Belt Sanding Machine Design

Wood is widely used to make all kinds of products and parts. In order to process a wooden piece properly, various equipment is used. Careful, high-precision processing of wood is carried out on belt sanding machines, which, as a working tool, have an abrasive belt .

The design of the grinding unit includes:

1. An abrasive belt that can be positioned horizontally or vertically. It is installed on the frame and placed between the rotating drums.
2. Lead and slave drums. The rotation of the leading drum occurs due to electric motor, which transmits torque through a belt drive. The rotation speed of the leading element, and therefore the speed of movement of the belt, can be adjusted by specially established surface treatment modes.
3. The equipment table can be wooden or metal. More complex workpieces can be sharpened on a metal base.
4. The electric motor should have a power of about 2.8 kW and be capable of providing the belt with a normal speed of 20 meters per second.
5. A special mounting hood must be installed so that during technological process it was possible to remove dust generated during operation.

Length of the machine and its working tools depends on the length of the products. which will be processed on it. It is much more convenient to work with workpieces that are shorter than the working surface.

What are grinding machines used for?

As a rule, the equipment is used for finishing mechanical processing of products on final stages production. Belt sanders can work with both wood and metal.

Woodworking equipment is capable of finally level the surfaces. remove roughness and irregularities in the form of elevations or depressions, remove burrs, grind curves, do internal grinding, achieve even and smooth surfaces of the product.

Metal cutting machines work with non-ferrous metals in the form of flat, round and rectangular blanks and with plain and alloy steel. They are capable of efficiently grinding large-diameter pipes and round timber in a short time.

In addition, belt sanders intended:

• for sanding products before the paint coating procedure;
• for processing bar and panel blanks, their side edges and ends;
• for processing flat surfaces;
• for grinding curved surfaces.

Manufacturing instructions

Having studied the design of the equipment, you should decide what its main elements will be made of.

What to make the bed out of?

It is best to make a desktop from thick iron. The ideal dimensions of the canvas are 500x180x20 mm. However, the larger the dimensions of the frame, the more options various parts it can be processed.

Large work surface will be much more convenient and functional than a small bed. To make it you will need:

1. Cut one side of the canvas prepared for the table using a metal milling machine.
2. Make markings.
3. Drill three holes in the end of the cut piece.
4. Using three bolts, secure the working platform to the frame.

Selecting and installing a motor for the machine

The engine for the unit can be a motor from washing machine. If this is not available, then you can select a motor whose rated power will be up to 3 kW, and the operating intensity will be about 1500 rpm. The power unit for the grinding machine should be tightly and securely fixed to the frame.

Master and slave drums

You can make such elements for a grinding machine yourself from a material such as chipboard. To do this you need:

1. Cut out chipboard sheet workpieces measuring 200x200 mm.
2. Assemble a package 240 mm thick from the resulting blanks.
3. Fold everything and grind it to the optimal diameter of 200 mm.
4. Attach the drive drum to the motor shaft. It will set the tape in motion.
5. The driven drum is secured around the machine axis on bearings. In this case, there must be a special bevel on the side of the drum. This will help ensure that the tape touches softly. work surface.

When making drums, it is worth considering that diameter of their central part should be a couple of millimeters larger than the outer diameter. This is necessary to ensure stable operation of the equipment, since the flexible tape will be located in the middle of the drum.

DIY sanding belt

You can use several sanding strips as a sanding belt. They will need to be cut into pieces 200 mm long and glued together. Ideal option the basis for the canvas will be a tarpaulin.

Having assembled the structure from all the selected elements, you can safely begin processing the wood.

Sanding machine from a hand sander

Taking a hand-held grinder as a basis, the remaining parts of the equipment can be made with your own hands from chipboard, pine and birch bars. The U-shaped stop is glued with PVA glue, the remaining elements of the unit are connected with screws.

The base of the machine can be connected by loops two pieces of chipboard. For greater strength, the hinges are secured with M6 bolts.

The grinding machine is installed to the base using bars, which are pre-fitted to the shape of the body and glued with pieces of rubber on top.

At the front, the sander is secured with suitable sized furniture confirmers. With their help, the grinding plane can be set in the desired position.

The machine is attached to the base from the back with a block and two screws. To ensure that the thrust pad and the grinding plane are in line, pieces of soft rubber can be glued under the body.

In the horizontal part of the U-shaped stop, you can make a groove for moving a small carriage, which may be useful I use an electric planer for sharpening knives .

After securing and adjusting the grinder, the machine can be used.

Having studied the options for making a belt sanding machine with your own hands and strictly following the instructions, you can acquire multifunctional equipment. Such equipment will be capable of not only grinding wood products, but also sharpening any cutting tools.

Homemade wood sanding machine with your own hands

During the manufacture of wooden structures, it is imperative to clean their surfaces. Manual labor will take a long time and will not be productive. Factory grinding centers are expensive. Therefore, in some cases it is more advisable to make the machine yourself.

Drum machine design

Factory grinding machine

Manufacturing should begin with studying the design features of this type of equipment. Grinding machine drum type intended for processing wooden surfaces, their alignment and deburring.

The device belongs to a type of wood surface grinder that performs a calibration function. There are many models and types of equipment. But the main task before making a unit with your own hands is choosing the optimal design. The best option is a detailed acquaintance with factory analogues and drawing up a manufacturing scheme based on the data obtained.

Structurally, the machine should consist of the following components:

• frame. The main parts of the equipment are attached to it;
• power unit. Most often, an asynchronous electric motor is installed for this purpose;
• grinding drum. It is important to choose the correct diameter and method for removing chips. With your own hands you can make a base on which the sanding tape is installed. Or order a cylindrical head with a cutting edge from a professional turner. It all depends on the type of work;
• device for changing the frequency of the motor shaft;
• Desktop. The workpiece will be placed on it. When making a machine with your own hands, experts recommend making this component from fiberglass;

Additionally, drum grinding equipment can be equipped with a mechanism for removing dust and chips from the processing area. It is also recommended to make a working table with a variable height relative to the snare drum. This will allow you to process part of the end of the wooden workpiece.

If grinding the outer or inner surface of the board is necessary, the drum should be positioned horizontally. At the same time, it is possible to adjust it in height.

Types of drum grinding machines

Drum machine for wood with horizontal processing

The next step is to select the design of the wood cutting machine. The main parameter is the shape of the wooden blank and the degree of its processing. Homemade drum-type equipment is designed to form even and smooth surfaces with a small area.

Factory production lines require dedicated processing centers. They have complex functionality and can perform several operations simultaneously. However, their main disadvantage is their high cost. Therefore, as home equipment it is inappropriate to consider them.

The following types of machining centers exist:

• surface grinding. Processing is performed in one plane. Can be used as an example for self-production;
• cylindrical grinding. Designed for processing cylindrical surfaces. For this purpose, the package includes several nozzles with different diameters;
• planetary. With their help, a flat plane is formed on products with a large area.

To complete a small home workshop, surface grinding models are most often chosen. They are distinguished by their simple design, availability of components and relatively quick production.

In addition to leveling, drum sanders can be used to remove layers of paint or varnish. They are used for restoration old furniture or do-it-yourself wooden interior parts.

Making your own grinding machine

Homemade drum for grinding

The simplest model of a do-it-yourself machine is a drill that is mounted on a bed. Sanding cylinders are machined from wood and sandpaper with the required grain size is attached to their surface.

