This is my first handmade CNC machine. available materials. The cost of the machine is about $170.
I dreamed of assembling a CNC machine for a long time. Basically, I need it for cutting plywood and plastic, cutting some details for modeling, homemade and other machines. My hands itched to assemble the machine for almost two years, during which time I collected parts, electronics and knowledge.
The machine is budget, its cost is minimal. In what follows, I will use words that ordinary person may seem very scary and it can scare away from self-built machine, but in fact it's all very simple and easy to master in a few days.
Electronics assembled on Arduino + GRBL firmware
The mechanics are the simplest, plywood frame 10mm + screws and bolts 8mm, linear guides from a metal corner 25 * 25 * 3 mm + bearings 8 * 7 * 22 mm. The Z axis runs on an M8 stud and the X and Y axes on T2.5 belts.
Spindle for CNC homemade, assembled from a brushless motor and collet clamp+ toothed belt drive. It should be noted that the spindle motor is powered by a 24 volt main power supply. The specifications indicate that the motor is 80 amps, but in reality it consumes 4 amps under serious load. I can’t explain why this is happening, but the motor works fine and does its job.
Initially, the Z axis was on self-made linear guides from angles and bearings, later I redid it, pictures and description below.
The working space is about 45 cm in X and 33 cm in Y, 4 cm in Z. Given the first experience, I will make the next machine with large dimensions and I will put two motors on the X axis, one from each side. This is due to the large shoulder and the load on it when work is carried out at the maximum distance along the Y axis. Now there is one motor and this leads to distortion of the parts, the circle turns out to be a little elliptical due to the resulting deflection of the carriage along X.
The native bearings of the motor quickly loosened up, because they were not designed for lateral load, but it is serious here. Therefore, above and below on the axis I installed two large bearing with a diameter of 8 mm, this should have been done immediately, now there is vibration because of this.
Here in the photo you can see that the Z-axis is already on other linear guides, the description will be below.
The guides themselves are very simple design, I somehow accidentally found it on Youtube. Then this design seemed to me ideal from all sides, a minimum of effort, a minimum of details, simple assembly. But as practice has shown, these guides do not work for long. The photo shows what kind of groove formed on the Z axis after a week of my test runs of the CNC machine.
I replaced the homemade Z-axis rails with furniture ones that cost less than a dollar for two. I shortened them, left a stroke of 8 cm. There are still old guides on the X and Y axes, I won’t change them yet, I plan to cut parts for a new machine on this machine, then I’ll just disassemble this one.
A few words about cutters. I have never worked with CNC and have very little experience in milling. I bought several cutters in China, all have 3 and 4 grooves, later I realized that these cutters are good for metal, other cutters are needed for milling plywood. While new cutters cover the distance from China to Belarus, I am trying to work with what I have.
The photo shows how a 4 mm cutter burned on 10 mm birch plywood, I still don’t understand why, the plywood is clean, and on the cutter there is soot similar to pine resin.
Further on the photo there is a 2 mm four-start cutter after an attempt to mill plastic. This piece of melted plastic was then very poorly removed, biting off a little bit with wire cutters. Even at low speeds, the cutter still gets stuck, 4 grooves are clearly for metal :)
The other day my uncle had a birthday, on this occasion I decided to make a gift on my toy :)
As a gift, he made a full house of plywood. First of all, I tried to mill on foam plastic in order to check the program and not spoil the plywood.
Due to backlashes and deflections, the horseshoe was cut out only from the seventh time.
In total, this full house (in its pure form) was milled for about 5 hours + a lot of time for what was spoiled.
Somehow I published an article about the key holder, below in the photo is the same key holder, but already cut on a CNC machine. Minimum effort, maximum accuracy. Due to the backlash, the accuracy is certainly not the maximum, but I will make the second machine more rigid.
And I also cut gears out of plywood on a CNC machine, it's much more convenient and faster than cutting with a jigsaw with my own hands.
Later I also cut out square gears from plywood, they actually spin :)
The results are positive. Now I will develop a new machine, I will cut parts already on this machine, manual labor practically comes down to assembly.
You need to master the cutting of plastic, because work on a homemade robot vacuum cleaner got up. Actually, the robot also pushed me to create my own CNC. For the robot, I will cut gears and other parts from plastic.
Update: Now I buy straight cutters with two edges (3.175*2.0*12 mm), they cut without severe scuffing on both sides of the plywood.
A set with which you can assemble your CNC milling machine.
Ready-made machine tools are sold in China, a review of one of them has already been published on Muska. We will assemble the machine ourselves. Welcome…
UPD: file links
I'll post a link to the review anyway. finished machine by AndyBig. I will not repeat myself, I will not quote his text, we will write everything from scratch. The title only lists a set with engines and a driver, there will be more parts, I'll try to give links to everything.
And this ... I apologize in advance to the readers, I did not specifically take photos in the process, because. at that moment I was not going to do a review, but I will raise a maximum of photos of the process and try to give a detailed description of all the nodes.
The purpose of the review is not so much to brag as to show the opportunity to make an assistant for yourself. I hope this review will give someone an idea, and it is possible not only to repeat, but also to make it even better. Go…
How the idea was born:
It so happened that I have been associated with drawings for a long time. Those. my professional activity is closely connected with them. But it's one thing when you make a drawing, and then completely different people bring the design object to life, and it's quite another when you bring the design object to life yourself. And if with building things I seem to be doing okay, then with modeling and other applied arts, not really.
So for a long time there was a dream from an image drawn in AutoCAD, to make a whack - and it is in kind in front of you, you can use it. This idea slipped from time to time, but could not take shape in anything concrete, until ...
