Insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside. Useful tips: how to best insulate a bathhouse. What is the best way to insulate a bath? hit parade of bath insulators

In order for high temperatures to be present in the bathhouse for the longest possible time, and the costs of maintaining it to be minimal, you need to think about high-quality insulation of the building. Thanks to the thermal insulation layer, the interior of the bathhouse will quickly heat up and cool down slowly, and the service life of the building will significantly increase. We suggest you figure out how to properly insulate the walls in a bathhouse from the inside and outside.

Materials for bath insulation

When deciding how to insulate the walls in a bathhouse, you will definitely encounter the problem of choosing insulation. When purchasing a heat insulator, you need to take it into account specifications and standard sizes, environmental friendliness and fire safety.

Types of thermal insulation materials:

• Mineral (basalt) wool. The most popular option for an insulator that promotes best preservation heat in the bath. The new generation of mineral wool insulation is produced using not formaldehyde, but chemically neutral acrylic that does not emit toxic substances when heated.
• Peat blocks filled with sawdust and straw. They are characterized by bacterial static, non-flammability, and hygroscopicity.
• Foam glass. Environmentally friendly insulation that perfectly retains its operational properties over time, but heavy in weight and expensive.
• Cork mats. They do not absorb moisture, do not deform, and retain heat well.
• Polyurethane foam boards. With aluminum coating on both sides. Used for insulation of Finnish baths.
• Expanded polystyrene, foam plastic. It is used as an insulator for insulating bathhouse walls from the outside, but not from the inside, because its destruction occurs at +60 degrees, and carcinogens are released.
• Natural insulation. Felt, wool, reeds, sawdust, moss, flax, straw, hemp - materials that have been used for insulation of Russian baths from time immemorial. It is not recommended to use it without special treatment to avoid rotting and damage by rodents.

How to perform insulation

Thermal insulation of bathhouse walls is carried out comprehensively, always insulating the building from the inside, and in some cases, both from the outside and from the inside. Log and timber baths As a rule, they do not insulate the outside, but only the steam room and washing room from the inside. Baths made of bricks and foam blocks - materials with high thermal conductivity - must be insulated from the outside to ensure the required temperature conditions inside the building. To insulate the bathhouse externally, first install the sheathing, secure the thermal insulation, wind and moisture-proof membrane, and at the final stage - the outer cladding.

Stages of insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside

• Cleaning, sealing and filling of cracks in the base base. The walls of a bathhouse made of logs or timber are caulked with jute or linen insulation, minor defects in brick and foam concrete planes are corrected with sealants.
• Treatment with antiseptics, preventing the spread of pathogenic microorganisms, and fire retardants, reducing the likelihood of fire.
• Installation of wooden sheathing for installation of heat insulator. The width of the sheathing step is selected based on the width of the insulation (1 cm less), and the thickness of the bars - based on its thickness.
• Installation of insulation. By cutting a roll of mineral wool into strips of the required width or using slabs of a certain standard size, you can ideally install the material in the wooden frame of the bathhouse - in the spacer between the guides of the sheathing.

• Installation of vapor barrier. The optimal material for quickly insulating a bathhouse with your own hands is a rolled or slab mineral wool insulator with a foil layer. It’s like a “2 in 1” - a material that can significantly reduce installation time and acts as an effective heat protection and vapor barrier. If the insulation does not have a metallized coating, then it is recommended to cover it with a vapor barrier film with an overlap of at least 5 cm, for example, Ondutis R Termo - a vapor barrier with heat-saving properties that can withstand temperatures up to +120 degrees and returns 80% of the heat back into the room. After installation, all joints of the insulator are glued with foil (aluminum) tape.

• Finishing. The inside of the bathhouse is traditionally sheathed with wooden clapboard, for the installation of which an additional 2-3 cm thick batten is attached to the sheathing fixed for installing the insulation. It will serve as the basis for fastening the clapboard and will create the necessary ventilation gap between the front sheathing and the vapor barrier. This way, the condensate that forms can flow down unhindered, leaving the lining dry.

The stages of internal insulation of a bathhouse built of wood, brick or foam blocks are almost identical, only the thickness of the heat insulator varies. It is advisable to install a double layer of insulation in the steam room to retain heat for a longer time. Some professionals do not recommend insulating log, timber and frame baths at all or using a thin insulator - wood already retains heat very well, in their opinion.

When insulating the walls of a brick bath, galvanized bricks are used instead of wooden blocks. steel profile. When installing a heat insulator to walls made of foam blocks, you need to think about redistributing the load - optimally if it falls not on the walls, but on the floor. For this purpose, a vertical sheathing is used, fixed to the ceiling and floor, secured to the walls with galvanized clamps.

Conclusion

When deciding how to insulate the walls of a bathhouse, you need to carefully approach the purchase of thermal insulation material. For external wall insulation baths will do inexpensive polystyrene foam, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, facing bricks or hollow ceramic blocks. For internal insulation of a bathhouse, you can use both natural, time-tested materials and modern ones. We must also not forget about reliable vapor barrier, condensate removal and heat conservation of the bath.

The main function of the Russian bath is to strengthen human health. To achieve this goal and in no way harm your body while visiting the bathhouse, you must properly insulate the bathhouse. If you follow all the rules for insulating this type of room, the heat in the bathhouse is maintained long time, which allows you to save significantly cash spent on its heating.

The process of insulating walls in a bathhouse

In most cases, insulation must be done indoors. This allows you to quickly heat the bath and also quickly cool it if necessary. The bathhouse has the following properties:

• Relatively low air temperature 50-60 degrees;
• High humidity. Sometimes it can reach 100%.

Step-by-step internal insulation of a bathhouse

In order for these indicators to remain normal, you should not only properly insulate the bathhouse, but also use for this purpose proven over the years and proven performance.

Existing types of insulation for baths

All of them, without exception, must meet the following safety requirements:

1. Do not violate, but only maintain a healthy atmosphere in the bathhouse.
2. Resistance to air temperature changes.
3. No harmful impurities released into the atmosphere.
4. Without smell.
5. Fire resistance.

All these indicators should be taken into account in the process of general insulation of a bathhouse, especially when choosing insulation for a steam room.

Insulation scheme for a steam room in a bathhouse

Nowadays, there are many completely different products on the market. different types insulation materials. Among them, the most popular and popular among buyers are the following types.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a natural material with a fibrous structure. It is obtained by processing mineral stone, some of its rocks, for example, basalt rock. Vata has a number useful properties. These include:

Mineral wool sheets for bath insulation

Mineral wool comes in different densities and hardnesses. In specialized stores it can be purchased in the form of soft rolls, semi-rigid mats or hard slabs. It all depends on what purposes it is intended for. In other words, it will be used to insulate the bathhouse from the inside, or vice versa from the outside.

Glass wool

Glass wool in its technical indicators lags significantly behind mineral wool. It is made using glass, or rather, its waste remaining during its production.

The process of finishing a bath room with glass wool

Glass is mixed with soda, sand and dolomite. The result is high-quality insulation.

It is recommended to insulate a bathhouse with glass wool only from the outside, as it does not tolerate high temperatures well. And over time, it begins to smell quite unpleasant. Basically, glass wool is used to insulate the attic and roof of the bathhouse.

Jute felt

It is also called the interventional type of insulation. Felt made from jute fiber is a natural material of natural origin. It is produced from the fibers of the jute plant.

This is what a roll of jute felt looks like

Jute fiber is mainly used to make ropes. It is also used to produce fabric - burlap. Everywhere they use it to insulate a bathhouse, namely its walls.

Jute is able to retain heat well indoors and also removes excess moisture from it. The jute fiber itself is quite fragile and rigid. That's why, to strengthen it thermal insulation properties flax fibers are added to it. The most famous brands of this insulation are flax jute, felt, and flax wool.


All of them are collected in tape reels. It is characterized by such properties as resistance to subsidence and drying out, and the felt practically does not rot.

Expanded clay

This is a material with thermal insulation properties. It is mainly used for insulating floors and in bathhouses. Expanded clay looks like small balls. Their production is associated with a process such as rapid firing of clay.

An example of insulating floors in a bathhouse with expanded clay

Thermal insulation of a chimney with expanded clay

Used as one of the types of backfill. The thermal insulation effect is achieved when the backfill layer reaches a height of at least 25 centimeters.

Styrofoam

It is used for insulating external walls. The material is covered all over, then it is plastered or covered with cladding.

An example of finishing a bath with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam cannot be used to insulate walls inside the building itself. It releases phenol into the atmosphere. Polystyrene foam is unable to withstand elevated temperatures and does not have sufficient fire resistance.
Watch the video for a review of bath insulation.

An example of fastening insulation in a frame bath

They are first covered with a protective film and only then the insulation - basalt wool - is fixed.

The process of installing a vapor barrier in a frame bath

In the steam compartment, a vapor barrier film with foil is additionally used.

Insulation of a log bathhouse

A bathhouse made of wood practically does not need insulation. The only places that are subject to this process are inter-crown joints. For thermal insulation, jute fiber is used with the addition of flax elements.

Detailed diagram insulation of a log bathhouse

The steam room of the bathhouse is also subject to additional insulation. Mineral wool is suitable as insulation for it. Foil is used to vapor barrier walls.

Insulation of a block bath

The insulation of a block-type bathhouse is similar to the process of insulation of a brick bathhouse. To begin with, the walls of the bathhouse are insulated from the outside. This will allow you to maintain the optimal temperature in the room. The walls from the inside are traditionally lined with aspen clapboard. It is the most suitable option because it has low thermal conductivity.

Diagram and names of elements for insulation block bath

In addition to this insulation, the walls in the steam room are covered with a so-called warm layer. It consists of a layer of mineral wool surrounded on both sides by foil or vapor barrier film.

The process of installing a wooden frame on blocks

Having thus completed all the necessary steps to insulate a block bath, you can achieve relative ease in warming up the room to certain temperature levels and maintaining it for as long as required.

Proper insulation of individual bath blocks

Any bathhouse needs good thermal protection. At the same time, each individual block of the bathhouse must be insulated in its own way. Not only modern types of expensive insulation are suitable for this. Since the time of our grandfathers, simple and affordable materials have been known. So how and with what can you insulate a bathhouse yourself?

Names of elements and principle of insulation of a bath room

Insulation of the bathhouse foundation

For its insulation, only those types of insulation are suitable that have the following properties:

1. Resistance to high humidity.
2. Biological resistance to various types of damage.
3. Ability to withstand temperature changes.

Polystyrene foam has these properties. With its help they do it immediately after it hardens. In this case, sheets of cellular foam are fixed along the outside of the base of the bath.

Bathhouse foundation insulation scheme

The thickness of these layers should be 5 cm. It is best to use 2 layers of styrofoam, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.




As additional insulation, the foundation is covered with warm plaster.

Read also

Construction of a sewer system for a bathhouse

Bathroom floor insulation

Traditionally, the floor in the bathhouse is wooden flooring. There are two types of flooring:

1. Leaking floor. This is the name given to a cold floor, where there are small gaps between the boards. Through them, water flows from the bathhouse to the street.
2. Non-leaking floor. This is the so-called solid floor. It differs from the previous gender in a way. This floor is made with a slight slope in one direction. A special water collector is made in the basement of the bathhouse.

The process of insulating the floor in a bathhouse

Only floors that do not leak can be insulated in a bathhouse. At the same time, two types of insulation are suitable for such purposes: expanded clay and basalt wool. They fill all the cracks between two floorings: rough and finishing. It should not be forgotten that both of these materials need protection from moisture. It is performed both from the outside and from the inside. If the bathhouse has a concrete floor, then polystyrene foam or mineral wool in the form of hard mats are used to insulate it.

The process of laying foil material on the floor

In the steam room, the concrete floor is not insulated at all. To protect from the cold, you just need to put wooden gratings on top of it. IN washing department For a concrete floor, a so-called underfloor heating system is created.

Insulation of bath walls

In the process of insulating the walls of a bathhouse, it is especially worth paying attention to their costs. To enhance the protection of walls from moisture, it is not a film specially designed for this that is used, but insulation with a reflection effect or foil.

Wall insulation scheme in a bathhouse

When installing such insulation, be sure to leave a small gap between it and the finishing of the bathhouse.

An example of laying mineral wool on the walls in a bathhouse

When installing upholstery, it is advisable to use lathing. It is fixed on top of the mirror side of the insulation. The mirror film is fixed on the walls in a vertical position. In this case, avoid stretching the strips.

The process of attaching foil to the walls in a bathhouse

Since this material is quite thin, the foil on the wall is made of two layers. All joints between strips are taped with special tape.

In stone baths, basalt wool is used for additional wall insulation. It is protected on both sides by hydro-vapor barriers.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bathhouse

The ceiling, like no other part of the bathhouse, needs reliable thermal protection. Heated sauna air comes out most of all through him. The bathhouse ceiling can be insulated in two ways. These include:

Previously, sawdust with leaves was used to properly insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse. Dry sand at least 5 cm thick was poured on top. The ceilings were covered with a layer of liquid clay. This method of ceiling insulation is quite popular and is still used today.

Bathhouse roof insulation

The roof of the bathhouse is insulated using a standard insulation scheme. Exactly according to the same scheme. The insulation is selected based on how the bathhouse attic will be used in the future.

Scheme for installing insulation on the roof of a bathhouse

If it is planned, then in this case the roof will be covered with mineral wool.
If the attic is planned to be used only for household needs, then mineral wool can be replaced with glass wool.


This will help to significantly save money allocated for the purchase of insulation.

An example of foil thermal insulation on a ceiling

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention to, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then the heat will not stay in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bathhouse from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, this is where you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• façade panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

Scheme of wall insulation in a bathhouse.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Scheme of floor insulation in a bathhouse.

Scheme of insulating a bathhouse from the outside.

Insulating a steam room with your own hands: step by step instructions(video and photo)

Insulating a steam room with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to read the step-by-step instructions and prepare everything you need for work.

Insulating a steam room from the inside step-by-step instructions

Insulating the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bathhouse will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of a given room can be called high-quality if insulation work has been carried out on the ceiling, floor and walls.

The temperature in the steam room must be maintained at a high temperature. At the same time, heat loss must be minimized, and insulating the steam room from the inside will help achieve the required level of thermal protection. When constructing a bathhouse building, this room should be equipped according to all the rules.

