metal poles, consider the following recommendations:

with a fence height of 2-2.5 m, take a section of a profile pipe of 60 x 40 mm, products of 40 x 40 mm in size will go to a one and a half meter fence;
the optimal diameter of the round pipe is 57 mm;
the maximum size of the corners and channels installed one by one, take equal to 90 and 160 mm, respectively.

Scheme indicating the section of pipes

Advice. In order for steel supports to last at least 20 years, choose rolled metal with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm.

The pillars to which the gate leaves and the gate are attached carry an increased load, so their cross section should be larger. As a rule, the size of profile pipes 100 x 120 mm or round diameter 109 mm is sufficient. The cross section of channels and corners remains unchanged, but for gates they are combined in pairs by welding into a “box”.

Calculation of the main parameters for do-it-yourself installation

Measure the total length of the fence with a tape measure. Determine the height of the fence for safety reasons and based on personal wishes. As practice shows, it is not economically feasible to build a solid fence with a height of more than 2.5 m. Optimal Height, allowing to save materials, - 2 m (a six-meter pipe is divided into 3 parts).
Determine the height of the pillars. The principle is this: to create a reliable support arm in the ground, the rack must be immersed in the ground by at least 1/3. If it is planned to build a 2-meter fence, then at least 1 m of the support must be in the ground, then its total length will be 3 m.
Count the number of columns depending on the interval of their installation.

Fences with a height of more than 2.5 m are best made from mesh

Advice. On preparatory stage it is worth coordinating the construction with neighbors so that later there will be no disputes over the demarcation of sites.

It is important to choose the correct installation step for the supports, depending on the area and windage of the fence. The distance between the posts should be between 2 and 3 m. It is not advisable to take a smaller interval from the point of view of economy, and a larger one sharply reduces the reliability of the structure. The exact selection is made on an individual basis.

Solid fence with an optimal distance between posts of 2.5 m

Calculation example for a fenced area length of 13.4 m with a fence height of 1.5 m:

If we divide this distance into 4 sections, then the step of the pillars will be 3.23 m. With such a span, the fence can be built of brick or chain-link mesh on metal pillars. It is highly undesirable to install a profiled sheet or other solid material, the racks will be shaken by the wind.
A breakdown into 5 sections will give the optimal interval - 2.56 m. This suitable option for most fences, both wooden and metal.
If you divide the distance by 6 spans, then the length of each will be 2.12 m. The reliability of such a fence will be at its best, although the cost of construction will increase. But here you can save on the cross section of the pillars and take a smaller standard size according to the assortment.

Example of splitting into 4 spans

Advice. The optimal distance between the posts of a solid fence 2 m high is 2.5 m. This the best option in terms of price / reliability when it comes to the most popular fences made of corrugated board on metal supports.

Example of splitting into 5 spans

If you choose the optimal step of 2.5 m, then the construction of the fence will require 6 supports protruding 1.5 m above ground level. According to the calculation, the total length of the rack, together with the underground part, is 1.5 / 2 x 3 = 2.25 m, with a margin of 2.5 m. In total, 2.5 x 6 = 15 m of a pipe or channel will be required.

Split into 6 spans

Reference. In concrete eurofences, a fixed span length is provided - 2 m, so it will not be difficult to calculate the number of pillars.

How to install fence posts by driving

For execution construction works you need various tools and fixtures:

measuring instruments - tape measure, liquid level;
long string and pegs for marking;
manual or mechanized drill;
sledgehammer or portable hydraulic hammer;
bayonet shovel;
tamper.

If you plan to install wooden posts, then they must be processed so that they do not rot in the ground. First, cover the entire support with an antiseptic composition such as Novotex or Biosept, and then tar the underground part with molten bitumen.

Advice. The bituminous coating must adhere firmly to the surface, otherwise it will peel off when driving the post. For this reason, it is not recommended to use cold bituminous compositions and primers.

Painted metal supports

The underground part of the metal poles before installation must be cleaned of rust, coated with a primer and also applied with hot resin. The operation will not take you much time, as the bitumen hardens pretty quickly.

Work order

The first stage of installation of the supporting part of the fence is marking. Stretch the string between the extreme points on the stakes, and then measure the calculated intervals between the posts along it, marking the points of their installation. The installation technology is as follows:

At the designated points, drill wells of the estimated depth. The diameter of the drill should be less than the section of the column by 2-4 cm. When drilling, try to keep the tool vertical and not swing, so as not to break the walls of the pit, which is why the stand will fall there without any clogging.
ends wooden poles it is desirable to hem, so it is more convenient to insert them into the hole.
Seal the bottom of the well with a rammer and add some sand or fine gravel.
Hammer the first post with a sledgehammer to the required height. Here you will need the services of an assistant who will support the end of the support and prevent it from vibrating from impacts.
Repeat the previous operation with the last column and pull the rope between them to beat off the top level.
Hammer the rest of the racks, focusing on the level of the twine. Sprinkle them with earth from all sides and tamp it down.

Marking the fence on the site

Important! To maintain a clear vertical when installing pillars, it must be controlled during the drilling process. It is impossible to level the support when driving if the hole is drilled crooked. But if this happened, then you can fix the matter in the way described below.

