Do-it-yourself chainsaw chain sharpening - expert recommendations. Saw chains How to sharpen a rip saw chain

Saw chains for the purchased chain saw model must be selected according to the following main parameters:

The length of a suitable tire, traditionally measured in inches and duplicated in centimeters;

The thickness of the guide teeth is 1.1, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.6 mm;

Depth of cut - 0.025'' (0.635 mm.), 0.030'' (0.762 mm) and 0.070'' (1.778 mm.).

The number of teeth - usually from 40 to 72 teeth;

Distance between teeth - 1/4'', 0.325'', 3/8'', 0.404'' and 3/4'';

Profile (shape of cutting teeth) - chisel ("seven" has sharp corners between the edges) and chipper (rounded "sickle");

To the manufacturer - Saw chains manufactured by Stihl and Oregon are considered the best;

Purpose: a) for cross cutting, b) for ripping, c) universal.

Bar length- usually measured in inches and duplicated in centimeters. The longer the tires, the more powerful the saw motor must be, therefore, in the characteristics chain saws there is usually a recommended maximum tire length.

Guide teeth thickness- 1.1, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.6 mm;

Depth of cut- the value of the excess of the upper edge of the tooth over the cut limiter, it regulates the thickness of the chips.

Most often there are samples with gaps of 0.025 '' (0.635 mm) and 0.030 '' (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070 '' (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.

Number of teeth- depends on the length of the bar and the distance between the teeth.

Distance between teeth (Chain pitch) is the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. All saw chains are divided into five groups with a pitch of 1/4'' (6.35 mm.), 0.325'' (8.25 mm.), 3/8'' (9.3 mm.) , 0.404'' ( 10.26 mm.) and 3/4'' (19.05 mm.).

Profile(shape of the cutting teeth) chisel and chipper primarily affect the performance and sawing speed:

The first option is called a chisel (from the English chisel - a cutter, a chisel), the second is a chipper (from the English to chip - to chop into chips).

Chisel teeth are characterized by high productivity and sawing speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller area of ​​contact with the wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance.

This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, it quickly dulls when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires a clear exposure to all angles and parameters.

Crescent profile - chipper- less effective, since it has a slightly larger area of ​​​​contact with wood, but it is also much easier to care for it - a rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.

Manufacturer- Saw chains manufactured by Stihl and Oregon are of high quality, so it is advisable to use them.

purpose- more common saw chains for cross cutting and less common saw chains for longitudinal sawing. The main difference is in the sharpening angles. Saw chains for transverse sawing have a sharpening angle of 25 - 35 degrees, and saw chains for longitudinal sawing - 5 - 15 degrees.

A legitimate question arises: is it possible to use chains with a sharpening angle of 20 degrees? Having acquired grinding machine, I'll try to sharpen the blunt chain and test it.

Detailed information about the parameters of saw chains— http://www.camodelkin.ru/?info=48:

TECHNICAL PARAMETERS OF SAW CHAINS

When choosing a chain for a chainsaw, pay attention to its characteristics such as purpose, pitch, thickness of the drive link, profile height and depth of cut.

Purpose. It is known that sawing wood along the fibers is more laborious than across, and to achieve best result it is desirable to use circuits appropriate to the task.

The main difference between longitudinal and transverse type chains is the attack angles of the cutting links. For chains of transverse sawing, they are 25–35 degrees, for longitudinal sawing angles are sharper - from 5 to 15 degrees.

The use of chains inconsistent with their purposes threatens either with reduced productivity (if cross-cutting is carried out longitudinal chain), or increased "aggressiveness", strong vibration and additional load on the engine.

However, many users prefer not to waste time changing the chain and rip cuts are made with the same chain as lateral cuts, especially if the “quality” of the resulting cut does not require compliance with the “highest” level.

Therefore, chains for rip sawing are in demand in smaller quantities, and they are produced in a volume commensurate with demand. It is not surprising that it is much more difficult to buy such a chain than a transverse one. And the issue of their acquisition becomes really relevant if it is planned to use special machines like mini-sawmills.

Chain pitch- the distance between three successive rivets, divided by two. This is a defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with a step of 1/4'', 0.325'', 3/8'', 0.404'' and 3/4''.

The 1/4'' (6.35 mm) pitch is inherent in miniature chains mounted on low-power single-handed saws. True, in Russia they are practically not used.

0.325'' (8.25mm) and 3/8'' (9.3mm) pitch chains are the most common options. More than 80% of saws produced worldwide are equipped with them.

