In a private house      06/17/2019

How to plant cedar and grow a cedar grove on the site. Planting cedar in the country, as well as other useful and amazing plants. Where to plant cedar in the garden plot

CEDARS - how to plant cedar seedlings

So, we have chosen a place for planting cedar seedlings. All that remains is to plant them. You can plant cedars in any soil. The hole is too deep, there is no need to dig for this. If the cedar is planted on a lawn-covered area, cut out a circle of turf with a diameter of approximately 50 cm. It will turn out beautifully, and there will be room for initial development cedar is quite enough. We plant the cedar - without deepening it, fill the hole with earth and water it abundantly. After the water is completely absorbed, we scatter a little dry soil over the surface of the soil. If you have beautiful pebbles, you can cover the ground with them around our cedar. And it will turn out very beautifully, and the moisture will be better preserved, and there will be almost no weeds! Or you can plant a stone rose around a cedar tree. It will be beautiful - no words. Or - low-growing and decorative cereal grass. Low-growing sedums, tenacious, decorative clover and thyme are also suitable for these purposes. Be sure to protect the planted seedling from accidental trampling. Suitable for this is a small decorative fence, or a simple homemade tripod. In general, cedar trees grow well and do not require particularly careful care. They won't take up much of our time...

How to grow cedar on a plot

Wanting to create an evergreen corner on their site where they can relax and get enough of the clean, fragrant air, many gardeners decide to plant cedar. This majestic tree has many advantages that have been valued for many centuries: healing properties, decorative, durable and resistant to harsh winters. In addition, this crop is famous for its nutritious, healthy and extremely tasty nuts, which are doubly pleasant to grow with your own hands. Siberian and European cedar take root well in our area, seedlings of which can be purchased in most nurseries. However, it is not difficult to grow it yourself, taking into account some of the features of this plant.

How to grow cedar seedlings yourself

You can get young cedars in several ways: vegetatively (grafting onto an ordinary pine, cuttings) or seeds. The latter method has gained the most popularity. In this case, in the fall, a month before the expected freezing of the soil, the seeds are sown in previously prepared ridges, after keeping the seeds for a couple of hours in a solution of potassium permanganate that destroys fungal diseases.

To protect against rodents and birds, which also like to eat pine nuts, it is better to cover them spruce branches. And the fragile shoots that appear in the spring should be kept under a plastic film, which can be removed only when the shells fall off. You can sow cedar in the spring, having previously carried out stratification.

Seeds are left for 4-6 days in warm water, changing it after 1-2 days, then thoroughly grind it with peat chips or river sand. This mixture is kept at room temperature, periodically moistening and stirring. After 50-60 days, the seeds hatch, after which they should be transferred to a cold place, stored at temperatures close to zero until sowing in April-May. When the sprouts appear in the form of a bent knee (photo below), the seedlings must be dug up, sorted, and trimmed roots and plant at the same depth under a peg according to the 20x20 or 20x10 cm pattern.

Even with the best intentions, you should not dig up or loosen the soil next to a cedar seedling - this will only cause harm. 2-3 years after picking, young plants will become good planting material, because growing cedar from a seedling with a powerful root system is much easier and faster.

Planting and care

Before you plant cedar in your garden, you should know that this plant is not suitable for growing in dry, sandy soil. Sandy loam soils or moist loams, which are closest in composition to natural growing conditions, are suitable for it.

It is advisable to water the soil along the perimeter of the crown from time to time, adding mineral and, in the spring, organic fertilizers. We must not forget about the formation of the crown. Most often, the tree is given a spreading, low-pubescent form.

During the first 10-15 years, you can remove the lower branches up to 2-2.5 meters, stretching the pruning time over several years. And so that destructive fungal spores do not settle at the site of the cuts, it is better to lubricate the wounds with garden varnish.

Cedars were planted in Dimitrovgrad for the first time

Cedar in the garden

When thinking about how to grow a cedar seedling strong and beautiful, you should not lose sight of its proximity to other garden crops. When designing the landscape design of a site, it is important to take into account that planting it alone leads to the development of small and non-germinating seeds. Since coniferous plants need cross-pollination, it is better to plant them in groups of 3-4 trees, maintaining a distance of 5-8 meters.

You can plant low-growing ones between the seedlings fruit trees or berry bushes. Cedars thrive in proximity to lupine, which becomes a biological fertilizer for it for a long time. Planting and caring for Siberian cedar( The given author's recommendations are also fully suitable for European cedar and Korean cedar).When planting Siberian cedar, the recommended distance between trees is at least 8 m.

When growing seedlings in containers, the root system is strongly twisted, so before planting it is necessary to straighten the ends of the roots. The root system of the seedling should be freely placed in the planting hole without bending the ends of the roots. At the same time, taking into account the superficial nature of the distribution of the root system of Siberian pine, the roots should be located within the upper fertile layer of soil.

In central Russia the soils are thin. The thickness of the fertile layer rarely exceeds 20 cm. When planting cedar in heavy clay soil, it is necessary to add sand to the planting hole.

  • Dig a planting hole 1 m deep, 1.8 m in diameter (when planting large cedars, the diameter is larger). Fill the hole with a mixture of fertile soil and sand (if the soil on the site is clayey), if the soil is sandy loam, sand is not required. Add 10 buckets of compost on top and Dig it thoroughly.

Top 20cm. the soil layer should be light fertile sandy loam (to provide air access to the cedar roots).

  • Carefully remove the seedling from the container (first crimp the walls of the container - it will be easier to remove the soil ball). Straighten the twisted ends of the roots of the seedling without destroying the soil ball. Place the roots of the seedling in a bucket of water (the roots should not dry out when planting). Form in the upper part of the planting hole a cone of soil and carefully spread the roots of the seedling over it.

If the cedar crown is asymmetrical, the less developed side is placed to the south (in the south direction the branches grow faster and the crown is leveled out). When planting large seedlings, drive a strong stake into the center of the hole and tie the cedar stem to the stake with a fabric tape (“figure of eight”).

  • Cover the roots with soil and compact the soil with your hands. Form a ring of soil around the planting hole and water the seedling generously (about 5 buckets of water). Mulch the surface of the soil with compost (after the water has been absorbed into the soil).

The soil in the hole will settle by 8-10 cm, so plant the cedar in a small mound so that after settling, the root collar will be at soil level. In damp areas, with a high level groundwater, cedars are planted in bulk areas, 0.4-0.8 m high, with a diameter of at least 3 m. The soil is first dug up with the addition of compost and sand (if the soil is clay).

Brushwood is placed in the areas (supplying cedar nutrition, improving soil structure). Along the edges, it is advisable to lay layers of turf (protection from soil erosion). The active part of the root system (small suction roots) of the cedar is located directly under the forest floor.

Therefore, when planting cedar, it is imperative to mulch the soil surface to maintain high fertility and good aeration of its top layer. The best mulch is forest litter from deciduous stands.

In such a substrate, the activity of soil animals and microorganisms is active. It contains the mycelium of fungi - symbionts that improve the mineral nutrition of Siberian pine and protect its root system from pathogens of root sponge and other diseases. A layer of mulch retains moisture in the top layer of soil, which is especially important when growing cedar on light sandy loam, and on heavy clay soil protects its root system from being squeezed out in winter.

