Repairing the speaker - a manual in pictures. Centering washers What glue to glue speakers with - overview of options

Detailed description diagnostics and repair of mid-range and high power. The article was written for those who want to repair speakers and have winding and soldering skills.
I have been repairing speakers for 15 years and want to pass on the acquired skills and techniques to the Datagorians.
Sorry for the lack of detailed photos of the process, all the equipment and work are now a thing of the past. Has your speaker whined or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First - diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.

We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.

Now for the second check. Place the speaker on the magnet and carefully move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustling or creaking sound, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.

If there is no grinding, and the winding is broken - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper strands, which break down over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. wire. T.F. suitable section or braided tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the soldering area with Moment glue.

If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, place the speaker on the magnet and use a swab soaked in acetone to soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it by prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. Using the same method, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull out the diffuser vertically upward without distortion.

I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and the centering washer, so as not to disturb the alignment of the speaker.

To rewind you need to assemble a simple device, the structure of which is clear from the figure. The most difficult part is the reel mandrel. To make it you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material – any metal.

Measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The spool mandrel should have a diameter of x+0.5mm on one edge and x-0.5mm on the other edge.
At the larger end we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
Drilling through hole 6.5 mm for stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.

Now you can start winding. We will need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.

We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding, gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we paste it with a layer of capacitor paper without overlapping layers. We wind the wire turn to turn, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind it not tightly, but tightly.

On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same steps in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amps for drying. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help you easily remove it from the mandrel.

We check the free movement of the coil in the speaker gap and begin assembly.
We need to align the coil exactly in the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a spacer made of photographic film or x-ray film into the gap.
2) Apply a small amount to the reel constant pressure 2-3 Volts so that it pulls in a little.

Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically down without distortion and without radial displacement, and press it. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table, and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.

After the glue has dried, remove the gasket and check the free movement of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!

Thank you for your attention!

Pavel (pavel_k)

Israel, Migdal HaEmek

Born in Siberia in 1960. Since 1975, amateur radio designer. In 1977 he entered Tomsk TIASUR.

In 1979-1981 he served in the army, in communications.

After the army he worked at the Academy of Sciences. USSR, was engaged in the assembly and testing of tube pulse modulators and high-voltage power supplies for them up to 25 kV. He also worked at the Department of Industrial Engineering. electronics assembler-tester.

From 1990 to 1996 he worked as a radio-television technician in a repair shop.

I have been living in Israel since 1996. I work as an electrical technician servicing equipment.

All the time he did not give up his hobby. I have made 9 tube and 12 transistor amplifiers. I did a complete restoration of Marschall and Fender tube amplifiers from the 60s.
Many projects to repair and improve parameters different equipment.

I use the Internet to search for diagrams and exchange experiences. I can help my colleagues with advice.

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How to seal a subwoofer speaker, if you find a hole in its diffuser (there are many reasons, carelessness, children playing pranks, and more), do not rush, throw out the old one, or look for a new speaker to replace it. Such damage can be easily and successfully repaired without consequences or noticeable changes in the operation of the subwoofer speaker.
How to seal a subwoofer if a problem arises, we will help you now.

What to do

The first question in this case is what to do - glue, what to glue with, what kind of glue is needed for the subwoofer - rubber, elastic, for example “88th” or “Moment”. Don’t panic, everything can be fixed, you can save money, without losing sound quality, let’s do everything in order.

Tools

To carry out simple repairs, you only need the following tools:

• Tube of glue “Moment”
• Thin cardboard (ideally electric cardboard, it is stronger)
• Suitable screwdriver
• Sharp, comfortable scissors
• Regular hair dryer

Note: To seal the subwoofer, use rubber glue, the use of quick-drying instants is undesirable.