But this design has little functionality. For processing medium volumes, it is recommended to make woodworking equipment according to a different principle. First of all, you need to choose the right power unit. Most often, an electric motor with a power of up to 2 kW and a speed of up to 1500 rpm is used. These requirements are met by asynchronous models, which can be taken from old household appliances - a washing machine or a vacuum cleaner.

Manufacturing procedure homemade machine.

1. Frame. It should be quite stable. Therefore, it is made from sheet steel with a thickness of 1.5 mm or more. As an alternative, you can consider plexiglass with a thickness of 10 mm.
2. The engine is installed so that the shaft is in a vertical plane.
3. Drum for processing. If you plan to perform only grinding work, an abrasive belt is installed on it. For deeper processing, you will need to make a steel cone with a cutting edge.
4. Desktop. It is located at the top of the diagram. It is recommended to make it adjustable relative to a fixed cylinder.
5. Control block. DIY designs rarely provide the ability to adjust the engine speed. Therefore, the block will consist of buttons for turning the unit on and off.

During operation of the equipment, shavings and wood dust will inevitably be generated. You can improve the design by installing a pipe from a household vacuum cleaner into the processing area.

In the video you can see an example of the work of a structure made by yourself:

Example drawings

How to make a grinding machine with your own hands: instructions, description and recommendations

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Belt grinding machine: study and do it yourself

A belt grinding machine is used in cases where it is necessary to perform finishing processing of parts, that is, as equipment for carrying out finishing technological operations. Most often, such machines are used in the furniture industry; they are used to process parts made from various types of wood. But a belt grinding machine can also be used to process metal parts, for which a belt with an appropriate abrasive material is used.

Application areas of the machine

The main tasks performed by the belt grinding machine are: final leveling of the surface being processed, bringing the level of surface roughness to the required level, bringing the processed surfaces to a level of smoothness before coating them with varnish and others. finishing materials. The belt machine is also used to eliminate minor defects of the processed surface: depressions, elevations and burrs, processing finishing coating: removing sagging primer and varnish, burr, sanding internal surfaces, processing of curves on the surface of the part.

A factory-produced option, the drawings of which can be used to create a similar homemade device.

The band saw can be used to process parts made from various materials: wood, plain and alloy steel. non-ferrous metals. What’s convenient is that you can process parts that have different shape: quadrangular, round and flat. Using such equipment, it is possible to process round and tubular parts that differ large diameter its cross section.

Design features of the machine

The working tool of any belt surface grinding machine is a belt on the surface of which abrasive powder is applied. It is made in the form of a ring and is placed between two rotating drums, one of which is the leading one and the second is the driven one.

Rotation to the drive shaft of the tape machine is transmitted from an electric motor, which is connected to it via a belt drive. The speed of movement of the belt mechanism can be adjusted, thereby changing the processing modes of parts. The belt of a surface grinding machine can be positioned horizontally or vertically, as well as at a certain angle, which is allowed by some models of equipment in this category.

When choosing a belt sanding machine model for processing a particular part, it is important to consider the length of the surface that needs to be sanded. It is much more convenient to process parts on such machines whose surface length is shorter than the length of the abrasive belt and work table. If such conditions are met, the quality of processing will be much higher.

A homemade version of the machine is not so difficult to implement in a home workshop

The belt grinding machine can have different designs: with a movable and fixed work table, with a free belt. A separate category includes wide-belt equipment, the peculiarity of which is that their work table, which is also a feeding element, is made in the shape of a caterpillar. In those equipment models that have a work table in their design, the abrasive belt is located in a horizontal plane, and in equipment with a free belt that does not have a work table, it can have a different spatial position.

Compulsory structural element any belt sander, including tabletop ones, is exhaust device, which is necessary to remove dust, in large quantities formed during processing. Both a professional and any homemade grinding machine used in a home workshop or garage are powered by an electric motor.

Principle of operation

The main operating parameters of a belt sanding machine include the feed speed and the force with which the belt is pressed against the workpiece. Parameters such as the degree of grain size of the abrasive belt should be selected depending on the material from which the workpiece is made, as well as the degree of roughness that the surface of the machined product should have.

The characteristics of the material being processed, in particular its hardness, primarily influence the grit size of the abrasive belt to be selected. Processing modes that are directly related to each other are feed speed and tape clamping force. So, if grinding is carried out at high speed, but with insignificant pressing force of the abrasive belt, then some areas of the surface of the part may turn out to be untreated. If, on the contrary, you increase the clamping force and reduce the feed speed, you may encounter the fact that burns and blackening of the material may appear in certain areas of the surface being processed.

Another variation of the machine - view from the working surface of the belt

The results of grinding are also influenced by how well the abrasive tape is glued together. In order to obtain high quality processing and not encounter malfunctions in the operation of the belt machine, you should not use abrasive belts that are glued incorrectly or have torn edges. When putting the tape on the equipment shafts, it should be positioned so that the overlapping end of the seam does not ride up against the surface of the workpiece, but slides along it. Learn more about gluing tape in the video below.

Any, including a manual grinding machine, must provide the ability to adjust the belt tension, which is ensured by moving a movable shaft that is not driven. Tape tension is a very important parameter, when choosing which you should follow the “golden mean” rule. If the sanding machine belt is pulled too tightly, this can lead to its rupture during operation, and if its tension is too weak, it will cause slippage and, as a result, excessive heating. The main characteristic for determining the degree of tension of the tape is its deflection, which is measured by lightly pressing on its surface in a tense state.

A manual belt grinding machine can be serviced by one operator, who moves the work table with the workpiece and rotates it so as to bring all areas of its surface under the abrasive belt.

How to make a belt sander

Many home craftsmen and professionals are wondering how to make a grinding machine with their own hands. The reason for this question is quite simple: the high cost of serial grinding equipment, which not everyone can pay off if not used regularly. In order to make such equipment, you will need several main components: an electric motor, rollers and a reliable frame. Naturally, drawings of such a device or a photo of it would not be superfluous. Also at the end of the article you can watch videos on assembling a tape machine on your own.

The motor for belt grinding equipment is not difficult to find; it can be removed from an old washing machine. You will have to make the frame yourself; for this you can use a sheet of metal with dimensions 500x180x20 mm. One side of the frame should be cut very evenly, since it will be necessary to attach the platform on which the electric motor will be mounted to it. The platform for the electric motor should also be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions 180x160x10 mm. Such a platform must be secured to the frame very securely using several bolts.

Another version of the bed

The efficiency of a belt sanding machine directly depends on the characteristics of the electric motor that is installed on it. If you are planning to make a grinding machine with your own hands, then an electric motor with a power of 2.5–3 kW, developing about 1500 rpm, is quite suitable for you. In order to ensure that when using such an engine sanding belt moved at a speed of 20 m/s, the drums should have a diameter of about 200 mm. What’s convenient is that if you choose an engine with these characteristics, you won’t need to make a gearbox for your grinding machine.

The drive shaft is connected directly to the electric motor shaft, and the second - driven - must rotate freely on an axis, which is installed in bearing units. In order for the abrasive belt to touch the surface of the workpiece more smoothly, the section of the frame on which the driven shaft is installed should be slightly beveled.

You can make shafts for a belt sanding machine from a chipboard with minimal financial costs. Simply cut square blanks of 200x200 mm in size from such a plate, drill central holes in them and place them on the axle with a package with a total thickness of 240 mm. After this, all you have to do is grind the resulting package and make it into a round shaft with a diameter of about 200 mm.

