Sealant for mounting foam. What are the ways to seal the mounting foam

To find out how to protect the mounting foam, the first step is to take into account the conditions of its operation. Popularity polyurethane sealants spread not only to facade work, but also to interior decoration premises - respectively, and the methods of protecting the cured foam are quite diverse

Polyurethane foam - material properties and its varieties

The consumer characteristics of mounting foam for sealing extended linear gaps make one sincerely perplexed - how they managed without it before, before the era of advanced chemistry. The basic properties of foam sealants include:

Magnificent adhesion, and selective character. With the main building materials (concrete, brick, cinder blocks, cement, plaster, etc.), mounting foam forms the strongest, virtually one-piece connection. But to moisture, ice, polyethylene, silicone and oiled surfaces, it sticks much worse. This eliminates accidental sealing of foreign elements;
Volumetric primary expansion at the "exit" of the composition from the cylinder, it reaches 50 times the value, for the most modest manufacturers - at least 20 times. The process takes only a few minutes and proceeds quickly, with a characteristic hiss and rapid filling of sealed openings. Just one sprayer is enough to fill deep and long joints. It is very convenient when working at height, in hard-to-reach places, at do-it-yourself plastering of slopes, when embedding ventilation pipes, when repairing balconies, etc.
solid secondary seal. It is not enough to know how to seal the mounting foam - it is important to consider that it changes in volume for several more hours after application. For cheap manufacturers, this change is shrinkage in nature - as a result, gaps can form between the door jamb and the dried foam. High-quality sealants do not differ in the formation of "slotted gaps" after solidification;
Viscosity and total installation volume of polyurethane sealants are highly dependent on application conditions - temperature and humidity, wind, etc. There are "all-weather" modifications of foam compositions, but they are also optimally used at air temperatures from +5 ˚C to +35 ˚C, moderate humidity and in calm weather.

In addition to direct installation tasks - that is, sealing gaps, filling seams, insulating dissimilar joints, etc. - the hardened foam has good thermal insulation and acoustic protection.

When installing window frames from wood and plastic, pay attention to the flammability class of the sealing mixtures used, it can be fire-fighting, combustible and self-extinguishing.

With the labeling of the combustible properties of dried polyurethane foam, some manufacturers show a certain cunning. They write on packages, cans and adapter tubes only the digital name of the flammability class, without verbal explanation. The average consumer may not be aware that:

B3 is a combustible compound that ignites even better than a wooden frame;
B2 is a self-extinguishing foam, and it can smolder for quite some time;
B1 - non-combustible mounting compound. Of course, the non-combustible property will affect the price of the sealant towards a solid increase.

The greatest harm to polyurethane sealants is caused by direct Sun rays. The influence of atmospheric precipitation and mechanical vibrations also has a bad effect on the durability of the treated joint, but to a lesser extent. Before sealing the mounting foam, you need to make sure that the additional protection is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

How to seal mounting foam - preliminary preparation

Some repair tips seem obvious, but the truth does not fade from repetition. Before puttying the mounting foam or tinting it upper layer, wait for the composition to dry completely. Make sure that it tightly fills the entire installation opening, that there are no gaps and delaminations, unevenness, etc. Deep gaps and cracks should not be protected from the sun, but re-sealed. Most polyurethane sealants turn yellow or yellowish when dry, this is normal.

First you need to decide how to protect the mounting foam - putty, special tape or paint. The fact is that under the putty or other "volumetric protection" you will need to cut a recess in the sealant, it is difficult to get used to it. Paints, adhesive tape and varnishes are applied to a flat surface;
With a sharp knife, cut off any excess material that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the slope or jamb. It is most convenient to take a special shoe knife with an oblique triangular blade - then it is easier to maintain an even cut line. And do not rush to quickly cut off the influxes. This is dangerous with an accidental cut of the hands, feet and damage to the hardened foam or a brand new frame;
After the cutting stage, a grinding procedure begins (it is not needed when puttying the seams). The dried foam is cleaned with a thin sandpaper. You will have to act manually and carefully - grinding mechanical devices can damage the frame, slope, door jamb, etc.

