Features of the use of an oil heater and its equipment. Oil cooler wiring diagram. Why does the oil heater turn on, but does not heat up Electrical diagram of the oil heater

Many breakdowns heating devices you can fix it yourself, which will be very cheap.

The structure of the radiator

It is possible to carry out, which has broken, when its structure is known. It is like this:

Metal sealed container in the form of a battery or accordion. In the middle of it is technical oil. It fills 90% of the tank. The rest is air. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the oil as a result of heating. If the entire internal space of the radiator were filled with oil, then the container would simply burst.
heating element. It is located in the middle of the main part of the radiator. It is always mounted at the bottom of the tank. It heats up the oil. During heating, oil circulates through the radiator. Most manufacturers mount a double heater. It has two helixes. The heating element is fixed so that all its contacts are on the outside of the tank. Can be built-in or removable.
thermal fuse. It is located near the heating element above the heating element. The task of the fuse is to measure the temperature of the oil and, if it becomes critical, or the oil has leaked out (then the case gets very hot), turn off the heating element. He is auxiliary element safety, so it very rarely interferes with the operation of the device. There are two types: bimetallic and wire. The first one is more reliable.
. It can be found at the top of the heater. It is designed to regulate the heating of the radiator. The main part of this element - a bimetallic plate - is in heated air and reacts to changes in its temperature. Above it are usually ventilation holes. The same ones are at the bottom of the casing, which is attached to the main metal container.
Two switches. Each of them is connected by phase, neutral and ground wires that extend from the heating element. A wire from a thermal relay is suitable for each of them. Near the switches there is a light bulb that glows when the heating element is operating.

Oil cooler disassembly

It always starts with this procedure, because electrical elements are under protective cover , which is attached to one end of the heater. Moreover, the manufacturer attached it in such a way that it seems as if he and the body are one.

Major breakdowns

Burnout, contamination of contacts.
Plug failure.
Thermal fuse failure.
Deformation of a bimetallic plate.
TENA breakdown.
Failure of the drop or position sensor.
Oil leak.

Elimination of the most simple breakdowns

These breakdowns are oxidation, loose contacts, plug failure.

After parsing the radiator, you need to check each wire. This is done with a multimeter or tester. First, check the correctness of the plug. To do this, one terminal of the tester is applied to one of its ends. The second terminal of the tester must be attached to the connection of the thermal relay and the wire extending from the plug.

Sometimes there may be an additional connection on the power cable. It is done immediately after the cable enters the case. Further, wires to the thermal relay and the heating element depart from this connection. The second terminal of the tester must be applied to each wire in such a connection. Check both plug outputs.

If the tester did not give a signal when the second terminal of the tester was alternately applied to the end of the input phase and neutral wires, then the plug is faulty. She needs replace.

After that, the tester checks all other wires. One of its terminals is always applied to the plug. The other touch all terminals. The check sequence is as follows:

thermal relay contacts;
thermal fuse contacts;
contacts of the heater operation regulator;
TEN contacts.

During the test, the thermostat must be in a position in which the heating element will work. It is set to a temperature that is higher than the available one.

If there is no tester signal when checking the output contact of the thermal relay, then the contact may be bad or the thermal relay has broken, or rather bimetal plate. First, pay attention to the contact. The wire terminal is pulled out and checked. If it is clean, there is no oxidation or soot, then it is serviceable, and the problem lies in the base of the terminal mount or thermal switch. If the terminal has the listed disadvantages, then it needs to be cleaned. In extreme cases, it is replaced with a new one.

All contacts can be checked visually. If the terminals are clean, without damage, then the problem is not in them. Some of the contacts may be loose. Then they are screwed up or the base into which the terminal is inserted is more flattened.

Read also: Characteristics and manufacture of oil heater

Repair of thermal relay and thermal fuse

This process is bimetal plate replacement or the entire element. The bimetallic plate must be replaced when it is severely deformed, and any position of the relay wheel does not close the contact.

The bimetallic plate is changed like this:

Set the lowest heating temperature.
Remove the regulator knob.
Unscrew the nuts, dismantle the frame.
Remove the bimetallic plate, put a new one in its place.
Assemble the regulator.
Check the correct operation of the plate. For this you need turn the knob of the regulator, changing the position of the plate and setting a certain temperature level. Next, the plate is heated with a hair dryer or fan heater to the set temperature level. If it bends and the contact separates, then it is installed well. Otherwise, the substitution is invalid. It is necessary to solve the complexity by weakening the pressure of the plate on the contact, which corresponds to the lowest heating temperature.