Drawings and detailed analysis of some parts of a machine made of wood.

Wood belt sander (click to enlarge)

Table tilt adjustment mechanism Plate block Belt tensioner Machine assembly

In order for the tape to be located strictly in the middle of the shaft, the diameter of its central part should be 2–3 mm larger than at the edges. And to prevent the tape from slipping on the drum, it is necessary to wrap a layer of thin rubber on it, for which you can use old tire from a bicycle wheel, having previously cut it along its entire length.

The sanding belt for such a machine, the optimal width of which should be 200 mm, is made from ordinary emery cloth. Standard canvas it is cut into strips of the required width, and an abrasive tape is already glued from them. It should be borne in mind that the material is glued end-to-end, for this purpose with reverse side dense material is placed, which will strengthen the resulting seam. The properties of such a seam are greatly influenced by the glue; it must be of very high quality, then the material will not tear along the seam after a short period of use.

Several more options for manufacturing belt grinding machines can be seen in the video below.

Using a homemade belt sanding machine, you can not only process wood products, but also use it for sharpening various instruments: chisels, pruning shears, knives, axes, etc. In addition, such machines can process parts that have a curved surface.

Wood sanding machine - make it yourself or buy it?

One of the main methods of processing wood (after cutting, of course) is sanding. The manual method has been known for a long time - wooden beam The ok is wrapped in sandpaper, and with the help of such a simple device the workpiece is given the required shape.

The method is unproductive and requires considerable physical effort. Craftsmen who work with wood regularly use small-scale mechanization.

Types of grinding machines

A variety of ready-made devices, with which you can process wooden workpieces of any size. To understand the mechanism of operation, consider some of them:

Disc grinding machine

Based on the name, the working surface is made in the form of a disk.


The design is quite simple - a circle with good rigidity is put on the axis of the electric motor. The outer surface has a Velcro coating on which sandpaper is attached. No gearboxes or drive mechanisms are required. The grinding force is small, the rotor axis can handle the load quite well.

A hand rest is installed in the transverse plane, at the level of the center of the disk. It can have a hinged mount, which allows you to process workpieces at a fixed angle.

A feature of disk machines is the adjustment of processing speed without changing the number of axis revolutions. You simply move the workpiece along the radius of the circle. At a uniform angular velocity, the linear velocity at the periphery is higher.

Belt Sanding Machine

Band sandpaper, connected into a continuous strip, stretched between two shafts.


Moreover, the emery in work area does not sag under workpiece pressure. A persistent working plane made of material with a low coefficient of friction is installed under the tape. By pressing the material being processed to the plane, the operator receives an endless abrasive surface.

The quality and ease of processing cannot be compared with manual tools. For mass production wooden products, such a sled is an indispensable attribute of any workshop.

The main feature is the predictable result throughout the entire plane. You can level the ends of a sufficiently long length.

The working surface can be horizontal or vertical, as well as the direction of movement of the belt.

Drum Sanding Machine

Such a device can be classified as a grinding unit with some stretch. The main application is horizontal leveling of planes using the jointer method.


The principle of operation is as follows: sandpaper is attached to one or two drums. The most common method is spiral winding. Below, under the drum, there is a flat table. The distance between the processing surface and the table is adjustable. By setting a fixed height, you can calibrate products of the same type, leveling the thickness of the workpieces.

Two-in-one grinding machine

To save space (and money), manufacturers often combine two types of fixtures in one design.


This not only reduces purchasing costs, but also improves ease of use. When processing one part, you can take advantage of two grinding units at once: disk and belt. In this case, one engine is used, and the load on it does not increase much.

Looking at the finished designs, it becomes clear how to make a grinding machine with your own hands. There are no problems with consumables, so you can immediately design the device for specific tasks. Any universal device loses to a narrow-profile one.

DIY grinding machine

When you have a ready-made (and shareware) electric motor, all the mechanisms are designed around it. If you still have to purchase an engine, it makes sense to choose it according to its parameters.
Main characteristics- definitely power. The revolutions are not so important; they can be adjusted by the pulley (for belt drives) or the diameter of the circle (for disk models).

Calculation of grinding machine power

As an example, consider a belt drive.
Motor power is calculated using a complex formula, but if you have the initial data, it is not difficult to obtain the desired value.

• q – pressure of the workpiece on the working surface of the emery (N/cm²)
• S – area of ​​contact between the workpiece and the emery (cm²)
• K is the coefficient of the working surface of sandpaper in relation to the workpiece. Depends on the grain size and density of the wood. Value limit: 0.2 – 0.6
• k – coefficient of friction of the back side of the emery on the thrust working plane
• U – speed of linear movement of the belt (m/s)
• n – system efficiency.

Important! Traditionally, when making homemade products, calculations are made “by eye”. Then, when you turn it on for the first time, it turns out that the power is either excessive (we shoot sparrows with cannons), or the engine stops at the slightest pressure of the workpiece on the working plane. Therefore, the calculation of parameters should be taken more seriously.

If you decide to create a woodworking machine with your own hands, you will need drawings. The illustration shows how important it is to comply with all standards and dimensions.


Even with a slight misalignment, the machine simply will not work. The tape will “move” to the side, and the motor shaft will vibrate. And the tension unit must be assembled with high precision.

You should also take care of safety (the sharp edge of the sanding tape can cause serious injury when rotating). And sawdust (or worse, wood dust) flying in all directions requires eye protection. Usually a simple transparent screen over the work area is enough.

Homemade wood sanding machine - an example of a successful design

Don't forget about work safety. On top of the rotating disk we attach an arch - a protective casing. This measure is not for aesthetics; touching the rotating disk can break your finger or seriously damage your skin.

Important! The surface of the tool rest must be sanded to perfect smoothness. The varnish coating is undesirable; it will wear off unevenly and the workpiece will be difficult to move.

Similarly, you can assemble a drum machine. It will be useful, for example, when preparing boards for flooring or a wooden table.

The main thing is the massive frame. The support bearings and wide drum are taken from a decommissioned conveyor belt, as is the motor.


The main task is to ensure an ideal horizon between the drum axis and the table top. The working surface is ground until final polishing. It is better to take harder material for the table.

Oak boards are too expensive, so you can use beech. Mandatory drum element grinding machine– table height regulator. The screw mechanism must have a lock to prevent spontaneous unwinding due to vibration.

If the frame is not very heavy, you should secure the legs to the floor. Otherwise, the machine may overturn during work. When processing thick and uneven boards, the force applied is serious.

Conclusion:
There is absolutely no need to spend your savings on purchasing industrial machines. All the designs considered can be made independently.

An electric drill is universal tool, since its chuck can hold not only drills and cutters, but also wooden parts, if the device is used in lathe. Need for drilling machine occurs when a home craftsman needs to drill holes strictly at right angles. In this case, the master is faced with a choice: buy a ready-made stand for drilling or make a machine from a drill with your own hands. We will tell you how to implement the second option.

When making a stand to secure a drill, you need to understand the principle of its operation and show imagination in the manufacture of its individual components.

Rack option No. 1

For example, below are instructions for making a device for a drill from simple scrap materials.

1. To attach the drill to the slide, clamps are used, under which a rubber gasket is placed.
2. To raise and lower the moving part of the slide to which the power tool is attached, a stand with a lever is used.
   
