Electric oil heaters are common and highly reliable, but sometimes they are simple fixtures are out of order. In a situation where the heater does not turn on or heats poorly, you need to check for a warranty card. With a valid warranty, it should be taken to a service center. But it often happens that there is no such possibility, and repair oil heater will have to do it by hand. In this case, you need to consider possible reasons breakdowns and find out how to fix them.
Oil cooler device
Different models of heaters may have a different number of heating elements, thermostats and switching devices for connection and connection. They also have forced airflow systems to enhance convection and increase heat transfer.
The heating elements are housed in an oil-filled, sealed housing with ribs, covered with a durable dielectric powder coating. The switches are attached to the heater from the outside. All connections of heating devices and external control elements are connected through a hermetic coupling.
The oil heater circuit is designed as follows: a power cable with a plug is connected through switches and a thermal fuse to the heating elements. At the same time, the thermal fuse provides a break in the supply circuit in case of emergency overheating of the device. The latest models of oil heaters are also equipped with a position sensor that turns off the device in case of a fall or a critical deviation from the working condition.
How to disassemble an oil heater
If it is decided to fix the problem with your own hands, then the heater should be disassembled from the side where the power cord is connected. In most cases, it fits into the cover that covers the control panel and is secured with external screws. By unscrewing them and dismantling the cover of the control panel, you can get access to all safety and switching devices.
This completes the analysis of the heater, since it is highly undesirable to violate the tightness of the case. In 90% of cases, any malfunction is a failure of control systems or a break in contacts outside the sealed housing.
Types of faults and their elimination
Typical heater malfunctions are as follows. When the device is connected to the network, automatic protection is activated on the switchboard. This is a sign of a short circuit. Repair of oil heaters in this case is carried out by determining the location of the short circuit and eliminating the cause of the short circuit. If the device does not heat up or heats up weakly, there can be many reasons. You can find out why the device does not work by calling the circuit and determining the faulty element.
Traces of oil on the body and floor will indicate a leak. It is necessary to find the place of the leak and restore the integrity of the case. To fix the heater, you will need tools, but they are quite common and are likely to be found in any home.
It is necessary to consider in more detail each of the possible breakdowns.
Oil Leak Cleanup
If an oil leak is found on the body of the device, you need to find the place of the leak, weld it or solder it. In the latter case, silver solder should be used; it is impossible to solder with simple tin. Leaking oil will not allow you to properly solder the leak, which means that you will have to drain the oil and only then carry out soldering using a burner. Then you should check the tightness of the soldering place by filling the heater with water. After making sure that the liquid does not leak at the leak, it must be drained and the heater dried by heating.
After all the water has evaporated, you can pour oil into the heater. Before pouring, the substance should be heated to 90°C. In case of a significant leak, the entire volume must be changed, if possible using transformer oil. When filling the heater, it is necessary to leave room for thermal expansion. It is strictly forbidden to add another oil, because the brand of the original product is unknown, you can accidentally mix mineral with synthetic. The entire volume of oil must be replaced.
extraneous noise
Noises in the heater can be both periodic and constant. The source of noise after switching on can be water that got into the oil in the form of steam during assembly due to high humidity in the workshop. When heated, the water changes from a liquid state to a gaseous state and produces a crackle.
Another cause of noise when turned on can be bursting air bubbles. This happens when the heater is moved and the oil is agitated in it. After warming up the device, these noises disappear and do not pose a danger to further operation.
Constant crackling is the cause of a malfunction of the electrical part of the heater. It should be found and eliminated, since such a device cannot be operated.
Also, the heater may crackle when the parts expand linearly, the dimensions of which change when heated. This is also not dangerous, in addition, the sounds disappear when warmed up.
Electrician
If oil radiator stopped working, most likely this is due to problems and malfunctions of the electrical part. The check should begin with the dismantling of the cover covering the electrical circuit of the heater. After that, using a tester, you need to check the serviceability of the power cord. The faulty element is found by alternately ringing. Then you should put the tester into the resistance measurement mode and check the condition of the conductors. If the resistance of at least one conductor differs from zero, the plug or wire is replaced.
It will not be possible to repair the electrical part, except for the cord, at home. It is necessary to remember, and it is better to photograph the order of connecting the terminals, and then dismantle the faulty sensor. In the store you need to purchase the same one and install it in place of the old one.