How to protect mounting foam - basic repair methods

Under the influence of sunlight, any mounting foam decomposes. Initially, it looks like a darkening of the material, after which it becomes brittle and crumbles from the cracks, like leaves in the wind. More precisely, even the wind is not required to destroy the sealant scorched by the sun. The process of "ultraviolet destruction" of mounting foam takes from 1 to several years - depending on the thickness of the layer, the angle of incidence of its rays, the quality of the foam itself and the thoroughness of its application, etc.

Of course, even the maximum four years is an unacceptably short period for overhaul. And the replacement of windows, doors, ventilation, etc. must be no less durable than installation shower tray - with your own hands it makes sense to create comfort for decades to come. When the preparation of the outer layer of foam is completed, we proceed to its processing using one of the selected methods:

Putty. How to cover the mounting foam on the windows? First, modified finishing plaster- with the addition of frost-resistant additives. Secondly, special liquid plastic. Thirdly, ordinary window putty with the addition liquid glass. All compositions are applied from the bottom up with neat strokes using a conventional spatula, the excess is wiped off with a sponge;
Special mounting tape. The fastest and cheapest method of protection - and it is also the most questionable in terms of aesthetics. Even if you match the adhesive tape to the color of the frames, you won’t be able to paint over it from above (coloring compositions will lead to peeling of the adhesive tape). If you are ready to glue all the joints with new tape every few months, you can try a quick decoration;
Paints and varnishes. Best to choose acrylate coloring compound, it has good adhesion with polyurethane foam. The paint is applied with a thin brush, moving from the bottom up to the corner of the frame or jamb. If you want a particularly strong protection of the foaming sealant, you can combine putty and acrylate painting - then the service life of the mounting foam will be comparable to the durability of the whole house.

Mounting foam has a lot of advantages - it is both a sealant, a heat insulator, and a retainer. High-quality polyurethane foam does not change its properties for decades, but only on one condition - if you cover it from ultraviolet rays! What could be better in this case than puttying foam?

If everyone who has ever dealt with construction or repair is familiar with the consumption rates of cement, putty, gypsum and other building materials, then the consumption rate of mounting foam is the same question for backfilling even for many specialists. On two absolutely identical objects, builders can use completely different volumes of polyurethane!

There may be several reasons:

The weather is the first reason to consider. At cold weather from the cylinder you will get a much smaller volume of foam than with a warm one. Manufacturers indicate temperature limits on the cylinder and honestly warn about such a feature, so claims can only be against nature! It is best to carry out work with the participation of mounting foam in the warm season, but if it becomes necessary to insulate the building or close up a hole in the wall in winter, use a special winter foam - it retains volume even at low temperatures. Of course, it also has a limit - minus 10 ° C.
Manufacturer - don't think that buying the same amount of foam cans from different manufacturers means you are buying the same amount of foam. You can't tell the difference by eye, but the weight will tell everything! Take cylinders from different manufacturers in your hands, and you will feel how some are much lighter, which means that there is much less foam. So you won’t be able to save on cheap products - you will pay for gas, and in the end it turns out that it was more profitable to buy a more expensive, but high-quality cylinder.
Application method - the volume of foam, or rather, the amount of work performed, depends on this factor no less than on the first two. There are two ways to apply foam: through the adapter tube, which comes with the so-called household cylinders, and through, which is purchased separately for special cylinders with appropriate valves.
The second method is also called professional, but in fact it would be much more correct to call it economical. It's simple - the gun very clearly regulates the foam supply (speed, strip thickness), thus reducing material consumption, while household cylinders give out the volume of foam, as they say, uphill. Professionals know that it takes 1.5 bottles of foam with a valve under mounting gun, A household cylinders get all four!
Banal theft - alas, but you can not argue with human nature. Selling unused building materials is a great way for a builder to make extra money. The only way to control it is to be present when the work is done. There can be many excuses for this, for example, say that you want to install a window in the barn yourself, and you would like to learn from a professional. If you need to control the team, put in the lead person you trust. It is impossible to completely eradicate this phenomenon, but theft will decrease.