The better the thermal protection of the steam room, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and the longer the steam will be able to remain in it, which has a beneficial effect on the human body. Regardless of the material used to build the bathhouse, the insulation process certainly consists of thermal insulation of the ceiling, flooring and walls.

Materials used in arranging steam rooms

To insulate the steam room internally, in former times people used exclusively environmentally friendly materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to rotting.

Modern materials meet many of the requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• tolerate high air humidity well;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to thermally insulate the steam room from the inside, the following building materials are used:

• wooden slats(for arranging the sheathing);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete solution;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before insulating a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside, you should prepare the following tools:

For the internal lining of the steam room, wooden slats, boards or lining are most often chosen, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is wood that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Low-density deciduous wood is ideal - alder, maple, linden and aspen. As for coniferous trees, at high temperatures their wood will begin to release resin.

Insulation of steam room walls from the inside

Properly performed insulation of the walls of a steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro- and heat insulating. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. If it penetrates into the insulation, this material may become wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, a vapor barrier is installed using aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor barriers as roofing felt, polyethylene, glassine when covering a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil prevents the insulation from getting wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which heat will be retained indoors for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture. The fact is that poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely the air in the steam room, can trigger the onset of the rotting process. The appearance of mold and mildew on walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and human health.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the panels must be sealed with tape to prevent steam and condensation from penetrating into the insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using construction stapler.

The next layer when creating thermal protection for the steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is made using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above-mentioned insulation materials is an environmentally friendly natural product. But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool it is necessary for everyone possible ways to prevent the penetration of moist air, so this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore can be used to insulate a steam room from the inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside - step-by-step instruction suggests that work should begin by fixing wooden sheathing to the walls, to which insulation is then installed.

Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat loss in the steam room occurs due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since warm air flows always rise upward. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the room side, but also from the attic side.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling on the steam room side is carried out in the same way as it is done with walls. First of all, the wooden sheathing is fixed. Then a thermal insulation material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. It is covered with a vapor barrier on top, and an outer finishing layer is installed on it - most often lining.

As for the ceiling on the attic side, it can additionally be insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. Near the chimney pipe for protection fire safety special mastics are used.

Currently, various floor coverings are installed in steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with expanded polystyrene. This material is characterized by high mechanical strength, fairly low thermal conductivity, and in addition, once in a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When using it to insulate a steam room from the inside, the step-by-step work looks like this:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on a prepared, level base using a special film, on which polystyrene foam boards are laid tightly one to the other.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase its service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the polystyrene foam and concrete mortar is poured. When performing work, you must not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure water drainage.
3. After the concrete has completely hardened, which usually takes about a month, you can begin laying the finishing floor surface. A good option is to lay ceramic tiles.

You can also insulate the steam room floor using a natural material such as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts perlite and part water, mix and combine with cement. Mix the whole mass thoroughly.

The base of the steam room floor is poured concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then the screed is made again and the work is completed with a finishing floor covering made of finishing material.

Sometimes in a steam room, wooden gratings are placed on a high-quality concreted, durable and reliable floor, which should be periodically dried during operation to avoid rotting and rapid deterioration.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required to carry out the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: insulation in the steam bath from the outside

Often the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention to, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then the heat will not stay in it for a long time. That’s why it’s so important to insulate the bathhouse from the inside. paying special attention to the steam room. After all, this is where you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to insulate the steam room with high quality, performing all the work in stages. Below are step-by-step instructions. She will help you in this difficult, but so important matter.

What will be required to carry out the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to insulate the steam room. Here is their list:

• rolled thermal insulation material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for cladding (linden, aspen);
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• facade panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Scheme of ceiling insulation in the steam room.

First of all, thermal insulation in the steam room should be done for the ceiling. First you will need to cover it with rolled paper; it is important that its joints overlap (from 10 to 15 cm). After this, it needs to be strengthened, otherwise deformation will occur during further work. To do this, you need to take small blocks (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to a roll of thermal insulation material.

It is important here to create a monolithic coating so that seams with cracks do not form, otherwise the tightness of the waterproofing will be compromised.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the rolled thermal insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its performance characteristics.

Scheme of the ceiling in the steam room.

Now you need to secure the foil with additional blocks. This will prevent it from peeling off, and the finished sheathing will also allow you to quickly lay down the finishing material. Wood should act as it. The use of non-ecological materials here is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale the harmful substances that they emit when taking water treatments in the bath. As a result, instead of improving your health, you will, on the contrary, worsen it. It’s great if you use linden or aspen for cladding the ceiling. These materials emit special resins that heal the body and make the atmosphere in the bathhouse better, as a pleasant smell spreads.

You can attach the finishing material to nails, making sure to pre-treat them with an anti-corrosion compound. The wood itself must be coated with a water-repellent varnish. It is better to do this before it is fixed to the ceiling. After all, then you will be able to process it from all sides at once, which will extend its service life.

Using boards you need to create an even surface. To prevent misalignment, be sure to use a building level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating cannot be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

Scheme of wall insulation in a bathhouse.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. The walls also need additional finishing using insulating materials. Therefore, having completed work with the ceiling, you will need to move on to them. It is also necessary to start insulating walls by laying out rolled material. It must then be nailed down with a wooden frame, which is immediately lined with foil. But here it is necessary to take it with a thickness of 65-70 mm. After all, much more heat escapes through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore, the use of thinner material here is not permissible. Lay it out overlapping, and cover all joints several times with masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as airtight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After this, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed to the surface of the walls. And the finishing material is already installed on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. you can choose lining for the walls. By the way, you can also decorate the ceiling with it, but then the insulation in the steam bath will cost a pretty penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to opt for this material. The aesthetic and performance properties will not disappoint you. The wall decoration will turn out great and will delight you every time you take water treatments.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Scheme of floor insulation in a bathhouse.

Now you can insulate the floor in the steam room. Here the work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first thing you need to do is waterproofing. It is necessary to prevent mold, mildew and rot from appearing inside the floor. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use plastic film. It is laid out over the entire surface of the floor. If there are seams, make large joints and seal them with masking tape.

Next you will need to create another layer on top of the film. It must be laid out from clean, thick paper. It is necessary to ensure that no harmful substances are released from the base of the floor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. It will definitely need to be secured to a wooden frame of small width. And you need to lay out mineral wool slabs on the frame and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Then the following material is laid out on the floor surface: polystyrene foam. It needs to be attached on top of the cotton wool using small nails. After which you will need to cover it with foil and put plastic wrap on it again. So many layers need to be created in order to minimize heat leakage through the floor, which occurs through it in large quantities. As a result, the insulation will be of very high quality.

And the last thing you need to do is create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is necessary for subsequent finishing. After all, you will need to lay boards on the floor surface. Pre-treat them with water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: insulation in the steam bath from the outside

If your bathhouse is wooden, then you must insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here you need to create a crate outside the bathhouse; mineral wool slabs should be laid on it. They need to be fixed with screws or nails. After which it is lined with plastic film. Next, the façade panels are laid on it. All of them must be varnished. This will protect them from adverse environmental factors.

Insulation in a steam bath consists of these stages. As it becomes clear, complex work needs to be carried out here. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor; you also need to not forget about the ceiling and external cladding. This is the only way to do quality work. The result will not disappoint you. And since all the instructions are presented in an accessible form and are step-by-step, using it, you can do everything yourself.

The main thing is to prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials. We wish you good luck in insulating your steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands

Preface. In Rus', since ancient times, bathhouses were built from log cabins; today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam block, expanded clay and other modern materials are used. Thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem quick loss the heat and heat from the steam room will not leave so quickly.

How to properly insulate a steam room wooden bath? Thermal insulation of the dressing room and steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat escapes through the ceiling of the bathhouse, but other surfaces should not be ignored, including the door to the bathhouse. Let's look at how to properly insulate a steam room in a bathhouse.

Is it necessary to insulate the steam room in a bathhouse?

Photo. Insulating a steam room from the inside with your own hands

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation structures in the steam room - walls, floor and ceiling. Insulating a steam room is a very important task; when working, you should strictly follow the manufacturers’ instructions and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and steam insulating materials can be used when finishing the floor and ceiling in a bathhouse. Many materials do not withstand moisture, and if used in this room roofing felt or glassine, then a visit to the steam room can be ruined unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is made depending on the material from which the bathhouse was built.

How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside

The most common materials for the construction of bathhouse walls are logs, timber, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete. Compared to natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology for carrying out the work, you should figure out how and how to insulate a steam room in a timber bathhouse with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then high-quality mineral wool vapor barrier should be performed, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced solution for finishing wet rooms is penoplex or foil penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for self-insulation strip foundation and blind area of ​​a private house.

For owners of bathhouses made of blocks, there is no question of whether or not to thermally insulate the room from the inside. It is important to learn how to insulate a steam room in a block bathhouse yourself. Thermal insulation technology is divided into three main stages: arrangement and insulation of the walls, floor, and ceiling of the steam room of a brick bath. All work can be done on your own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of a steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a log steam room

Thermal insulation of log walls in a steam room from the inside is a layered “pie” of vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing layer. The vapor barrier film on the side of the warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and the effects of steam; in addition, it additionally creates the effect of a “thermos” in the steam room and is a natural heat reflector.

Roll waterproofing prevents moisture from entering walls made of logs or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus, and prevents the process of rotting of the structure. To do this, use polyethylene film, foamed polyethylene or foil. The waterproofing film is laid between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in the steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is placed between guides fixed to the wall. When installing the frame, please note that the distance between the guides should be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt slab fits tightly into the frame. If you use slab insulation, then all cracks should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate a steam room ceiling with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

If many people neglect the thermal insulation of walls, then insulating the ceiling in a steam room with your own hands is simply necessary in any bathhouse. Since this part of any building is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Through the ceiling of the steam room, hot air leaves the room in a short time.

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, inexpensive base materials were previously used - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. The ceiling boards above the steam room were covered with loose thermal insulation, thereby significantly reducing heat loss in the room. These “old-fashioned” methods, even with the arrival of new materials, until today have not lost their relevance.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in a steam room is thermal insulation of this structure from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, you should use non-flammable insulation - expanded clay or Rocklight mineral wool. Let's consider further how to insulate the floor in a steam room.

How to insulate a steam room floor with your own hands

Photo. Insulating the floor in a steam room with penoplex

Let's consider a more common option for thermal insulation of the floor in a steam room - using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex extrusion answers everything necessary requirements requirements for thermal insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture and is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should only be laid on a flat base.

Most often, the floor in a bathhouse is insulated under a screed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect against groundwater, then slab insulation. Gaps and cracks between the plates should be sealed with foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. To waterproof concrete, penetrating composition Penetron or liquid glass should be used.

To finish the floor in the steam room, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used. You can also lay a wooden floor on joists, which will be more pleasant and warm for your feet.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, a bathhouse loses its meaning of existence. During the construction of baths, special attention is paid to this room. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bath procedures at the highest level. A main job builders - insulate the steam room in the bathhouse in such a way as to eliminate prolonged heating and rapid cooling, and increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed thermal insulation work and the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to the appearance of dampness, mold, and rotting of wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to carefully and step-by-step carry out work on insulating the steam room from the inside; step-by-step instructions will help you correctly navigate the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

Choice of insulation

A steam room is a specific room, so the choice of thermal insulation materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. The insulation for the steam room must be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, and not emit toxic substances. Mineral wool, or more precisely its variety - stone or basalt wool, most closely fits these definitions. It is also produced in the form of slabs of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material is easily cut with a regular construction knife, so stone wool slabs are very easy to adjust to the required dimensions. To furnish the floor and ceiling on the outside, loose insulation materials are used - expanded clay or expanded perlite.

Foil material is most suitable for steam and waterproofing for steam rooms. It is produced on a foam base or on kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of insulating a steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of insulating the steam room in a bathhouse proceeds from top to bottom. That is, work starts from the ceiling, then the walls and, lastly, the floor. It would not be superfluous to remind you that before starting insulation work, wooden surfaces should be cleaned of dust and signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a fire retardant, since it is possible to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside efficiently and effectively only with a well-prepared base.

Ceiling insulation

It is most convenient to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. Ideally, do this on both sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially a bathhouse. It is through this structure that the largest share of heat loss from the inside occurs. So, from above:

• a layer of rolled vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, tightly closing all joints and making an overlap on the pediment and rafter elements;
• pour a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite and level it;
• in places where the thermal insulation comes into contact with the chimney, they are treated with fire-retardant mastics.

Insulation of a steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling occurs as follows. If the ceiling structure below has smooth surface, then a frame is built on it. If there are ribs, there is no such need. The first layer of the thermal insulation cake is a vapor barrier membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then stone wool slabs are laid as tightly as possible between the beams and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of insulating the steam room, its upper part, is the installation of a protective layer of foil material. The joints between individual sheets are sealed with aluminum foil tape. Particular attention must be paid to the junctions between the ceiling and the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of “cold bridges”. If necessary, use polyurethane foam.

Baths are built not only from wood; there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings the process of execution thermal insulation works looks a little different. Insulation of the steam room brick bath begins at the stage of constructing the roof structure. Supporting ceiling beams, which are to be embedded in brick walls, are wrapped in two to three layers of glassine or roofing material before laying. The nests for them are made slightly wider than the beams themselves, and the free space is filled with polyurethane foam or mortar. From the outside, the recesses are covered with masonry. Next, the ceiling structure is installed, and insulation is performed in the same way as in a log house.

Thermal insulation of walls

Insulation of the wall surfaces of a brick bath begins with the application of a waterproofing layer to them. Most often, roll materials or mastics that do not contain bitumen are used. Because the specific smell of this material, when heated, can penetrate the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of producing thermal insulation work for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is carried out in the following order:

• Vertical bars are placed on the walls in increments equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• using a construction stapler, attach a vapor barrier membrane, carefully wrapping it around each beam;
• between the bars, heat-insulating material is tightly laid in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the slabs; stone wool is a little springy, so it holds well on its own and does not require additional fastening;
• The top vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper; you can use foil material on a foam base, but the first option works more reliably in humid conditions.

The foil is secured end-to-end, and the seams are covered with a special adhesive-based protective tape. All work must be carried out carefully and responsibly, but special care is required when sealing corners and places where walls meet the ceiling surface.