Photo instruction for driving racks

When driving, the column must be supported by an assistant Drilling a hole with a drill It looks like a finished well for driving
With the help of driving, the frame is placed in 1 day

Installation of poles with backfill

To implement this method, you will need medium-sized stones, broken bricks and tiles, or large gravel. The installation procedure is as follows:

Drill or dig a hole to the required depth. It should be 10-15 cm wider than the cross section of the support.
Tamp the bottom of the pit and sprinkle with gravel. Ask an assistant to set up a post and hold it upright using a building level.
Fill the space between the soil and the post with stones or rubble, periodically tamping it down.
Sprinkle the installed column on top with earth and compact it.

Scheme of backfilling supports

Reference. There is an old grandfather's way to fix the support tightly with the help of backfill. It is necessary to make a liquid solution of clay with water and pour it between the stones into each hole. Clay will fill all the pores and after hardening it will hold no worse than concrete.

Video on driving posts

Instructions for concreting supports

This technology provides for full or partial pouring of columns with M100 concrete mix in dry soil and M150 when the ground is wet. To calculate the amount of materials required for concreting, use the data from the table, which shows their volumes for the preparation of different brands of mortar.

Calculation table for concrete, cement and other ingredients of the concrete mix

Knowing the number of holes for supports and their depth, it is easy to calculate the total consumption of building materials. With full concreting, no more than 4 standard buckets of concrete are placed in a well with a depth of 1 m. Additionally, prepare the following materials:

roofing felt or polyethylene film to isolate the concrete mixture from the ground;
sand for backfilling at the bottom of the well;
pieces of reinforcement or corners for anchoring.

Building materials for concreting pillars

The set of tools used is the same as for driving, only instead of a sledgehammer you will need a concrete mixer. IN last resort you can do without it and prepare the mixture on a sheet of metal using shovel. To perform the fixation and anchoring of metal posts, you need to prepare welding machine.

How to Concrete: Step by Step Pouring Technology

The first stage of work, consisting of marking and digging holes, is carried out according to the technology described above. Full concreting of pillars is performed in the following sequence:

Seal the bottom of the pit, fill it with sand and tamp again.
Install the support and align it vertically in two planes, using the building level.
Fix the pipe in the design position by welding the corner pieces to it so that their ends rest against the soil. If the posts are wooden, then nail planks to them or simply wedge them with large stones.
Cover the bottom of the well and earthen walls with roofing material or film. The goal is to prevent milk from flowing out of concrete, which reduces the strength of the latter.
Prepare the concrete mix and lay it in the pit with the post. In the process of pouring, make sure that it does not deviate from the vertical, that it is even.

Complete concreting of the column

Advice. In the first 20 min. after pouring, when the concrete gives off excess water, the position of the column can be corrected in order to align the vertical.

Vertical correction after concreting

Complete solidification concrete mix happens after 3 weeks. Until then, it is not allowed to carry out work that could load the posts. The best you can do is clean and paint them.

Fixing the rack with props With the help of a rope it is more convenient to determine the mounting point of the pole Preparation of concrete mix

About partial concreting: how deep to dig in and what is the distance between the columns

If the soil in your area is dry and not loose, then it is pointless to spend materials on a full fill. It is enough to make a concrete collar for each column using this technology:

Dig a hole half of the calculated depth, but make it 20-25 cm wider than the section of the rack.
Take the finished support and hammer it in the middle of the bottom of the pit to the required depth. Compact the soil around the pipe and sprinkle with sand.

The method is convenient in that it is easier to align the rack half-hammered into the ground vertically and fix it in this position. But this technology, like full concreting, is not applicable in heaving soils. In severe frosts, the soil will push out the entire structure. To prevent this from happening, use the following instructions:

Find out exactly how deep the ground is frozen in your area. Calculate the total height of the supports using the following formula: above-ground part + freezing depth + 0.5 m.
Prepare a mixture of crushed stone and sand to replace the heaving soil around the post.
Drill a well so that the drill goes 0.6-0.7 m below the border of the frozen soil. Make a bedding of 10 cm of sand and compact it.
Install the support and fix it in a vertical position.
Fill the hole with concrete to a height of 0.5 m.
After setting the monolith, fill the well to the top with a mixture of sand and gravel.

Concrete is poured no higher than the freezing limit, and then crushed stone is poured

Note. Considering that in some regions of the Russian Federation the soil freezes by 2-2.5 m, the intake posts will turn out to be very long, and the well will be deep. Therefore, the choice of material for the pillars is small, only steel pipe is suitable.

When the moisture-saturated soil is replaced with gravel, and the concrete monolith is located below the freezing line, frost heaving forces will not be able to push your support out of the ground.

How pillars are concreted correctly - video

As you can see, the technology for installing fence posts does not contain any particular difficulties. Also, special equipment is not required to perform the work, but with a concrete mixer or hydraulic hammer, things will go much faster. It is better to build a fence with an assistant, since most operations are inconvenient to do alone.

The gates installed at the entrance to the suburban area are distinguished by the variety of designs of the materials used and have different functionality. The main types of gates for summer cottages and suburban areas include lifting, retractable and swing. Most common swing gates. Compared to other types, they are quite simple to install and their installation is less expensive. Swing gates can be made from various materials, decorated with a variety of decorative elements. Assembly and installation of this type of gate can be done independently.

