Springs are elastic structural elements that serve to accumulate or dissipate mechanical energy. They surround us from all sides - under the keys of a computer keyboard, in the suspension of a car and in lifting mechanism sofa. The most common coiled compression springs. There are several ways to make them.
Coiled compression springs
Elastic elements can have various spatial forms. Historically, the first springs mastered by man were leaf springs. You can still see them today - these are the springs of heavy trucks. With the development of technology, people have learned to make more compact coil springs that work in compression. In addition to them, spatial elastic elements are also used.
Design features
Such springs during operation take the load along their axis. IN home position there are gaps between their turns. The applied external force deforms the spring, its length decreases until the coils touch. From this point on, the spring is an absolutely rigid body. As the external force decreases, the shape of the product begins to return to its original shape until it is completely restored when the load is removed.
The main characteristics that describe the geometry of the part are:
- The diameter of the rod from which the spring is wound.
- The number of turns.
- Winding step.
- The outside diameter of the part.
The external shape may differ from the cylindrical one and represent one of the figures of rotation: a cone, a barrel (ellipsoid) and others
The winding pitch is constant and variable. The winding direction is clockwise and counterclockwise.
The cross section of the coils is round, flat, square, etc.
The ends of the turns are ground to a flat shape.
Area of operation
Helical coil springs of constant outer diameter and constant pitch are used more widely than others. They are used in areas such as
- Engineering.
- Instrumentation.
- Vehicles.
- Mining industry.
- Appliances.
and in other industries.
spring requirements
The following properties are required for the work to function effectively:
- high strength;
- plastic;
- elasticity;
- wear resistance.
To ensure the design values of these parameters, it is required to choose the right material, accurately calculate the dimensions, develop and comply with the manufacturing technology.
State standards determine the requirements for the manufacture of springs. By tolerances they belong to one of the accuracy groups:
- less than 5%;
- less than 10%;
- less than 20%.
Strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of compliance with geometry, surface cleanliness.
Products do not meet the standard with scratches and other external defects that reduce the resource of the product and its service life
material requirements
The strength parameters and fault tolerance of the product are largely determined by the material from which they decided to make it. Metallurgists distinguish special spring steels in the classification of steels. They have a specific crystal structure, defined as chemical composition, and the thermal treatment of products. Highly alloyed alloys of increased purity and high metallurgical quality provide high elasticity and ductility, and are able to maintain their physical and mechanical properties after repeated deformations.
Spring alloys 60C2A, 50HFA and stainless steel 12X18H10T gained popularity among mechanism designers.
Technology Features
The technological process of manufacturing elastic elements depends on technical requirements applied to the design. Making a spring is not as easy as making a regular part, which does not have to have special elastic properties. This requires special equipment and equipment.
The winding of springs with a round section of the coil is carried out by the following methods:
- Cold. It is used for small and medium sizes (wire diameter up to 8 millimeters).
- Hot. For large diameters.
After winding, the elastic elements are subjected to various types heat treatment. In its course, the product acquires the specified properties.
Cold winding technology without hardening
First you need to do preparatory operations. Before winding a workpiece from a wire, it is subjected to a patenting procedure. It consists in heating the material to the plasticity temperature. This operation prepares the wire for the upcoming reshaping.
During the winding operation, the following parameters must be maintained:
- The outer diameter of the product (for some parts, the inner diameter is normalized).
- The number of turns.
- Winding step.
- The total length of the part, taking into account subsequent operations.
- Compliance with the geometry of the end turns.
Next, the end turns are ground to a flat state. This must be done to ensure high-quality emphasis on other parts of the structure, to prevent their destruction and slippage of the spring.
Next stage technological process- heat treatment. Cold winding of springs provides only for tempering at low temperatures. It allows you to increase elasticity and remove mechanical stresses that have arisen during winding.
It is extremely important to follow the design heat treatment schedule exactly, by carefully controlling the temperature and holding time.
After heat treatment, it is necessary to carry out test and control operations.
Further, if necessary, can be applied protective coatings preventing corrosion. If they were applied by the galvanic method, the products are reheated to reduce the hydrogen content in the near-surface layer.