Floor insulation

Making warm floors in the steam room is no less important than properly insulating the walls and ceiling. You can use two options: using slab materials or bulk materials. However, in both cases, you need to start with leveling the surface and a rough preparation device. And here, too, there can be two versions: with and without drain. By and large, water is not used in the steam room, so there is no need to install a drain hole there. But some developers do this. Then, when arranging the floor pie, starting from the preparatory layer, slopes are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor must be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor structure itself:

1. Insulation with polystyrene foam boards. After rough preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid with a slight overlap on the walls. Then the insulation boards are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step is laying the reinforcing mesh and then screeding it with cement-sand mortar.
2. For insulation bulk materials expanded clay or perlite is used. First, waterproofing must be done. Then pour a layer of dry insulation required thickness, level it using the plaster rule according to the level. The covering layer is made with a concrete mixture or mortar.

The clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware. Traditional wood flooring is often used. The decking board behaves well. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, since the board has a corrugated surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling cladding in the steam room

For cladding walls and ceilings in a steam room, they are usually used. wooden lining. Each owner chooses and arranges the design of the steam room of the bathhouse according to his own taste. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, this is the type of wood from which the lining is made. Linden, aspen, and larch are considered the most suitable. It is undesirable to use breeds containing a large number of resin At high temperatures they emit fumes with a heavy odor. The next requirement is that the lining must not have knots, cracks or other defects. That is, high-quality material is best suited for lining a steam room.

The principle of covering walls and ceilings is traditional. A sheathing is made using aluminum foil with the beams positioned for the planned layout of the lining. Then the planks are attached to the frame, connecting them with tongue-and-groove locks.

Insulating a steam room from the inside - step-by-step instructions

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bathhouse must select the correct thermal insulation material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must demonstrate high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient should not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And this is only for flooring. And for insulating walls and ceilings, it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W/(m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially the flooring material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not work.

Thirdly, the open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for walls and attic floors. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved through external finishing.

Fourthly, insulating a steam room requires constant contact of the material with an area of ​​high temperatures. Some amateurs manage to heat the room up to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 °C is considered a normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even after a long, many-hour stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. Selection harmful substances and provoking allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bathhouse for health, not for new illnesses.

Eventually, the best option Insulation for the field should be considered granulated expanded clay. It is not afraid of mechanical stress or moisture. It is better to use regular or foil-clad mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a layer of finishing will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical stress.

Polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for insulating a steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can begin to directly insulate the steam room from the inside, having first studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate a floor - layer by layer overview

To do this, we will have to form a multilayer structure in the direction from the ground, consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a plastic film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists of adding a layer of sand, at least 15 centimeters thick.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to double the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the bathhouse frame.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20-centimeter cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using sand-cement mortar with filler. Optimal thickness screeds - from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future baseboard, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing skirt made of foil, which protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For finishing For a heat-resistant floor, tiles or boards laid on a lath are used.

Insulating the ceiling - step-by-step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, you need a completely different heat insulator - foil-clad mineral wool. It can withstand heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily withstand the usual temperature in this steam room zone, which does not rise above 160-180 °C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer, which protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is to lay sheathing boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The pitch of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foiled mineral wool

The third step is laying insulation. After completing the assembly of the sheathing, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid with foil outward (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully taped with foil tape. After completion of the work, there should be no gaps left on the ceiling.

The final step is installation on top of the sheathing finishing board(lining) or plywood panels. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options made of pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bathhouse is made from hard deciduous trees.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

Installing vertical thermal insulation on the walls of a bathhouse does not require the use of expensive foil-coated mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and shield from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We saturate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill the walls with boards 3-4 centimeters thick and 2-3 cm wider than the depth of the insulation. The spacing of the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be soaked with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the sheathing, rolling it out in horizontal stripes from bottom to top. In this case, the upper strip should overlap the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). It’s better to use staples (from a stapler) as fasteners. Moreover, it is better to seal the joints with foil tape.
• We stuff 2 centimeter thick planks onto the boards, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. This will create a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we install hardwood paneling.

Such a scheme allows you to collect very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical influences by clapboard finishing. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Insulating a steam room from the inside step-by-step video instructions

Insulating a steam room from the inside step-by-step video instructions Insulating a steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bathhouse will be reduced to zero. Thermal insulation

Insulating a steam room from the inside yourself

The bathhouse helps us relax not only with our bodies, but also with our souls.

Therefore, it is important that the finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also delight in an attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is preparing the work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base to see if there is any fungus and mold on it.

There should also be no foreign inclusions or protrusions.

To get rid of fungus, it is enough to use a regular antiseptic composition.

Without it, insulating the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials should not absorb moisture and must have reliable protection against mold.

And remain durable. Aluminum foil and basalt are not bad, modern solutions. The technology itself plays no less a role than the materials.

How to make insulation

During the work we will get a kind of “sandwich”. It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold formations. And prevents the activation of decay processes. This layer also protects the walls from the appearance of condensation on them. It forms when a surface is exposed to hot steam. Polyethylene film or foil are considered the best waterproofing materials. This is also required for insulating a steam room from the inside in a wooden bathhouse.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulating layer comes only after this. The paper base makes it so that even minimal amount harmful substances. The paper ensures that the minimum amount of hot air escapes. After this, a wooden frame with the same width as the insulating material itself is attached on top. Synthetic board or mineral wool often make excellent insulation materials.
• To protect thermal insulation from the effects of steam, a vapor barrier is needed. It also reflects thermal radiation. And it creates a kind of “thermos” effect. This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to a wooden sheathing. What are small nails or a stapler used for? The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam will definitely not penetrate inside the insulation.
• Internal lining. For which all surfaces are covered with clapboard. The frame is mounted on top of the heat-insulating layer. The lining itself, which is made from different breeds tree. The most important characteristic in this case is the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only about choosing between materials of artificial and natural origin. There are several other factors to consider.

This applies to purpose and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be classified into one of the following groups depending on their properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Backfills with different densities

Several groups are also distinguished according to their chemical composition:

• Which have a plastic base. This includes polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam.
• Technoblocks and technovets. This is a group of technical insulation materials.
• Inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• Organic. These include wood concrete and fibrolite, aqua wool.

Each variety has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, for insulating steam rooms from the inside, plastic insulation materials are not very suitable.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist open fire. But they can be used to insulate other rooms included in the bathhouse.

In turn, organic bases benefit from environmental safety. Their cost always remains affordable. But, if you do not use special processing compounds, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more versatile and practical. This is why mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• Aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Glassine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing felt will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, emit chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine is generally used to insulate baths. But best of all, it has proven itself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminum foil, mineral wool and log house.

There are several schemes by which insulation is carried out. But one of them has become the most widespread. For example, when using lining with fiber insulation.

• It all starts with creating a frame on the working wall surface. We take timber battens, horizontal and vertical, and fix them on the wall. The timber should be thicker than the insulation, but only by 20-30 millimeters. This reserve is necessary to predict possible shifts.
• After this, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap the materials. For places with joints and their sealing, thin slats are used. A distance of approximately 3 centimeters should remain between the mineral wool and the vapor barrier.
• The lining is pressed onto the surface of the vertical sheathing. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance remaining, which will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such work has proven its effectiveness. But they require certain costs, both in time and in effort.

There are now materials on the market that greatly simplify the entire process. Moreover, they combine the functions of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One such option is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation; there are no problems with its installation. As you can see, insulating a steam room from the inside is not a very complicated technology.

The scheme described above is well suited for installing timber buildings. Panel and frame structures have their own requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable assistants when working with panel walls:

Treatment of the heat insulator with lime milk acts as an additional requirement. In the future, you will need to dry the base properly. Due to this, fire resistance increases, rotting will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are used in difficult conditions from a climate point of view, then the walls can be covered with fiberboard, or their equivalent - reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and particle board compounds will be relevant.

Work order for ceilings

Ceilings suffer the most from exposure to temperatures that are often 160 degrees. The insulation process itself and its features depend on the design of the ceiling itself.

The work will look like this if there is an attic or ceiling.

• We coat the ceiling boards with clay. Its layer should have a thickness of about 20 mm.
• Clay is needed to effectively retain moisture.
• Wooden chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Other materials can also be used for thermal insulation. The main thing is that their thickness is at least 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where there is no attic looks somewhat different. First, a vapor barrier material is laid there. Sheathing and insulation layer come next, followed by ceiling boards and beams.

Depending on the materials used and design features, the order of work will always vary.

Places where insulation and pipes are connected to each other. Between them it is necessary to make an indent of approximately 200 millimeters so as not to violate fire safety requirements. To do this from rafter legs a special box is constructed.

It will be the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when insulating a bathhouse is to ensure that there are no places through which warm air could leave the room. It is also necessary to do everything possible to prevent the formation of condensation.

About floor insulation

You can use two solutions to insulate the floor in a steam room.

Polystyrene has an important advantage in the form of a cellular structure. Thanks to this, moisture will never penetrate inside the material. Thermal insulation properties are retained high level, even if the surface experiences severe mechanical stress.

Insulating the steam room from the inside

But this material is most often used in baths that are built of brick.

He demands additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before using such a material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. You can't do without thorough drying.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, on top, the polystyrene foam boards themselves are installed.

Here it is important to ensure that there are no places left without treatment. Gaps and cracks can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, so they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tiles are one of the best solutions today.

But it is also possible to create a collapsible wooden floor. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bathhouse. And walking on such a surface is very pleasant. With a removable structure, you can dry the boards without any problems, which extends the overall service life.

About ventilation in the bathhouse

It is impossible not to consider this issue when touching on the topic of insulation.

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on this part of the system in the bathhouse. Ventilation should not just provide air flow into the room. It is important that it does not let the cold in, but retains heat.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust channels. An inlet opening is located near the stove, slightly above floor level.

Concerning exhaust duct, then it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special valves provide air flow regulation. One more condition must be met for the system to work properly - that the supply opening be half the size of the exhaust opening.

The operation is regulated by valves. If you manage them correctly, you can achieve the desired results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room and the air will be fresh. Intensive forced ventilation is organized by opening two valves at once.

About floor waterproofing

The base and its materials determine which insulation method is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

Concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those who have a steam room. It is suitable for washrooms where the floor is completely filled with concrete. The order of work will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the slightest dimples and tubercles are unacceptable.
• After this they proceed to applying bitumen mastic. You have to wait until it dries.
• Polyethylene film and roofing felt are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to laying ceramic tiles.

There is a second method. Its implementation is more complicated. But the result justifies all the costs; such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise you with its high quality. There are several steps you need to take.

• A plywood sheet is fixed to the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrosol is laid on top of plywood. This is a material whose edges extend behind the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• Places of seams and joints that remain untreated are sealed with a regular construction hairdryer.
• Next comes laying the reinforced mesh and laying the concrete mortar.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

To prevent all walls from getting dirty, the lining is covered with tape. You also need to look at the age of the log house for the bathhouse. Buildings usually last for at least two years before complete shrinkage. Otherwise, the floor surface will be deformed.

Insulating a wooden floor

This insulation method is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. It features the simplest step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral wool mat with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is fixed under the joists.
• Roofing felt or euroroofing felt is fixed on top of the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And it will protect materials from spontaneous combustion and eating by insects.
• The subfloor must be laid on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using clapboard.
• Only the decorative cladding will remain.

Door insulation with mineral wool

Insulating a bathhouse is a process that takes place somewhat differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which remain constant here.

But solving the problem is not difficult if you follow simple rules.

Seals must be laid on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inside.

There will be less chance that excessive moisture and condensation will appear in the bathhouse.

Drying of the insulation is ensured only by ventilation gaps, so it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperatures, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials that are too easily deformed for insulation in this part of the room.

Or those varieties that emit harmful chemical substances when they are exposed to high temperatures. Condensation collects on plastic without any problems.

Doors and thresholds in a room also affect thermal insulation performance. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity of the steam room. There is always a solution - it is enough to install low doors that have a large threshold.

• Insulating a steam room from the inside yourself

  
  The bathhouse helps us relax not only with our bodies, but also with our souls. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also

Insulating a bathhouse - what you need for work

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands will save money on work and heating. There is no shame in inviting friends to a comfortable bathhouse that exudes warmth and coziness. High-quality thermal insulation, competently made from good materials, can maintain a unique microclimate. The work is labor-intensive, but anyone with the necessary knowledge and skillful hands can handle it.

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside differs from thermal insulation work in ordinary premises due to the conditions in which the materials are exposed. First of all, this is humidity, especially in the steam room and washing room, and in other rooms the air is not dry. Therefore, the insulation either should not absorb moisture, or it must be reliably protected from steam and moisture. In the steam room, the temperature can even rise above 100°. Materials such as polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are deformed at high temperatures and release substances harmful to health. For the same reason, plastic or linoleum is never used in the bathhouse. Some of the heat is lost as infrared radiation, so a foil layer is needed to reflect the rays.

To insulate a bathhouse, you will definitely need a foil heat-resistant hydro-vapor barrier.

In addition to the heat insulator, other materials will be required, in particular, sheathing. For stone brick baths It is better to use a profile for drywall. The ceiling profile CD is usually used, the UD guide is used for edging around the perimeter. The hangers are attached on average every 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles is slightly less than the width of the insulation. In a wooden bathhouse, instead of a plasterboard profile, it is advisable to use bars; they are cheaper and will last as long as the walls.

You will need a foil heat-resistant water vapor barrier. for example, penotherm. It is able to protect walls from dampness, reflect infrared rays, and additionally insulate the room due to the presence of foam material. For wooden baths it can be used as the main material for insulation. On top of the insulating layer they arrange finishing from the lining. The best material Linden or aspen are considered, they are durable even in such difficult conditions, and they do not burn.

How to insulate - a review of artificial and natural materials

When choosing a material for insulation, you should be guided by quality characteristics. A good insulation should provide reliable vapor and waterproofing, be environmentally friendly, and not fire hazardous. There are many materials for insulation - artificial and traditional from natural raw materials. If you are a fan of absolute environmental friendliness, then, of course, choose natural material. But you should know that without pre-treatment, such material is seriously threatened by mold, rodents, and insects. Artificial materials have better qualities and are easier to work with.

Natural materials for insulation, such as moss, flax tow, and hemp, have been used since ancient times. They are cheap or completely free, highly environmentally friendly, and fill the bathhouse with a special natural aroma. But they are short-lived, require constant updating, and working with them is difficult and time-consuming. Of the natural materials, perhaps expanded clay is the only one that is easy to work with and durable. It is moisture resistant, lightweight, and durable. Thanks to these qualities, expanded clay is used for floor insulation in bathhouses.