Bimetal plate
The bimetallic thermostat is located next to the heater control keys. It is a rotating handle connected to a moving contact and a bimetallic plate. It consists of two different metals and is able to change its linear dimensions depending on the temperature, and when the ends are rigidly fixed, it can bend and close the contact.
The health of the bimetallic thermostat is checked by connecting it to the tester. With a gradual turn of the heater temperature control knob, the resistance is measured at the relay outputs. The resistance must be equal to 0 at all positions of the regulator. Otherwise, you need to wipe the contacts with alcohol or clean sandpaper(zero). If the manipulations did not lead to normal operation of the regulator, it should be replaced.
Thermal relay
The number of these elements depends on the connection scheme of the heating elements and the set of heater modes. In most cases, the device has 3 operating modes and 3 self-restoring thermal fuses, while 2 heating elements of different power are installed.
The thermal fuses are located in fiberglass protective tubes. By checking the resistance of each of them, you can determine the health of the elements. If there is a malfunction, the thermostat must be replaced. After repair, check the resistance of the circuit in each mode of operation of the heater.
Breakdown of the heating element
TEN (tubular electric heater) for an oil heater consists of a shell - a tubular metal case, a nichrome spiral and quartz sand, which isolates the spiral from the walls of the tube. At both ends, the tube is sealed with bushings through which the outputs of the heating coil are connected. They do not have polarity and are connected to the network arbitrarily.
Most frequent malfunction in a heating element, this is a break in the spiral heating element (nichrome filament). To check, it is necessary to touch the tester probes to the terminals of the heating element in the resistance measurement mode. When 1 appears on the multimeter display (resistance is equal to infinity), a thread break is diagnosed.
If it turned out that the heating element for the oil heater burned out, then repairs would be required, which would be very difficult. This is a search for heating element desired configuration and power, its extrusion from the body with the accompanying oil drain, replacement of the heating element, oil filling, sealing, etc. It is easier to buy another heater, since the repair will result in almost the same amount.
Drop or position sensor
The fall or vertical position sensor of the oil heater is a system of a weight and a spring-loaded arm in balance. When the heater is in a vertical position, the weight acts on the lever, and the lever acts on the limit switch that closes the network. When the position of the oil heater is changed, the balance of the system is disturbed, and the switch breaks the contact.
There are 2 wires coming from the position sensor. By measuring the resistance of the sensor in different positions, determine its serviceability. If the oil heater is in a vertical position, the resistance at the ends of the sensor should be zero. In an inclined state, the resistance should be equal to infinity. If the measurements are abnormal, then the sensor should be replaced.
Checking the operating mode switch
If the power cord is in order, then proceed to check the heater operating mode switch.
The output of the switch, to which the brown wire is connected, is common and the supply voltage is applied to it. To test the switch, you need to set it to position III, in which the common output must be connected to the other two outputs. Now it is enough to measure the resistance between the common output and the other two, it should be equal to zero. If the switch is set to position II, then the middle contact will remain connected to only one of the other two. In position I, only with not yet tested contact. In the zero position, no contact should be connected to the other. If the switch is in order, then you need to look for the cause of the heater failure elsewhere.
Checking the operation of a bimetallic thermostat
A bimetallic thermostat is installed next to the mode switch. Its principle of operation is based on the properties of different metals, to increase or decrease in size with temperature changes in different ways. If you connect two plates of different metals into one, then when the temperature changes, the resulting plastic will begin to bend. And if an electrical contact is established on such a plate, then due to the bending of the plate it will be possible to control the temperature of switching on or off electrical appliances depending on the temperature. environment. WITH useful property bimetallic plates are faced daily by each of us. For example, an electric kettle turns off a bimetallic plate heated by the steam of boiled water.
To check the health of the thermostat, just touch the multimeter probes to its terminals and turn the knob from lock to lock in any direction. In almost the entire range of rotation, the resistance of the temperature controller should be equal to zero. If this is not the case, then it is usually enough to clean the contacts that are clearly visible from the side with fine sandpaper.
If you need to remove the thermostat, for example, for replacement or repair, you must first remove the adjusting knob. It is held on the axis due to a tight fit. To remove the handle, gently pry it on both sides with flat-bladed screwdrivers. The handle with a little effort will be removed from the axis.
There are two screws under the handle. It is enough to unscrew them and the thermostat mechanism will be released.
Checking the health of the heating elements
It's time to check the heating elements connected to the switch and thermostat using a hinged six-pin connector.
