How to make a training sword from wood. How to make a wooden sword? You can do a little test

How to make a sword with your own hands at home. How to make a sword from iron with your own hands. This weapon is made without the use of blacksmiths, the blade is simply cut from sheet metal. In this regard, such a sword cannot be seriously called a weapon; it is simply an exhibit that can be used at competitions, exhibitions, and so on. However, if you wish, you can make the same sword from good steel and temper it.

The most difficult thing when making a sword will be the formation of bevels, since they are very long when compared with a knife, and there are already 4 of them. To form the bevels, the author used a milling machine. In principle, this task can be handled with a belt sander or even with a grinder using sanding discs. But all this will take a lot of time and effort.

Materials and tools that the author used to make the sword:
List of materials:
- sheet steel for making a blade;
- wood for the handle;
- aluminum “beam” for making guards.

List of tools:
- milling machine;
- large and small grinder;
- drilling machine and drill;
- vices and clamps;
- files;
- sandpaper;
- orbital Grinder;
- chisel;
- epoxy adhesive;
- polishing wheel and paste (optional).

Sword making process:
Step one. Blade making
Making the blade is the most difficult part of homemade crafts. First of all, you need to cut out the rough profile of the blade; in principle, this task is not difficult to cope with. We draw a profile on the blank, and then slowly, slowly cut it out using a grinder. Here you will need a large grinder, or at least a medium one. You will also need a considerable arsenal cutting wheels and a lot of patience.

Another profile can be cut using band saw for metal, if available in the arsenal.

Next comes a more difficult task, this is the formation of the bevels, as well as the central groove, called the “dale”. The central gutter can be made first, then you can use it to guide you when forming the bevels. Of course, it will be difficult to do it by hand; a milling machine can easily cope with this task.

However, you can draw a line for the gutter and try to cut it with a grinder, using thick discs for cleaning, sanding, etc. But this process will take a lot of your time and effort.

The most realistic way to create bevels is not with a belt sanding machine. However, if you mark everything well, you can try to do this work with a manual grinding machine. In the very as a last resort We use a grinder with sanding discs. Of course, it will take months to sharpen the metal with files...

Finally, using a grinder, cut out the tail part where the handle will be located. There shouldn't be any special difficulties here.

Step two. Surface grinding
Let's start sanding the surface. Our task will be to make the metal smooth, shiny, and remove all those defects that remain after rough processing. The author does the sanding by hand, using sandpaper with grits of 320, 500, 800 and 1000. To get an even sanding surface, secure the sandpaper to a block.

Finally, sand the metal to a mirror finish. For these purposes, the author uses very fine 1000-grit sandpaper. For the sandpaper to work well, wet it from time to time in water, this will clean it.

Step three. Making a guard
The author makes the guard from aluminum, since this metal is soft and easy to process. A rectangular rod is used as a workpiece.

First of all, drill a row of holes in the center. Then these holes are bored into one large rectangular hole using files. The size of the hole should be such that the shank of the blade fits into it.

Now all you have to do is create the desired guard profile. This is not difficult to do, first we draw, then we cut and sand. Aluminum is easy to work with; it can be processed well with files and other materials. hand tools, and you can cut it with a hacksaw. Finally, sand the workpiece with fine sandpaper.

In addition to the guard, you need to make one more piece that fits onto the very edge of the handle. It is also made from aluminum. We drill holes, sharpen, grind. The author has attached drawings of both products.

Step four. Making a pen
Now you can start making the handle; it is made of wood. For these purposes, you will need two blocks; choose the type of wood at your discretion. Cut the blanks to required length, and then draw lines through the center along the blanks. Here you have to form square-shaped grooves; on each workpiece, the depth of the groove should be half the thickness of the sword's tang. Such grooves can easily be made with a chisel.

Now glue the two halves together with wood glue and firmly clamp them with clamps until completely dry. When the glue dries, take files, sandpaper and form the profile of the handle. At this step it should have a finished shape. The author sands the handle with 120-grit sandpaper and finishes with a finer 240-grit sandpaper. As a result, you will get a hollow handle into which you can then insert the tang of the sword.

