The power supply of any premises must ensure the ability to quickly connect electrical installations (including household appliances). For this purpose, sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Rules (ELR) require that each socket have a housing that provides protection against electric shock. Sockets designed for wall-mounted installation (including outdoor) have their own housing that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket boxes is provided.
Receptacle boxes serve multiple functions
- Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and securely hold the socket itself.
- Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials and prevent electrical potential from reaching the load-bearing structures from the contacts.
- In addition, the outlet itself is protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not penetrate inside the case.
- Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket box.
- There is also an aesthetic component. When installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.
Requirements for socket boxes
A unified set of rules describing the installation of boxes for hidden installation electrical outlets, does not exist. Electrical installation rules require compliance general requirements fire and electrical safety. In this sense, installing a box under an outlet is no different from installing distribution box. There are building codes and regulations (SNiP) that determine the geometry of placement of sockets in a room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.
We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket boxes will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.
An optional but useful requirement is the ability to connect several sockets to each other using standard clamps. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.
We proceed to the direct installation of socket boxes
Before starting work, it is advisable to have a complete set Supplies. Power cable, required amount socket boxes (with a small reserve for scrap), construction mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool you plan to use to cut the holes.
Marking
Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will be trenching the walls for it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket boxes begins with careful marking.
It is impossible to guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you will want to rearrange your apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:
- For universal use- at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the laid finishing coating).
- For large household appliances ( washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
- If the socket blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - no less than 10 cm from the surface.
- A special case is the installation of sockets for a TV hung on the wall. This is an individual project.
- But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (applies to a group installation, in a row). This value for installing standard sockets is 71 mm.
The horizontal position must also be taken into account. From corners, ceiling, floor, door frames- a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. Of course, you cannot place sockets above heating devices (with the exception of the “warm floor” system) and above kitchen stoves. Electrical installation rules and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.
Making holes
There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between them. It all depends on the tools and attachments you have. There is no fundamental difference between installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.
- Crown for stone (concrete, brick). The classic and fastest option for drilling a wall for a round box.
The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Considering the external dimensions of the socket boxes (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it’s easier to fill an extra gap with a solution than to squeeze a box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of a miscalculation in the markings. Then, adhering strictly to the central markings, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket box by 10–15 mm. You won’t be able to make ready-made holes; most likely the installation location will look like this: 
It's okay, the core can be easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt. 
Advice! What to do if reinforcement gets in the way of the crown? (Applies to concrete walls only).
Identifying the metal under the crown is not difficult. You definitely can’t go wrong: the deepening stops and a characteristic knocking and vibration appears.
Most good advice- change the installation location of the socket. The reinforcement has a pitch of 15–30 mm; if the placement is not so important, move the hole by 3–5 cm. Before doing this, try to determine which reinforcement you hit: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.
If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out a “glass” of concrete to see the metal. Use a bolt to break the area around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. A wire with a diameter of 5–6 mm can be cut with a chisel.
Thicker reinforcement will have to be drilled out.
The best option is to cut out this area with a grinder. We will get acquainted with this method further.
- Drilling holes using a drill. Not the easiest way, but if you don’t have a crown, you can make one or two seats. The fundamental difference is that the contour is not drilled at the center marking point. It is necessary to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
And then, as in the first option, use a bolt or chisel. Tip: Don't be afraid to damage the integrity of the wall around the holes. Of course, you want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: the holes are like in the picture, a perfectly even row. You will simply waste extra time; all uneven areas will be plastered over and covered with the finishing surface.
By the way, if you are installing socket boxes in brick wall, drilling will not be a difficult task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a hammer drill: with a conventional drill with Pobedit drill.
If you are making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. There is less damage (concrete breaks out in pieces), and it is easier to select a hole.
- Installation of socket boxes using a grinder. This method is not used due to the lack of a drill or crown for concrete. If you have an angle grinder, then you also have a hammer drill. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the others.
The only condition under which this method is indispensable is working with reinforced concrete wall special strength. You will simply dull an expensive bit, and the discs on an angle grinder cost pennies.