As it turned out, the mikathermic heating element is composite and consists of two. One has a resistance of 60 ohms, the second 100 ohms. To check the heating element, it is enough to measure the resistance between red, blue and brown wires. The check showed the serviceability of the mikathermic heater.
Checking the vertical position sensor
The position sensor is a weight attached to the lever with a balancing spring hooked to the opposite end of the lever. When the heater is in a vertical position, the weight stretches the spring and presses against the built-in microswitch. The supply voltage is supplied to the heating elements. If the heater is tilted on its side, then the force of gravity will reduce the effect on the spring, the spring will move the lever away from the microswitch, the circuit will break, and the current will stop flowing to the heating elements.
There are two wires coming from the position sensor, white and brown. To check, it is enough to measure the resistance between them with a multimeter. When the heater is in a vertical position, the resistance of the position sensor should be zero. When tilted - infinity. The position sensor was correct.
Checking the health of the thermal fuse
It remains to check the thermal fuses connected in series, of which there were three and all of them were installed behind the micrometric heater plate. A pair of wires came from the thermal fuses white color on a six-pin connector, on the same as the wires from the mikathermic heater. A dial with a multimeter showed an open in the thermal fuse circuit. It became clear that one of the thermal fuses was faulty.
Further disassembly of the heater was required. To do this, I had to remove the second side cover and the protective grid, which is removed after being released from the screws by shifting to the side. Access to check two self-healing thermal fuses has opened.
To check the thermal fuses, with one end of the multimeter probe, you need to touch the white wire that fits the six-pin connector, and with the second probe, piercing the insulation with a needle pressed against it, touch the wire connecting the thermal fuses. The test showed the serviceability of the fuses available for testing. All elements have been checked, except for the thermal fuse behind the mikathermic heating element. So he is wrong.
I had to remove the heating element, for which it was enough to unscrew the four screws in the corners and take it aside. The next view opens.
The thermal fuse was located in a fiberglass tube and was attached to the heater body with a screw using a metal clamp.
As it turned out, there was a self-restoring thermal fuse SF192E in the tube, designed for a response temperature of 133 ° C and a load current of up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. An additional check with a multimeter confirmed the malfunction of the thermal fuse.
The thermal fuse was connected to the wires by crimping with a brass strip. Using an awl, the end of the strip on the side of the thermal fuse was bent, the thermal fuse was removed and a similar one, type G4A00, was pressed in its place, designed for a response temperature of 128 ° C and a load current of up to 10 A at a voltage of up to 250 V. The operating temperature of the installed thermal fuse is 5 degrees lower than the failed one. But taking into account the maximum heating of the heater body of only 65 ° C, such a replacement will not affect the protective functions and performance of the heater.
Before assembling the heater, all connectors were connected to each other, the multimeter probes were connected to the pins of the mains plug, and all modes of operation of the heater were checked. The resistance in the mode switch position 0 was infinite, in position I it was 156 ohms, in position II -100 ohms and in position III - 56 ohms, which indicated that the heater was in full working order.
After assembly, the heater was connected to the network and confirmed its performance. The repair of the heater is over and only traces of the tool left on the plastic plugs remind of its malfunction.
Features of heater repair
with ceramic heating elements
They brought me for repair, seemingly an ordinary fan heater, such as Timberk TFH T15DDL, due to a decrease in heating efficiency.
When the heater was connected to the mains, it was found that the fan weakly drove air, which was slightly warm. The heating mode switch and temperature control functioned normally. I had to open the heater to find the problem. The first step was to remove the dust that had accumulated in the radiator of the heating elements. The fan began to blow stronger, but the air heating remained weak.
Measuring the voltage at the terminals of the heating elements showed a value of 220 V, which indicated that the electrical circuit. The value of the measured current consumption of the fan heater in the maximum heating mode was 1.1 A instead of the prescribed 8 A, which indicated a malfunction of the heating elements.
This is the first time I have encountered such a heating element. It turned out that in this fan heater the heating element consists of 14 ceramic-metal plates sandwiched between eight aluminum radiators. This entire package is inserted into a rectangular frame made of heat-resistant plastic and is held in place by four latches. Aluminum radiators perform several tasks at once - they hold ceramic heaters, remove heat from them and supply voltage to the ceramic-metal plates.
Attention, due to the fact that the supply voltage is supplied through aluminum radiator, touching it with the plug of the heater plugged into the mains socket is life threatening!