Until I saw REP-RAP three or four years ago. Well, the 3D printer was very interesting thing, and the idea to collect myself took a long time to take shape, I collected information about different models about the pros and cons different options. At one point, by clicking on one of the links, I got to a forum where people were sitting and discussing not 3D printers, but CNC milling machines. And from here, perhaps, the hobby begins its journey.
Instead of theory
In a nutshell about CNC milling machines (I write in my own words intentionally, without copying articles, textbooks and manuals).
A milling machine works exactly the opposite of a 3D printer. In the printer, step by step, layer by layer, the model is built up by fusing polymers, in a milling machine, with the help of a cutter, “everything superfluous” is removed from the workpiece and the required model is obtained.
To operate such a machine, you need the necessary minimum.
1. Base (body) with linear guides and transmission mechanism (can be screw or belt)
2. Spindle (I see someone smiled, but that's what it's called) - the actual engine with a collet into which a working tool is installed - a milling cutter.
3. Stepper motors - motors that allow controlled angular movements.
4. Controller - a control board that transmits voltage to the motors in accordance with the signals received from the control program.
5. Computer with installed control program.
6. Basic drawing skills, patience, desire and good mood.))
The points:
1. Base.
by configuration:
I will divide into 2 types, there are more exotic options, but the main 2:
With movable portal:
Actually, the design I have chosen, it has a base on which guides are fixed along the X axis. A portal moves along the X-axis guides, on which the Y-axis guides are located, and the Z-axis node moving along it.
With static portal
This design also represents itself as a body, which is also a portal on which the Y-axis guides are located, and the Z-axis node moving along it, and the X-axis is already moving relative to the portal.
By material:
body can be made from different materials, the most common:
- duralumin - has a good ratio of mass, rigidity, but the price (just for a hobby homemade product) is still depressing, although if there are views on the machine for making serious money, then there are no options.
- plywood - good rigidity with sufficient thickness, low weight, the ability to process with anything :), and the price itself, a sheet of plywood 17 is now quite inexpensive.
- steel - often used on machines with a large processing area. Such a machine, of course, must be static (not mobile) and heavy.
- MFD, plexiglass and monolithic polycarbonate, even chipboard - I also saw such options.
As you can see, the design of the machine itself is very similar to both a 3D printer and laser engravers.
I deliberately do not write about the designs of 4, 5 and 6-axis milling machines, because. on the agenda is a homemade hobby machine.
2. Spindle.
Actually, spindles come with air and water cooling.
Air-cooled are cheaper in the end, because. for them it is not necessary to block an additional water circuit, they work a little louder than water ones. Cooling is provided by a rear-mounted impeller, which at high speeds creates a noticeable air flow that cools the motor housing. How more powerful engine, the more serious the cooling and the greater the air flow, which may well inflate in all directions
dust (shavings, sawdust) of the workpiece.
Water cooled. Such a spindle works almost silently, but in the end, anyway, the difference between them in the process of work cannot be heard, since the sound of the material being processed by the cutter will block it. There is no draft from the impeller, in this case, of course, but there is an additional hydraulic circuit. In such a circuit, there must be pipelines, a pump for pumping liquid, as well as a place for cooling (radiator with airflow). Usually not water is poured into this circuit, but either TOSOL or Ethylene glycol.
There are also spindles of various capacities, and if low-power ones can be connected directly to the control board, then motors with a power of 1 kW or more must be connected through the control unit, but this is not about us.))
Yes, often in home-made machines they install direct grinders, or milling cutters with a removable base. Such a decision can be justified, especially when performing work of a short duration.
In my case, a 300W air-cooled spindle was chosen.
3. Stepper motors.
The most widely used motors are 3 sizes
NEMA17, NEMA23, NEMA 32
they differ in size, power and working moment
NEMA17 is commonly used in 3D printers for milling machine they are too small, because you have to carry a heavy portal, to which a lateral load is additionally applied during processing.
NEMA32 for such a craft is unnecessary, besides, you would have to take another control board.
my choice fell on NEMA23 with maximum power for this board - 3A.
Also, people use steppers from printers, but since. I didn’t have them either and still had to buy, I chose everything in the kit.
4. Controller
A control board that receives signals from the computer and transmits voltage to stepper motors that move the axes of the machine.
5. Computer
You need a separate computer (possibly very old) and there are, perhaps, two reasons for this:
1. It is unlikely that you will decide to place a milling machine near the place where you are used to reading the Internet, playing toys, keeping accounts, etc. Simply because the milling machine is loud and dusty. Usually the machine is either in the workshop or in the garage (better heated). My machine is in the garage, it is mostly idle in winter, because. no heating.
2. For economic reasons, computers are usually used that are no longer relevant for home life- heavily used :)
Requirements for the car by and large about nothing:
- from Pentium 4
- the presence of a discrete video card
- RAM from 512MB
- the presence of an LPT connector (I won’t say anything about USB, I haven’t studied the news yet because of the driver that works on LPT)
such a computer is either taken from the pantry, or, as in my case, is bought for next to nothing.
By virtue of low power machines, we try not to install additional software, i.e. only the axis and the control program.
Next are two options:
- install windows XP (it's a weak computer, remember right?) and the MATCH3 control program (there are others, but this is the most popular)
- we put niks and Linux CNC (they say that everything is also very good, but I didn’t master niks)
I will add, perhaps, so as not to offend overly wealthy people, that it is quite possible to put not a fourth stump, but some kind of ai7 - please, if you like it and can afford it.
6. Basic drawing skills, patience, desire and good mood.
Here in a nutshell.
For the machine to work, you need a control program (essentially a text file containing the coordinates of movements, movement speed and acceleration), which in turn is prepared in a CAM application - usually ArtCam, in this application the model itself is prepared, its dimensions are set, a cutting tool is selected.
