VIDEO ON THE TOPIC:
Working for several years as the chief technologist of Khimtek PA LLC, I repeatedly had to communicate with consumers of paint and varnish products, advise them in case of problems with the use of and, to be honest, deal with claims. Communicating with consumers, I noticed that problems that arise with consumers are not always caused by the quality of the products used. LMB. If LMB does not meet the requirements of regulatory documentation, then everything is clear - it must be immediately returned to the manufacturer. But very often problems that arise for consumers when using LMB , caused by ignorance of their properties and features, rules for preparing the surface for painting, preparing the material for painting, violation of painting conditions, etc. Moreover, this is not some kind of lofty matter and secret knowledge from the field of chemistry and technology LMB , but the most basic things. And it looks even more strange when this lack of knowledge, and sometimes even obvious neglect of it, comes from experienced production workers, specialists with paint and varnish education, and experienced painters. On the other hand, the set of indicators described in GOST or TU in the quality passport does not cover the entire range of properties, characteristics and features LMB.
The most typical, frequently encountered problem that consumers encounter when using paints and varnishes can be expressed in one short phrase: “The material does not dry.” The answer question immediately arises: “How does it not dry out?” The concept of “does not dry” evokes completely different associations for different people - for example, a painted surface sticks after drying time. - this is the same “does not dry”. But why doesn't it dry? If the primer or enamel does not dry within the time specified in the regulatory documentation, subject to the painting conditions - temperature regime, humidity, then the problem is really quality LMB . But, for example, if this material applied in winter time in an unheated room at a temperature of +5 o C, then the problem is not in the quality of the material, but in non-compliance with the temperature regime. LMB , the drying time of which at a temperature of +20 o C is 24 hours, will not be able to dry at a lower temperature in the same time. Also important point is the humidity at which the material dries. It must be taken into account that when high humidity(more than 85%) the material dries longer. In this case, in order to dry the paintwork faster, it is necessary to ensure a flow of warm, dry air into the room where painting or drying of the painted product takes place - for example, use heat guns or heat heaters. Or be patient.
Another version of this problem is possible, when the consumer assures thatLMB“does not dry” - you come to investigate and see this picture: you touch the painted surface and do not feel the sticking effect, surface layer coating is completely dry. But the enamel is applied in a very thick layer and when pressed, the coating breaks down, it is soft. What happened? As a rule, when applying the material in a thick layer, upper layer dries in the allotted time, forming a continuous film that prevents solvent vapors from escaping from the thickness of the coating into the air working area. As a result, under the top layer of the cured coating, undried , and the coating itself, when pressed, wrinkles and seems soft and “not dry.” What should I do to avoid this problem? Either apply the material in a thinner layer, or, if it is necessary to obtain a thick-layer coating, apply paintwork materials in several layers with mandatory inter-layer drying. By the way, a similar problem may arise in the case of painting an uneven, non-uniform surface - in places of welding seams, joints of planes, in the presence of grooves, recesses and dents - i.e. where the thickness of the paint layer also naturally changes upward.
The next fairly common problem is cracking of the coating after drying. Example - one shipyard painted deck superstructures on a ship. The enamel dried, and some time later, the coating began to crack. When identifying the causes of this phenomenon, the following was revealed: painting was carried out on metal surfaces, in hot weather at temperatures above +30 o C, with undiluted enamel, using brushes and rollers. The thickness of the dried enamel layer is easily accessible for painting (and for sun rays) was 200 – 400 µm, and in hard-to-reach places – no more than 100 µm. Where direct sunlight fell on the thick-layer coating, cracking occurred, and in shady places that were difficult to reach for painting, the coating of the same enamel, but of lesser thickness, remained intact. The reason is obvious - when high temperature the top layer of enamel dried very quickly and “locked” the solvent included in the paintwork material into the thickness of the coating. Since the painted surface was metal, it heated up, the residual solvent boiled in the thickness of the coating, and under its pressure the top layer cracked (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1 – Cracking of the thick-layer coating.
Solventevaporated, the coating dried, but its integrity was compromised. In places where there was no contact with sunlight, the drying regime was more gentle (thinner coating layer, lower temperature), and the integrity of the coating was not compromised. The conclusion is to again apply the material in a thinner layer (with dilution to working viscosity with a solvent), and if it is necessary to obtain a thick-layer coating, apply the paintwork in several layers with mandatory inter-layer drying.