0.404” (10.26mm) and 3/4” (19.05mm) pitches feature larger link chains with higher performance. For several decades, they completed saws Russian production, but now they are installed only on powerful felling saws and harvester equipment.

The step is traditionally measured in inches, and is written as follows: three digits are ordinary, and two are decimal fractions. This is necessary to avoid confusion. In particular, the result of converting 3/8'' to a decimal is 0.375'' - the difference from the previous standard (0.325'') is just one digit.

The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance. But, on the other hand, the wider the cut, and a more powerful saw is required to overcome the cutting resistance. Small pitch chains have other advantages - more teeth per unit length, smooth movement in the kerf and therefore reduced vibration. Yes, and they cut cleaner.

Drive link thickness(shank) - the second most important parameter. During operation, the chain slides in the groove of the bar, and this sliding should be smooth, without hooks and at the same time without unnecessary “chatter”.

In a word, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, increasing the reliability of the chain fit and eliminating the possibility of its "jumping off".

The international community of manufacturers provides five standard sizes, measured in inches or millimeters (as you prefer): 1.1 mm (0.043''), 1.3 mm (0.050''), 1.5 mm (0.058''), 1.6 mm (0.063'' ) and 2.0 mm (0.080'').

1.1 mm - such thin drive links are typical for the smallest chains and saws of the corresponding size.

1.3 mm is perhaps the most popular size for household and semi-professional chains.

1.5 mm - ranks second in demand. It is put on more powerful and productive saws.

1.6 mm and 2.0 mm - such thick shanks are found only on chains for high-end saws.

Profile height. saw chains are available in high or low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar.

The former are used for professional purposes to obtain maximum performance.

The second ones are installed on amateur-class chainsaws, since due to the increased support area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cut chips, they are safer.

Depth of cut- the size of the gap between the upper face of the tooth and the cut limiter, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Most often there are samples with gaps of 0.025 '' (0.635 mm) and 0.030 '' (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070 '' (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.

The depth of cut largely determines the performance of the chain, its sawing speed. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. But in the pursuit of efficiency, one should not forget about vibration: chains with a small depth of cut in the cut move softer, “twitch” less.

Therefore, manufacturers, in an effort to balance vibration and performance, very often install cutters with a minimum depth of cut on chains with a large pitch, and vice versa.

Engine capacity. This parameter characterizes the saw and, it would seem, has nothing to do with the chain itself. However, in catalogs and brief annotations to chains, the volumes of engines that they are designed to work with are often given. And these recommendations should be followed.

A chain installed on an engine that is too powerful for it will experience heavy loads and fail prematurely, without having worked out its motor resource. Option mi loads on the motor and others important knots the saw itself.

CHAIN ​​COMPONENTS

Any saw chain is made up of three types of links: cutting, leading (shanks) and connecting. The strength of the connection is provided by rivets.

cutting link- perhaps the most complex part of the saw chain, which actually consists of two parts: a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with an L-shaped contour cutting angle.

The upper cutting edge of the link is always wider than the chain itself and the bar, due to which the cut is quite free, and the cutting resistance is minimal. The tooth works on the principle of a planer: the further the knife (upper cutting edge) is extended above the plane of the planer (cutting limiter), the thicker the chips.

The performance characteristics of the cutting link are determined by numerous factors, namely: the angle of sharpening the upper edge and its working, cutting angle, side edge angle (attack angle) and cutting stop height. When sharpening, the values ​​​​of all these parameters must be clearly maintained, since even a small change can lead to negative consequences.

The cutting teeth are right-handed and left-handed, and they are strengthened alternately on the chain. But in general, incisors are divided into types depending on their profile.

With a careful study of the "figures" formed by the upper and side faces, two "boundary" options can be distinguished: the "seven" with acute angle between the edges and a rounded "sickle". The first option is called a chisel (from the English chisel - a cutter, a chisel), the second is a chipper (from the English to chip - to chop into chips).

Chisel teeth are characterized by high productivity and sawing speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller area of ​​contact with the wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance. This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, it quickly becomes dull when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires a clear exposure to all angles and parameters.

A crescent-shaped profile - a chipper - is less effective, since it has a slightly larger contact area with wood, but it is also much easier to care for it - a rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.

All other profile options are various modifications of the two described above.

The top and side faces of the cutting element are usually covered with a thin film of some kind of hard metal. Most often it is chromium, but sometimes a nickel-phosphorus alloy is used.