If we take into account all the factors, we can get some average flow rate. If the manufacturer indicated a volume of 60 liters on the cylinder, in fact this means that you can use up a maximum of 48 - the rest may simply remain inside the cylinder due to a lack of gas that pushes the material out.

With a mounting joint width of 20 mm to 70 mm and a depth of up to 125 mm, the foam consumption per 1 meter of the joint will vary from 13 cm 3 to 100 cm 3. It turns out that 1 meter of the seam can go from 1/5 of the balloon to 1 ¾. To cut costs, you can use joint fillers such as Styrofoam. In some cases it is even necessary!

If we talk about consumption per 1 m 2, then the costs will increase significantly - by square meter area goes from 1 balloon to 5, depending on the thickness of the layer. Depending on the goals, you can also reduce costs due to the cheapness of the material, when quality and characteristics are not particularly important to you. For example, for soundproofing, it makes no sense to spend money on high-quality foam, and the cheapest Chinese foam will cope with this. But if you decide to use foam as an adhesive, then it is better to choose the highest quality - in any case, the consumption in such cases is low.

Is it possible to putty mounting foam and how to putty it - there are answers to both of these questions! Foam can and should be protected with putty or plaster, and fortunately, these materials are good friends with each other. Plastering is necessary, first of all, where one of two conditions is required:

Fire safety - in this case, the plaster layer should be about 8 cm! And the foam itself must be fireproof (class B1) and withstand exposure to an open source of fire from two to four hours. It is desirable that the foam be from a certified manufacturer. If these conditions are met, you can avoid sanctions from the fire inspectorate.
Decorative look - everything is clear with this. Putty on mounting foam provides not only protection, but also closes the contents of your walls from prying eyes, gives the repair a complete look. If you want to provide additional protection from mechanical damage use drywall.

So, let's get to work.

How to putty mounting foam - step by step diagram

Step 1: Smooth out the foam

The foam traditionally has a wave-like structure and when expanded, its excess sticks out in the most unusual positions. Puttying or plastering on such a surface will not work, so first trim the dried material (at least 7-12 hours after application). If plaster is used to protect the foam, then the seam must be further deepened by a few centimeters.

Step 2: Glue the tape

To protect a clean surface from stains, apply masking tape around the perimeter. The tape should be removed when the plaster has already been applied, smoothed and slightly dried.

Step 3: Working with the Blend

Almost any mixture will suit you for work on polyurethane foam, but the mixture has proven itself best Rotband. Follow the instructions on the package, knead and carefully, using a spatula, apply the mixture to the foam.

Step 4: Grout

When the material dries, the irregularities are rubbed with a construction mesh or sandpaper. Good polyurethane foam withstands pressure well, so you can not be afraid to apply force, as when grouting conventional plaster.

It is far from always advisable to spend money on the purchase of a plaster mixture and wages for workers. But you should still think about it - some methods are inexpensive, but no less effective than plaster. In addition, if the foam has a dense structure, it will have a rather nice appearance on a clean cut, which means that the “decorative” issue will not be so acute.

For cutting, it is best to use a foam hacksaw - it has special teeth that do not tear the material.

When this is inconvenient, use with an ordinary knife with a sharp blade. After trimming the foam, try to wipe problem areas with protrusions with coarse-grained sanding paper. Then you can use regular paint, preferably white or light colors. Modern compositions have special pigments that provide additional protection from ultraviolet radiation, but even a completely ordinary floor paint in several layers will perfectly protect the foam from direct sunlight.

Roofing felt, metal sheets, boards - all this can be used to protect polyurethane foam. If decorative look you don’t care at all, and the foam is under a constant shadow, it can be left uncovered - air and moisture have practically no effect on it.