I usually take a slightly longer route, make a drawing, and then AutoCad, saving it *.dxf, upload it to ArtCam and prepare the UE there.
Well, let's start the process of creating your own.
Before designing a machine, we take several points as starting points:
- Axle shafts will be made of construction studs with M10 thread. Of course, there are undoubtedly more technologically advanced options: a shaft with a trapezoidal thread, a ball screw (ball screw), but you need to understand that the price of the issue leaves much to be desired, and for a hobby machine, the price is generally space. However, over time, I'm going to upgrade and replace the hairpin with a trapezoid.
- The material of the machine body is 16mm plywood. Why plywood? Available, cheap, cheerful. There are actually many options, someone makes from duralumin, someone from plexiglass. I prefer plywood.
Making a 3D model: 
Reamer: 
Then I did this, there was no picture left, but I think it will be clear. I printed out a scan on transparent sheets, cut them out and pasted them onto a sheet of plywood.
Sawed pieces and drilled holes. Of the tools - a jigsaw and a screwdriver.
There is one more little trick that will make life easier in the future: before drilling holes, squeeze all paired parts with a clamp and drill through, so you get holes that are equally located on each part. Even if a slight deviation occurs during drilling, the internal parts of the connected parts will match, and the hole can be reamed a little.
In parallel, we make a specification and start ordering everything.
what happened to me:
1. The kit specified in this review includes: stepper motor control board (driver), NEMA23 stepper motors - 3 pcs., 12V power supply, LPT cord and cooler.
2. Spindle (this is the simplest, but nevertheless does its job), fasteners and a 12V power supply.
3. Used computer Pentium 4, most importantly, the motherboard has LPT and a discrete video card + CRT monitor. I took it to Avito for 1000 rubles.
4. Steel shaft: Ф20mm - L=500mm - 2pcs, Ф16mm - L=500mm - 2pcs, Ф12mm - L=300mm - 2pcs.
I took it here, at that time in St. Petersburg it turned out to be more expensive to take. Came within 2 weeks.
5. Linear bearings: f20 - 4 pcs., f16 - 4 pcs., f12 - 4 pcs.
20
16
12
6. Fastenings for shafts: f20 - 4 pcs., f16 - 4 pcs., f12 - 2 pcs.
20
16
12
7. Caprolon nuts with M10 thread - 3 pcs.
I took along with the shafts on duxe.ru
8. Rotation bearings, closed - 6 pcs.
In the same place, but the Chinese also have a lot of them
9. PVA wire 4x2.5
it's offline
10. Cogs, dowels, nuts, clamps - a bunch.
This is also offline, in hardware.
11. A set of cutters was also bought
So, we order, wait, cut and collect. 
Initially, the driver and power supply for it were installed in the case with the computer together. 
Later it was decided to place the driver in a separate case, it just appeared. 
Well, the old monitor somehow changed to a more modern one. 
As I said at the beginning, I never thought that I would write a review, so I am attaching photos of the nodes, and I will try to explain the assembly process.
First, we assemble three axles without screws in order to align the shafts as accurately as possible.
We take the front and rear walls of the housing, fasten the flanges for the shafts. We string 2 linear bearings on the X axis and insert them into the flanges. 
We fasten the bottom of the portal to the linear bearings, we try to roll the base of the portal back and forth. We are convinced of the curvature of our hands, we disassemble everything and drill holes a little.
Thus, we get some freedom of movement of the shafts. Now we bait the flanges, insert the shafts into them and move the base of the portal back and forth to achieve a smooth glide. We tighten the flanges.
At this stage, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the shafts, as well as their alignment along the Z axis (in short, so that the distance from assembly table to the shafts was the same) so as not to fill up the future working plane later.
We figured out the X axis.
We fasten the portal racks to the base, for this I used furniture barrels. 
Fasten the flanges for the Y axis to the uprights, this time from the outside: 
We insert shafts with linear bearings.
We strengthen back wall Z axis.
We repeat the process of adjusting the parallelism of the shafts and fix the flanges.
We repeat the same process with the Z axis.
We get a rather funny design that can be moved with one hand along three coordinates.
An important point: all axes should move easily, i.e. slightly tilting the structure, the portal itself should move freely, without any squeaks and resistance.
Next, attach the lead screws.
We cut off the M10 construction stud of the required length, screw the caprolon nut approximately in the middle, and 2 M10 nuts on each side. It is convenient for this, after tightening the nuts a little, clamp the stud into the screwdriver and, holding the nuts, tighten.
We insert the bearings into the sockets and push the studs into them from the inside. After that, we fix the studs to the bearing with nuts on each side and counter with the second so that they do not come loose.
We fasten the caprolon nut to the base of the axle.
We clamp the end of the stud into the screwdriver and try to move the axis from start to finish and return.
Here we have a couple more joys waiting for us:
1. The distance from the axis of the nut to the base in the center (and most likely at the time of assembly the base will be in the middle) may not coincide with the distance in the extreme positions, because shafts under the weight of the structure can bend. I had to put cardboard along the X axis.
2. Shaft travel can be very tight. If you have eliminated all distortions, then tension can play a role, here it is necessary to catch the moment of tension of fixing with nuts to the installed bearing.
Having dealt with the problems and having received free rotation from start to finish, we proceed to install the remaining screws.
We attach stepper motors to the screws:
In general, when using special screws, whether it be a trapezoid or a ball screw, the ends are processed on them and then the connection to the engine is very conveniently made with a special coupling. 
