Pelargonium zonal, well known to every flower lover, is often not quite correctly called geranium. This decorative culture has been one of the first places in the world industrial floriculture for many years.
To date, the genus Pelargonium has about 280 species. Basically, these species grow in various parts of South Africa. The most famous of them is zonal or garden pelargonium. This complex hybrid was obtained as a result of numerous crosses, in which almost 200 species participated.
Pelargonium zonal - perennial culture , in open ground in our latitudes is used as annual, in rooms it can grow and develop over many years.
In the garden pelargoniums are planted not only in flower beds, but also in hanging containers along with fuchsias, lobelias and other crops. They grow and develop well in portable outdoor containers.
From the very beginning of its cultivation, zonal pelargonium attracted attention with its abundant and spectacular flowering. As a result of the work of breeders, a huge number of various shapes and colors were obtained (tall and dwarf species, plain and variegated, simple and double flowers).
Now this culture still retains its leading position in the world's industrial floriculture. IN Lately new varieties and hybrids of pelargonium have appeared, which are distinguished by their special endurance.
About new varieties of pelargonium
The modern assortment of this culture amazes with a huge number of varieties and hybrids.
To obtain healthy plants that retain all varietal characteristics, special firms use in vitro propagation (from a piece of tissue).
A large surge of attention to pelargonium occurred after the creation hybrids that reproduce by seeds. Such specimens are distinguished by excellent evenness (that is, they have the same size, develop the same way and bloom at the same time).
Different varieties and hybrids of pelargonium differ from each other in the size of the flower and the entire inflorescence, the height of the plant, as well as the number of simultaneously flowering inflorescences.
tall pelargoniums have large inflorescences and flowers that bloom quite late. The number of inflorescences in such plants is not very large. Low growing varieties and hybrids This culture with small inflorescences attracts attention with early and lush flowering.
It is worth recalling the Goldsmith pelargoniums. Many lovers of this plant are already familiar with her series "Maverick", "Elite", "Orbit". These series of plants can be perfectly grown from seeds.
Reproduction of pelargonium zonal
Pelargonium zonal propagates by seeds and cuttings. Both of these methods have their advantages.
Pelargonium grown from seeds, are more compact and better resist various adverse factors and diseases. These hybrids in flower arrangements are planted in well-lit places. They retain their evenness and beautiful appearance until the fall, and also tolerate small frosts well.
In large flower beds for plants obtained from cuttings, require more thorough and painstaking care, as they are more sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. In addition, in such pelargoniums, flowering is reduced with the onset of cold nights.
Plants obtained from seeds, are more resistant to heat, and specimens from cuttings grow and develop better in the shade.
Growing pelargonium zonal from seeds
- The seeds of zonal pelargonium have a dense leathery shell, therefore, before sowing them, it is necessary to carry out scarification:
- rub between two sheets of fine sandpaper,
- soak the seeds for 3 hours in warm water;
- another way to scarify: alternately pour boiling water over the seeds and cold water(can be repeated several times), then put in boiling water and leave for 24 hours.
Seeds can be sown without scarification, but this reduces germination and increases germination time to 1-3 months.
If you purchased seeds in the form of dragees in the store, scarification is not needed for such seeds, go straight to planting.
Sowing seeds of zonal pelargonium is carried out in December - March. The deadline is April.
Sowing seeds is carried out in a substrate consisting of a mixture of peat with coarse sand or vermiculite, or from soddy soil with the addition of peat, sand or vermiculite. Convenient to use for seeding peat tablets.
Before sowing, the substrate (peat tablets) is moistened. At the same time, it is useful to treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide to prevent black leg.
When sowing in boxes, the earth is lightly tamped, the seeds are laid out on the surface, lightly sprinkled with a substrate on top and additionally moistened with slightly warm water from a spray bottle.
Landings are placed under plastic bags, which are removed once a day for ventilation. The substrate is maintained in a wet state, but without the "swamp".
Containers with sown seeds are kept at a temperature of 20 to 24 degrees.
Dried and scarified seeds usually germinate in 7-12 days, but can take up to 3 weeks to germinate.
Seedlings are sprayed daily with water at room temperature, sufficient soil moisture is monitored, and fungal diseases are prevented once a week (watering with potassium permanganate or fungicide).
In the phase of 3 true leaves, seedlings can be picked. When picking, soil is also cultivated against the black leg. Subsequently, you need to spend another 1-2 watering with potassium permanganate (fungicide).
To form lush bushes over the 6th leaf, the plants are pinched.
Before planting in the garden (at least 2-3, preferably 10-14 days), you need to harden the seedlings. To do this, it is transferred to the street for a while (first to a covered loggia, if available). The air temperature should not be lower than 10-12 degrees. The first time the “walk” takes 2 hours (in partial shade), then the time is increased and the plants are gradually accustomed to the sun.
Video about picking pelargonium seedlings:
Reproduction by cuttings
Pelargonium cuttings can be planted from January to April. It is convenient to combine this procedure with spring pruning.
- Cuttings are cut from existing plants, each cutting should have 2-3 internodes (pairs of leaves).
- Preferably use apical cuttings. They root better.
- The lower cut is made oblique, the upper cut is straight (for stem cuttings).
- The resulting cuttings are kept for 2-3 hours in the air in the shade so that the sections dry out.
- Placed for rooting in water or a light substrate (coarse sand, peat, vermiculite).
- When planting, the substrate must be shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (prophylaxis of the black leg).
- Landings are placed in a bright place at a temperature of 20 to 24 degrees.
- Rooting occurs within 3 weeks. After that, the cuttings are planted in separate containers and placed in a well-lit place so that the plants do not stretch.
In mid-May, you can plant plants on permanent place to the garden.
Video about the propagation of pelargonium zonal cuttings:
Planting pelargonium zonal
Pelargonium can be used for planting in flower beds, in mixborders and borders. It is perfect for hanging containers, portable containers, balcony boxes and a variety of large pots, stone and concrete flower beds.
IN open ground pelargonium is planted in seedlings. Seedlings are grown as described in the propagation section.
Location selection
Like all geranium crops, pelargonium loves an abundance of light and grows well in areas of the garden that are open to the sun's rays. When cultivating pelargonium in places that are slightly shaded, the splendor of flowering decreases, but the size of the flower becomes larger.
Soil preparation
This culture develops best on loose, breathable, nutritious soils with neutral acidity (pH 5.8-6.2). In addition, fertilizer with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus must be added to the ground. You need to dissolve it little by little over a long time.
Before planting, the soil in flowerbeds and rabatkas must be dug up to a depth of 25 to 30 cm, then carefully leveled with a rake.
Landing dates
Zonal pelargonium is planted in flower beds or on a bed only after May 15, and it can be taken out to a closed balcony or loggia a few weeks earlier, but be sure to take care of frost protection.
Landing technology
Ready seedlings are planted in flower beds so that the distance between plants in a row and between rows is 20 or 25 cm, depending on the height and width of the bush. in portable containers and hanging planters plants are planted close enough, but be sure to ensure that they do not touch each other with leaves.
When planting, pelargonium is placed 2-3 cm deeper than it grew in seedling pots. This helps the formation of new additional roots in young plants.
It is advisable to pinch elongated specimens when disembarking. Such an agricultural technique will slightly delay the appearance of flowers, but the bushes will quickly get stronger and their summer flowering will be more lush.
