Fertilizer during planting is a highly effective way to achieve maximum yield of agricultural crops, incl. on depleted and poor soils, which is especially important in small private farms and in the country. The concentration of nutrients in the feeding zone minimizes their leaching, migration in soil structures and theft by weeds; it also promotes the development of a compact, powerful root system, which is the key to the health of the plant and its resistance to diseases and pests.

The Dutch, for example, largely thanks to the widespread use of spot (cluster) feeding of plants during planting, manage to harvest fantastic, stable yields of environmentally friendly products from patches of land. This method is more labor-intensive than thoughtlessly scattering fertilizer across the field, but when a family runs a farm on an area of up to 100-250 acres, it is more than economically justified.

However, fertilizing during planting should be done with full consideration of the biology of this particular plant species, the properties of the soil underneath it and the method of maintaining its culture, because the same increased concentration necessary for the plant elements in the nutrition zone can lead to the accumulation of substances harmful to humans, primarily nitrates, in fruits. Simply put, when planting, you need to fertilize plants much more carefully and carefully, whether feeding will be nested or by area before planting/sowing. This article provides initial information on agrobiology and agrochemistry of fertilizing crops during planting and recommendations for their use for a number of important crops in private farming.

Chemistry or organics?

The general rule for fertilizing the soil when planting plants is that the further the fruits are from the roots, the more preferable it is to apply organic fertilizers when planting.

In addition to poorly soluble ones (for example, phosphate rock), they are easily accessible to roots, but also quickly migrate in the soil and are leached. Their concentration in the feeding zone, as a rule, drops to environmentally acceptable values long before fruit set. releases nutrients into the soil relatively slowly, but keeps a spot of their increased concentration around the application site for a long time, by-effect what - an increased risk of accumulation of undesirable substances in tubers and root crops. This is not so dangerous for plants with above-ground fruits, because almost all of them have certain biomechanisms that prevent the penetration of substances necessary for the growth and development of the plant itself into the fruits. However, the peculiarities of the biology of individual cultures and groups of cultures make significant adjustments to the general pattern.

Tubers, roots, fruits, greens

The biology of tuber and root crops is noticeably different from that of plants with fruits “on top”, so fertilizers for them are applied in a slightly different way when planting. Root/tuber crops quickly develop a very active root growth system and increase green mass. At this phase, the rate of migration of nutrients from organic fertilizer into the soil may not be enough for the full development of the plant. Then the plant switches to the development of underground storage organs. By this phase, the initial fertilizing should be completely spent on the formation of feeding roots and aerial parts.

Based on the above, apply fertilizers when planting various groups agricultural crops follows in general the following scheme:

Roots and tubers on light, permeable soils(sandy loam, light loams) - in 2 stages: in the fall, under fall plowing, manure or slightly soluble mineral fertilizers, and in the spring, when planting in holes, light (not particularly concentrated) organic fertilizers - humus, compost. When sowing/planting under agrofilm in the spring, instead of organic matter, use mineral fertilizers, see below.
The same when planting in a hole on heavy soils– each plant is individually given mineral fertilizers before planting. On depleted soils, it is very, very desirable to organize crop rotation with nitrogen fixers, because all root/tuber crops are very draining on the soil and heavy soils are slow to reclaim. Experienced gardeners They know: the best fertilizer for potatoes is green manure peas in the fall.
Annuals with above-ground fruits– organic matter on light, permeable, non-depleted soils; in all other cases, mineral fertilizers.
Woody and shrubby fruit and stone fruit crops – organic to the maximum, respectively. local conditions for the best development of plants. The harvest is most often not harvested in the first year, and there is no need to worry about the accumulation of nitrates.
Green crops and plants with above-ground storage organs used for food (for example, cabbage) - applying fertilizers when planting without basic knowledge in the field of agrochemistry, agrobiology and gardening experience is not recommended: either there will be no benefit, or you will have to eat your own nitrates.

About nitrogen

The golden rule of soil fertilization when planting plants is not to overdo it with nitrogen! It is better to underfeed them than to overfeed them!

From excess, young plants will stretch out and wither; Leaf chlorosis may develop. It is better to completely avoid adding nitrates during planting. If the land is completely depleted (for example, potatoes are planted after potatoes last year), the soil is replenished with nitrogen in the fall before the fall. And yet - highly effective in many cases (see below) is incompatible with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Either one or the other.

Potato

It provides a vital, highly valuable food product, but it itself is a decent glutton and greatly depletes the soil. The homeland of potatoes is the high plateaus of the Andes, the so-called. altiplano, with a harsh climate and sudden changes in weather, therefore the development features of tuber crops described above are especially characteristic of potatoes. Potatoes are grown in a variety of climatic conditions by planting in holes and under agrofilm, as a result of which Fertilizer for potatoes when planting should be done in accordance with one of 4 typical cases:

Heavy poor soil;
It is also quite nutritious;
Light poor soil;
It's also quite nutritious.

