Plywood is very affordable, comparatively inexpensive material For various crafts. Things made from it can have not only decorative value, but also be useful in our Everyday life, at home.

Plywood is an easily processed building material, which is produced by gluing together several layers of veneer and specially treated wood chips.

Introduction

These sheets, which can be used for making crafts and structures, may differ:

• number of layers of veneer - three-layer, five-layer and multi-layer;
• the type of wood from which the multilayer sheet is made (deciduous or coniferous);
• according to the degree of processing (polished on one or both sides, not polished).

Building codes and standards

To learn more about the subject in question building material(on the classification of the entire plywood nomenclature, grade, standard sizes produced), which can be purchased for the manufacture of many products and crafts, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the following documents:

• GOST 3916.1-96 “Plywood general purpose with outer layers of veneer hardwood».
• GOST 3916.2-96 “General purpose plywood with outer layers of softwood veneer.”

Schemes, drawings and patterns for products made from plywood sheets

Computer drawing programs

Today you can easily find a diagram, a pattern for a plywood structure, so that you can then prepare any drawing using computer-aided design systems (including the above cat pattern). Next, use a plotter to print it onto a paper sheet of the required format.

Popular drawing programs are the easiest to learn and can be used in 2D and 3D modeling, including for plywood structures:

• "KOMPAS" - complex automated systems, with the possibility of drawing up drawings in accordance with the standards of the ESKDI and SPDS series;
• AutoCAD is a two- and three-dimensional computer-aided design and drawing system.

So, if you cannot find a detailed drawing of the plywood product you need, then the application capabilities of the given software will help you make a full-fledged drawing using any diagrams and patterns posted on the Internet.

Kayak

The price of the construction plywood from which the kayak is made is simply incommensurate with the pleasure that the person who made it with his own hands and who loves rowing boats will receive.

The Eskimo kayak is the same kayak among the Aleuts - a traditional rowing boat of the Arctic peoples. This boat can be single, double or triple. Let's post drawings of a plywood kayak for one person.

Construction algorithm rowing boat from plywood sheets in principle is general, with the exception of some nuances. A step-by-step procedure for cutting, processing and assembling a kayak can be seen in the video in this article.

Plywood table - simple and functional

Clear drawings of a plywood table with your own hands, which will be easy to implement even for a person without special carpentry skills and experience. Table cover (1 sheet) - 1300 x 600 x 16 (mm) Inner wall (1 sheet) - 1170 x 400 x 16 (mm)

Plywood constructor

Various plywood construction kit drawings are now gaining more and more popularity. Assembling such models from safe material is a very useful activity for children and teenagers. Such crafts will become good examples of collections and will decorate the modellers' corner.

Tank

The stages of work on installing a tank model are as follows:

1. The plywood is sanded (first with medium-grain sandpaper and then with fine-grain sandpaper);
2. The drawings are carefully transferred through carbon paper onto a sheet sanded with fine-grained abrasive plywood material.
3. Drill into the corners of the contour transfer through holes(drill 3 mm or more);
4. Attach the file to the jigsaw and start cutting out the elements of the tank;

Note!
Cutting out parts must begin inside the contours of the tank blanks, and only then around the office itself.

Advice!
When assembling plywood assemblies, have models at hand Various types needle files to fit the elements to each other at any time.

1. After adjusting all the parts, you can start gluing them (for example, with PVA glue, “Titan”);

Advice!
In order for the components and elements of the tank to grip each other more firmly and reliably, you can tie them with thread or rope for a while after gluing them.

1. A cannon can be made by cutting wooden handle brushes for watercolor paint or other auxiliary material;
2. If desired, you can apply a side number or other inscriptions and patterns to a tank, or any other model, using an electric burner;
3. For greater preservation and decoration of the model, they can be coated with varnishes and paints.

Car – retro (old Mercedes)

Note!
When you transfer these drawings of a plywood machine with your own hands onto the plywood sheets themselves, do not forget to transfer the numbers.

When assembling the model itself, look carefully at the numbers.

In this case, the process is carried out according to the following algorithm, in accordance with digital notations:

• the part or assembly numbered 1 must be connected to another number 1;
• and part number 2 is attached accordingly to the next number 2 and so on until the machine is assembled.

Gun

Drawings of a pistol made of plywood model "Bulldog". When assembling, we follow the same rules as when assembling a machine: the same numbers must be mounted with each other.

Advice!
This model of pistol is best coated from a bottle of spray paint; for a better resemblance to the original, layers of black paint can be applied.

Dinosaur

When designing, drawings of plywood dinosaurs, for example, those presented below, can be made in any scale you need according to the presented pattern in a drawing program for a computer.