Let's get started

Having assembled a simple repair kit, let's get down to business:

• Disconnect the subwoofer from the amplifier, remove the grille from the speaker using a screwdriver and unscrew the mounting screws from the speaker, carefully remove the speaker from the housing, turn off
• We inspect the condition of the speaker cone and immediately make sure that the leads from the voice coil have not been damaged.
• Using scissors, cut out a patch from thin cardboard, such a size that it covers this hole by a centimeter in any direction.
• You don’t have to look for electric cardboard, almost any one will do, you can even use cardboard box from under the candies
• It often happens that the shape of the diffuser is formed by the so-called double curvature surface
• Then you need to make two or three patches, which need to be glued overlapping one to the other
• Align the edges of the damaged part on the diffuser, impregnate the back side with “Moment” glue, diffuser material, wait a little for the glue to dry
• Prepare cardboard patches in advance, then generously moisten the damaged area on the diffuser with glue. reverse side, then we immediately apply patches, our goal is to saturate the parts to be joined with glue
• Then we immediately remove the patches from the diffuser without removing them, you need to wait 20-30 seconds, then attach both patches back
• From the reverse side, press them to the diffuser, placing a roll of cotton wool or padding polyester inside the speaker basket
• It is necessary to ensure that the diffuser does not immediately bulge in the place of gluing, which means that you need to select the optimal force for pressing the patches in order to maintain the initial shape of its diffuser
• After a day, we remove the supported support roller from the speaker basket and inspect how well the connection has stuck together.
• If you notice areas that are not glued, then bring the tube of glue to the crack, and gently press the tube and press a drop of glue there
• The main goal is to eliminate chatter when the speaker is operating.
• Use a hairdryer to carefully heat the glue joint until the glue boils, remove the hairdryer and squeeze the gluing area with your fingers.
• Hold for at least a minute, after which the glue will set tightly and hold the patch.
• Carefully move the diffuser both in and out to make sure that the coil does not touch the magnet as it moves.
• If necessary, replace the sealing rubber, connect it back to the speaker and install the speaker in place
• As you can see, gluing a subwoofer is not so difficult
• Then you need to do a test run at low volume to make sure there is no chatter during operation.
• Then we gradually increase the volume to maximum, listen carefully for the appearance or absence of any extraneous sounds
• If no extraneous sounds are found, you can return the grille to its place

That's all, in my opinion everything is clear even without video.

Seal the speaker

As a rule, there are more speakers in an audio system, so you will need instructions for gluing them:

• If your speaker begins to produce extraneous noise, this means that it may have become worn out over time.
• To glue the speaker, just buy “Moment” glue (“subwoofer glue” and glue “for speakers” do not exist) and take a piece of fabric or bandage
• And if the damage is significant, then you won’t be able to do without a soldering iron.

To repair the speaker yourself, you will need:

• The same glue "Moment"
• A couple of pieces of thin fabric (possibly a bandage) in last resort toilet paper
• Sharp knife or scalpel
• Tweezers
• Acetone

Let's get started

The procedure for repairing the speaker, photo above:

• Immediately prepare a bandage, gauze or fabric, then tint it to match the color of the speakers. Then apply glue to the fabric and carefully seal it on the inside and outside.
• If you are afraid of damaging it or sticking it incorrectly, you can limit yourself to sticking only on the outside
• Correct the sticker with tweezers
• Wait for the glue to dry completely
• If you have a problem with the speaker, more than holes in the fabric, then the following steps: First we need to unsolder the live wires from the terminal block
• Then moisten the cap located in the center of the diffuser with acetone
• After the glue has dissolved, take a scalpel, carefully pry it off and then throw away the cap
• The same steps must be repeated for the centering washer.
• Now the diffuser suspension is separated using acetone.
• Once separated, remove the diffuser and centering washer from the basket
• Now you have to rewind the reel
• If the speaker coil burns out near the base, then you will first need to solder it, but so that it does not protrude beyond the base
• When you have everything ready, you can start rewinding
• You need to insert a tube of the required diameter into the coil and unwind the entire old winding, remembering (which is important) the number of turns
• The coil should be lubricated with “Moment” and a new wire should be wound
• After this, solder the new winding to the terminals and you can begin assembly.
• Then we empty the basket and insert the diffuser there
• Using photographic film, you need to center the reel (roll the film into a ring, then it is inserted between the core of this speaker and the reel)
• First, you need to glue the diffuser suspension with glue, and after it dries, the centering washer (be sure to press the gluing points)
• After the glue has hardened, tear off the film and check the motion of the reel
• If the progress is normal, glue on the protective cap, then you need to put the column somewhere until it dries completely
• If during the test you hear the coil cracking, then you will have to peel everything off and check the winding or centering washer again
• After this, the speaker must be tested at its rated power