Together with grooves for power cable, we simply cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the socket boxes.
It definitely looks rough. On more or less treated walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if finishing is still a long way off, this is the fastest and effective method. Also suitable for brick walls.
- The most unesthetic method is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be resorted to only if other methods are impossible. However, the technology is there and we cannot ignore it.
The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with connected grooves. Clean the niches with a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime it.
Installation of boxes
In accordance with the markings, we try on the assembled blocks. Installation of socket boxes is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests on an incorrectly drilled niche, it needs to be expanded. Marking is our everything! Don’t be lazy at this stage, even if you don’t want to pick up a chisel again and make a mess.
Experienced installers attach the socket boxes to some kind of guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.
If you simply sit the socket boxes in a liquid solution, they may move before they dry completely. You'll have to redo everything again.
The wires must be left with a margin of 10–15 cm. When installing sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.
The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plastering
If the surface is covered with plasterboard, there is no such problem. What to do when installing socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall?
In fact, from a technical point of view there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the planting height: the main thing is that the socket box does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3–5 mm, this is not a problem. The mounting pad of the socket will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.
The problem is rather psychological - it’s a shame to drill into a plastered surface.
When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed socket boxes protrudes above the plane of the wall, how will you apply the plaster evenly?
Therefore, the best option is to drill out niches, then plaster the walls (there will be holes for sockets with uneven edges), and then carefully clean the edges of the holes. Before installing the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markings.
Simple advice for beginning craftsmen: To prevent alabaster or plaster from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution takes 2–3 times longer to crystallize.
True, you will have to wait several hours for final drying. But the mixture will be many times stronger.
Video on the topic
A socket box is a metal, or more often a plastic, cup into which a socket or switch is installed during electrical installation work. Installing this product is not difficult, but for each wall material (brick, concrete, plaster or wood) the installation will have its own nuances. Next, we will tell you how to install a socket box in a concrete, brick, wood and plasterboard wall, providing visual photos examples, video instructions and short description to each technology.
What to pay attention to before installation
Before you decide to install the product in the wall, you need to choose the right type of socket box. Today, the following types of so-called glasses for sockets and switches are available for sale:
By selecting suitable option products, you can proceed to the preparatory work, which we will talk about now!
Preparing for the cut-in
So, in order to install a socket box with your own hands, you must first prepare the following set of materials and tools:
- Hammer or electric drill;
- A crown for plaster, brick or concrete (depending on which wall will be tapped) or a Pobedit drill bit;
- Building level;
- Marker;
- Spatula and gypsum putty (if drywall or wood, then not needed);
- Chisel and hammer.
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to installing the socket box into the wall. Now we will briefly look at how to insert and secure a glass under the socket in each of existing options walls
Installation technologies
In concrete and brick
If you need to install a socket box in a concrete or brick wall, you need to proceed as follows:
- Make markings on the surface using building level and a marker in accordance with the wiring diagram in the house. can be chosen at your discretion, according to SNiP and GOST standards this moment not specified. All you need to do is put a cross in suitable place(center of the future hole), lean the socket box in the center and circle it with a marker.
- Using a hammer drill and a suitable crown, drill the groove 4-5 mm deeper than the height of the glass you are going to install. If you don’t have a special cutter at hand, simply drill a group of holes in a circle using a drill with a Pobedit drill bit and knock out the core with a chisel and hammer. Another way is to carefully make a square hole with a grinder and a diamond blade.
- When you manage to make a round groove, clean it from the inside, then try on the socket box so that it fits well into the seat and there are no installation difficulties in the future. Immediately cut a hole in it for the wire entry and insert the wires inside.
- Dilute the solution to smear the socket box into a concrete or brick wall. A good solution can be made from gypsum putty, alabaster and water.
- Wet the hole and use a spatula to apply the solution inside, as shown in the photo. After this, carefully fix the glass flush with the wall, making sure that the screws on the sides are positioned strictly parallel to the floor (otherwise the socket will not be able to be installed level).