Agricultural rules
Watering
Since zonal pelargonium belongs to drought-resistant crops, when planting outside, only young specimens need regular watering (until the moment when they begin to grow intensively). Watering is also required for adult pelargoniums, if long time the weather is hot and dry, and if the leaves begin to wither near the bushes.
In portable containers and hanging planters, plants are also watered regularly throughout the growing season, but between waterings upper layer soil (3-5 cm) must be dry.
top dressing
In order for pelargonium to develop well and bloom luxuriantly, it needs top dressing. mineral fertilizers with nitrogen and potassium. Moreover, nitrogen should be less than potassium. This proportion of macronutrients in top dressing keeps the plant in the best shape.
Pelargoniums, which are grown in containers, are fed under the root and along the leaves (foliar feeding).
It is worth knowing that when fertilizing under the root with fertilizers, the acidity of the soil increases, and a decrease in pH below 5.7 provokes diseases in adult plants and seedlings.
Pelargoniums planted in flowerbeds and rabatka are fed every 10-12 days from the time of planting until mid-August. And plants located in hanging containers and boxes on balconies or loggias are fed at weekly intervals. At the same time, foliar and root top dressing alternate.
Pruning inflorescences
To maintain the beautiful appearance of plants growing in portable containers and concrete flower beds, dried inflorescences and yellowed leaves must be cut off.
Also, inflorescences (including those that have not faded) should also be removed from pelargoniums growing in flower beds if the weather is cool with precipitation for a long time, since in such humid conditions the inflorescences can become ill with gray rot. From inflorescences, the disease quickly passes to shoots and leaves, especially if the bushes were fed with large doses of nitrogen.
Pelargonium zonal in autumn and winter
The flowering of this crop continues in the fall, as pelargonium can easily tolerate small frosts (-3 degrees Celsius). To prolong flowering, plants can be planted from a flower bed into a container and brought into the room. If, when transplanting a bush, a large clod of earth with roots is preserved, then flowering will not be interrupted for a single day. On a well-lit window, pelargonium will continue to bloom for another two to three months.
After its completion, the containers with plants are moved to a bright room with a temperature of 10-12 degrees. If this is not possible, then cut the shoots and limit watering. With the beginning of spring, pelargonium is transplanted into fresh and nutritious soil, the stems are greatly shortened, placed on a bright window and watering is increased. As soon as the shoots move away, they begin to fertilize with fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Pelargonium zonal is familiar to everyone. It is often mistakenly referred to as geranium. A popular plant can often be found on the windowsills of clinics and other social institutions. Flower growers love pelargonium for its unpretentiousness and almost year-round flowering. Its large spherical inflorescences of gentle tones adorn open flower beds and indoor flowerpots, verandas and balconies. The zonal pelargonium stems branch well, so the bushes look lush and beautiful.
A multi-thousand variety of species, many of which feel great at home, attracts the attention of florists, flower decorators, breeders and just amateurs of indoor floriculture to pelargonium, especially since growing and caring for a charming flower is very simple if you follow simple rules.
Below you will get acquainted with the amazing variety of species and varieties of zonal pelargonium. Their bright photos fascinate, and the description helps to orient. You will also find useful tips on watering, transplanting and propagating a flower.
The genus Pelargonium, or Pelargonium, includes over three hundred species. The plant got its name for the characteristic structure of the fruit. It is a narrow box pointed towards the top. Its bizarre shape is associated with the stork's beak. This similarity is reflected in the name of the species: pelargos is translated from Greek as "stork".
Pelargonium was brought to Europe at the end of the 17th century from the expanses of South Africa, where it is found in the wild. Europeans immediately appreciated the beauty and splendor exotic flower, as well as its undemanding to the conditions of detention. Very soon, the plant settled literally on every window sill, garden bed, greenhouse. It even began to be considered a symbol of the Victorian style and an indispensable attribute of the luxurious home interiors of the British nobility.
The plant came to Russia much later, when in Europe they began to forget about it, classifying it as a petty-bourgeois bad taste. For a long time, our grandmothers kept devotion to red and pink geraniums. Fortunately, European breeders have brought back the South African guest from oblivion, brought about 10,000 varieties. Naturally, florists and flower growers could not pass by such a variety, and pelargonium has again become the most popular plant in garden beds and hanging planters.
Species richness determined the diversity of geraniums. The species differ in the shape and color of the flowers, the height of the bush, the shape of the leaves and other features. Some of the species are suitable for cultivation only in greenhouses and botanical gardens. From some, an essential oil is extracted, which is popular in soap making and perfumery. And only a few varieties are grown at home, most often zonal pelargonium, or garden geranium.
Varieties of zonal pelargonium
Pelargonium zonale, or Pelargonium zonale, is the most common species, which is characterized by unpretentiousness and durability (does not lose its decorative effect up to 20 years). In the wild, as well as in open ground and southern climates, bushes can be quite tall, up to one and a half meters. IN room conditions- a little over half a meter. They lend themselves well to formation, can be grown in the form of a tree or lush bushes. As the shoots grow, they become woody.
On rounded pubescent leaves are concentric circles in the form of a horseshoe or a ball. In color, they differ from the rest of the leaf plate: they can be a tone darker or lighter, or contrasting shades. For such a division into zones, the view got its name. Depending on the variety, the leaves differ in their size, shape and color.
Flowering varieties have abundant and long flowering from spring to autumn. Can bloom year-round if provided proper care. Zonal pelargonium flowers are collected in large spherical inflorescences, they can be double and non-double. Their coloration is very diverse: there are varieties with flowers of white, red, pink, purple, and even two-tone. The petals may have specks, strokes, or a colored border.
For the convenience of orientation in the abundant catalog of varieties of zonal pelargonium, a conditional classification has been adopted:
- According to the growth of the stem, plants are divided into:
- tall - from 42 cm in height;
- medium height - not higher than 40 cm;
- undersized (dwarf) - bushes up to 20 cm in height;
- miniature - grow no more than 12.5 cm (varieties White Butterfly, Dwarf Nano Violet of the Biotechnica agricultural company).
- By the number of petals:
- simple - up to 5 petals (varieties: Chandelier Bicolor, Blanca, Pelargonium Paul f1, Southern Night, Moulin Rouge);
- semi-double - the number of petals is from 5 to 8 (varieties: Multibloom Lavender, Violet Star, Raffaella, Toscana);
- double - lush flowers with more than 8 petals (varieties: Pink, Grandiflora Mix, Colorama, Scarlet Chandelier, Wilhelm Langguth variegated variety).
- According to the shape and color of the petals, varieties are divided into:
- bouquet - a varietal group with simple flowers that form large umbrella inflorescences;
- star-shaped - flowers with pointed serrated petals, leaves strongly dissected, similar to palms with widely spread fingers;
- cactus-flowering - the petals are narrow, often twisted along, arranged horizontally, the flowers look like cactus-like dahlias;
- phlox-flowered - two-color flowers in the center are white, and crimson along the edges of the petals;
- tulip-flowered - the buds of these varieties of zonal pelargonium do not fully open, their shape resembles half-closed bud flowers;
- pink buds - breeders call this varietal group Rosebuds (from the English Rosebud), it includes varieties with flowers, whose shape is similar to small roses, the flowers are double, lush, the petals do not open to the end, twisting inwards and forming a kind of rose buds;
- clove-flowered - dissected wavy petals at the edges resemble carnation flowers.