The electroplated coating significantly improves the anti-friction properties of parts, increases wear resistance, hardness and, in fact, performs all the main work of cutting wood fibers. The steel "core" serves as a substrate or base for the coating.

Leading links(shanks) provide chain movement by transmitting rotation from the engine through the drive sprocket, as well as a stable position of the chain on the bar. In this case, the chain moves along a special groove provided in the design of the guide bar.

The “side” responsibility of the drive link is to distribute the lubricant from the drive sprocket (where it is supplied by the oil pump) throughout the bar and chain. It should be noted that the number of shanks plays a major role in determining the chain length for a given bar length, making it easier right choice and fit to size.

Connecting links, corresponding to their name, combine the cutting and driving parts into a single unit, called a saw chain.

Electric chain saw Champion 324N-18

Tire length - 45 cm.
Chain pitch - 3/8 inch
The groove width is 1.3 mm.
Number of links - 62 pcs.

Cordless chain saw Champion CSB360 has a saw chain with the following parameters:

Tire length - 30.5 cm.
Chain Pitch - 3/8"
The groove width is 1.3 mm.
Number of links - 47 pcs. (actually 45 links)

The Leroy Merlin store (Mytishchi) has:
1. Saw chain 45 links, pitch 3/8 inch, groove 1.3 mm — 531 ₽ / pc.
2. Oregon 91VXL045E Low Profile saw chain, groove 3/8″, 45 links — 632 ₽ / pc.
3. Saw chain 62 links Caliber, step 3/8, groove 1.3 mm — 458 ₽ / pc.

I invite everyone to speak in

First manual chainsaws appeared in the 1920s. They were equipped with chains with straight and flat teeth - such a chain system was not very efficient and was very laborious to maintain. In 1947, Joseph Cox proposed a new type of chain. Its shape was L-shaped, due to which it was possible to repeatedly increase the performance of chainsaws, and ensured ease of sharpening. As a result, the Cox chain quickly forced out all its competitors from the market. Currently, most chainsaws are equipped with just such chain systems - they have a characteristic sickle-shaped cutting profile and allow you to work effectively with any type of wood.

Saw chain design

The concept proposed by Joseph Cox turned out to be so successful that it did not undergo practically any constructive changes. By and large, the improvements have only affected the lubrication system of the tool, as well as the fight against recoil and vibration.

Any saw chain consists of three types of links:

1. cutting

This is the most complex part of the chain set. Its design includes a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with a contour cutting angle.

1. Leading

Such links are also called tails. Through the drive sprocket, they transmit rotation from the saw engine to the chain, ensuring its stable position on the bar.

1. Connecting

Are intended for connection of the cutting and leading elements.

The main ones in the chain system are. They are left- and right-handed, and their cutting edges protrude beyond the plane of the tire, which provides a free cut with minimal cutting resistance. Chain teeth (cutters) work on the principle of a planer - the further the upper cutting edge is extended, the larger the cut will be.

Saw chain cutters are divided into two main types:

1. Chisel (English chisel - chisel, cutter)

Possess high performance and provide good sawing speed. The configuration of such cutters provides a smaller area of ​​contact with the wood when cutting, thereby reducing the resistance of the latter. The disadvantages of chisel-type chain teeth are high sensitivity to abrasive media, as well as the complexity and laboriousness of the sharpening process.

1. Chipper (eng. Chipper - chop into chips)

The sickle-shaped profile of chipper cutters is less effective due to the increased contact area when cutting. On the other hand, chippers are very easy to maintain, since the rounded corner of the cutter does not react so painfully to errors during sharpening.

Chains with chipper links are preferably used when cutting contaminated wood.

Main settings

Saw chains are usually distinguished by:

• cutting direction (longitudinal and transverse);
• dimensions (length and size of the elements of the chain set);
• design features;
• the order of the cutting links.

Cutting wood along the fibers causes more resistance than across. In view of the demand for both types of sawing, two types of saw chains are produced - longitudinal and transverse. They differ in the angle of attack of the incisors. As a result, the productivity of the saw increases with the longitudinal cut, and the “aggressiveness” of the tool is smoothed out with the transverse cut. Well, along with the latter, it reduces the level of vibrations and the load on the engine decreases.

With low quality requirements, rip cuts can be made with a chainsaw with a cross chain.

Presented on the market today, have different dimensions. One of the main parameters of the saw chain is the number of links, i.e. chain length. In addition, chain systems have certain step. It is measured by the distance between three links in series, divided by two.