3. To limit the drilling depth, an adjustable stop is installed under the lever.
4. The fixed part of the slide is attached to the pipe using a flange.
   
5. The vertical and horizontal parts of the pipe are connected by an angle. Required when connecting maintain a right angle. The vertical pipe is fixed in a flange screwed to the frame. Instead of a pipe, you can use “kerchiefs” made of chipboard, which are secured to the frame and to the stationary part of the slide using euroscrews (confirmats).
6. On the movable platform it is necessary to make 4 holes for the clamps used to clamp the device body. Also on the side that will be turned towards the stationary part of the rack, it is necessary to glue the slats. For better glide, they are lubricated with paraffin.
   
   
7. To prevent the body of the device from falling down, you can install 2 stops at the bottom, as shown in the figure.
   
   
8. To align the unit body at a right angle, you can glue a rail required thickness(thickness is determined by selection method).
   
   
9. The guides in this design are made of aluminum profile. But you can also replace them with ball (telescopic) guides, which are used to install drawers in furniture. The purpose of the guides is to provide a rigid (without play) and at the same time movable connection of the parts of the rack.
   
   

   

10. To assemble the lever so that it can still move, the nut should not be tightened all the way. To fix the nut and prevent it from unscrewing spontaneously, another one is used, which is screwed next to it.
    
    
11. The part of the lever attached to the movable platform should be rounded at the end.
    
    
12. If you need the unit to rise to the top position after drilling, you can install a spring by attaching one end to the movable platform and the other to the horizontal part of the pipe. If the spring is short, you can lengthen it with a cord.

Rack option No. 2

The figure below shows another homemade drilling machine, the stand for which can be made from thick plywood, and the remaining parts from wooden beams.

The role of the guide in a drilling machine made from a drill is played by aluminum profile. But, if you don’t find such a profile, you can replace it with furniture guides(telescopic).

Rack option No. 3

If you have some lying around your house Soviet era photo enlarger, then it can serve as the basis for a stand for a drill. This design already has rigid guides, as well as a gear mechanism that ensures vertical movement of the carriage along them.

You only need to modify the design a little by attaching clamps to the carriage and comfortable handles to the height adjuster.

Well, if you don’t have the desire to design accessories for a drill with your own hands, or you simply don’t have time for it, but you still need to drill a hole with a drill strictly at a right angle, then you can buy a ready-made stand for about 1,200 rubles.

Other options for drill machines

The drilling machine can serve as a motor for constructing various woodworking tools. Let's look at what other machine you can make from a drill with your own hands.

Fraser

To make a router using a drill, you will need to take a regular clamp used for water pipes.

You will also need to find some chipboard (you can use a board from old furniture), and then assemble a structure like the one in the picture below.

This type of router can be used, for example, for milling a groove in the end of a tabletop, for filling a T-shaped profile, or for shaped milling of the ends of wooden parts. Of course, good quality Milling in this way is difficult to achieve, since the device does not have enough revolutions. For comparison, the spindle of a router can rotate at a speed of 26,000 rpm. and more, due to which high quality surface treatment is achieved.

You can also do milling machine from a drill if you clamp it in such a way as shown in the figure below. In this way, a quarter is selected in a block for inserting glass, for example, when making a window.

To turn small, round parts, you can make a device in which a drill will impart rotational movement to the workpiece. The easiest way to perform wood turning is the one shown in the figure below.

This wood lathe can be made in minutes. To make it you will need a wooden beam or board, a couple of corners, and a sharpened bolt.

A more “advanced” drawing of a lathe, which you can make from a drill with your own hands, is presented below.

If you do not have the opportunity to make such a device from metal, as shown in the drawing, then you can get by a pair of clamps, attached to the workbench.

The first clamp with a clamp can be used to secure the device to the workbench.

As a clamp for a drill, you can use a small vice with a clamp clamped in it. Use the second clamp to clamp the homemade tailstock with a screw screwed into it to center and support the part. The end of the screw should be ground to a cone.

As a tool, a block of the required thickness is pressed against the workbench.

It is also not difficult to design a homemade lathe from wooden blocks, as shown in the following figure.

For precision turning work with long and big details It is recommended to make a lathe from metal profile (square).

When manufacturing this design, it is necessary to accurately maintain the alignment of the headstock and tailstock. The unit can be secured to the headstock with a pair of clamps.

The tailstock must be movable so that parts of different lengths can be processed.

The tool rest should also be movable and move both along the bed and across it so that it can be moved closer to the workpiece to reduce leverage. If the lever is too large, the tool may be torn out of your hands and the part out of the chuck, which can result in serious injury.

It is important that the support platform rotates, for example, when processing a part at an angle.

If you make such a machine, it can easily be converted into a universal one. It is enough to clamp an emery or felt wheel in the device’s chuck, and the structure turns into a grinding machine from a drill. In the same way, you can make a sharpening unit from it.

A simpler model of a universal machine can be easily made from an ordinary planed board. To do this, you need to cut it into parts and assemble the structure, as shown in the figure.

This is what the bed looks like if you remove the table.

The thickness of the board used in the design is 2 cm. The length of the product is 50 cm. The width of the device is 20 cm.

The height of the stands is 9 and 14 cm. The height can be different and depends on the diameter of the grinding wheel that will be used. The entire structure is screwed together with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to coat the joints of parts with glue before assembly.

There are 2 clamps attached to the top of the posts, one of which is cut and bent. A cut piece was used as a soft pad. polyethylene tube, nailed down with nails.

It is necessary to make a small cut (groove) on the frame and widen it from the bottom side so that the head of the coupling bolt does not interfere.

Next, you should twist 2 planks measuring 20 X 27 cm with a block between them, the thickness of which is 4 cm (this way you will get a table). The block is needed so that the hand can move freely between the planes while screwing the table to the frame.

A groove is also cut in one plank to secure the table to the base. After this, the table can be attached using a screw and washer.

Thanks to the grooves, the table can be moved to the required distance to the chuck. If the table is rotated, it will be possible to move it across the machine. The length of the groove determines the distance the table can be moved.

After attaching the drilling machine, you will receive a universal device.

Now, if you clamp the drill chuck grinding wheel— you will receive a grinding unit. The presence of reverse in the unit during grinding is desirable, but not necessary.

If you install abrasive disc (for metal) from a grinder, then it becomes possible to cut metal rods. When cutting metal, be sure to wear safety glasses. You can also install a toothed cutter and use it to cut thin plastic.

When installing abrasive wheel- it turns out to be a sharpener.

This unit can be used for sharpening knives, drills, plane knives, and also for sharpening tools for a wood lathe.

If you fix the guides on the table and install a drill in the chuck, you will get an additive machine.

Thus, the drill, thanks to the clamping chuck, is the basis for creating machines for various purposes. This increase in functionality of a conventional drill will be very useful for home handyman, at whose disposal various technological operations appear.

Grinder (English) literally – crusher. Meat grinder is a meat grinder, rock (stone) grinder is a stone crusher; stick (wood) grinder – garden crusher branches and twigs into chips. But there is also a completely unambiguous meaning of the word grinder: in mechanical engineering and metalworking it is a grinding machine. A useful household item. For example, it is impossible to guide a dull meat grinder knife on a whetstone manually. On a manual knife sharpener - somehow possible, having solid working skills. And on the grinder - no problem. The same applies if you need to polish a part of a complex shape without disturbing its profile. Or just sharpen scissors or a professional knife. Various kinds Wood and metal cutters are best edited on a grinder. It is quite possible to design and assemble a grinder with your own hands, without having complex equipment and skills to work with it. In terms of money, this will mean savings of 50-90 thousand rubles. up to 3-6 thousand USD.