- Seal the edges and remove excess solution to leave the glass clean and ready for further use. electrical installation work, after the putty has set.
Like this in a simple way You can independently install a socket box in a wall made of brick, concrete, foam block or even aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the video instructions provided below to clearly see the essence of the installation.
Video tutorial on attaching a block of glasses in a monolith
In drywall
Attach the socket box to plasterboard partition much easier. Here you no longer need to dilute the solution and knock out the core of the groove with a chisel. As we said earlier, there is a special glass with presser feet that can easily fix the socket box in the drywall. 
In order to install the glass yourself plaster wall, you need to do the following:
- Apply markings on the surface by analogy with the previous technology. We looked at the markings of a plasterboard wall in detail when we talked about...
- Cut a hole in the bottom for the wires and insert the product inside the groove.
- Tighten the screws on the sides until the box is tightly secured inside.
How to install a socket box in drywall
That's all you need to do to install a socket box in a plasterboard wall with your own hands. As you can see, everything is very simple and even a novice electrician can install the product. Please note that if plaster partition will be additionally tiled, you need to act a little differently. The video below shows the technology for attaching a glass under ceramic tiles.
How to install on tiles
The second way to make a block of sockets in tiles
An integral part of any major renovation is the installation of sockets. According to all the rules at this stage a box for an outlet is required, which is one of the main elements of installation and is a guarantee of safety.
It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wiring and connecting the socket to the mains. If necessary, this simple electrical element allows you to repair or replace the outlet.
Socket boxes and their purpose
Not many people know what a socket box is and what it is needed for. This question may arise only if repairs with a change in wiring are necessary. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. A small repair involving changing the installation boxes for sockets can be done independently.
The socket box is usually represented by an original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Necessary for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Switches are also installed in it. From above, the entire structure is covered with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, which is why not everyone knows about them.
And not everyone understands why you can’t just place the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, it is necessary that the socket complex is assembled with high quality and works perfectly.
Other purposes of socket boxes include:
- Guarantee of strong fixation of the mechanisms of sockets, switches and similar devices. The fastening function is usually performed by screws of the socket box or spacer legs of the installed devices.
- Acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the socket (switch) and the wall of the room.
- Performing the distribution function. boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
- Implementation additional protection from accidental fire.
In order for the mounting box for sockets and switches to correspond to the listed functions, you should make a responsible choice. In the future, this will serve as a guarantee for the uninterrupted operation of devices and the electrical network.
Choosing the right boxes for sockets
Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several types. Such a classification is necessary for their proper installation and subsequent implementation of the purposes listed above.
Exists whole line classification parameters, among which several main ones should be highlighted.
By type of installed surface
Socket boxes are necessary for installation in various rooms made of different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.
By this parameter their design may differ in some way. For example, a box for mounting in plasterboard has additional tabs for secure fastening.
According to the material of manufacture
Socket boxes can be plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a wide range of models and shapes:
- Round - have become widespread. It is easy to make a hole in the wall for them and select the necessary groups of devices for installation.
- Oval - characterized by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wires necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
- Square - they have a large amount of space for wires and allow the installation of dimmer elements, “ smart home"and a number of other devices. Capable of holding up to 4 mechanisms.
Metal socket boxes are not widely used because they are conductors electric current. But this is the option of choice in houses made of wood.
By number of sockets
Single boxes designed for mounting single sockets are in demand. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 sockets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket boxes is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.
It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - internal diameter and depth (40 - 60 mm). Additionally there is an installation diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best option The choice is the socket box, which has a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If it is necessary to carry out wiring without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is suitable.
List of necessary tools
When carrying out large-scale repair work, the necessary list of tools is usually at hand. But also minor repairs requires preliminary selection of tools.
For installation of the liver socket box necessary tools should be presented as follows:
- Level with pencil and compass. Necessary for marking the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if installation is necessary).
- Drill. Required for making holes for boxes. The drill will need crowns for drilling - if they are missing, a concrete drill will do. If you don’t have a drill, a hammer drill or grinder will do.