It is necessary to add a layer of mulch annually to stimulate the formation of adventitious roots in the cedar, which enhance its growth. During dry periods, cedar trees must be watered to maintain the moisture of the top layer of soil. It is also advisable to periodically spray the crown of young cedars with water in the evening to remove dust and improve gas exchange through the stomata in the needles. The soil under cedars cannot be dug up - the roots will be cut off (loosening only its top layer is permissible). Side branches of a cedar cannot be removed (the larger the needles , the faster the cedar grows). When small cotton balls appear on the needles (underneath there are small hermes sucking aphids), wash them off with a strong stream of water and treat the shoots with ACTELLIK. Trees and shrubs should not shade cedars.

On open place cedar forms a decorative spreading crown, is resistant to wind and snow, begins to bear fruit earlier and is characterized by greater productivity. Cedar is a self-pollinating species, but for better cross-pollination it is advisable to plant not single trees, but groups of 3-4 trees (at a distance of 8-20m . from each other).For more information about Siberian cedar and the peculiarities of its cultivation, see the author’s website “Growing Siberian cedar in central Russia” http://kedrovik.forest.ru. Below are my detailed step-by-step recommendations on planting cedar.

Planting a Siberian cedar seedling The root system of the seedling should be located within the top fertile soil layer on the site (about 20cm).

In the area of ​​the root system and above it there should be light, fertile sandy soil (to ensure air access to the roots of the seedling). During the growing season, it is necessary to fertilize the seedling 3 times with a solution of potassium sulfate - 20g/10l. water (water around the tree trunk, consumption - 10 liters per seat).

Feeding - at the end of May, June and July. Nitrogen fertilizers can be used only one year after planting. Regular watering is necessary in dry weather so that the top 5 cm layer of soil does not dry out.

Mulch is forest litter prepared under alder, birch, or hazel (you can use mown grass). The soil in the hole will settle by 8 - 10 cm, so the seedling must be planted in a small mound (taking into account soil settlement). Planting Siberian cedar.

Photos were kindly provided by the customer Igor Mikhailovich Troshin. Photo 1. Cedar removed from the container Photo 2. Planting hole 1 m deep, 1.8 m in diameter Photo 3. Fill the planting hole with a mixture of the top fertile soil layer with compost (if the soil is clayey, add sand to the mixture) Mixture when filling the hole , constantly moisten so that there are no voids. Photo 4. Fill the upper part of the planting hole with fertile sandy loam (lighter fertile soil) and form a gentle cone of soil. The planting hole must be prepared in advance, 2-3 days before planting the cedar, so that the water is absorbed into soil and the soil has settled! Photo 5. Place the cedar soil ball in the center of the planting hole, free the twisted ends of the roots (without destroying the ball) and spread the roots along the soil cone. Photo 6. Fill the roots with fertile sandy loam, compact the soil with your hands, form a ring around the planting hole roll the soil and water the soil in the planting hole generously (about 50 liters of water) Photo 7. After the water is absorbed into the soil, mulch the soil surface 3cm. layer of compost and, additionally, 5 cm. a layer of mowed grass (to retain moisture in the soil) Photo 8. Pieces of turf can be laid along the edge of the planting hole. Photo 9. Cedar - a year after planting. Photo 10.

Cedar - 3 years after planting. I wish you success in growing these wonderful trees. Sincerely, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Ageev Alexander Borisovich. Siberian cedar, landing, care, varieties, cedars, ornamental trees and bushes, bushes and trees

Cedar forests are healing for humans. The air there is literally sterile, and this is not surprising, because cedar produces phytoncides that kill pathogenic bacteria. But is it really possible to raise a taiga forest dweller in our gardens? Let's try to reveal this “terrible secret”.

Cedar is a powerful coniferous tree up to 40 m high with a spreading multi-stage crown, and you can’t clasp the trunk with your hands, because its diameter can reach 3 m. Can you imagine how much area a suburban area should have for the cedar to feel at ease? But for those who cannot boast of a large plot area, there is an alternative: Russian breeders have developed low-growing varieties of Siberian cedar that will not take up much space, but will bring considerable benefits.

The botanical name of cedar is Siberian pine. In nature, there are only 5 species of the mighty giant and a couple of dozen of them decorative varieties, of which only varieties of Siberian cedar produce edible seeds (nuts).

It can live in one place for up to 800 years, and is well adapted to the harsh climate of Siberia and central Russia. That's why we'll talk about him. For what merits did we fall in love with Siberian cedar?

Firstly, it is unusually decorative throughout the year and looks great not only in summer, but also in winter - turning green above the snow-white snowdrifts. Secondly, for its tasty and healthy fruits, from which healing cedar oil is produced.

Thirdly, for resin-resin, which has a wound-healing effect, for healing pine needles, from which tinctures are made that help with various ailments, and even for nut shells, which have been used for many years in folk medicine. And, of course, for the healing smell that you want to not only breathe, but enjoy, swallow it, recharging with the vigor of cedar.

If you already have a Siberian cedar growing in your dacha, be sure to set up a resting place in its shade. By resting under a tree even for 1 hour a day, it is quite possible to recover from some diseases, because cedar is able to accumulate healing energy and give it to people.

And if you have suburban area There is no decorative healer yet, be sure to plant one.

Growing cedar

You can grow cedar from seeds or by purchasing a cedar seedling from a nursery.

When planting cedar, observe spatial orientation: the distance between trees should be 5-7 m, and the distance from your house and country buildings to the cedar should be at least 3 m. If you plant cedar closer, its powerful roots can damage the foundation of structures. When planting cedar, keep in mind that it loves clay, well-fertilized soils, is shade-tolerant and frost-resistant.

Planting cedar seedlings When choosing cedar seedlings in a nursery, purchase those that “sit” in containers, in as a last resort– without containers, but with big lump soil on roots; in this case, the transplant should be successful. Buy 2-3 year old seedlings.

This best option in price/quality ratio. At this age, seedlings range in size from 30 cm to 3 m, depending on the cedar variety. Discard those plants that have exposed roots and yellow, withered needles.

It is quite possible that they were simply dug out of the forest and put up for sale. And forest seedlings take root very poorly in a new place.

So, let's start planting cedar: Dig up the entire area where you plan to plant cedars, and if you are planting one tree, then dig up the soil within a radius of 3 m around the planting hole. Maintain a distance between pits of 4 to 6 m (for dwarf varieties- less).

Make the size of the planting hole 30-40% larger than the size of the tree’s earthen ball. If your dacha soil is clay or loamy, then cedar seedlings can be planted directly into it.

But if it is sandstone, then mix the soil removed from the hole with peat and clay in the proportion: 2:1:2. Before planting a seedling, it is useful to dip its roots in a creamy clay solution.

Strengthen the support (peg) in the planting hole, then place the seedling there and cover everything with earth. Tie the above-ground part of the seedling to the support with twine.

Water the plant moderately and continue watering for 2 weeks at a frequency of 1 watering every 2-3 days (if there is no rain, of course). How to grow cedar from seeds You can take a longer route: grow cedar from a nut.

In the fall, collect ripe cones and select the best quality vigorous nuts. Keep the nuts for 2-3 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then put them in warm water for 3 days. The water needs to be changed daily.

Then place the nuts in wooden boxes with peat or coarse sand, deepen them 1-1.5 cm with your fingers and lightly sprinkle with damp sawdust. Pre-make holes in the boxes: on the sides and on the bottom to ensure the flow of oxygen.