Cold winding technology with quenching and tempering
The first stages of technology coincide with the previous process. Changes begin at the heat treatment stage. It is carried out in several stages:
- hardening. The workpiece is heated to a predetermined temperature, kept for 2 to 3 hours. Then subjected to high-speed cooling, immersed in a container with mineral oil or saline. During the hardening stage, the blanks must be in a horizontal position. This will avoid out of deformation
- Vacation. The workpiece is heated to 200-300° and held for several hours to relieve internal stresses and improve the elastic properties.
Further, measurement and control operations are also carried out. The blanks that have passed the control are sent to sandblasting for descaling. If necessary, shot blasting should also be done to increase the strength of the surface layer of the metal.
Completes the process of applying a protective coating.
Hot coiling technology with quenching and tempering
Before coiling, the workpiece is heated to the plasticity temperature by one of the following methods.
- muffle furnace;
- gas-burner;
- high frequency heating.
Heat treatment includes hardening and low-temperature tempering.
Heat treatment graphs are built based on the properties of the material and the dimensions of the workpiece.
To make an elastic element, specialized equipment is required. These are winding machines. You can make a detail on a regular lathe, but it will require additional equipment with special equipment. Medium and large series are made on semi-automatic plants that operate with minimal operator intervention. You can also make a spring out of wire by hand. This will also require special equipment.
At the next stage of machining, the ends are ground on face grinding machines. For single production or small series, this can be done with a grinding wheel.
Heat treatment is carried out using mandrels that prevent product deformation in specialized furnaces for quenching and tempering. Both operations can be done in a universal oven.
Loading units are used for quality control and measuring complexes. With a single production, measurements can also be made with a universal tool.
In large cities, you can see on the playgrounds all kinds of rocking chairs of bright colors in the form of beautiful figures of animals or models of cars, boats.
All children's rocking chairs have one thing in common - their design includes a spring from automobile springs. And the larger the spring, the better, as the swing amplitude increases.
HOW TO MAKE A ROCKING CHAIR
Automobile springs for a children's rocking chair can be purchased at a scrap metal collection point or at enterprises where cars are in operation, for example GAZ-31.
The most important thing in this design is the fixing of the spring-spring on the ground and the place where the child sits on the toy. In the figure you will find a diagram that shows that flanges are welded to the spring and to a thick metal pipe d 90 mm and 600 mm long.
Flanges are welded on the pipe at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge. To the other edge metal pipe(anchor) two rods of thick reinforcement are welded at an angle to the pipe and to each other at 90 degrees. Dig a hole 1 meter deep, lower the pipe with welded reinforcement bars and fill them with concrete in a ratio of 1/2/3 (cement, sand, gravel). The stability of the rocking chair will depend on the length and thickness of the reinforcement welded to the pipe.
Calculate the height of the rocking chair from the age of the child. It can only be at the height of the spring or raised above the ground due to the height of the pipe for which the spring will hold. After the solution has completely hardened, put the spring on the pipe (anchor) with a welded flange and fasten it to the pipe 10-15 cm. For strength, secure it with a clamp or wire.
From moisture-resistant plywood, make a seat in the form of any figure that your child likes - and secure it with clamps to the spring. Paint the seat and spring in bright colors.
MANUFACTURING OF THE ROCKING CHAIR
FROM A SPRING
The second version of the description of the rocking chair based on the spring- automotive spring. And on the basis of a rocking chair for kids from 3 to 7 years old, you can use a spring from a GAZ-31 car from the front axle.
To attach the spring, take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 90-120 mm. Weld two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 20-120 mm and a length of 500 mm to its base. Dig a hole and install a cross with a pipe in it, fill everything with concrete mortar.
To the lower boss with a diameter of 90 and the anchor, weld flanges with a diameter of 180, which are connected by three M16 bolts.
SEAT TO ROCKING CHAIR WITH A SPRING
From moisture-resistant plywood, make a seat with a triangle back with sides of 20 mm and rounded edges. . Attach the seat to the main form. Fasten in series: clamp-strip 6 mm, 50 mm wide with M6 bolts. Press the spring with two clamps against the boss from a 4 mm strip 30 mm wide.