Synthetic materials for insulating a bathhouse from the inside include extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool and glass wool. Each material has unique properties:

1. 1. Expanded polystyrene is a reliable heat insulator of low cost and light weight. It is fire hazardous and cannot withstand high temperatures, so it is used only in the dressing room and other similar rooms, except for the washroom and steam room.
2. 2. Mineral wool is a durable, fireproof, non-hygroscopic material. Available in the form of sheets or mats, which are convenient to work with. It is easy to damage, so you should work with mineral wool carefully.
3. 3. Glass wool is made from interwoven extremely fine glass fibers. The material contains a lot of air, due to which it has a heat-saving effect. Available in rolls or slabs.
4. 4. Basalt fiber is expensive, but it can be an ideal material for insulating a bathhouse. The basis is molten rocks, so the insulation does not burn, is not afraid of mechanical deformation and moisture, and retains heat well. It is convenient to work with it, cutting it into pieces of the required size.

The choice is influenced by the material of the walls. If the bathhouse is made of brick, stone, concrete and similar materials, it is necessary to insulate it. This is necessary to retain heat and extend the life of the building, because the walls will begin to collapse due to high humidity and very large temperature fluctuations. A wooden bathhouse itself is warm, but the insulation layer will not make it any worse. It is recommended to insulate log bathhouses with a wall thickness of less than 20 cm if the timber is less than 15 cm thick. If the log walls are thicker, thermal insulation for the bathhouse is not needed, or a waterproofing layer is used, which is then covered with clapboard.

To prevent your feet from freezing - warm floor without heating

You will have to insulate the floor from the inside if this operation was previously skipped. The base of an uninsulated floor can be concrete or wood. For concrete floors, polystyrene foam or expanded clay is suitable as insulation. Expanded polystyrene is better extruded - more dense than polystyrene foam, capable of withstanding greater loads. There is no need to worry about a threat to health - waterproofing and screed will protect against harmful emissions.

We carry out waterproofing with rolled bitumen material, dense polyethylene or mastic. They should cover the base and walls to a thickness equal to the insulating layer with screed. We fill expanded clay or lay EPS slabs on top of the waterproofing. We seal the gaps between the sheets using scraps of polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, and simply level the expanded clay. We lay another membrane on top, sealing the joints with tape, creating a bag that does not allow moisture to pass through.

The insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing

For waterproofing we fill in a reinforced screed. If we use expanded clay, the thermal insulation of the floor will improve. Finishing can be placed on top of the cured floor.

We insulate the wooden floor in a similar way. We treat the wood with antiseptics, and use mineral wool or glass wool as insulation. We lay waterproofing, joists on it, and a tight insulator between them. Cover the top with two layers of bitumen-impregnated material. We glue the waterproofing membrane with tape, and lay a plank floor on top. As an option, we use plywood, on top of which we make a screed.

If a cold floor made of boards can be disassembled, then it is better to insulate it from the base. We select the soil shallowly, take it out, and compact the foundation. We fill it with a 10–15 cm layer of sand and crushed stone, compact it and lay waterproofing material. We fill the membrane with expanded clay or lay other material. We prepare a solution of cement and sand 1:1, fill in the rough screed. After it sets, we make a finishing reinforced screed.

Warm walls and ceiling – complete comfort for vacationers

We begin insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the inside by preparing the surface - sealing, insulating cracks, treating wooden surfaces with solutions against mold, fungi, and fire. The insulation cake has the following structure:

1. 1. We attach bars or a profile for drywall to the wall;
2. 2. We lay a heat insulator between them;
3. 3. We apply a water vapor barrier layer on it;
4. 4. Wooden sheathing on top;
5. 5. Finishing completes everything.

Before installing the sheathing, be sure to measure the width of the insulating material. The dimensions indicated do not always correspond to the actual ones; in addition, the edges may have been slightly deformed during transportation. We install the sheathing in increments slightly smaller than the width of the material so that it fits between the sheathing with little effort. In places where the heat insulator does not fit tightly, where gaps remain, cold penetrates and condensation forms. The height of the sheathing must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Bars are attached to the wall, between which a heat insulator is laid

We lay insulation tightly between the bars, avoiding gaps. If the distance is chosen correctly, the heat insulator is held on the wall without additional fastening, but for security, you can use stainless or hot-dip galvanized screws with washers. We seal the foil heat insulator at the joints with aluminum tape for tightness. We also seal the contact points between the insulation and the sheathing, covering at least 5 cm of the insulation and timber. Sealing the joints is very important; moisture penetrating into the insulating layer greatly increases its thermal conductivity.

The insulation of a bathhouse from the inside is not limited to the thermal insulation layer. We protect it from moisture - in the steam room and washing compartment it is better to use a foil vapor barrier. which will also reflect heat. The room will heat up faster, heating costs will be reduced, and the stove will last longer. For other rooms, you can use a different material. We lay the strips, overlapping each other by 5 cm, and fasten them with staples using a stapler. We cover the joints and places where staples are driven in with foil tape. We do not leave a gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer.

We attach a sheathing of 20 mm thick wooden planks to the bars for installing the lining. The thickness is selected to ensure a gap between the sheathing and the vapor barrier. We fasten the lathing vertically so that condensation can drain between the vapor barrier layer and the lining, then it will last longer.

To ensure condensation drainage, we attach the lathing on the walls horizontally, under the lining - vertically, the finishing layer will be horizontal.

Insulating the ceiling is no different from insulating the walls, except that we start working on the ceiling earlier than on the walls. You should keep in mind some features of ceiling insulation. Since most of the heat collects at the top, we make the thermal insulation layer thicker than on the walls. We provide a small overlap of insulating layers on the walls. When insulating walls, we apply it to the wall material and glue the joints with foil tape.

Windows and doors – have you forgotten about them?

A significant amount of heat also escapes through leaky windows and doors. We make the door for the steam room small, with the minimum acceptable dimensions. We raise the threshold above the floor level by 25 cm to block the path of cold air from the adjacent room. We make the door leaf from wood, and fit the boards tightly. Additionally, doors can be insulated like walls. door frame and seal the canvas so that there are no gaps.

We do not make large windows in the bathhouse, with the exception of the rest room. The frames must be double glazed so that the air inside serves as a heat insulator. We install the glass with a sealant, resulting in a double-glazed window that is impenetrable to cold air. The gaps between the opening and the frame are securely sealed with mineral wool, and a layer of waterproofing is applied on top.

We hope the article has dispelled the misconception that thermal insulation of a bathhouse is a simple matter. It turns out that it has its own specifics, primarily regarding the choice of materials and installation. Once again we pay attention to the reliable sealing of all layers. If you do the work carefully, following the advice, the bathhouse will bring true pleasure from being in it.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands?

Insulating the bathhouse from the inside is an important stage in the construction of this specific structure. First of all, special attention is paid to the ceiling and floor of the log bathhouse.

How to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside

Insulation of the bathhouse from the inside is also necessary because this building must maintain a constantly high temperature inside its walls for a long time.

Therefore, before insulating the bathhouse from the inside, you need to carefully study this issue and prevent heat loss from occurring.

1 Features of bath insulation

It is worth considering that the service life of a wooden bathhouse built with your own hands is rapidly reduced if significant heat losses occur.

If you don’t waterproof the walls and dressing room with your own hands, then there will always be an increased level of humidity inside; insulation for saunas and baths will help to avoid this.

This can lead to sad consequences, for example, the logs will slowly rot, which will lead to the appearance of unpleasant odors within the dressing room.

Currently, it is important to insulate the bathhouse, and especially the dressing room, using expanded clay concrete blocks or wooden beam, the thermal insulation of baths and saunas using these materials is quite effective.

Before this, you can consider correcting the brickwork if it has defects in some places. Particular attention is paid to the thermal insulation of the dressing room and walls; do not forget about insulating the steam room yourself.

The thermal insulation layer can be combined with the use of expanded clay concrete blocks. To ensure thermal insulation of the dressing room with your own hands in the room, before the floor is installed, the soil is excavated to a depth of 50 centimeters with an orientation towards the expected level of the finished floor.

A sand-cement mixture is poured on top of the foam, this is especially important if the bathhouse and dressing room walls are built from brick with your own hands.

To insulate brickwork, foam chips can be used, the thickness of which should be 50 millimeters.

The scheme, based on which insulation is carried out, allows the use of vermiculite, the thickness of which must correspond to the thickness of the brickwork.

1.1 Waterproofing a timber bath

On top of the mortar, which is used to fill the space between the brickwork with your own hands, a reinforcing mesh is secured, which is equipped with cells of 100x100 millimeters.

Wooden floors with holes made in them for water drainage are laid only after the cement mortar has completely hardened.

In most cases, the waterproofing layer is formed in the space that is located between the layer of mortar enriched with vermiculite and the concrete layer.

According to this principle, they can be carried out waterproofing works inside brick walls. The technology changes somewhat if the bathhouse is built using timber.

If the bathhouse is built from timber, then the use of expanded clay concrete blocks is permissible, while the material of the walls does not have much influence on the process. In this case, any insulation for the bath walls can be chosen.

Bathroom insulation in progress

After this, the upper part of the flooring can be equipped with electric heated floors to create the most comfortable conditions in a timber bathhouse.

A pipeline can be installed at the base of the structure to provide autonomous heating. If in a bathhouse made of timber there is no need to install a wooden floor, then the use of heated floors will be most relevant.

The most suitable material can be laid on top of the timber with which the floor can be covered. For example, it could be tiles that are laid on top of a concrete base. Removable wooden grates can be placed on top of the floor.

2 Insulation of steam room walls

Even if the bathhouse was insulated using expanded clay concrete blocks, after two or three years it can shrink by 100-200 millimeters.

This is especially likely if the main material for making the walls was wooden beams or logs. Here the main indicators directly depend on the degree of moisture resistance of the building material.

Currently, in addition to expanded clay concrete blocks, an alternative material such as eurolining can be used. When choosing insulation for a bathhouse, you can start with this material.

Eurolining is made from valuable tree species. The performance of expanded clay blocks here is inferior to the presented finishing material. Consider Rockwool Sauna Butts for baths as an alternative.

When covering with such material, a number of unforeseen difficulties may arise; this may be due to inaccurate adherence to the technology for installing the sheathing, onto which the lining is subsequently attached.

It is not recommended to nail the sheathing frame to the logs using ordinary nails and thus fasten the lining to the sheathing. Thermal insulation of a bathhouse with your own hands when implementing this method turns out to be very durable.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside - walls, floor, ceiling

This combination can greatly interfere with the natural shrinkage process. This will lead to cracks and chips in the structure of the material, which in turn will negatively affect the amount of heat in the bath. In addition, you can use other finishing methods based on:

• The use of grooves for fastening the sheathing;
• Using a layer of fiberglass;
• Application of aluminum foil;
• Using nails.

The grooves can reach a length of 15-20 centimeters and are sawed on the edges of those slats that are intended to form the sheathing.

A jigsaw can help with this, making cuts at a distance of 50 centimeters. Nails can also be hammered into the slots of the slats, which will lead to reliable fixation of the structure and stop the shrinkage of the bath.

2.1 How to properly insulate a ceiling?

Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling consists of several stages. First, a pre-prepared layer of fiberglass is placed on top of the rough ceiling layer.

This is feasible if you plan to create a completely wooden covering. After this, a layer of clay-sand is created, which must include sawdust from finely chopped straw. This solution is poured over the prepared fiberglass.

The thickness of the layer can reach 30 centimeters, then a clay-sand solution is poured, which can include vermiculite.

The thickness of pouring such a solution should be 50 millimeters. Depending on the weather conditions, the solution may dry within two to three weeks.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a bathhouse

After it has completely dried, a foam plate with a thickness of 100-150 millimeters is placed on top.

A final layer of cement-sand mortar is poured on top of the foam, which can be mixed with a certain amount foam chips.

If you plan to lay roofing felt or roofing felt on top of the heat-insulating layer, you can plan to build an attic space.

The sheathing slats are secured at a gap of 500 millimeters. This is carried out at the very bottom of the ceiling covering under the surface of the rough board.

2.2 Selecting thermal insulation material for the bath floor

Currently, they are especially popular following materials designed for insulating bath floors:

Materials such as expanded clay and slag are in most cases used to provide insulation for wooden floors.

Expanded clay has a fairly low cost, so its use is economically feasible. It is distinguished by a high degree of environmental friendliness and extremely successfully withstands mechanical loads and sudden temperature changes.

However, the thickness of the layer of such material should be 20 centimeters. The process of floor insulation with the participation of expanded clay and slag is quite labor-intensive.

Insulating bath walls from the inside yourself

For better results, different fractions of slag should be used in combination with expanded clay. Polystyrene foam also serves as an effective floor insulation. Insulation for saunas and baths Izover Sauna serves as a good alternative.

It is incredibly easy to use and quite affordable. To produce such insulating material, a foamed plastic mixture is used.

By the way, during laboratory research it turned out that the resulting convection currents cannot occur in the same foam cell.

It is important to know that any type of foam plastic is not suitable for creating a thermal insulation layer. So, for example, under the influence of evaporation from layers of some paint and varnish materials the structure of expanded polystyrene can undergo rapid destruction.

For wooden floors, so-called wood wool can be used quite often. It is capable of creating a thermal insulation layer not only on a wooden surface, but also on concrete.

For this purpose, special mats can be used. This material is capable of providing effective insulation, and its installation does not require the use of additional equipment or complex manipulations.

Ordinary ceramic tiles can also serve not only as a finishing material, but also as a good means for floor insulation. This product can only be used in bathhouses that are equipped with concrete floors.

How and with what to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands?

Why is insulating a bathhouse from the inside a good idea?

Speaking about the bathhouse, it should be noted that a unique microclimate prevails in it. When arranging this structure, an important point is creating high-quality thermal insulation. Having decided to insulate the walls and ceiling of a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to be prepared for the fact that doing this work will require a lot of effort. However, with a lot of desire and time, you can cope with this task without any problems.

When performing thermal insulation of a steam room, the following factors must be taken into account:

• material that is used to insulate the bathhouse from the inside;
• knowledge and skills of the owner, personal desire.

When choosing a material for insulating a bath, you need to focus on the characteristics of the insulation. It is worth knowing that not all materials are suitable for insulating a bath.