- Hammer with chisel. They will be needed at the stage of forming holes to knock out excess pieces of the wall.
- Spray. It will be needed during drilling to water the crown, it will prevent cracking tiles and prevent dust from flying away.
- Spatula (trowel). Necessary at the stage of attaching boxes.
Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum to securely fix the boxes in the wall. Dowels are often needed for this purpose. Do not forget about socket outlets, the presence of which must be ensured before performing the listed actions.
Installation of socket boxes in rooms made of various materials
The process of installing the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets and subsequent work directly depends on this.
Depending on the wall material, the installation procedure has some characteristic differences.
Concrete
Concrete is one of the most common materials for indoor walls, so the installation of socket boxes in this case is worked out to the smallest detail:
- Carrying out marking. A serious stage, especially when installing several socket boxes, where the same level of location is especially important.
- Making holes. The diameter of the holes for sockets must exceed the diameter of the installed socket by 5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a crown or a pobedite tip. It is necessary to drill holes around the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out inner part(in the absence of a hammer drill and a drill, you can use a grinder), making rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
- Trying on the box. A proper installation must be flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass through the pre-prepared holes.
- Installation process. You need to place a layer of putty in the hole so that the glass fits. After installation, you need to leave everything for a few minutes for the solution to set, after which you need to remove the unnecessary part from the wall.
If the fixation is insufficient, the socket box should be additionally secured with dowels.
Brick
Mounting boxes for sockets in brickwork similar to installation in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.
The boxes should be installed flush on the outside of the wall. It is necessary to take into account that an additional layer of plaster and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom) will be laid on the wall. It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket box should be pulled out from the wall or tile.
You can use the following scheme:
- make a recess (diamond, pobedite);
- hide the wire in the hole and cover it with a lid (for example, made of cardboard);
- putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay tiles);
- proceed to the first stage of installation of the socket box (after the tile adhesive and plaster have dried), carefully drilling holes at the required coordinates.
Subsequent stages of installation should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket boxes in concrete.
Gas silicate
When installing socket boxes in gas silicate blocks it's worth preparing for a large number dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.
Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in finishing walls made of gas silicate, the step-by-step installation of socket boxes is similar to that when installing them in brick walls. The only caveat is that the holes should be made using a drill with an inventory drill. An impact drill should not be used.
Depending on the material, the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to comply with all safety requirements.
Mounting boxes in PVC and MDF panels and more
The number of different materials used in modern construction, amazes.
It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to competently carry out the process of installing socket boxes.
Drywall
When installing boxes in plasterboard walls, a hammer drill and mortar are not required. The work will be completed several times faster compared to installing socket boxes in walls made of concrete or brick.
You need to purchase special boxes that have additional legs to ensure better attachment to the drywall sheet. After marking, you can make holes using a drill with a crown or a regular drill. Then you need to bring the wire out and thread it into the socket box, and then insert it into the hole. The bolts from the adjustment tabs should be tightened on it.
If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the inside of the drywall. All other steps (attaching the socket mechanism) are standard.
Tree
Performance hidden wiring in a house made mainly of wooden components is not a cheap pleasure. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with wood.
Standard plastic socket boxes are not suitable as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, capable of withstanding an electrical arc in the event of a short circuit.
Wires during installation should be laid in iron pipes, and carefully seal the joints with the socket box. We should not forget about grounding, for which you will need to additionally weld a fastening bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. To provide additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be lined with asbestos.
PVC and MDF panels
Modern window sills or loggias are often made of polyvinyl chloride and act as places for installing sockets.
To carry out this process quickly, you need to purchase boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fastening, you should buy self-tapping screws. At the assembly stage, the power cable should be laid in advance.
The holes for the socket boxes in the panels are made in advance using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They must be strictly sized so that the socket fits quite tightly. Then you need to pull the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. After this, you can attach the panels to the main location. It is necessary to try to ensure that the socket is close to the wall.