Another one typical problem– the consumer purchases, For example, , carries out an incoming inspection in the laboratory, paints a mock-up of the product there - everything is in order, then puts the enamel into production, paints the previously primed metal surface and gets a problem - after drying, the enamel peels off the surface like a stocking. A step-by-step study of the painting process reveals the following: in production, before applying enamel, the primed surface is wiped with a rag soaked in (so to speak, control degreasing and dust removal), and then immediately paint(this stage was absent when painting the product model). But enamels based on polyvinyl chloride resin ( , , etc.) are not compatible with aliphatic hydrocarbons – . The enamel film dried without contacting the primed substrate, so the coating began to lag behind the surface in the form of a film. The solution is simple - it is better to use it to degrease the surface. , included in the applied paint and varnish material. In this case it would be suitable , , butyl acetate or mixed solvents – , or
A typical problem is paint running off from a vertical or inclined surface when painting. In most cases, the cause is an incorrectly selected working viscosity of the material or excessive thickness of the paint layer, when the paintwork begins to flow off the surface under its own weight. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to correctly select the working viscosity of the paintwork material depending on the application method, the distance from the spray nozzle to the object being painted (for pneumatic and airless painting), and the pressure under which the jet of paint and varnish material is applied. With the right combination of these parameters, the problem of runoff becomes completely solvable.
If we are already talking about methods of applying paints and varnishes, then it is worth recalling another problem that arises when applying the material in such a way as spraying, especially pneumatic spraying - this is “chalking”. The essence of the problem is that after applying the paint using pneumatic spray and drying, if you run it over the painted surface (with your hand, a rag), a “dust” trace of the paint remains on your hand, and a hand mark remains on the painted surface. During control staining from the arbitration sample (and different ways– by pouring, brushing, pneumatic spraying, with or without dilution to working viscosity, in layers of different thicknesses) there is no “chalking” effect. The reason for this phenomenon is still the same - the distance from the spray gun to the surface to be painted is incorrectly selected (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2 – The defect is “over-sprayed” when painting from a long distance.
The painter painted from a great distance (in order to cover a large area of the surface to be painted), the working viscosity during pneumatic spraying is in the range of 18 - 22 s; the paint, flying out of the nozzle in the form of drops, in the process of covering this distance loses a significant amount of solvent (which simply evaporates) and reaches the surface no longer as drops of liquid paintwork, but as almost dried clots that stick to the surface without spreading or forming a continuous homogeneous coverings. Paint workers call such a defect “over-pollination.” It is these particles of paint that have dried and are loosely attached to the surface that give the appearance of “chalking.”
In general, problems with paintwork materials can arise where you would not expect them, for example, when preparing the material for painting. Example – a client purchased with a high dry residue and, as often happens in such cases, exhibiting the property of thixotropy (the ability to reduce viscosity and exhibit fluidity when external shear forces are applied - for example, during stirring). Conducts entrance control and states that liquid, does not meet the requirements of the technical specifications for the “conditional viscosity” indicator. We check the arbitration sample - everything is in order, the viscosity is normal. We ask the consumer whether he mixed the primer before testing - the answer is “yes, with a mechanical hand mixer.” There is nothing to do, we have to go. We arrive at the enterprise, they present us with a drum with a primer, and show us that very “mechanical hand mixer”. It turns out that this is an ordinary low-speed screwdriver with an attachment 30 - 35 cm long. And the height of the drum with the product is at least half a meter, i.e. This mixer is immersed, at best, to the middle of the drum and certainly does not mix the product in the container throughout the entire volume. Since the primer has a high solids, partial separation naturally occurred, and the pigment phase with part of the binder sank lower, and in the near-surface layer the viscosity (and solids) decreased. At the same time, there is no sediment at the bottom of the container. Fortunately, I brought with me a normal mechanical stirrer with a nozzle of the required length, and after proper mixing, the check showed full compliance with the value of the conditional viscosity stated in the quality certificate. The problem is the lack of ability to properly mix paints and varnishes in containers. First, you need to thoroughly mix the bottom layer with rotation, especially in the case of the formation of a pigment sediment at the bottom of the container, and then, without stopping the rotation, mix the contents of the container throughout its entire volume with a back and forth motion (up and down) (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 – Proper mixing of paints and varnishes in containers.
Of course, it is advisable to carry out mixing with a high-speed manual mechanical stirrer, for example, a drill with a whisk attachment.
