Hi all! Are you ready to craft? Today we will make a wood burner with our own hands from improvised materials. Despite the simplicity of the design and materials from which we will make a wood burner, it has enough power to burn a hole in a piece of wood 1 cm thick.
It will be a pocket burner that runs on a 2A phone charger. If you need to quickly put an inscription or logo on a tree, as well as try your hand at pyrography, do not rush to the store. Use this instruction, spend a little time, and assemble a pocket wood burner from improvised materials.
We'll need
- Phone power supply (at least 2A)
- Needle from a syringe
- sewing needle
- Wooden skewer (sushi stick)
- Heat shrink
- Soldering iron, flux, solder
We make a wood burner with our own hands
So you've made sure that the list necessary details is in every home. And if something is missing, contact your neighbor, he definitely has it.
Bite off the tip of the needle from the syringe. And bite off the eye of the sewing needle.
Clip on wooden stick, using a thread, two needles parallel to each other. Leave the lower ends of the needles open, we will solder the wire from the charger to them.
Bend the sewing needle so that it just touches the needle from the syringe.
Apply flux and tin the needles as shown in the photo.
Bite off or disassemble the charger connector. We need a red and black wire (plus and minus). Solder the red and black wire to the needles, polarity doesn't matter.
The wood burner is almost ready. Use heat shrink or electrical tape to insulate the contacts.
Conclusion
So we figured out how to make a wood burner with our own hands. There are burners different types and varying complexity. Today we have collected the easiest and cheapest option. At the same time, we used readily available improvised materials and did not spend a lot of time.
We make an electric burner for wood from a pulse transformer. Once in childhood, it was considered for granted to have an electric wood burner at home. And now, I thought to make a similar device for my son (4 years old). After all, a drawing on paper may not be preserved, while a scorched wood one will please you years later. Yes, and I, as a radio amateur, will come in handy. They can cut plastics in the manufacture of cases, you can also solder, and even cut textolite. And also, carefully cut the ropes (if you are a climber :-).The device has two modes of operation. In the first position of the switch norm» (I) it works at half power: at about 30-35W. In the second " turbo» (II) - 65-70W. The yellow LED shines in both modes, the red one only in the second. Any indication LEDs, not bright ( AL307).
In order to make an electric burner, you will need a cheap (2-2.5 dollars) Chinese-made switching power supply (UPS), 50-60 W, for halogen lamps. You can find them in stores furniture fittings or hardware stores.
Scheme of the burner
Schematic diagram of an electric burner based on ET
On the Internet, I met a remake for making an impulse soldering iron. In the case of a burner, minimal alteration of the UPS will be required.
First, remove the board from the case and solder the output transformer. A lot has been written about these schemes, so I will not delve into the details. It does quite well as an electric burner. I will only say that bipolar transistors MJE13003 (TUVE13007) can be replaced by more powerful current - MJE13005, MJE13007(the last digit means the operating current). At choosing a UPS, you need to take into account the fact that it should not have short-circuit protection!
So, having removed the transformer from the board, it must be disassembled. A lot has also been written about the disassembly of ferromagnetic transformers. But, I will share my experience. First of all, remove the film and use a knife to remove the glue on the core connection. Then heat water in a small container until it boils. But do not immediately throw into boiling water, but heat first warm water. Due to the fact that the quality of these trances is very low, they can split. Therefore, warming it up a little, lower it into boiling water, leaving it there for a few seconds. The procedure can be repeated, and try to loosen the winding body, and also walk with a knife along the seams of the ferrite halves. In the end, you will manage to disassemble it, but do not rush, do everything with caution. In my case, even after breaking such a trance, I did not despair, and connected the four pieces of the core with tape. Some glue the split slices, but even without that it works great, the future tightly compressed with adhesive tape.
Having disassembled the transformer, we remove the secondary winding, and in its place we wind 3-4 turns of stranded wire, with a cross section of 2.5-4mm2. For this, an electrical cable (network) is suitable. The insulation is preliminarily removed, and in its place, a heat-shrinkable cambric of suitable sizes is put on. Why heat shrink tubing? Because she takes less space, regarding cable insulation. Now, we wind four turns, with a tap from the third. The voltage on the last turn will be approximately 9.0-10.5V. It remains to assemble the transformer back, and fish out the conclusions, as can be seen in the photographs.
It's time to deal with the body of the electric burner. To do this, we need an aluminum furniture leg. Yes, yes, furniture again! It is very cheap (less than a dollar), but most importantly, it is made of 1 mm thick aluminum. Thus, the case will serve as a thermal sink for transistors that are very hot. Square leg height =100mm. The issue of the front panel is also solved. To do this, we disassemble the leg, and leave a plastic plug with which we cut off a part - so that all the components of the product fit. Further, the radiator for transistor switches is also aluminum.