- Leaf shape and color:
- green varieties - green leaves with darker or lighter circles in the form of a horseshoe;
- variegated varieties of zonal pelargonium - grown mainly because of the beauty of the leaf. The flowers are small and inconspicuous, but the leaves are surprisingly beautiful, bizarre in shape and color. Zones can be located not only in the form of concentric patterns, but also sectorally. The combinations of shades are unusual, there are varieties with shades of pink, bronze, brown, yellow, white, silver, and even combinations of two or three shades. Plants are more whimsical to care for than ordinary varieties.
Almost all pelargoniums of this species are distinguished by a strongly pronounced tart smell of leaves, although this smell is far from pleasant for everyone, but its properties to repel moths and insects are appreciated by housewives. Also, the aroma of geranium is used in herbal medicine for the prevention and treatment of insomnia, neuroses and other consequences of stress.
Healing aromatherapy can also be done at home. It is enough to sit at a short distance (0.5 meters) from a flowerpot with pelargonium or plants in the garden, move the leaves to enhance the release of the smell, take 2-3 deep breaths, and then breathe in the usual rhythm for 10 minutes. Improvement in well-being occurs after two weeks of such therapy.
Zonal Pelargonium Care
Luckily for beginner growers, these plants are very easy to care for. They are not as capricious as other inhabitants of flower pots (like anthurium or calla lilies). Proper watering and bright light are sufficient conditions for your pet to thank you with a long lush flowering.
Lighting and temperature
The lack of light has a deplorable effect on the state of the green pet. Small leaves, half-naked stems and lack of flowering - this type of pelargonium is unlikely to suit you. In order for the bush to branch well and form a luxurious hat of inflorescences, it needs to provide bright lighting. The south sunny window is the perfect place. Here the plant will get its needed 4-8 hours of bright sun.
If the sun has left yellowish spots on the leaves, it is better to shade the plant a little. This is true for the hottest summer days. In winter, so that the shoots do not stretch, you can illuminate the plant with lamps.
In summer, the optimum temperature is 20-23 degrees during the day and 12-15 at night. In summer thirty-degree heat, the plant ceases to bloom and fades. In winter, plants are kept at a temperature of 12-20 degrees. Blooming geraniums are afraid of drafts and touching with delicate leaves of cold glass.
Watering and humidity
The second important parameter in care is rational watering. It must be very dosed: with a lack of moisture, the pelargonium leaves turn yellow and wither, with an excess, the root system rots (especially dwarf varieties). Properly water abundantly, but only when the top layer of soil dries out. In winter, watering is reduced to 1 time in 1.5-2 weeks.
Plants do not need spraying. If it comes into contact with pubescent leaves, water can leave stains. In general, pelargonium is calm about air humidity, and only in the cold season, when heating is turned on, dry air can harm green bushes. Therefore, in winter it is better to put a flowerpot with a flower on a pallet with expanded clay. Expanded clay regularly moisten.
Transplanting and fertilizing
Pelargonium zonal grows rapidly, its roots are tightly braided with an earthen lump and are shown from the drainage holes. You can transplant it at any time from spring to autumn. If the plants are kept in the garden, in early autumn they are transplanted into flower pots where they continue to develop. In the summer, they are again planted in open ground.
For young bushes, they take a pot of almost the same volume as the previous one (the difference is only 1-1.5 cm), adults are transplanted into a flowerpot of the same volume, changing only the substrate. The latter should be sufficiently loose: this can be achieved by a combination of peat, loamy soil, sand, perlite and charcoal.
Plants are fed during the flowering period with diluted complex fertilizers for pelargoniums (fertilizers for tomatoes or universal fertilizers for flowering plants are also suitable). Fertilizer should contain an increased amount of phosphorus and potassium, a reduced amount of nitrogen. Do not fertilize plants after transplantation, waiting at least a month and a half. In winter, top dressing is carried out no more than once every 4-5 weeks.
pruning
Peduncles appear only on young shoots, so it is important to form the bushes correctly. If this is not done, the stems will stretch, the bush will lose decorative form and the flowers will become rare. Pelargonium zonal is distinguished by extremely rapid growth, so it must be cut and pinched. The first pinching of young plants is done by removing the growth point above the 5-6th leaf.
Diseases and pests
Spider mites, aphids, thrips, mealybugs are capable of spoiling the plant. If signs of damage occur, it is important to treat the bush with special preparations in a timely manner.
Most often, pelargoniums are affected by the whitefly. Finding small white butterflies and their larvae is easy on the underside of the leaves. You can fight this pest with soapy water. The bush is thoroughly washed with soap and covered with polyethylene for several days. In case of heavy damage, the bushes are treated with actara (according to the instructions).
One of the most dangerous diseases of pelargonium is the black leg. In this case, cuttings of young plants are more often affected. The development of this disease is always associated with care errors: excessive watering, low air temperature, a spacious pot.
Mold also causes trouble for flower growers. It is formed in the form of a gray coating on the leaves, while the leaves turn yellow, brownish spots appear on them. Fungicide treatment helps to cope with the fungus. It is important to remove wilted leaves and flowers in time so as not to spread the infection.
Reproduction of pelargonium zonal
In home floriculture, two methods of propagation of this plant are practiced: cuttings and sowing seeds.
Reproduction by cuttings
This is the simplest and, accordingly, the most popular way. Cuttings retain the characteristics of the variety. What does it mean? When propagating, you get new plants with exactly the same varietal characteristics as the mother specimen. In addition, dividing by cuttings is a great way to rejuvenate a stretched old plant.
On the handle, the top of the shoot (5-15 cm) is cut off, half a centimeter below the leaf node. Peduncles and lower leaves are cut from the cutting, and the cut is dried in the air for a couple of hours. If the remaining leaves on the handle are very large, they can be cut in half. You can also root in a glass of water, but faster and more reliable - in a mixture of peat with sand or perlite.
The substrate with cuttings is moistened as it dries, avoiding water stagnation (otherwise a black leg will develop). At warm temperatures and diffused light, roots appear after two weeks. Strengthened sprouts are fertilized with complex fertilizers, and after a while they are transferred to small pots.
Growing from seed
Unlike propagation by cuttings, this method does not guarantee that new plants will retain the characteristics of the mother variety. This remark, however, applies only to hybrid species. So, more often than others, a hybrid mixture of seeds of the first (F1) and second (F2) generations is found on sale. On a bag with such a mixture it will be written: “Zonal Pelargonium F1” and then the name of the variety.
Varieties are obtained by crossing two copies different varieties. Plants from these seeds are popular among beginners in floriculture, although they do not have a variety of flowers. In contrast, species zonal pelargoniums are of great value to breeders and are no less successfully propagated by seeds.
It is best to sow the seeds of zonal pelargonium at the end of winter - then in the spring the seedlings will gain strength and will delight with buds in the summer, but you can propagate in this way at other times of the year. The seed is sown on the surface of a sterile mixture of perlite and peat, sprinkled on top with a thin layer of a few millimeters. You can also sow in separate cups - in this case, picking is not needed. Some growers advise pre-soaking the seeds in wet paper towels. If they are covered with a thick skin, it can be rubbed sandpaper fine granularity.