Putting the plate in the right position is a lengthy process. Better buy a new thermostat.

Similar actions are performed with a broken thermal fuse.

Oil Leak Cleanup

Violation of the tightness of the main part of the radiator and oil leakage is the most common problem with these heaters. Oil may leak through an accidental hole or a wall that has rusted. If the second option takes place, then it is better to purchase a different radiator, since corrosion can destroy a larger area than is visible. That's why after a while, oil will flow near the brewed or sealed place.

Holes or small holes, cracks can be:

solder;
brew.

The first option should be avoided. Soldering cannot provide a reliable connection, and with constant heating / cooling, the strong contact of the solder and the metal of the tank will begin to turn into a crack. Therefore, it is better to weld a hole.

Preparing the heater for soldering or welding is the same:

Draining oil from the tank.
Cleaning the problem area from dirt and rust. It can be done sandpaper.
Pouring water into a tank. This will avoid a possible fire (there was oil inside, and its remains were definitely preserved).
Turning the radiator in such a position that water will not flow out of the hole.

Checking the operating mode switch

If the power cord is in order, then proceed to check the heater operating mode switch.

The output of the switch, to which the brown wire is connected, is common and the supply voltage is applied to it. To test the switch, you need to set it to position III, in which the common output must be connected to the other two outputs. Now it is enough to measure the resistance between the common output and the other two, it should be equal to zero. If the switch is set to position II, then the middle contact will remain connected to only one of the other two. In position I, only with not yet tested contact. In the zero position, no contact should be connected to the other. If the switch is in order, then you need to look for the cause of the heater failure elsewhere.

Checking the operation of a bimetallic thermostat

A bimetallic thermostat is installed next to the mode switch. Its principle of operation is based on the properties of different metals, to increase or decrease in size with temperature changes in different ways. If you connect two plates of different metals into one, then when the temperature changes, the resulting plastic will begin to bend. And if an electrical contact is established on such a plate, then due to the bending of the plate it will be possible to control the temperature of switching on or off electrical appliances depending on the temperature. environment. WITH useful property bimetallic plates are faced daily by each of us. For example, an electric kettle turns off a bimetallic plate heated by the steam of boiled water.

To check the health of the thermostat, just touch the multimeter probes to its terminals and turn the knob from lock to lock in any direction. In almost the entire range of rotation, the resistance of the temperature controller should be equal to zero. If this is not the case, then it is usually enough to clean the contacts that are clearly visible from the side with fine sandpaper.

If you need to remove the thermostat, for example, for replacement or repair, you must first remove the adjusting knob. It is held on the axis by a tight fit. To remove the handle, gently pry it on both sides with flat-bladed screwdrivers. The handle with a little effort will be removed from the axis.

There are two screws under the handle. It is enough to unscrew them and the thermostat mechanism will be released.

Checking the health of the heating elements

It's time to check the heating elements connected to the switch and thermostat using a hinged six-pin connector.

As it turned out, the mikathermic heating element is composite and consists of two. One has a resistance of 60 ohms, the second 100 ohms. To check the heating element, it is enough to measure the resistance between red, blue and brown wires. The test showed the serviceability of the mikathermic heater.

Checking the vertical position sensor

The position sensor is a weight attached to the lever with a balancing spring hooked to the opposite end of the lever. When the heater is in a vertical position, the weight stretches the spring and presses against the built-in microswitch. The supply voltage is supplied to the heating elements. If the heater is tilted on its side, then the force of gravity will reduce the effect on the spring, the spring will move the lever away from the microswitch, the circuit will break, and the current will stop flowing to the heating elements.

There are two wires coming from the position sensor, white and brown. To check, it is enough to measure the resistance between them with a multimeter. When the heater is in a vertical position, the resistance of the position sensor should be zero. When tilted - infinity. The position sensor was correct.

Checking the health of the thermal fuse

It remains to check the thermal fuses connected in series, of which there were three and all of them were installed behind the micrometric heater plate. A pair of wires came from the thermal fuses white color on a six-pin connector, on the same as the wires from the mikathermic heater. A dial with a multimeter showed an open in the thermal fuse circuit. It became clear that one of the thermal fuses was faulty.

Further disassembly of the heater was required. To do this, I had to remove the second side cover and the protective grid, which is removed after being released from the screws by shifting to the side. Access to check two self-healing thermal fuses has opened.