But we have a construction stud and had to think about how to fix it. At that moment, I came across a cut gas pipe, and applied it. It directly “winds” onto the hairpin on the engine, enters the grinding, tightened it with clamps - it holds very well. 
To fix the engines, I took an aluminum tube and cut it. Adjusted with washers.
To connect the engines, I took the following connectors: 
Sorry, I don’t remember what they are called, I hope someone in the comments will tell you.
GX16-4 connector (thanks Jager). I asked a colleague to buy in an electronics store, he just lives nearby, but it turned out to be very inconvenient for me to get there. I am very pleased with them: they hold them securely, they are designed for a higher current, you can always disconnect them.
We put the working field, it is also a sacrificial table.
We connect all the motors to the control board from the review, connect it to a 12V PSU, connect to the computer with an LPT cable.
Install MACH3 on PC, make settings and try!
About the setting separately, perhaps, I will not write. It could go on for a couple more pages.
I have a whole joy, the video of the first launch of the machine has been preserved:
Yes, when this video was moving along the X axis, there was a terrible bounce, unfortunately I don’t remember exactly, but in the end I found either the washer dangling, or something else, in general, it was solved without problems.
Next, you need to put the spindle, while ensuring its perpendicularity (simultaneously in X and Y) to the working plane. The essence of the procedure is this, we attach a pencil to the spindle with electrical tape, thus indenting from the axis is obtained. With a smooth lowering of the pencil, he begins to draw a circle on the board. If the spindle is littered, then it turns out not a circle, but an arc. Accordingly, it is necessary to achieve alignment by drawing a circle. A photo from the process has been preserved, the pencil is out of focus, and the angle is not the same, but I think the essence is clear: 
We find a finished model (in my case, the coat of arms of the Russian Federation), prepare the UE, feed it to MACH and go!
Machine operation:
photo in progress:
Well, of course we go through the initiation))
The situation is both funny and generally understandable. We dream of building a machine and immediately sawing something super cool, but in the end we understand that this time will just take a lot of time.
In a nutshell:
With 2D processing (simply sawing out), a contour is set, which is cut out in several passes.
With 3D processing (here you can immerse yourself in a holivar, some argue that this is not 3D but 2.5D, since the workpiece is processed only from above), a complex surface is set. And the higher the accuracy of the desired result, the thinner the cutter is used, the more passes of this cutter are needed.
To speed up the process, roughing is used. Those. first, the main volume is sampled with a large cutter, then finishing with a thin cutter is started.
Next, we try, set up, experiment, etc. The 10000 hour rule works here too ;)
Perhaps I will no longer bore you with a story about the construction, tuning, etc. It's time to show the results of using the machine - the product. 
As you can see, these are mostly sawn contours or 2D processing. It takes a lot of time to process three-dimensional figures, the machine is in the garage, and I stop by there for a short time.
Here they will rightly notice me - but on ... to build such a bandura, if you can cut a figure with a U-shaped jigsaw or an electric jigsaw?
It is possible, but this is not our method. As you remember, at the beginning of the text, I wrote that it was the idea to make a drawing on a computer and turn this drawing into a product that prompted the creation of this beast.
Writing a review finally pushed me to upgrade the machine. Those. the upgrade was planned earlier, but "hands did not reach." Last change before that there was an organization of a house for the machine: 
Thus, in the garage, when the machine is running, it has become much quieter and much less dust flies.
The last upgrade was the installation of a new spindle, more precisely, now I have two interchangeable bases:
1. With Chinese 300W spindle for fine work: 
2. With a domestic, but no less Chinese milling cutter "Enkor" ... 
With the new router came new possibilities.
Faster processing, more dust.
Here is the result of using a semi-circular groove cutter: 
Well, especially for MYSKU
Simple straight groove cutter: 
Process video:
On this I will curtail, but according to the rules it would be necessary to take stock.
Minuses:
- Expensive.
- For a long time.
- From time to time you have to solve new problems (they turned off the light, pickups, something unraveled, etc.)
Pros:
- The process of creation. Only this already justifies the creation of the machine. The search for solutions to emerging problems and implementation is what, instead of sitting on the priest, you get up and go to do something.
- Joy at the moment of giving gifts made with your own hands. Here it must be added that the machine does not do all the work itself :) in addition to milling, it is still necessary to process it, sand it, paint it, etc.
Thank you very much if you are still reading. I hope that my post, even if it does not incite you to create such (or another) machine, will broaden your horizons and give food for thought. I also want to say thank you to those who persuaded me to write this opus, without it I didn’t have an upgrade, apparently, so everything is in the black.
I apologize for the inaccuracies in the wording and any lyrical digressions. Much had to be cut, otherwise the text would have turned out to be simply immense. Clarifications and additions are naturally possible, write in the comments - I will try to answer everyone.
Good luck in your endeavors!
Promised file links:
- machine drawing,
- sweep,
format is dxf. This means that you can open the file with any vector editor.
The 3D model is detailed by 85-90 percent, I did many things, either at the time of preparing the scan, or in place. Please understand and forgive.)
From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text sets out step technology tool creation: analysis design features the appliance and all the components needed for its installation, dimensional drawings and detailed descriptions to help you create each of these elements and put them together.
Wood milling machines may have various purpose. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Buying a professional tool is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, such a router is used in small furniture workshops.
Milling cutters are usually used to process wood along a straight or curved contour. The cutting head, which performs rotational movements, acts as a working element in the design. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many varieties of milling cutters, each of which has its own design features.
The most popular types of devices:
- standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
- single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
- copy milling machines with a spindle having an upper placement;
- copy structures with a spindle having a horizontal placement (the tool is designed for processing propellers made of wood).
In all of the listed designs, except for the last one, the material is fed manually.Note!