That's all, you can of course buy a new one if the price is not important to you.

The article describes methods for eliminating various malfunctions of loudspeaker heads, as well as some of their modifications in order to increase the durability and quality of sound reproduction associated with replacing the materials of the moving system.

I have been repairing speaker drivers for over ten years now. Due to the fact that the suspensions of both domestic and imported heads become unusable (polyurethane foam crumbles, butyl and fabric suspensions dry out and become rigid), I myself learned how to make woven suspensions impregnated using a unique technology, superior to the originals in a number of properties (frost resistance, durability , solvent resistance). I was able to obtain impregnation that meets these requirements after two years. research work; some of its results are presented on the Internet.

In addition to replacing the hangers, many are interested in the technology for eliminating other head malfunctions: displacements in the magnetic system (MS), broken supply wires or coils, defects in the centering washer, ruptured diffusers, and dented dust caps. This article describes methods for eliminating the listed faults, as well as some methods for improving the sound of speakers.

Magnetic head system

1. Centering the core.

As a result of accidental impact or falling of the head adhesive connection parts, the MS may be damaged, as a result of which the core moves in the gap and presses the diffuser coil against the washer. For repairs, it is necessary to fix the head on the board or in the same housing using a magnetic system in the middle (or out). First you need to insert thin and wide knives on both sides between the magnet and the washer and use a screwdriver to separate the magnet from the metal washer (it is better to do this together). After separating the displaced magnet, the MS should be re-glued only after the moving system has been peeled off and removed, in order to avoid deformation of the coil. For correct assembly it is necessary to machine a centering sleeve for the core, preferably from a non-magnetic metal or hard plastic (caprolon, fluoroplastic, vinyl plastic), long enough for comfortable grip, since it will have to be pulled out with considerable effort. The outer diameter of the bushing is equal to the diameter of the hole in the washer, and the inner diameter is equal to the diameter of the core. After this, having removed the old glue and debris from the core and magnet, put the sleeve on the core and assemble the MS. For gluing, you can use epoxy resin and BF adhesives. "Moment" or others suitable for metals. Instead of a sleeve, you can use liners made of Mylar film, wrapping them around the core.

2. Cleaning the magnetic gap.

In car heads, the gap often becomes clogged with dirt, which causes them to fail. To repair, you need to peel off the diffuser, soak the MC in water for some time and then rinse the gap under a strong stream of water. Metal particles stuck to the edges of the gap can be removed with a long sewing needle (they stick to its tip) or a strip of metal from a beer can with the edge bent inward.

3. Disassembling the magnetic system.

The adhesive connection of MS parts is softened with acetone; It is better to do this by placing it in a plastic bag and pouring solvent into it. To prevent evaporation, the bag must be tied around the MS.

Many MC heads are glued with an epoxy composition, which softens at 150...200 °C. Therefore, a puck of such MS can be heated with an iron set to maximum temperature, or put MS on a hot frying pan.

Lead wires

A malfunction associated with a defect in the supply wire manifests itself in the appearance of clicking sounds at high volumes or in a rustling (“spark”) sound. Clicks, as a rule, appear when there is a large amplitude of vibration of the moving system due to the impact of the supply wire on the diffuser or centering washer. Usually it is enough to bend the supply wire correctly, and if this does not help, glue a piece of foam rubber to the washer or diffuser at the point of contact.