For rooting, containers with seedlings are kept warm (20-25 degrees), usually not covered from above, with diffused lighting. Moisten the substrate regularly. Green sprouts appear a few weeks after sowing. When two pairs of leaves form on them, seedlings that grow in a common container dive into individual cups or pots. These pelargoniums bloom earlier and more abundantly than those propagated by cuttings.
In the cultivation of pelargonium, there is a clear annual cycle, which depends on temperature and illumination. Usually, the flowering time in our climate begins in the spring and may continue for some varieties until late autumn, while there will be enough light and heat.
Lighting
When growing pelargoniums, one must remember that these are light-loving plants. Planted in open ground or carried out on open air in the summer, they perfectly tolerate direct sun. The exception is royal geraniums, which are more picky about the effects of wind and rain, so they are preferably grown on terraces, balconies and window sills, in protected places. If the pelargonium is in a closed room (in a greenhouse, on a window), where light enters through the glass, the plant may overheat, especially in conditions of poor ventilation. Then you need protection from the scorching summer midday sun. Pelargonium will endure and slight shading, but with a lack of light, the lower leaves will begin to turn yellow and die, the stem will become bare, the plant will not bloom.
It is important to rotate the plant regularly, every few days, at a small angle relative to the light source, this is necessary for uniform crown growth.
Temperature regime
In summer, pelargonium prefers moderate heat, within + 17 + 23 ° C. Landing in open ground should be done only when the danger of return frosts has passed. At a stable temperature of +12 ° C and below, pelargonium ceases to bloom, and too high a temperature also negatively affects flowering, especially indoors. The fact that the plant is cold can be signaled by reddened leaves.
In autumn, the temperature of the content and the abundance of watering are gradually reduced - growth should not be active so that the pelargonium does not stretch and become depleted in low light conditions.
winter care
Optimal wintering conditions can be created on a glazed and non-freezing, well-lit loggia or in a greenhouse. Need to support minimum temperature at night not lower than +6 ° C, in the daytime - about +12 + 15 ° C. In case of overheating on sunny days, open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. Angels, bicolor and tricolor varieties are best kept at higher temperatures by placing them in warmer areas of the greenhouse or loggia.
Good air circulation around the plants is required, they should not be placed too closely, if necessary, thick roots should be thinned out a little. This will help prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases. Watering this time is rather scarce, experienced growers carry it out from pallets, clearly measuring the amount of water and determining the time of the next watering by the weight of the pots, while the top of the soil is always left dry.
There are also other ways of wintering. One of them is to keep the plants in the form of rooted cuttings, while the mother plant is thrown away. The method is used in the summer cultivation of pelargoniums in the open air.
The second method is also used in outdoor cultivation: on the eve of frost, the plant is dug up, excess soil is shaken off the roots, the plant is heavily cut and wrapped in paper, then hung in a cool basement. The room should be with good ventilation and high humidity so that the plant does not dry out. In the spring, it is planted in a pot, with the onset of heat, it is planted in open ground. You can combine the first and second methods: first take the cuttings, and then send the mother plant to winter in the basement.
Wintering falls on the darkest time of the year and lasts approximately 2.5-3 months (from November to February). Already in late January - early February, with an increase in daylight hours, pelargoniums gradually begin to wake up.
Watering
When watering pelargoniums, it is important to remember that these are rather drought-resistant plants, while at the same time easily susceptible to fungal diseases. Therefore, it is better to under-water the plant a little than water it in excess. In summer, water as the top layer dries out, provided that the plant is in a warm and sunny place. In winter, in cool conditions, watering should be limited, but not brought to complete drying of the soil.
Signs of overwatering will be sluggish, drooping leaves, often with signs of gray rot, in severe cases, stem rot will begin, which almost always leads the plant to death. Another symptom of excess moisture is the appearance of "sores" on the underside of the leaves. When the earthen coma dries out, the plant stops blooming, the leaves turn yellow, their edges dry up.
Air humidity for pelargoniums is not important, these plants do not require spraying. Excessive dampness and stagnant air can cause fungal diseases.
top dressing
Top dressing is desirable to introduce with each watering, respectively, reducing the dosage. So, if watering is done every day, then we divide the weekly rate of fertilizers by 7-10 and give such a dose in each watering. If the lump has had time to dry between waterings, then you must first moisten it with clean water. During winter rest, top dressing is canceled if the temperature is kept low and the plants are completely resting. When at least a slight increase is observed, fertilizers can be introduced at ¼ dosage. Shortly after the rooting of the cuttings, fertilizer with high content nitrogen. For fertilizing young plants that are not yet allowed to bloom, use a complex universal fertilizer. Before the onset of the flowering period, about 2.5-3 months (in April), they begin to use a fertilizer with a higher potassium content. With signs of chlorosis, it should be treated with magnesium sulfate and iron chelate (or simply a solution of microelements in chelate form).
Landing
Priming Pelargonium prefers fertile and well-drained. It consists of turf land, humus, peat and sand in approximately equal proportions.
Lifespan an individual pelargonium bush is usually 2-5 years, after which the plant loses its decorative effect and it is better to take care of renewal in time by rooting cuttings. It will take about a year or a little more to grow an ornamental flowering plant from a cutting. Cuttings rooted in early spring may bloom this summer, but it is advisable to give preference to the formation beautiful bush for abundant blooms next year.
cuttings can be taken at any time, from early spring to autumn. But here it is necessary to take into account the time of flowering of the plant, which for different varieties ranges from 16 to 20 weeks after the last pinching or pruning (flowering occurs on young shoots that have reached this age). If you have a single copy of this variety, then you will have to wait for the end of flowering to cut the cuttings. If there are several copies, then it is better to take cuttings earlier, starting from February-March, then the young plant will have more time to develop for lush flowering next year, until this moment it is necessary to remove all emerging buds. It is not recommended to take cuttings before the end of January, with a short daylight hours. By this time, the plants are just beginning to wake up from a cool winter. If you take cuttings from dormant plants, then the level of growth hormones in them is low and rooting will take longer. For such pelargoniums as angels, royal and fragrant, it is advisable to take cuttings at the end of winter or early spring (later, with an increase in light levels, flower buds will begin to be laid closer to the tops of the shoots). For most varieties zonal pelargoniums this period is not so important, since their flower buds are laid along the entire length of the shoot and cuttings can be taken at any time during the growing season.
Cuttings must be cut only from healthy and powerful plants - the stronger and stockier the cutting, the better it will develop in the future. For cuttings, the apical parts of the shoots are taken about 5-7 cm long, from miniature and dwarf varieties - about 2.5-3 cm. The lower leaves and stipules should be carefully removed, under bottom node make an oblique cut with a slight slope. Dry the lower cut of the cutting in the air, depending on the conditions, this may take from several hours to several minutes. You can use drugs that stimulate root formation, but pelargonium gives roots well without their use.
Rooting takes from 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the conditions and variety. The roots are formed on the lower cut of the cutting. As a soil for rooting, a mixture of sterile peat substrate and perlite is used in approximately equal proportions. It is important that water does not stagnate in the soil. Sterilizing the soil before use reduces the chance of cuttings rotting. Small pots (6 cm in diameter) or transparent cups (100-200 ml in volume) are filled with earth mixture and kept on a tray with water until the upper part of the substrate begins to be wetted. After that, the soil is allowed to dry for about a day.