For better retraction heat and electrical contact the sides of the ceramic-metal plates, pressed against the radiator, are covered with electrically thermally conductive paste.
Heating metal-ceramic plates are radioelements called posistors. The principle of operation of the posistor is that its resistance depends on the temperature of its heating. The more the posistor heats up, the higher its resistance, and according to Ohm's Law, less current will flow, and as a result, the heater will generate less heat.
Due to this property, according to the developers of ceramic-metal heating elements, when the temperature reaches 300 ° C, a balance sets in, the resistance of the posistor increases to such a value that the temperature no longer increases. This ensures the safe continuation of the operation of the fan heater, even when the fan blowing air is broken and does not rotate or is clogged with dust.
Measuring the resistance of the heater sections with a multimeter showed a resistance of about 1000 ohms, instead of the proper 112 ohms. Surprisingly, it turned out that the resistance does not correspond to all metal-ceramic plates. This could happen only in case of overheating of the ceramic-metal plates, which, based on the principle of their operation, should not happen. This leads to the conclusion that the ceramic heaters were installed of inadequate quality and that they will need to be replaced in order to restore the fan heater to full operation.
To repair a fan heater, you can buy a ready-made heating block, a ceramic heater of the MZFR-J-1800W-220V type, designed for repairing fan heaters. His appearance, dimensions and the connection diagram are shown above in the photo. The MZFR-J-1800W-220V costs about $10.
Very often heaters break down at the most inopportune moment. A properly working device suddenly stops turning on. Common situation? Naturally, we do not know why this is happening, and we want to quickly find a way out of this situation. You can, of course, immediately buy a new heater, but you can also repair the old one.
Before embarking on repairs, prepare everything you need:
- Be sure to take a screwdriver and an ohmmeter.
- You will also need a bimetallic plate, some rags, ink, alcohol and a needle file.
- Don't forget sandpaper.
Contact violation
What could be the cause of the breakdown if your heater suddenly stopped turning on and heating up? Most often, there was a violation of contact in the area of \u200b\u200bthe plug. Damage to the wire cores or loosening of their attachment to the terminals may also well be the causes of a malfunction of the device. Naturally, we forget how carelessly the appliance was handled, because you cannot pull the heater by the cord to move it to another place in the room. There is a special handle for moving the device.
To determine if the plug and cord are damaged, unscrew the nuts securing the panel. Then very carefully remove the washers. First remove the spring washers, and only then the round ones. Put the washers in a separate box so that they are not lost. After that, remove the cover from the device and check all connections.
An ohmmeter is used to test the cable. This device checks the voltage in the cable. Then we check whether the contact screws are well tightened, fixing the ends of the cores in the power cable. If during the check you find carbon deposits on the contacts, then you need to clean them well using sandpaper. After all repair work, we attach the cord back to the control unit and fix the cover.
Do not think to immediately plug the appliance into the socket. Before connecting it to electrical network a check is made of all parts of the heater that conduct current. Such a check is done using the ohmmeter already familiar to us. When everything is checked, you can safely plug the device into the outlet for verification.
Pay attention to the operation of the device. Does it turn off when it reaches the required heating temperature? If it does not turn off, then immediately disconnect the oil heater from the mains. The fact is that when excessively heated, oil heaters can sometimes explode.
Thermostat malfunction
In case of malfunctions of the thermostat, it is necessary to remove the cover of the control unit again. Then you need to unscrew the nut from the screw. The screw head can be fixed using a screwdriver and then the washer can be removed. After that, very carefully raise the anchor, clean and wipe the thermostat contacts with alcohol. Having done all the work, we carefully assemble the thermostat and check our oil heater again.
Breakage of the bimetallic plate
Very often, a bimetallic plate breaks in an oil heater, and the device stops working. For repair, first of all, we disassemble the thermostat. Then we set the minimum heating using the handle of the device, and remove it from the head of the adjusting screw. Remember to mark the location of this element with ink before doing the above steps.
The fixed contact is created by a screw and a nut. They must be removed to get the bimetallic plate. You can remove the magnet by removing part of the long rod of the sensor. After all the work, we replace the plate and assemble the control unit.
If none of the elements listed above helped, then you need to seek help from qualified specialists.