Rustling sounds arise due to the appearance of a fracture and its sparking, usually near the diffuser. If the lead wire is long enough, you can turn it over and secure it at the other end. Another way is to drag the worn part of the supply wire inside the diffuser or push it forward, securing it with a clamp. If this does not help, then you can make new lead wires as follows:

1. twist them from two or three MGTF wires;
2. thread three or four cotton threads into a screen braid with conductors of a suitable cross-section or into a “wick” to suck out tin when soldering;
3. use Litz wire or thin stranded wire in insulation, designed for connecting speaker systems.

The most durable lead wires are made of Litz wire.

After soldering, the place where the supply wires are attached to the diffuser should be thickly coated with Moment-Crystal glue to avoid breaking. It is advisable to coat bare wires with Moment-Crystal glue diluted in a 1:1 ratio with solvent 650 or 646.

Voice coil repair

The main cause of noise (creaking, rustling, clicking) is the brushing of the sleeve (coil frame) against the core or the coil turns against the upper washer of the magnetic system. In addition to poor alignment, the reason may be in the sleeve itself, especially paper - this is swelling or kinks in the sleeve between the coil and the diffuser (photo 1), as well as the edges of the sleeve coming off the coil or foreign particles getting into the gap of the magnetic system.

To eliminate swelling, you need to make a small incision and use a syringe with a thin needle to inject BF glue or similar into it and smooth it out; If the delamination does not stick, then a mandrel is inserted into the gap.

The broken liner is impregnated with tsapon-la-com or BF glue and dried on a mandrel. Then, without removing it from the mandrel, the sleeve is pasted over the outside (between the coil and the diffuser) with two or three strips of tissue paper, and after drying and removed from the mandrel, if necessary, a cut is made in it ventilation holes. The peeled edges of the sleeve should also be glued and dried by placing them on the mandrel. Use appropriately sized objects for mandrels. cylindrical, brought to the required diameter with liners made of lavsan film (glue does not stick well to lavsan).

If alignment is disturbed, the coil must be centered again.

bumps metal frame coils (sleeves) can be smoothed from the inside with a hard object, for example, a pencil, a screwdriver handle, etc.

To remove foreign objects and dirt from the magnetic system gap, it is necessary to peel off the diffuser and clean the MS gap.

Weaker signs of noise (creaks, rustling, clicks) appear when the coil turns are partially peeled off.

Impregnate the unstuck reel with such types of glue as BF-2, BF-4, BF-19.

Centering washers (repair and replacement)

Washers can be a source of noise when peeling off or breaking.

A loose washer can be easily identified visually: both in a disassembled head and in assembled structure, moving the diffuser as far as possible in the direction from the magnetic system. To eliminate the defect, it is best to disassemble the head, peel off the washer entirely and “put” it back in its old place with “Moment 1” or “Moment-crystal” glue. You can do this without disassembling the speaker by applying an adhesive seam around the entire perimeter of the joint between the washer and the diffuser.

Sagging (elongated) washers can be easily straightened over a boiling kettle by holding the head being repaired by the diffuser and quickly turning the washer in a circle. At the same time, the spout of the kettle with steam is pressed against the washer in the direction of bending, as shown in photo 2.

“Tucks” (kinks across the wave of the puck) are eliminated as follows: fix the puck in correct position, impregnated with tsapon varnish and left until completely dry.

Kinks. Sometimes washers break near the cone, especially at the subwoofer heads. To repair small tears, simply coat them with Moment-Crystal glue.

A washer that cannot be restored should be replaced with a new one, choosing one that is close in size to the other heads. For example, a washer from 10GD-36 fits almost all dynamic heads with a diameter of 6...8 inches. The internal hole in the washer is enlarged to the required diameter (photo 3), and the excess waves at the edge are smoothed out with an iron, moistening the washer with water. The heat control of the iron should be set to “cotton”.