Suitable insulation materials for this structure are those that have the following properties:

The entire variety of insulation materials currently offered on the market can be divided into two types:

If you want your bathhouse to be insulated with environmentally friendly materials, then when choosing, you should pay attention to natural insulation materials. They are made based on organic components. These include:

These materials have many advantages, but they also have certain disadvantages. If you do not treat them with special compounds, then during the operation of the bathhouse, mold and insects will appear on such insulation.

In order for the insulation of a bathhouse from the inside to become a simple process, it is necessary to use materials of artificial origin when carrying out work. They have many important advantages. They are resistant to fire, not subject to rotting, and provide effective vapor barrier. The installation of such materials does not require much time. In this they are superior to natural insulation materials.

Materials for insulating a bath from the inside

When purchasing thermal insulation material, it is necessary to make a choice not only in favor of natural or artificial insulation. At the stage of purchasing material, a number of other factors need to be taken into account:

Classification of insulation

If we focus on such a factor as mechanical properties of the material. then all materials that can be used to insulate the walls of a bathhouse inside can be divided into the following types:

• backfills of various densities;
• mats and fibers;
• wall blocks and slabs.

According to such a parameter as chemical composition of the material. All insulation materials are divided into the following types:

• organic. These include ecowool, fiberboard;
• inorganic substances. The group of these materials includes mineral wool, glass wool made from basalt fiber;
• technical insulation materials. These include the technoblock and technoscience;
• insulation materials made on the basis of plastics. These include polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam.

Each of the listed materials has its own pros and cons. For example, when insulating a steam room, it is better to refuse to use plastic-based heat-insulating materials. This is due to the fact that such insulation materials are exposed to high temperatures. highly flammable. However, they can be used for thermal insulation of other rooms in the bathhouse. They are perfect for insulating a dressing room or rest room.

Materials based on organic substances are distinguished by their environmental friendliness and affordable price. However, they are also highly flammable if they are not treated with special compounds.

Materials for vapor barrier from the inside

There is a whole group of materials that are suitable for vapor barrier of a bath.

When working on vapor barrier in a steam room, you should stop using roofing felt and glassine. This is due to the fact that when exposed to high temperatures, these materials begin to release chemicals. When insulating baths, glassine is often used. Aluminum foil is often used in conjunction with lining, and mineral wool is widely used in log bathhouses.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands?

Quite common nowadays is the insulation scheme using fiber-based heat insulators. The technology for insulating a bathhouse from the inside involves performing the following work.

First you need to create a frame on the surface of the insulated wall. To do this, it runs fastening the sheathing from beams. which are placed horizontally and vertically. Note that the thickness of the timber should exceed the insulation by 20-30 mm.

Next, the wall is covered with mineral wool. When the material is installed, a vapor barrier layer is applied. Most often, foil material is used to create it. Note that its overlay must be overlapped. The joints of the material must be sealed with thin slats. A distance of about 3 cm should remain between the layers of vapor barrier and mineral wool.

The effectiveness of this method is quite high, since it has been used to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside for quite a long time. However, you should know that if you choose this thermal insulation option, you will have to spend a lot of effort on creating a high-quality insulation design. Modern materials offered on the market will reduce the labor intensity of such insulation. Often, insulation materials combine several properties at once: they provide effective insulation and waterproofing. Foil penotherm is just such a material. It is characterized by high resistance to fire. In addition, it provides convenience during operation and installation.

The scheme described above is ideal for baths built from timber. Insulation of frame walls and panel-type buildings has its own characteristics. If the bathhouse has panel walls, then the choice is made in favor of lightweight materials. The most commonly used materials are polystyrene foam, reed boards, and mineral wool. Treatment of the heat insulator in this case is a mandatory requirement. As a composition to protect it from harmful negative factors, it is used lime milk followed by drying. The use of such protection will prevent the occurrence of rotting processes. In addition, the material’s resistance to fire will increase.

If the bathhouse has frame walls, then in cold climates, fiberboard or reed slabs are used to insulate it. In areas with a mild climate, the choice is made in favor of gypsum and sawdust. To insulate walls, for example, a mixture of sawdust and gypsum can be used. The material is taken in a ratio of 1:10. The finished mixture is poured between the walls and the sheathing in a layer of 200 mm.

Insulation of the ceiling in a steam bath room

The work on creating thermal protection in the bathhouse is completed by insulating the ceiling. The complexity and order of work depends on the design of the ceiling itself. It can be with or without an attic.

If the bathhouse has an attic or attic, the insulation process should proceed as follows: board coated with clay with a layer of 20 cm. This material does a good job of retaining moisture. Wooden chips must be poured into the cracks between the boards. If they are not available, then you can use any other material that provides good thermal insulation. For example, you can backfill with expanded clay. But the thickness of the layer of this material must be at least 200 mm.

Insulating a bathhouse without an attic

A bathhouse without an attic, made of logs or a panel building, must be insulated inside in a completely different way:

First, the vapor barrier material is laid, then the insulation is attached, onto which the beam beam is sewn. After shelf boards are nailed .

When insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse, special attention must be paid to the junction of the pipe and the insulation. To ensure that fire safety standards are not violated, it is necessary to make an indent of 200 mm between the pipe and the heat-insulating material. This problem is easily solved by creating a box from rafter legs. It will be a barrier separating the pipe and the insulation. The space inside the box can be filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, stone wool.

It is optimal if the roof of the bathhouse is designed in such a way that there are no places through which people can escape from the room. warm air, and the outside gets cold. Ceiling insulation has another goal - avoid condensation formation. Condensation is converted into moisture, which, in turn, is the main enemy for most building materials.

Please note that not all materials are suitable for ceiling insulation work. It is worth refusing to use materials such as chipboard, plywood, and fiberboard for thermal insulation. They can not only become deformed during operation, but also release substances harmful to human health when exposed to high temperatures.

Conclusion

Thermal insulation of a bathhouse from the inside is an important work that should be carried out by every owner of this building who wants to visit the bathhouse and not face discomfort. Although this work is not easy, everyone can do it. If you have the time and the necessary knowledge on how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside, then by choosing the right materials and following the advice of experienced craftsmen, you can create high-quality thermal protection. After the insulation has been completed, you will enjoy every visit to the bathhouse. There will be no cold in the building, it will warm up quickly, and fuel costs will be minimal.

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands

It happens that you go into the bathhouse with the desire to relax, not only to wash yourself, but also to free yourself from the burden of problems and worries, but in the end either the temperature does not hold at all, or it is impossible to steam, or, on the contrary, the heat is unbearable and you practically can’t breathe. In this case, naturally, there can be no talk of any pleasure; visiting the bathhouse turns into a complete hassle. The main reason for the uncomfortable microclimate in the bathhouse is considered to be improper thermal insulation. It is she who is responsible for maintaining a certain temperature in the premises, as well as for saving the fuel necessary to heat the bath.

Popular Misconceptions

Most people do not pay due attention to thermal insulation, believing that it is enough to simply cover the walls with insulating material. In fact, insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands is a rather complex process that requires taking into account many factors.

Sometimes an excessive desire for naturalness and naturalness plays a bad role. In pursuit of environmental cleanliness, the owner of the bathhouse decides to insulate it with moss. Indeed, this is a product of natural origin, but when used in rooms with high humidity it quickly rots, not only emitting unpleasant odors, but also quickly infecting the tree with rot.

Materials for thermal insulation of baths

If we have already started talking about the fact that some heat insulators are not suitable for a bathhouse, we cannot help but talk about what can be used, and what are the pros and cons of other materials.

1. Mineral insulation materials (basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool) are ideal for insulating a bathhouse. As a rule, they are produced in the form of slabs or mats. Such materials have very high durability, they are moisture-proof and fire-resistant, and are absolutely not subject to rotting. Most often, insulation of a bathhouse from the inside is carried out using them.
2. Organic materials (arbolite, fiberboard and others) are made from peat, reeds or wood waste. Usually these are the slabs different sizes, which can be used even in climates with very low temperatures. Unfortunately, despite its high thermal insulation properties and its low cost, such insulation is not recommended for use in bathhouses, as it quickly ignites. True, there are now many substances on the market, after treatment with which fiberboard, reeds, and other organic heat insulators become fireproof, but it’s still better not to take risks and not to insulate at least the walls of steam rooms with them.
3. Plastic-based materials (foam plastic, expanded polystyrene) are well suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but they are not recommended for use in steam rooms, again due to their high flammability.

Well, in conclusion, a few words about vapor barrier materials, which will also definitely be needed when insulating a bathhouse. The most commonly used for this purpose are roofing felt and glassine used for interior spaces Baths are not worth it, since when heated, these materials release toxic substances, which in high humidity conditions very quickly enter the human body through the lungs. It is best to use aluminum foil or directly heat-insulating boards with a foil coating. The use of foil greatly reduces energy costs to maintain a comfortable temperature in the bathhouse due to its shiny surface, which perfectly reflects heat back into the room.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside

The insulation of a brick bathhouse from the inside is almost no different from the insulation of timber or log buildings, so in the framework of this article we will not separate them. To facilitate understanding, we will describe the insulation of a bathhouse from the inside with photos that will allow you to understand certain details of the process.

Bathroom floor insulation

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside, the work scheme, considered traditional, recommends starting from the floor. This will not only reduce the degree of displacement of warm air by cold air rising from below, but will also add comfort. Agree, it is much more pleasant to walk on a warm floor, especially in a hot steam room.

Bathhouses usually have one of two types of floors: solid and leaking. The designs are completely different, so it is not surprising that each type of insulation has its own characteristics.

1. When installing solid floors, insulation (most often mineral wool) is laid on a rough plank floor and covered with a waterproofing layer so that its edges are on the walls. After this, you can begin installing the finished floor.
2. When constructing leaking floors, it is necessary to dig a pit to a depth of approximately 500 mm. Next, it is filled with 50 mm of sand, which must be thoroughly compacted. Foam plastic slabs 200 mm high are laid on this layer as insulation. They, in turn, are filled with a layer of cement with the addition of foam chips 1:1 - 50 mm. Waterproofing is spread over the concrete, overlapping the walls. In this case, you can use roofing felt. While on the floor, this material does not heat up to a temperature at which it releases toxic substances. The next layer is again a layer of cement, but with the addition of vermiculite in the same ratio of 1:1 - 50 mm. After spreading the reinforcing mesh, the floors are filled with concrete with the addition of small crushed stone to a height of 50 mm, and at this stage a slope towards the drain is ensured. Now you can lay the finished floors on the posts.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

It is best to insulate both of these building elements at the same time, since the technology for laying thermal insulation from the inside is practically the same for them.

So, let's look at insulation using a steam room as an example. First, you need to apply a 50x50 lumber sheathing to the walls and ceiling, and the distance between the bars should be slightly less than the width of the insulation. This is done so that, having straightened out in the resulting niches, the material takes its place more tightly, without the formation of “cold bridges”. Basalt or mineral fiber slabs are best suited for this purpose.

After laying the heat insulator, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material. In principle, you can use any, but for baths, foil fabric or any other vapor barrier trimmed with foil is best suited. Reflecting off mirror surface, warm air will return to the room. Now you can begin the interior lining.

Tip: It is imperative to lay foil vapor barrier materials with the reflective side facing the inside of the bathhouse.

Important: The vapor barrier is not located between the beams, but is attached directly to them.

In the remaining rooms of the bathhouse, internal insulation is carried out in the same way. The only difference is that you can use thermal insulation materials with weaker characteristics, and also use thick kraft wrapping paper instead of foil.

Advice: Since brick or cinder block baths have high heat loss, the thickness of the basalt fiber when insulating them should be increased.

All larger number craftsmen prefer foil penotherm. This insulation is immediately covered with metallized lavsan or foil and at the same time acts as a vapor barrier.

The video below will provide complete and comprehensive information on how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside.

Scheme of the “pie” for insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the inside

Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all defects: seal and insulate the cracks, treat the walls with fire retardants and antiseptics, if you think necessary, check the tightness of the connections, etc. After finishing preparatory work You can begin installing thermal insulation.

The pie itself general case looks like that:

• a wall on which bars are packed;
• heat insulator laid between the bars;
• vapor barrier;
• a lathing made of planks that holds materials and serves for installation of finishing.

Bathroom wall insulation scheme

Step 1. A sheathing of bars is attached to the walls into which the heat insulator is tightly inserted. The thickness of the bars must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation. A vapor barrier is attached to the bars, which is usually aluminum foil. After the foil, a 20-3 ohm thick lathing is attached under the clapboard, and then the walls are sheathed with clapboard.

1. There is no need to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bathhouse;
2. It is advisable to leave a gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the lining so that condensate can flow down freely. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.

We tightly lay the heat insulator between the bars. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars

You also need to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. Moreover, there are constantly debates about how to do this better. Some builders claim that with a horizontal arrangement of the heat insulator, and therefore the bars, there is less heat loss. Their opponents say that when vertical arrangement better ventilation. What’s more important is that everyone chooses for themselves, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fasten the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be fastened: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, condensation, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to flow down without hindrance, so the sheathing under the lining will be attached vertically.

The pitch of filling the bars under the insulation is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be approximately 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case the insulation will fit tightly to the bars).

Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap or loose heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.

Step 2. Insulation is placed tightly between the padded bars, without gaps, with little effort. With the correct distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds well on its own, but to be sure, you can secure it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel screws and washers of large diameter.

If the heat insulator you choose is foil, to ensure tightness, cover each connection with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to secure another piece of foil with an adhesive backing - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much greater than dry one. For this reason, the insulation should not be allowed to get wet.

In this case, you also need to carefully approach the sealing of the joints of the foil thermal insulation and the bars: they need to be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that there is at least 5 cm of overlap on both the insulation and the bars.

The joints must be taped with aluminum tape.

For a steam room, the best material to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation is foil. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing heat loss. If you choose such a material, the time required to heat the room will be significantly reduced, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will be reduced, the stove will operate in a more gentle mode, and therefore will last longer.

In other rooms, you can install any other material that is suitable for its performance characteristics.

The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued using foil tape, which is sold in the same place where vapor barriers are sold. Attach it to the bars using staples and a construction stapler. To maintain tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to seal the joints with the same foil tape.

When insulating the ceiling, there should be an “entry” of the heat and vapor barrier onto the walls. When installing wall insulation, run it over the top of the wall “pie”, and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).