Note: planting potatoes under agrofilm is becoming increasingly widespread in areas of 20-30 acres, because allows to significantly reduce labor costs. The yield of potatoes planted under film in competent agriculture is no lower than when individually planting tubers in holes.

The earth is heavy and skinny

Prepare a mixture for spring per hundred square meters: 2-3 kg, 1-1.5 kg, 30-50 kg and the same amount of sand (this is filling the soil for planting). In the absence of humus, take 3-4 kg of superphosphate, 1.5 kg of potassium sulfate and 2-3 kg per hundred square meters without sand, but this option is worse, because a lot of ballast will get into the soil.

Next, when the top water disappears from the ground a little and the tubercles “wither,” you need to evenly scatter the mixture over the area under the potatoes and dig it up. When planting, add complex fertilizers to each hole: 3-5 g, or 2-3 g (about 30 or 20 granules, respectively, if the fertilizer is granular) and a pinch (1/4 - 1/3 teaspoon). An alternative is potato Kemira according to the instructions without bone meal. On acidic soils, add a pinch of ground eggshells or dolomite flour(liming of soil). Sprinkle the fertilizer nest with 5-7 cm of soil, throw in the tuber, and wrap it in soil. It is not recommended to plant potatoes under film on depleted soil.

Note: nitrophoska is an explosive substance. Heating it is unacceptable, incl. packaged with sunrays. Storage - strictly according to instructions!

Autumn under potatoes

Autumn filling of the soil for potatoes with fertilizers will have a beneficial effect on the yield and condition of the soil for any method of its cultivation. When planting potatoes over potatoes, autumn fertilization of the soil under them is necessary. An alternative to manure in fairly warm places is to fill the soil with plant fertilizers - green manure. After harvesting the potatoes, the area is sown with nitrogen-fixing plants: peas, clover, lupine, sainfoin, let them grow as long as they can before the cold weather. In the spring, the area with withered nitrogen fixers is plowed/dug up. In this case, refilling the soil before planting is not required; it is enough to add mixtures into the holes or over the area when planting under a film.

The soil is heavy and has average nutritional value.

It is not necessary to amend the soil before planting. Instead of complex fertilizers You can add the mixture into the holes at the rate of 1 square meter. m: a third of a glass of wood ash and half a shovel of humus. The mixture is prepared for the sown area and divided into portions according to the number of holes. When planting under film, the mixture is evenly scattered over the potato plot and the ground is dug up. Liming if necessary - as before. case.

The earth is light and depleted

In this case, it is necessary to fill the area under potatoes with nitrogen in the fall: add cow manure at the rate of 30 kg/acre or humus or food waste 60-70 kg per hundred square meters for fall plowing (digging). On acidic soils, add additional phosphate rock at 2-2.5 kg per hundred square meters. In the spring, amendments are added to the soil for planting, as in the case of heavy, depleted soil. The same complex fertilizers are added to the holes, mixed with a handful of humus and a pinch of grated onion peel or dried ground nettle. You can prepare the mixture in advance for the entire area, but without adding sand, and divide it into portions according to the number of holes. When planting under film, spring dressing is evenly distributed over the area.

Earth light normal

Autumn and spring refueling is not required. In the mixture for adding into the holes, the dose of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska is reduced by 2 times, but bone meal is given 1.5 times more. and won't hurt. Complex fertilizers can be replaced with ash and humus, as in the case of heavy normal soil.

Note: the above rates of applying fertilizers to the hole are averaged for Central Russia. They can be more accurately adjusted to the properties of the local soil (nutrient reserves in it), knowing that per 1 sq. m of potato crop during the growing season requires 5 g of phosphorus, 10-20 g of nitrogen and 15-25 g of potassium. The theft of fertilizers by weeds when applying fertilizer to the hole can be neglected.

Video: example of planting potatoes

Tomatoes

The plant is unpretentious, but the biobarrier from nitrates and phosphates between the greens and the fruits is weak: tomatoes “count” that the rotting pulp of the fruits will become fertilizer for the germinating seeds. That's why Under no circumstances should you give easily migrating mineral fertilizers to tomatoes when planting; in general, tomatoes are fed mainly as plants develop.

Note: tomato trick - after planting the seedlings, sprinkle the soil around each bush with a pinch baking soda, but so that not a single grain gets on the leaves and stem. The fruits will be sweet and without a white column inside.

When planting tomatoes, the soil must first be pickled, not abundantly watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or a filtered daily infusion of 10 g of baking powder in 10 liters of water. A day after etching the soil, the seedlings can be planted. Place into each well to a depth of approx. 10 cm with a pinch of wood ash and crushed into dust. Then fill the nest with 3-5 cm of soil and plant the sprout. If tomatoes are planted in a greenhouse, holes need to be dug approx. 20 cm deep, and instead of the indicated ingredients, mix nitrophoska with dry humus (sold in jars and bags) in such a way that it comes out in a tablespoon without top and a full handful of the finished mixture per hole. If nitroammophoska is used, the calculation is made based on a teaspoon with the top per hole. The same method is suitable for planting tomato seedlings in depleted soil.