To obtain a more “elastic” bass, you can make the centering washer more rigid by impregnating it with zapon-varnish, bakelite or epoxy resin, diluted with acetone to the desired consistency. After impregnation, coat the first two waves of the diffuser with Moment-Crystal glue to avoid kinks and give the washer variable elasticity. This impregnation slightly increases the resonant frequency and reduces sensitivity, depending on the degree of impregnation.

Diffuser

Diffuser repairs include repairing rips, punctures and bruises.

Most often, dust caps become deformed. Wrinkled caps must be peeled off. But under no circumstances try to straighten the cap by piercing or pulling out the dent with a crochet hook or other catchy objects. Woven caps can be ironed by softening them with steam. Paper or plastic caps are smoothed from the inside with hard round objects (screwdriver handle, teaspoon).

To secure the shape, the caps should be coated from the inside with hard varnish (tsapon-varnish, bakelite, NC). Punctures and tears in caps and diffusers can be coated with glue from the back and front parts, lightly cleaning the material with fine sandpaper so that the paper dust, mixed with the exposed glue, fills the defect.

The gaps on the back side are glued with thin paper, and the joints are coated with slightly diluted glue. It is best to use methylcellulose (CMC)-based wallpaper glue, diluted to the desired consistency; PVA glue is also suitable.

Diffuser collar (repair and impregnation)

To repair a torn collar (corrugation) of a diffuser, it is better to use Moment-Crystal glue, diluted with solvent 646.650, or another elastic one, for example, rubber glue based on natural rubber, which is also good to use for impregnating the corrugation instead of guerlain.

Instead of guerlain, which gives a heavy, “greasy” sound, acrylic is perfect for impregnating a diffuser - it is acoustically neutral, waterproof and has good mechanical parameters. For thin and light diffusers, it is best to use Se-Neige-Sauna impregnation, diluted with water or black ink in a 1:1 ratio. The material is impregnated first on one side, and after drying, on the other. For the HF head, once is enough; for the LF-MF heads, the operation can be repeated.

After impregnation, the sound of the loudspeaker improves greatly: “elasticity” appears in the bass, “transparency” in the midrange, and “air” in the treble.

More rigid diffusers, for example, from LF heads, are better not to be impregnated, but to be painted acrylic varnishes“Senezh”, “Lapis Lazuli” (also diluted with black ink) using a spray bottle or, diluting the composition very liquidly, with a “Pony” brush in several layers with intermediate drying. In addition to the elegant black color, the dynamic head acquires a more “detailed” sound.

If you want to give your paper diffuser a nice black color, you can rub it with black shoe wax. If the wax is poorly absorbed somewhere, then this place should be greased with acetone and the wax should be immediately rubbed there. After drying, it is advisable to lightly polish it with a cloth swab.

Warning: diffusers painted from aerosol "car" cans lose their attractiveness over time. appearance, because the paint is falling off from them.

Kevlar and carbon fiber diffusers, especially cheap ones, often have a “caustic” sound from the mutual friction of woven fibers. In this case, the following impregnations help: polyester varnish, “Moment-crystal” or a thin layer of polyurethane foam. All impregnations are applied from the back to a pre-adhesive diffuser.

Any impregnation increases the mass of the diffuser, which entails a change in the parameters (primarily the resonant frequency) of the dynamic head, although, as a rule, changes are not required to the speaker filters.

Suspensions (repair and replacement)

The diffuser suspension (rubber and butyl) usually produces overtones if it becomes detached from the diffuser. Gaps (cuts) in the suspension are sealed with Moment-Second glue (cyanoacrylate), if necessary with diluted acetone.

Rotten foam rubber, dried woven, butyl and rubber airbags cannot be repaired, so they must be replaced with others.