I used a 5mm thick plate radiator. It already had threaded holes, which I later used. But if you find a copper plate, then it will definitely serve as a better heat sink. Also, you can use any other radiator of a suitable size. In addition to this radiator, I connected an aluminum U-shaped profile - you guessed it, also furniture, which fits closely into the square profile of the case.
The radiator must be in close contact with the body! Thus, the heat will be distributed evenly, with more efficient throughout the body without the need for bulky heatsinks. The U-shaped profile is connected to the radiator plate with a small gap (2-3 mm) through small washers and then we fasten this “sandwich” to the plate included in the impulse switch kit. Transistors and the board are necessarily fixed through an insulator, also from the UPS. The body of the burner is preferably grounded.
Do not forget, the device is connected to a mains voltage of 220V, so we take all safety measures during assembly and commissioning!
Now, we drill holes in the plastic front panel, under the switch of operating modes of the electric burner - under the wires and under the LEDs red And yellow glow. We connect LEDs with limiting resistors with hot glue, as can be seen in the photo.
Next, we twist the switch and connect all the wires by soldering (see figure). Switch - P2T-21(Soviet-made, maximum switching power up to 660 W with active load). It is necessary to use as powerful a toggle switch as possible, otherwise the contacts will overheat! Max power electric burner reaches 70 watts.
To the body, as legs (anti-slip), we glue self-adhesives made of cork or silicone (available from glaziers and furniture makers). As a handle, I used a ready-made handle from a burner industrial production. And if you make it yourself, then the handle from a burnt soldering iron will do. Or we cut it out of textolite, wood with a fluoroplastic tip of suitable thickness. Mounting for nichrome - the terminals of the electric pads are just right for this purpose.
I found nichrome for tips with a diameter of 0.8-1.5 mm on the radio market. Suitable for various heating devices. It must be bent as in the photographs and flatten the tip with a hammer. I made two types of tips: one of millimeter nichrome - for burning and cutting, the other of one and a half millimeter, for rougher work. Accordingly, the second one will effectively heat up in a more powerful operating mode of the device (turbo).
The wire for the electric burner must be selected with a large cross section and the most flexible. Otherwise it will overheat. Naturally, the electric burner will work intermittently, about 15-30 minutes.
Firstly, the efficiency is very low, which leads to large heat losses. And secondly, the handle will heat up, which forces you to work with it cyclically. For more convenient use, I advise you to adapt the push-button pedal (from sewing machine or from some machine) or a push-button power switch, etc. I did not make additional holes in the case or radiator for heat dissipation. This is up to you, depending on the heatsink used.
The device is very easy to manufacture, thanks to turnkey solutions to assemble it. It can be made by any beginner, with minimal skills in electronics. The main thing is to follow the safety rules when working with it. After all, the temperature of the tip reaches 500-600 degrees.
If you make an electric burner for a child, then the presence of an adult when working with it is mandatory. I hope it brings joy and creative success! ).
Discuss the article ELECTRIC BURNER
Why exactly homemade burner? There are many domestic and imported models of electric burners for wood on sale: Orbita, Uzor, Elm (ours), Stayer, Qiddycome (Chinese) and others. But lovers of art painting with a hardened needle on wood are not always satisfied with this choice.
Domestic devices usually have only one needle, imported ones have from 4 to 21 nozzles with different needles, but suffer from fragility. And you can’t always buy the right device in the right place in right time. Here we will talk about the experience of manufacturing by one Siberian enthusiast, amateur, a solid home-made electric wood burner with 39 (!) Needles (see photo). We will conduct, so to speak, a master class on his behalf.
First of all, we set three basic requirements for the design:
1. Sufficiently large capacity of the power supply unit, allowing the use of needles of large sections.
2. The possibility of step voltage adjustment for working with needles of different sections and smooth adjustment for changing the temperature of the needles in a wide range.
3. Convenient change of working needles.
Simple circuit diagram device is shown in the figure. 
Now let's move on to the process of its manufacture.
We take any power transformer of at least 200 W (other characteristics are insignificant), for example, OSM 380/36V (250 kW). At lower power, the transformer will overheat during operation with needles of large cross sections. Completely remove the secondary (top) winding. The primary (network) remains in place.
We rewind the secondary winding: one or two layers of flexible insulated wire with a cross section of 6 mm 2 (for example, PV-3). You should first calculate the number of turns per 1 V of the output voltage (by selection: wind a few turns, turn on the transformer in the network and measure the output voltage).