Oil-filled electrical appliances - units in demand in everyday life with long term operation. They are manufactured in an industrial environment using modern technologies. But such devices are not always resistant to possible emergency situations, so sometimes they still fail. In some cases, you can repair oil radiators with your own hands, significantly saving the family budget.
An oil heater is a reliable and safe technique that rarely breaks down.
The structure of the heater
Before proceeding with the repair of any electrical appliances, it is important to study the design of the product and the principles of its operation. After reading this information, it will not be difficult to disassemble the oil cooler . The components of the heating equipment are:
- metal body;
- heating element (TEN);
- Control block;
- connecting wires.
In the case of the device there is oil, the heating of which is carried out after the heating element is turned on. During operation, the walls of the radiator heat up, and from them the whole room. When certain temperatures are reached, the control unit is triggered, as a result of which the heating element is turned off. These cycles are repeated as long as the product is connected to a power source. As a result, a constant temperature is maintained.
How an oil heater works and how it can be repaired, see this video:
Main problems and their solution
To troubleshoot a radiator, you need to follow certain rules and have certain skills. It should be noted that in the event of a breakdown of any of the elements of the device, it is necessary to stop its operation until the repair work is completed.
Oil heater can be repaired by yourself
It is important to understand that it is not possible to restore the operability of the bulk of the heater components at home, or this requires professional knowledge and experience. Experimenting with broken electrical components is undesirable, because such manipulations are fraught with consequences in the form of injuries, explosions and fires. That is why, in the absence necessary training it is best to replace the element that has become unusable. During the repair, you need to follow certain recommendations:
Before disassembling the heater, be sure to disconnect it from the power source - be sure to unplug the unit from the outlet;
- cool the product to room temperature;
- it is forbidden to equip the device with components made in a handicraft way;
- avoid contact of oil with the body and electrical wiring;
- if it is necessary to replace the main cable, it must be grounded.
There isn't much possible faults oil heaters. Their causes are electrical and mechanical. Often, failures in the functionality of electrical equipment are due to the failure of the heating element, thermal relay, thermal fuse, and also the switch. Very rarely there are problems with the wiring.
Mechanical failures include a violation of the integrity of the housing and the appearance of holes through which oil flows. Determining the problem is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Leakage is detected by characteristic oil stains under the unit. All other breakdowns are related to the electrical part.
Appliance leak
Violation of the tightness of the unit often occurs when mechanical damage, as well as due to the appearance of corrosion formed due to defects in the paintwork. If a long-used and already familiar heater is dripping, then you can try to fix this malfunction yourself. Repair work can be carried out provided that the device is of an old design and manufactured by a domestic manufacturer, and is also equipped with a removable heating element.
Leakage of an old radiator may appear due to the appearance of corrosion and rust. First you need to disassemble the oil heater. To do this, it is necessary to disconnect the control unit, inside which the heating element is located. The latter should be carefully unscrewed and drained into a clean container. After carrying out these manipulations, it is necessary to fill the unit with water to avoid igniting the oil inside.
After detecting a leak, it can be eliminated by welding, but first you need to clean the case with coarse sandpaper or a grinder. Depending on the size and location of the damage, a metal patch is cut in, which is then superimposed on the hole and scalded.
The welding seam must be carefully cleaned and sanded, then degreased and painted with heat-resistant paint. After the paintwork has dried, oil is poured into the device by 80% of the volume. Then the device is assembled in the reverse order.
It is impractical to repair more modern ribbed structures. This is due to the fact that they are made of thin steel using laser welding. It is technically very difficult to restore the tightness of such units, and in living conditions practically impossible or would require large financial outlays. In addition, products are often equipped with a non-removable heating element, so oil can only be drained through the damaged area, and it will not work to fill it back up.
Replacing the heating element
In most cases, all oil heaters crackle when plugged in. This is not dangerous, because the sound is due to the expansion of the case under the influence of heat. If, after turning on the device and setting the required power and temperature indicators, the unit does not make sounds, then there is no heating. The cause of the breakdown may be a malfunction of the heating element or electrical wiring.
You can detect a breakdown by ringing the wires with a multimeter It is important to carefully inspect the electrical cable for damage. If no visible defects are found, then it is necessary to dismantle the rack from the case and disconnect the radiator from the control unit. To do this, it is necessary to remove the plate with the inscription "Do not cover" or "Do not cover" on it, under which there are fixing screws. Having unscrewed the latter from above, on the lower part you need to unfasten spring clips and remove the side.