Step five. Let's start assembling the sword
Now the sword can be assembled, usually epoxy glue is used to glue the parts. Before using the glue, thoroughly sand the surfaces to be glued and wipe the metal of the shank with acetone. Apply glue to each part and assemble the sword. First, the guard is installed, and then carefully pressed on wooden handle. If there are any cavities between the handle and the shank, fill them with epoxy glue. Finally, all you have to do is install the aluminum part made earlier on the tail section. Fix the whole thing and let the glue dry. Epoxy glue usually takes a day to dry.

The glue has dried and it's time final processing. If desired, you can polish the blade to a mirror shine. As for the handle, it will require additional sanding after gluing. There may be glue residues appearing here, some unevenness may appear, and so on. The whole thing can be smoothed out perfectly with sandpaper. Make your hand even and bring it to perfect smoothness.

Finally, you need to protect the sword from moisture. We lubricate the steel itself with oil, as it will quickly darken or even rust. Do not touch it with your fingers after this. As for wood, when it absorbs moisture it can change volume and crack, which will lead to the handle becoming deformed. To prevent this, the wood must be soaked linseed oil or other special impregnations. Finally, you can apply wax to the handle and polish it.

If desired, sharpen the sword, however, the metal here is not intended for the sword to be used for its intended purpose. One of the disadvantages of such a weapon is that the sword turned out to be too heavy.
The homemade product is ready, good luck in the competition!

Hello, hello, friends! Are you ready to plunge into the world of wood? Today we will try to make a sword from wood.

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1 way:
TECHNIQUES OF FULFILLING WISHES -
The easiest way to make a sword with your own hands is from a tree. To do this, you will need several boards for the blade and guard, as well as a minimum set of tools. To find out even more ways to make your own sword, go to the website and read our article:

Method 2:
HOW TO SIMPLY MAKE A TWO-HANDED SWORD OUT OF A SMALL BOARD BY YOURSELF. MINIMUM COST - MAXIMUM PLEASURE.

3 way:
Construction process wooden sword from minecraft game real life. Minecraft toys for children, boys and girls. Birthday gift.

4 way:
In this video I will tell you how to make a sword with your own hands, the Instructor of the main character of the animated series Sword Art Online Sword Art Online
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In this video I will tell you how to make Deadpool's katanas from the game DEADPOOL THE GAME with your own hands. Katanas are made of MDF, and pvc pipes and porous rubber.
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Sword hilt disassembly

I removed the skin and then split the wood and threw it away. The wood was glued together from several parts, but it held tightly. It was possible to carefully remove it by removing the pommel, but to do this I would have to grind off the tip of the shank and pick out the pommel, but I didn’t want additional damage.

Then I gave the pommel a little tap with a hammer and it slid down as shown in the picture below. As you can see, there was some metal at the top of the tang and it flared out towards the blade. It was impossible to remove the pommel without damaging it without splitting the wood beforehand.

The following picture shows only the pommel and the tip of the shank. The hole in the pommel goes all the way to the end and they had some glue applied to the bottom.

Sword hilt assembly

to the begining

After I remade the crosspiece, I widened the hole in the pommel, shortened the tang to reinforce it, and made an additional recess at the top of the pommel.

First of all, I got the crossguard aligned with the sword's fuller. (See picture below) ..looks much better.

I also re-made the blackboard with wood lining and covered it with leather, but this will be covered in more detail later. Below in the picture is the original state of the pommel.

The next shot shows the pommel after I've milled out the hidden area for the tang.

The following illustration shows the pommel after I installed it (you can see the ugly blob). I probably nailed it too hard, but it turned out really strong. I'm sure everything is done very tightly.

In the photo below, the pommel and tang are cleaned, this is how it looks and is holding securely at the moment!

Below is a picture of the polished shank and pommel. The tip of the shank is barely visible.

The picture below shows the finished sword with the new hilt. I'm very happy with how it all turned out. Everything fits very tightly and now it has a lot more metal tang in the pommel.

Wooden parts of the sword hilt

to the begining

I removed the old wooden parts handles and I have some small pieces of poplar wood on hand to make a new handle. I cut the first piece a little larger than the final size of the piece. This gives some permission for processing and grinding. I laid the shank on a piece of wood and marked it by drawing some lines on the wood. Then I took some small pieces of poplar that would end up being the sides of the handle. They will be 6mm (1/4") thick, while the top and bottom pieces will be 13mm (1/2") thick.