Milling machine device: single-spindle designs
The design of a single-spindle machine includes a horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed to fix the guide rulers. It is mounted on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are sleds that move along the guides. They have a spindle on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element is another spindle - plug-in. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.
The slide with the spindle can be raised if necessary. For this, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. The belt drive allows the spindle to be driven. Moreover, a counter-drive, motor or motor shaft can be used for this.
To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the nuances. In some cases, you can not do without additional reinforcement of the spindle. Such a need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces of great height or serious loads act on the part. To do this, you need to install and fix the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is desirable to use a guide ring or ruler.
Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of woodwork with your own hands. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow you to get a higher quality of processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by cutting the wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. An instrument with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.
The device of a home-made copier for wood with an upper spindle
These devices are used to perform copying work. It does not require high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling to create openwork products.
The copier is able to replace three tools at once:
- Frazier.
- Drilling machine.
- Jigsaw.
Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. Spindle develops a large number of turns, thanks to what the processed surface turns out very pure.
Homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:
- boss calibration;
- production of openwork frames;
- elaboration of the walls of the ribs, etc.
As a basis for this design, a bed made of cast iron is used. Its upper part is curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.
Note! The bed performs the function of a link on which all the elements of a home-made wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.
The engine is mounted on rails. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is fixed. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.
In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move along the guides vertically using a handwheel. There are other options for making a home-made wood milling machine with your own hands, a drawing of this design involves the vertical movement of the table also in the process of work by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.
How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology
The easiest way to make a tool yourself at home is to construct a lathe or milling machine from a drill or an electric motor taken from another tool. This process is not so complicated, so every master is able to cope with its implementation. This will require an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and improvised materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, some skills are required to make a lathe.
The following elements are required for the construction of the machine:
- metal frame;
- electric motor;
- handyman;
- back grandma.
It does not hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate in size and correctly manufacture all structural elements for its subsequent assembly.
How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor
First you need to prepare the shaft of the electric motor. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it, and a threaded steel center is also suitable. The installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. For the manufacture of the bed, you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. The motor is attached to the bed using a bolted connection.
Note! The central part of the tailstock must necessarily coincide with the middle of the motor shaft.
At the next stage of production homemade machine do-it-yourself headstock is assembled. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe is attached to it, designed for the spindle. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. Previously, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is indicated. After that, the headstock is installed on the bed. On the top rack, which is connected to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to fix the tube by welding.
To make a handpiece, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. Also, this element must have a hole that will be used to secure the reference ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the handpiece rod is inserted into it.
The motor rotor, on which the faceplate is fixed, will be used as the headstock spindle. It needs to make several holes. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are designed to fix the part with screws.
How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands
Having at hand a workbench with a solid and even working surface, it is possible to build a lathe without resorting to the construction of a bed. Electric drill in this case, it will perform the function of a rotary drive and headstock. According to the simplest drawing of the machine, it is enough to fix this tool on the surface of the workbench through the neck. Clamps and a collar are suitable for fixing.
This element is mounted opposite the drill. To create it, you can take two bars of wood and an adjusting screw, sharpened at one end under a cone. If it is intended to use the machine for processing massive wooden blanks, then it is advisable to fix the stop on the table with clamps.
To make a tool with your own hands is enough inexpensive materials. Lathe on the basis of a drill, it can be used for turning various parts:
- door handles;
- structural details of the stairs;
- decorative items, etc.
Note! A machine with a wooden clamp is suitable exclusively for processing wood blanks. It is not allowed to use such a tool for working with metal.
To expand the functionality of the tool, its design can be supplemented with nozzles and other devices that can improve the quality of work.
These improvements include:
- winding on transformers;
- applying a coloring composition over a rotating part to create patterns;
- applying spiral notches to the workpiece, etc.
Installing a special prefix in the form of a copier will allow you to use the machine to create a whole series of identical parts or products according to a template.
How to make a wood milling machine with your own hands: drawings, videos, instructions
- Decide on the type of construction, and what tasks the tool will perform.
- Decide on the materials that will be used for the construction of each element, and methods of fixation.
- Calculate the technical and operational parameters necessary for the full functioning.
- Choose for a do-it-yourself CNC wood milling machine drawings with the dimensions of all parts.
To work with complex elements you will need a router with a high level of power and a large number of revolutions. Experts recommend giving preference to devices that have manual spindle adjustment and automatic stabilization. Useful features such as quick stop and smooth start. In ideal designs, changing the motor brushes does not require disassembly of the tool body.
Related article:
Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for the choice of designs and an overview of the best models.
The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:
- countertops;
- beds;
- spindle
- parallel stop;
- feed sled;
- vacuum cleaner.
Helpful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with a lower performance will not be able to process workpieces from hard rock wood.
Selection of materials for the manufacture of a woodworking machine with your own hands
In order for the bed to be able to withstand high dynamic loads, it is desirable to use metal as a material for its manufacture. by the most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular cross section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.
The choice of such materials allows you to create a design without applying welding machine. All elements are connected by bolts. The design is collapsible, which facilitates its transfer and transportation. In addition, using the appropriate drawing milling table, with your own hands you can create adjustable legs. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.
For the manufacture of countertops, the following materials are suitable:
- multilayer plywood sheets;
- planed board;
- MDF, OSB or chipboard.
The table top must have smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to exclude all factors that can cause scratches during processing of workpieces.
When making a table for a router with your own hands, a flat surface can be achieved in several ways:
- finishing with plastic;
- careful adjustment and grinding of planed boards;
- metal finishing.
To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Among the shortcomings - high level noise. Collector motor more accessible, but its brushes wear out faster.