It is necessary to carefully inspect the wiring and insulation, check the quality of the connection. Special attention give to areas where fractures or oxidation are noticed. If a damaged conductor is found, it must be replaced with a new one. Clean oxidized contacts with sandpaper.
The next step is to dial the details with a multimeter. It must be started from the section from the plug to the nearest switching point. Multi-colored strands in the wires make it easy to follow the directions of the wiring. If the tester beeps, then the conductor is intact. The absence of sounds indicates damage.
There are fuses outside the heating element - this must be taken into account when dialing. There are situations when the heating element is working, but the protective parts burn out.
You can try to replace the heating element yourself If during testing a breakdown of the heating element is detected, further manipulations depend on the method of mounting the heating element in the heater. If the mount is threaded, you can replace the element yourself. To do this, unscrew it and install a similar part in terms of temperature and power.
If the unit is equipped with a non-removable heating element that is rolled inward, then at home it is almost impossible to flare it and install a new part. In this case, you need to think about purchasing a new product.
Breakdown of the thermostat
When testing the health of the temperature controller, a series of manipulations should be performed step by step. Some of them:
- Ring a small section of the chain that goes from the plug to the regulator.
- Set the minimum temperature value and test again - the device should show an open circuit.
- When the heating element is turned on and the thermostat is set to a value greater than zero, the circuit must be closed.
In the event of a malfunction of the thermostat, it should be replaced with a new one. If the dialing of parts revealed a lack of operability (for example, the radiator does not respond to temperature changes or power switching), then the element must be replaced with a new one. This is due to the fact that to identify specifications, and then it is impractical to repair in industrial conditions, and in domestic conditions it is very difficult. If the regulatory mechanism is fully functional, you need to clean it of dirt, and also tighten the contacts.
Bimetal fault
The question regarding the possibility of a heater explosion is relevant, because the oil pressure in the device reaches high levels, and the air space in the form of 20% of the volume, of course, has a limited potential. To prevent this, the device is equipped with a thermostat. Often this part is presented in the form of a bimetallic plate that closes the electrical circuit. If the multimeter detects a break at this location, the part must be replaced with a new one with the same characteristics.
If the thermostat is faulty, it will also have to be replaced with a new one. Oil coolers explode very rarely. This is due to the fact that they have many protective steps that duplicate each other. The probability of a simultaneous failure of all security systems is very low.
No shutdown when dropped
The opening of the circuit when the product is tilted or tilted is provided by a mechanism. Its action is based on the presence of a suspended load, which, when deviated from the vertical position, remains in the same state.
Testing of this part is carried out by manually rocking the unit. If during these manipulations the heater does not turn off, then you need to clean it about
Parts in oil coolers are best replaced, repairs require special skills tons of dust and good to disperse, but the best thing is to replace because the installation won't take long.
If the safety switch fails, the heaters do not explode. This is due to the fact that when the heating elements that are not covered with oil are overheated, protection is triggered on them or the electrical circuit is opened using a thermal relay.
At home, it is quite possible to fix an oil heater. When troubleshooting, it is best to replace non-working parts without attempting to repair them. This is due to various hazards that require professional skills.
The thermostat is a device for automatic control temperature regime installed on heating equipment. Using a heater without a thermostat is inconvenient, because you have to constantly turn on the device manually, depending on whether it is cold or hot in the room. Besides manually it will not be possible to preheat the room, for example, before returning home from work.
Also of note is the fire hazard of appliances not equipped with regulators if they are left on for a long time. And finally, the thermostat allows you to optimize the consumption of electricity in the room, since the automation turns on the equipment only when it is really needed.
Varieties of thermostats
There are three types of regulators:
- electronic;
- electromechanical;
- mechanical.
Below we will briefly discuss the characteristics of each of them.
Electronic regulators
thermostat with electronic stuffing has three components:
- temperature sensor;
- microprocessor responsible for processing and transmitting information;
- thermal relay, thanks to which the control switching is carried out.
The main advantage of electronic controllers is the high accuracy with which the room temperature is determined, effective and simple temperature control.
Electronic thermostats are used not only in oil heaters, but also to organize the management of larger heating systems (for example, "smart home").