Preparing the material, model elements and the assembly itself is not difficult, but you will have to have some patience when working with a jigsaw and adjusting the model components to each other.

Napkin holder – “Grape leaves”

This item in the shape of grape leaves will always come in handy in household for its intended purpose - for napkins, and for storing, for example, sheets of paper of the selected format:

Vase, stand for pencils, pens, brushes

Drawings of a plywood vase, from which you can easily cut out a craft of the size you need:

Plywood panel

It is the ease and simplicity of cutting out plywood sheets of various configurations with a jigsaw with different sizes, installation of them various designs, allows you to perform a variety of decorative panels for the walls of our home. Any panel made carefully is an excellent gift for family and friends.

Drawings of a plywood panel, which also serves as a shelf in the household:

Some useful tips and warnings:

• When transferring patterns and drawings onto plywood, use the thinnest and sharpest pencil lead. Better yet, use used ballpoint pen, then the lines will always be the same, and the copy paper from the ball will not tear. It is convenient to transfer drawings to plywood using laser printer.
• For better fastening of parts, where possible, it is recommended that the width of the grooves correspond to .
• There are two types of files with large and small teeth. It is more convenient for beginners to learn how to use a thick file, and cut out a thin one small parts, already having some experience and skills in using a jigsaw.
• The files must cut from top to bottom, so pay special attention to correct fastening files in a jigsaw.
• Files can easily break, so cut carefully and do not allow parts to hang on the saw blade.
• When purchasing a file, make sure that the teeth are sharp, and that the file itself should not bend easily, but rather be firm. It’s not the flat ones that are easy to use, but the so-called “twisted” files – they can be used to make cuts in any direction.
• For those whose cutting of structures from plywood sheets is a hobby, there is no need to purchase band saw, just buy a jigsaw. Although everyone is an amateur, some masters still often resort to hand jigsaw, when “you need to feel the material.”

conclusions

1. Before choosing, purchasing and directly working with the material from which you will cut models, panels, construction kits and structures, familiarize yourself with its types and classification according to construction documents (GOST).
2. For sawing, purchase quality tool, equipment and accessories for it.
   
3. Make your choice responsibly quality plywood. Do not limit yourself to a visual inspection, tap it for internal voids and delaminations due to poor gluing of the veneer layers.
4. Before working with a jigsaw, optimally equip your workplace. Special attention give it some time good lighting so that the cut and markings are clearly visible and your eyes don’t get tired. It’s not a bad idea to use a strobe light to illuminate the area where you’re working with a jigsaw. Convenient and comfortable sawing!

Description drawings of a plywood vase

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Wooden vases look very beautiful. Usually done on lathe. But 90% of the wood turns into chips.
There is a technology that allows you to make a vase from a flat panel.

Here's what happens:

It took me a long time to choose the material to test. On the one hand, you want something interesting, on the other hand, you don’t mind spoiling it.
In the end, I settled on walnut, with oak and wenge inserts.

A walnut board 75mm wide and 15mm thick is cut into 3 parts.
4mm oak veneer must be cut into 15mm dies.

How to do it if not circular saw, but have a couple of clamps and a scoring saw?
Like this - the fist is clamped between the nut dies...

And sawing.

The result is an even die of the required thickness:

I glue the walnut into a shield with spacers - two oak dies, between them a thin wenge veneer. (which was sawn using the same technology)
Scratches from the saw are visible. A slight sloppiness, plus solid oak, which was sawed along the grain.
No big deal, the shield will still have to be sanded to even out gluing errors.

And again I glue it with spacers and leave it overnight:

I use a belt sander to level the shield and remove any remaining glue. Perhaps we should have made the wenge continuous:

The result was a shield 14 mm thick. It took 0.5 mm on each side.
Based on the shield and the desired dimensions of the vase, the angle and pitch are selected:

I print the drawing, use an awl to combine the centers of the shield and the drawing, glue the drawing:

I cut a small rake at an angle of 38 degrees:

I fix the shield with clamps on the jigsaw table and using the rail as a guide, I drill 2mm holes with a drill at an angle of 38 degrees:

I insert a file into the hole:

And let's go!
I cut the first ring:

And here it is - the bottom!

The wood is very hard, it is sawed slowly, if you press it a little, the file will burst. To replace the file, you need to return the table to a horizontal position, unscrew the fastenings of the file, thread the shield, again adjust it to 38 degrees, adjust the tension... Moreover, the file almost always breaks when there is 3 cm left before the end of the ring.

Second ring, the picture begins to emerge.

Bottom view:

And after the fourth ring, the files ran out. I used one and a half packs. No more, I'm putting it off until tomorrow.