To check the thermal fuses, with one end of the multimeter probe, you need to touch the white wire that fits the six-pin connector, and with the second probe, piercing the insulation with a needle pressed against it, touch the wire connecting the thermal fuses. The test showed the serviceability of the fuses available for testing. All elements have been checked, except for the thermal fuse behind the mikathermic heating element. So he is wrong.

I had to remove the heating element, for which it was enough to unscrew the four screws in the corners and take it aside. The next view opens.

The thermal fuse was located in a fiberglass tube and was attached to the heater body with a screw using a metal clamp.

As it turned out, there was a self-restoring thermal fuse SF192E in the tube, designed for a response temperature of 133 ° C and a load current of up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. An additional check with a multimeter confirmed the malfunction of the thermal fuse.

The thermal fuse was connected to the wires by crimping with a brass strip. Using an awl, the end of the strip on the side of the thermal fuse was bent, the thermal fuse was removed and a similar one, type G4A00, was pressed in its place, designed for a response temperature of 128 ° C and a load current of up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. The operating temperature of the installed thermal fuse is 5 degrees lower than the failed one. But taking into account the maximum heating of the heater body of only 65 ° C, such a replacement will not affect the protective functions and performance of the heater.

Before assembling the heater, all connectors were connected to each other, the multimeter probes were connected to the pins of the mains plug, and all modes of operation of the heater were checked. The resistance in the mode switch position 0 was infinite, in position I it was 156 ohms, in position II -100 ohms and in position III - 56 ohms, which indicated that the heater was in full working order.

After assembly, the heater was connected to the network and confirmed its performance. The repair of the heater is over and only traces of the tool left on the plastic plugs remind of its malfunction.

Features of heater repair
with ceramic heating elements

They brought me for repair, seemingly an ordinary fan heater, such as Timberk TFH T15DDL, due to a decrease in heating efficiency.

When the heater was connected to the mains, it was found that the fan weakly drove air, which was slightly warm. The heating mode switch and temperature control functioned normally. I had to open the heater to find the problem. The first step was to remove the dust that had accumulated in the radiator of the heating elements. The fan began to blow stronger, but the air heating remained weak.

Measuring the voltage at the terminals of the heating elements showed a value of 220 V, which indicated that the electrical circuit was in good condition. The value of the measured current consumption of the fan heater in the maximum heating mode was 1.1 A instead of the prescribed 8 A, which indicated a malfunction of the heating elements.

This is the first time I have encountered such a heating element. It turned out that in this fan heater the heating element consists of 14 ceramic-metal plates sandwiched between eight aluminum radiators. This entire package is inserted into a rectangular frame made of heat-resistant plastic and is held in place by four latches. Aluminum radiators perform several tasks at once - they hold ceramic heaters, remove heat from them and supply voltage to the ceramic-metal plates.

Attention, due to the fact that the supply voltage is supplied through aluminum radiator, touching it with the plug of the heater plugged into the mains socket is life threatening!

For better retraction heat and electrical contact the sides of the ceramic-metal plates, pressed against the radiator, are covered with electrically thermally conductive paste.

Heating metal-ceramic plates are radioelements called posistors. The principle of operation of the posistor is that its resistance depends on the temperature of its heating. The more the posistor heats up, the higher its resistance, and according to Ohm's Law, less current will flow, and as a result, the heater will generate less heat.

Due to this property, according to the developers of ceramic-metal heating elements, when the temperature reaches 300 ° C, a balance sets in, the resistance of the posistor increases to such a value that the temperature no longer increases. This ensures the safe continuation of the operation of the fan heater, even when the fan blowing air is broken and does not rotate or is clogged with dust.

Measuring the resistance of the heater sections with a multimeter showed a resistance of about 1000 ohms, instead of the proper 112 ohms. Surprisingly, it turned out that the resistance does not correspond to all metal-ceramic plates. This could happen only in case of overheating of the ceramic-metal plates, which, based on the principle of their operation, should not happen. This leads to the conclusion that the ceramic heaters were installed of inadequate quality and that they will need to be replaced in order to restore the fan heater to full operation.

To repair a fan heater, you can buy a ready-made heating block, a ceramic heater of the MZFR-J-1800W-220V type, designed for repairing fan heaters. His appearance, dimensions and the connection diagram are shown above in the photo. The MZFR-J-1800W-220V costs about $10.

No matter how high-quality the electric heater is, sooner or later it starts to heat poorly or stops working altogether. Electric heaters are not complex devices and they very rarely break after purchase during the warranty period.