Now the seeds are ready for stratification (cold keeping). Place the boxes until spring in a room with a temperature of +3 to +5 ° C (can be in the refrigerator) and periodically moisten the soil, and two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground bring the boxes into a warm room.

At the end of May, the seedlings are ready for planting. Cedar seeds can be sown in open ground without prior germination, but in this case the germination rate will be small. If you decide on such an experiment, organize a garden bed somewhere in the shade in the fall.

Add peat and clay to the soil (if necessary). Make grooves at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, deepen them by 1-2 cm. Place the nuts there at a distance of 6-8 cm from each other and cover the grooves with peat or sawdust.

After wintering, in May-June, some of the seeds should germinate. Then cover the bed with the seedlings with gauze so that the seedlings are not damaged by birds, and after a month, when the little Siberian has grown up, remove the gauze.

And if you want the cedar to remember you and treat your whole family favorably, hold its nuts in your mouth for just one or two minutes before planting (as bioenergeticists advise). It should be noted that fruiting of Siberian cedar begins only from the 30th year of life.

In order to speed up this process, a cedar seedling is grafted with a cutting from an adult fruit-bearing tree. In this case, you will not get a majestic giant - the cedar will not grow higher than 5 m, but it will bear fruit already 5 years after planting.

Cedar care

Caring for cedar is not problematic; it needs to be watered only on the driest days, fertilized once a season with nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer for trees and mulched trunk circle in winter with peat or sawdust. By the way, it is very useful to place large flat stones in the cedar circle around the trunk.

Over time, fungal growth appears under them, which has a beneficial effect on the growth of cedar.

Varieties of Siberian cedar

And now I present to you the three most popular varieties of Siberian cedar, most loved by Russian summer residents.

Siberian cedar variety "President"

Cedar variety "President" is a low (up to 3 m) tree grown by a breeder for garden plantings. It bears fruit poorly, but is valued for its good decorative qualities.

Siberian cedar variety "Rekorditka"

The cedar variety "Rekorditka" is famous for its abundant fruiting among dwarf Siberian cedars. The height of the tree is up to 3 m, the cones are small, look unusually decorative, the nuts are tasty and nutritious.

Siberian cedar variety “Narcissus”

And here is another variety of low-growing Siberian cedar: “Narcissus”, hybridized by breeders exclusively in decorative purposes. The height of cedar of the Narcissus variety does not exceed 1 m, the cones are large, barrel-shaped, the seeds are inedible. What progress has come!

Talented selectors were able to achieve the unity of nature and science. As a result, we see low-growing varieties of the mighty cedar, which gives its noble heart to people who grow it on their country plots. Special offer SPRING 2105: Supply of a set of cedar seedlings and other conifers, at a discount, during ALL REGIONS OF RUSSIA more details...

How to choose a place and plant cedar seedlings?

Many buyers of seedlings from the Kedr18 nursery? They ask: How to plant correctly? It's complicated? Please tell me in detail! etc.

I specially wrote and post here DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS FOR PLANTING CEDAR SEEDLINGS (for about 2-10 summer age) In this article I provide recommendations based on our experience of replanting several thousand trees. For planting you will need: a bayonet shovel, fertile soil (approx. 5-10 liters), mulch - dry leaves, grass, sawdust or coniferous forest litter, for sprinkling the soil around the seedling after planting, and of course, the cedar seedlings themselves, from a proven nursery ANY adult or teenager can plant (transplant from a container) a seedling!!!

Cedar seedlings are planted in the same way as ordinary trees, you need to take into account only a few not at all complicated points, they are in the description below, so point by point: 1. Planting cedar trees is a serious matter - YOU shape the future of your garden by TENS AND HUNDREDS!!! YEARS Ahead!

You are planting a beautiful tree - a symbol of strength and health - so take the planting with JOY!!! 2. Choosing a planting site: An adult cedar is a powerful HIGH tree.

Usually cedars are planted along the edge of the plot and with the CALCULATION that when they grow, the shadow falls on the house, bathhouse, utility block, parking lot, etc. At first, the seedling takes up little space, but after a few years you can remove the lower branches and there will be one trunk left below - it will not interfere - like pine trees in urban forest plantations.

A sunny place, shade or partial shade is not important for short seedlings; when the cedar grows, it will occupy its upper tier. (growth retardation can only occur in the complete absence of sun). The distance of the seedling from the buildings and foundation, we recommend from 1.5-2 m, in our practice we have met a 20-year-old cedar at a distance of 1.2 m from the house in the front garden and a cedar growing normally, after 100 years, maybe (or maybe not) will create a threat to the house-foundation, or what remains of them. Some CEDAR trees grow up to 800 years old! The common age of cedars in plantings is 200-400 years.

3. The distance between trees, we recommend choosing from 4-5 meters for small garden plots, and 6-8 meters for an alley or sparse planting. If cedar trees are used for fencing, seedlings can be planted after 3 m, in a few years, if you do not trim the lower branches, the wall of trees will be impassable!

4. To plant, you need to dig a hole with a volume of about 10 liters, add forest soil, peat or humus inside and mix. Seedlings from our nursery "Kedr18", as a rule, are in 5-liter plastic containers.

5. The seedling is transferred into the prepared hole, trying to preserve (not disturb) the earthen ball with the root system as much as possible. To remove a seedling, the container is usually lifted and turned over while holding the soil with the palm of your hand; sometimes the container can simply be cut.

Seedlings from our nursery “Kedr18? have not destroyed: the root ball of the earth and the top fertile layer. 6. The seedling is placed VERTICALLY in the center of the hole and sprinkled with earth, a near-trunk circle (a water-retaining edge made of soil) is formed around the seedling, the diameter is slightly larger than the dug hole, so that when watering the water does not go past the roots of the seedling.

When planting, it is necessary to ensure that the ground level in the trunk circle is 1-3 cm below the surrounding ground level. The orientation of the seedling to the cardinal points for seedlings up to 70 cm is not critical; for seedlings HIGHER than 70 cm in size, a mark is tied on the southern side of the crown and the cedar in the hole is located in accordance with it.

7. IMMEDIATELY water the seedling with a CROWN with a large amount of water from a watering can, then restore the verticality of the trunk, add fertile soil and adjust the water-retaining edge. Thanks to abundant watering, air bubbles are removed from the roots and the soil acquires a uniform structure.

8. After planting and watering, the ground on top must be mulched - sprinkle dry grass, leaves, sawdust or coniferous litter from the forest on TOP. And water again from a watering can with a crown. 9. The first days require abundant watering ALWAYS with the crown!

In the future, we recommend monitoring soil moisture and regularly watering, preferably with the crown, for seedlings coniferous species This important point! As you can see, despite the long description, the planting process does not present any difficulties, and as our experience shows, following these recommendations ensures almost complete survival of the seedlings.

Cedar planting looks very beautiful: cedar has a more lush crown compared to pine - the needles grow from the branches in bunches of five, while an ordinary pine has two, in addition, the needles are softer, longer and more fragrant. CEDAR is an evergreen coniferous, powerful, beautiful and useful tree- a symbol of strength and health.