I stopped by the store, bought 8 packs of saws (to be sure there would be enough), and sawed:

I'll move the rings:

Sleight of hand and no fraud, the rings are folded into a vase:

Can be combined with shift. You can make inserts between layers. There are plenty of options.

I start gluing without a bottom for now, to make it easier to sand the inner surface:

Checking the alignment of layers:

I leave it overnight under load:

Result. The surface is rough, but the alignment of the lines is without serious disturbances.
The darkening is traces of sawing with an ultra-thin file (41 teeth per inch), which sank into sawdust and the wood burned.

It is necessary to level the inner surface.
Attempt number one - a steel rod with sandpaper glued to double-sided tape.
Not an option, too flexible.

Attempt number two, sanding drum on the same spindle.
It doesn’t fit either, the machine is lightweight (as I intended it to be). Doesn't hold up, plus it's inconvenient to work with.

Attempt number three. Sanding drum on a flexible sleeve.

The drum is small, sawdust flies where it is least needed, but you can work:

For fine grinding, I collect petals of 400 sandpaper:

But it doesn't polish. I continue with my hands.
It takes a lot of time, the surface is far from ideal.
I discover an error - the penultimate ring is glued with an offset of 180 degrees.
Well, this will be a reminder...In the end, it could have been much worse. Let it add charm - it will be a border. The main thing is that the spacers aligned properly.



The biggest nuisance is the sweat that pours into your eyes and falls onto the vase.

The respirator was once snow-white:

I glue the bottom. To speed up the process, I use my weight with dumbbells in my hands as a press... The vase can withstand more than 100 kg without squeaking, despite its lightness and thin walls. Now I’m thinking, what would have happened if the vase had shattered?

Plywood vase

For work you will need: jigsaw, files, sawing machine, sandpaper, drill or saw, pliers, wire cutters, screwdriver, hammer, BF-2 or wood glue, compass, ruler, pencil, copy paper, buttons, plywood 4 mm thick, round stick with a diameter of 14 - 18 mm, thin cord, some small nails and screws, Oil paint, colorless la To, a sharp knife or scissors and burning machine.

First transfer the development of parts through carbon paper to plywood, while not forgetting about the economical use of material. Draw straight lines with a ruler, round ones with a compass. In the drawings, the centers of the circles are marked with dots, and their radii with arrows.

It is very important to consider in which direction the fibers of the top layer of plywood will be located on the parts! When sawing, a thin trace of a pencil line should remain on the edges from the outside. Thoroughly clean the edges of the parts with a file, and hard to reach places- a file. The tenons must fit tightly into the grooves of the mating parts. Finally, thoroughly sand all surfaces with sandpaper.

Carry out preliminary (without glue) assembly of the products: you need to make sure that everything is done correctly. Only after this, lubricate the parts with glue and connect. Don't forget to remove any spilled droplets.

Queue for painting. If you decorated the parts with an ornament using a burning apparatus, then it is better to cover them with colorless varnish in 2 - 3 layers. And those without decoration, first paint them with oil or aniline paints, and then with varnish.

WALL VASE. cut out parts 1 - 10. Glue parts 2 - 9 into the grooves and slots of part 1. Insert a clean mustard jar into the resulting cavity. The bottom of the jar should rest on part 7. Drive a nail into the wall from the underside of part 10. Use wire cutters to bite off the cap so that the remaining stem protrudes 8 mm. Insert this part with a groove (without glue) into part 1 so that you can periodically remove the jar. The vase is assembled. Hang it on the wall using the hole in the top of part 2.

HANGING VASE. Cut out parts 11 - 14. Glue part 12 into one of the grooves of part 11. Take a clean jar with a capacity of 0.33 liters and put part 13 on its top part, and place the bottom of the jar on part 11. Then glue the upper part of part 12 with grooves into the part 13. Insert the remaining parts 12 and all parts 14 with glue. The vase is assembled. After final processing, the vase with flowers can be hung by the “ears” on three strings in a bookshelf.

Try cutting out a craft like this. Your loved ones will certainly like it by placing it in a visible place, for example, on a shelf. To make this craft you will need the following:
Sawing tools.

Preparing your desktop

First of all, you need to prepare your table on which you will work. There should be no unnecessary things on it and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop and has probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult, but choosing a place for it in the house is difficult. Perfect option- this is an insulated balcony on which you can do crafts at any time. I have already written about preparing the table in a separate article and tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of creating it. If you don’t know how to prepare your workplace, then read the following Article. After you have completed the process of creating a table, try to start choosing your future craft.