The footrests for the rocking chair and the handles are made of M18 studs, they have a rubber hose on them.
Rocking chairs on a spring are very popular now. They have different shape and the kids really like it. You can also buy ready-made rocking chairs in online stores, in children's toy stores and mount them yourself in your dacha or country house.
By Eastern calendar the mistress of 2030 is a yellow dog. Have you already gathered in the nearest store to search for themed souvenirs? Stop giving unnecessary little things.
Check out a selection of unique master classes and detailed lessons for both beginners and experienced needlewomen. Using them, you can easily prepare Original gifts with your own hands.
If you don't feel confident enough to jump straight into complex crafts, try making a funny dog out of a long balloon.
Its manufacturing process is very simple. Follow step by step instructions- and you will definitely succeed.
Now you know how to make a sausage ball dog. This cutie will delight the little ones. Practice a little and you will be able to turn an ordinary ball into a funny toy under their enthusiastic looks.
coffee dog
Sew a charming toy - a symbol of the New Year. A textile dog made by your own hands will be an unforgettable present for friends and family.
For work you will need:
- white calico 50*50cm;
- filler (cotton wool or balls);
- PVA glue;
- instant coffee;
- brushes and acrylic paints;
- needle and thread;
- patterns.
Patterns are printed or redrawn. You can take them in full size, as in the picture, you can scale. If you increase the pattern, increase the amount of fabric accordingly.
- Transfer the pattern to the calico and cut out in duplicate. Sew the pieces, leaving an opening for turning.
- Turn the blanks inside out, fill with soft filler. Sew up the hole with a blind stitch. Don't stuff the dachshund's ears too tightly.
- Sew the ears to the workpiece.
- Dilute a tablespoon of instant coffee in three tablespoons of boiling water. In the cooled mixture, add a pinch of vanillin (not vanilla sugar, namely vanillin!) And a tablespoon of PVA.
- Use a brush to paint the toys, blot excess moisture with a paper towel.
- Dry the blanks in an oven preheated to 75 ° C for 10 minutes. You can also use a hair dryer to dry.
- Add half a teaspoon of brown acrylic paint to the rest of the coffee mixture. Draw spots on the toys, as fantasy tells.
- Dry items again. Then decorate the muzzles: draw eyes, noses and mouths. Let the paint dry and cover the eyes and nose with acrylic varnish.
Fragrant charms are ready. You can sew them together with your children. This is a great activity for interesting and useful leisure.
Cushion-dog
Do you want a pet more impressive than a small pocket dog? Treat yourself to an original interior pillow in the shape of a sleeping dog.
The product diagram is shown in the photo. Redraw the details on a large sheet of paper. You can choose any size.
Choose textiles: the color and texture depends on your imagination, but the material should be quite dense.
Transfer all the details to the fabric and cut them out. Sew the details of the body (if it is not from a single piece of matter), sew the halves of the tail to them.
Embroider or sew on a typewriter the eyes, mouth and nose of the doggie.
Process and sew ears to the head. They do not need to be filled with filler.
Sew the body parts along the bottom, leaving an opening for stuffing the pillow. Sew a hidden zipper into it.
Pass the top seam from the nose to the tail.
Sew paws and fill with filler. Pin them in the right places to the body, after turning it on the front side.
Turn the pillow inside out, sew the remaining seams. Cut and cut allowances on convex and concave elements.
Turn the pillow inside out through the zipper and stuff. Sleepy dog is waiting for his master!
Fluffy pom-pom dog
Do you like small and fluffy pets? Get yourself an adorable puppy made of thick knitting threads.
For work you will need:
- two colors of thick threads;
- beads for the nose and eyes;
- scraps of felt or felt;
- scissors;
- glue.
Make three pompoms, 2 of the same size, the third one is smaller and a different color.
Trim the pom poms carefully so they don't get frizzy.
Give one of the large pompoms a slightly elongated shape. This will be the dog's head. Glue a small pom-pom to it.
Glue the eyes or nose to the muzzle. If you want to tinker - make small pompoms, no - take beads.
Tie your head to your body.