How to make do-it-yourself router bits
Homemade wood cutters are able to effectively process wood, however, when in contact with hard materials cutting elements become dull quickly. Therefore, the range of application of such parts is significantly limited.
To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical blank and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After that, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. From the cut part of the workpiece, you need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the processed section of the cutter a rectangular shape. To do this, cut off its lower part. Thickness received working area should be 2-5 mm.
Helpful advice! To cut a metal workpiece for a cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. The cutting edge can be made using a sharpening machine.
- It is desirable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10 °. A sharper edge will cut much worse and quickly lose sharpness.
- By using grinder angular type, equipped with discs for metal, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the necessary configuration. For these purposes, diamond-coated needle files are also suitable.
- If the cutter has a complex configuration, you can flatten or bend it.
How to make a milling machine with your own hands
The simplest milling machine can be made in the same way as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the structure.
In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if necessary.
In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the processed workpieces is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, you can make a special cartridge, although in this case it will not be possible to avoid some restrictions.
The back center, which will be used to hold long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tool are largely similar. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.
Do-it-yourself table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings
There are several design options that can be used to install a desktop CNC router. Tables can be fixed or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the surface of the table for the use of a router.
Most often, craftsmen prefer stationary structures that have metal carcass. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.
Note! Making a table for manual router with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the height of the person who will work for him.
List necessary tools and materials include:
- metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
- aluminum guides;
- axis for fixing the router;
- putty, as well as priming and coloring compositions;
- self-tapping screws;
- furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
- hex adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
- Finnish laminated plywood with moisture resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
- material for the manufacture of a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
- drill and a set of drills;
- screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
- welding machine;
- accessories (brushes, rags, spatula).
Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of the milling table with your own hands, video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the net, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.
Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly
CNC router is different from conventional tool the presence of a program that controls its work. In many videos, home-made machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular section, which is fixed on rails. The CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints, it is better to fix it with bolts.
The fact is that the welds are vulnerable to vibration, due to which, over time, the frame will undergo gradual destruction. As a result of changing the geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and quality of processing. It is desirable that the drawing of the table provides for the possibility of moving the tool vertically. For these purposes, a screw drive is suitable. The rotational movement will be transmitted by means of a toothed belt.
The vertical axis is the most important structural element. For its manufacture, you can use an aluminum plate. At the same time, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.
Helpful advice! Using a muffle furnace, it is possible to cast a vertical axis from aluminum, taking into account the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper type electric motors. They are installed behind the vertical axis directly on the body. One motor will control the horizontal movement of the milling head, the other will control the vertical movement. Then you need to proceed to the installation of the remaining components of the structure.
The rotational movement will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before you connect software control to the finished router, you must definitely check its performance and, if there are any shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble the machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.
Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands
To create a CNC milling machine at home, it is imperative to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. Ideal for creating a homemade machine electric motors present in the dot matrix printer. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to engines, steel rods will be required.
A dot matrix printer has only a couple of motors, but three are required to create a router. Therefore, several old printing devices will be required. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. This increases the functionality of the tool.
Other engine parameters are also important:
- degree of rotation per step;
- winding resistance;
- voltage level.
To assemble the drive, you will need a stud and nut. The size of these parts is selected according to the drawing. To fix the motor shaft and the stud, you can use a thick rubber winding from an electrical cable. A nylon sleeve is suitable as a retainer, a screw should be inserted into it. As an auxiliary tool, you can use a drill and a file.
The tool will be controlled by the software. An obligatory element of the machine is the LPT port, which provides the connection of the control system to the router through electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the technological operations performed. Therefore, the choice of details should be approached thoroughly. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.
How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices
If with the manufacture of a manual router and stationary table almost any master can handle, then assembling a CNC machine will seem an impossible task for many. Moreover, home-made designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-made tool can offer.
Helpful advice! If you intend to use a router to perform complex work on wood, it is better to give preference to factory designs that are accurately calibrated and have many functions.
Prices for them vary depending on the functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.
Average prices for factory-made CNC milling machines:
| Machine name | Table length, mm | price, rub. |
| LTT-K0609 (LTT-K6090A) | 900 | 228970 |
| WoodTec MH-6090 | 246780 | |
| LTT-P6090 | 329120 | |
| R.J.1212 | 1300 | 317000 |
| WoodTec MH-1212 | 347350 | |
| RUIJIE RJ 1200 | 399200 | |
| WoodTec MH 1325 | 2500 | 496350 |
| WoodTec MH-1625 | 540115 | |
| WoodTec VH-1625 | 669275 | |
| RJ 2040 | 3000 | 1056750 |
| WoodTec VH-2030 | 1020935 | |
| WoodTec VH-2040 | 1136000 |
Assembling a machine with software is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without a suitable drawing and necessary details. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from legacy equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.
Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instruction
Machine tools equipped with numerical software (CNC) are presented in the form modern equipment for cutting, turning, drilling or grinding metal, plywood, wood foam and other materials.
Built-in electronics on the base printed circuit boards"Arduino" provides maximum automation of work.
1 What is a CNC machine?
CNC machines based on Arduino printed circuit boards are capable of automatically steplessly changing the spindle speed, as well as the feed rate of calipers, tables and other mechanisms. Auxiliary elements CNC machine automatically takes the desired position, and can be used to cut plywood or aluminum profile.
In devices based on Arduino printed circuit boards, the cutting tool (pre-configured) is also changed automatically.
In CNC devices based on Arduino printed circuit boards, all commands are given through the controller.
The controller receives signals from the program carrier. For such plywood cutting equipment, metal profiles or foam, the program carriers are cams, stops or copiers.