Note: You should not fertilize the soil for tomatoes and cucumbers (see below) - with an extremely small amount of nutrition, the sprouts will stretch out and wither. Seeds for seedlings are soaked in a solution of humate or other growth stimulant, this is enough. Having then got out of the cramped favorable conditions, young plants will begin to develop rapidly and give a good harvest.

Video: example of planting tomatoes

cucumbers

They are less inclined than tomatoes to accumulate nitrates in fruits, but are more demanding on soil quality, and their superficial root system is weaker. Therefore, feeding cucumbers when planting or sowing is done in a slightly different way. For sowing in the ground or in a greenhouse universal remedy for fertilizing cucumbers – nitrophoska 30 g/m2. m or nitroammophoska 20 g/sq.m in open ground or 1.5 times more in a greenhouse. Cultivating cucumbers by planting seedlings will give an earlier harvest, but fertilizing the soil for it is more difficult:

Pepper vegetable

Vegetable (sweet, Bulgarian) is actually very far from plants of the pepper order. It is from the nightshade family; its relatives are potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, but its fruits are somewhat similar to pods of spice peppers. soil Bell pepper very draining; it cannot be planted after any of its relatives, as well as pumpkin, bulbous and root crops. In terms of its tendency to accumulate nitrates in fruits, it is somewhere between a tomato and a cucumber.

Vegetable peppers also have a rather rare feature: Sweet pepper seedlings definitely need feeding half a month after the first leaf appears. Its options, per 1 sq. m tray with seedlings, in descending order of effectiveness:

Kemira-lux, 1.5 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water;
Crystalon, 20 g per 10 liters of water;
Dry solution mineral fertilizers: 2 tsp. , 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 3 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.

Sweet peppers do not tolerate heavy, dense, poorly permeable soils, so before planting seedlings, you need to add 3-4 kg of peat or finely chopped straw to heavy soil. Vegetable pepper seedlings are planted in peat pots (it is not advisable to grow them in a common tray). Depending on the properties of the soil, sweet pepper seedlings require the following feeding when planting:

On dense soils - a handful of peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate in granules and the same amount of potassium sulfate for each pot.
On soils of average permeability and looseness (loamy) - before planting, 30-40 g of superphosphate and a glass of wood ash per 1 square meter. m of soil. Apply in dry weather and immediately dig up with a spade, otherwise a crust will form on the surface of the soil from the ash.
On loose permeable soils (sandy loam) - 30-40 g of superphosphate and half as much potassium chloride per 1 sq. m. Apply before planting, then dig up the ground in front of it by half a bayonet.

Strawberry

This is tasty and commercially valuable, but fertilizing it when planting is very labor-intensive:

Berry bushes

Wait for the harvest from fruit tree by autumn after planting it makes no sense, but berry bushes capable of becoming a pleasant exception, at least for a trial, and producing a bountiful harvest next year.

To do this, bush berry seedlings fertilize the trail when planted. way:

A 200-liter barrel is filled 1/3 full bird droppings, maybe fresh.
Fill to the top with water.
Allow to ferment for at least 5 days in a warm shaded or, better yet, dark place.
The sludge is drained: it, diluted 1:15-1:20, will be used for fertilizing watering of the garden during the growing season.
The sludge is raked out, dried in the shade and mixed with peat in a 1:1 ratio by volume.
Holes for seedlings are dug deeper by a bayonet (approx. 30 cm) than with normal planting.
15 cm of the resulting mixture is poured into each hole and covered with 15 cm of excavated soil.
Plant shrubs as usual.

Free fertilizers

The above-mentioned onion peels, nettle dust and wood ash are natural fertilizers, which in many cases can replace store-bought fertilizers for planting: they contain almost no nitrogen, but they contain a rich set of microelements.

Wood ash is obtained from the combustion of any plant waste, incl. weeds; It is often sold as furnace ash.

The nettles are mowed down to be as young as possible; in any case, before flowering, and dried for grinding for 2 weeks. From nettle you can also make a very effective fertilizing infusion for watering during the growing season, and fertilizers for the garden can be obtained from plant food waste: drunk tea, coffee grounds, banana peels, fallen leaves, etc., incl. for the winter in a city apartment, see, for example. video.

We study the timing - when to fertilize?

Natural fertilizers for the garden - what is useful in spring?

Different fertilizers for the garden, used in the spring, perform different functions: organic matter improves the structure of the soil, but mineral fertilizers provide plants with the necessary microelements: phosphorus and nitrogen. But potassium-based preparations accelerate the ripening of fruits.

to deliver required amount fertilizers to your plot and distribute them on the surface will require a lot of physical effort; It is recommended to fertilize vegetable crops before planting

According to experts, the spring season is the most favorable period for applying any type of fertilizer. These can be organic, mineral, as well as complex fertilizers for the garden. They begin to enrich the earth with nutrients after the snow melts, so that they do not “evaporate” along with the precipitation.