Cut out the ears from the felt and glue the toys to the head.
You can decorate the finished puppy with a collar, New Year symbols or tie a voluminous bow.
Yellow felt terrier
Do you want to make a pattern of an original fabric dog with your own hands to please your friends with an unusual present? Use this detailed tutorial to create a cute toy puppy.
For work you will need:
- yellow felt;
- sharp scissors;
- chalk or bar of dry soap;
- needle with yellow thread;
- filler;
- braid;
- collar pendant;
- rhinestones or beads for the eyes.
Print or redraw the pattern of details. Transfer the outlines to the felt and cut out the blanks.
Sew a detail with a belly and paws to the body of the dog with an overcast seam, aligning the edges.
Leave 5 mm unsewn at the beginning and end of the seam for further processing.
Sew the second part of the torso to the paws in a mirror image.
Connect the components with the stomach to each other and sew.
This is what it looks like from underneath.
Start sewing the chest and head of the toy, starting from the junction of the stomach.
Stop in the middle of the top of the head. Now we need the last detail.
Attach it with a short part to the dog's head. Side details - inner side ears, and the long part is the neck.
Sew the part along the contour alternately to both parts of the head of the toy.
It is necessary to achieve such a result (top view).
Fill the product with filler through the unsewn opening at the back.
Straighten the body of the toy and sew it up.
Glue the eyes on the muzzle.
Take a small piece of string for the collar. Glue or sew it to the dog's neck. Optionally, add a pendant to the collar.
A real dog is ready to serve.
Sew a few of these toys, decorate them with different pendants. A wonderful idea for a children's or themed Christmas gift, isn't it?
If you want to give your imagination even more space, download patterns and templates for cute dogs. Give yourself the joy of creativity and wonderful crafts to your loved ones. Everyone will be happy with such pets.
option number 1
option number 2
option number 3
option number 4
Cool dachshund and twine rat
Wonderful and funny souvenirs are easy to make with your own hands, even from improvised materials. This detailed step-by-step mk is proof of that. Make a symbol of 2030 and please your friends with funny toys.
For work you will need:
- cardboard roll from cling film or foil - the basis of the body;
- large paper clips for paws;
- leg-split;
- glue Dragon or glue gun;
- polystyrene foam or polystyrene for the head of the product;
- masking (paper) tape;
- awl;
- sandpaper;
- pliers.
- For the body of the animals, cut pieces of the desired length from the cardboard roll. Straighten the long paper clips, bend the loops at their ends for the stability of the paws. Make holes in the body with an awl, stick the paws into them and twist the ends with pliers to fix their position inside the cylinder. Stuff the body tightly with scraps of newspapers or paper napkins, seal the holes with tape.
- Make the tails of the little animals from a piece of a straightened paper clip: wrap it tightly with twine, smearing it with glue. Poke a hole in the body, insert the tail and fix it with glue. Or weave a pigtail out of twine, coat with glue and dry in the desired position, then glue it to the body. Wrap the paws tightly with twine in two layers. Start wrapping from the bottom of the first paw, then glue the twine along the animal's abdomen to the second paw, go down it, go up to the stomach again and go down the first paw in the same way. Treat the second pair of limbs in the same way.
Wrap the body, smearing it with glue from a gun or Dragon.
- Cut out a teardrop shape for the head from a piece of Styrofoam or thick Styrofoam. Sand her down sandpaper, wrap with tape, and then with twine.
- Here's what the heads look like. Make a nose for a dachshund by wrapping several layers of twine around the tip of a toothpick.
- Draw the outline of the ear on paper and put the sheet in the file. Put a little glue in the center of the template, dip the tip of the twine into it. Using a toothpick, make curls that fit snugly together until you fill the entire space of the drawn blank. Similarly, make the second ear. Let them dry completely.
- Glue the ear blanks and noses to the heads of the animals.
- Using a piece of paper clip, connect the head to the body. Spread the paper clip with glue and wrap it with twine, repeat the procedure again for strength.
- Decorate the muzzles of the animals as desired: draw or glue eyes, cilia, mouths.
- Another idea for your piggy bank is to make a dachshund figurine with leather ears.