On suburban area there is a need to install a gate. They increase your level of security and are definitely a beautiful addition to your home.

In order to properly manufacture and fix reliable gates that perform their functions well on supports, it is first necessary to make Assembly drawing(sketch) designs.

It can be done on paper or on a computer screen. At this stage, the dimensions of the structure corresponding to the operating conditions are calculated. Are determined design features devices, list and quantity of necessary materials. The sketch should show the gate leaves in the closed and open positions to accurately display the dimensions. The main tools that will be needed for work: a welding machine, a grinder, a square, a tape measure, a building level.

Installation of support poles

Methods for installing pillars: 1 - driving in; 2 - combined; 3 - concreting; 4 - crushed stone.

The most important operations during the installation of the gate are the installation of supports and hanging leaves on them. As support pillars for gates, it is possible to install steel pipes (from ø100 mm), I-beams or channels with a shelf width of at least 100 mm.

The depth of the foundation for the support pillars depends on the nature of the soil of the site, the weight of the sheets and should be at least 1.5 m. The foundation of the supports will experience constant dynamic loads when the wings move and gusts of wind. It must also withstand the impact of the soil during abrupt transitions from a thawed state to a frozen one. When pouring the foundation, one should take into account the geological features of the soil, which were taken into account when erecting buildings on the site. In any case, the base of the foundation must be installed below the freezing depth of the soil.

Before installing the supports, you should consult with specialists to select their design and dimensions. The installation process itself is carried out in the following sequence.

Holes of a certain depth are dug for laying supports. Their diameter must be larger diameter pipes or sections of pillars not less than 10 cm.
A layer of gravel, broken brick or small stone is poured at the bottom of the pits. The pillars are installed in pits and set strictly vertically in level with the installation of props or welding of the retaining beams perpendicular to the supports.
Concreting of the base is carried out with control of the verticality and alignment of the pillars. With a heavy load, the foundation must be made reinforced.
After installing the pillars, before hanging the sashes, it is necessary to withstand the foundation until it hardens for 28 days.

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Gate leaf manufacturing

For the manufacture of the sash frame, a square (rectangular) profile with a section corresponding to the weight of the structure or corners is used. Corners should have shelves from 40 mm wide. Cloths of gate can be made of sheet iron or a grid. At preliminary calculations need to determine what is needed additional elements(gate, hinges, lock, deadbolt, lugs for a lock, etc.). It is desirable that the sashes swing open 180 ° when opened. If possible, it is better to open the wings outward to save the usable area of the site.

Sheets of corrugated board are most often used as a door leaf.

Door leafs are welded on a flat horizontal surface in compliance with the diagonals and right angles of the structure. The sash frames are made according to the dimensions on the sketch, taking into account the width of the opening between them, the gaps between the leaves and the indents from the supporting pillars. On average, the total width of the valves is not 30-35 mm less than the width of the opening. If mesh gates are provided, scarves are welded at the corners of the frame. Welding the corners with an overlap will make the structure stronger, but spoil its appearance.

For the manufacture of gate valves, a steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm is used. The leafs welded to the frame should protrude beyond its edge from above and below by 1-2 cm. In the middle of the gate, the edge of the leaf of one leaf overlaps the frame of the other. To sheet material didn’t work, he first grabs at the corners of the frame at the midpoints of the canvases. Then, with spot tacks, after 10-15 cm, the sheets are completely welded. After completion, the welding seams in the corners are cut off to avoid thermal deformation in the future.

For sheets made of steel sheet, if necessary, reinforcement can be made with stiffeners. During assembly, there should be no holes through which moisture can enter the structure. After assembling the structure, a preliminary fitting of the sashes to the opening is done. Bars are placed under the sashes, the correctness of the calculation of the gaps is checked. The proposed location of the loops is marked with chalk.

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Welding hinges to gate leaves

The process of welding hinges to sashes and supporting posts requires special precision. The size and number of loops is selected depending on the weight of the canvases. Massive gates are best hung on 6 loops. The smooth running of the valves will ensure the use of bearing hinges. For the chosen one, the so-called garage hinges are suitable, the core of which has a diameter of at least 12 mm. The rod must enter the cavity of the counterpart of the hinge with a minimum clearance. The presence of backlash can be determined by moving the hinge assembly to a break.

Straight hinges are welded to the door frame before installation in the following order:

the sash is laid on the boards or the assembly table strictly horizontally;
the upper part of the hinge with a cavity is applied to the chalk marks, a flat planed board should be placed under it in order to properly position the hinges;
a gap is maintained between it and the frame by inserting a plate certain thickness under half the length of the loop;
the loops are tacked with alignment between them;
in the same way, the upper parts of the hinges are attached to the second leaf.

The gate is an important part of the fence. Through them, the entrance to the territory, the import of necessary things is carried out. They perform not only a protective and permeable function, but also act as an element landscape design. Therefore, it is so important to install neat, presentable canvases and gate posts that emphasize the design style of the site.