I also sow green manure in the fall and then incorporate it into the soil. Well heals the soil white mustard, but all green manure is good.
When to plant radishes If you have a desire to grow radishes in your garden,...
In case of nitrogen deficiency, leaves greenhouse cucumbers turn yellow and fall off; if there is not enough potassium, then the edges of the leaves will turn pale green, and if there is not enough phosphorus, they will be dark green.
By planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, any summer resident and gardener increases the yield of the crop, which is undoubtedly good. At the same time, already in early May you will be able to enjoy crispy lightly salted cucumbers; you can read about how to pickle them here. Knowing how, when and with what to fertilize cucumbers in a greenhouse, the yield, as a rule, increases by forty percent, in contrast to planting in open ground. Proper feeding cucumbers, a very important task for high yields. The main thing to remember is that organic fertilizers must be added in parts, because if the fertilizer is applied incorrectly, the vegetable may not bear fruit or even die.

Universal mineral fertilizers - salvation for the garden

The main pests of tomatoes: snails, slugs, caterpillars, Colorado potato beetles, mites, thrips, woodlice. Each pest and each disease has its own way to combat it; there are a variety of means to protect tomatoes on the market.

- change the place of planting tomatoes annually;

Growing tomatoes is not difficult, but you need to know a few things: when and how to plant them, how to fertilize tomatoes, how to care for them so that the harvest is large and the tomatoes are tasty.

Scheme for adding minerals to a plot of land with an area of 10 m2:

specific smell;
. It is very important to remember that even if you use best fertilizers for a vegetable garden, their quantity should be moderate. An excess can also negatively affect the condition of plants. When using mineral fertilizers and mixed fertilizers, you must strictly adhere to the dose - the rules for using a particular drug are indicated on the packaging.
Landscape design in the village

The land should not be fertilized, but “disinfected,” so to speak. Pour boiling water, potassium permanganate solution and other special preparations. And after planting, spray the seedlings with an anti-pest product.

nasotke.ru

Planting, care and how to fertilize tomatoes

How to plant lawn grass Many people undertake to make lawns. But they know how to plant lawn grass...

Not everyone knows how and what to fertilize cucumbers when planting. Many simply don’t do this, but in vain. Why? Read on.

Planting, care, watering

Cucumbers have weak roots; they do not penetrate deeper than 20 cm, so the properties of the soil have a special influence on them. As fertilizers, you can add manure, rotted garbage, peat, straw, or sawdust to the soil; it is advisable to enrich these additives with nitrogen. Mineral fertilizers will also not interfere with the growth of cucumbers in a greenhouse.

For good delicious harvest tomatoes need to be fertilized. From the beginning of seedling picking until flowering, feed the tomatoes with mineral fertilizers, and when fruits appear, feed them with potash fertilizers. It would be correct to use granular long-acting fertilizers, which need to be mixed with the soil before planting seedlings, and after the berries set, use special fertilizers for tomatoes, for example: seaweed extract.

Diseases, pests, what to do and how to fertilize tomatoes

- destroy affected tomatoes;

At the tomato planting site, the soil needs to be prepared in the fall: add garden compost, ash, eggshells. It is better to grow tomatoes through seedlings, that is in early spring Plant the seeds at home, and then plant the grown seedlings in the ground. Before planting tomatoes, you need to warm up the beds; you should plant them when there is already an established positive temperature, and install supports.

nitrogen preparations (urea, urea or ammonium nitrate) – 300–350 grams;

if there is no farm nearby, then finding organic matter is quite problematic;

Organic contains a large number of microelements, and it perfectly loosens the soil. In the countryside, such fertilizers can be found in almost every yard, so their cost is quite low, especially since organic matter is applied to the garden once every three years.

Preparing the garden in spring

It's not about fertilizers. Potatoes are also nightshades and diseases accumulate.

How to do compost pit Compost is an excellent fertilizer for the garden. You can do it yourself...

Since cucumbers are not planted very deep, the substances necessary for plant growth are hardly delivered to it from the depths of the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to use good compost before planting them. Fertilizers for planting this crop can be used both purchased and natural organic. If you choose purchased fertilizers, then before fertilizing the cucumbers when planting, add regular manure to the ground.

During the entire growth period of cucumbers in the greenhouse period, you should not feed them more than five times. The first time it is necessary to feed when flowering begins, and then four more times at the time of fruiting. Chicken droppings and mullein are perfect for these purposes. To replace them, you can use ready-made fertilizers, having previously purchased them at a farm store.

How to fertilize cucumbers? Many novice gardeners and summer residents ask a similar question. We offer you the simplest and important tips experienced gardeners.