To make a grinder yourself, you will need to order a maximum of 4-5 turned parts, and it is often possible to do without external turning at all. For example, how to make a simple grinder literally out of trash, see the video below:

Video: DIY belt grinder made from trash

Or another option, how to make a stronger and more durable grinder from scrap metal:

Video: scrap metal grinder

Disc or tape? And drive

There are almost more types of grinding machines used in industry than lathes. The emery known to all craftsmen - a motor with a pair of grinding wheels (or one wheel) - is also a grinder. For yourself at home, it makes sense to make either a disk end grinder (plate grinder) or a belt grinder. In the first, the abrasive is applied to a rotating HDD; in the second - on an elastic band running around a system of pulleys and rollers. The disc type is more suitable for grinding simple wooden parts and coarse or medium clean metal parts. Using a belt grinder, it is also possible to produce precise and clean finishing of profiled parts of complex shapes, incl. large-sized, see below.

A disk grinder is very easily obtained from the same emery or a motor of suitable power, see below. You need to order an adapter from the electric motor shaft to the shank of a metal-based grinding disc. Or under chuck, then on the same motor it will be possible to build a mini lathe, see figure:

A worn-out “plate” is suitable: a disk made of thin (4-6 mm) fibrous plastic is glued to the edge of its side, and an abrasive is placed on it. How to make an end grinder, see next. video clip.

Video: homemade end grinder

The difference between a disk and tape grinder is not only in the possibilities of use. If we take ordinary household crafts, then for a disk grinder a drive power of 250-300 W on the shaft is enough. For small wooden parts - and 150-170 W. This is a motor from an old washing machine, a straight (ordinary) drill or a screwdriver. But for belt grinder You will need an engine from 450-500 W: three-phase with batteries of starting and running capacitors. If you plan to process large items, then the motor power is from 1-1.2 kW. Moreover, capacitor batteries for both will cost not much less than the engine itself.

Note: a 100-200 W drive uses a mini-belt grinder (see below) for precise knife dressing, grinding/polishing jewelry, etc.

A drill or screwdriver as a grinder drive is also convenient in that it allows you to quickly change the speed of movement of the abrasive (see below) using a standard speed controller. You just need, firstly, to make a holder for the drill that rigidly fixes the tool. Secondly, an elastic transition coupling from the drill to the disk shank, because It is difficult to achieve their precise alignment without special equipment, and runout will negate the accuracy of processing and can damage the drive tool.

Drawings of a drill holder for using it as a drive for a home metal-cutting machine are given on the left in the figure:

Since shock and irregular alternating loads on the drive in a grinder are an order of magnitude lower than, say, in a lathe, the drill holder for it can be made of hard wood, plywood, chipboard, MDF, on the right in Fig. The diameter of the mounting (large) hole is along the neck of the drill. It is highly advisable to use a drill without an impact mechanism and with a steel shell on the neck (for installing the front handle).

coupling

For the adapter coupling, you will need a piece of steel rod (not necessarily turned) of the same diameter as the shank of the grinder drive shaft, and a piece of PVC-reinforced hose (garden irrigation) with a clearance such that it stretches tightly over the rod and the shank. The length of the “free” hose (between the ends of the rod and the shank in it) is 3-5 cm. The length of the protruding part of the rod should be sufficient for reliable clamping in the drill chuck. After assembling the coupling in place, the hose on the shank and rod is tightened tightly with clamps; can be wired. Such a coupling completely counteracts the misalignment of the drive and driven shaft up to 1-1.5 mm.

Tape is still better

A belt grinder allows you to do everything a disk grinder can do, and much more. Therefore, next we will focus on how to make a belt sanding machine with your own hands. Amateurs, focusing on industrial designs, sometimes make very intricate grinders, see figure:

And this is justified: the design and kinematics of the belt grinder are very flexible, which makes it possible to successfully use scrap materials and old scrap metal. You just need to follow 3 principles:

1. Do not do as in the second photo from the left: the abrasive side of the tape should only touch the workpiece. Otherwise, the abrasive will eat both the guide rollers and itself. The accuracy and cleanliness of processing during one work operation will be unpredictable;
2. The design of the machine must ensure uniform tension of the belt, regardless of the nature of the operation performed;
3. The speed of the belt must correspond to the nature of the operation being performed.

Kinematics and design

As mentioned above, there are many designs of grinders. When considering what and how to build a grinder for yourself, it is better to focus on industrial designs designed to be fully mechanized for precise and clean grinding of large-sized profiled parts: once it “sands” the blade of an airplane propeller or wind turbine properly, it can handle any other work.

Kinematic diagrams of grinders for the specified purpose are shown in Fig.:

Basic kinematic diagrams of belt grinding machines (grinders)

Pos. A is the most complex and perfect, with three rocker arms. If the length of the tension roller rocker arm is approx. 2 times less than the working one, then by adjusting the tension of the springs, it is possible to achieve uniform tension of the tape when the working rocker moves 20-30 degrees up and down. By tilting the bypass rocker, firstly, the machine is reconfigured for belts of different lengths. Secondly, in the same way you can quickly change the belt tension for different operations. The working branch of the belt can be any, except for the one running from the drive pulley to the tension roller, i.e. A grinder with 3 rocker arms is both horizontal and vertical.

The scheme with a coaxially swinging rocker arm (item 2) is simpler, cheaper and in terms of processing accuracy is not inferior to the previous one, if the length of the rocker arm between the axes is at least 3 diameters of the workpiece. To reduce the profile by grinding, the stroke of the rocker arm is limited by stops within 10 degrees up and down. The pressure of the belt to the part is most often gravitational, under the weight of a rocker arm with a bypass pulley. The tension of the belt can be quickly changed within certain limits by pulling the rocker up with a weak adjustable spring, partly compensating for its heaviness. The grinder of this scheme can work as a grinder for small parts from a sliding table. In this case, the rocker arm is rigidly fixed horizontally, and the working surface of the belt will be the one running around the bypass pulley. For example, the fairly popular BTS50 grinder is made using a coaxial rocker design. The disadvantages of the scheme are, firstly, the technologically complex rocker arm joint, which is coaxial with the drive shaft. Secondly, the need for an elastic band: if you make the idler pulley sliding and spring-loaded, the processing accuracy decreases. This drawback when processing small parts is completely eliminated by an additional tension roller, see below.

The scheme with one misaligned rocker arm is used quite rarely in industry, because in principle, it does not allow achieving uniform tape tension. However, it gives accuracy that is quite sufficient at home and allows you to build a very good simple grinder.

What's good for what?

Now let's see what is possible to “squeeze” out of this or that circuit from the point of view of an amateur master. And then we’ll try to figure out how to make a grinder belt ourselves and do without custom-made turned parts.

3 rocker arms

Competent amateurs build their grinders exactly according to the scheme with 3 rocker arms, on the left in Fig. below. Not all propeller blades can be ground, but in this case another advantage of this scheme applies: if the grinder is used as a vertical grinder, then the working branch of the belt is elastic. This allows a skilled craftsman, for example, to guide cutting edges and blades with literally micron precision.