Pitch classification of saw chains

Depending on the pitch value, saw chains are divided into 5 classes:

1. 0,25 (1/4)’’

Small pitch have chains mounted on single-handed chainsaws. Such a tool does not differ in power, however, it allows you to perform precise work, incl. in hard-to-reach places.

1. 0.325'' and 3/8''

Chains with such pitch values ​​are the most widely used. Over 80% of the tools produced in the world are equipped with such chain sets.

1. 0.404'' and 3/4''

Large chain sets are installed on big saws with increased productivity - felling systems, harvester equipment, etc.

It is obvious that what more sizes chain links, greater productivity she possesses. At the same time, it should be remembered that the cut will also be wider, which means that a large saw will be needed to overcome the resistance of wood to cutting.

Shank Thickness Classification

The thickness of the leading links is the second most important chain parameter. It must match the size of the groove of the tire, along which the latter slides during operation. Due to this, the reliability of landing is increased and the risk of its jumping off during operation is eliminated. The chain itself runs smoothly, without unnecessary jerks and vibrations.

Global saw chain manufacturers produce headsets in 5 main sizes:

• 1.1 mm (miniature chains for mini saws);
• 1.3 mm (the most in demand, because they are installed on);
• 1.5 mm (installed on saws of high power and productivity);
• 1.6 and 2 mm (thick shank chains are used on professional and industrial saws).

Profile height, cutting depth and saw engine capacity

Depending on the height of the cutting edge located above the plane of the guide bar, saw chains are divided into high and low profile. The former provide maximum performance, while the latter have an increased area of ​​support for the cutting link, as a result of which they produce thin chips and are safer to work with.

The depth of cut is the amount of clearance between the top edge of the cutter and the kerf stop, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Saw sets with gaps of 0.025'' and 0.03'' are most in demand, while chains with a value of this parameter up to 0.07'' are used as part of machine felling units. It is the depth of cut that determines the performance of the chain set. However, the larger it is, the more the saw will vibrate during operation. In order to balance performance and vibration on a chain with a large pitch, manufacturers install cutting teeth with a minimum depth and vice versa.

The engine size of the saw is most directly related to. If the latter is set to too powerful tool, then it will be subject to increased loads and will fail much earlier than the due date. Therefore, when buying a chain set, you should carefully study specifications the saw itself.

The order of the cutting links

The list of basic parameters of saw chains also contains the order of the cutting links. In the standard design, each of the cutters has a pair of shanks. In a chain with a half pass, every third cutter is replaced by a leading link, and in headsets with a full pass, every second. Chains of the second and third types are not produced - they are made by a handicraft method from factory products.

Pass-through and semi-pass-through headsets cost significantly less than standard headsets, but are inferior to them in terms of performance, reliability, and ease of use.

Saw chain lubrication system

The reliability and efficiency of the latter directly depend on the quality. In order to ensure the normal operation of the tool, manufacturers supply it with an oil pump that supplies oil to the cutting system through special holes. The chain itself is responsible for the uniform distribution of oil - its shanks, passing through the sprocket, capture the lubricant, which, as a result of the movement of the headset, spreads over it and the saw bar. Often, to increase the efficiency of lubrication, special channels are made in the driving links using a cutter or drill, and additional recesses are made in the connecting links.

The chainsaw lubrication system works to reduce the destructive effect of friction and, of course, heating. This significantly increases the service life of both the chain set and the tool as a whole. Therefore, the user must control the lubrication process. If, when accelerating the chain, there is no oil trace on the cutting line, this means that the saw is overheating, and the chain itself can become dull rather quickly, or even burst.

In order to increase the lubricating effect, global manufacturers produce oils for saws on an organic basis. They cost a little more, but they provide a quarter less consumption, and when allocated in environment self-decompose within a few hours.

Modern chainsaws can be equipped with chains and tires with various parameters. However, before purchasing a new headset for specific model, you should make sure that its lubrication system will cope with its functions during operation.

Vibration and kickback when sawing

Neither the first nor the second can be avoided when working with a chainsaw, but their intensity can be reduced. occurs due to the collision of incisors with wood. At the moment of contact of the cutting edge with the tree, for a fraction of a second it is sandwiched between it and the tire. Part of the impact energy through the headset, the drive sprocket and the body of the saw is transferred to the user's hands.