The signal received from the program carrier through the controller gives a command to the machine, semi-automatic or copy machine. If it is necessary to change a sheet of plywood or foam for cutting, then the cams or copiers are replaced by other elements.
Units with program control based on Arduino boards use punched tapes, punched cards or magnetic tapes as a program carrier, which contain all necessary information. With the use of Arduino boards, the entire process of cutting plywood, foam or other material is fully automated, one hundred and minimizes labor costs.
It is worth noting that assembling a CNC machine for cutting plywood or foam based on Arduino boards you can do it yourself without much difficulty. Control in CNC units based on Arduino is carried out by a controller that transmits both technological and dimensional information.
Using CNC plasma cutters based on Arduino boards, you can release a large number of universal equipment and, at the same time, increase labor productivity. The main advantages of do-it-yourself Arduino-based machines are expressed in:
- high (compared to manual machines) performance;
- the flexibility of versatile equipment combined with precision;
- reducing the need to attract qualified specialists to work;
- the possibility of manufacturing interchangeable parts according to one program;
- reduced preparation time for the manufacture of new parts;
- the ability to make a machine with your own hands.
1.1 The process of the CNC milling machine (video)
1.2 Varieties of CNC machines
The presented units for cutting plywood or foam plastic, using Arduino boards for operation, are divided into classes according to:
- technological possibilities;
- the principle of tool change;
- workpiece change method.
Any class of such equipment can be made by hand, and Arduino electronics provide maximum automation of the workflow. Along with classes, machines can be:
- turning;
- drilling and boring;
- milling;
- grinding;
- machines of the electrophysical series;
- multipurpose.
Turning units based on "Arduino" can process external and internal surfaces all sorts of details.
The rotation of workpieces can be carried out both in rectilinear and curvilinear contours. The device is also designed for cutting outer and internal thread. Milling units based on "Arduino" are designed for milling simple and complex body-type parts.
In addition, they can perform drilling and boring. Grinding machines, which can also be DIY can be applied to finishing details.
Depending on the type of treated surfaces, the aggregates can be:
- surface grinding;
- internal grinding;
- spline grinding.
Multi-purpose units can be used for cutting plywood or foam, to perform drilling, milling, boring and turning parts. Before you make a CNC machine with your own hands, it is important to consider that the equipment is also divided according to the method of changing the tool. Replacement can be made:
- manually;
- automatically in the turret;
- automatically in the store.
If the electronics (controller) can provide automatic workpiece change using special storage devices, then the machine can long time work without operator intervention.
In order to make the presented unit for cutting plywood or polystyrene with your own hands, you need to prepare the initial equipment. A used one may be suitable for this.
In it, the working body is replaced by a cutter. In addition, you can make a mechanism with your own hands from the carriages of an old printer.
This will allow the working cutter to move in the direction of two planes. Further, electronics are connected to the structure, the key element of which is the controller and the Arduino boards.
The assembly scheme allows you to make a self-made CNC unit automatic with your own hands. Such equipment may be designed for cutting plastic, foam, plywood or thin metal. In order for the device to be able to perform more complex types of work, not only a controller is needed, but also a stepper motor.
It should have high power performance - at least 40-50 watts. It is recommended to use a conventional electric motor, since with its use there will be no need to create a screw gear, and the controller will provide timely delivery of commands.
Required force on the transmission shaft in homemade device must be transmitted by means of toothed belts. If a homemade CNC machine will use carriages from printers to move the working cutter, then for this purpose it is necessary to select parts from large printers.
The basis of the future unit can serve as a rectangular beam, which must be firmly fixed on the rails. The frame should have a high degree of rigidity, but welding is not recommended. It is better to use a bolted connection.
Welding seams will be subject to deformation due to constant loads during operation of the machine. The fastening elements are destroyed in this case, which will lead to a failure of the settings, and the controller will not work correctly.
2.1 About stepper motor calipers and rails
The CNC unit assembled by yourself must be equipped with stepper motors. As mentioned above, it is best to use engines from old dot matrix printers to assemble the unit.
For efficient operation of the device will need three separate motors step type. It is recommended to use motors with five separate control wires. This will increase the functionality homemade device several times.
When selecting motors for a future machine, you need to know the number of degrees per step, the operating voltage indicator and the winding resistance. Subsequently, this will help to correctly configure all the software.
The ball motor shaft is fastened using a rubber cable covered with a thick winding. In addition, using such a cable, you can connect the motor to the running stud. The bed can be made of plastic with a thickness of 10-12 mm.
Along with plastic, it is possible to use aluminum or organic glass.
The leading parts of the frame are fastened with self-tapping screws, and when using wood, elements can be fastened with PVA glue. The guides are steel bars with a cross section of 12 mm and a length of 20 mm. There are 2 rods for each axle.
The support is made of textolite, its dimensions should be 30 × 100x40 cm. Stepper motors are installed using fasteners.
Fasteners can be made using steel leaf type. The thickness of the sheet should be 2-3 mm. Next, the screw is connected to the axis of the stepper motor through a flexible shaft. For this purpose, you can use a regular rubber hose.
For many home craftsmen, it may seem that this is somewhere on the verge of fantasy, since this equipment is a device that is complex in design, technical and electronic terms.
Meanwhile, having the appropriate drawings at hand, the entire necessary material and a tool, a mini home-made woodworking machine equipped with CNC, you can do it yourself.
Of course, for this you will have to spend some effort, including financial ones, but nothing is impossible, and if you approach this issue correctly and with knowledge of the matter, everyone can do a home-made table-milling machine for mini wood with a CNC unit House master.
As you know, such a mini unit for wood is distinguished by the accuracy of the processing, ease of control of all work processes, as well as the high quality of the finished product.