Let me tell you straight away simpler design electric heater, the less often it will break down and it will be easier to find and fix the problem.

I don't recommend on my own. repair oil radiators, because inside it is a special coolant - transformer oil. In order to disassemble it, you will first have to drain and then refill the transformer oil, and this is a very troublesome and time-consuming task. If from oil cooler the oil just started to leak a little, then I recommend soldering the place of the leak with your own hands or brewing it neatly with semi-automatic welding. In such cases, it is useless to use various sealants or glue to fix the leak.

Always unplug the heater from the socket- before starting work on disassembling or dialing the device components with a multimeter.

In order to quickly and efficiently find and fix a malfunction, you need to know the device of the electrical appliance, as well as how to check all its components for serviceability. For convenience, further I will immediately talk about the device of the electric heater, and then about checking and repairing all components in order.

How does an electric heater work?

Practically heaters are arranged similarly. Both simpler and more complex models are available. We will consider the device most difficult option. In more simple models the thermal fuse and tilt sensor may be missing in the circuit.

Let's consider a more simplified version with a single-key switch and one light bulb. Often, heaters are equipped with a two-key switch and several indicator lights, the operation scheme will be similar, with the only difference being that instead of one key there will be two, and one heating element will be, as it were, two in one case. Convection versions often have an ingress protection sensor built in, but it turns on and off the power supply in the same way as a position sensor.

Any modern electric heater consists of from a plug with a power cable, which, through a thermostat and a switch, is connected to the heating element installed in the housing - Teng. Very often, the heating element has not 2, but 3 contacts for connection. The first power wire is connected to one, and from the other from the socket, two other wires connected from a two-gang switch, which allows you to turn on either one spiral or two at once. full power.

There may be a thermal fuse in the circuit which automatically turns off the device for overheat protection. A tilt sensor can also be installed, which opens the circuit when the heater is tilted above the permissible angle. In expensive convection models, other sensors are also installed. For example, protection against ingress of objects inside the device.

In some models there may be a fuse for protection against overload currents or short circuits, which operates in emergency situations.

Step-by-step instructions for repairing an electric heater

First thing, Before proceeding with the repair with your own hands, unplug the heater from the outlet.
We unscrew the bolts or self-tapping screws and take out the control panel with a switch and a thermostat or thermostat.
If the device does not work at all and the bulbs do not light up, then we check the presence of 220 volts on the cores of the cable connected to the outlet by. We replace the defective cable or plug with a new one. Just be careful- probably stopped working electric outlet, and the heater will be fully operational.
Further on the device unplugged from the socket check the serviceability of all switch keys. In the on position, there should be a short circuit on the contacts, and in the off position, the resistance should be infinitely large (open circuit).
At the next stage of repair check the thermostat. The multimeter should show zero (short circuit) or small resistance on the contacts.
If the fix is still not found, then you will have to completely disassemble the electric heater with your own hands in order to get to its other components.
Sometimes the cause of a malfunction can be quite simple.- this is a poor or missing contact at the junction of wires with terminals. Reliability is checked by visual inspection, but it is better to use a multimeter for this purpose.
Followed by check the integrity of the heating element or heating element, as a rule, consisting of two circuits. To connect it, one common wire and two outgoing from the two-gang switch are used. To check, set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. For example, in my personal heater, one heating element shows a resistance of 50 ohms, and the other 100 ohms. Very often, the heater stops heating at full power due to the failure of one of the heater circuits, which cannot be repaired and is replaced with a new one similar in characteristics.
Very often the cause of the heater failure is the failure of the thermal fuse., which can be installed several in the case. If at least one breaks, all the heating elements will stop working. The thermal fuse is checked simply (in the picture it is indicated as TP) - there must be zero resistance or short circuit between its contacts. If the device has more than one thermal fuse, then we simply remove the faulty one and connect the wires to each other, not forgetting to use heat-resistant materials for insulation. Please note that sometimes the thermal fuses may be all good, and the reason for their operation may be overheating of the convection heater due to clogged filters or air exchange holes.
The next step is to check the position sensor., consisting of a weight, which, when the device is tilted, presses the microswitch and opens the circuit. In a vertical position, there should be zero resistance or short circuit between the contacts.
In fan heaters and some other types of electric heaters, an additional fan is installed, if it starts to make a lot of noise during operation or does not work at all, then read our

Oil electric heaters have been used for a long time and have proven themselves as good remedy space heating, if central heating not enough. Compared to convectors, oil coolers have a high efficiency, as they give off heat for a long time after they are turned off. The article discusses one of the most common breakdowns of oil coolers and a way to eliminate it.