In industrial grinders for home use, the 3-rocker design is also widely used (in the center) for the same reasons. Repeating them yourself in most cases is quite possible. For example, the drawings of the KMG grinder, popular abroad, can be downloaded.

The dimensions are, however, inch - the machine is American. For the drive, in any case, it is possible to use an angle drill-grinder (on the right in the figure, it is quite suitable in terms of power) with homemade pulley and rollers, see below.

Note: if you are making a stationary drive, try to get an asynchronous motor at 2-3 speeds from an unusable washing machine with a horizontal tank. Its advantage is low speed. This makes it possible to make a large-diameter drive pulley and thereby eliminate belt slippage. A belt slip during operation is almost certainly a damaged part. Most washing machines with 2-3 speed asynchronous motors for 220 V are Spanish. Shaft power – 600-1000 W. If you come across one, don't forget about the standard phase-shifting capacitor bank.

Coaxial rocker

Amateurs do not make pure grinders with a coaxial rocker arm. A coaxial hinge is a complicated thing; you can’t make an elastic band yourself, and store-bought ones are expensive. Grinders with a coaxial rocker are most often used at home in the version for small precision work from a table, i.e. with a rigidly fixed horizontal rocker arm. But then the need for a rocker arm as such disappears.

An example is a mini grinder, the drawings of which are given in the figure:

Its features are, firstly, an overhead bed for the tape (item 7), which significantly expands the possibilities of use. For example, the plane iron is straightened on this grinder with an angular stop literally by itself. In this case, the grinder works, so to speak, like a self-propelled whetstone (emery block). Having removed the bed, we get a grinder with an elastic band for precise grinding/polishing of rounded small parts. Secondly, the tension shaft (item 12). By clamping it to the groove with nuts, we get a relatively fixed tension of the tape for working with the bed. And having released the nuts, we switch the grinder to the gravitational belt tension mode for fine work. Drive - not necessarily through a pulley (pos. 11). You can screw it directly onto the drive shaft shank (item 16) from the drill through the adapter coupling, see above.

A specialized tool grinder (for example, for guiding and straightening turning tools) generally loses any semblance of the original design. A high-speed motor is used for it (200-300 W is enough power). The drive pulley is, accordingly, of small diameter. The bypass pulley, on the contrary, is made larger and heavier for inertia. All this together helps reduce tape runout. The tension roller for the same purpose, plus for greater uniformity of belt tension, is moved further away and spring-loaded with a long, not very strong spring. How to make a grinder for processing incisors, see the video below.

Video: grinder for making cutters

One rocker

In amateur practice, grinders with a misaligned rocker arm are good because they do not require precise parts at all. For example, hinges can be made from card loops. At the same time, the processing accuracy remains sufficient for ordinary amateur requests.

In this case, the original scheme is also modified: the rocker arm is turned 90 degrees, moved up and spring-loaded, on the left in Fig. It turns out to be a simple vertical grinder. And, importantly, it works without problems with homemade non-stretchable tape. A tension spring (in the center) or a compression spring can provide tension to the tape. Its strength is not so important, as long as the tape does not bend excessively during operation. No adjustments are required during use.

Consumables and parts

The only consumable material for a belt grinder is the tape (not counting grease for bearings and hinges. The tape can be ordered required length(see at the end), but you can make it yourself from sandpaper on a textile basis. It is highly desirable - flexible, unimpregnated. In general, the procedure for making a grinder belt with your own hands is as follows:

• We cut the workpiece - a strip of the required length and width.
• We prepare a mandrel (not necessarily round) with a length along the generatrix slightly less than the length of the tape.
• We outline the mandrel with the workpiece inside out.
• We bring the ends of the workpiece exactly end to end and securely fasten them.
• Place a piece of glue stick for a hot glue gun on the joint.
• Heat with a construction hairdryer until the glue melts.
• We apply a patch of thin fabric to the joint.
• Press with something hard through the Teflon film until the glue hardens.

There are three significant points here. The first is to use a rough PET film with a thickness of 25-50 microns (sold) instead of fabric for the patch. It is very durable, but just try running your finger across a PET bottle. Not very slippery? Rough PET film cannot be stretched under tension even over polished metal. And instead of a patch, it is better to seal the back of the tape with a continuous strip of PET film with an overlap of 2-3 cm. The runout of the tape will be no more than 0.05-0.1 mm. This is less than from the thinnest calico and even less than the error in the thickness of the blank skin.

Second, insert the finished tape into the machine and grind something indecent with it without strong pressure. The scar on the seam will be sealed, and the tape will become no worse than the branded one.

But the most important thing is elasticity best glue for gluing the grinder tape, it is not expensive and difficult to use thermo- or mounting, but ordinary PVA. If the tape is covered with a lining along the entire length of the back, then its PVA strength will be more than enough. How to glue PVA grinder tape, see video

Video: gluing grinder tape with PVA glue

Pulley

The generatrix (side surface in cross-section) of the grinder drive pulley must be straight. If you use a barrel pulley, the belt will bend like a trough along its entire length. The rollers prevent it from slipping, see below, but the generatrix of the pulley must be straight.

A pulley for a grinder that is not intended for particularly precise work, firstly, does not have to be turned. In a scheme with 3 rocker arms, the beating of the belt from its misalignment will go out on the rollers before it reaches the working branch. In a simple vertical grinder, the beating of the belt will be sufficiently damped by the tension spring. Therefore, it is quite possible to make a pulley for a grinder without a machine, see video:

Video: drive wheel on a grinder without a lathe

Secondly, the pulley, rollers and, in general, all the parts of a home grinder can be made from plywood. In production, this is certainly not an option, even if a plywood grinder is offered for free with an additional payment: the grinder needs a salary, and the wooden grinder in the workshop will completely wear out before it pays for it and itself. But you won’t be running a grinder at home every day in 3 shifts. And no tape slips along the plywood pulley. Incl. homemade. So you can safely make a grinder pulley from plywood:

Video: pulley for grinder made of plywood

It is much more important to correctly calculate the diameter of the pulley based on the engine speed and the required belt speed. A running belt that is too slow will tear the material being processed; too fast - it will erase itself without really processing anything. In which case, what tape speed is needed is a separate conversation, and a very difficult one. In general, the finer the abrasive and harder the material being processed, the faster the belt should move. How the belt speed depends on the diameter of the pulley and motor speed, see figure:

Fortunately, for most abrasive-material pairs, the permissible belt speed limits are quite wide, so choosing a pulley for the grinder can be easier:

Video: what wheel is needed for a belt grinder

Rollers

The rollers of the grinder, oddly enough at first glance, are its most important parts. It is the rollers that keep the tape from slipping and ensure its uniform tension across the width. Moreover, there can be only one video in kinematics, see, for example, the video above about the grinder for incisors. Only barrel rollers can cope with this task, see below. But the “trough” of the belt after any roller must straighten before it reaches the working area.

Rollers with flanges (sides, edges) will not hold the tape. The issue here is not only and not so much with the misalignment of the roller axes: the grinder belt, unlike the drive belt, must withstand the loads from the parts being processed without slipping. If you make videos with flanges, then if you barely touch the tape with something, it will creep onto the flange. In the grinder you need to use Type 3 barrel rollers (highlighted in red on the left in the figure).