Useful qualities: decorative, winter hardiness, healing properties, durability and also gives nuts!!! Not many plants can boast of such a set of qualities. Head of the nursery "Kedr18" Ignatiev Alexey Gennadievich Buy cedar seedlings in Izhevsk: tel.: 8-912-765-71-38 Alexey, 8-904-316-64-98 Vadim We organize the supply of cedars to other regions through a transport company, Call - we will agree on the time and delivery conditions.

Real cedar on personal plot you don't see it often. The tree is quite difficult to grow, because it needs special conditions for several years. But those owners who took the time to plant and carefully care for the cedar received an unusual decoration for their garden composition. The article contains experience in growing a tree from a nut or seedling with instructions and examples in the photo on how to get a beautiful adult plant step by step.

Planting cedar with seeds and seedlings. Which method to choose

It is not the cedar itself that is adapted for planting far from its native habitat, but the Siberian cedar pine. It belongs to a different genus of trees, but is popularly called cedar. Real cedar is a more heat-loving tree and has a huge crown. Thick and tall pine is able to fit perfectly into landscape composition plot. It does not take up much space, but gives the garden landscape an effect of peace and sophistication.

Attention! When planting pine pine, pine nuts or ready-made seedlings from a nursery or store are used.

Growing a tree from is a difficult method. It is important to choose good seeds. You will have to find a few cones and carefully remove a couple of dozen seeds from them in order to have some kind of safety margin. Seeds that have started to grow will also need a lot of care. However, growing cedar from seedlings is even more difficult: they do not take root well in the new land.

Planting cedar pine using nuts: preparing seeds

To obtain seeds, it is better to use not ready-made pine nuts, but rather whole cones. Because manufacturers of nuts for food thermally treat the material. This has an extremely negative effect on the viability of the seeds. Best time to start work - from September to December.

Siberian cedar pine

Hull 20-30 seeds and prepare them for planting:

  1. Rinse with warm water to remove the resin layer. It will block the access of water to the seed during further manipulations. Treating the surface with a sponge or toothbrush also helps in this matter.
  2. Sort out the planting material. The seeds must be free of mold and bad odor.
  3. Disinfect them by placing them in a 5% solution of potassium permanganate. Soak for a couple of hours. You can also use the fungicide Maxim.
  4. Perform stratification. Place the seeds for 3 days in a container with cold water(0°C). The water needs to be changed daily. Remove seeds that float to the surface: they are guaranteed not to sprout.
  5. Simulate for planting material wintering. Mix it with forest turf, clean coarse sand and peat. Pour it all into a wooden container with ventilation holes, water and place in a cool place at +4 °C for at least 3-6 months. Many people use a refrigerator for these purposes.
  6. Moisten the soil a couple of times a month and check the seeds. If mold appears on one, remove it from the box.

Some gardeners simply mix seeds with sand. Then it is placed in a cloth bag. Whatever method you choose, it would be ideal to prepare the material for planting by March or April. The shell of at least one of the nuts should crack. If this does not happen for a long time, transfer the seeds to a slightly warmer place.

Attention! Cedar seeds, when stored correctly, remain viable for up to 8 years. However, it has been noticed that it is more effective to plant fresh specimens.

Planting cedar with nuts

The first home of the seed will be a small pot, up to 0.2 liters. Fill it with real forest soil or purchase store-bought substrate for conifers. Deepen the seed by about 2 cm. Sprinkle pine sawdust or pine needles on top.

Cedar sprout

The pot should be in a cool place. At temperatures above +18…+20 °C, the seed may not hatch. Also, direct sunlight is contraindicated for the plant. Moisten the soil from time to time, maintaining light moisture in the top layer.

Advice. Plant 1-2 pcs. ineffective. Use all samples that have survived stratification and wintering. The germination rate of cedar pine seeds is only 10-15%.

At proper care the seed will hatch in about 2-3 months. These will be barely noticeable sprouts. Up to 5 years, the annual growth of seedlings will be only 6-7 cm. In the summer, take the pots outside for hardening. Rooting in open ground takes place well at the age of 5-6 years, when the tree grows to 25-35 cm. Although there is a practice of earlier planting.

Sometimes a cedar seed is immediately planted in a permanent place. The procedures are performed in the fall, immediately before upper layer the soil will freeze. This is important because rodents can eat the nuts. Cover the planting site with a layer of dry foliage, at least 5 cm. Such seeds will sprout only after a year. The germination rate is the same as when sowing in pots.

Advice. In spring, seedlings should be protected from birds, because the sprout appears with a nut on the top. Cover young plants with light-colored material or netting.

How to plant a cedar pine using a seedling

Whatever seedling you have - grown yourself or purchased - carefully prepare the ground for it. Cedar pine, in general, loves rocky soils or loams with good drainage. Achieve comfortable conditions For any type of soil, you can add gravel and sand to it. It is effective to plant 3-year-old or older seedlings in open ground only in early spring. Tree care includes the following manipulations:

Cedar pine is a rather capricious plant

  • find a shaded place for the young tree for the first time;
  • water moderately;
  • make mulch from pine needles or grass;
  • feed the seedling with mixtures containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium;

Advice. To increase the chances of adaptation, you can place large stones around the tree. They become home to fungal organisms, which have a positive effect on the development of cedar.

Gardeners noticed that a seedling with a formed root ball takes root well. A year before transplanting the plant to a permanent place, you need to make an incision in the ground around the trunk, cutting off only the horizontal roots. In this case, the tree should not be older than 6-7 years. Adult plants take root much worse than young ones.

It is easy for young shoots indoors or seedlings on the site to die even with careful and correct care. Therefore, when planting and growing cedar pine on your own, it is important to be patient, persistent and have a sufficient amount of planting material. And don’t throw ashes on your head at the first failures.

A bright representative of evergreen coniferous trees is part of the Pine family. Siberian cedar (lat. Pínus sibírica) also known as “Siberian cedar pine”. The culture is widespread in Eastern and Western Siberia. A distinctive feature of a coniferous tree is a massive, multi-tiered crown with large branches. The whorled structure (a special arrangement of branches in which several leaves emerge from each shoot) makes the plant especially attractive. The slow development of the crop is caused by a short period of vegetative growth - only 45 days a year. At favorable conditions pine lives up to 800 years. An adult representative often reaches about 40 meters in length. There are known cases when the diameter of Siberian cedar was more than 3 meters. You don't have to be afraid to grow a bulky, giant tree at home. Breeders have bred no less useful dwarf subspecies of the crop.

Low-growing varieties of Siberian pine have been bred for growing at home.

There are several reasons for growing a coniferous tree at home:

  1. The special decorative value of evergreen culture.
  2. Nutritious and healthy fruits.
  3. The healing effect of nuts and pine needles.

Location

The tree has a very branched crown. Therefore, you should choose a free, spacious area of ​​the site.

The minimum distance between green spaces must be at least six meters. You should retreat 3 meters from the foundation of buildings. Dwarf representatives can be planted a little closer.

Optimal lighting

Siberian pine prefers brightly lit areas. Young representatives can tolerate semi-shaded areas well. The plant is frost-resistant and not demanding on microclimatic conditions.

Watering rules

Siberian pine pine is a moisture-loving crop. During the summer season, wood absorbs a lot of moisture. Therefore, during the hot months, it is necessary to water the plant regularly as the soil dries out.

In autumn, in preparation for the dormant phase, watering should be reduced. You can notice a slowdown in the process of draining the earthen clod.