OgorodSadovod.com

How to fertilize cucumbers in the garden and greenhouse

- do not plant tomatoes next to potatoes;

Tomatoes need to be pinched (that is, plucked off side shoots), if required by the variety and environment(middle and verified latitudes), then remove the lower leaves until the ovary, but if the tomatoes grow in a hot zone, then there is no need to remove the leaves in this way. You should monitor the soil so that it does not dry out or be too wet, and remove weeds. When watering tomatoes, try to prevent water from getting on the leaves, fruits and trunk, as this can cause fungal diseases. best watering- drip.

phosphorus preparations – 250 grams;

How to fertilize cucumbers in a greenhouse

bird droppings or fresh manure can burn the roots of some plants.

The most positive effect is observed from humus (rotted manure), which is scattered over land plot 3-4 weeks before digging the soil. Also, in addition to manure, organic fertilizers include bird droppings, compost and peat.

Spring fertilizer for the garden

This year you can only spill the soil with phytosporin or potassium permanganate. Basically, potatoes are afraid of late blight, from which we actually try to protect potatoes, and scab is also a fungal disease.

Mustard, phacelia, vetch-oat mixture. Right as soon as it gets warm (a month before landing cultivated plants) sow. So much for crop rotation. It is not necessary to sow just one thing, you can mix the seeds and each will add something different to the soil))

Experienced gardeners take from six to eight kilograms of manure per 1 square meter and add one glass of ash to it. Humus is added from four to five kilograms per 1 square meter. They also use fine decomposed peat at the rate of eight to ten kilograms per 1 square meter. The difference between these fertilizers is that manure is applied in the fall when digging the ground, and humus is used immediately before planting cucumbers in the ground. At the same time, many advise fertilizing the soil with phosphorus or potassium fertilizers. But this can only be done if there is enough humus in the soil.

IMPORTANT: If the soil is sandy, then it requires nitrogen fertilizers, and if it is floodplain, then it is better to take potassium fertilizers.

The store offers a huge amount of fertilizers for cucumbers, but will they produce the results written on the package? And the reaction of any plant to fertilizer and feeding is difficult to predict. So is it necessary to do this at all? Need to! We have previously written about how to feed onions, and cucumbers are no exception.

How to fertilize cucumbers when planting

- weed the beds;

Tomatoes are susceptible various diseases and can be attacked by various pests. The most common diseases: fungal infections, late blight, blossom end rot, brown spot, tobacco mosaic.

Potassium preparations (can be replaced with wood ash) – 200 grams.

There are no problems with finding mineral fertilizers - they can be purchased at gardening stores or at the market. They are sold in concentrated form, making them much easier to work with. The main thing is to follow the dosages recommended by the manufacturer. Granular nitrogen and phosphorus preparations are applied to the soil immediately before digging.

To enrich the area, it is enough to distribute a ten-liter bucket of humus per 1 m2.
We recommend that you read
So cultivate the soil and tubers before planting. And after harvesting, be sure to sow green manure. I plant potatoes in one place all the time, and there is no late blight, I always plant green manure - rye, mustard. The earth is magnificent after them.
In general, nightshades are not planted after nightshades. It’s too painful for them to catch all sorts of diseases from each other.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated, the main thing is to know what and when cucumbers need and how to fertilize them correctly, and then they will definitely delight you with their generous harvest.

vopros-kote.com

How to fertilize the soil so that after potatoes you can plant nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants)?

MaryM

If warming comes after a long cold spell, be sure to add ammonium nitrate to the soil. Initially, add it to the grooves, and then pour plenty of water.

Nellya Alpatova (Yatkevich)

On soil well fertilized with organic matter, cucumbers grow much better and begin to bear fruit faster, since it contains large quantities of micronutrients. About twenty percent of minerals enter cucumbers during the flowering period until the first ovaries appear. The remaining seventy percent occurs during the fertile period. Therefore, even if cold weather has begun, cucumbers need to be watered often and fed through the leaves.

Serafima Arkadyevna

- you can work (pruning, pinching, shaping) only with dry plants;

Rosa Zueva

Therefore it follows:

Alla Lebedeva

In the summer, when plant growth is most intense, fertilizing the soil is repeated, but the dose is reduced by 3 times. Very convenient to deposit useful material through the system drip irrigation- this way you probably won’t make a mistake with the dosage, and all plants will receive the same dose.

Husky

It is desirable that the granules are located at a depth of about 20 cm. Thus, all useful substances will be very close to the root system.