The picture above shows how I glued (using any good wood glue) two 6mm pieces of wood to the bottom. Clamped them and let them dry for an hour.

The picture above shows two side pieces glued to a top piece identical to the bottom piece, cut out and ready to be glued together.

I have generally been able to form a solid wooden handle and fit it onto the tang, but may have some trouble fitting it to the tang. It is much easier to attach the handle if it consists of two parts. So I use an old carpenter's trick: gluing two pieces (top and bottom) with a piece of paper between them. This creates a firm pressure and allows me to adjust the shape and size of the handle and then separate the handle before installing it onto the tang.. The picture above shows a piece of paper being glued to the bottom. It's best to use something a little thicker than standard paper. Here I'm using a piece of cardboard.

I mentioned earlier that the two pieces were 6mm (1/4") thick. But the tang on this sword was closer to 4.7mm (3/16"), so I planed part of the underside so that the gap was only slightly larger than 4.7 mm so that there is some space for the epoxy glue that we will use to glue the handle to the pommel. Slowly here...don't remove too much wood...it's better to remove too little than a little more!

Apply a little glue on the other side of the paper and on the top of the pen. The picture above shows all the parts clamped, so they should hold for about an hour. Use only wood glue here.


If you have everything glued together, then you are now ready to turn the stock into nice rounded handles from a square piece of stock. Again, go slow here. Grinding machine really convenient for turning, but it can be done manually. I tried to grind so that the top and bottom of the handle matched the thickness of the tang and cross.	After careful grinding I got a handle. I sanded it down so it was pretty smooth. You'll need to do some final sanding after you glue on the shank, but for the most part you can finish it at this point.

In the picture above I just showed what happens at the end. Again, I repeat: I tried to make the handle correspond to the thickness of the pommel in the upper part, and the crosspiece in the lower part. In addition, I am sure that I made a handle that is comfortable for my hand.

If your pommel is not yet riveted to the tang, make sure that the handle fits snugly and puts even pressure on the tang, cross and pommel.

I'm happy with the shape and finish of the handle and I'm now ready to split the handle into two halves. Simply insert a screwdriver and gently lift the two pieces away from each other along the line on the paper. When you split in two, you will need to sand a little to remove any paper that is left on the wood. The picture above shows that my torment is coming to an end and that it will all work!

I leave the workpiece glued with epoxy glue for 5 minutes so that the wooden handle is evenly glued to the shank. Make sure the shank is clean and free of any oils. Mix and apply epoxy to the tang and both parts of the handle. Make sure you don't plan too much of a gap on the sides or ends. Make sure when you clamp them that they do not fall out and are properly aligned. You may want to check them a few times to ensure they remain aligned while the glue dries. Epoxy takes approximately 20 minutes.

Also make sure that the handle fits flush against the guard so it won't dangle. I usually add a little epoxy around the guard for good measure.

My handle was taken apart and I widened the tip of the tang a bit. The epoxy remains slightly flexible for several hours, so after gluing, I attached the pommel to the shank. Thus, the pommel should also sit firmly and hold the handle. Everything will completely harden within a few days.

The picture above shows the finished sword. You will probably need to touch up by sanding any glue that may have leaked, or just for a final clean up. Just be careful not to scratch any metal parts while doing this.

And now you can take the sword in your hand. But that is not all.

How to make a sword?

Every boy in childhood dreamed of having real sword. And childhood dreams need to be fulfilled, even if you are already well over 30. Moreover, historical reconstruction and role-playing games based on fantasy have long ceased to be the lot of teenagers and students, and quite serious and respected people are engaged in them, since it is interesting and quite unusual class. Also, do not forget that a sword on the wall is a decoration for any interior.

A sword at home can be made from the following materials:

made of wood;
made of metal.

Sword made of wood

In order to make a wooden sword, you need to decide on a tool. For this you may need:

thick plywood/small board;
Grinder;
hacksaw;
plane;
scissors;
chisel;
brush;
sandpaper;
epoxy resin;
dye.