According to the rigidity of the structure, the pillars under the gate are distinguished:

intensive use. The entrance structure is often a product with massive doors, bolted / electronic lock. The opening in this case is 5-8 m, and the weight of the wings is from 0.5 to 4 tons. Industrial and commercial bases are equipped with such gates. Supports to them should ensure the stability and evenness of the location of the valves;
periodic use. They act more as an enclosing than a protective structure and are equipped with a chain or a barrier. Racks for them should not meet any increased requirements, except for ensuring the strength and performance of the input group.

Which gate posts to choose according to the material of manufacture? The most common are:

wooden racks. These are the first supports that people began to use when building a fence, but over time they were replaced by more modern, wear-resistant materials. Due to the low bearing capacity, susceptibility to decay, damage by insects, the need for regular additional processing, wood is very rarely used as gate posts.

Features of installing supports for swing / retractable structures

Sliding gates are an entrance structure with canvases that move on rollers along a rail fixed on the ground. They are convenient in that they allow you to completely open the opening for the passage of overall transport and provide the opportunity automatic control. Poles for sliding gate can be made of any material, the main thing is that they be concreted to the depth of soil freezing (from 1 m).

Important: brick and concrete supports should not have voids inside. Their strength is increased by metal mortgages, which are fixed inside each rack. Also, in the pillars of the sliding gate, a supporting bracket, a leaf catcher are installed.

The most common gate design is swing gates. They are easy to install and operate, but are subject to wind loads. If you fix them incorrectly, over time they will deform, become poorly closed and look unattractive. Therefore, it is important to correctly install the pillars for swing gates.

For their construction, a profile pipe is used, wooden bars, concrete. The supports are cemented in the ground for at least 1 m. Brick / stone posts are additionally reinforced to increase their strength. A channel or professional pipe with a cross section of at least 10x10 cm is laid inside them. Metal corners are welded to the rod, which are brought out for fastening the loops.

Installation of supports for the entrance structure

So that the canvases do not walk, do not sag over time, you need to know how to properly install the gate posts. The basis of reliable installation is a strong foundation, a rigid connection between the supports, which is carried out:

at the top of the racks;
on the crossing line;
underground.

The connection between the racks is carried out by laying I-beams between them and fixing all structural details by welding.

Note: at the entrance to the site of overall transport, the upper jumper between the supports can be made removable.

If the entrance structure is planned to be built into a brick fence, the installation of the gate posts will be different. First you need to calculate the number of racks for the entire fence. Markings are made on the ground - pegs are hammered first in the corners, and then every 1.2-1.5 m from them.

Tip: it is better to draw this diagram on paper, this will allow you to make accurate calculations.

Installing brick supports is a laborious process that requires a certain amount of time. First you need to fill the foundation for each pillar, and then carry out the laying. For work you will need:

brick (full and hollow);
sand, cement, crushed stone;
water;
shovel, level.

The basis for gate can be the general (tape), or separate. In the first case, they dig a trench along the location line input structure. Its bottom is covered with a layer of rubble, and then a reinforced concrete screed is formed.

In the second case, according to the scheme and markings, they dig holes for supports. Having reached the sandy layer, you can start concreting them. For this, a mixture of sand, gravel, cement and water is prepared in a ratio of 3: 3: 1: 1. It is poured into the pit until it is level with the ground. The drying of the foundation is carried out throughout the day. After this time, you can lay the waterproofing and start laying.

How to put supports if the soil is not sandy? To do this, holes are made with a depth of 0.8-1 m. A dense sand cushion is formed at their bottom with a 20-cm layer, then concrete is poured.

There is another way to lay the foundation for. To do this, the pits are completely filled with rubble. Sand is poured over it, which is washed with a stream of water. So it will fill in the small gaps between the stones. Finishing stage- pouring concrete.

Installing the metal base

To increase the resistance of brick pillars to the loads attributable to the gate, a metal rod (profiled pipe or reinforcing bars) is used. This base should be fixed in the foundation at the stage of pouring concrete. It will strengthen the structure, increase its rigidity.

Remember: the rod must be longer than the brick support. It is deepened into the ground by 1/3 of the size.

Installation of mortgages

If you equip brick supports with only a metal insert inside, then this design by itself will be useless. This will not provide the input structure with sufficient strength. It is necessary to additionally make mortgages for the gate in a brick pillar. They are formed from:

corners;
channels;
pipes.

These elements are driven into the lower and upper parts of the support. Then a channel is welded to them.

Tip: If you are unable to perform this action yourself, there are alternative way. In the channel, you can pre-make holes for mortgages, and after joining the parts, they can be additionally attached by welding.

For high poles (from 2 m), a third channel is required. Its length should correspond to the gate opening. This channel is buried in the ground along the line of the canvases, its ends are welded to the two previous ones and poured with a concrete mixture.

Note: it is possible to strengthen the structure with a fourth channel, which will pass on top of the pillars. For its fastening, special "ears" are provided.

Execution of brickwork

After the concrete has hardened, the construction of the pillars begins. They are formed into 1.5 bricks. The first rows are recommended to be made of solid blocks, the rest of the hollow ones. The evenness of the masonry is checked with a level. To maintain the same seams, square steel bars of small section are used.