During the winter dormant period, a plant planted in a container practically does not need watering. The soil mixture in the container may dry out due to low level air humidity. Trees consume moisture from the ground in very small quantities.

Siberian cedar is a moisture-loving crop. But excessive soil moisture or stagnant water will destroy the pine.

Excessive soil moisture can destroy the plant.

Cedar pine in winter

The absence of a dormant stage leads to slower growth in the next growing season. Therefore, for several months a year it is necessary to provide the coniferous representative with cooler climatic conditions.

Siberian cedar, planted in a container, can be transferred to a glazed loggia, cellar, veranda or winter Garden. Water only as needed. With the onset of spring warmth, it is necessary to gradually move the flowerpot to a sunny place.

How to properly transplant Siberian cedar

Seedlings with a closed root system should be replanted permanently immediately after the morning frosts have subsided - in early spring. You can also plant purchased Siberian cedar in the fall, immediately after the end of the growing season.

The ideal age for replanting pine is about 5 years. The height of the trunk is no more than one meter. The diameter of the stem is about two centimeters. When planting, there is a chance to keep the root system intact.

With large representatives of conifers it is much more difficult. Replanting an adult cedar is usually done in winter. In the cold season, you can dig up a large earthen ball and save most of the rhizome. As a rule, the cedar root system is severely damaged.

The ideal age of pine for replanting is 5 years.

During the recovery period, the plant releases a component that attracts pests. If the crop is severely weakened, bark beetles can penetrate under the bark and lay larvae. It will not be possible to save the pine tree. Therefore, replanting an overgrown cedar is extremely risky.

Before planting you should:

  1. Weed out the weeds and thoroughly cultivate the soil around seat.
  2. Dig a hole of suitable size. It is necessary to focus on the size of the root system with a lump of earth. The depth of the hole should exceed the size of the cedar roots by 40%.
  3. The bottom of the hole must be thoroughly loosened.
  4. Lay out drainage in a thick layer (about 15 cm). Crushed stone, gravel, shells, and bottle caps can be used as materials.
  5. The ideal composition of the soil mixture is greenhouse soil with peat and leaf humus. Organic ingredients can be added. A pine forest bedding is ideal.
  6. For subsequent tying of the seedling, a wooden support should be driven into the hole.

How to trim correctly

For the natural formation of a dense, even crown, the plant should be provided with free growth open area. The coniferous plant is unpretentious. Therefore, there is no need to further intervene in the development process. It is enough to periodically clean the conifer from damaged and dead branches.

If the plant is used as an element garden design, you can give the crown the appropriate shape. It is not recommended to prune plants younger than five years old. The best time of year for pruning is early spring.

It is advisable to use sharp garden pruners. The instrument should be thoroughly disinfected with alcohol. The affected areas must be treated with a healing component (var).

Cedar pine is an excellent representative of the flora for creating dwarf miniatures.

Amazing miniature of Siberian pine.

Using oriental techniques you can create a skillful bonsai. The pliability and elegance of the trunk and shoots contribute to the design of a smaller, exact copy of a coniferous tree.

Features of planting a tree can be found in the video:

Cedar pine in open ground

For growing on outdoors it is enough to provide the minimum conditions:

  • open area;
  • uniform sunlight;
  • loamy and loose soil;
  • lack of groundwater. Often young conifers develop well on the site, but adult representatives die. The main reason is that the root system is damaged by the accumulation of liquid in the top layer of soil.

Siberian cedar is a very sustainable crop. The plant is not afraid of severe frosts.

Siberian pine is a frost-resistant plant.

In winter, there is no need to cover the plant with mulch and protective material. In open soil, cedar does not need regular feeding and pruning.

Planting cedar at home

Flower pot

The coniferous plant has a large and branched root system. Therefore, the choice of container should be taken seriously. For young cedars, it is advisable to choose small containers with drainage holes and side openings for air circulation.

The kit must include a tray to collect excess liquid. As the root system and crown develop, it is necessary to use a larger container.

Ideal soil

Cedar pine prefers loose and fertile soil. It is not recommended to use mixtures containing peat for growing. The multicomponent fossil causes rotting of the root system.

To protect the plant from pests, you should add some oxidizing agents to the soil. You can use a natural solution citric acid and pine needles.

Feeding cedar

During planting, a biogrowth stimulator should be added to the soil. The ideal combination of components is contained in the drug "Kornevin".

The plant does not require regular feeding. It is advisable not to experiment with chemicals. Preparations for indoor crops can harm conifers. Products with natural composition have been developed specifically for growing cedar.

To feed cedar you should use a special vermicompost.

Vermicompost "Kedronik", made from waste pine nuts, is ideal for cedar wood. The fertilizer also includes Siberian soil. The drug can not only be applied to the soil, but also sprayed onto cedar needles. Especially effective action exerts after the appearance of yellowness on the leaves.

Cedar diseases and main pests

Bark beetles

Most often, cedar trees are affected by the common engraver. Mass attacks of conifers begin at the end of May. Spotting pests is quite easy. Beetles gnaw small holes in the bark.

The cedar will produce resin for independent struggle with pests. Inaction will result in females entering the stem. Once the larvae are deposited, it is almost impossible to save the tree.

As preventive measures, you can use systemic insecticides, inject into the trunk with biological protection agents, and promptly clean the crop from affected areas.

Massive attacks of bark beetles can destroy a pine tree.

Pine Hermes

On initial stage it is possible to mechanically collect and destroy all affected areas. If the insect population has covered the entire plant, it is necessary to treat the soil with “Aktara” and spray “Decis” or “Iskra” on the cedar. Spraying should be repeated after a month. You will need to continue the procedure until the pests are completely eliminated.

Pine is also affected by scale insects, moths and aphids. Systemic insecticides should be used for treatment.

Pests rarely appear on a healthy plant. Therefore, you should purchase biological preparations in advance to strengthen the immunity of the coniferous tree.

Pine needle rust

A characteristic disease for warm and humid climates. Yellow marks appear on the tree. After some time, a white coating forms on the blister spots. Fungal cells infect all parts of the tree. At the initial stage of infection, the needles will become yellow tint and will begin to fall.

As a rule, infection occurs from sow thistle and coltsfoot. It is necessary to destroy all plants on the site that contribute to the spread of fungal spores. Affected branches must be removed and destroyed. Cleaning the tree will help prevent further spread.

Tar crayfish or seryanka

The crop should be immediately cleared of areas infested with spores. For prevention, it is necessary to clean the plant from dry branches and stems with cancerous ulcers. Inactivity attracts many pests. A weakened pine tree may die from insect damage.

Allergic manifestations

Pine nuts are a very healthy product. People with individual intolerance may experience an allergic reaction and anaphylactic shock.

It is quite difficult to determine the relationship with the cedar fruit. A reaction to peeled nuts may only appear after two days. The first sign is the appearance of a metallic taste.

It's not just fruits that can cause a reaction. The so-called wood allergy affects the upper respiratory tract. Redness and itching appear on the skin and mucous membranes. After the occurrence characteristic symptoms Direct contact with the crop should be avoided.

Reproduction options

There are several ways to grow pine. To grow coniferous cedar, you need to purchase seeds or seedlings from a garden nursery.