Olga

In addition to numerous advantages, natural fertilizers have several disadvantages:

Productivity of fruit and vegetable crops directly depends on the composition, physical properties soil and its fertility. Negative soil qualities, such as poor air permeability, stagnant water, increased moisture permeability, lack of nutrients, can be neutralized by applying. Here we will consider the dependence of the composition and fertility of the soil on the type of fertilizer, what fertilizer is applied to specific soils and in what quantity. Fertilizers are the key to the future harvest, so you need to pay serious attention to this - what and how to fertilize the soil.
I invite you to the group on Subscribe.ru for summer residents and gardeners: "Country Hobbies"

How to fertilize the soil

Fertilizers are the key to the future harvest

Getting to know the type and composition of soils

Proper use of fertilizers is impossible without taking into account the structure and mechanical composition of the soil. Based on the number and size of mineral particles, soils are divided into the following types:

Clayey– compacted, contain little air, but enough nutrients. They retain moisture and, after drying, form a crust that impedes the aeration of plants and, as a result, poor decomposition of organic matter.
Sandy and sandy loam– low-fertility, this is due to an insufficient amount of organic matter. The soils contain a lot of sand and very few silt particles. They quickly pass water through which nutrients are washed out. A sufficient amount of oxygen promotes the rapid decomposition of organic residues.
Peaty marshy– contain enough organic substances, but they are often in an inaccessible form that is poorly absorbed by plants; soils are poor in phosphorus and potassium.

Vegetable crops are demanding on soil fertility. During the growth process they consume a lot of nutrients. For getting good harvest it is necessary to periodically replenish their quantity through fertilizers.

Brief classification of fertilizers

All fertilizers are divided into two main large groups:

Organic – manure, humus, peat, bird droppings, slurry, sapropel

Mineral - in turn divided into:

Nitrogen - urea, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate.
Phosphorus - superphosphate, double superphosphate.
Potash - potassium sulfate, potassium chloride. Read in detail.

Complex - potassium nitrate, ammophos, nitrophoska, ash. These fertilizers contain more than two nutrients.

Microfertilizers are required by plants in minimum quantity, affect their growth and quality. These are copper, molybdenum, zinc, boron, manganese.

The relationship between soil composition and fertilizers

Clay soils require additional application of organic fertilizers in the amount of 6 - 10 kg/sq. m at the first cultivation, 3-4 kg/sq. m – for subsequent ones. Organic matter is added for digging in spring or autumn. It can be humus, sapropel, peat. Fresh manure cannot be applied; it causes burns to the underground parts of the plants.

Sandy and sandy loam. You can compensate for the deficiency and improve the moisture capacity of sandy and sandy loam soil by constantly applying organic fertilizers. The use of mineral fertilizers without organic ones is undesirable. This leads to an increase in the concentration of salts in the soil.

On peat-boggy soils it is necessary to improve the absorption of nitrogen by plants. To do this, it is necessary to increase the vital activity of soil microorganisms. For this purpose, slurry, manure, sapropel, bird droppings and microbiological preparations are used. Phosphorus and potassium are added in increased doses. Elements are contained in sufficient quantities in wood ash. It is added at the rate of 50 – 60 g/m²

Bird droppings are an economical, concentrated organic fertilizer, good for fertilizing. It is applied to the soil in dry crushed form between rows in an amount of 20 – 50 g/m². To obtain a solution of 15–20 parts of water, take one part of bird droppings. The composition is infused for 2 - 3 days. With longer exposure, nitrogen begins to evaporate.

A high yield cannot be obtained using only organic fertilizers. Plants need minerals, but they cannot be used without measure. The doses of fertilizers applied are different and depend on the type of plant and the content of the nutrient element, and range from 3-4 to 16 - 24 grams per 10 liters of water. During fertilizing, dissolved fertilizers are applied to the soil at the rate of 5 - 8 liters of water per m². After fertilizing, the soil must be loosened.

For many, it may be a “discovery” that agronomy is an exact science that allows you to calculate the expected yield. Forecasts are made for each crop separately, taking into account the actual amount of fertilizer in the soil, data on the application of fertilizers per hundredweight of product, type and variety of plants, percentage of humus and temperature conditions development in different phases for each climate zone. Using such calculations, you can achieve maximum results with minimal financial costs.

In addition, precise rationing of applied fertilizers eliminates the appearance of nitrates in plants - substances that are very harmful to the human body. And one last thing. Improper application of mineral fertilizers can significantly reduce the natural fertility of the soil and deteriorate its structure, and these are very important characteristics of any garden plot.

In spring, it is advisable to apply a full range of fertilizers. Why?

It is possible to more accurately calculate the dose for each individual crop. In this case, predecessors are taken into account.
The amount of fertilizers is greatly reduced. The fact is that after autumn application, approximately 80% of the original amount of active substances remains in the soil by spring. This figure is not universal; some minerals (nitrogen) are very quickly washed out of the soil, while others tend to accumulate in it (potassium). If applied in the fall, the dose should be increased taking these factors into account.

An exception to this rule should be made for organic fertilizer (other than compost). Fresh organic matter introduced in the spring will not have time to rot and will not be fully absorbed by the plants. This, of course, does not matter, the organic matter will remain for next year, but labor costs increase.

Important note. You should never apply fresh cattle manure; this not only gives the plants a minimum of nutrients, but also brings big problems for plant growers. In fresh manure, more than 90% of weed seeds remain viable. If you apply such fertilizers in the spring, then at the same time a massive sowing of weeds is done, and then it is very difficult to fight them.