In some cases, if the diffuser is severely damaged and cannot be repaired, you can select a replacement for it from faulty heads found on the radio market with other or lesser defects (coil breakage, deformation of the “basket”, etc.). This advice is, of course, suitable for repairing relatively common dynamic heads.

Literature

1. Zodniev P. Diffuser suspensions. - http://www.podves.narod.ru.
2. Zhbanoa V. On mechanical damping of diffusers. - Radio, 1988, No. 5, p. 41-43.

Publication date: 07.12.2007

Readers' opinions

• ostap / 10/11/2016 - 22:45
  The outer part of the rubber suspension (Sony SS-L90VH) was torn off. options for its treatment. Please.
• Sergey / 05/13/2014 - 18:31
  The tweezers from the craftsman in the photo are good.
• Vitaly / 11/27/2013 - 20:18
  The desire to do something with your own hands is a commendable phenomenon. But if something happened out of fright, there is no need to post it as know-how. Dimon suggests disassembling the magnetic system, but the fact that it is absolutely impossible to do this is not enough for the brain. Anatoly will have to rewind the coil, but who will give the data? On the next branch, the childish cutting is about high-temperature adhesives (200-300 degrees), but such a temperature occurs only when the voice coil is very overloaded. A student wants to squeeze a kilowatt out of a 20-watt din. and no one will hit you on the head to bring you to your senses. Another cretin has pioneered his wife’s nail polish and hiccups with delight and advises everyone with a show off. For coils up to 50 watts, BF-2 is ideal, everything higher is epoxy.
• Dmitry / 07/28/2013 - 09:40
  How can I sniff out a Japanese? I have JVC sk-s21. The gap is full of magnetic debris! I don't want to screw him up! I won’t forgive myself for this later!
• Yurik / 11/10/2012 - 12:45
  I have 2 orbit c30 speakers. Their maximum is 75V in 4th. The question is whether the TDA 7294 can handle them, as I know some TDA speakers light up after half the volume. Will the TDA7294 hold up?
• femtobot / 04.11.2011 - 06:09
  Have you tried drinking shoe polish?
• Dimon / 10.18.2010 - 14:30
  Present interesting tips! Regarding cleaning car speakers, I think that a jet of water cannot effectively clean the gap, the best way is to completely disassemble the magnetic system and thoroughly clean it of magnetic dust, sand and other debris, you can also pour natural rubber glue into the gap (it does not stick to metal) and wait when it dries (several hours) and “embraces” the dirt in the gap, pick it all out with a match... very convenient! go for it
• Dimon / 10.18.2010 - 14:25
  The speakers from the S90 move easily, you take it apart, it comes apart like a construction kit with the help of a solvent. There are countless tips on rewinding reels on the Internet!!! Good luck!
• Olzhas / 07/14/2010 - 17:03
  I have a speaker from s90 but the coil on it was damaged, how can I rewind it myself, answer please
• Anatoly / 04/20/2010 - 08:33
  I was involved in this business once in my youth. I recently found old 3-way speakers from 1981 AKAI (55 W), which I bought in Budapest. I didn’t touch the filters, I replaced the high-frequency and mid-range speakers with more powerful ones, but I can’t select the bass to fit the size; the mounting dimensions are not included and I wouldn’t want to spoil the box. Because the equipment remained at the previous place of residence, it is not easy to do repairs. Therefore, I would be happy to send the standard speakers for repair, rewind the sleeves (at 80-150 W power), replace the diffusers, washer and suspension. I would be grateful if someone would take care of this. The non-exorbitant price does not matter much. Phone in Moscow 8 916 925 6454. Anatoly.