Planting cedars from seeds

Long term growing method. Planting material must be treated with potassium permanganate. A mixture of coarse sand should be used as primer. The nuts should be placed in the holes and sprinkled with a small layer of sawdust. To stimulate growth, you can place the container with the seeds in a cold room.

Periodically you need to moisten the soil.

Germination of Siberian cedar seeds.

After the first shoots appear, you can move the container to a warm room. After strengthening the sprouts, young cedar trees should be planted in separate containers.

You can experiment and sow treated seeds in open soil. But this is very risky. Often the planting material does not germinate.

Growing cedar seedlings

It is preferable to buy seedlings with a closed root system. The ideal age for planting material is three-year-old trees. The average size of a pine tree should be from thirty centimeters to three meters, depending on the subspecies.

Flowering and fruiting of cedar pine

Cedars do not produce inflorescences. Nuts are formed as seeds.

You will be able to try nuts from your own cedar tree only after 60 years.

Adult crops begin to bear fruit only at the age of 60 years. To speed up the process, you can pin the tree. The ripening process of cones occurs in the fall. As they form, most of the fruit falls to the ground.

How to choose Siberian cedar

Planting material should be purchased from nurseries specializing in coniferous trees. Siberian cedar seedlings 15-25 cm high can be purchased for 50 rubles. Grown seedlings in a container with a closed root system sell for an average of 1,500 rubles. Seeds of Siberian cedar "Shepard" are in the catalogs of online stores. The cost of one package is 42 rubles.

Description of the cedar plant, rules for growing in open ground, tips for propagation, the most common diseases and pests, interesting notes, species.

Cedar (Cedrus) is part of a genus that includes a large number of species (oligotypic) and included in the Pine family (Pinaceae). Botanists have identified all 4 varieties in the genus. The natural distribution area falls on the lands of the southern and eastern regions of the Mediterranean, as well as the western regions of the Himalayas. However, today you can find such plants on the southern coast of Crimea, and Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani) feels great in the climate of Odessa. In nature, these majestic plants reproduce well by self-sowing. They prefer to settle in forests, next to fir, spruce, oak and pine trees.

Family name Pine
Growth cycle Perennial
Growth form Tree or shrub
Type of reproduction Using seeds or vegetatively
Time to transplant to the garden At the beginning of spring or after leaf fall
Disembarkation scheme Leave at least 6 m between seedlings, about 3–4 m from buildings
Substrate Loamy, drained, nutritious and fresh
Soil acidity indicators, pH 5–6 (slightly acidic) or pH 6.5–7 (neutral)
Lighting level Always sunny location
Recommended humidity Moderate constant soil moisture, without stagnation of moisture
Special requirements Carefully regulated watering and heat
Altitude indicators Up to 40–50 m
Color of flowers Green
Inflorescences or type of flowers Erect spicate
Flowering time Autumn
Fruit color and shape Barrel-shaped or ovoid-elongated cones
Fruiting time Autumn
Decorative period Year-round
Places of application As a single tree or in alpine plantings
USDA zone 3–8

There are different information about the origin scientific name cedar One of them is the term used to call European cedar - Cedar, thanks to which the name was given to all plants of the genus. But according to another version, icons were painted on wooden boards of Lebanese cedar, in Russian they began to be called “cedrus”, and such boards were called cedar, and, accordingly, the tree itself was cedar.

All cedars are evergreen representatives of the flora. Their height varies in the range of 40–50 m. The cedar crown has spreading outlines and its diameter can be 3 m. But when the cedar becomes an adult, the crown takes the form of an umbrella. Plants are monoecious. The bark covering the trunk is dark gray, young branches are smooth, but on adult branches the bark cracks, becoming like scales. The shoots of cedars are shortened and quite long; needles are formed on them in a spiral pattern. It is the needles of representatives of the pine family that are modified foliage.

Cedar needles have the shape of needles with three or four edges. The length of each is 5-10 mm. The needles are hard and prickly to the touch. The color of the needles can be dark or blue-green, and also reach a silver-gray hue. The cedar needle has stomata on either side. The needles are located on leaf cushions and are formed in bunches, in which the number of needles reaches 30–40 pieces. The life of each needle is 3–6 years.

During flowering, which occurs in autumn, spikelets are formed on the cedars, crowning short shoots. The shape of the spikelets is erect, they are surrounded on all sides by coniferous bunches. The length of female spikelet inflorescences is 5 cm. Cedar cones are erect and grow singly. They have the appearance of barrels or can take on an ovoid-elongated shape. The diameter of the cones varies from 4 to 6 cm. There are many seed scales in them, they are arranged in a spiral. After their formation, cedar cones ripen only in the 2nd–3rd year, then scatter around the tree throughout the autumn and winter months.

Cedar seeds, even when spilled on the ground, do not become prey for rodents, since they have a high resin content. Each seed has a triangular shape, but its surface is covered with a thin peel and large wings fused to the upper side. The wing can weigh almost 10% of the total mass of the seed itself. The length of the seed is 12–18 mm. Nuts are not used for food.

Although many people associate cedars with forests and pine forests, growing something like this large tree You can do it in your own garden plot. However, if you live in northern latitudes, this will be difficult, because you should not confuse ordinary cedar with Siberian cedar (Siberian cedar pine), which grows in Siberia.

How to grow cedar in open ground - planting and care

  1. Landing place.Cedrus is a light-loving and heat-loving plant, so they look for a place with a high level of lighting and protection from cold winds. It would be better if it was a southern location. Cedar does not tolerate sea wind at all. Such trees will suffer in shading, although at a young age they prefer partial shade. As they get older, the lighting level should become high.
  2. Watering.When caring for cedar, this moment is the most difficult. Since in the summer months it is necessary that the soil in which the tree grows never dries out, but the moisture in it does not stagnate. This should be immediately provided for when planting the plant. In this case, watering should be plentiful.
  3. PrimingWhen planting cedar trees, fresh is preferable; it must have good drainage and high nutritional properties. It is best to use loamy or clay substrates for growing. On dry and calcareous soils, on slopes, the plant will suffer from a lack of iron and there is a danger of developing chlorosis. Since cedars are very fond of organic matter in the soil, some gardeners line the tree trunk with substrate brought from the pine forest. If the soil on the site turns out to be very heavy, a small amount of river sand is mixed into it, which will provide the soil mixture with lightness and drainage properties.
  4. Cedar plantingcarried out with the onset of spring, until the buds begin to bloom on the branches. You can also plant in open ground in the autumn, when leaf fall ends for deciduous flora. When planting cedar trees, many gardeners give preference to nine-year-old seedlings. However, if a seedling is purchased from a nursery, it can be 2–3 years old; such a plant tolerates replanting more easily and adapts to new growing conditions. If the tree is taken from the forest, then it is recommended to dig it up directly with a ball of earth so that the root system is not damaged. When moving this lump, it is necessary to wrap it in a damp cloth or cardboard, as it dries out very quickly. Polyethylene is often used as a wrapping material. After the seedling is removed from the ground, planting is carried out in a short time so that the earth ball does not dry out and the needles do not turn yellow and take on a withered appearance. Planting pits are prepared in advance. All excavated soil must be combined with fertilizers, which include humus, rotted manure, wood ash and peat. When calculating the distance, it is necessary to remember that cedar is a large plant and for an adult tree it is recommended to leave about 6 m in the projection zone of its future crown. It is better to retreat from buildings and fences when digging a hole of at least 3 m, since the root system of cedar is so powerful that over time it will begin to destroy the foundation. If there is a lot of space in the garden plot, then it is good to plant 2-3 cedar specimens nearby. Before digging a hole for planting, the soil within a 3-meter radius from the planned location must be dug up. The size of the planting hole should be 1.5–2 times the size of the earthen ball of the cedar seedling. If the plant is in a shipping container, carefully remove it and plant it immediately, being careful not to destroy the earthen ball (planting by transfer). If the cedar seedling has an open root system, then the roots must first be soaked in a “clay mash”, to which, if desired, you can add any root formation stimulator (for example, Kornevin). The consistency of such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. The seedling is installed in the hole, but before this a peg is inserted into it, to which the trunk is tied. Such a device will initially support the plant. You need to tie the cedar to the peg with a soft strip of fabric or twine. Then the soil is added to the top of the planting site and pressed a little around the trunk of the tree. After planting, young cedar trees are watered abundantly, and the tree trunk circle is mulched with a layer of peat or compost.
  5. The use of cedar in landscape design.If there are cedar seedlings of blue or silver shapes, then it is customary to decorate garden and park areas with them, forest plantings. As a source of phytoncides, it can be planted as a centerpiece in the lawn or in group plantings. This is due to the fact that unusually colored needles will stand out favorably against the background of other representatives of the flora. It is beneficial to form alleys using such plantings.