The dimensions of Type 3 rollers are also given there. It is advisable to take the diameter of the rollers no more than 0.5 of the width of the tape (so that the “trough” does not go far), but not less than 20 mm for turned steel and not less than 35-40 mm for plywood. The tension roller (the probability of the tape slipping from it is greatest), if the working branch of the tape does not come off it, can have a diameter of 0.7-1.2 its width. Plywood rollers are made in the form of a thick shell into which the bearing is pressed; then the roller is mounted on the axle (in the center in the figure) and processed cleanly, see e.g. track. video:

Video: barrel roller for grinder

Not every turner can turn a profile roller barrel exactly according to GOST even on a machine. Meanwhile, there is a way to make videos for the grinder without significant difficulties. The same PVC-reinforced garden hose will help out, on the right in Fig. previously. A section of it is pulled tightly onto a roller blank with a straight generatrix and cut off with a margin along the edges to the thickness of the hose wall. The result is a roller with a complex profile of the generatrix, which holds the tape even better and gives it a smaller “trough”. Don't believe me? Try to get to an airplane or missile graveyard and dig around in them. You will find rollers with exactly the same generatrix profile. It’s just that mass production of complex profile rollers is much more expensive than Type 3 barrels.

And another option

All critical parts of the grinder - a solid belt, pulleys with a coating that prevents it from slipping, rollers - can be purchased separately. They won’t be that cheap, but still not thousands of foreign ones and not dozens of native leather jackets. The remaining parts of the grinder, either flat or from corrugated pipes, are made using a regular tabletop drill or drill. Here's where you can order parts for the grinder:

• //www.cora.ru/products.asp?id=4091 – tape. Lengths and widths are made according to the customer's wishes. Consult on abrasives and processing modes. Prices are reasonable. Delivery time - questions to Ruposhta.
• //www.equipment.rilkom.ru/01kmpt.htm – spare parts (components) for grinding machines. There is everything, the prices are divine. Delivery - see previous page.
• //www.ridgid.spb.ru/goodscat/good/listAll/104434/ – the same, but foreign made. Prices are higher, delivery is the same.
• //www.pk-m.ru/kolesa_i_roliki/privodnye_kolesa/ – drive wheels. You can find ones suitable for grinding.
• //dyplex.by.ru/bader.html, //www.syndic.ru/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=36 – spare parts for grinders. They do not make ribbons to order - choose from the catalogue. Rollers without axles; axles sold separately. The quality is impeccable, but everything is very expensive. Dispatch - within 2 weeks to the border. Then - their customs, our customs, Rusposhta. Total approx. 2 months It may not arrive if some local bureaucrat considers the product sanctioned. In this case, there are no problems with the return of payment due to the complete absence of real opportunities for the average citizen to receive one.
(2 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Nowadays, there are no surfaces that are not smooth. Smoothness is achieved through various grinding devices. Professional equipment It costs a lot of money and not everyone can buy it; moreover, such machines have a fairly high weight and dimensions.

Fortunately, skillful hands our country has become adept at producing analogues of equipment for such a modest budget. The grinding machine also did not stand aside and was subjected to modernization of manual skills. It is with this homemade machine that we will continue to get acquainted.

There is a huge amount of sanding equipment that can make any wood surface very smooth. It is a frame on which it is located special frame with an electric motor (motors are used for homemade products washing machines ok) and mechanism. The mechanism itself, in turn, includes shafts, pulleys and an abrasive belt.

Application area

They are used in all industries where wood is processed. Often, any rough products have an uneven and rough surface. Such blanks cannot simply be painted and put up for sale or installed anywhere. Therefore, for further processing of wood, all its surfaces can be sanded.

Grinding machines are also used for processing sagging and chamfering, and rounding corners. In addition, the grinding tool gives any surface a smooth leveling and calibration.

Types of wood sanding machine

Depending on the surface being processed, the following types of grinding machines are distinguished:

Belt sanding tool

This equipment uses an abrasive belt that is tensioned by two shafts. These shafts are driven by an asynchronous electric motor. During wood processing, the abrasive belt does not sag, but rests against the working plane, which has a low coefficient of friction. The tape can be positioned both horizontally and vertically. The advantage of this equipment is the processing of long workpieces.

Universal grinding unit

In this case, the machine has two working grinding surfaces. One is a tape surface, and the other is circular (disc). This universal machine created for the convenience of working on it. By the way, this configuration will significantly save your budget. This device uses only one motor. Based on this, when working on two working surfaces, the load on the motor will not increase much.

Drum grinding tool

In this case, the abrasive belt is wound on two rollers in a spiral manner. Under the rollers there is a tabletop with a smooth surface. The gap between the tabletop and the rollers is adjustable to the required distance. Using such a machine, you can calibrate the surface of a wood piece.

Disc grinding tool

The working area of ​​this equipment is an abrasive wheel. A circle with Velcro is attached to the axis of the electric motor, onto which the abrasive is attached. After starting the engine, abrasive wheel rotates around its axis, thereby performing grinding. This type of machine has the ability to regulate the processing speed, and the number of axis revolutions will not decrease.

On each of four types machines can perform certain operations. Now that we have an idea of ​​what grinding equipment looks like, it's time to disassemble the design of the machine.

In addition to the above machines, there are also portable ones. grinding machines . And that’s not all, in order not to spend money on machines, people came up with grinders from a drill, from Bulgarian. The fact is that attachments are attached to these tools and the same grinding is carried out.

Advice: If you still decide to purchase a factory grinding machine, then decide in advance on the work and loads that your device will undergo, and only then make a purchase. The same applies to homemade tools.

Calculation of power for the motor

Important! Before creating any homemade creation that performs grinding functions, it is extremely important to correctly calculate the power of the electric drive. After all, if the motor power is weak or, on the contrary, strong, then you will not be able to do any work.

Power calculation is carried out using a special formula, which belongs to the category of complex mathematical calculations.

The formula is as follows

P=q*S*(K+k)*U/1000*n

Where each designation means the following

1. q - Means the pressure of the processed wood part on the plane of the abrasive blade (N/ square centimeter).
2. k - Index of friction of the seamy side of the abrasive on the working surface.
3. n - Coefficient useful action the entire system.
4. K - Indicator of the working plane of the abrasive relative to the workpiece. The priority is the density of the wood and its grain size. The limits of this indicator range from 0.2 to 0.6.
5. S - The area of ​​the workpiece that comes into contact with the abrasive, measured in square centimeters.
6. U - The speed of rotation of the abrasive, measured in meters per second.

When you calculate using the formula required power electric drive of your future unit, you can safely start assembling the machine as a whole.

It's time to get acquainted with the design of a homemade machine. Blueprints all four types of equipment can be found in free access for viewing and downloading, as well as downloading all kinds of photo scheme. As an example for visual study, consider a belt sanding tool.

Machine design and diagrams

Any assembly homemade equipment begins with the design of the frame or foundation of the future machine equipment. This can be done using metal material or wood material. The standard dimensions of the frame are 500 mm x 180 mm, and the thickness should be 2 cm.

After making the base, you can proceed to the next steps. An asynchronous motor can be installed in several places so that its operation is complete. Prepare a plane on the frame itself or make a platform for the motor, which will be attached to the end of the frame. The other side of the frame is designed to accommodate the shaft, with a pulley for the belt and rollers for the abrasive belt. The tape itself is installed with a slight slope. This is done so that the abrasive comes into smooth and accurate contact with the workpiece plane being processed.

Tip: Before installing the abrasive strip on the rollers, you need to wrap it around thin strip rubber. This will reduce the strip slipping during operation.