When installing a whole complex of devices, you should always maintain a distance between sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance to the millimeter, you can make your own original template. To do this, you need to take any rigid material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and mark it in the center of the rib where the socket boxes will be attached.
To do this, you need to find the center using a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. You need to drill holes along the finished line with a metal drill. Then you need to use a tape measure to measure the distance between the holes of the box and drill a second point according to it. Make holes for the remaining boxes in the same way. In order not to perform so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for socket boxes.
Conclusion
The glass under the socket greatly simplified the process of installing various electrical sockets. Allows you to mount sockets into the wall without any problems, making them almost invisible. This allows them to fit harmoniously into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.
If necessary, socket boxes allow you to repair electrical sockets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the immediate process of installing electrical outlets.
Installing sockets in a concrete wall is quite a complicated matter, like everything related to electricity, because it requires special care. If you decide to do this work, be sure to strictly follow technological process. Installation of new sockets is an important issue, since after each renovation or simply moving furniture, you change your home. For ease of use of certain devices, they are moved to more “accessible” places. If you want to do everything yourself, you need to know the theoretical minimum, which I will talk about in this article.
Getting started preparatory stage, you must already have purchased an electrical appliance, and also purchased necessary materials, tools and the work area was brought into proper shape.
Typically, the location of sockets is not regulated in height, so electrical appliances can be installed wherever you want, observing only one condition: heating, gas and water supply systems must be 1 meter away from the point you choose for installation. The exception is the toilet and bathroom; Under no circumstances should electrical outlets be installed in them.
Required tools and materials
To work you will definitely need:
- Electrical socket (better take a product with a ceramic base);
- An appropriately sized installation box;
- Cable and conductor products;
- Alabaster.
For equipment, select:
- perforator;
- chisel;
- putty knife;
- indicator screwdriver.
Types of sockets
There are several main types of sockets. Depending on the type of installation, there are: built-in for open wiring and built-in for internal wiring. Built-in ones are used when wires run through the wall. This usually happens in apartments, as this is a guarantee of safety. Overheads are more suitable for wooden houses, where the wiring goes over the wall.
Sockets with protective curtains are good because the openings are protected. The curtains move back only when the fork is inserted. They can open upward, with a certain pressure, in a circular motion, etc.
Sockets with ejectors are suitable for using multiple appliances when you need to frequently pull out the plug and replace it with another one.
A socket with a timer is more suitable for children and the elderly. You can program it to turn on a particular device. This, for example, can be done with a teapot.
Sockets with indicator. Using the indicator, you can determine whether there is current in the network.
Installation instructions
Marking
First of all, we start marking - using a tape measure and a pencil, we mark the center of the future outlet on the wall. When installing the block, apply all centers.
Holes in a concrete wall
For further installation of socket boxes, make a hole in the concrete wall. To make the job easier, use a hammer drill and prepare a special crown. You use it to make holes with a depth of 50 to 60mm. Then you insert the concrete bit into the hammer drill and use it to mark the future dimensions of the hole.
Make 12 holes along the resulting length. Drill them to the installation depth of the selected socket boxes (usually no more than 50 mm). Using a spatula attachment, remove any remaining concrete.
Electrical wiring installation
After you have made all the holes and punched the grooves to them, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. You must route the power wires to the sockets. The best option: each has its own power cable.
Installation of socket boxes
At this stage, carefully follow the things I described, because durability, reliability, convenience and, of course, your safety depend on it.
Considering the number of socket boxes you want to install, assemble the appropriate block. Let's take two things as an example.
- Connect the two sockets together.
- Make the plugs needed to enter the cable.
- Remove unnecessary ones connecting elements that interfere with installation.
- Try on the socket box, placing it in the already formed hole. Once you are sure that it is not sticking out, protruding or tilted, you can proceed to the next step.
- Clean the hole from dust.
- Prime with a special primer that guarantees durability.
- Dilute the putty or plaster mixture on a gypsum base. Then apply the mixture inside the holes. In such cases, the use of alabaster is also allowed.