Such cute crafts will become not only sincere New Year's gift but also the highlight of your interior.
felt magnet
A small souvenir made with love is a great gift for loved ones for any holidays. From this master class you will learn how to make a felt dog magnet with your own hands.
For work you will need the following materials:
- magnet of any shape;
- fast drying adhesive;
- felt in two contrasting colors;
- glue for felt (it is optimal to use "Moment Crystal" or transparent "Contact");
- black threads of medium thickness;
- 3 black beads for the nose and eyes;
- thick cardboard for the frame.
Prepare the tools for work:
- scalpel or cutter;
- scissors with a sharp blade;
- simple pencil;
- dry soap or chalk for contours;
- black gel pen.
Choose a drawing of a dog of the desired breed or use the suggested option. print image right size on the printer or draw the outlines by hand in duplicate. Cut one pattern into patterns.
Transfer the outline of the dog to the black felt. Cut out 2 identical pieces.
Carefully stick white elements on the black part.
If you are not chasing the maximum realism of the finished craft, just sew on the nose and eyes, and embroider the muzzle with threads.
If you are not looking for easy ways, mark the desired location of the eyes with chalk and make small incisions in these places with a scalpel.
To the landfill! Spare parts from it can be useful in everyday life.
1 of 17
Car hood headboard
Look closely - the headboard of this bed is actually an old car hood! Built-in shelves behind the hood offer comfortable spot for storing books and small things.
2 of 17
Bench made of springs and parts of a pickup truck
The product of a collaborative effort between an interior designer and a mechanic, this is a one-of-a-kind bench made from old back door, springs and springs.
3 out of 17
Holder for papers and small things
The space between each coil spring can be easily used to store files, documents and small items on your desk.
4 out of 17
Antique car cans and canisters
Old jars, canisters and oilers from Europe, America or the USSR can decorate your shelves and give them a vintage charm.
5 out of 17
License plate like a birdhouse roof
Even our feathered friends appreciate good treatment and Beautiful design! Make them a birdhouse, an old license plate will come in handy for the roof. The cheerful one from the States is best suited. It is more colorful and wider than our analogues.
6 out of 17
Use the ramp as table legs
Yes, you can turn old parts into amazingly chic furniture.
7 out of 17
Decorative car caps
A little imagination and diligence, and such beautiful plants can appear in your garden in the country. It is not necessary to water them. The stems are from a broken shovel handle, the flowers are from car hubcaps, the leaves are from the blade of a shovel.
8 out of 17
Steering wheel instead of cornice
Run the curtains through an old tractor wheel mounted on the wall and you have some pretty curtain rods. Screw tighter, the steering wheels from tractors are heavy.
9 out of 17
Motorcycle headlight as a lamp
Let the old headlights keep on glowing, turn them into retro lamps with extraordinary retro charm.
10 out of 17
Tractor rim for ottoman
To give the tractor rim new life as a cozy piece of furniture, paint it and install an upholstered seat. The ottoman is ready.
11 out of 17
Tire instead of a flower bed
Have you ever thought that old tire can look so pretty? All you need is a can of spray paint, a chain and a hook to make this amazingly beautiful flower bed.
12 out of 17
Tires instead of a bench
Tired of the bench by the porch? Take car tires, paint them bright colors, add soft seats and pretty pillows. Comfort created!
13 out of 17
License plates can decorate the stairs
prim2005 26.01.2013 - 15:19
Help whoever can 😊
Like this
forests spirit 26.01.2013 - 15:26
He made all sorts of tricky springs from springs from a mattress - pluses in larger diameter turns-less irregularities in the end. I can’t say anything about hardening, I haven’t tried it.
Trident8 26.01.2013 - 15:27
Heat thoroughly until red 810-830 - and into oil. Then release in the oven at 200 minutes 20 - and into the air. Check if you do not like the result - change the mode a little in one direction or another.
Romario_omsk 26.01.2013 - 15:36
when I assembled the grinder, the question arose about the spring, because from the brake pads was too long, I cut it in half, then bent the coil and heated it to gas burner(like a pencil, the area is not large, she no longer needs it), molded it onto a hot "loop" and then "hardened" it by lowering it into water, because not hardened was too soft ....