The voids formed inside the pillar are filled with pebbles and poured with concrete. This increases the strength and stability of the structure. In the process of masonry, mortgages are installed for fastening the gate. How to weld them?

The first mortgage is fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the foundation. It should move away from the inner metal rod and protrude slightly beyond the end of the post. To fasten the gate to brick pillars, you need to make 6 such mortgages. Upon completion of the masonry, the seams are laid out to give the structure a more accurate, presentable appearance.

Fastening gates to posts

How to weld the gate to the posts? To do this, you need to hang loops on them. It is not recommended to weld them directly to the mortgages, since the load on the elements may be different, which will lead to deformation of the structure. How to do it right?

To do this, use a channel or other rolled metal, which are welded on both sides of the gate to the brackets connected to the pole. After that, loops are attached to these elements by welding. Install poles for the gate in the same way.

With pillars made of brick, not only a reliable, but also a beautiful element of the fence of the site. If all technological aspects are observed during the installation of supports, fastening of the wings, such a design will last for many years without losing its appearance and functionality.

Before we talk about how to install swing gate posts, let's highlight the product - gate posts. There is always misunderstanding with gate posts. Basically, there is disagreement whether to consider gate posts as part of the gate itself or not. For some reason, many Customers are 100% sure of this and are perplexed when they are explained that this is not so. The client believes that the gate, in principle, cannot exist only in the form of two separate wings, and even more so without welded gate hinges. Or another extreme, when the Customer still admits the existence of such a complete set of gates without poles, but it should be quite cheap. Of course, it is easiest to direct such a Customer to further search for the gate he needs and not save his nerves for explaining elementary things that are axioms for the gate manufacturer. But the fact that there are no extra Customers is a fact. The opinion that swing gates must be completed with gate posts is completely groundless. Like, if there are gate leaves, and they cannot hang in the air, the gate hinges must be attached to something, and if so, then the gate posts must also be included in the set of gates. Such logic at the expense of the gate can only be for a person who is very far from construction work, does not represent the technology for installing the gate and the sequence of installation of products when erecting a fence. In reality, gate posts are installed much earlier than the gate itself, and it is the dimensions of the gate that will be taken from these posts. That is, the gate posts are already ready and look good, but the gates themselves are not even in the sketches. Posts for the gate, it is more correct to say, part of the fence configuration. An intelligent builder erecting a fence is always interested in where the gates and gates will be. And he always begins work with the installation of pillars for gates and gates. And then he lays brick or other material.

Installation options for posts for metal gates

Installing gate posts is not an easy job. If you do not have experience in correctly installing gate posts, then the result will be disastrous. The gate posts will tilt over time, the gate will wedge or stop working properly. All this can be avoided. What you need to know before you start installing gate posts.

The first is to pay attention to the material of the gate posts. suitable material will be thick-walled rolled metal. For example, a hot-rolled channel 14, 16 or a smaller channel, pre-welded into a box. Metal posts for gates can serve as profile pipes with a section of 100 x 100 mm and a wall of at least 5 mm. The thicker the pipe wall, the stronger the gate post.

Secondly, in the design of metal gate posts, lower crossbars must be present at the base. IN ideal, the post before concreting should rest on the cross of the corner 50, 63. And the other cross should be sunk 100 - 200 mm from the ground. The length of the crossbars of the cross varies from 500 mm to 1 meter.

Thirdly, this is the obligatory concrete pouring of the base of the metal pillars for the gate. At the same time, the gate post must be installed at a depth of at least one and a half meters, and somewhere more. It all depends on the composition and properties of the soil where the gate posts will be installed.

Fourth, do not neglect pouring into the gate post, liquid concrete mortar. This will allow the hollow pipe to be converted into a strong reinforced concrete pole with external reinforcement, thereby achieving the most rigid pole design possible.

Fifth, it is more reliable if the foundation of the gate posts will be part of the general foundation of the fence. And concreting during the installation of pillars for the gate will be carried out simultaneously with the general pouring of the foundation.

Sixth, it is more expedient to provide an additional fastening between the gate post and the fence in its upper part. If you are laying out a brick fence, then the brick pillar inside which the gate post is hidden must be additionally tied with a thick metal strip with the fence itself. It often happens that a brick pillar bends from the load of the gate and breaks away from the fence masonry, forming a crack between them.>

Seventh, sometimes, in difficult clay soils, it is impossible to install gate posts in a strictly vertical position and fix them securely. In this case, you need to use additional upper and lower crossbars (lintels) between the goalposts. The lower lintel is made of metal, similar to that used for gate posts, and is buried in the ground to a depth of 300 - 400 mm. In the future, a normal passage is arranged on top of the lower jumper. The upper crossbar is installed along the upper ends of the gate posts. Of course, the upper jumper will not add beauty and neatness to the gate, but this is a necessary measure and very effective. The upper crossbar must be made removable to ensure passage in the case of a tall car or transportation bulky cargo through the gate.

How to install gate posts is a much more difficult task than it might seem at first glance.

If it is quite enough for the fence that the pillars simply stand and do not fall, then the gate is a mechanism for the coordinated operation of which, it will be necessary to observe a certain position of both of its wings.