Step 3. After the installation of the “pie” is completed, a sheathing of planks is stuffed onto the protruding bars. It will hold the materials and also serve as the basis for attaching the interior decoration.

This is what the wall may look like after all the work is completed: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining

Features of insulating walls made of different materials

The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains virtually unchanged for different rooms and types of buildings. Only some parameters can be changed. For example, for the steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended to be twice as thick as for other rooms. This is where it is very important to keep warm maximum amount time.

The thickness of the insulation also differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bathhouse itself retains heat well, and when decorating all rooms except the steam room, you can do without insulation at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.

Insulating the walls of a brick bath from the inside There is practically no difference, except for the fastening methods: it is more difficult to drive nails into a brick wall; you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden blocks, but when purchasing them, pay attention to the fact that they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And the choice of sizes is much more difficult here: there are not many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation of brick walls of a bathhouse from the inside requires a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a bathhouse made of logs: minimum – 10cm. but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, external insulation, region, etc.

Insulation of bathhouse walls made of foam blocks the composition of the “pie” is no different. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fastenings well, even special ones. It tolerates excessive loads no better. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It should become one of the decisive factors.

The foam block does not hold fastenings well

The sheathing must be fastened so that the main load falls on the floor and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.

Advice! To further reduce the load on foam concrete walls, you can not fasten the slats tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel that will only hold the slats in a vertical position. The entire load will fall on the floor.

Place the insulation tightly between the slats, and you can fix it so that it does not fall using thread and a stapler (shoot the thread against the slats). A vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the planks using staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and cover the staples with patches.

The last stage of insulating the walls of a bathhouse made of foam blocks is the installation of lathing for interior decoration. This is a similar frame made of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first one in several places to the bars.

This is only one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of a bathhouse made of foam blocks, but it is simple to implement and quite reliable.

Materials for bath insulation

Choosing a material for insulation is a rather complex process: you need to take into account not only the technical characteristics of insulation, but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, and fire safety. It is especially problematic to choose the right insulation for a steam room, since it not only has high humidity, but also high temperature, which causes the release of toxic substances from some types of insulation.

Classic mineral wool

Not so long ago, almost everyone advised using mineral wool to insulate a bath, but recent studies have shown that in production, a composition containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. They have a harmful effect on humans, they are a carcinogenic substance, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the release of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?

Even Rockwool or TechnoNIKOL basalt wool, or any other mineral wool from well-known or not manufacturers, emits phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to doctors and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: “what is the best way to insulate a bathhouse?” There are several materials about which there are no negative opinions. At least for now...

New generation mineral insulation

URSA PUREONE material is presented as a new generation of mineral insulation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.

URSA PUREONE material is one of the harmless insulation materials

The safety of URSA PUREONE is confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as an M1 Eurofins material, EUCEB certified).

Certificate issued by URSA PUREONE -

Insulation made of glass, peat and paper

FOAMGLAS® foam glass is foam glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: high price and quite heavy weight.

There are also insulation based on peat - peat blocks . The crushed peat is soaked in water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc. Blocks are formed from the resulting mushy mass, which are used as a heat and sound insulator. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a “breathable” material - it absorbs moisture well and also releases moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.

Peat block is not yet the most popular material

Despite all positive traits peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoCar company from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.

There is also such a heat insulator as ecowool . This is a cellulose substance for the most part consisting of recycled newspapers, to which safe (according to the manufacturers) flame retardants - boric acid and borax salts - have been added. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture and is not suitable for thermal insulation of a bathhouse .

Fiberboards - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. The wood chips are ground, diluted with water, and distributed over a grid. The mass simply dries, after which it is cut into sheets.

Among the safe insulation materials one can also name natural insulation materials made from flax, wool, moss, and reeds. Sawdust, reeds and straw are also used as insulating material. But all these substances are flammable, and without treatment with special compounds they cannot be used to insulate a bathhouse.

Modern foil insulation

In this article we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials Finns use it in the construction of saunas. Hot Finnish guys use insulation boards SPU Sauna-Satu. specially designed for insulating walls and ceilings in a sauna.

SPU Sauna Satu slabs are made of polyurethane foam and have an aluminum laminate coating on both sides.

SPU Sauna-Satu stove

SPU Sauna Satu slabs can be attached to walls even without lathing.

At the moment, it is SPU Sauna Satu slabs that can be considered the most suitable insulation for baths and saunas.

The main problems of insulating a bathhouse are related to the insulation of the steam room, since it not only has very high humidity, but also high temperature. Under the influence of high temperatures, many insulation materials begin to emit toxic substances which may harm human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully select mineral wool-based insulation, since many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins, which act as a binder.

You should not use foam and polystyrene foam as insulation, which when heated to 60 degrees Celsius begin to release toxic substances.

To be fair, it should be noted that many natural materials that are harmless at normal temperatures, when heated, can release substances that can harm human health.

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands Insulating a bathhouse - what you need for work Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands will save money on work and heating. To a comfortable bathhouse,

Insulating a wooden bathhouse with your own hands

One of the main characteristics of a sauna is how quickly it warms up. The bath should warm up quickly, and the temperature in the steam room should remain high for a sufficiently long time. The comfort of staying in the bathhouse depends on this. Its efficiency also largely depends on this, since it takes much less fuel to warm up the bath.

Bathroom ceiling insulation should include: decorative finishing(lining), reflective waterproofing, insulation (mineral wool), lathing and vapor insulation.

Taking all this into account, insulating a bathhouse is very important, and the quality of the material does not matter. Is it possible to insulate a bathhouse with your own hands? And how to do it right? Before answering this question, it should be borne in mind that insulation is a special procedure. This is explained by the fact that an unusual humidity and temperature regime remains indoors for a long time. That is, the insulation must have a certain number of different properties.

If we talk about the qualities of insulation, then first of all it must be resistant to moisture. It should not disintegrate upon contact with liquid. The insulation must be resistant to elevated temperatures and must not form under their influence.

Scheme for insulating the walls of a wooden bathhouse.

As you know, a residential building is insulated from the outside, but the insulation of a bathhouse must be done from the inside. Definitely, insulating the bathhouse from the inside helps to maintain the required degree of moisture, that is, the temperature in the steam room.

It should be taken into account that the foundation of the bathhouse is covered with mats that are made of mineral wool from the inside, and the density of such material should be increased from the inside, and not from the outside. To avoid confusion, you should tell us in more detail about all the works. If you take all this into account, then insulating a bathhouse with your own hands will not become a big problem.

A sheathing should be made on the inside surface. It is necessary to attach insulation to it, which is moisture resistant. It is very important that the seams between the slabs are properly sealed. To achieve this, it is recommended to use aluminum tape. When the insulating layer is finally done, it’s time to apply a rolled vapor barrier. All this must be done with the utmost care, then everything will work out.

When the thermal vapor barrier is completely ready, you can begin finishing the bathhouse. For these purposes, a lining made of wood is used. It should be taken into account that this material is the most suitable for cladding a wooden bathhouse.

Scheme of floor insulation in a bathhouse.

Now it is necessary to take into account the materials that can be used in this matter. They are divided into two categories: organic and material. The first type includes various kinds materials that are made on the basis of mineral wool. Such materials include whole line advantages: very long service life, very high resistance to rotting and increased resistance to moisture. It should be noted that there is an increased degree of fire hazard, which is a very important factor for wooden baths.

A separate group of materials for bath insulation consists of various types of foam plastics (expanded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, and so on). But it should be taken into account that certain materials of this category during operation at a certain temperature can deform and emit gases, which negatively affects health. If materials made from foam plastic are chosen to insulate a bath or sauna, then they should be chosen with special care. When purchasing such insulation materials, special attention should be paid to whether there are appropriate sanitary and hygienic certificates.

The best organic insulation materials are made from wood waste, reeds or peat. In this regard, the most common materials are reed and fiberboard. When using such materials, financial costs are significantly reduced. It should be borne in mind that such insulating materials can only be used where winter time The outside air temperature cannot fall below 17 degrees. In order to reduce the fire hazard of such materials, it is imperative to protect them from fungus. To do this, the slabs must be treated with a special compound.

Diagram of the insulation features of the bathhouse ceiling.

As for materials that are made on an organic basis (wood-fiber and particle boards), they can only be used to insulate the dressing room.

Organic slabs that have heat-insulating properties can be made with your own hands.

You need to get small chips, shavings or sawdust for this. They must be mixed with lime or cement mortar, then they are laid in formwork of the appropriate shape and height. It is very important to compact them as tightly as possible. After the mass hardens, excellent heat-insulating boards are obtained, which have a low cost.

For vapor barrier purposes, it is best to use foil. It can be replaced with other materials, for example, nanoisol or isospan. But it should be borne in mind that the cost of such materials is quite high, which will negatively affect the budget. You can save a lot of money without sacrificing quality. You can use the most ordinary polyethylene film as a vapor barrier; its density must be at least 140 microns.

To insulate a bathhouse, it is permissible to use a variety of materials; there are many of them on sale today. When it comes to insulating a bathhouse from the inside, it is recommended to use materials that combine two properties: they retain heat and provide a vapor barrier to the room.

The most common material in this regard is foamed polypropylene; foil must be applied to its surface. The fact is that such material can withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees. It is noteworthy that such material is not subject to deformation under the influence of constant dampness. When purchasing such insulating materials, you should carefully ensure that they are labeled “for sauna.” Similar materials can be used when insulating a bathhouse from the outside. And all this is done without much difficulty.

Additional Information

When insulating a bathhouse, you should not forget that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the roof. The most effective way to prevent heat loss through the roof is to coat it with a mixture made from clay and sawdust.

The screed must be covered with a special roofing film, then everything must be covered with peat, which must be mixed with sawdust.

If everything is done properly, then there is no doubt that all work will be completed successfully. In order to achieve this, you must strictly follow the instructions. If everything is done correctly, the result will exceed all expectations.

Recommendations for insulating a wooden bathhouse with your own hands. Materials and tools needed for this. Characteristics of materials. Additional Information.

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside: diagram and procedure

Visiting a bathhouse is a healthy pastime that makes you feel more energetic and younger. It is not surprising that owners are happy to erect this structure on their plots and dachas.

However, in this case, the matter does not end with simply erecting walls. In order for the bathhouse to be cozy at any time of the year, it will have to be properly insulated from the inside.

What is it for?

The bathhouse must have a special microclimate that gives a good healing effect. It is to ensure this that walls and ceilings are insulated. Floors are most often insulated from the cold during the construction stage. But you can work on the walls and ceiling a little later, at a time convenient for the owners.

Before you begin, you need to understand three important points:

• possession of construction skills - for some, the insulation process is not a problem, others will experience significant difficulties, since they are faced with such a task for the first time;
• financial capabilities are also an important factor, often determining;
• choosing the appropriate material that matches both the financial capabilities and construction skills of a particular person.

Perhaps it would be easier to turn to specialists in this field and save your time and nerves? Each situation must be considered individually and the right decision must be made.

Insulation solves the following problems:

• provides protection of the supporting structure from steam;
• prevents water penetration;
• increases the resistance of the structure to possible fire.

And if an expensive and environmentally friendly material is chosen, this is another additional plus for the owners.

Which material is suitable?

Insulation is carried out using both artificial and completely natural materials. The natural origin of the insulation is a guarantee of the environmental friendliness of the building and its safety during operation. However, such material is often more expensive than artificial insulation.

Natural materials include cuckoo flax, sphagnum, hemp, tow, felt, and moss. It is a safe choice that ensures the building is environmentally friendly and authentic. But without proper treatment, such building materials quickly rot and are attacked by rodents and insects. These disadvantages should be remembered at the selection stage!

Artificial building materials are easy to install and are resistant to fire and biological effects. You can install them on the ceiling or walls much faster. The price of many artificial samples will be lower, as will the material consumption.

Nuances of choice

It is important to take into account other factors such as technical characteristics, purpose, appearance.

To cover the inside of baths and provide vapor barrier, the following are most often used:

Aluminum foil, which perfectly reflects heat into the room, thereby reducing energy consumption. This material can be used, among other things, for processing steam rooms.

Ruberoid- a fairly cheap material, which, however, cannot be called environmentally friendly. When exposed to high temperatures, roofing felt releases dangerous chemical compounds into the air. For this reason it is not used in doubles.

Has similar qualities glassine. More often it is used for bathhouses in conjunction with other building materials. The ideal “pie” in this case looks like this: log house - glassine - lining with mineral wool - installation of aluminum foil - lining.

The cheapest option is to use rolled polyethylene. This solution is suitable for country dachas, where baths are operated with low intensity.

The chemical composition of the insulation is also important. The environmental characteristics of the bathhouse depend on it:

• Expanded polystyrene and polystyrene are made from plastics;
• technoblock and technovet are classified as techno-insulation materials;
• basalt fiber, glass wool and mineral wool are classic inorganic materials;
• wood concrete, ecowool and fibrolite are materials of organic (natural) origin.

By mechanical properties All building materials can be divided into fills, blocks or slabs, mats and fibers.

Important points

You should not start work if you have doubts about your construction skills and the owner is holding tools almost for the first time in his life. The help of specialists in such a situation will be very appropriate.

In other cases, you can successfully use general recommendations and tips to avoid annoying mistakes.

When working with walls it is important:

1. Carefully treat the floors with special solutions that protect the wood from fungus, mold and rot.
2. Provide ventilation gaps. Through these technical holes, the insulation dries and it lasts longer.
3. Ensure tight installation (adherence to the walls). The closer the insulating material is to the wall, the lower the likelihood of accidental penetration of cold air and condensation formation.

Installation of insulation on walls

And when working with ceilings you must:

1. Do not choose plastic materials, as they collect a large amount of moisture.
2. Give preference to building materials that do not emit harmful substances when heated. Roofing felt and glassine are prohibited.
3. Avoid materials subject to deformation. Under the influence of high temperatures and steam, such insulation will quickly sag.

Work order

When insulating walls, you can use the traditional construction scheme (it is ideal for bathhouses built from timber):

1. At the first stage, a timber frame is erected. For this, beams with a thickness margin of 20-30 millimeters are used. Vertical and horizontal sheathing is installed from them.
2. Then the cladding is done with mineral wool or other selected material.
3. A vapor barrier layer is attached to the top. For example, from foil. The material is laid overlapping, and all joints are reinforced with wooden slats.
4. At the final stage, the sheathing under the lining is installed. The distance between the lining and the layer of vapor barrier material provides the ventilation gap necessary for the structure.