Let, for example, it turned out to be 4 turns per 1 V. Having determined the value of 2 V for the lower limit of the output voltage, we wind 8 turns first, and then we make taps after every two turns. This will give a resolution of 0.5 V for step adjustment. To ensure a resolution of 0.25 V, add another turn (in the diagram, the top tap is 0.25 V).
In addition to stepwise, we also use continuous adjustment of the output voltage by inserting a variable wire resistor PPB-25 100 Ω (in the diagram - R1) into the primary winding circuit.
In view of high power of the device, we will abandon the “father-mother” connector, and securely connect the working handle with the needle to the body with galvanized M6 bolts. We will equip the taps and ends of the secondary winding with tinned copper lugs 6/6.
Working with needles of large cross-sections requires a current of at least 30 A. Therefore, the cross-section of the wires of the operating handle must be at least 4 mm². You can take two cores with rubber insulation from a KG 4x4 cable (vinyl insulation of a wire of the same cross section does not provide it with the necessary flexibility).
We turn the handle on lathe from ebonite. We firmly insert a fluoroplastic plug with two brass rods into the front end of the handle for attaching the working needle (see photo). These rods fit snugly into the holes drilled in the cork. At the ends of the rods, recesses of 8-10 mm are drilled. Tinned contacts are pressed into the recesses inside the handle. A needle is attached to the outer recesses. M4 screws are suitable for clamping the needle.
Anything can be used as a case, you just need to remember about safety. Very good, for example, is the case from a megohmmeter of the last century: it is fantastically strong and durable.
Many people today, both adults and children, love to burn wood. This hobby even has its own name - pyrography. This type of art appeared a long time ago, and its essence lies in the depiction of drawings on solid surfaces of wood in such a way as to capture the picture for a long time. This requires a heated object that can melt the surface and leave traces.
What materials are needed? Wood is suitable for the basis for the future image, since this material is one of the most inexpensive and pliable to burning.
Undoubtedly, every person at least once in his life had to see the result of pyrography. This word is translated as "image with the help of fire." The drawings look really original.
Like drawing, wood burning is a rather voluminous and painstaking work. To create a masterpiece of pyrography, it is not enough to depict an element or someone's face. It is necessary to convey every stroke, even the most insignificant, displaying the expression of the eyes and mood.
How to make a burner yourself?
To create a burner with your own hands, you will need quick wit and perseverance, since this is not the easiest thing to do, and the scheme is quite confusing. In the manufacture, you will have to use different equipment that is not in the usual sale.
What will we need?
The list of required items depends on what kind of wood burner you want to make. The only thing you need in any case is a nichrome thread. The next required parts are the wire and the battery. It is good if the battery is rechargeable, since constant work with the device will consume a lot of simple batteries- it will hit you in the pocket.
There are also some requirements for the wire. A good wire will be the key to your safety, so approach the issue responsibly.
Where can I get a diagram?
You can develop the scheme yourself. We also present several different schemes from elementary to complex. All inventions were calculated according to the requirements of the developer, and you can choose the appropriate option.
It should be noted that each person is individual and has his own character and requirements. There are a lot of options for schemes, so you can try to make your own, even if it is more complicated and demanding than those presented.
Of course, it will be easier to implement your own scheme for those people who are familiar with the laws of physics and who have encountered electrical circuits. If you do not understand this, find information and a picture of the circuits, understand them and find out what works and how.
Where to begin?
You should always start with modeling the burner in your head, and then you need to transfer the drawing to paper. When there are clear ideas, you can start looking for components. This will take a little time, since the main details are available in almost any home. If you need a pyrograph with interchangeable nozzles and temperature changes, things get more complicated.
How to make a simple burner?
Few people have enough time to create a complex burner, so let's consider a simple option.
materials
To assemble this device, you will need the following:
- sewing needle;
- needle from a medical syringe;
- double wire.
The needle is very important as its quality will affect the quality of your masterpieces. It is better to choose a thin and sharp needle. The needle from the syringe will heat up to red when working, and the sewing needle will lightly touch it - this will cause resistance and help warm the needle.
Assembly process
To make a burner, you will need a cap from a syringe needle and a sewing needle with a threaded thread. It is necessary to pierce the cap with a needle and stretch the thread to the end so that the needle lies against the cap. To secure, wrap it with the rest of the thread, and the needle should go beyond the cap and be placed parallel to it.
We return to the syringe part. We do not need a cone-shaped cap - we remove it. We attach the needle to the opposite part of the cap with another thread and a sewing needle. Now we slightly bend the tip of the needle so that it barely touches the sewing needle with its tip. As we said than less area contact, the faster the burner will heat up.