Therefore, the installation of pillars for is the most difficult and important task in their construction.

According to the rigidity to the pillars, all the gates can be divided into groups:

Gates that are locked with a deadbolt, electronic lock; gates with heavy doors; gates that can be damaged by passing trucks.
Gates that are locked with a chain or barrier.

Products of the first type are usually placed where they often need to be opened and closed - for example, at the entrance to a large trading base. Usually such a passage has a significant width - about five.

And in some cases - and more, so that two cars can easily pass, up to eight meters wide. The sashes in this case can weigh from 500 kg to four tons.

Yes, and in a private house, many will want to have gates that close with an electronic lock - they can be opened and closed without getting out of the car or just look out the window who has arrived and open the gate for him without leaving.

Before you install gate posts, you need to know that the most stringent requirements are imposed on them here. They must ensure the reliable operation of the bolt mechanism, the stable position of both wings relative to each other.

Gates that are locked with a chain do not impose any special requirements on the rigidity of the pillars.

The chain, although it does not provide sufficiently reliable protection against penetration, will still be an obstacle to the penetration of thieves.

Here it will be enough to ensure sufficient strength of the poles themselves - after all, when using the gate, it is still possible that they will be hit by a trailer when.

It will not be superfluous to also ensure the maintainability of the pillars. Barriers also do not impose any special requirements on the poles. An exception is electronic barriers with beam fixation when lowering on the stop.

In this case, the same requirements are imposed on the pillars as for the gates of the first type. In addition, they should be stronger - the barrier at the entrance is easier to miss in the dark than closed gates. The disadvantage of gates that are locked with a chain is that you have to open and close them manually.

Gate material

Definitely the most best material for pillars today is a metal pipe - round or square. It has not too much mass so that the pillar can be put up by one or two people without the use of technology. Pouring concrete inside the pipe or filling with lime will create an electrochemical positive potential on the surface of the pipe and increase rust resistance by several times, in addition, products from galvanized pipe can be ordered.
The second option is reinforced concrete. For heavy gates, this is not very good - constant bending, cyclic loads, the likelihood of an accidental dynamic impact by the side of the trailer or wheel will quickly render them unusable. Reinforced concrete poles are much more suitable for a fence. Brick pillars have the same drawback - except when there is a metal pillar inside, and the loops are attached directly to it with the help of external anchors, through the thickness.
Finally, the third option is wood poles. Wooden giants will be rather exotic and are used quite rarely - due to low resistance to decay and low bearing capacity.

Installation of posts for gates with deadbolts or heavy gates

To install gate posts so that they do not walk, you can only make a reliable foundation and ensure their rigid connection with each other. Communication can be made at two points - at the bottom of the entrance, at the crossing through the gate and at the top of the pillars. Usually they are welded together at these two points, laying two I-beams between them.

But for the upper fasteners there is a rather serious limitation - sometimes it may be necessary to pass vehicles that exceed the dimensions of the pillars and the upper beam in height. Therefore, the latter is made removable.

When equipping the entrance to your own site, when you plan to drive only your car, it is quite possible not to make a solid foundation for the gate, but to make separate ones for each pillar. At the same time, the pillars are simply welded in the lower part with a thick I-beam, and the same beam is made on top, but removable, inserted into the welded nests and having welded pins for insertion.

Thus, you can safely enter and leave on your own, while good stable work will be ensured. electronic lock and the opening mechanism, and the skew of the pillars can be avoided.

However, this does not negate the laying of the foundation for each pillar separately, which must go below the freezing depth for such gates. A concrete platform is usually made in the entry zone. It will be very good if the I-beam, which is welded between the pillars below, will be thicker than it. In a layer of concrete, it will be reliably protected from rust, since concrete gives a slightly alkaline reaction of the environment and prevents the oxidation of the metal.

For heavier gates, it is necessary to make a solid foundation. Usually it is made in the form of the letter "H" with a cross bar strongly elongated horizontally.

The foundation is usually poured solid,. Its depth should be below the freezing depth. Everything is done according to the same rules as the construction of a strip foundation for a house. The thickness of the foundation grillage is about 50 cm. Theoretically, 30 cm will be enough, however, a width of 50 allows you to save on formwork and pour the foundation into a gap with the walls of the trench.

Near the pillars, extensions-buttresses are made in both directions, perpendicular to the entrance. Usually, even for heavy gates, a buttress in the area of \u200b\u200bthe column with a total length of one meter is enough. The foundation is reinforced before pouring.

Between the pillars at the bottom of the entrance, near the surface, an I-beam is welded. Then it is poured into concrete, together with reinforcement - the concrete will be for it reliable protection from.

At the top of the pillars, it is desirable to install an I-beam. Considering that usually heavy gates require large and heavy posts, the beam must match.

It will be difficult to remove and put it in place - you will have to fit it every time crane. Therefore, it is better to immediately lay a significant margin in height in the pillars and simply weld the beam tightly to them, once and for all.

Poles for the gate

Using the same technology, you can install posts for gates and gates - with the difference that the posts here can be taken thinner, it is enough to put round ones with a diameter of 50 mm or square ones with a width of 50 mm, wall thickness - 3 mm.