BUT without a vacation, she became fragile and broke off ....
then he repeated the procedure with the other and made a "vacation" also, so as not to spoil the entire spring with a pencil, brought it to tint colors and cooled it in the air ....
works fine....
you have a larger part, but you can heat and release the whole thing in the oven, but you also need to heat it either in the forge or with a larger burner ....
prim2005 26.01.2013 - 15:36
To make from a ready-made spring, I don’t have enough health, the bending radii are approx. 3mm.
I tried to heat with a vacation - it breaks at the first attempt to compress or stretch. 200 deg. probably not enough
alex-wolf 26.01.2013 - 15:38
Trident8Springs need a different one temperature regime even I know this. 😊
Then release in the oven at 200 minutes 20 - and into the air. Check if you do not like the result - change the mode a little in one direction or another.
here it is available, for understanding and by the color of the tarnish, you can try to make a vacation with a burner spring. it's about 300-500 degrees on vacation
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 16:29
prim2005
The priest had ... In short, there was a tricky spring, but I fell in love with it somewhere along the way. Picking up another is unrealistic, you need to do it. I tried to bend it out of an ordinary twisted spring, as it does not work out very well. I annealed the workpiece, it turns out to be more fun to bend, but you need to heat it up. That's the question: how at home with a minimum thermal equipment harden the spring properly.
Bar diameter 1.5mm, overall size springs 40mm X 15mm (in one plane).
Help whoever can 😊
What metal is the spring?
prim2005 26.01.2013 - 16:40
What metal is the spring?The most common is H.Z. 😊
dru029 26.01.2013 - 16:56
prim2005very interesting!The most common is H.Z.
TEA737 26.01.2013 - 17:13
ShalimAmong the bourgeoisie 1095 is the most common, we probably have U8-U10 judging by the composition.
What metal is the spring?
Va-78 26.01.2013 - 17:51
Considering that the question is surprisingly often repeated, I will quote myself - from the fact that I communicated in the PM:
%username% hello!
Ordinary fastening pins are very well suited for making all kinds of small knife-type springs. Due to the fact that they are produced in different sizes and with different thicknesses of the bar, you can almost always choose the right one for yourself. Plus, if you rivet them a little, you can get flat springs - sometimes it's also useful.
Bottom line: take a pin, heat it for gas stove to red (even a little orange) color and gently straighten with pliers. Let the pin cool down by itself - then it will groan soft. You will get a more or less straight twig.
Further, when the piece of iron is soft, we bite off the ear and the point that we do not need with wire cutters. We heat it again (to the same color) and on some anvil (for example, the flat part of the dumbbell pancake), carefully straighten the twig with a hammer completely. Heated, it is very easily deformed, so we roll little by little.
When we have completely straightened the piece of iron, we measure and bend the desired shape of the spring with the help of pliers. Before bending, it will be good to heat it up again and naturally cool it down - the spring will last longer there, since this will insure us against the possible appearance of microcracks.
Now that the twig has been given desired shape, you need to return its spring properties. To do this, again warm it up to an already familiar color and cool it sharply. You can just chill it in water.
After that, our workpiece will be very hard, but brittle. Therefore, we take a fine sandpaper (approx. # 300-400) and clean the part from the scale - so that you can see the shiny metal.
Again we bring it to the fire - this time not directly into the flame, but a little from the side. The task is to catch the moment when a color wave rolls along the spring, the so-called. "runaway". We are interested in yellow.
As soon as the piece of iron turned yellow a little (not from "incandescence", but precisely from "heating") - immediately put it aside and let it cool down naturally.
Everything, the steel again acquired spring properties.
If it is desirable to get a stainless spring, then after heating we lower the part into any machine oil so that it cools down completely there (the twig is thin and this is literally a minute of time). Then it must be held above the flame, at a height where the oil will ignite. It is important not to overheat, otherwise the spring will be too weak. Those. we place it high above the fire, and then we lower it a little (first, the oil smokes - this good sign, so it’s already nearby) - as it broke out - we withstand a couple of seconds and the piece of iron away from the fire. When the oil burns, it forms a strong film on the metal, which will not allow it to oxidize. To further enhance this effect, we dilute a couple of drops of epoxy, and wetting a piece of cloth or leather in it, we wipe our finished spring. Epoxy will cling to the layer of burnt masa to death, and due to the thin, pre-thin layer, it will not crack. This will enhance the anti-corrosion properties.