Electromechanical regulators
Relay-based electromechanical devices are much simpler than electronic devices. There are several types of electromechanical regulators:
- Devices of the first group include a group of contacts and a double metal plate. When the equipment is heated, the plate bends and, thus, opens the group of contacts. The consequence of the opening is to stop the supply of electricity to the heating plate. When the heater cools down, the plate returns to its starting point, and the electrical circuit starts to work in the previous mode, since the contacts are closed again. The cyclic operation allows you to maintain the temperature level at approximately the same level.
- Devices equipped with a relay operate on the principle of expansion of its elements as a result of heating. The relay is a cylindrical tube containing a heat-responsive substance. The pipe is in a container of water. When the temperature of the heater rises, the substance in the pipe expands. When the temperature reaches certain value, rich content affects electrical circuit by means of an actuator, resulting in the closing or opening of contacts. In a similar way avoid overheating of the equipment.
Mechanical
The most simple are mechanical regulators. These thermostats are a common stop valves. The design of the device includes a cylinder with a rod filled with a thermally sensitive substance. As a result of the expansion of the substance during heating, the rod partially or completely blocks the flow of the coolant in the system.
Typical breakdowns of oil heaters
Before you can troubleshoot a problem, you need to run a diagnostic. Below are a few tips to help you find the cause of the problem:
- Cracking after turning on does not mean a breakdown. Most likely, we are talking about heating the oil inside the radiator. Also, crackling can be the result of tilting or falling the heater, resulting in a displacement of oil and air. Installing the equipment on a perfectly flat surface will help reduce the noise level.
- If the radiator does not turn on, it is necessary to exclude the socket from the list of potential problems by connecting the device to another source of electricity. By the degree of prevalence of breakdowns, you can line up in the following sequence: the contact has gone, the problem with the plug, the cord is damaged.
- If the device supplies external signs work (indicator lights are on, fans are rotating), but does not heat up, the problem is most likely in the thermal relay. You can replace this part with your own hands.
- The lack of heat may indicate a malfunction of the heating element. In this case, it is not recommended to carry out repairs on your own, you will need the help of a qualified specialist.
- You can talk about a thermostat malfunction when the heater does not turn off after reaching the required temperature.
Electrician
If the cause of the breakdown is an electrician, you will need a special device - a multimeter.
With this device we check:
- serviceability of the plug and socket;
- no short circuit between heater elements.
Often the problem is the burnout of the wires at the points of their connections. We de-energize the equipment and check all the switch keys.
To check, we use a multimeter in the following positions:
- in the "on" position there will be a short circuit;
- in the "off" position there will be no reaction.
We check the regulator with a multimeter. The resistance level should be negligible in the absence of a short circuit.
We disassemble the case and evaluate the condition of the contacts in the control unit: they can be weakened, burned out or oxidized. If the contacts are oxidized, treating them with alcohol will help, as well as sanding and insulating them. The best insulator is fiberglass tape that can withstand 200-degree temperatures. Loose contacts are tightened with a screwdriver, burnt contacts are changed. After working with the contacts, we once again check the equipment for a short circuit.
Thermal fuses
There may be several fuses. After ringing and detecting a blown fuse, remove it. We install a new fuse, and isolate the wiring.
Bimetal plate
If the plate has been deformed, it must be replaced.
Procedure:
- We disassemble the thermostat.
- Set the heating temperature to the minimum.
- We remove the thermostat knob from the screw, unscrew the nuts, remove the frame.
- We change the bimetallic plate to a new one.
Severe damage to the plate often provokes oil leakage.
Oil leak
In this case, the tank will need to be repaired. This is not always justified, since the tank is easier to replace. However, if you decide to carry out repair work, you must consider the following nuances:
Heating element malfunction
This oil cooler part is not subject to repair work, it needs to be changed. However, the replacement of the heating element is possible only if it is removable. A new part is selected based on the required power. best material, from which a high-quality heating element is made, is copper.
When installing the heating element, pay attention to the junction of this part with the body. The gasket should be treated with a sealant, although in the future, for sure, repeated sealing will be needed. It is also possible to install a new heating element on a non-separable structure, but in this case it will be very difficult to roll an already flared part.
Position sensor
This safety element is a load, when the angle of which changes, the device automatically turns off. To check the operation of this part, you need to put the heater on its side and ring the contacts. If the sensor is defective, it cannot be repaired.
When choosing a thermostat, it is recommended to give preference to well-established manufacturing companies, since this part is part of common system and its failure can cause emergency in room. It is also necessary to take into account all the features proper organization heating system, including floor space and equipment capacity.