Important! You need to work quickly because the plaster hardens in a very short period of time.
- “Press” the socket boxes with the wires in them into the solution.
Wall decoration
Next, you need to prime and then cover significant chips, dips and depressions with plaster. The socket boxes themselves need to be coated especially carefully. After the wall has dried, putty and treat sandpaper areas so that everything looks smooth and beautiful.
After this, you can safely move on to finishing (painting, wallpapering, etc.).
An auxiliary but integral element of the electrical system are socket boxes. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities to accommodate hidden wiring. It allows you to hide wires and contacts not only of sockets, but also of switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, heated floor). Correct installation– a guarantee of reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic – a dielectric material, then additional insulation between it and the wall.
Preparatory activities imply not only taking a number of pre-installation actions, but also purchasing certain materials and tools in advance. To work you will need:
- alabaster/plaster;
- primer;
- putty knife;
- hammer/drill;
- drill/drill 8 mm thick;
- diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket box is standard);
- special spatula or chisel + hammer;
- building level;
- marker/pencil;
- ruler/hard tape measure;
- indicator screwdriver;
- sandpaper;
- cable/wire products;
- the electrical device itself (if it is a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.
Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work necessary by marking the area where the device will be located. For this purpose, the middle of the future outlet, switch or other device is drawn on the concrete wall with a pencil or marker. If you plan to install a block, then the center of the outermost fixture is initially marked on the surface. A level line is subsequently drawn through it, equal to the length of the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the rest of the electrical installation products.
Drilling holes for socket boxes
It is best to use a hammer drill for this. Using it, you will need to drill a hole in the intended center by placing the drill. Afterwards, the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked outline appears, the drill is removed from the equipment by unscrewing the bolt. Next, the crown is put on the hammer again, on which a mark must be made indicating the depth to which it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle is changed again. This time, a spatula is put on the hammer and the excess concrete is knocked out. If it is not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and hammer are used.
In situations where there is neither a hammer drill nor a drill available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating sections that have different directions in the marking areas. Afterwards, pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.
Guide to installing socket boxes in the wall
Having drilled a hole and punched grooves into it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed with direct electrical installation. For this purpose, you should place a socket box in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly secured and not tilted at all. Then you need to insert the wires supplying the future device into the hole located in the background.
The next goal is to securely fasten the box to the wall:
- clean the base from dust;
- treat the hole with a primer, which will ensure durability;
- dilute the plaster/putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of construction/medical plaster, it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy, homogeneous consistency is formed);
- Apply the composition inside the hole with a spatula;
- put the socket box in the socket and press it into the solution (it should come out concrete surface through the slots).
It is important to carry out installation extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in literally 2-3 minutes. The product must be aligned so that the screws are horizontal to the floor and the box is completely recessed into the base. Check for correctness with a level applied diagonally to the device. It cannot be moved in the future: the plaster/alabaster must harden completely. Excess that comes out is removed.
If dips, chips, or potholes appear in the concrete for the socket box after completion of the work, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled using sandpaper. Final stage – finishing optional (wallpapering, painting, etc.).
Possible mistakes
Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with unpleasant consequences. The most common problem is the product falling out or poor fixation in the wall. If this happens, you can cope with the problem in 2 ways:
- screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket box;
- applying glue gun, securely secure the box in the slot.
Also common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket/switch. A dangerous potential arises on the device body, which can lead to a short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket box should not in any way interfere with the future design, especially from the side of the spacer legs.
1. Switches and socket boxes can be installed anywhere. The main thing is to comply with one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be at least 1 m from the selected installation point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet room, electrical devices cannot be installed at all due to danger.
2. When fixing into a concrete or brick wall, it is advisable to use gypsum/alabaster only for small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.
3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when it comes time to repair contacts.
4. If we are talking about installing 1-2 socket boxes, then purchase diamond crown would be a pointless waste of money. It would be more appropriate to replace it with attachments equipped with pobedit teeth, or even use a grinder with a disc.
| Articles |