Another method of rooting is also popular. They take two pots, insert a second, narrower pot into a wider one, fill the space between them with soil, and prepared cuttings are planted here. They are immersed in the ground by about 1-3 cm (depending on the variety) and lightly pressed.
The next watering is carried out sparingly and through the pan when the soil dries. It is advisable to introduce a systemic fungicide into the soil after planting the cuttings during the second irrigation. A greenhouse for rooting cuttings of pelargonium is not required. The first 2-3 days, leaves may wilt (do not place cuttings on sunlight!), in the future they restore turgor.
Optimum temperature rooting of cuttings of pelargonium - about + 20 + 22 o C.
After rooting the first pinching the cutting is carried out when it forms 8-10 leaves. With a sharp sterile knife, the apical point of growth is removed. This stimulates the growth of side shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves. If shoots begin to grow only from 1-2 upper buds, then it is advisable to remove them or pinch them as soon as they give 3 leaves. The next pinchings are carried out as the side shoots grow, when they form 8-10 leaves. This will ensure lush branching, and subsequently abundant flowering. It is optimal to form a crown in the form of a 2/3 ball. The last pinching of the plant is carried out no later than 16-20 weeks (depending on the variety) before the expected flowering. Since flowering is influenced by external factors(illuminance), then you can expect it to start in May or June, so the last pinching is carried out no later than February. As they grow, diseased or weak shoots are removed, too rapidly growing ones are shortened, trying to maintain uniformity of the roots. Also cut out all the leaves that do not match the grade in size or color.
As the young plant grows, it is several times a season transplanted(neat transshipment) into a slightly larger pot, not trying to immediately give a large volume. Transshipment is carried out only when the roots tightly braid the lump. For a one-year-old plant, the maximum size of the pot should not exceed: for miniature - 9 cm, dwarf varieties and angels - 11 cm, for other varieties - no more than 15 cm in diameter. The last transplant of the cuttings rooted this season is carried out closer to the winter rest or after it ends at the beginning of the next season.
Pruning an old plant after flowering, taking cuttings
After the end of flowering of the mother plant, apical cuttings are cut from it for rooting. Pelargoniums are very susceptible to fungal diseases, so it is advisable to make a cut on mother plant above the node and be sure to treat the cut with a fungicide, sprinkle with coal or sulfur, these measures will reduce the likelihood of rotting of the stems. It is optimal to carry out cuttings in warm weather, this also reduces the risk of disease. It is better not to remove old leaves that remain on the plant at this time, so side shoots will soon begin to grow. As young shoots grow, old leaves are removed. As soon as the young shoots grow 8-10 leaves, they are pinched.
To give uniformity to the crown and stimulate good flowering, old specimens are carried out immediately after winter rest. pruning, remove frail and diseased shoots, shorten long ones, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each shoot. It is undesirable to carry out pruning in the fall, because at home, without strict adherence to cool wintering conditions, weak side shoots are formed that will have to be removed.
reproduction
cuttings. Pelargonium reproduces well with the help of cuttings - this is the main method of propagation of varietal plants, only it completely (excluding cases of the appearance of somatic mutations - spots) guarantees the preservation of all varietal characteristics in the plant. Read about cuttings of pelargoniums above.
seed propagation. Many cultivars are hybrid in nature, and even if they can set seeds, plants from such seeds will not necessarily retain the varietal qualities of the original plants. Species pelargoniums are successfully grown from seeds and not a large number of varieties.
Mostly on sale you can find seeds of F1 hybrids (first generation) and F2 hybrids (second generation), they are produced by large seed companies by crossing two different varieties. Plants grown from such seeds are not very interesting for collectors, but are more suitable for mass gardening - they do not differ in the richness of colors, but they have increased resistance.
The optimal time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. With an increase in daylight hours, it will be possible to grow strong seedlings, and seedlings are likely to bloom this summer. You can sow earlier, but in winter you will definitely need additional lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch.
For seed germination, poor sterile soil is used. Seeds are sown on the surface, sprinkled with a thin layer (literally 2-3 mm) of the earth mixture, spilled and not covered with anything. The optimum temperature for germination is + 20 + 24 ° C. You can sow the seeds one at a time in individual small cups, then picking is not required. Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks.
Diseases and pests
- Great damage to pelargoniums gray rot . It appears as a gray coating on the leaves and other parts of the plant. Its occurrence provokes coolness, dampness, waterlogging, poor ventilation. Especially often the disease occurs during winter rest, which is why it is so important to provide plants with good ventilation, not to put them close to each other, and to remove diseased and unnecessary leaves in time.
- Often found on pelargoniums rust. It manifests itself in the form of concentric yellowish spots on the top and brown below on the leaves.
- From waterlogging of the soil can be observed stem rot, which manifests itself in the form of dark depressed spots at the base of the stem. This is the certain death of the plant, but you can try to take the apical cutting.
- verticillium wilt caused by a fungus that infects the conducting system of the plant. The disease manifests itself in the gradual yellowing and wilting of the plant and is not treatable.
- Damage is also possible with other pathogenic fungi that cause various types of spotting on leaves, petioles and other parts of plants.
It is important to carry out preventive treatments of plants from fungal diseases in a timely manner, especially on the eve of winter holidays. Plants are abundantly sprayed with drugs or immersed with a crown in a container with a fungicide. It is advisable to use broad-spectrum systemic fungicides, such as Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Topsin, etc. When a fungal disease is detected, diseased parts of the plant are removed and treated with the same preparations.
- Pelargonium is often affected whitefly. When purchasing a plant, carefully inspect the lower part of the leaf for the presence of small white butterflies or white capsular formations, their larvae. If you find at least a few individuals, you should refuse to buy.
- Upon detection mealybug It's also better not to buy a plant. In the axils of the leaves, on the stems, clusters can be seen that look like pieces of white cotton wool.
- Pelargoniums can also be affected thrips, aphids, ticks.
Physiological disorders not associated with diseases or pests
- Leaf reddening. The reason is that the temperature is too low. We need to change the conditions.
- The plant does not bloom, although it general state good. The reason may be hiding in too high temperature, lack of light or excessive watering.
- The leaves turn yellow and fall, the edges of the leaves dry. The reason may be insufficient watering, with a strong exposure of the stem - a lack of light.
Photo: Nina Starostenko, Rita Brilliantova
Pelargonium zonal is one of the most popular indoor plants. Not so long ago, this flower was forgotten by flower growers and could only be found on window sills in educational institutions. Today, the fashion for pelargonium is back.
Pelargonium zonal - varieties
This species got its name for the characteristic coloring of the leaves. A border runs along the edge or in the center of the leaves of the zonal pelargonium. There are varieties with a wide or thin border, darker or lighter than the main green color, sometimes these are spots of purple or red-brown. Conventionally, all varieties are divided depending on the characteristic features:
- star-shaped varieties have petals with pointed edges, can be simple or double;
- cactus-flowering varieties are distinguished by petals twisted along;
- rosaceous varieties have chic densely double inflorescences, which, when opened, are very reminiscent of rosebuds.
Varieties of zonal pelargonium are also distinguished depending on the height of growth from miniature to tall. The latter are often used for small ornamental trees. There are varieties that are not covered with inflorescences.
Growing Pelargonium Zonal
In order for the plant to please with its flowering, it should be properly looked after. Pelargonium zonal does not belong to the whimsical, but some features will have to be taken into account.