When constructing a frame or panel structure, typical for cold climates, lightweight building materials are suitable - polystyrene foam, reed slabs or mineral wool. In this case, the selected material is treated with lime milk, dried and placed in the space between the walls. In regions with a warmer climate, you can use backfill: sawdust, a mixture of cement (gypsum) and wood shavings in a ten to one ratio.

Also successfully used ready-made solutions– materials consisting of several layers and possessing all the necessary qualities. For example, a foamer based on foil, which simultaneously provides heat retention and reliable waterproofing.

An important point: all corners and joints in the area of ​​windows and doors are treated with vapor barrier tape!

Working with ceilings

The entire construction process is completed by insulating the ceilings. For this part of the structure, you can choose fiberboard, chipboard or plywood.. Materials with plastic base It’s better not to use it, especially in a steam room, where the temperature near the ceiling often reaches 160 degrees.

It is important to exclude places where warm air will escape outside and cold air will penetrate inside. Such gaps will become a weak point of the entire structure due to the abundant formation of condensed moisture.

The area near the pipe is insulated with a box, which is filled with stone wool. The distance from the main insulation to the hot pipe must be at least 200 millimeters so as not to violate fire safety standards!

The process of laying insulation will depend on the design of the ceilings.

If there is no attic, regardless of the material of the supporting structure, the following installation scheme is performed:

If there is an attic or attic, the ceiling boards are coated with clay, and the cracks are filled with wood chips. You can also use expanded clay for backfilling. This ensures a thickness of the thermal insulation layer of at least 20 centimeters.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands?

Insulating baths from the inside: why is it needed? What materials can be used, important points and subtleties of choice. The procedure for working with walls and ceilings, recommendations and tips.

How and with what to insulate a bathhouse, sauna, steam room from the inside and outside

Traditions, the healing effect of a bathhouse, utilitarian necessity or a way of organizing leisure time are some of the arguments in favor of your own bathhouse. Owners of private houses and country cottages, when setting up a bathhouse, are faced with such issues during construction and operation as the need to ensure slow cooling of the bathhouse premises. The solution is to thermally insulate the walls, floor, and ceiling of the bathhouse. Let's look at how to do this correctly.

Is it necessary to insulate the bathhouse?

Yes, you need thermal insulation:

• helps to increase the inertia of the bath, as a result - it takes longer to warm up, but cools down much longer;
• minimizes heat consumption;
• reduces heating costs;
• ensures the achievement of an optimal microclimate;
• increases moisture control;
• protects against biological activity (fungus, mold).

To get all the benefits listed above, you need to take care of the proper insulation of the bathhouse, sauna, and steam room. At the same time, there are no obstacles to independent thermal insulation: the scope of work is small, the technology is not complicated, the material and tools are available. Recommendations and step-by-step instructions will help organize the process “from A to Z,” even for beginners without experience in construction.

How to insulate a bathhouse with your own hands

A detailed analysis of how and with what you can insulate a bathhouse, which side is better (inside or outside), where to start and how to finish.

1. From the position of the location of the insulation

• External insulation of a bath. When insulating a house, basement or garage, it has been proven that placing insulating material outside will be more effective. This allows you to protect the material from which the bathhouse is built. The roof of the bathhouse (attic) must be insulated if it is a separate building.

• Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside. The operating mode of the bathhouse is such that external insulation alone, with all its advantages, cannot be done. Moreover, in different rooms of the bathhouse it is necessary to maintain its own microclimate, humidity level and set temperature. Therefore, they begin to insulate the bathhouse from the inside. Moreover, suitable materials are chosen for each room, which in turn influence the choice of installation technology.

As you can see, the insulation process is complex.

2. From the perspective of the heat-insulating material used

There are different types of insulation materials available on the domestic construction market. Do not forget that a bathhouse can provide a healing effect only if natural and safe thermal insulation materials are used indoors.

Insulation requirements:

• environmental cleanliness. When exposed to high temperatures and moisture, insulating materials can release toxic substances. Considering the temperature and humidity conditions of the bathhouse, this indicator must be treated carefully;
• hygroscopicity;
• thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the less amount of heat the material transmits through itself per unit of time;
• biological inertia;
• Fire safety;
• ability to maintain shape;
• availability, cost and ease of installation.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside and outside

Let's consider which insulation for saunas and steam rooms is better and meets the requirements.

Organic thermal insulation materials

Known for a long time, even our ancestors sought to protect a heated bathhouse from heat loss using improvised means. The raw materials for the production of organic insulation are natural materials. Among the common ones are:

• flax tow, regular and tarred;
• sawdust;
• felt or jute;
• reed

The undeniable advantage of the listed materials is their naturalness. Disadvantages include: fire danger, ability to absorb moisture, difficulty of use, attractiveness to rodents and microorganisms.

Semi-organic thermal insulation materials

Natural raw materials are used for production, but during the production process adhesive compositions, which excludes the insulation of the steam room with their use. These include:

• reed slabs (mats);
• particle boards;
• peat slabs.

Synthetic thermal insulation materials

They are manufactured under production conditions and are combined into two subtypes:

• polymer. These include polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, penoizol, polyurethane foam. Bathroom insulation with polystyrene foam or its derivatives cannot be carried out in the steam room and near the firebox, because Styrofoam supports combustion; when heated strongly, it will release harmful styrene. But for other rooms or external insulation this material is indispensable.

An exception is the foil insulation penoizol, which is used in the steam room, due to the presence of a layer of aluminum foil that prevents the loss of infrared thermal radiation. The use of penoizol is allowed by standards;

3. From the point of view of the material from which the bathhouse is built

When choosing insulation and insulation method, you need to take into account the material that was used to build the bathhouse and the climatic conditions in the region. These conditions will determine the thickness of the insulation.

Insulation of a wooden bathhouse made of timber and logs

A newly built bathhouse (made of logs or timber) does not need insulation. Wood retains heat well, plus inter-crown insulation performs a thermal insulation function. Over time, the log house shrinks and after two or three years, cracks appear between the crowns, through which heat escapes.

When insulating a log house important role waterproofing and the choice of thermal insulator play a role. It is recommended to perform inter-crown caulking with natural materials or use basalt wool, because... Thanks to its structure, it helps maintain the microclimate and allows the tree to “breathe.”

Inter-crown insulation for timber - thermal insulation of a wooden bath

In addition to glued or profiled timber, rounded logs are used to build a bathhouse. Thanks to mechanical processing, such logs have less shrinkage, so the requirements for insulation, in particular for the arrangement of the frame, are lower. In general, the insulation of a log house is carried out similarly to the thermal insulation of a bathhouse made of timber.

Insulation frame bath

The frame or skeleton provides excellent opportunities for placing thermal insulation material. Frame construction considered the most energy efficient.

To insulate a frame bath it is better to use soft insulation high density, protected by membranes from moisture (placed inside the walls). Organic insulation can also be used, in particular a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, gypsum and lime. This composition serves as a full-fledged insulation (it is placed between the layers of sheathing).

Insulation frame walls baths with sawdust, wood chips and clay

Insulation of a brick bath

Despite the high thermal conductivity of brick, baths made from it are common. A serious drawback of brick is its ability to freeze quickly, and this leads to significant heating costs. Therefore, brick baths usually have an internal wooden frame, which performs a decorative function, and thermal insulation material is perfectly placed behind it.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of foam blocks and gas blocks

Foam concrete or aerated concrete are materials used in modern construction baths The advantage of cellular concrete is its porous structure, which retains heat well. But this material has an unattractive appearance, plus it is able to absorb moisture (especially aerated concrete, with its open pores). Since wet wall material does not retain heat, foam blocks need insulation, which is done from the outside.

The peculiarity of insulating foam block baths (as well as from aerated concrete and expanded clay concrete blocks) is that the material requires good ventilation. Therefore, ventilation must be done in an insulated bathhouse.

4. From the perspective of the front of work performed

As a brief overview of the materials showed, each of them must be used taking into account the location and material of construction of the bathhouse. Therefore, we will consider how to insulate walls in a bathhouse from the inside in the context of individual directions.

Insulation of bath walls from the inside

The direction of thermal insulation of walls depends on what function the room performs.

The steam room is the most important part of the sauna. The temperature in the steam room can reach 90 °C (Russian bath) and 130 °C (sauna). Maintaining such a temperature is difficult and costly if you do not properly insulate the steam room in the bathhouse. Only natural materials can be used in the steam room. Basalt wool, laid in a frame or natural insulation, has proven itself to be excellent for those who are not ready to sacrifice the natural beauty of wood.

Insulation of walls in a foam concrete bathhouse with cotton wool

• frame device. Guides made of timber or metal profile are mounted on the wall. Since the bathhouse is a low building, it is often enough to make only vertical guides and choose cotton wool with a density of more than 65 kr./m3. The distance between the frame slats (pitch) is 15-20 less than the width of the wool and is 580-590 mm.

Important! The specificity of laying wool in a steam room is that you cannot use metal guides, but only wood; in addition, you have to take into account temperature fluctuations and the ability of wood to expand/contract under their influence.

To level out temperature fluctuations, when constructing the frame, vertical cuts are made in the timber, through which the timber is attached to the wall with hardware. The presence of grooves allows the guide to move along the wall; they also compensate for possible shrinkage of the walls if the bathhouse is built from timber.

How to insulate walls in a bathhouse with basalt wool and foam insulation

Insulation of bathhouse walls with sawdust (heat-insulating mixture)

• a wooden frame is being installed. If the lining is planned to be mounted vertically, then the frame guides should be positioned horizontally;
• a mixture is being prepared for insulating walls: – lime – 1 part (used as an antiseptic); Insulating a bathhouse made of timber/logs with jute

  Jute – jute rope, tape, felt, inter-crown insulation (organic material)

  Thermal insulation is carried out using a special tool - a wooden hammer, a mallet (weight 300-400 g), chisels and a caulking shovel.

  Sealing cracks between logs and beams: jute is placed (hammered) into the inter-crown cracks, while trying to lay the material as tightly as possible.

  How to seal cracks in a wooden bathhouse with jute

  Insulation of a washing room in a bathhouse

  The washing compartment, dressing room or rest room have a lower temperature, so foam plastic can be used to insulate the walls in these rooms.

  • the frame is made. Some craftsmen recommend laying foam sheets with glue. But this method is only suitable for brick or foam concrete baths, but not for wooden ones;
  • foam is placed between the cells of the frame. There is no need to protect the foam from moisture, so films are not used;
  • finishing is being carried out.

  Bathhouse roof insulation

  An important area of ​​thermal insulation work, because Quite a lot of heat escapes through the roof. If the roof is well insulated, insulation of the ceiling can be eliminated. However, it is possible to insulate the roof only if the bathhouse is a separate building with a pitched roof. For insulation, you can use any heat-insulating material that is laid on the attic floor.

  The procedure for using synthetic insulation, wool or polystyrene foam is no different from laying it on the wall.

  Insulating the roof of a bathhouse with sawdust

  • arrangement of the frame;
  • sawdust preparation. If sawdust is poured in the form of a dry mixture, then it must be dried, deresined, and impregnated with an antiseptic. Dry sawdust can be poured in the form of a mixture between the cells of the frame and covered with a membrane or covered with ash. But more often they are placed in plastic bags and stacked in bags;

  Insulation of the roof in a bathhouse with sawdust poured into bags

  • preparation of the mixture. Sawdust insulation is an effective thermal insulation option if the floor is a concrete slab. Composition of the mixture for insulation (proportions of components):

  First, mix the dry materials and then add water to the desired consistency.

  There is a second recipe:

  Insulating a bathhouse with a mixture of sawdust, clay and straw

  In this case, the clay is soaked in water, diluted to the consistency of sour cream and mixed with sawdust.

  An effective insulation will be a 100 mm layer of sawdust mixture.

  Insulating the roof of a bathhouse with sawdust Backfilling ash around the pipe outlet sauna stove from the attic floor

  Insulation of the ceiling in the bathhouse

  Note that it is logical to start insulating a bathhouse from the ceiling. After all, warm air collects under the ceiling, which means it is a source of heat loss. The insulation technology depends on the material used.

  How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse

  To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, basalt wool is used, which is laid using the same technology as on the wall - with the arrangement of the frame.

  Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling with sawdust is carried out according to the principle of thermal insulation of a cold roof (attic floor). Sawdust is placed in a plastic bag and placed in a frame made on the ceiling or between the floor beams.

  Recommendation. When insulating the ceiling, you need to remember that the temperature at the exit of the heating pipe is very high. In this place, only basalt wool can be used, as a material that has a very high melting point and does not support combustion. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling is covered with a stainless steel metal plate (a reflective, protective screen for the stove pipe).

  Protective screen for the stove pipe in the bathhouse and the consequences of its absence

  Instead of sawdust, expanded clay can be used on the ceiling, poured into the frame. But it has significant weight and hygroscopicity. Therefore, according to reviews, users abandoned this material in favor of others.

  Bathroom floor insulation

  The floor in the bathhouse can be concrete or wood. Depending on the type, different thermal insulation technologies are used. Insulation of a concrete floor can be done with expanded clay or polystyrene foam.

  Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay

  • the foundation is being prepared. To do this, the subfloor is removed and the soil is removed. The depth of the recess is 400-500 mm. below the threshold level;
  • Waterproofing is laid on the floor - film or roofing felt. It is important that the edges of the film extend onto the wall to the full height of the floor after insulation;
  • a rough screed with a thickness of 100 mm is performed. or a crushed stone-sand cushion of 150 mm is laid;
  • Expanded clay gravel is poured. The minimum thickness of the expanded clay layer is 300 mm, otherwise it will not serve as a heat insulator;
  • a reinforced mesh is laid on top of the expanded clay and a layer is poured cement screed 50-70 mm. When pouring concrete mortar, it is important to ensure the correct angle of the floor to the drain;
  • a finishing floor is formed.

  It is worth noting that expanded clay can be laid without using a screed. For this, a frame is made of wooden beams. Expanded clay is poured into the cells of the frame, a waterproofing film is laid on it and a finished floor covering made of wooden floor boards is laid. However, this method is not suitable for steam rooms and washing rooms, where there is a high level of humidity.