As we can see from the diagram and drawing, the design of the grinding equipment is quite simple. All varieties of these machines are assembled according to the same scheme.

Advice: In the process of assembling your future grinding unit, it is necessary to comply with all the necessary dimensions, and also the calculation of all parameters must be done extremely seriously.

When the design is familiar to us, we can move on to the assembly process.

Grinding machine assembly process

To assemble the grinding tool, you will need the following elements:

1. Wood board.
2. Wooden blocks or metal profile pipe.
3. Ball bearings.
4. Electric motor.
5. Rubber belt.
6. Rubber belt.
7. Metal pulley.
8. Self-tapping screws, fasteners.
9. Abrasive element.
10. Working tools (drill, grinder, screwdriver, jigsaw, etc.).
11. Welding machine (if the frame structure consists entirely of metal).

After we have decided on the materials and working tools, we can begin assembling all the parts and elements into one mechanism. To do this, the frame is assembled. It can be metal (consist of a metal profile pipe) or wood (consist of wooden blocks and solid wood).

When the bed is ready

You can begin installing the motor. The motor power should be no less than 2.5 kW and no more than 3 kW, with an engine speed of 1200 to 1500 rpm. A belt pulley is installed on the motor shaft. The motor is installed on one side of the frame. Motors are often used from washing machines used in everyday life.

On the other side

There is a shaft with bearings, on one side of which a pulley is attached, and on the other side a roller, on which an abrasive belt will later be placed. The shaft pulley and motor must be located in a flat horizontal plane. The belt tension mechanism should be located in the same area.

Next from wood

Either a stand is constructed from plywood or metal, on which the remaining rollers will be placed and the sanding tape will be put on. There must also be a tension mechanism. In addition, there must be a working bar against which the abrasive belt will rub.

A start button is installed on the frame, usually at the end. The electrical circuit of the machine must be grounded.

After that

Once everything is done, you can make the first start and configure the equipment properly. When the settings are made, the first workpiece is run and the result of the work is checked. If everything was successful, it means that you did everything right.

For visual clarity and a complete understanding of the entire assembly process, you can download video instructions.

General reviews and summary

As a rule, there are only positive reviews about this type of equipment on the Internet. Indeed, when in everyday life it is necessary to give this or that wooden thing smooth surface, then the presence of grinding tools is indispensable.

Video reviews

Video review of a homemade grinding machine:

Video review on choosing grinding equipment:

Video review of the belt sanding machine:

Video review of eccentric sanders:

Rotation to the drive shaft of the tape machine is transmitted from an electric motor, which is connected to it via a belt drive. The speed of movement of the belt mechanism can be adjusted, thereby changing the processing modes of parts. The belt of a surface grinding machine can be positioned horizontally or vertically, as well as at a certain angle, which is allowed by some models of equipment in this category.

When choosing a belt sanding machine model for processing a particular part, it is important to consider the length of the surface that needs to be sanded. It is much more convenient to process parts on such machines whose surface length is shorter than the length of the abrasive belt and work table. If such conditions are met, the quality of processing will be much higher.

The belt grinding machine can have different designs: with a movable and fixed work table, with a free belt. A separate category includes wide-belt equipment, the peculiarity of which is that their work table, which is also a feeding element, is made in the shape of a caterpillar. In those equipment models that have a work table in their design, the abrasive belt is located in a horizontal plane, and in equipment with a free belt that does not have a work table, it can have a different spatial position.

A mandatory structural element of any belt sanding machine, including a tabletop one, is an exhaust device, which is necessary to remove dust generated in large quantities during the processing process. Both a professional and any homemade grinding machine used in a home workshop or garage are powered by an electric motor.

Principle of operation

The main operating parameters of a belt sanding machine include the feed speed and the force with which the belt is pressed against the workpiece. Parameters such as the degree of grain size of the abrasive belt should be selected depending on the material from which the workpiece is made, as well as the degree of roughness that the surface of the machined product should have.

The characteristics of the material being processed, in particular its hardness, primarily influence the grit size of the abrasive belt to be selected. Processing modes that are directly related to each other are feed speed and tape clamping force. So, if grinding is carried out at high speed, but with insignificant pressing force of the abrasive belt, then some areas of the surface of the part may turn out to be untreated. If, on the contrary, you increase the clamping force and reduce the feed speed, you may encounter the fact that burns and blackening of the material may appear in certain areas of the surface being processed.

Another variation of the machine - view from the working surface of the belt

The results of grinding are also influenced by how well the abrasive tape is glued together. In order to obtain high quality processing and not encounter malfunctions in the operation of the belt machine, you should not use abrasive belts that are glued incorrectly or have torn edges. When putting the tape on the equipment shafts, it should be positioned so that the overlapping end of the seam does not ride up against the surface of the workpiece, but slides along it. Learn more about gluing tape in the video below.

Any, including a manual grinding machine, must provide the ability to adjust the belt tension, which is ensured by moving a movable shaft that is not driven. Tape tension is a very important parameter, when choosing which you should follow the “golden mean” rule. If the sanding machine belt is pulled too tightly, this can lead to its rupture during operation, and if its tension is too weak, it will cause slippage and, as a result, excessive heating. The main characteristic for determining the degree of tension of the tape is its deflection, which is measured by lightly pressing on its surface in a tense state.

A manual belt grinding machine can be serviced by one operator, who moves the work table with the workpiece and rotates it so as to bring all areas of its surface under the abrasive belt.

How to make a belt sander

Many home craftsmen and professionals are wondering how to make a grinding machine with their own hands. The reason for this question is quite simple: the high cost of serial grinding equipment, which not everyone can pay off if not used regularly. In order to make such equipment, you will need several main components: an electric motor, rollers and a reliable frame. Naturally, drawings of such a device or a photo of it would not be superfluous. Also at the end of the article you can watch videos on assembling a tape machine on your own.

The motor for belt grinding equipment is not difficult to find; it can be removed from an old washing machine. You will have to make the frame yourself; for this you can use a sheet of metal with dimensions 500x180x20 mm. One side of the frame should be cut very evenly, since it will be necessary to attach the platform on which the electric motor will be mounted to it. The platform for the electric motor should also be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions 180x160x10 mm. Such a platform must be secured to the frame very securely using several bolts.

Another version of the bed

The efficiency of a belt sanding machine directly depends on the characteristics of the electric motor that is installed on it. If you are planning to make a grinding machine with your own hands, then an electric motor with a power of 2.5–3 kW, developing about 1500 rpm, is quite suitable for you. In order for the sanding belt to move at a speed of 20 m/s when using such a motor, the drums must have a diameter of about 200 mm. What’s convenient is that if you choose an engine with these characteristics, you won’t need to make a gearbox for your grinding machine.

The drive shaft is connected directly to the electric motor shaft, and the second - driven - must rotate freely on an axis, which is installed in bearing units. In order for the abrasive belt to touch the surface of the workpiece more smoothly, the section of the frame on which the driven shaft is installed should be slightly beveled.

You can make shafts for a belt sanding machine from a chipboard with minimal financial costs. Simply cut square blanks of 200x200 mm in size from such a plate, drill central holes in them and place them on the axle with a package with a total thickness of 240 mm. After this, all you have to do is grind the resulting package and make it into a round shaft with a diameter of about 200 mm.

Drawings and detailed analysis of some parts of a machine made of wood.

Wood belt sander (click to enlarge)

Table tilt adjustment mechanism Plate block Belt tensioner