Regardless of the manufacturer, almost all oil coolers have a similar structure and the same components used in both expensive and cheap models.

Before you is one of the representatives of the middle class.

The problem with this heater is that it does not heat in any of the three positions of the mode switch. In addition to the oil heater in the radiator, the device has a side fan heater that works without problems.

You need to start repairing the oil heater by removing the front panel on which the controls are located. To do this, you will need a straight or Phillips screwdriver (depending on the model of the device).

There are three on this heater. One above and two below.

We find all the screws that secure this panel and unscrew them.

For the convenience of removing the lower ones, you can put the device with the panel up.

When the screws are removed and lie in the box, carefully remove the cover from the radiator. At the same time, the wires inside and other elements can interfere with this, so you need to do this slowly, removing obstacles.

The cover is removed, and heating elements and other elements of the circuit appear in front of you.

Here are the main ones

thermostat,

package switch,

protective thermocouple.

Outwardly, everything looks fine. The wires are in good condition, the nodes are not damaged. You will have to check each element individually.

Checking the heating elements of the oil heater

To check, you need a device capable of determining the integrity electrical circuit. Any "dialing", multimeter or voltage indicator.

But before you take measurements, you need to remove one end of the wire.

This is the neutral wire "common" for two heaters. This is necessary so that the circuit does not show through the circuit, this can happen even with a non-working heating element.

We put one end of the dialing on the "common" wire, and the second alternately, first on one, then on the other end of the heater.

With serviceable elements, both should “ring”. In this case, both heating elements are working.

Check the thermostat

With open contacts, it did not show the circuit, which means that measurement can be done without removing the terminals with wires from it. Turning the regulator clockwise, you will hear a click and the contact, both visually and according to the readings of the measuring device, is closed.

And again, the cause of the breakdown was not found.

The next step is to check the thermal protection element

Finding it was not easy, as it was hidden in an insulating tube.

We unscrew its fastening and tighten the tube. It works like a fuse, it works (breaking the circuit) when the temperature standards are exceeded and when it cools down, it returns to its original state.

Here the same call comes to the rescue. We just connect its ends on both sides. The presence of a circuit indicates the health of the thermoelement. Again, no damage was found.

Packet switch test

Upon closer inspection, you can see that its plastic body is slightly deformed. And this happened, most likely due to excessive heating of the contacts.

We parse it.

To do this, use a small screwdriver to open its mount.

After that, we remove top cover. Under it, such contacts are found.

It is immediately obvious that they are burnt, and that's all.

We take a needle file or extreme case nail file and clean them. There is only one movable contact, and it has this shape.

To remove it, you just need to pull it towards you. This will release the switch handle. We clean the movable contact of the switch over the entire surface and insert it into the fixed ones.

It is not easy to do this, but it is possible. Now cover it with a lid and try to put it in its original place. In this case, the handle on the front panel must be compared with the package switch shaft so that the strip on it indicates some switch position.

We clamp the mount and try to switch.

If everything works without problems, we lay the wires and bundle them.

We put on all the removed terminals and put the heater on the wheels. Without closing the lid, carefully plug it into the network. The appliance must be warm. In our case, this is what happens.

Disconnect from the mains and fasten the cover with screws. We turn it on again and check the work in all positions.

Repair of the oil cooler showed that the cause of the failure was burnt contacts of the package stage switch. It is unfortunate, but this breakdown is one of the most frequent in any heating devices. The reason is switching under high current and poor-quality manufacturing of the assembly contacts.

Do-it-yourself repairs are quite real. Many owners successfully restore the performance of these heat sources without resorting to the services of craftsmen.

When starting to repair any electrical appliance, you need to know two things - and how it works. oil heater comprises:

metal case;
heating element (heating element);
control unit;
connecting wires.

Oil is poured into the heater body, which, when turned on, is heated by the heating element. Heat is transferred to the walls of the housing, and from them to the heated room. When a certain temperature is reached, the control unit is triggered and the heating stops. The cycle repeats as long as the heater is connected to the mains. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained in the heated room.

Main malfunctions

There are not so many reasons why an oil heater does not work. Conventionally, they can be divided into two parts - electrical and mechanical. Failure in work electrical equipment most often it falls on the heating element and control communications - a thermal relay, a switch, thermal fuses. There may be a problem in the wiring, but this happens extremely rarely.