All organic matter must be rotted (composted) subject to special conditions. If these are ordinary leaves and waste from garden beds, then it is enough to make special containers for them. Cattle manure should be stored in large piles for at least two years. During this time, weed seeds that have fallen into manure from grass or hay will lose their germination.

When to fertilize in spring

The question worries many summer residents, and not only them. There are three periods in total for applying fertilizers in the spring, each of them has its own characteristics.

Time	Efficiency
	As soon as the snow cover begins to melt, fertilizers are scattered over it. The easiest and fastest, but most unsuccessful method. The reason is real - some of the fertilizers will be washed away by melt water, and it is even theoretically impossible to calculate the amount of remaining nutrients. This method can be considered justified only in one case - it was not possible to introduce plowed soil in the fall, and in the spring it is necessary to carry out too much work. Organic fertilizers It is prohibited to enter in this way.
	An effective method that gives maximum results. Fertilizers have a reserve of time to penetrate into the soil to the depth of the root system. After applying fertilizer, it is better to immediately cover it with a layer of soil. If this is not possible, then closure is performed during sowing.
	A rather complex and dangerous method, there is a high probability of an error with the norm. If you have modern agricultural sowing equipment, then such application of mineral fertilizers is justified. If fertilization is done manually, then it is better not to use this technique.

In any case, you need to remember the main rule - fertilizers must be applied fractionally as the plants develop, at least three times during the growing season and ripening. You should never try to give the entire dose at once; it will do nothing but harm. When, how much and what kind of fertilizers need to be applied depends on the specific type of plant and the expected harvest. In addition, you should consider which part of the plant is used for food: roots, stems and leaves or fruits. This is a separate and complex topic that needs to be discussed in a separate article.

Mineral fertilizers for spring application

First you need to say a few words about the distinctive features various types mineral fertilizers, this will make it easier to navigate the deadlines. All mineral nutrients are divided into three groups according to their effects on plant development:

nitrogen. Significantly increases the green mass of plants. Therefore, the increased dose should be for salads, cabbage, etc.;
phosphorus. Increases the number and weight of fruits. It is necessary to increase the dose for all grains, strawberries, peas, etc.;
potassium. Improves the development of the root system. Application rates increase for root crops: carrots, beets, potatoes, etc.

Of course, the effect of fertilizers is much more complex, but it is in these areas that the maximum impact is observed. It must be remembered that there cannot be a fruit harvest without roots and leaves; plants require feeding with all substances. For such purposes, complex fertilizers (liquid or granular) are produced. Before applying, you need to carefully study the percentage composition of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus, decide on the required indicators and only then buy and apply. For amateur gardeners, many manufacturers immediately indicate on the packaging the names of the crops for which it is recommended to apply this or that complex fertilizer and the approximate dose.

As for the quantity, there are no general advice does not exist for all cases. Experienced gardeners Once every two to three years, they analyze the soil for the state of residual minerals (they are always present in the soil in one quantity or another) and the percentage of humus. Next, the quantity for each type of fertilizer necessary for the normal development of plants is calculated, and the missing dose is determined. In most cases, it is enough to apply 200–400 g per 10 m2 of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen; the specific ratio of fertilizers depends on the crops grown and the natural fertility of the soil.

Fertilizer application

In the spring, during germination, it is first necessary to ensure maximum development of the root system; for this, fertilizers containing a lot of potassium are added to the soil. Next, to accelerate the development of green mass, the plants should be fed with nitrogen and phosphorus should be added during fruit ripening.

Important. Plants react differently to each type of fertilizer. If you don’t particularly need to monitor the dose of potassium (plants will never consume excess), then nitrogen must be handled extremely carefully (the amount of nitrogen used by plants is not controlled, the leaves become dark green, very large and unsuitable for consumption). Agronomists strongly recommend keeping a journal in which to make notes about the timing of fertilizer application, their name and quantity. In addition, the specific site must be indicated, what plants were grown on it and how much was harvested. To compile and control crop rotation, you need to have a separate notebook.

Complex mineral fertilizers

In spring you can apply a full range of complex fertilizers. Their use has a number of advantages over ordinary ones.

It is possible to select the percentage composition of nutrients taking into account the organic needs of each crop.
The frequency of fertilization is significantly reduced, plant care is made easier, and their productivity increases.

Depending on the type, they are used for application to the soil before preparation or as top dressing during the growing season.

Microelements

Improves the health of plants, reduces the likelihood of viral and bacterial diseases, improve their resistance to unfavorable growing conditions. They are applied in early spring during pre-sowing soil preparation. Doses must be carefully calculated independently or followed the manufacturers' recommendations. It is advisable to do a chemical analysis of the soil before application. Exceeding the recommended amount of microelements can cause inhibition of plant growth.

Organic fertilizers for spring application

As mentioned above, in the spring you should not apply fresh manure from animals that eat grass or hay. Organic fertilizers have one very important advantage before inorganic ones - they not only serve as an excellent fertilizer for plants, but also at the same time significantly improve the mechanical structure of heavy soils and increase the amount of natural humus. Humus is bacteria that actively participate in the absorption of minerals by plants.