Most often in nature, cedar trees reproduce by self-seeding, but you can get a young plant by grafting.

Seed propagation in this case is the most accessible method that does not require much effort. Stratification is not required for cedar seed material, unlike most representatives of the pine family (for example, the same Siberian cedar, fir or pine). However, to simplify germination, it is recommended to soak the seeds for 2-3 days in warm water, which is changed several times a day.

Many gardeners, after the seeds have been soaked, place them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for a couple of hours, and then mix them with moistened river sand and place them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. There, pre-sowing seed preparation lasts no more than a month. That is, in essence, they carry out stratification - holding at a temperature of 4–6 degrees for a long period. But in this case, it happens that the seeds begin to grow while still in a closed container on the refrigerator shelf and they will have to be urgently planted in the ground or containers with soil mixture.

For planting, you can take seedling boxes or individual pots. The container is filled with a peat-sand mixture and the swollen seeds are distributed on the surface of the substrate and lightly sprinkled with the same soil. If they have sprouted, then you need to place them with special care in the depressions made with a pencil in the soil mixture. It will be necessary to organize greenhouse conditions by wrapping containers with crops with plastic film. When leaving you should ensure high level lighting, increased humidity, timely soil moisture and daily ventilation. Germination temperature should be room temperature.

When the cedar seedlings sprout, the shelter is not removed yet. If you remove plastic film immediately and simply leave the seedlings on the windowsill, then most likely they will not survive. Greenhouse cultivation continues for 2–3 years. In this case, the following procedures must be carried out:

  • lighting must be mandatory and illumination must be high;
  • normal year-round temperature conditions when growing cedar seedlings, the temperature range is 10–25 degrees;
  • It is imperative to organize a difference in day and night temperatures;
  • The crown is being molded.

Planting seedlings in open ground is only possible if you live in a warm climate, otherwise this future giant will not survive the drop in temperature.

Also, some gardeners practice grafting cedar cuttings onto Scots pine, but this process requires experience and skill, and a novice lover of garden flora may not be able to cope with it.

The most common diseases and pests when growing cedar

Botanical scientists have identified more than 130 varieties of harmful insects that pose a problem when growing cedar. Considered the most dangerouscone moth (Dioryctria abietella)or, as it is also called -spruce moth. The larvae of this pest damage the cones of the plant, since this dirty-red butterfly lays its eggs under the scales of only formed cones; the seeds will not be able to ripen. To combat the pest, it is recommended to spray cedar at the very beginning of flowering with Lepitotsid from the Aurora company. This product helps to destroy lepidopteran caterpillars. After a week, it is necessary to repeat the treatment of cedar trees.

A disease that causes damage to old specimens of cedars (more than 40–50 years old) isvariegated red trunk rot, which is also found in the literature under the namepine sponge. The disease is provoked by the mulberry mushroom, which looks like a cantilever-shaped body with a brown tint. Its surface is covered with thick sprouted moss. Most often, such formations are visible on the lower and especially valuable part of the cedar trunk. To fight, it is necessary to remove the body of the fungus with the arrival of summer days. It is recommended to lubricate the places on the cedar trunk where the mushrooms were attached with any antiseptic or creosote oil.

The roots of all varieties of cedar trees can be affected by the disease.root sponge,which leads to trunk rot and subsequent windfalls. There are no effective methods to combat this fungus; the affected plant must be removed immediately to avoid infection of other plantings.

To prevent cedar plantations from being subject to these diseases, it is recommended not to disturb the agricultural cultivation practices and not to thicken both the crowns and the group arrangement. Purchase only trees with high immunity for planting.

Curious notes about cedar

Often, ordinary people confuse cedar and cedar pine, since these representatives of the flora have a similar description of the bark, needles and cones. Cedar or cedar, which is the name given to European cedar (Pinus cembra - European pine), in ancient times the Romans called similar majestic trees growing in their region. But when the Roman troops took the island of Crete by storm, when they saw similar green “giants” that reminded them of pine trees, they began to call them cedar trees, that is, similar to cedar. This is how they later began to call all varieties of Cedrus. Today there are many versions, according to which the plant began to bear its current name.

Cedar, like many members of its family, is a useful plant. Cedar wood is durable and therefore considered highly valuable. It is used for making furniture, building ships and in many other industries. There are even references to the use of wood from these plants in the Bible. This material is a symbol of prosperity and well-being.

Since cedar trees differ not only in their decorative look, but also with a high growth rate, they are often used for landscaping park areas, both as group plantings and in the form of a tapeworm.

It is important to note! Real cedar, unlike cedar pine, whose nuts are considered healthy and expensive, does not have seeds used for food.

Cedar trees are commonly used in the perfume industry, as their aroma helps relieve anxiety, helps restore peace of mind and relieve irritation.

Over the entire existence of human civilization, about 16 species of cedar trees have been lost and only four have survived to this day.

Types of cedar

Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani)found naturally in the lands of Asia Minor. It does not exceed 40 m in height. The trunk is large, the branches have branches. When the plant is young, its wide-spreading crown has the shape of a cone, but over time it takes on an umbrella-like shape. The trunk is covered with dark gray bark in the form of scales. Shoots may be bare or slightly pubescent. The color of the needles is dark green, the length of the needles measures 4 cm. Its shape is tetrahedral, the needles feel hard to the touch, and are collected in bunches, in which there are 40 needles. The needles do not fly around for two years.

The resulting cones are light brown, located singly, and can grow up to 10 cm in length with an average diameter of about 5 cm. They have a barrel shape. Characterized by a slow growth rate.


Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica).Natural growth occurs in the lands of North Africa (Algeria and Morocco), where it is found on the slopes of the Atlas. The wood of this plant has high resin content, strong aroma and strength. The height of this evergreen tree is 40–50 m. The diameter of the trunk does not exceed 1.5–2 m. The outline of the crown is loose and pyramidal. Tough needles, colored bluish-green, grow on the branches. The length of the needles measures 2.5 cm. The ripening cones take on an ovoid or cylindrical shape. The surface of the cones is glossy, dense, painted in a light brown color. The length of the cone is 10 cm, while the length of the seed is in the range of 10–12 mm, and the length of the wing reaches 15 mm. The growth rate of this type of cedar, while it is young, is quite fast; the growing season in spring begins late. The plant is not frost-resistant and will not be able to survive frosts greater than -20 degrees. There is a large amount of it decorative forms. There is an opinion among scientists that this species originates from the Lebanese cedar.


Himalayan cedar (Cedrus deodara)also found under the nameDeodar. It is found naturally in Afghan lands and the Himalayas. The tree trunk can stretch up to 50 meters in height. The crown of the plant is broadly cone-shaped. As the tree matures, its outline from above becomes flat, and branches are clearly visible on the branches. Young shoots have pubescence. The needles have a light green color with a clear bluish tint. It is longer than other varieties of cedar and reaches 5 cm. Bunches of needles are collected, numbering about 30–40 needles. The needles are soft and thin to the touch. The formed cones are ovoid in shape. Until they are fully ripe, their color is bluish, changing to reddish-brown. The ripening period takes one and a half years. After 2–3 years, the cones begin to fall off. By the way, their size is 10 cm. The seeds are whitish, reach 16–17 cm in length, the color of the wing is grayish-brown. They are distinguished by their resinous content and are practically not used for food. In the southern territories of Crimea it is a particularly valuable breed.


Cyprus cedar (Cedrus libani var. brevifolia)also found under the name short-coniferous. Many scientists believe that this species is a subspecies of Cyprus Lebanese. It is clear that the territory of natural origin falls on the lands of the island of Crete. There the plant prefers mountainous areas. Its height is no more than 12 m with a trunk diameter of about two meters. The crown has an umbrella-shaped outline. The needles are colored bluish-green, their size is very small, only 5–8 mm in length. The shape of the cones is oval-cylindrical, and the length does not exceed 6–7 cm.

Video about growing cedar:

You rarely see real cedar on a personal plot. The tree is quite difficult to grow, because it needs special conditions for several years. But those owners who took the time to plant and carefully care for the cedar received an unusual decoration for their garden composition. The article contains experience in growing a tree from a nut or seedling with instructions and examples in the photo on how to get a beautiful adult plant step by step.

Planting cedar with seeds and seedlings. Which method to choose

It is not the cedar itself that is adapted for planting far from its native habitat, but the Siberian cedar pine. It belongs to a different genus of trees, but is popularly called cedar. Real cedar is a more heat-loving tree and has a huge crown. A thick and tall pine tree can fit perfectly into the landscape composition of the site. It does not take up much space, but gives the garden landscape an effect of peace and sophistication.

Attention! When planting pine pine, pine nuts or ready-made seedlings from a nursery or store are used.

Growing a tree from pine nuts is a difficult method. It is important to choose good seeds. You will have to find a few cones and carefully remove a couple of dozen seeds from them in order to have some kind of safety margin. Seeds that have started to grow will also need a lot of care. However, growing cedar from seedlings is even more difficult: they do not take root well in the new land.

Planting cedar pine using nuts: preparing seeds

To obtain seeds, it is better to use not ready-made pine nuts, but rather whole cones. Because manufacturers of nuts for food thermally treat the material. This has an extremely negative effect on the viability of the seeds. The best time to start work is from September to December.

Siberian cedar pine

Hull 20-30 seeds and prepare them for planting:

  1. Rinse with warm water to remove the resin layer. It will block the access of water to the seed during further manipulations. Treating the surface with a sponge or toothbrush also helps in this matter.
  2. Sort out the planting material. The seeds must be free of mold and bad odor.
  3. Disinfect them by placing them in a 5% solution of potassium permanganate. Soak for a couple of hours. You can also use the fungicide Maxim.
  4. Perform stratification. Place the seeds in a container with cold water (0 °C) for 3 days. The water needs to be changed daily. Remove seeds that float to the surface: they are guaranteed not to sprout.
  5. Simulate wintering for planting material. Mix it with forest turf, clean coarse sand and peat. Pour it all into a wooden container with ventilation holes, water it and place it in a cool place at +4 °C for at least 3-6 months. Many people use a refrigerator for these purposes.
  6. Moisten the soil a couple of times a month and check the seeds. If mold appears on one, remove it from the box.

Some gardeners simply mix seeds with sand. Then it is placed in a cloth bag. Whatever method you choose, it would be ideal to prepare the material for planting by March or April. The shell of at least one of the nuts should crack. If this does not happen for a long time, transfer the seeds to a slightly warmer place.

Attention! Cedar seeds, when stored correctly, remain viable for up to 8 years. However, it has been noticed that it is more effective to plant fresh specimens.

Planting cedar with nuts

The first home of the seed will be a small pot, up to 0.2 liters. Fill it with real forest soil or purchase store-bought substrate for conifers. Deepen the seed by about 2 cm. Sprinkle pine sawdust or pine needles on top.

Cedar sprout

The pot should be in a cool place. At temperatures above +18…+20 °C, the seed may not hatch. Also, direct sunlight is contraindicated for the plant. Moisten the soil from time to time, maintaining light moisture in the top layer.

Advice. Plant 1-2 pcs. ineffective. Use all samples that have survived stratification and wintering. The germination rate of cedar pine seeds is only 10-15%.

With proper care, the seed will hatch in about 2-3 months. These will be barely noticeable sprouts. Up to 5 years, the annual growth of seedlings will be only 6-7 cm. In the summer, take the pots outside for hardening. Rooting in open ground takes place well at the age of 5-6 years, when the tree grows to 25-35 cm. Although there is a practice of earlier planting.

Sometimes a cedar seed is immediately planted in a permanent place. The procedures are performed in the fall, just before the top layer of soil freezes. This is important because rodents can eat the nuts. Cover the planting site with a layer of dry foliage, at least 5 cm. Such seeds will sprout only after a year. The germination rate is the same as when sowing in pots.

Advice. In spring, seedlings should be protected from birds, because the sprout appears with a nut on the top. Cover young plants with light-colored material or netting.

How to plant a cedar pine using a seedling

Whatever seedling you have - grown yourself or purchased - carefully prepare the ground for it. Cedar pine, in general, loves rocky soils or loams with good drainage. You can achieve comfortable conditions in any type of soil by mixing gravel and sand. It is effective to plant 3-year-old or older seedlings in open ground only in early spring. Tree care includes the following manipulations:

Cedar pine is a rather capricious plant

  • find a shaded place for the young tree for the first time;
  • water moderately;
  • make mulch from pine needles or grass;
  • feed the seedling with mixtures containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium;

Advice. To increase the chances of adaptation, you can place large stones around the tree. They become home to fungal organisms, which have a positive effect on the development of cedar.

Gardeners noticed that a seedling with a formed root ball takes root well. A year before transplanting the plant to a permanent place, you need to make an incision in the ground around the trunk, cutting off only the horizontal roots. In this case, the tree should not be older than 6-7 years. Adult plants take root much worse than young ones.

It is easy for young shoots indoors or seedlings on the site to die even with careful and correct care. Therefore, when planting and growing cedar pine on your own, it is important to be patient, persistent and have a sufficient amount of planting material. And don’t throw ashes on your head at the first failures.