How to seal the mounting foam - why is it necessary?

Popularity Secret this material is contained in its composition, as well as in operational characteristics. Polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant, the main components of which are polyol and isocyanate. Manufacturers also add a variety of auxiliary substances to the composition: blowing agent, stabilizer, catalyst, etc.

The main characteristics of the foam are: adhesion, output volume, viscosity, primary and secondary expansion. By composition, this building material is divided into two-component and one-component mixtures. In addition, foam can be professional and household, summer, winter and all-weather.

But few know that this multifunctional material itself requires protection. Sunlight and moisture have a detrimental effect on the mounting foam. Manufacturers do not forget to indicate this on foam cans. Maybe users are reading these recommendations, ...

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1 Polyurethane foam - material properties and its varieties?

We cover the mounting seams - the foam requires proper ...

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How to plaster mounting foam?

There are cavities, for example, sockets, filled with mounting foam. How to plaster them? What mixtures stick to mounting foam?

Very often, foam is used to seal joints when installing new plastic windows. In this case, the termination procedure here is somewhat different. The foam is also cut off with a knife. Further, the joint filled with foam is sealed with a wide hydro and vapor barrier tape, with adhesive and sticky layer. This tape has a layer of foil, so it also creates a heat-insulating screen. Now the entire joint, on both sides of the window, is covered with a primer from the sprayer, which contains an antifungal compound that prevents the formation of mold. And now, when the primer has dried up, you can safely apply the plaster with a rubber trowel. good producers, these are Ceresit, Knauf Rotband and Vetonit.

In general, it is desirable to seal the foam at the joint. To do this, we apply a two-component sealant with rubber ...

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After installing windows and doors, owners and master finishers often ask themselves the question - how to close up the mounting foam? You can cover it up using putty, sealant, paint and other materials. It is important to do this correctly, using the appropriate technique, which we will describe below.

If you need a professional master, use the VotMaster.ru exchange. Selection of a master for any work. Reviews, ratings, photos

Mounting foam - a convenient material?

Learning how to use foam correctly

Today, polyurethane foam is used in many construction work. It is a polyurethane foam two- or one-component sealant, which is available in a special aerosol can. It is applied in two cases:

For thermal insulation; seam sealing.

Suitable for materials such as wood, glass, metal, concrete. The main component of the foam is polyurethane, which was first created by Bayer in 1947. In the 70s and 80s...

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If from the inside, then you need to make normal slopes - sheet (sold in stores). Stucco slopes with Fuller or Rotband will crackle after the first winter. Plastic windows have a large coefficient of thermal expansion; they will crawl along the slope and a crack will appear. Thin, but see-through. Wooden windows do not make cracks in the slope. If from the street, then cover the foam with glue for tiles, it is elastic even after setting - it will not crackle, it has been checked and not on one window. It is necessary to close up the foam from the street, it is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, you can’t close it, it will turn brown in a year, in another year it will begin to crumble and the effect from it will be zero. Temporarily, the foam from the street can simply be painted over in several layers, with the paint that you have (not watercolor, of course). By the way, the paint can be periodically renewed, then you can not freeze with a solution, the main thing is that the ultraviolet foam does not ...

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Konstantin3_ (25.6.2008, 0:37) wrote:

Whether they put it in or not, I don’t know, I didn’t watch the installation, when I stand on the windowsill, it seems to bend a couple of millimeters. On the edge, where the window sill protrudes into the depths of the room (nine centimeters), the deflection is even a little stronger. There is a fear that the plaster layer, which will actually be under the edge, will not crack?
Already cut deep into the mounting foam. Thanks for the advice on tile adhesive, I'll take a look.
It will crack anyway.
I would advise fügenfüler or uniflot, but tile adhesive is also possible (maybe it will crack) and even gypsum plaster(rotband).
When the doors were put up, I spied on the builders.
I want to use the technology for slopes and foam embedding.
Putty should not be applied close to the window sill (movable element), but leave a gap of 3-5 mm, you can put fiberboard to make it smoother.
After the putty has cured, fill the gap with sealant or close it with plastic ...