To reduce the effect of kickback due to vibrations when sawing wood,:

• beveled cut limiter (provides a soft movement of the chain due to the smooth sliding of the wood from the cutter);
• cushioning protrusions on the shanks and connectors (contribute to the damping of vibration when it is transferred to the sprocket);
• beveled or overestimated heel of the cutter (provides subsidence of the chain at the moment of impact, which not only dampens vibration, but also reduces wear on the chain set and saw bar).

Through the use of these structural elements in the chain, the risk of injury when the saw bounces due to the contact of the toe of the tire with a hard surface is significantly reduced.

Saw chain maintenance: highlights

The saw set, bar and drive sprocket are consumables. Therefore, the most important questions when buying an instrument and a headset for it relate to reliability and durability. In many ways, they depend on the type and intensity of work that the user will perform. Not less than important role are playing:

• headset lubrication;
• running in and tensioning the chain;
• sharpening of incisors;
• tool care.

The running-in of the chain set is carried out by soaking it in oil for a while, followed by a short run at idle and adjusting the tension. If the chain is not tight enough, it will constantly jump off, while overtightening leads to an increase in the load on the chain and its premature wear.

Due to intensive saw chain cutters become dull. So that each time you do not have to buy a new headset, the user can sharpen the cutting elements on their own. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the correspondence of the sharpness of the cutter angles and the height of the limiter to the factory parameters. In addition, you need to make sure that all the cutting links of the chain are sharpened equally. Otherwise, the performance of the tool will decrease or vibration and load on the saw motor will increase.

Another important point when working with a chainsaw is to control the integrity of the chain. If any cracks, wear or damage occurs, it should be replaced. In conclusion, we note that only competent selection, as well as timely and proper care behind the tool and headset can ensure the normal performance, durability, reliability and, of course, the safety of the chainsaw.

Chainsaw service, video

A chainsaw can be called a fairly common tool that is used for cutting wood. Machining in this case is carried out by means of a special saw chain, the fixation of which is carried out on a special tire. Prolonged and improper operation quite often becomes the reason why it is necessary to dismantle and sharpen. At the same time, there are no problems with removing the chain for longitudinal sawing and putting it on today, but there are still problems with direct sharpening. Let us consider the features of such a procedure in more detail.

The modern ripping chain is well represented complex design, which is manufactured using high-quality steel, characterized by increased wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Among the features are the following:

1. The design is represented by separate links, which are interconnected in a special way. This ensures high level flexibility, the rip chain can follow the complex shape of the bar.
2. There are several different inserts for their intended purpose: cutting, guiding and connecting. The cutters carry out the direct removal of the material.

The natural process of operation becomes the reason for the wear of the cutting inserts. In addition, violation of operating recommendations can also lead to a similar result, for example, if soil has entered the cutting zone.

That is why all owners of such a tool should pay attention to exactly how sharpening is carried out.

Sharpening the chain for longitudinal sawing, as a rule, is carried out exclusively when worn, periodically the procedure is performed extremely rarely. That is why you need to know exactly what signs indicate the need for such a procedure. Among the features of the issue under consideration, we note the following:

1. The chain saw chain tooth of a chainsaw is characterized by a complex configuration, so it will not be possible to determine defects simply by visual inspection.
2. To check the condition of the teeth, a trial sawing is carried out. If vibration occurs during such work, this indicates the need for sharpening.
3. You can also determine the condition of the ripping chain by visually inspecting the chips. Rough chips and dents also indicate the need for service.
4. Chainsaw pressure is also taken into account when assessing the condition of the chain. At first, when sawing, the inserts easily enter the material, but with heavy wear, even at the beginning it is necessary to apply force.

A visual inspection may also reveal rounding and tapered areas that indicate chain wear and other defects. However, such a sign can only be detected by a specialist with extensive experience.

Grinding angles and saw tooth configuration

As previously noted, the product in question is characterized by a rather complex configuration. Among the features modern options performance, the following points can be noted:

1. The choice of a chain for longitudinal sawing is carried out for a specific chainsaw model, since the configuration largely depends on power and some other points.
2. For rip sawing, the insert spacing is 0.325 inches. This ensures high stability at the time of operation.
3. The cutting edge may have a thickness of 1.3 mm. On sale there are also versions that have a thickness of about 1.1 mm, but they are difficult to sharpen at home. In addition, the small thickness allows cutting not thick branches.
4. Attention is also paid to the height of the profile, which varies in the range from 0.625 to 0.762 mm. For domestic versions, the low profile version is suitable. This indicator determines the likelihood of vibration at the time of sawing.