It is undesirable to take a smaller wall thickness - it will be difficult to weld hinges to thin metal, and this will affect the durability of the gate.

Considering that 2.5 meters is enough for a person to pass, the poles can be connected without any fear at a height of 2.5 meters by welding a cross member.

The second bundle is at the bottom, where the entrance is. It is desirable to concrete it so that it does not rust. The standard width of the gate is 90-120 cm. You can freely enter such a passage in winter clothes, and with a baby stroller, and even bring a wheelbarrow with earth.

How to concrete gate posts - on the video:

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You will need

- pipe Ø100 mm;
- corner 100x100 mm;
- angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
- welding machine;
- cement;
- sand;
- edged board and timber for formwork;
- carpentry tool;
- shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instruction

Cut out the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a pipe Ø100 mm or a corner 100x100 mm. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For standard gates, it is assumed to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut off one corner flange on both sides at an angle of 30 ° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well against the uprights when they are welded.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more even place for this. It should look like the letter "H" - two racks and a jumper laid between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: the parallelism of the racks between themselves and the perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the uprights. Both shelves of the corners must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will play the role of reinforcement, firmly connecting the jumper to the foundation.

Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). Required depth trench is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, level ground water. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

fabricate wooden shields from edged board and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is desirable to make the walls of the formwork slightly expanding towards the bottom - in order to avoid the expulsion effect of the soil on the foundation.

Place the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the racks or lintel and secure the racks on both sides with stops. Lay reinforcement from any type of metal in the formwork - wire, metal profile scraps, etc.

cook sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken brick. During pouring, tamp the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be flush with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

When the territory of the site is fenced off, the question always arises of the need to install a gate. They come in several types: swing, retractable, opening in one direction or lifting. You can install on your own only hinged or opening in one direction gates. The rest are installed on special structures with the participation of specialists in this field.

You will need

- hinges
- bolts or welding machine
-pillars
- flat bar

Instruction

In summer cottages and in private houses, swing doors are usually installed gates. This design is the presence of two wings, welded from iron or made from tesa. In some cases, carved or forged gates.

To install the gate, dig in the pillars by measuring the manufactured doors. Poles can be installed iron or wood. Fill both of them with cement mortar for strength and reliability.

Hinges can be welded to poles and gates m or fasten using bolts. Store hinges are not suitable for installing gates. They are unreliable. Order powerful homemade hinges at any turning organization or purchase from a market that sells homemade parts. They should be on a ball mechanism, which will make it easy to open gates without making any effort.

The most difficult process is the installation and fixing of the gate. It is impossible to carry out this procedure alone, because the doors made of any material are quite heavy. They need to be hung at a distance from the ground that does not prevent them from opening.

Place a block of the desired size down the gate along the length of both wings. Install one sash on it and weld or screw the hinges. First it is done from above, then from below.

The second gate leaf must be installed in accordance with the first one and welded or hinged. And do the same. First, the hinge is screwed or welded from above, then from below.

If you installed a bar, then both wings should be at the same distance from the ground so that distortions do not occur when they are closed.

Related videos

The owners of their own plots try to install such gates so that they are both beautiful and comfortable, and would fit well into general design. Wood structures are considered the most accessible and simple to implement.

Those wishing to make their own wooden gate First you need to draw up a design drawing. This helps to more accurately represent the scope of work, to purchase the necessary materials in advance. When drawing up a drawing, you must try to ensure that all the details and structural elements are in full accordance with each other.

How to install gate supports

From wooden beams you need to make vertical supports. Their value must be calculated as follows: add another meter to the height of the gate for deepening. The greater the depth at which the supports are installed, the more stable and durable the structure will be. So during the operation of the gate, the likelihood of warping is reduced.

Remove debris from the place intended for the installation of support poles. Dig holes - their diameter should be 20 cm larger than that of the supports. Tamp the bottom of the hole and make a cushion of rubble. That part of the column that will be filled with concrete must first be treated with a compound that will protect the wood from decay - for example, bituminous mastic. Use a plumb line to check the verticality of the post. The pit with the installed post must be filled with concrete and wait until it dries.

Gate manufacturing

To make one of the goal posts, you will need one bar for the top and bottom, two bars for the side posts, two for the middle lintel. The calculation of the dimensions for the gate is done depending on the size of the machine. All parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.

The frame parts are laid out on a flat surface, holes must be drilled at the joints. Pins are inserted into them - they give rigidity to those places where the parts are connected. In the middle of the frame, jumpers made of timber are installed. At the corners, jibs are attached, which are bars with cuts at the ends at an angle of 45 degrees.

When calculating the height of the frame, it must be taken into account that the sheathing boards should protrude 20 cm from below and from above. The boards must be prepared before sheathing - cut to the dimensions required by the calculation and work with a planer. They can be attached to the frame and tightly to each other, and with certain step. After all the sheathing boards are installed in place, the top must be cut and stripped sandpaper. Now hinges are attached to the sashes - for this, self-tapping screws with screw threads are used. Self-tapping screws can also be used to fix the mounts to the racks.

The distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground must be at least 5 cm. Closed gates are fixed with latches, latches or locks - the owner chooses the method. It is better to paint the gate in assembled form.