I will also add that after mixing in a container, especially after long-term storage, it definitely needs to be filtered.
Along with this read:
Pre-scrape and sand wooden surfaces, then remove any remaining abrasive and dust. Metal surfaces clean from corrosion products, degrease and prime. Pre-fill and prime concrete, brick and cement surfaces. Remove old peeling coating from previously painted surfaces. Clean surfaces previously painted with chalk or lime paints until the old coating is completely removed. Wash the surface from grease and other contaminants with soapy water, washing powder or soda solution, then dry.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
Before use, mix the enamel thoroughly and, if necessary, dilute with white spirit or turpentine. It is necessary to apply PF-115 enamel in two layers on a dry prepared surface with a brush, roller, spray or dipping method. Apply the second layer after the first has completely dried. Clean the tool with solvent.
PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES:
ENAMEL IS A FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARD! KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE! Work should be carried out on outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Smoking and using open fire is prohibited. Vapors form explosive mixtures with air. When working, it is recommended to use special clothing and personal protective equipment for the respiratory, visual and skin. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, and respiratory organs. May cause drowsiness, dizziness and nausea. In case of contact with eyes, rinse with water and consult a doctor immediately. Keep out of the reach of children.
STORAGE:
When packaged, store indoors at a temperature environment from - 40 to + 40 °C away from fire sources, heating and heating devices. After storage at low temperatures, keep the enamel at room temperature, then mix thoroughly.
DISPOSAL:
Empty cans and dried paint residues are taken to household waste collection points.
The reason for writing this article was a trouble that happened to me.
On my way back from work, I stopped at the market to buy paint to paint the doors. Actually this is the scoundrel:
Confident that the can was well sealed (remembering the Soviet packaging, which could not be opened without breaking a couple of screwdrivers), I delivered it in my hands. Standing at the bus stop and grabbing the can more comfortably, I squeezed it a little from the sides with my fingers. After which the lid miraculously bounced off, and its contents squished onto my jeans in a delicious stream. My entire left calf and the back of my sandals were covered in paint. The jeans were soaked through. And everything would be fine if both the jeans and sandals weren’t new gold. There is no point in running back to the market for solvent. And you can’t wipe it off, and it dries in five minutes.
In short, I went home, on the way already thinking about how to wipe out my pockets so that I could at least make shorts out of jeans. The journey home took about 40 minutes, plus the temperature was about +30. Personally, I had no hope. Unfortunately, there are no photos of the tragedy; you understand that it was necessary to act quickly.
Now I’m moving from tears to action. Upon arrival, they carefully removed my pants and, using rods, began to clean me. For cleaning you need:
- latex gloves;
- solvent (White spirit);
- laundry soap;
- water;
- patience.
Wearing gloves, pour solvent onto the paint stain, then moisten it with water under the tap. The best remedy from everything in the world, be it a wound, a runny nose, fuel oil or paint, in the end, that is, with good old laundry soap, we begin to soap the places of contamination. After which we simply wash it. Rinse. We arm ourselves with patience, and in a circle: white spirit - water - soap - wash - rinse - white spirit - water - soap - wash - rinse... and so on until complete victory.
You need to work carefully so as not to stain clean areas. It's better to have a helper just in case. After obtaining an acceptable result, look in the sun to see if there are any tinted fibers left anywhere. If not, we send our jeans to washing machine. We wash it. Let's check it in the sun again. Let's dry it.
Here is the actual result.
WITH front side I found no traces. On the reverse side, as proof of the veracity of my story, there is a slight touch-up.
But I didn’t intend to wear it inside out :).
Let me remind you that it was not a drop that dripped, but was soaked through and through. Then I had to scrub the paint off my feet. Don't be alarmed if water and dye from your jeans run off during washing. You can always wipe it symmetrically. But personally, I didn’t have to do this at all.
As a result: the area that was previously covered in paint is circled.
Expenses: half a bottle of solvent, rubber gloves.
From income: new jeans saved, money saved on new ones, time saved on going to the market, a feeling of satisfaction from a complete miracle.
The recipe was developed by a very wise and experienced person - my beloved mother. For which I thank her so much! I hope that this article will help thinking and creative people get out of a difficult situation clean.