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Valentina Gorbunova(Lokazyuk)
Tell me, please, how and with what to close up the places under the windowsill, where the mounting foam is visible, after installing the plastic windows. And outside, foam is also visible, already orange color.

Kostya G
Actually, this is a jamb of window installers. A scam, a bastard. Or they should have warned, they say we are doing our job, and you yourself will straighten the details. Anyway.
The mounting foam is cut off or picked out with a knife a centimeter and a half deep into the wall, so that only the gap remains. There, in this slot, we push the solution. Here I will not tell you the brand, we have other names. But you can use a cement-based, gypsum-based or combined solution. I would use the latter, where there is gypsum (alabaster) and cement and sand. We fill, then, these cracks with a spatula, so that it does not stick out of the wall. By the way, before filling, the surface must be dedusted (preferably with a vacuum cleaner) and moistened with water. In some cases, it may not be harmful to treat with a primer, ...

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The Cherkasy Moscow Forum is categorically opposed to the introduction of Russian troops into the territory of sovereign Ukraine. None of the "humanitarian convoys", "diplomatic paths", "friendly people" and "lost paratroopers" cannot be true to the military invasion of Russian foreigners with the method of destabilizing our country and other mki separatists.

Donbas - tse Ukraine, Krim - tse Ukraine, and there is war in Ukraine.

To this we call all the unbelievers to unite for the sake of a good dream - win! Let's help our army to defend our country and take out the guards for the cordon. For whom, on the forum, an okremium has been created

Url Hidden, de all heavens can help our military people to support our land.

Together we will overcome! Glory...

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How to cover up mounting foam - we create the perfect solution 01/09/2013

How to cover up mounting foam - a question that Lately occurs frequently. Various external factors lead to a deterioration in the condition of the mounting foam, which in some cases may not be able to cope with its intended purpose. Therefore, we will consider proven methods that will allow you to cover up mounting foam without special costs time and effort, but guarantee the quality and reliability that modern metal plastic windows.

How to cover mounting foam - reliable protection Rehau windows for a long time

Mounting foam as a result of exposure to moisture, light and other factors after some time loses its qualities. Including, the foam will dry out, gradually gaining moisture. There should also be a violation of the features of thermal insulation. Therefore, experts recommend that you think over the slopes and sealing the foam from the outside and under the windowsill in advance. The slopes in the windows are of great importance - after all, it is ...

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Mounting foam is a polyurethane foam sealant. Foam consists of 2 main components - Methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) and polyols. In the production of foam, various auxiliary agents are used: catalysts, blowing agent, stabilizers, etc. Terms commonly used to describe foam:

Prepolymer: - product formed by chemical reaction connection of hydroxyl ends of polyalcohols and isocyanate groups of MDI that occurred inside the balloon. Propellant (from the English propellant - propellant gas): - a mixture of gases in the cylinder, partly in the gas phase, partly liquefied, partly dissolved in the prepolymer. The propellant has two main functions: pushing the prepolymer out of the balloon and generating foam bubbles. Mounting foam (household). Hardened polyurethane foam, a demonstration item at the exhibition.

Foam characteristics:

The volume of foam output: characterized by the amount of...

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The fast curing of the mounting foam contributes to strong bonding, so it is quite difficult to clean it.

There is a very annoying situation when, when installing a door, it is not possible to achieve the accuracy when foaming that we would like. So, the door is stained with mounting foam. And the question immediately arises: how to clean the mounting foam? A person unprepared in this matter will miss precious time, and it will be much more difficult to clean the surface after the composition has solidified. The composition that has not yet solidified is cleaned much easier. Therefore, when planning work in which it is supposed to use mounting foam, you should think about cleaning it in advance, which is an indispensable condition for using foam.