We choose quality material

The main material is plywood. The choice is always difficult. Each of us has probably encountered such a problem as delamination of plywood from the end part and asked the question, what causes this delamination? Well, of course, this is mainly due to low-quality plywood. If this is not the first time you have picked up a jigsaw, then you can select plywood from the remnants of a previous craft. If you are new to sawing and you don’t have plywood, then buy it at a hardware store. Choosing material for sawing is always difficult. You should always choose plywood carefully, often look at the defects of the wood (knots, cracks) and draw conclusions. The difficulty in choosing plywood lies in the fact that no matter how you guess at its defects and shelf life. For example, you bought plywood, cleaned it, translated the drawing and suddenly it began to delaminate. Of course, this has happened to almost everyone and it’s oh, how unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention when choosing and choose good plywood. I wrote a special Article in which all the principles of choosing plywood are described step by step.

Stripping plywood

We clean our plywood with sandpaper. As you already know, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” sandpaper is used for cleaning plywood when sawing. IN construction stores You've probably seen sandpaper (or sandpaper), and that's what we'll need. In your work you will need “Coarse-grained”, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” sandpaper. Each of them has its own property, but a completely different coating, by which it is classified. “Coarse-grained” sandpaper is used for processing rough plywood, i.e. which has many defects, chips, and cracks.
“Medium-grained” sandpaper is used for processing plywood after “Coarse” sandpaper and has a slight coating. “Fine-grained” or otherwise “Nulevka”. This sandpaper serves as the final process for stripping plywood. It gives the plywood smoothness, and therefore the plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Sand the prepared plywood in stages, starting with medium-grain sandpaper and ending with fine sandpaper. Sanding should be done along the layers, not across. A well-polished surface should be flat, completely smooth, glossy in the light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare plywood for sawing and which sandpaper is best to choose Read here. After stripping, check the plywood for burrs and small irregularities. If there are no visible defects, then you can proceed to the process of translating the drawing.

Translation of the drawing

For me, drawing translation has always been the main process in my work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for high-quality translation of a drawing. Many people transfer the drawing onto plywood not only using a pencil and copying, but also using “Black Tape”, glue the drawing to the plywood, then wash off the drawing with water and the markings of the drawing remain on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will tell you about the most common method. To transfer the drawing onto prepared plywood, you must use a copy, a ruler, a sharp pencil and a non-writing pen. Fasten the drawing in plywood using buttons or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the clock drawing so that you can use a sheet of plywood as economically as possible. Translate the drawing using a non-writing pen and ruler. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing.

Drilling holes in the parts

As you have already noticed, the parts contain parts of the grooves that need to be cut out from the inside. To cut out such parts, you need to drill holes in them with help hand drill or, the old fashioned way, make holes with an awl. By the way, the diameter of the hole must be at least 1 mm, otherwise you can damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, are sometimes difficult to restore. To avoid damaging your work table when drilling holes, you must place a board under the workpiece so as not to damage the work table. It is always difficult to drill holes alone, so ask a friend to help you in your task.

Sawing parts

There are many rules for cutting, but you need to stick to the most common ones. First of all, you need to cut out the internal parts, only then according to the external pattern. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep the jigsaw straight at a 90-degree angle when cutting. Cut out the parts along the lines you precisely marked. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and unevenness. If you go off the line while cutting, don't worry. Such bevels and irregularities can be removed using flat files or “coarse-grained” sandpaper.

Rest

When sawing, we often get tired. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. When working, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. You can view the exercises here. Do the exercises several times during work.

Cleaning Parts

You should always clean the parts of a future craft carefully. At the very beginning of the work, you already sanded the plywood with sandpaper. Now you have to do a small part of stripping the plywood. Using medium-grain sandpaper, sand the edges of the parts and the back of the plywood. “Fine-grained” sandpaper is considered the final stage of cleaning parts. It is better to clean the front part of the parts with fine sandpaper. When processing plywood, take your time. You can also use a rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean inner part holes. Try to ensure that the parts come out without burrs or irregularities.

Assembly of parts

Assembling the parts of our craft is not so difficult here. In order to implement correct assembly details You need to read the following Article, which describes in detail all the details of the assembly. After the parts are assembled into one common craft without any problems, then start gluing them.

Gluing the parts

The shelf parts must be glued using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue. It is better to tie the assembled craft with glue with a strong thread, tighten it and lay it out to dry. The craft glues together in about 10-15 minutes.

Burning out crafts

To decorate our craft with a pattern (for example, along the edges of the craft), you will need an electric burner. It can be very difficult to burn a pattern beautifully. To burn patterns, you must first draw the pattern with a pencil. You can read how to work with an electric burner and add patterns to a shelf here.

Varnishing crafts

If desired, you can transform our craft by covering it with Wood Varnish, preferably colorless. Read how best to varnish a craft. Try to choose a quality varnish. Varnishing is carried out using a special brush “For glue”. Take your time. Try not to leave visible marks or scratches on the craft.