- Location. It is advisable to choose a fairly bright or slightly darkened place. In the summer, flowerpots can be taken out to the balcony and placed in the shade. In winter, the temperature of the content should be in the range of 15-16 ° C.
- Watering. In the summer, the plant needs abundant watering. With the advent of winter, it is replaced by a moderate one. Flowers of this species have the ability to accumulate water, so they will endure a slight drought without problems.
- The soil. The land should be selected fertile and well-drained. A mixture of soddy soil, humus, peat and sand in equal parts is best. Instead of sod land, you can take compost.
- top dressing. It is good to periodically apply with the addition of trace elements when caring for zonal pelargonium. In specialized stores, ready-made pelargonite dressing is sometimes found.
- Bush formation. Always delete everything withered flowers to make the bush lush and branchy, the tops need to be pinched periodically.
- Transfer. Young plants are transplanted annually. Work should start at spring period but before the start of growth. The flowerpot should not be too large, as the shoots will be massive and leafy, but the plant will not begin to bloom.
Pelargonium zonal - growing from seeds
If you want to propagate zonal pelargonium from seeds, be prepared for the fact that the varietal properties will most likely not be preserved and the seedlings will have new decorative qualities. This is manifested in the height of the plant, the shape and color of the leaves.
For sowing, you need loose and fairly fertile soil. If possible, it is always better to add some sand or peat. Seeds can be sown from the beginning of March. If you want to start earlier, you will have to prepare artificial lighting.
Drainage holes are made in small containers and a layer is poured. Then they pour the earth and water it 
red solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are laid out on the surface and pressed quite a bit. To grow pelargonium zonal from seeds, the containers are placed in a warm place, having previously covered all the crops with a transparent film.
As soon as the first shoots appear, the film can be removed. We put all the containers on the windowsill with good lighting and water sparingly. As soon as two or three true leaves grow, you can start diving. Reproduction of zonal pelargonium in this way is the simplest. In the future, the flowerpots are exposed to a bright place and moderately watered.
This flower is called differently: some derogatoryly-disparagingly call geraniums, others respectfully-respectfully call pelargonium. Although the latter are right. The fact is that the taxonomy of plants is a rather complicated matter, and there have been disagreements regarding pelargonium for a long time.
This indoor plant belongs to the extensive geranium family, which includes many plants, among which representatives of the genus "geranium" - "geranium" are very common, only these flowers are not grown in rooms. Another name for real geranium is crail, and this flower grows in our meadows and fields, some species in flower beds. A distinctive feature of the representatives of this genus is the symmetrical structure of the flower. But representatives of another genus of the geranium family - pelargonium (pelargonium) grow exclusively in southern countries and in our strip for the most part grown as a houseplant. Pelargoniums are distinguished by an asymmetrical flower structure: their two upper and three lower petals have different size and form. So, according to the scientific classification, the grandmother's flower growing on the windowsill is pelargonium. Although until now, even in very authoritative sources, they sometimes continue to be called geraniums. The most important thing, however, is that we understand what is at stake.
It is interesting that some flower growers consider old long-known types of pelargoniums (for example, zonal) as geraniums, while only the most spectacular representatives of the genus are classified as pelargoniums. However, do not laugh: even some very well-known foreign sites use such a classification.
So, we agreed: the heat-loving plants growing on our windowsills are pelargoniums, and the winter-hardy crails are geraniums. But this is not the only difficulty. It turns out that in the genus Pelargonium there are a huge number of species and varieties. It would probably take a whole book to list and describe them all.
First of all, it is well-known and beloved, the most common and popular pelargonium zonal. It is so named for a special stripe on the leaves - a dark zone that is present in most varieties. Zonal pelargonium has almost round notched leaves. Probably everyone is well aware of the characteristic smell of this plant, which is even used to repel insects. Some people like this smell, but still the majority treats it without much enthusiasm. Perhaps the smell is one of the few disadvantages of the plant.
The correct name for this houseplant- pelargonium. Geranium is a plant related to pelargonium, cold-resistant and widely grown in middle lane both in meadows and flower beds.
Zonal pelargoniums have settled on our windows since time immemorial. I still remember one amazing beautiful balcony, on which a huge variety of multi-colored pelargoniums grew. When they bloomed, they reminded from afar lush roses. Yes, zonal pelargonium is now often grown in boxes, planting several cuttings nearby, although this method cannot be called ideal. Pelargonium does not like crowded content, especially because with such growth, plants are easily infected from each other with various diseases. Nevertheless, even in the distant times of our childhood, when we knew nothing about new varieties and could not exchange plants over the Internet, the color of zonal pelargonium flowers was very diverse: from bright red to pink, salmon and white. If someone thinks that this is an uninteresting, out-of-fashion grandmother's flower, he will be very surprised when he finds out how many different varieties of this plant have been bred recently. They differ not only in color, but also in the shape of the inflorescences, as well as the color of the leaves.
A variety of zonal pelargonium stellars has a special leaf shape. It is characterized by star-shaped leaves with a variety of colors; there are, among other things, two-, three-color varieties. There are many other varieties with a variety of leaf colors. These are fancy leaf varieties that tolerate direct sunlight very well, silver leaf, the leaves of which have a white border. The tri-coloured variety is amazingly beautiful, its leaves have more than three colors in their color, and the butterfly leaf has a butterfly-like spot in the center of the leaves.
Even more you can find varieties of pelargonium with different unusual shape and flower color. Some of them resemble roses and tulips. These are the well-known rose buds (rosebuds). Their flowers have an amazing structure: a large number of petals that do not have time to open and therefore resemble roses. Other pelargoniums are called tulip flowered because their flowers really look like small, unopened tulips. Speckled flowered - differ in multi-colored spots on the petals. Even more amazing are the flowers of cactus-flowered pelargoniums. They have long and narrow petals that make them similar to cactus flowers. However, this is only a small part of the varieties of zonal pelargonium known today.
In addition, among all the varieties described above, which differ in the type of flowers and leaves, dwarf and miniature plants are distinguished. Dwarfs have a height of no more than 20 cm, they are grown in pots with a diameter of 11 cm. Miniature varieties are even smaller, their height does not exceed 12.5 cm, and the pot that suits them should not be more than 8 cm in diameter.
The second, also very common type of pelargonium - royal pelargonium. By its name, one can judge the appearance of the plant: it has amazingly beautiful large flowers of different colors. In royal pelargonium, in addition, the leaves have a different shape and a jagged edge. If zonal pelargonium is grown in flowerbeds in summer, a home plant can be planted in open ground for the warm season, then royal pelargonium grows exclusively in room conditions.
Very common and unpretentious fragrant pelargoniums. They really have a pleasant smell, which can be very diverse. This group includes a large number of species. Their main feature is that when touched, they can emit the smell of roses, lemon, peppermint. Most often, interspecific hybrids of these plants are grown among amateurs, for example, odorous pelargonium and radens pelargonium. They have beautiful carved leaves and flowers of different colors of medium size.
Another group of pelargoniums that is gaining more and more popularity are ivy-leaved pelargoniums. These are very common in Europe ampelous plants that are grown in hanging baskets. Their leaves, indeed, resemble ivy leaves, and the flower petals are narrower.
Worth mentioning succulent geraniums with powerful shoots. These plants can also be grown as a bonsai tree.