Currently, there are several ways to implement a home-made desktop CNC milling machine in a mini version for working on wood and other materials.
First of all, you can purchase a special kit for assembling this type of structure, or you can do all the necessary work yourself, getting a finished product with high quality processing at the output.
If a decision is made to carry out all the necessary work on the design and assembly of a mini desktop milling machine for working on wood and other materials with CNC by yourself, with your own hands, then you should start by choosing the most optimal scheme for the future unit.
In this case, as the initial equipment, you can take a small old drilling machine and replace the working body in the form of a drill directly with a cutter.
Be sure to think carefully about how the mechanism responsible for the necessary movement in three independent planes will be arranged.
You can try to assemble such a mechanism from recycled carriages from an old printer, which will make it possible to ensure the movement of the working cutter in two planes.
Here it will be possible to simply connect the necessary software, which will make it possible to make a home-made desktop CNC milling machine automatic, however, such a design can only work on wood, plastic or thin metal.
In order for a self-made milling machine assembled by oneself to be able to perform more serious operations, it must be equipped with a stepper motor with high power ratings.
This type of engine can be obtained from the standard version of the electric motor due to a slight refinement. This will completely eliminate the use of a screw drive, while all its advantages will be preserved in full.
The necessary force on the shaft in a homemade unit is best transmitted through toothed belts.
In the event that, in order to ensure the necessary movement of the working cutter in a home-made CNC milling machine, it is decided to use home-made carriages from printers, then it is better to take these devices from large printer models for these purposes.
When creating a CNC milling unit with your own hands, Special attention should be given to the manufacture of the milling mechanism, which will require the appropriate drawings.
Assembly of the milling machine
It is best to take a rectangular beam as the basis of a home-made milling machine, which should be firmly fixed on the guides.
The whole structure must have high rigidity, while it is better if welding work will be kept to a minimum.
The fact is that in any case, the welding seams are subject to destruction and deformation under certain loads, during the operation of the machine, its frame will be subjected to, among other things, vibration, which may adversely affect these fastening elements, which, in turn, will lead to to a failure in the settings.
To increase rigidity, it is recommended to fasten the beam and fastening elements with screws of certain diameters.
This should completely eliminate the possible backlash during the operation of the CNC milling machine, as well as the deflection of the guides under severe loads.
By exactly the same principle, do-it-yourself self-made milling and engraving machine equipped with CNC. The do-it-yourself assembly process of a fairly functional CNC milling machine is described in detail in the video below.
In the design of the unit, it is mandatory to provide for the lifting of the working tool in a vertical position, for which it is recommended to use a screw gear.
In turn, for the necessary return of rotation directly on lead screw a toothed belt should be used.
The vertical axis, which is also an indispensable element of any CNC milling machine, is made from an aluminum plate.
It should be precisely adjusted to the dimensions that were obtained at the design stage of the unit and entered in the corresponding drawings.
At home, you can cast a vertical axis using a muffle plate, in which case you should take aluminum.
After that, two stepper motors should be mounted directly on the body immediately behind the axle, one of which will be responsible for horizontal movement, and the second, respectively, for the vertical.
All rotation must be transmitted through the belts. After all the elements are in place, the home-made milling machine should be checked in operation when manual control, and if deficiencies are identified, eliminate them on the spot.
A bit about stepper motors
Any CNC unit, including an engraving machine, is necessarily equipped with stepper-type electric motors.
When assembling homemade CNC milling equipment, engines from old dot matrix printers can be used as such a motor. Most dot matrix printers have two of these elements with sufficient power.
In addition, dot matrix printers also have steel rods made of durable steel, which can also be used in a homemade machine.
In this case, it should be noted that to assemble such a unit with your own hands, you will need three separate stepper motors, which means you will have to look for and disassemble two dot-matrix printers.
It is better if such motors have about five separate control wires, since in this case the functionality of a home-made machine will increase several times.
When selecting stepper motors for a homemade CNC milling machine, it is necessary to find out the number of their degrees per step, as well as the operating voltage and winding resistance.
This will help subsequently to correctly configure all the hardware software.
It is best to fasten the stepper motor shaft with a rubber cable with a thick winding. It will also help when attaching the engine itself directly to the stud.
You can make clamps from a do-it-yourself sleeve with a screw. To do this, take nylon, and as a tool a drill and a file.
How to make an engraving and milling machine with a CNC block with your own hands is described in detail in the video below.
Electronic provision
The main element of any CNC machine is its software.
In this case, you can use a homemade one, which will include all the necessary drivers for the installed controllers, as well as stepper motors, and besides this, standard power supplies.
An LPT port is required. It will also be necessary to think about the working program, which will provide not only control, but also management of all necessary modes of operation.
Directly the CNC unit itself should be connected to the milling unit through the above port, always through the installed motors.
When choosing the necessary software for a home-made machine, you need to rely on one that has already managed to prove its stable operation and has great functionality.
Video:
It should be remembered that electronics will mainly affect the accuracy and quality of all operations performed on CNC equipment.
After all the necessary electronics are installed, it is necessary to download all the programs and drivers necessary for the operation of the desktop milling machine.
Further, just before the machine starts to operate for its intended purpose, the electronic software should be checked in operation and, if necessary, all identified shortcomings should be eliminated on the spot.
All of the above operations for assembling a CNC milling machine with your own hands are also suitable for creating a home-made coordinate boring unit, as well as many other equipment of this class.
In any case, if all the work of assembling a CNC-equipped milling unit with your own hands is done correctly and in accordance with the technology, home master it will be possible to perform many complex operations, both on metal and on wood.
How to make your own CNC milling machine is described in detail in the video in our article.