It is well known that this product includes polyurethane foam, which has a high degree of adhesion (setting). Adhesion is considered an important characteristic and because of this property, foam has found its way into the installation of doors and windows....

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Door installation

One of the indicators correct installation doors is that when opening the door leaf remains motionless in any position, that is, in whatever position we leave the door leaf, spontaneous opening or closing of the door does not occur. This can only be achieved with strict vertical installation doors. Door hinges must be lubricated and vertical. If the door is installed vertically and the hinges deviate from the vertical, the door leaf will "pull" the hinges and it will open or close. Pay attention to this when inserting hinges. Most often, the hinges “pull” the door with an unequal depth of cut into the frame or door leaf. If such a marriage is found, then you need to either “drown” all the samples to the same depth, or put chips under the “drowned” sample.

The second indicator is correct installed door is the same thickness of the gap in the door porch. Door leaf must be clearly defined...

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It is necessary to work with mounting foam carefully, as it sticks strongly to the surface. When you make repairs using it, then along with all the current questions, the question will arise of how to remove the mounting foam. Let's just say that this is not easy to do.

It is easiest to deal with foam that has not yet hardened. It is carefully removed with a sharp object until it sticks to the surface. When 10-15 minutes have passed since it got on the clothes, the cleaning process becomes more complicated.

mechanical way

From work clothes, on which there are already a lot of complex stains, it makes no sense to wash the foam. In relation to it, they perform the following simple actions:

Cut with a knife; scraped off with a blade or a stiff brush; rubbed with acetone.

But what if she got on a practically new tracksuit, jeans or shirt? In this case, you want to wash off the yellow marks so that no trace remains of them. Do we have a chance?

Freezer

Put...

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If earlier they used to fill building cavities cement mortar or mineral wool tapes, today polyurethane foam has replaced the old materials. It is much more convenient and much more practical. Foam is easy to apply, and at the same time it is able to fill the smallest gaps and cracks. It is easy to use as it is immediately ready for use. It is distinguished by good heat and sound insulation properties. And due to its astringent properties, foam is even used for gluing various insulation materials on walls or ceilings.

After the door frame is already installed in the opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally, you can proceed to fix it with mounting foam. First you need to protect door frame, since the foam that has fallen on the surface will then be very difficult to remove. Still “fresh” foam, you can try to eliminate it with a solvent or some kind of alcohol-containing liquid. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically. That's why...

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How to cover up mounting foam is a question that has recently arisen quite often. Various external factors lead to a deterioration in the condition of the mounting foam, which in some cases may not be able to cope with its intended purpose. Therefore, we will consider proven methods that will allow you to cover up the mounting foam without much time and effort, but guarantee the quality and reliability that modern metal-plastic windows need.

How to cover mounting foam- reliable window protectionRehau for the long term

Mounting foam as a result of exposure to moisture, light and other factors after some time loses its qualities. Including, the foam will dry out, gradually gaining moisture. There should also be a violation of the features of thermal insulation. Therefore, experts recommend that you think over the slopes and sealing the foam from the outside and under the windowsill in advance. Slopes in windows are of great importance - after all, they allow you to hide the presence of assembly seams, contributing to the long-term operation of the entire structure as a whole. First of all, one must define optimal material for slopes.

Dry mixes are the easiest option. The slope can be done using standard plaster. But for this option, the preparation of the wall for the material is initially required. In the presence of large gaps, a layer of mortar is required to be applied to the wall, using a special mixture. Among the necessary tools should be noted putty for outdoor work, gloves, a small knife, a trowel, water and a container for the solution.

How to cover mounting foam- a proven set of actions

Cut off the excess dried foam from the outside of the joints. When used for sealing putty, it is recommended to cut the mounting foam deep into a few millimeters for a thicker layer of sealant on the outside. Recommended Smooth surface frozen foam.

Next, putting on gloves, we prepare a sealant solution for outdoor work. To do this, we do not need a lot of solution, so it would be better to mix less, then you can add as needed. Instructions for preparing the solution are contained on the packaging of the material.