Nutrition
We take a good double wire - it should be stripped on both sides and two holes should be made in the cap to bring the wire out. After that, connect each wire to the needles - screw them as tightly as possible, since the quality of the current flow will depend on this.
For quality and safety, finally secure the wire with electrical tape.
Finally, use an unnecessary button, for example, from an old tape recorder, and a battery. The main thing is not to reverse the polarity, otherwise the device will not warm up.
Summing up
It should be noted that burning today is not just a kind of hobby, but can become a way to earn money. Every day, the demand for burning landscapes and portraits is increasing - this occupation competes with woodcarving. Initially, it was created to diversify the interiors of old houses of the 19th-20th centuries. When it was impossible to buy in stores beautiful furniture, it had to be created by hand.
In fact, you can make any kind of wood burner in no time. A drawn drawing or sketch will simplify the assembly process and the creation of the device.
It doesn't matter how complex your device will be - the main thing is to get the tip right. The quality of all created paintings depends on it. If the burner draws patterns on wood as accurately as possible, you can draw images of any complexity.
Scheme of a wood burner:
If you need an inexpensive but very convenient and reliable wood burner, then pay your attention to Figure No. 1.
Figure number 1 - Wood burner scheme
C1 - 27nF or 273nF / 300V
C2 - 22nF or 223nF / 300V
C3 - 47nF or 473nF / 300V
FU1 - Fuse 0.5 - 1.5 A
VS1 - Dinistor DB3 / 30 V
TP1 - Step-down transformer 220/3 ... 8 V Current depending on the load (nichrome wire resistance).
The operation of the wood burner scheme and its settings:
To make such a scheme is within the power of even a novice radio amateur or home master, primitive skills are needed to be able to solder and set up circuits (if all the elements are selected adequately and the circuit is assembled correctly, it will immediately work as it should). However, a few subtleties should be highlighted:
1) I draw your attention to the fact that the adjustment of the output voltage of the transformer TP1 (and hence the incandescent temperature of the nichrome wire) is carried out according to the primary winding, do not be confused by this innovation! Since the power regulator circuit for a soldering iron is taken as the basis, you should understand that for any heating element (in this case, a piece of nichrome wire), the shape and quality of the sinusoid is not important.
2) However, I draw your attention to the fact that the secondary winding of the transformer must withstand the current consumed by the nichrome wire (you can easily calculate it using Ohm's law).
3) You should also use thick wires leading to the handle of the wood burner, and well insulated, not following the rules of electrical safety when assembling or using the device can lead to injury!!!
Nichrome wire holder for wood burner:
Surely, it will not be difficult for you to assemble the power supply for the burner, but what if you do not have a convenient holding handle (electrode)? I offer you a very simple but very convenient option handles. You will need a thick wire, a dielectric (or wooden) handle from an old burned-out soldering iron, a piece of textolite or carbolite or other dielectric heat-resistant material, electrical tape, nichrome wire (you can bite off a piece from an incandescent spiral for an electric stove) Figure No. 2, and electrical terminals Figure No. 3 .
Figure #2 - Necessary materials for burner handle
Figure No. 3 - Wiring terminals
You need to pull the terminals out of the insulation and screw them to the textolite as shown in Figure No. 4.5.
Figure No. 4 - Assembly of the handle
Figure No. 5 - Explanation of how to screw the terminals correctly
Then you just have to tape (or attach with a plastic tie or thread) the wire to the textolite pad and to the terminals (the ends of the wire must be soldered) and press it into the wooden handle Figure No. 6.
Figure No. 6 - Wood burner handle
It is a pleasure to work with such a wood burner because, firstly, you have a comfortable handle in which you can quickly and easily replace a burned-out nichrome wire since it is screwed to the terminals, unlike simple burners. Secondly, it is possible to adjust the temperature of the glow wire (Figure No. 7), which is quite important when working with various types of wood.
Figure number 7 - Hot nichrome wire
(Explanation to figure No. 7: my version of the handle has a special tip that will be quite difficult for you to reproduce, so I offer you a simpler version with terminals)
And thirdly, the assembly of such a burner is relatively simple and not expensive. The only thing that will be difficult for you to choose is a step-down transformer, since, despite the low voltage (3-8 Volts, depending on your needs), the secondary winding must be designed for high current (from 3 Amperes).
When all the details of the wood burner are collected by you, you just have to shove it all into a neat case and start blurting out various kinds of pictures and works of art (figure No. 8).
Figure No. 8 - Wood burner ( appearance) and an image burned on a tree.
P.S.: I tried to clearly show and describe not tricky tips. I hope that at least something will be useful to you. But this is not all that is possible to invent, so go ahead and study the site