Finally, angels and unique ones, well-known among connoisseurs of pelargoniums. At angels the flowers are similar to pansies: the top two are usually darker and larger than the bottom three. The flowers seem to be voluminous, turned inside out. The leaves are almost the same as those of the royal pelargonium, only smaller. At the same time, there are variegated varieties. Care for angels is almost the same as for zonal pelargoniums, although these plants were obtained as hybrids of royal and curly pelargoniums. unique, oddly enough, - a very old group of pelargoniums, known since the 19th century; these are hybrids bred on the basis of royal pelargoniums. At first, they tried to grow them as a flower bed plant, and it was not possible to achieve the flowering of a new variety. Only then, during a dry summer, the unique ones finally bloomed. The flowers of unique pelargoniums generally resemble royal pelargoniums, only smaller. These pelargoniums need bright sun.
Origin
Pelargoniums (unlike geraniums) are of southern origin, they come from Africa. This is truly a plant for all times, in Europe they began to be cultivated in the 17th century. However, pelargoniums received special distribution in the Victorian era.
In the taxonomy of pelargoniums, a certain confusion was introduced by Karl Linnaeus, known to any botanist, who united all geraniums into one genus. And only the Frenchman Ch.-L. Laritje singled out a separate genus "pelargonium". The plant got its name from the Latin word pelagros - "stork". Interestingly, already in the 19th century there were quite a few cultivars of this plant. However, in the last century, their number began to grow at an astonishing rate. In recent years, more and more new cultivars have appeared, which are acquired with joy and impatience by numerous collectors. Interestingly, in the USA, homemade pelargonium is called "Lady Washington", and in the UK - everyone indoor varieties plants are called royal pelargonium.
My Pelargonium Story
I have been growing this flower for many years: both successfully and not very well. Remarkably beautiful zonal pelargonium plants grew on my south window. The only thing I didn't like was the need for constant pruning of the plant. I always feel sorry for throwing away cuttings, so soon the number of my pelargoniums exceeded all allowable limits. These were the most common varieties with red, white and pink flowers. I planted a lot of cuttings in a long box on the balcony, they grew wildly and bloomed with amazing intensity. We had to distribute cuttings to whomever we could. There was absolutely no problem with the plant other than its incredible desire to grow and spread.
The passion for pelargonium ended as soon as I changed my apartment. On the dark eastern windows of the new house, the appearance of the plant was, to put it mildly, depressing. Pelargonium grew quite well and even bloomed, but the number of inflorescences was 5 times less than what I was used to. And the most unpleasant thing is that by the middle of summer all the plants sported an ugly bare stem and a small bunch of leaves at the top. It was not possible to force the plant to take a compact form. Constant pruning led to the fact that flower buds did not have time to be laid, flowering almost stopped. In general, pelargonium is not a plant for dark rooms. And if you have a lot of light, it will give you unforgettable joy with its incessant flowering and magnificent appearance.
At work, they gave me a process of fragrant pelargonium. To be honest, I do not know exactly its species name. My window faced north there, so the plant also stretched a lot, I cut it off, it stretched again. True, it still bloomed a couple of times, but you can call it beautiful with a big stretch.
Bloom
Although there are a large number of pelargoniums valued for their beautiful leaves, flowering is still the main advantage of this plant. Pelargonium blooms a lot and for a long time, almost from spring to late autumn. The color and shape of flowers is different and depends on the type and variety.
Lighting
Bright lighting is very important for all varieties and types of pelargonium. Although many books on indoor floriculture, especially old ones, talk about the shade tolerance of pelargonium, this is fundamentally wrong. On the northern windows, the plant will not die, but its appearance will be more than deplorable. It is unlikely that you will be satisfied with the lack of flowering, thin, weak, bare stems at the bottom, small pale leaves. On the east and west window, pelargonium will grow and bloom, but the most beautiful, compact form and regular flowering can only be obtained from the south window. Pelargoniums require at least 4-8 hours of direct sun per day. Keeping on a south window or in a garden in the sun is essential for the flowering of royal pelargoniums. True, on the hottest days it will not be superfluous to shade the plant. Too bright sun is especially dangerous for ivy pelargoniums. It can cause yellow spots on their leaves.
For the formation compact form in winter, additional illumination of plants can be used by placing lamps at a height of 8-10 cm above them.
Proper watering can also be called one of the fundamental factors in the care of pelargoniums. On the one hand, plants really do not like overdrying, in which case their leaves quickly droop and turn yellow. However, excessive moisture is also unfavorable for pelargoniums, especially in cold winters. It is best to water infrequently when the topsoil dries out, but plentifully. In winter, pelargoniums are watered rarely and little by little, about once every 2 weeks, and it is better to water in the morning so that the soil has time to dry out a little by evening. Excessive watering most often leads to rotting of the root system and death of the plant.
Overmoistening is extremely dangerous for miniature varieties pelargonium, the root system of which rots very quickly when waterlogged.
Fertilizer
Like for most flowering plants, pelargoniums require complex fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. The relative proportion of nitrogen should be low, because. otherwise, the plant will start growing and stop blooming. Dwarf and miniature pelargoniums will begin to produce huge leaves. On the contrary, a lack of nutrients will slow growth and lead to leaf chlorosis. The optimal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 9:18:11. It is better to use fertilizers in chelated form. Either special top dressing for pelargoniums or tomatoes, or Kemira-lux fertilizer, will do. Of course, it is worth fertilizing no earlier than 1.5 months after plant transplantation. In addition, it is better to use a very dilute fertilizer, but apply it more often.
In winter, they fertilize about once a month, diluting the mineral complex 4 times. Miniature and dwarf varieties do not fertilize at all. For pelargoniums, along with top dressing, spraying with zircon is useful (4 drops per glass of water).
When caring for pelargonium, it is very important to remove wilted flowers and dried leaves in a timely manner in order to avoid the appearance and spread of various fungal infections.
Humidity
Pelargonium is one of the few plants that does not need high humidity and regular spraying. However, in winter, pelargoniums extremely poorly tolerate dry air from radiators. Therefore, it is better to place the pots in pallets with wet expanded clay.
Temperature
At various kinds pelargonium slightly different requirements for temperature regime, however, all indoor representatives of geraniums are thermophilic, they are unlikely to be able to tolerate temperatures below +8 0 С. Pelargonium zonal in summer, it will prefer a daytime temperature of + 20-23 0 С, and at night - a lower one - + 13-15 0 С. However, in the heat, the flowering of pelargonium weakens: at temperatures above +30 0 С, zonal pelargonium will stop blooming.
In winter, the temperature of the content of pelargoniums can be + 18-20 0 C during the day and + 12-13 0 C at night. It is very important to protect plants from drafts and dry air from batteries. Leaves should not touch cold glass.
Of fundamental importance for flowering and normal growth is the temperature of the winter content for royal pelargoniums. Some reference books on floriculture even say that these plants bloom only once in an apartment, after which the plant can be thrown away. The fact is that for flowering and the formation of a compact form of royal pelargonium, along with bright light, a cool winter content at a temperature of + 8-10 0 C is required. It is best if these plants remain in the winter on a warmed loggia, where they can withstand temperatures even +4 0 C (of course, the plant should be watered at such temperatures very carefully). In the event that it is not possible to ensure a cool wintering of royal pelargonium, the way out will be to gradually take the plant to the balcony in the spring, when the temperature there reaches about + 8-10 0 C. Of course, the plant must be slowly accustomed to low temperatures, leaving it on the balcony at first for 2-3 hours, gradually increasing the time spent in the cold (otherwise, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow en masse). In this case, the pelargonium will surely bloom, but a little later: not in February, but in the middle of summer. One way or another, some flower growers claim that they manage to achieve a flowering plant, even without a cold dormant period, but there is no full guarantee of flowering with a warm year-round maintenance of the plant. However, there is good news: some varieties of royal geraniums, such as "Sally Monroe ( Sally Munro)" do not require a dormant period for flowering.