The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain largely depends on the purpose of the tool, as some are suitable for cross cutting, others for sawing. Longitudinal resistance of wood to sawing is very high, so the edges must be very sharp. The recommended sharpening angle is 6-12°. The difference in cutting angles is selected depending on the task, as well as some other points.

When performing work, do not forget that too low a sharpening rate causes rapid edge grinding. This moment is the most important in the case when the product is manufactured using alloyed steels, for example, grade 40HGS.

Chainsaw Sharpening Template

To significantly simplify the procedure, it is recommended to purchase a special template, which greatly simplifies the procedure for setting the required angle. Such a tool allows you to check the indicator of the back angles of the conical and upper blades, as well as the leading edge of the cutting edge.

Experts point out that it is most important to use a template to control the back angle. This is due to the complexity of changing this indicator, while it must be maintained in a strict range.

A fairly common indicator is the grinding angle, which also varies depending on the task.

Too high hardness of the material determines the need to reduce this indicator. Experts point out that optimal value varies from 10 to 12°.

Quite widespread are special tools that can be used to simplify the procedure. Such machines are equipped with a special electric drive and with increased wear resistance.

Suitable tool for home use small sizes. Such devices can be powered from a 220 V network, and at the same time the power consumption indicator is 100 watts. Installing the chain is quite simple, the sharpening procedure can be carried out even without special training.

When choosing a machine, pay attention to the following points:

1. Adjusting the sharpening angle in a certain required range.
2. Possibility of processing a chain with different pitch and thickness of the cutting edge.
3. Features of the procedure for changing grinding discs.
4. Control of the cutting width value.
5. Installed power electric motor and energy consumption indicator.

In conclusion, we note that mistakes made at the time of sharpening can cause increased chain wear. That is why, with frequent use of the tool and the absence of a sharpening machine that requires it, it is recommended to entrust the work to professionals who provide appropriate services.

Sharpening a chainsaw chain is easy. True, subject to the use of special tools. Without them, it is impossible to cope with the task: the saw chain has a very complex geometry.

The chainsaw chain is sharpened for longitudinal sawing as necessary. The more intensively the saw is used, the faster its chain becomes dull. In some cases, during the day you need to perform several sharpening. The fastest tire loses its sharpness when in contact with the soil. It is enough to hook the ground with it several times, as the chips become small, and the tool refuses to go deep into the wood.

Timely sharpening of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing not only speeds up work, but also extends the life of the chain. Determining the moment when it needs to be sharpened is easy. Dull teeth are indicated by the need to increase the feed force during sawing. A dull chain can also be recognized by small chips - ideally, large thick chips should fly out from under the bar.

The nuances of sharpening

If you decide to buy a chainsaw, you will not regret it - they sell high-quality devices that can last for many years. The main thing - do not forget to sharpen the saw chain in time.

To obtain ideal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the blades of the teeth. The back of the tooth, falling back, forms the angle of the blade (rear). It is necessary for cutting the chain into wood. The blade, tapering back, is needed to cut the chips in the assembly. In other words, each corner plays its role.

The angle of sharpening the chain can be changed, starting from the features of its application. For example, for longitudinal sawing, it should be 10 degrees.

General sharpening rules

The internal contours of the chainsaw chain are shaped like a circle. A small round file is used to sharpen them. It must be held with a confident hand and at a certain angle. The upper edge of the file in relation to the edge of the tooth should protrude by about 20% of the tool diameter. When choosing the diameter of the file, you need to start from the chain pitch.

One file is not enough for you. When sharpening the chain, use a special kit sold with a chainsaw or purchased separately. Sets of this kind consist of a hook for cleaning the chain from chips, a round file and a flat file used when filing the depth gauge.

Chainsaw - essential tool for domestic needs, He will find a worthy application in the country. A chainsaw is easy to cut wood for a stove or fireplace. She also performs well and every owner of such an assistant should know correct angle Calling a specialist at home, and, moreover, at the cottage, costs a lot of money. Therefore, you have to manage on your own.

Although it is better to entrust sharpening to a professional, some lumberjacks have learned this craft on their own. If logging specialists have to sharpen the chain 3-4 times a day, then the ordinary gardener does not have such a need due to the fact that he rarely uses the tool. How can you master the craft yourself? There are some recommendations for this.

Features of the chainsaw

Sawing wood is like working with a planer. In this case, the size of the cut depends on the thickness of the limiter. When the saw chain is run hard, the teeth will dull faster. This is clearly manifested when the ground surface appears in the path of the chain. To completely dull the teeth, it is enough to “hook” on the ground for a couple of seconds.