That's all in general. More to describe than to do.
Yes, - if the diameters of the pins are not enough, then any other thin springy nishtyaks can be processed in the same way - for example, springs from Soviet clamshells give excellent results. One straightened spring from there is approx. 40cm bar.
The first time you probably won’t succeed, but a couple of attempts (so that the eye gets used to catching the color and heating time) and everything will be OK.
Devilishly your...
P.S. the technology has been tested many times, but only used old pins, now the Chinese can make devil knows what - they bought Chinese needles - they bend like a pipets. It makes sense to gut "grandmother's reserves", otherwise it's completely bad.
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 17:53
TEA737
Among the bourgeoisie 1095 is the most common, we probably have U8-U10 judging by the composition.
I meant T.S. from which piece of iron he wants to make a spring.
U8 is so hot on the spring, 60c2a is different, 65g is third.
And then I look the specialists have already advised. Heat up, dip in oil...))))
Va-78 26.01.2013 - 18:19
U8 is so hot on the spring, 60c2a is different, 65g is third.Yes, what are there "differently"? You read the OP's question:
... as at home, with a minimum of thermal equipment, temper the spring correctly.
The bar diameter is 1.5mm, the overall size of the spring is 40mm X 15mm (in one plane)...
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 18:25
Well, yes, you please hell with the temperature, because such a diameter on gas will instantly heat up to uncontrollably high temperature. Why did I lose sight of this moment)))) Here it’s only by the method of scientific poke, there’s no other way.
Romario_omsk 26.01.2013 - 20:07
VA is right, the color he called yellow I would call straw...
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 20:18
Release the spring to purple - about 400 gr. Less nozzy - burst)))
Trident8 26.01.2013 - 20:32
I gave the mode for 65G. The tempering temperature can be increased up to 400 if it breaks down.
max12312 26.01.2013 - 20:38
alex-wolf 26.01.2013 - 20:46
max12312Cool, you have to remember. 😊
so as not to yawn temperament at such small detail. I put the piece of iron, cleaned after hardening, on a 10mm steel black-rust disc)) and heat the disc, the color will go very slowly and you will get what you need without straining
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 20:49
Well, so the thin blades are fired, let the current at home be released on gas, it’s enough to heat the blank, but it’s unlikely to harden it. And the cross section is so small that it is unlikely to be repeated, since the carbon will burn out instantly.
max12312 26.01.2013 - 21:12
Duc and the blades are thin Kalat,I told you about a smooth, uniform vacation without extra effort, because the correct release for the spring is critical. and it can be hardened classically. 1.5 is not such a thin detail, I usually do the hardening of such small details in this way, I tie it with a thin wire and heat it with a burner right above the hardening medium (poured into a tall beer can) and when it gets hot I just drop the part into the can. respect.
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 21:35
I told you about a smooth, uniform release without any extra effort, because the correct release for the spring is critical. and it can be hardened classically. 1.5 is not such a thin detail, I usually do the hardening of such small details in this way, I tie it with a thin wire and heat it with a burner right above the hardening medium (poured into a tall beer can) and when it gets hot I just drop the part into the can. respect.
I'm talking about hardening in the mountain))))
By the way, when heated for hardening, you should not force events either)))))
max12312 26.01.2013 - 21:44
I'm talking about hardening in the mountain))))I have a wonderful book .. a thermist's handbook .. it helps a lot, but everyone has their own subtleties. 😛
By the way, when heated for hardening, you should not force events either)))))
Shalim 26.01.2013 - 21:57
I have a wonderful book .. a thermist's handbook .. it helps a lot, but everyone has their own subtleties.
Who is arguing?
And the book is amazing.
prim2005 27.01.2013 - 03:05
Thanks to all who responded. I will experiment.
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