One of the inexpensive, but such necessary elements in the structure of the speaker there is a lower suspension. It regulates the movement of the device strictly within certain limits. Actually, this is the centering washer of the speaker. As a rule, it has a wavy profile and is made of elastic fabric with special impregnation. When disassembling older speakers, you may find washers made of cardboard or other natural materials: linen, cotton, cambric. Modern parts are not produced from them, since the use of natural components in this case is impractical: they quickly lose the necessary characteristics when kept in a vertical position for a long time or when exposed to high humidity conditions for a long time (for several days).

Spare part requirements

Good sound is ensured largely by centering. It directly influences the quality of the loudspeaker head and ensures correct location voice coil. The characteristics that a good centering washer should have are determined by its function:

• maximum rigidity in a horizontal position to prevent the voice coil from coming into contact with the walls of the gap of the magnetic system;
• high plasticity in the axis, which ensures a low frequency of resonant movements;
• significant elasticity, due to which nonlinear distortions of the reproduced signal are minimized.

Only if these conditions are met will it be possible good quality sound and its purity. In order to buy centering washers for speakers, you need to measure the outer and inner diameters of the part itself, as well as the waves. It is these parameters, in combination with the material from which the part is made, that are key when choosing.

New sound

The subwoofer centering washer, which you can buy at the Autopodium auto electronics store, is quite inexpensive. Here you can also find all the necessary components for its installation. Thus, the speaker centering washer, the price of which ranges from 103 to 1,318 rubles. depending on the series of the device and its size, it is perhaps the most affordable component.

With spare parts from the Autopodium store, your subwoofer will sound new!

Navigation through the FAQ.

Pages 6

How to glue the sleeve and centering washer to the diffuser?

It is best to glue the sleeve into the diffuser immediately after winding the coil. The final drying of the coil can be postponed until later.

If the coil leads must be laid on the outside of the diffuser, then they can be carefully laid and glued to the sleeve before gluing the latter into the diffuser.

However, in order not to spoil the appearance of the speaker, it is better not to remove the leads from the outside of the diffuser, but glue the new coil leads with inside diffuser. In addition, there is no need to remove the dust cap.

Expand the image to full screen to see the full-size video.

To obtain a reliable adhesive connection, it is necessary to ensure a minimum gap between the hole in the diffuser and the outer surface of the sleeve. If the gap is large, then an additional paper gasket should be glued to the sleeve.

When gluing the sleeve into the diffuser, glue is applied to both contact surfaces.

As the glue hardens, the pair being glued is rotated, and the position of the connecting surface of the suspension is controlled by some stationary reference point.

If the suspension is too elastic and its shape is distorted during dismantling, then you can orient yourself along the line where the suspension meets the diffuser.

When the glue has dried, you can remove the sleeve from the template.

Before soldering the coil leads to the flex leads, you need to make sure that the coil leads will be connected in the correct polarity. The polarity of the connection must match the markings or color of the sockets.

The positive terminal of the speaker is indicated either by an arbitrary mark, or by a “+” (plus) sign, or by the red color of the socket.

If you wound a speaker coil, and the north pole of your speaker magnet is at the bottom, then the beginning of the coil is connected to the negative terminal, and the end is connected to the positive terminal.

If there is no initial data to determine the polarity, then it is enough to final assembly lower the moving system into the basket, connect a source to the coil terminals direct current(0.5... 1 Volt) and see in which direction the diffuser moves. If a plus is connected to the positive terminal, then the diffuser should move upward.

Click on the picture to see a three-second video.

Then the coil leads are laid without a gap on the surface of the sleeve and diffuser and soldered to the flexible leads. After which the leads, soldering points and places where flexible leads are attached are glued with glue.

You can remove varnish from the coil terminals and at the same time tin them using this simple device.

To make it, you need to heat a paper clip with a soldering iron and melt it into an Aspirin (salicylic acid) tablet.

After the glue securing the coil terminals has dried, a centering washer is glued to the diffuser.

When gluing the centering washer, both contact surfaces are covered with glue. While the glue is curing, a weight is placed on the centering washer.

Before final assembly, dry the coil as described.