If sharpened as often as possible, the chain will last much longer, since very little metal will be removed. In addition to the question of what chainsaw chain sharpening angle should be, this should also be known!

Working with a dull tool is undesirable for a number of reasons. First of all, this affects the quality of the cut, and not for the better. Also, fatigue quickly sets in, which is felt not only in the hands, but also in the body.

Another reason is unjustified excessive fuel consumption. All parts will work in enhanced mode, which inevitably leads to their rapid wear. Performance drops seriously, which also happens when using a defective circuit.

Features of the structure of the chain

To effectively be able to sharpen a chainsaw chain, you need to know the structure of its teeth. You can not do without knowing the angle of sharpening. Each tooth has a complex structure. Its geometry is represented by the following components:

• basis;
• spatula;
• depth limiter.

In this case, the blade consists of two blades: end and top. Moreover, between them there must be the correct angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain in order to provide it with the necessary performance.

As you can now guess - it is not the chain that cuts the tree, since it serves as the basis for fixing the cutting links, it moves them at high speed. The links themselves have sharp blades, with the help of which the wood is cut.

How do you know when sharpening is needed?

It is possible to determine whether the chain teeth have been ground off or not by some characteristic features. Of course, it all depends on how intensively the chainsaw is used. It is worth taking a closer look at what chips it leaves. Its uniformity and square shapes indicate sharp teeth. If the chain has worn off, then it usually leaves behind wood dust, and the sawdust itself looks like needles that a hand saw “produces”.

If the cutting speed is reduced, then this is also considered a sign of a blunt chain. There is an increase in the load on the instrument itself and the appearance of vibration. Beginners do not always manage to notice some of these signs. Therefore, they should pay more attention to the quality of the chips. Sometimes it is brown, which is already guaranteed to indicate that it is time to sharpen the chain.

Sharpening methods

To sharpen the tool, you can turn to the services of craftsmen who not only know what angle of sharpening chainsaw chains is needed, but also do all the work quickly and efficiently. professional level. As a rule, the cost of such services is not so high, but the quality, on the contrary, is very high! This option is suitable for those lovers of logging who do not have the desire to mess with their tool.

Everyone else will be interested in trying their hand at such a thing. Professionals in this regard always choose automatic equipment, which is different maximum efficiency and precision. Of course, not every lumberjack can afford to buy it, and therefore they manage in different ways. And here, among many amateurs, there are discussions on the topic of which technique is better to give preference to:

• manual;
• alternative;
• modern.

Do not neglect the signs of blunting, and as soon as necessary, proceed with the operation of sharpening the chainsaw chain. This will allow you to use it for as long as possible.

Correct sharpening angle values

The angle is not a constant value, does not depend on the manufacturer or model of the equipment. It is selected taking into account what kind of tree you have to deal with. You can choose some average value, but the cutting efficiency may be ineffective. For this reason, it is necessary to choose the correct value, taking into account the specific type of wood.

When it comes to solid wood, including those trees that have been "frozen" for a long time, it has a high resistivity. In this regard, the sharpening angle should be reduced. This will virtually eliminate the occurrence of vibrations, and the chain will be softer. The minimum value is 25°.

With regard to soft woods, you can increase the sharpening angle, but not more than 35 °. This will improve performance significantly. As for the sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing, the value is 10 °. In this case, the cut will be as even as possible, and the vibration of the equipment is minimized. Knowing these features, we can proceed to consider different ways sharpening.

manual method

This is the simplest and slowest method for sharpening chain teeth. Nevertheless, the method is good when sharpening is done on the spot in the forest. Do not carry the whole machine with you all the time ?! But here it’s worth being more precise - it means not one tool, but a whole set, which includes:

• flat file;
• round file;
• sample.

Each of them performs their duties. The main purpose of a flat tool is to sharpen the depth gauge.

The round file already performs the main operation, making the cutting edges sharper. Each chain requires a specific tool diameter:

• step ¼ inch - 4 mm;
• pitch 0.325 - 4.8 mm;
• pitch 3/8 inch - 5.2 mm;
• pitch 0.404 - 5.5 mm.

For Picco chains, which are equipped with Stihl 180 chainsaws with a pitch of 3/8 and a quarter of an inch, a file with a diameter of 4 mm is also suitable. It's important to keep it right. Relatively vertical plane the file must be placed strictly perpendicular to the chain, and in relation to the horizontal - at a slight angle (about 30 °). The specific sharpening angle is selected depending on the needs, but within 25-35 °.