TO mechanical damages include various holes in the body, as well as the formation of shells on it, through which oil flows. As a rule, these are the fruits of corrosion activity. Determination of the type of malfunction great work does not represent. Mechanical failures are always associated with the presence of oil stains under the heater. All other faults are related to the electrical part.

Workplace preparation

To fix the heater, you first need to create conditions for this. One of the main prerequisites for a successful repair will be preparation for it. First of all, you need to choose a place where you will disassemble the heater. It should be spacious enough and well lit. A garage or a separate room is best suited for this.

Then the tool and accessories are prepared. Since the device of the heater does not present any complexity, then the tool will be the most common. A set of screwdrivers, pliers and side cutters, a small hammer and an awl - this will be enough for repairs. Before repairing, you must have a soldering iron, a tester, WD-40 liquid, grease (Graphite or Litol-24) and a little alcohol to wipe the contacts at hand. Be sure to have a clean rag. If the cause of the breakdown is determined in advance, then spare parts are needed to replace the failed parts.

Let's start repairing

The question of how to repair an oil heater with your own hands arises for everyone when the device stops working. Meanwhile, there is absolutely no difficulty in this matter. First of all, it is necessary to disassemble in order to get to the repair object. To do this, you need to detach the control panel from the case. As a rule, it is fastened with snaps. But there is another kind of fastening. For example, screws or staples.

Therefore, you must first carefully inspect the heater to determine how the panel is attached. Then gently, without much effort, remove it. Disassembly should be done without brute force as all fasteners are made of plastic.

Before starting the repair, it is necessary to de-energize the heater.

Checking the power cord and switch. With this, it is necessary to begin work on restoring the performance of the oil heater. The fact is that during long-term operation at the junctions, the wires usually burn out, and the contact is broken. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the wire and strip it, and at the same time the place of connection. After that, reassemble everything. The contact has been restored. The tester checks to see if this is true. At the same time, you need to check the power cord for a broken wire. Rarely, but such a malfunction occurs. This is done simply, using the same tester.

Next stage - inspection of all contact connections in the control unit. It is necessary to very carefully inspect each contact for burning, oxidation and loose fastening. A screwdriver, fine-grained sandpaper and cotton wool soaked in alcohol will be enough for repairs. It is possible that somewhere you will need a soldering iron to solder the broken wire.

It may happen that there is thermal relay malfunction, or temperature controller. In this case, you need to carefully remove it and disassemble it. After disassembly, the bimetallic plate that is inside is removed and replaced with a new one. The thing is that there can be no more malfunctions there. After replacing the plate, the relay will restore its potential.

Thermal fuse repair will consist in checking their performance and replacing, if necessary, with serviceable ones. Verification is a simple dialing by a tester. There can be several thermal fuses, or they are also called thermostats. We check each one.

Left check the condition of the heaters. To do this, it is enough to measure their resistance with a tester. It must be less than 1 kOhm. One connection checks for an open circuit. Thus, if the tester shows a lot of resistance or shows nothing at all, then it's time to change the heating element.

On this, the check of the electrical part of the heater can be considered completed. Let's move on to mechanical problems.

Of these, only one is relevant - oil leak. In this case, the heater will have to be disassembled to drain the remaining oil inside. If there is damage to the hull, it is important to determine exactly where it happened. Then you need to carefully clean the found place with a sandpaper. This is done to determine the repair method. If it turns out that the hole is small, and there are no signs of corrosion around, then one of the repair options will be to screw a self-tapping screw or a suitable screw diameter into the hole. Another option would be to use a special sealant, which is called " cold welding". Before use, it is kneaded in the hands to the state of plasticine.

A rolled bead of sealant is applied to the hole and carefully leveled on the surface. After 15-20 minutes, it hardens so much that you can use the heater. It will be somewhat more difficult to eliminate a hole that has formed from rust. In this case, cleaning will be required. sandpaper all rusty spots to "living" metal. Then again you need to carefully examine and evaluate the size of the hole. If it is not very large, then it can be soldered. If the hole is large, then welding must be used here, that is, put a patch on and scald it. In this case, the repair of the oil heater will be more serious and will require not only a special tool, but also skills.

The body of the heater is soldered with brass solder or its substitute. Just not tin. Welding is best done semi-automatically. That is, a wire, not an electrode.

As you can see, the repair of oil heaters, and even with their own hands, is within the power of anyone who is familiar with the basics of electrical engineering and plumbing. Therefore, before throwing away the heater, you need to carefully inspect it. If the damage is minor, it will be much cheaper to repair than to buy a new one..