  Technology of floor insulation in a bathhouse with expanded clay with and without screed

  When considering how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse, it is better to give preference to a concrete base followed by laying tiles on it (if it is a washing room or dressing room), or wooden flooring, which is best used in a steam room:

  • For laying tiles, use tile adhesive and a notched trowel;
  • for laying wooden flooring, the floor is ironed and then installed wooden joists, with a slope of 5° towards the drain. Floor boards are installed on the joists, maintaining a gap of 5-10 mm between the boards. The gap is needed for water drainage and ventilation.

  A concrete floor in a bathhouse is a practical solution, since it is resistant to moisture, and its service life is 3-4 times longer than the service life of a wooden floor on joists.

  Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex

  A more modern and technologically advanced method of insulation. However, many users believe that it is wrong to insulate a steam room using synthetic material (essentially, penoplex is extruded polystyrene foam), because when exposed to high temperatures, it can release harmful substances. Therefore, penoplex is used in other rooms, with lower temperatures.

  How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with penoplex

  • prepare the base: remove the old screed, remove the wooden flooring or remove the soil if the bathhouse is new;
  • pour a 50-100 mm layer of rough screed to level the floor surface for laying foam boards;
  • lay sheets of foam plastic or materials from this group of insulation;
  • lay the reinforcing mesh;
  • pour a layer of screed 50-100 mm thick;
  • lay the finished floor.

  Technology of floor insulation in a bathhouse with penoplex Laying floorboards on a foam-insulated floor in a bathhouse

  Insulation of the bathhouse floor with a warm floor system

  Another option that is gradually gaining popularity is heated floors in the bathhouse. Its essence is that pipes are mounted in the screed, creating a warm circuit through which heated water moves (water floor). Thus, we are not talking about insulation, but about how to heat the floor in a bathhouse. And these are different concepts.

  Heating the floor in the bath - water heated floor

  Insulation of openings in the bathhouse

  Insulating doors and windows in a bathhouse also helps improve the energy efficiency of the room. To reduce heat loss, window and door openings are initially made minimally acceptable (in particular, the door to the steam room), and the windows are also located closer to the floor surface. But they still need to be insulated; for this it is necessary to install sealed double-glazed windows and seals along the contours of windows and doors.

  Conclusion

  When insulating a bathhouse with your own hands, you should not forget about arranging high-quality ventilation. This will have a positive effect not only on the health of bathhouse users, but also on the properties of finishing materials.

  Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands - thermal insulation for bathhouses and saunas photo-video

  
  How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside and outside - do-it-yourself thermal insulation of walls, floors, roofs, ceilings in a sauna and steam room. What is the best insulation for a bathhouse, how to insulate a wooden, brick and foam block bathhouse

Lining is a finishing material; it is attached to the walls when all other work has been completed, including insulation. Consequently, one should ask the question of how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside under the lining long before its installation begins.

However, it also happens differently - the bathhouse has been finished for a long time, but you are not satisfied with the way it holds heat. And then you need to think about how to properly insulate the bathhouse underneath in order to eliminate the problem with thermal insulation. Of course, it will have to be dismantled for a while. And then act exactly as if you were just building.

Types of suitable insulation materials

In our opinion, it makes sense to divide the types of thermal insulation materials for baths into sheet, roll And backfill. In addition, there are insulation materials that are applied to the walls in the form foam or moistened mass- These are polyurethane foam and ecowool, which are sprayed using special equipment.

Mineral wool can be purchased in rolls or sheets. It all depends on its density and the binders used.

BY THE WAY! We rarely name specific brands, but do you understand that the names Rockwool or Isover hide the same mineral wool produced by different companies?

Basalt wool is a type of mineral wool, a literal indication of a similar mineral used. There is practically no difference.

Basalt wool for baths

But to confuse mineral wool and glass wool not worth it - it's different insulation materials, from different materials and with different properties.

Glass wool It is no longer worth using anywhere, because it is extremely unpleasant for humans - if it gets on the skin, it causes itching, and is hazardous to health if it gets into the eyes or respiratory organs. Yes, and fiberglass crumbles during operation, turns into dust, and it penetrates through the cracks, and you breathe it.

Does not like fiberglass insulation and elevated temperatures typical of a bathhouse.

Styrofoam And extruded polystyrene foam- good insulation materials, especially the last one, but using them in a bathhouse is dangerous. They are absolutely not suitable for a steam room, but could (theoretically) be used in other rooms, but we will not recommend them, since they are a fire hazard.

ADVICE! In the bathhouse, polystyrene foam and penoplex can be used in floors under concrete screed - there they do not pose any danger.

So, leafy insulation materials are mineral wool, foam glass (excellent, but expensive insulation), calcium silicate and magnesium silicate sheets, non-recommended polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene.

Foam glass

Rolled insulation is again mineral wool (lower density), glass wool. foamed polyethylene, with or without foil (penofol, isolon, etc.).

We have already spoken about fiberglass, now about foamed polyethylene e. It is often used as additional insulation in residential buildings, but polyethylene does not tolerate high temperatures, so it should not be used instead of foil to insulate a steam room.

Foil insulation Penofol

IMPORTANT! Polyethylene already melts at a temperature of one hundred degrees. By the way, it supports combustion.

In general, it is quite possible to insulate other rooms of the bathhouse with it (as a second layer).

Bulk We will divide insulation for a bath into those that can be moistened and “glued” to the wall, and those that cannot. Expanded clay and vermiculite belong to the second category, ecowool - to the first.

AND vermiculite can be used for insulating floors and, where they adhere perfectly and keep heat indoors. In order to insulate the walls of a bathhouse with them, it is necessary that between the two layers of the main wall material there is a gap, a cavity that can be filled with insulation.

Ecowool- This is waste paper (cellulose) crushed into dust, with fire retardants so that it does not support combustion. And it really doesn’t support it - this is a good material for insulating baths where it is on sale. Ecowool is used in dry and wet form. In dry conditions - for insulating floors and ceilings, as well as for filling cavities. When wet - for application to walls.

Also on our website you can read two articles that make more full review insulation materials that can be used in a bathhouse:

Insulation under the lining in bathhouses built from different materials

How does wall material affect the choice of thermal insulation? Let's take a consistent look at the options of what we can build a bathhouse from and compare the material and insulation technology.

Brick

Brick baths – cold And non-flammable. The first circumstance prevents them from becoming traditional, because a cold bath (almost made of stone) needs to be heated for a long time, which is not particularly welcome in our fast-paced age.

But the fact that it won’t burn is a big plus, considering that bathhouses burn most often.

So, it is precisely in order to reduce the disadvantages that thermal insulation should be used - it is most effective in buildings of this kind.

IMPORTANT! Thermal insulation of a brick structure can be not only internal or external, but also located between two layers of brickwork.

The latter circumstance increases the possibility of choosing insulation. Backfill expanded clay or ecowool- this is an excellent solution. Ecowool, for example, is used in “double timber” structures, and it works great for decades.

You can also safely fill the gap polyurethane foam- it’s expensive, it requires hiring a team with equipment, but it’s reliable and safe, because polyurethane is flammable, and in the space between the layers of brick nothing threatens it, including ultraviolet radiation, which destroys it.

In other cases, the traditional one is used mineral wool- most often, because, despite all its shortcomings, it does not support combustion, and high-quality one does not emit volatile organic matter, which is harmful to health.

You can learn more about the technology of insulating a brick wall from the article.

Blocks

Of course, a brick is also a block, but in practice we more often call products made from block materials slag concrete, foam concrete, aerated concrete. Of course, they are larger and more similar to blocks, but they still have more internal similarities than bricks.

The fact is that high-quality brick does not crack, holds fasteners well, and does not absorb moisture. In essence, it is baked clay, almost stone. A concrete blocks either contain light (by density) impurities in the form of slag, or are foamed in one way or another, that is, they contain air bubbles.

You can learn more about the similarities and differences between various foam concrete and slag concrete.

Both have a strong impact on a number of qualities. Essentially thermal conductivity decreases blocks, they themselves retain heat perfectly even without insulation. But most of them are afraid of water, all of them do not hold fasteners well (driving a nail into such a wall is problematic, but what about fasteners, for example?). Destroying blocks is quite easy.

But we are talking about thermal insulation. Do blocks need it? Yes, it is needed in the bathhouse and living space, especially if the climate is harsh. But in addition to thermal insulation, it is worth taking good care of waterproofing wall material. To do this, it is covered with all kinds of films and membranes.

Mineral wool is also afraid of water, so it is better to fear blocks and mineral wool together, under a layer of vapor and waterproofing inside and outside. You will find the construction of a proper thermal insulation cake in the article.

Frame

A frame structure, in essence, is insulation between slats, covered on both sides with OSB boards, boards, and other sheet material.

In other words, insulation is the main one of two or three materials, forming a wall. Therefore no extra work There is no need to carry out thermal insulation if the initial calculation was made correctly and you selected the right insulation thickness.

Frame wall pie. See more about insulating frame walls.

Standard "pie", that is, the layers that make up the wall of a frame structure are as follows:

• if you start from the inside, then the first layer will be finishing, for example, lining;
• the lining is nailed onto the sheathing, which is attached to the frame posts;
• under the sheathing there is a mandatory layer of vapor barrier, that is, a material that is one hundred percent impenetrable to water vapor - this can be plastic film or foil;
• the vapor barrier directly covers the insulation, which is most often mineral wool, but can also be reed slabs, a mixture of sawdust and gypsum/cement/clay, or ecowool;
• the insulation is located between the frame posts, equal in layer thickness to them;
• Next comes, for example, an OSB board, covering the thermal insulator from the outside and imparting rigidity to the structure;
• a membrane or waterproofing film is mounted on top of the wall panel, which is permeable to water vapor on the insulation side, and reverse side impenetrable;
• External wall trim is attached on top of the waterproofing.

More detailed information about frame insulation technologies - in the article.

Tree

Wooden baths are either log houses, that is, they are placed from cylindrical logs, or from timber– logs with square or rectangular cross-section.

Traditionally, such baths do not require additional thermal insulation at all if they are properly installed and installed. caulk gaps between the crowns. Can be used as caulking material tow, moss, flax wool. But for laying between the crowns at the construction stage, it is most often recommended to lay strips jute.

Natural insulation in the bathhouse is preferable, but in addition to this, you can use modern sealants for wood, which have a certain elasticity, which allows them to change dimensions along with, which “breathes” even after the structure has completed its final shrinkage.

If, during the operation of the bathhouse, it turns out that the thickness of the timber or log house does not correspond to the severity of the climate, then you have to additional insulation. This is also a standard “pie”, consisting of lining, lathing, vapor barrier and insulation, the latter being attached directly to a wooden wall.

The article describes how a bathhouse made of timber is insulated.

How to properly insulate a steam room

Steam room- This is the main bathing room, from which visitors expect certain properties, in particular, long-term heat retention. To do this, it is insulated, but this must be done taking into account the preferences of certain traditions.

The point is that in Russian bath long-term heating and heat retention is carried out due to prolonged heating by the same brick oven. Slowly heated wooden surfaces give off heat for just as long. If the thickness of the walls is not small and there are no cracks in them, then additional insulation is not required.

In addition, the Russian bath does not strive for high temperatures. If you make a “thermos” in it, it can become an obstacle to maintaining fairly low temperatures(40-70 degrees), characteristic of this type of national bath. Thermos is made using foil.

For more information on using foil for the ceiling, see this

As for the Finnish bathhouse - sauna, the task here is precisely to reach the set high temperature in the steam room in the shortest possible time and maintain it until the end of the procedures, subject to intensive air exchange.

It is worth insulating the steam room only if there are real problems with heat loss.

ADVICE! Focus on the material of the walls: in a brick bath, thermal insulation of the steam room is required, in a frame bath the thickness of the walls is included in the design, in a block bath it can be moderate, with a greater emphasis on waterproofing, and in a wooden bath it may not be necessary at all.

About the “thermos” a little lower, but otherwise the insulation scheme looks standard - most people use mineral wool, because in fact there are not so many options for insulation in the bathhouse under the steam room lining. But even if it is mineral wool, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is intended strictly for saunas and baths - this means that it reduced content of phenols and other harmful substances in a bundle for stone fibers.

Besides mineral wool Baths can be used in a steam room ecowool, and some other materials that are harmless to health.

You already know that the insulation is placed directly on the wooden walls of the bathhouse, in other cases it is separated vapor protection on the one hand and water protection with another. This applies to insulation materials that are afraid of moisture and lose their insulating properties due to its action.

You can read more about materials and technologies for thermal insulation of steam rooms in the article.

Basalt wool, specially designed for baths and saunas

Foil

Foil always causes heated debate. The debates themselves are divided into two categories: is foil needed in a Russian bath and what is its effectiveness in reflecting heat.

Let's start with the fact that mirror surfaces have long been used for focusing and redirects different types of radiation, including infrared - remember the design of the same reflector. The lining in the bathhouse does not interfere with infrared radiation.

IMPORTANT! But there is an essential condition for the mirror surface to work as a reflector - there must be air in front of the foil. The contact of other material to the foil on the reflection side is unacceptable. The ventilation gap from the foil to the lining is just right.

As for the use of foil in a Russian bath, there is no categorical prohibition, of course, but it is advisable that you have ways temperature adjustment, for example, with the help of ventilation and the oven itself. In a steam room with iron stove without brick or stone lining, with foil insulation, you get a hard version of a sauna, which does more harm than good.

We have two articles in which we analyze the types of foil and the arguments for and against its use in the bath -,

A little about insulation inside and outside

Buildings are insulated from external temperature not only from the inside, but also from the outside, however, each type has its own specifics that you need to know in order to make the right choice.

Residential buildings often insulated from the outside. Have you ever wondered why? The main reason is to make sure that the insulation is the first to take the blow of frost, and the wall material underneath freezes less. Consequently, the temperature difference between the room and the wall is reduced, at the same time shifting the “dew point”.

BUT! All this works in a constantly heated room, that is, in residential buildings.

And the bathhouse is a place periodic use, in winter you heat it up for a long time, spending part of the heat generated by the stove on raising the temperature of the walls, ceilings and floors. So, if thermal insulation is done inside, At the same time, the time for heating the bath is reduced, because the low thermal conductivity of the insulator allows you to heat almost only air.

If the bathhouse is isolated outside, walls, floors, and ceilings are enclosed within the protection, and the stove will have to work hard to heat this mass of wood or stone. That is why it is not recommended to insulate periodically used rooms from the outside. Or do this in parallel with internal insulation where the climate is particularly harsh. in Telegram to keep abreast of all the site news! VKontakte