Progress

Once everything you need is prepared, you can begin making the sword.

one-handed;
one and a half;
two-handed.

One-handed sword

A one-handed sword is no longer than 60 centimeters and, as a rule, is used in conjunction with a shield.

Bastard sword

One-and-a-half is a transitional option between one-handed and two-handed swords. You can hold it with one or two hands.

Two-handed sword

The two-handed sword is the longest and heaviest. When pressed into the ground, the handle reaches the owner's chin.

Any of the three blades must be properly balanced. The center of gravity of the weapon is always shifted towards the handle. In the case of one-handed and bastard swords- this is the distance of one palm from the guard. A two-handed sword has a little more - two palms from the guard. The guard is a component of the hilt, a kind of retainer that prevents the hand from slipping onto work surface weapon and protects the hand from the enemy’s sword sliding along its own blade. The guard usually looks like a cross that separates the handle from the blade.

Metal sword

Having dealt with the wooden ball, we proceed to making a metal sword. It's actually not much more complicated.

We will need:

metal plate;
wooden block for the handle;
"Bulgarian";
drill and set of drills;
sandpaper;
hacksaw;
chisel;
vice;
brush.

And keep in mind that a metal sword is already quite a serious weapon and requires appropriate treatment.

Making a sword

Now you know how to make a sword with your own hands. All that remains is to prepare required material and get to work.

Despite the fact that in the modern world firearms are widely used, cold weapons are still used - in daggers and bayonet knives. This is where the official combat use of edged weapons ends. and daggers became part of historical and national costumes. Role players and reenactors fight with gusto, using wooden, plastic, automotive steel and other materials in their battles.

In almost every school of hand-to-hand combat you can find a direction in fighting with sticks and training swords. Because fencing develops body balance, orientation, movement speed and muscle flexibility. A person who knows how to fence with a steel sword can easily do the same with any stick.

What types of swords are there?

There are several types of swords. The simplest and easiest to make are straight, one-and-a-half and two-handed. They differ in weight and type of combat with them.

Direct or Slavic - the smallest and most convenient to handle with one hand. In the second hand they usually take a shield or another similar sword. The handle of such a weapon is designed for one hand. To select the size, take the workpiece in your hand - the tip of the blade should touch the ground.

The one and a half sword is an intermediate sword between straight and two-handed. A fight with this is carried out either with two hands, or with one and a small shield, so that you can always help the second hand. This type of sword is very common in hand-to-hand combat schools, as it allows you to develop the upper shoulder girdle and strengthen the joints.

The heaviest and longest, if you rest it on the ground, the handle should reach your chin. This can only be handled with two hands. In training, it is good for muscle development.

All swords, one way or another, develop coordination of movement, especially if the battle is against several opponents.

Making a wooden sword: what material to choose?

A wooden sword can be made from the material different types. Some advise taking dead wood or parts of boards from birch, hazel, oak, and aspen. This is suitable if you need wooden swords for training so that you don’t mind breaking them. If you are preparing for role-playing game and you want to have an impressive, durable sword with which you can show off, then you should choose a fresh one young tree. The thickness depends on the type of sword. You can take thicker wood, but then you need to choose the core as the strongest part.

Be careful when choosing the material; wooden swords with knots, rot and wood bugs do not last long. The selected workpiece must first be soaked until completely saturated with moisture, and then dried very slowly so that the wood does not crack. If you follow the wood drying technology, you will get a very durable and light sword.

Sword at home: how to make?

A wooden sword, despite the pliability of the material, will require patience and skill in working with. Remove the bark from the workpiece with a plane, removing irregularities along the way and making the barrel straighter. Plane the trunk on both sides so that the blade is from 3 cm to 0.5 cm. There is no point in sharpening the wood, given the strength of the material. All sharp edges must be removed, the blade made oval. You should not make the handle round, otherwise during the fight the sword will spin in your hand; it is better to choose a rectangle with rounded edges as a shape. Between the blade and the handle, carve a place for the guard. The guard can be made of wood, metal or nylon. We make two identical symmetrical parts and fasten with electrical tape.