Surely many people have encountered the problem of removing paint stains from various objects. This could be a mark on clothing resulting from contact with a freshly painted surface or a blot on the body of a car. It is also very important to know how to remove traces of paint from leather. So the question of how to remove paint does not lose its relevance. There cannot be a definite answer to this due to the different structure of the materials that need to be cleaned.
There is no universal solvent, so each case requires a separate approach. You need to choose a substance that will completely remove the stain without damaging the item itself. So if you are not one hundred percent sure of the final result, it is better to first test the chosen option in some inconspicuous place. If the result is positive, you can safely begin the main work.
Removing paint from fabrics
The most frequently asked question is how to get rid of paint on clothes. There are several approaches, which depend on the structure of the fabric and the severity of the contamination. If the mark remains on thick fabric type of jeans, then the dried layer can be carefully picked out with a knife. This will be quite easy to do, but you shouldn’t be too zealous so as not to cut the thing itself. White spirit or nail polish remover will help remove any remaining traces.
You need to take a cotton swab and apply a little solvent to it, then rub the dirty surface with smooth movements until all traces of paint are completely removed. After this, the clothes must be hung out in the fresh air to air out. bad smell. Then it would be better to treat the surface with a special stain remover and wash it in a machine. Almost certainly, after carrying out these procedures, not a trace of the former contamination will remain. But there is also back side medals.
If the jeans are of low quality, then along with the paint in which they are smeared, the paint that was used to dye the fabric itself may also dissolve. And then you will have to buy special paint for jeans and reapply the product. On some forums on the Internet you can read that such contamination can be removed with the help of a stain remover if you rub the problem area with it for a long time. But this doesn't always work. In most cases, marks will still remain, and you can simply rub a hole in the fabric.
As for things made of more delicate fabric, solvents are not suitable here. A more delicate approach is needed. Light contamination can be removed using laundry soap. To do this you need to soak the item in warm water and rub the stained area until results are obtained. In general, one of the best, oddly enough, is sunflower oil. It is particularly used to remove paint from the surface of the skin, since it does not pose a danger to humans, unlike chemical solvents.
The principle of working with oil is the same as with white spirit: it is applied to a cotton swab, which is then rubbed into the area of contamination. After this, the clothes must be ventilated and washed in a machine with the addition of a stain remover. Particularly stubborn stubborn stains may require several cleaning cycles. It is worth noting that there are cases when it is impossible to save a damaged item without causing damage to it. In such situations, you need to decide whether it is worth spending time and effort on work that will not be successful.
It is very difficult to recognize such a case at first glance, but if the first few minutes of rescue did not bring any results at all, then the undertaking is most likely doomed to failure. It is important to remember that it is much easier to get rid of fresh stains than to wash off the dye once it has already been integrated into the structure of the fabric. Therefore, you need not to hesitate, but to solve the problem as quickly as possible.
How to get rid of old paint on metal and other surfaces?
As for the surface of the car, here the task becomes more complicated. It is necessary to remove one paint from another, and so that the original layer is not damaged. In such cases, use a special paint remover that is dissolved in water. Before starting work, it is better to test the resulting mixture on the inside of the body, where an unsuccessfully chosen ratio of water and solvent will not be noticeable if something happens. To do this, treat a small area of paint with the solution and wait 5-7 minutes. If the top layer of paint has not dissolved, you can safely begin working with the dirt.
The rule also applies here: the faster the cleaning is done, the easier it will be to wipe off the layer of excess paint. To work you need to take soft cloth, which will not scratch the surface of the body. When scrubbing, do not use too much force so as not to deform the car. If the dirt cannot be washed off manually, abrasive polishing of the body can help. It will surely remove all marks and stains. But after carrying out such a procedure, it is better to cover the treated surface with a layer of protective varnish, since it will suffer during polishing.
Varnish not only gives the car shine, but also protects the body from the negative effects of environmental factors, so its absence can become a serious gap in protection. Removing paint from a car is a very delicate procedure, so if there is Money it is better to entrust it to professionals. They have a sufficient amount of experience and the whole set necessary tools so that the whole process is successful. Craftsmen can also carry out post-processing of the cleaned surface upon the client’s request.
Sometimes the question arises of how to clean old paint before painting again. This is the simplest case of all possible. If old layer has come off and peels off well, it can be removed with a spatula or other thin instruments. Otherwise, you just need to treat the entire surface with a solvent, and then remove the softened layer with the same spatula. Complete removal old paint allows you not to worry about preserving the bottom layer, which greatly simplifies the procedure.