Humus. It is recommended to apply before directly preparing the soil for spring sowing; it requires immediate covering of the soil. Otherwise, most organic compounds will quickly evaporate.
Humus
It is applied at the same time and using the same technology as manure. But you should be very careful with this fertilizer. Some unscrupulous manufacturers sell peat with high acidity. Its application not only reduces yields, but also causes significant damage to the soil. Subsequently, they will have to be deoxidized, which means additional loss of time and money.
A very aggressive fertilizer; if the dose is exceeded, it can significantly damage plants. The litter must be diluted with water before application. It is advisable to water the plants in the spring after planting and during the next feeding.
. It is made from various organic waste, including food waste. It is applied during pre-sowing soil preparation with simultaneous incorporation. A very valuable fertilizer universal use, but only if prepared with unconditional compliance with agricultural technology.
The amount can not be regulated, it is not washed out of the soil, plants use only the right amount of nutrients. Disadvantages - difficulties during spring application; work should only be done in calm weather. Experienced gardeners recommend sprinkling spring snow with ash - the soil under the beds warms up much faster.
. There is still an unusual fertilizer in our country, one of the most effective and environmentally friendly. Worms are brought into the ground in the spring when it warms up to +12 at a depth of 10–15 cm. Work should be carried out carefully, upper layer can be subjected to pre-sowing treatment a few days after adding worms. Disadvantage: highly productive heat-loving worms are used for breeding; most of them die in winter. If agricultural technology is followed correctly, then worms will also live in ordinary soil, although their number is not enough to significantly increase productivity.
They are widely used among flower growers and gardeners. The preparations contain microorganisms that improve the absorption of minerals from the soil. This is the same humus, only in a concentrated state. It is applied in the spring during sowing of various crops; the soils must be warmed up to optimal temperatures. Some bacteria convert forms of mineral substances inaccessible to plants into accessible ones, and some accumulate nitrogen from the air and fix it on the root system of plants.
It is made from organic sediments of reservoirs; it can be applied as before spring training soil and during sowing work. Be sure to cover with earth.

Using the information provided, it will be possible to more consciously choose the time, method, name and amount of fertilizer to apply in the spring.

Video - Fertilizing strawberries

Many people associate autumn with the end summer season. But for a real gardener, this is the time to prepare the soil for the new harvest year. Over time, the soil significantly depletes its resources, which leads to a decrease in yield and fertility. This is why it is recommended to regularly soil fertilizers in autumn period.

The fact that nutrition is called autumn does not mean that it is necessary to start acting only when frost sets in. Even in the summer, after picking strawberries, raspberries, and fruits from trees, it is important to fertilize the plants. It is recommended to do this before the end of September. If you start fertilizing the soil at a later period, this may not bring the desired result, since the plant ends the growing season and begins to enter a dormant state, in which, unfortunately, nutrients are not absorbed.

As for the soil on which vegetables and crops were grown, it requires digging. At the same time, you cannot break the lumps that form during the process. Such a measure will contribute not only to the extinction of weeds and pests, but also to the full respiration of the soil. Fertilizer is applied before digging. Let's look at the main types of nutrients.

Mineral fertilizers of the land in the fall before winter

The soil accepts fertilizers better in liquid form - the roots receive nutrition faster, and the composition penetrates into the soil. You should be very careful when choosing food, as there is a huge variety of them. You need to carefully study the composition on the packaging. There are fertilizers for lawns, shrubs, coniferous trees, perennials, etc. They already contain all the substances necessary for the plant, providing complete nutrition.

The packaging also contains precise instructions for use. It is recommended to strictly adhere to it, since even the slightest excess of the dose can lead to dire consequences. The most important thing is that it should be intended for autumn use.

Organic fertilizers

Organic or natural fertilizers promote excellent mail ratios, making it receptive and nutritious. The most popular include:

Manure. A valuable type of droppings that is responsible for soil fertility. It is used when digging up the soil. You cannot apply it directly to the roots - it can burn them.

Ash. Contains very nutritious ingredients. Formed after burning trees and weeds. Acceptable rate use – once every 2-4 years.
Peat. Any type of peat contains many nutrients.
Compost. It is a natural fertilizer obtained by rotting organic components. Its use guarantees high fertility.

You can also sprinkle the soil with grass sawdust and then dig it up. This, of course, is not, but they serve as food for the necessary microorganisms. Today it is customary to plant so-called green manure plants. They are planted at the end of summer, allowed to grow a little, and then the top layer of soil is lightly dug up. Such green manures can be alfalfa, clover, vetch, rye or oats. We hope that this information will help you carry out high-quality and productive fertilization of the land in the autumn. For clarity, we recommend watching the video.

How to feed plants and vegetables in spring? What fertilizers are applied to the soil in the fall in the garden and vegetable garden?