Because in winter, with insufficient lighting, pelargoniums tend to stretch out, sometimes they are forced to enter a state of rest. For example, plants can be taken out of pots, shake off the ground and hang in bunches at a temperature of + 3-8 0 C. Sometimes it is still necessary to lower the roots into the water in order to avoid complete drying of the plants. In the spring, the plants are shortened by a third and planted.
It is possible to shorten the plants by half before the onset of winter dormancy (and zonal pelargoniums even by 2/3), cut the roots, plant the plants in pots and keep them in a cool place all winter (yellowed leaves are removed during the winter and check that the plant does not rot, and the soil didn't dry out).
substrate
The soil for pelargoniums should not be too humus, because. in this case, the vegetative mass will begin to develop intensively: shoots and leaves, and flowering will be weak. It is preferable to choose a loose, breathable substrate, consisting, for example, of equal parts of humus, leafy, soddy soil and sand. You can use a mixture of peat, perlite, sand and loamy soil (pH 6.5). You can use sand-rich cactus soil to which vermiculite is added (half a cup per liter). To two parts of this mixture, it is desirable to add one part of the peat mixture. Charcoal can be added to the soil mixture to prevent rotting, especially if there is a tendency to constantly flood the plants.
Transfer
Pelargoniums are transplanted when their overgrown roots appear through the drainage hole. Transplantation can be carried out during the entire growing season, i.e. from spring to autumn, sometimes you have to replant plants even 2 times a year. When transplanting young pelargoniums, the diameter of the pot is increased by no more than 1.5 cm; when transplanting adult plants, it is not necessary to increase the size of the pot, you just need to change the soil substrate. It is very important not to use large pots for dwarf and miniature varieties, as in a pot that is too large, the probability of rotting of their root systems is very high. It is better to choose clay pots for pelargonium, because. in them, the root systems breathe better, but it is worth considering that the soil will dry out faster in them.
Formation
The correct formation of pelargoniums is one of the main difficulties in caring for them. It’s worth remembering right away that if you don’t form a plant, then soon they will either turn into ugly elongated sticks with rare flowers, or, even worse, they can develop various diseases in the absence of sufficient air exchange and light. On the other hand, pruning and pinching delay flowering, because. the laying of a flower bud lasts about 3 months.
Zonal pelargoniums should be cut most radically, especially in autumn, because. they are the fastest growing. Angels tend to form more or less compact bushes.
Royal Pelargoniums pruned usually at the end of the season. The last pinching must be done no later than August-September, so that young shoots have time to form. First of all, cut too elongated shoots, as well as branches that grow inside the crown. Royal Pelargoniums should not be shortened too much; in general, this species does not need radical pruning.
For trimming, use a sharp blade, which must first be disinfected.
Difficulties
Among the pests of pelargonium, the most insidious is the whitefly, which most often affects the plant. If the lesion is not very strong, wash the plant well enough, treat with soap and cover with a bag for several days. If the number of pests is very high, it is necessary to water the plant at least three times with actara with an interval of 6-7 days.
Pelargoniums can also suffer from spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids.
Another formidable disease that cannot be fought is the black leg. Most often it affects cuttings and young plants. Its cause may be a heavy waterlogged substrate, low temperature, too large a pot. Saving the plant is almost impossible.
Another problem is fungal infections and mold. The symptom is yellowing of the leaves and a grayish coating on them, brown spots. The plant must be immediately treated with a fungicide.
If white circles appear on the leaves, and a brown powdery coating underneath, this is a symptom of rust.
Stretching of the plant, weak flowering and rapid exposure of the lower part of the trunk is a sign of a lack of light. The lack of flowering and a large number of large leaves are the result of an excess of fertilizers. Yellowing of the lower leaves can be a symptom of insufficient watering. The leaves may dry out at too high a temperature.
reproduction
The most common and easiest method of propagation is cuttings. It is this method that allows you to save the varietal characteristics of the plant. If the plant is very stretched, its constant renewal from cuttings may be the only way to keep it. Cuttings are harvested in March-April or August-September (for plant renewal), although the rooting of pelargonium goes well throughout the year.
For ordinary pelargoniums, the cutting length should be 7-15 cm, while for dwarf and miniature varieties, the cuttings can be only 2 cm (it is quite difficult to cut them). The cuttings are cut across the stem with a sharp blade under the leaf node, 0.5 cm lower. Peduncles are removed (although sometimes it happens that even a pelargonium stalk blooms, but this is better not to allow it, otherwise the stalk will spend a lot of energy on flowering, and they will not be left to form roots and green mass. Cuttings of royal pelargoniums after flowering will not take root at all). Leaves that are too large can be cut in half to reduce evaporation. The cut can be dried and treated with root if the cuttings are weak or taken from weakened plants (but this is not necessary). Cut off the bottom sheet.
In most cases, zonal pelargonium cuttings root perfectly in water. However, it is better to plant them in a substrate of peat and perlite. It should be damp, but in no case wet, because. the main reason for the death of the cutting is that the black leg occurs in a too wet and heavy substrate, in the cold. It is best to use a transparent glass to monitor the development of the roots. The next time you need to water the stalk in about 1-2 days. Rooting is preferably carried out in diffused light conditions. For zonal pelargoniums, it is better to maintain a temperature of about + 20-25 0 C, rooting lasts about 2 weeks. For rooting angels, ivy and royal pelargoniums, the optimum temperature is +18 0 C, it is better not to root them in water. Royal pelargoniums can take root up to three months. After the formation of the roots, young plants are placed in conditions of brighter light. If the cutting was rooted in August-September, it will bloom in spring, and with normal maintenance even in winter.
Pelargonium can be propagated by seeds. They must first be prepared by placing them in a wet paper towel. If the seed has a thick skin, it can be gently rubbed with fine sandpaper. However, commercially available seeds usually do not have a thick shell.
Seeds are sown in a wet mixture of peat and perlite (1:10). Seeds should be lightly sprinkled with soil mixture (about 3 mm), cover the bowls with seeds with glass or plastic wrap. Germinate seeds at a temperature of +21-23 0 C. As a rule, germination lasts up to two weeks. After the emergence of seedlings, the glass is removed, and the bowl is placed in conditions of diffused lighting. Watering is slightly reduced. After the appearance of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive. For the normal development of plants, illumination is desirable. If very valuable varieties are germinated, in order to avoid their possible mass infection, it is better to germinate each seed in a separate pot.
Toxicity
Pelargoniums are not toxic, on the contrary, they purify the air of pathogens.
If on vacation
If you leave for 2-3 weeks, pelargonium will wait for your return. Do not overwater the plant before leaving. It is better to remove it away from the south window, cover the top layer of soil with wet expanded clay, and place the pot in wet peat.
(The article uses materials from the magazine "Home Flowers" and "My Favorite Flowers" for 2010-2013.)