The handle is also wrapped with electrical tape or wet leather. The balance of the sword should be at a distance of one or two palms from the guard to the blade; if this point could not be observed during the manufacture of the sword, then when winding the handle, lead inserts can be hidden under the winding. The tree itself should be strengthened with impregnating compounds, like epoxy resin. Your weapon will serve you longer and will not be afraid of moisture. Wooden swords can also be made beautiful. Therefore on last stage it remains only to decorate the sword to your liking.

Are you still wondering how to make a wooden sword? This is a simple product. But for stuffing a skill, you can start with a knife or a boat.

Scandinavian type

Round shields are called Scandinavian, although they were used everywhere in Slavic squads, since round shields easy to make. Their diameter was usually from 65 to 90 cm. The Scandinavians made them from ash, oak, and maple. Made of linden were especially appreciated - for their low weight. The thickness of such shields was from 6 to 12 mm. The boards were bound with steel plates, and they themselves were painted in various colors and decorated. Sometimes a finished and decorated product became an expensive gift.

Making a wooden shield

Based on the preferences of Scandinavians and modern materials, the simplest thing is to make a shield from plywood 6 mm thick. Using the markings, cut out a circle of the diameter you need. Cut a hole in the center for the fist. Using a wood knife or paint, you can imitate boards. For durability and best view cover the shield with stain.

Depending on the size of your hand, make a metal umbon to close the hole. The shield handle is attached to two strips, which are attached to the entire diameter of the product. The handle is made of oak, birch or ash. They are fastened with nails, and the protruding parts are removed with pliers and riveted.

At the next stage, the shield is glued with leather or burlap. After this, the umbon is mounted. The shield is framed either with metal or leather. The metal is from 1 to 1.5 mm thick, and the leather when forging should be thicker, from 5 mm.

For ease of wearing, you need to make a leather strap. Such an addition will allow you to wear a shield on your shoulder or throw it on your back over your head.

The final stage - decoration - is left to your discretion. The shield was often depicted with a coat of arms, a unit sign, or simply a drawing aimed at intimidating the enemy.

Training with a wooden sword

In hand-to-hand combat schools, sword fighting training is often organized during classes. This perfectly develops coordination, reaction, and a sense of distance. And the painfulness of the blows allows you to believe in the reality of the battle. Wooden swords and shields are excellent weapons for such training. There are separate schools of sword fighting where they use heavy defense, and the fight is more like a show. But there is a drawback to such training: the fighter, getting used to strong armor, begins to expose himself to blows, and in the case of street stick fighting, this leads to injury.

But try to remove the protection, every blow leaves bruises. After a few lessons, students begin to dodge blows. When fighting a stronger opponent, they learn not to take the blow harshly, but to redirect it. In combat with several opponents, they develop coordination, speed of movement, thinking and intuition. Such skills will be useful in real life, and not just in the ring.

A wooden sword is cheaper and easier to make, so it is used for training. With its help, you can practice most movements, but when switching to other materials, you have to learn a lot again, since the weight changes greatly. Some trainers use very heavy and clumsy wooden swords so that students develop muscles, and the movements are practiced on metal.

Additional protection

Looking at photos of wooden swords and making your own, do not forget about protection. In the heat of a training fight, it's easy to lose your temper and start hitting at full strength. To avoid fractures, it is worth using additional protection arms, legs and head. The first defense is your own sword, then the sword guard. Fingers, wrists, and forearms are at risk. In mass battles, everything else falls into the risk zone. Therefore, it is recommended to protect the hands with gloves, wrists and forearms - with sleeves. Cover the body with a thick leather jacket or quilt. It is worth putting a tight knitted cap on your head, in case of a pass, it will soften and distribute the blow. To protect your teeth, do not forget about the mouthguard. Legs from the foot to the knee should be covered with high boots or boots with knee pads.

Reenactors

The movement of role-players and re-enactors is popular in our world. Some use the plot from fantasy books for their games, others reconstruct battles from our history. If the first can get off with a not too active role and not participate in mass battles, then the second is better to have fencing skills, good physical fitness and dexterity, and also be able to fight in the ranks.

It is always easier to buy a sword in a special workshop, it is not difficult to find one among role players, but if you decide to make a wooden sword with your own hands, then be patient.