If you decide to paint your car with PF 115 paint, be patient and take several tools. Remember that you should not apply the substance to the surface without thoroughly preparing it. In addition, when you open the can, you may find that the paint is too thick - then you will have to thin it. The choice of solvent must be taken very carefully - the wrong thinner can not only not bring any results, but also ruin the paint.
What is PF 115
PF 115 is an alkyd enamel intended for painting various surfaces. One of its advantages is that it can be bought in a regular store. building materials for ridiculous money. Many people use it for painting wooden products and plastered walls - so why not tidy up your car by using pF 115? The composition of enamel PF 115 includes the following components:
- Alkyd varnish;
- Solvents;
- Coloring pigments;
- Pentaphthalic varnish is a thick solution of resin with vegetable oils, rosin and glycerin.
After the varnish is ready, it is mixed in equal proportions with a solvent to obtain the finished alkyd enamel PF 115.
How does alkyd enamel PF 115 differ from acrylic paints?
Novice car enthusiasts believe that there is nothing wrong with tidying up the parts of the “iron horse” using acrylic paint. Of course, such auto enamels are very popular in Lately, and all thanks to the richness of colors and high uniformity. In addition, acrylic paint does not need to be varnished, and if it thickens, it is enough to dilute it cold water. The disadvantages of this enamel are its low covering ability (paint must be applied in several layers) and high cost. It is much better to use alkyd auto enamel PF 115 - it perfectly paints the surface in one layer and has a low price.
Universal enamel In addition, PF 115 is characterized by high elasticity and for a long time services. In addition, such enamel reliably protects the surface of the car from corrosion, and even a novice driver knows that rust is the main enemy of the “iron horse”. By the way, if the first signs of corrosion appear on your car, take immediate action. If you do nothing, you risk wasting a huge amount of money on car repairs.
In addition, such alkyd enamel is resistant to temperature changes. Due to our climate, this feature of the substance is extremely relevant. Having painted your car with PF 115, you can be sure that it will not peel off at the first frost.
Due to the fact that PF 115 enamel withstands wet cleaning, you can safely wash your car with conventional chemicals. Of course, it is worth using gentle products - they not only clean the surface of the car efficiently, but also do not leave scratches. After visiting the car wash, the enamel will not peel off, and the vehicle will look simply great.
How to paint a car with PF 115 enamel
Painting a car is an extremely important task, so take it very seriously.
- Preparing for work. First of all, clean the surface of the machine from dust. If you start applying enamel to a dirty car, it will look extremely unpresentable.
- Sanding. After getting rid of road dust and rust, treat your car sandpaper. For thorough sanding, fine-grained sandpaper is ideal - coarser paper can seriously damage the surface of the car. If the coating does not become very smooth, use drying oil.
Stages of car painting - Primer. After making sure that there are no bumps or scratches left on the surface of the car, feel free to proceed with the primer. Many car enthusiasts choose primer in spray bottles rather than in jars - this way the substance is better applied and fixed more reliably. In most cases, one layer of soil is sufficient. Remember that the primer needs to dry thoroughly, so wait ten to fifteen minutes before applying the alkyd enamel.
- Dilution of paint. Remember that under no circumstances should you use water that has been diluted acrylic enamel. It is much more reasonable to use white spirit - this is the solvent that the manufacturers of PF 115 themselves use. Please note that this thinner should be stored in a tightly closed container away from sunlight. Remember that this substance is gasoline, so do not open or pour it near a source of heat or fire.
How to work with white spirit solvent
Before diluting PF 115 with this substance, wear gloves. In addition, you should be in a well-ventilated area. Some novice car enthusiasts believe that they can paint their car on the street, but then they wonder why the enamel does not apply evenly. The thing is that the natural level of moisture and atmospheric influences are not conducive to painting a car. It is much better to choose a special box for these purposes. Remember that the solvent has a negative effect on the human body.
- If the concentration of white spirit vapor is higher than normal, you will get a headache and irritation in your eyes.
- Do not allow paint thinner to enter your respiratory tract as it may cause pulmonary edema or bronchopneumonia.
- If white spirit gets into the stomach, it will corrode it. In addition, after the diluent is washed out of the stomach, its vapor will remain in the nasal cavity for four to five days.
If you do everything correctly, then in twenty-four hours the PF 115 enamel will be completely dry. Then your car will have a rich color and glossy shine.