Unlike sharpening a chainsaw chain on a machine, the angle here can be set using a template, which is considered useful assistant. To do this, it is equipped with two slots: SOFT/S (for softwood) and HARD/H (for hardwood). The template should be fixed above the chain, which gives it the privileges of a limiter.

It should only be borne in mind that this method is not intended for permanent use, but only serves as a blade dressing. Too much use of the file over time leads to wear of the chain, and the teeth themselves will be sharpened unevenly.

Bulgarian is a good alternative

Professional lumberjacks consider this method primitive and time-consuming. It is used in last resort, since the angle grinder cannot be fixed on the template. For this reason, it is very difficult to achieve control over compliance with a constant angle and depth of sharpening.

The tire is securely fixed in a vice in order to exclude its mobility during operation. You should not mount a new cutting disc on the grinder, it is better to use an old circle with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm.

It is better for beginners not to use this method at all - they will be more whole. There is a risk of serious injury to yourself. In addition, there is no way to do without the skills to work with such equipment.

Modern Method

Almost every non-professional is concerned about the question, what is the angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain on the machine? It will not work to constantly use a file, it is difficult to use a grinder, and for beginners this procedure is completely dangerous. There's nothing you can do about it, you have to use machines that can be both mechanical and electrical.

WITH manual machine you have to work for a whole "eternity", and you get pleasure from using the electrical analogue. Today, there are a variety of models to choose from that provide

• correct sharpening angle;
• high level of work quality;
• high sharpening speed.

It is also worth noting that sharpening is carried out evenly in relation to all links. All you need to do is turn on the equipment, set the required angle, enjoy the spectacle or do other things. The cost of such machines varies from 2 to 4 thousand rubles. But most importantly, it will not be difficult to determine the angle of sharpening the chain of the "Shtil" chainsaw on the machine.

Although it takes a long time to mess around with manual equipment - the process is very long, but it costs several times cheaper. By appearance the machine resembles a bow saw, only instead of a blade - a round file. The smallest tooth is also taken as the basis. At the same time, two or three movements are enough for sharpening, after which you can move on to the next link. If necessary, process the limiter - the file changes (round is replaced by a flat one).

Sharpening rules

The same type of sections of each link must be uniformly processed. Otherwise, if in any one area there is an excessive selection of metal, then ultimately this leads to imbalance, uneven travel and jerks during the operation of the chainsaw. The load on the mechanism increases many times, which in turn threatens to break the chain.

Therefore, to carry out the operation at the required angle of sharpening the chain of the Stihl 180 chainsaw (as well as any other tool) should be done with extreme caution, avoiding excessive force. The procedure itself is carried out sequentially, that is, you need to start on one side, then finish on the other.

In some cases, it can be observed that any one cutting edge (or several) has worn off more strongly. This happens when the chain on its way ran into a knot, which occurs when sawing. Then it is necessary to determine which of the teeth has worn off the most and equalize all the other links along it.

After sharpening is completed, blow the chain with air from the compressor or pump, and then place it in a container of engine oil for a short time. Usually few people do this, but for the chain it will be useful.

Some helpful tips help keep the equipment in working condition, as well as eliminate the risk of injury. Of course, it is necessary to know the correct angle of sharpening the Stihl chainsaw chain. But timely tire care is also important:

1. Must be monitored Especially if the chainsaw tilts to one side during operation. Poor tension can pose a threat to a person.
2. Sharpen in a timely manner, without putting everything off indefinitely. Let it be expensive, but it is better to give preference to electrical equipment.
3. Regularly lubricate the entire chain, otherwise it may fly off (its speed is about 100 km / h). Everyone will make their own conclusions.
4. Do not use used motor oil or any product of questionable quality. It is worth choosing only specialized lubricants. How the best remedy- autol.

Before you start working with a chainsaw, the chain should be run in. Let it run at minimum speed for 40-50 seconds. Lubrication will reach every part, and the chains with an asterisk will heat up a little, rub against each other.

All these expert advice should not be ignored if you want to stay safe and sound!

Finally

The sharpening angle of chainsaw chains is selected based on which tree you need to cut. If you have free time and desire, it will not be difficult to restore the equipment to working capacity. Even an amateur who has worked with a file at least once in his life can cope with the work. Of course, for this you will have to spend from 30 to 700 rubles for the purchase sharpening set. The approximate cost of chain sharpening services in some company is 200-300 rubles. The final choice is up to the lumberjack.