The mass of putty is applied with a knife or a trowel - we choose taking into account personal preferences and the place of embedding, we level the surface. After drying a very thin layer of putty, cracks may occur. To avoid such a nuisance, it is better to apply a solution layer of several millimeters - taking into account appearance the buildings.

In this way, it is possible to protect the mounting foam from exposure to the rays of the sun, which can lead to a destructive effect. Thanks to this, it is also possible to protect the foam from moisture, which, when penetrated from the outside, leads to the destruction of slopes and other elements of the connection. The aesthetics of the building are also improved.

best effect white slope achieved with the use of a water-based mixture for plastering. The work is carried out using special tools. A slope of plaster mixes will be an excellent choice for the outside.

Slopes from plastic panel

It is much easier to make a slope from a plastic panel. From a large panel according to the dimensions of the slope, pieces should be cut for 3 sides of the window. A special plastic rail secures the panel to the window.

Side panels are installed at an angle of 90-110 degrees relative to the window. Each panel is fixed to the wall, with mounting foam filling the gap between the old slope and the window - for better insulation. After the foam dries, we get rid of the dried residues. We close the resulting gap between the panel and the wall by tightly adjoining the F-shaped rail.

Plasterboard slopes are performed like plastic ones. Installation can be carried out in two ways - installation of prepared panels on a profile or gluing on glue. Thermal insulation is provided by insulated mineral wool. After installation, the plasterboard panels are treated with a primer. Next comes the painting. To ensure a completely even corner, a painting steel corner is glued to the drywall corner using putty.

All this proves the possibility of using various methods when finishing slopes of PVC windows. Today, plastic windows remain the preferred option, which become a guarantee excellent properties hydro and thermal insulation, durability and reliability. Usage plasterboard slopes contributes to the preservation of heat and resistance to moisture. But the plastering of slopes as a finish is outdated, given the rather weak protective properties, which are not enough for modern windows PVC.

How to cover mounting foam- help of professionals, confidence in every decision

Still, work with window and door structures requires some preparation and experience for the reliability and quality of the result. Therefore, for many, it is preferable to turn to professionals who can guarantee the declared result according to affordable prices- the company's website always provides data on services, detailed information can be clarified with managers. We cover the mounting seams and perform related work according to modern quality standards.

After installing windows, doors, when joining building plates, an eternal question arises, namely: how to seal mounting foam? The answer is simple, you can fix it with sealant, putty, paint, plaster and other mixtures. We will consider a more detailed answer on puttying mounting foam below.

By the way, improper operating conditions usually include excessive humidity in the room where foam is used or, on the contrary, active sunlight.

So that the mounting foam does not crack, does not begin to dry out and lose its heat-shielding properties, it must be covered with sealant or protective paint!

How to plaster mounting foam

So, now let's figure out how to plaster mounting foam. The process begins with the removal of excess material, that is, we cut off the excess foam with a knife or cutter, and then deepen it inward by 5-7 millimeters! More is not needed, because if the area is large, then there will be too much plaster consumption, but less is not desirable, because otherwise the plaster may lie poorly and gradually peel off.

The choice of putty and the preparation of the mixture

The second question that confronts us is what kind of plaster to choose, but this is also a solvable problem. It is best to choose a frost-resistant putty that will not succumb to climatic influences. If you are interested in the name, then we advise you to putty brand - ROTBAND. Also note that it is necessary to prepare the putty mixture before direct use, for 5-10 minutes. Instructions for preparing the solution are always written on reverse side packaging, but the classic use of plaster is: add the mixture to water and stir until there are no lumps, if they still appear, you need to add a little more warm water.

After preparing the plaster, we need to apply the mixture to the foam. We repeat once again that it is necessary to apply a layer of at least 6 mm. Because with a thin layer, the plaster can simply crack, and this is fraught with redone work. Before the plaster dries completely, it is necessary to take a fine-grained sandpaper or construction mesh and level the surface.