Related videos

The fence is an important element of the fence. During its construction, it is necessary to determine what kind of supports it will have. Its reliability and longevity depend on it. pillars can be wood, metal or concrete. Once you've made your choice, get to work.

You will need

- pillars;
- cord;
- pegs;
- saw;
- drill;
- gravel;
- bitumen;
- wedges.

Instruction

Installation of poles for fence start by marking the fenced area. Do it with string. Correctly calculate the number of posts, crossbars and canvases.

Hammer in stakes at the posts. Once again, check the correctness of the intended line. The pegs should be strictly on the marking step. A crooked fence will not be strong.

Mark the height of the pole. She must be taller than herself. fence by a few centimeters. Considering the underground part, saw off the excess.

Chapter: Country construction and landscaping

I remember in my school years we joked: “Where are you after school? To the fence-building institute? And when they grew up and took up cottages, they realized that building fences is not khukhr - muhr. Here you really need to use your brains to build a normal fence, once and for all, so that it doesn’t cause trouble.

Fence posts.

The choice of the type of pillars depends on the financial capabilities and the concept of "beauty" of the owner. And the range here is from wooden stumps, then brick from front brick with forged elements.

Wooden poles are simple, but alas, they are no longer cheap (if you don’t “buy” them in a nearby forest) and are very short-lived. Even being washed out by the most evil antiseptics, they are unlikely to last more than 10 years. If you still decide to use wooden posts, then you should carefully pickle them with a solution blue vitriol. Then you can count on at least 10-12 years. Therefore, wooden posts are used in front gardens, low hedges, and temporary fences.

Asbestos-cement pipes are inexpensive (relatively), quite technologically advanced and durable, not subject to decay. Their only drawback is that it is difficult to fix lags to them. You have to go out and come up with all sorts of clamps and girths. But if this issue is resolved, asbestos cement pipes - a good choice. Another disadvantage is this. When installed on clay soils with poor drainage and in the absence of a protective "umbrella" on the pipe, it turns into a mini-well and draws water into itself. And when frost hits, the pipe, as they say, “cuts off”. It bursts just by the level of water in it. Therefore, it is imperative to close the pipes from above from moisture.

Prepare a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. During pouring, tamp the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be flush with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

You will need

- hinges
- bolts or welding machine
-pillars
- flat bar

Instruction

To install the gate, dig in the pillars by measuring the manufactured doors. Poles can be installed iron or wood. Fill both of them with cement mortar for strength and reliability.

Hinges can be welded to poles and gates m or fasten using bolts. Store hinges are not suitable for installing gates. They are unreliable. Order powerful homemade hinges from any turning organization or purchase from a market that sells homemade parts. They should be on a ball mechanism, which will make it easy to open gates without making any effort.

Place a block of the desired size down the gate along the length of both wings. Install one sash on it and weld or screw the hinges. First it is done from above, then from below.

The second gate leaf must be installed in accordance with the first one and welded or hinged. And do the same. First, the hinge is screwed or welded from above, then from below.

If you installed a bar, then both wings should be at the same distance from the ground so that distortions do not occur when they are closed.

Related videos

The owners of their own plots are trying to install such gates so that they are both beautiful and comfortable, and would fit well into the overall design. Wood structures are considered the most accessible and simple to implement.

Those who wish to make their own wooden gates first need to draw up a design drawing. This helps to more accurately represent the scope of work, to purchase the necessary materials in advance. When drawing up a drawing, you must try to ensure that all the details and structural elements are in full accordance with each other.

How to install gate supports

From wooden beams it is necessary to make vertical supports. Their value must be calculated as follows: add another meter to the height of the gate for deepening. The greater the depth at which the supports are installed, the more stable and durable the structure will be. So during the operation of the gate, the likelihood of warping is reduced.

Remove debris from the place intended for the installation of support poles. Dig holes - their diameter should be 20 cm larger than that of the supports. Tamp the bottom of the hole and make a cushion of rubble. That part of the column, which will be filled with concrete, must first be treated with a compound that will protect the wood from decay - for example, bituminous mastic. Use a plumb line to check the verticality of the post. The pit with the installed post must be filled with concrete and wait until it dries.

Gate manufacturing

When calculating the height of the frame, it must be taken into account that the sheathing boards should protrude 20 cm from below and from above. The boards must be prepared before sheathing - cut to the dimensions required by the calculation and work with a planer. They can be attached to the frame and tightly to each other, and with a certain step. After all the sheathing boards are in place, the top must be cut and cleaned with sandpaper. Now hinges are attached to the sashes - for this, self-tapping screws with screw threads are used. Self-tapping screws can also be used to fix the mounts to the racks.

Related videos

You will need

- pillars;
- cord;
- pegs;
- saw;
- drill;
- gravel;
- bitumen;
- wedges.

Instruction

Installation of poles for fence start by marking the fenced area. Do it with string. Correctly calculate the number of posts, crossbars and canvases.

Hammer in stakes at the posts. Once again, check the correctness of the intended line. The pegs should be strictly on the marking step. A crooked fence will not be strong.

Mark the height of the pole. She must be taller than herself. fence by a few centimeters. Considering the underground part, saw off the excess.