How to unscrew a rotten screw from a sink siphon. How to remove the drain filter on the washing machine if it does not unscrew or pull out. how to open drain filter

In the washing machine, periodically you need to clean the pump filter and the impeller itself. Sometimes there is an urgent need for these actions.

So it was with me, I had to face the fact that the pump did not pump water out of the machine, it was clogged. In general, there is nothing complicated in this procedure, you unscrew the lid and clean it. But alas, in my case, it was not possible to do this in the way described above.

What to do if the pump cover does not unscrew

The machine stopped draining the water, I'm trying to unscrew this very plug to clean the pump, but it doesn't work, even with the help of pliers. I note right away that excessive force with pliers should not be applied, since plastic handle This cork breaks easily.

I had to act radically, remove the pump!

The reason turned out to be that cotton swabs, several pieces, got inside, - what did they do in the laundry, it is not clear? But these same sticks entered the pump nozzle connected by a rubber hose "Snail" to the washing drum and stood there vertically.

And due to the fact that this lid is not just a cork, it has special design from within. In the photo at the top, on the far right, you can see that two racks extend from the cork on which there is a protective ring. Thanks to this design, the pump impeller has some protection against small items entering the pump.

And so, these cotton swabs entered vertically, partially remaining in plastic pipe they jammed the ability to unscrew the cork, she just rested her posts against them. But I found this out only after I completely removed the entire pump from the machine.

This whole block, the filter along with the motor, must be removed in order to be able to thoroughly clean it.

Removed simply. We unplug the machine from the outlet and disconnect the hoses if they interfere with getting up from below, tilt the machine or even put it on its side after making sure that there is no water in it, if anything, then.

We disconnect the power terminal, and the hoses from the pump nozzles, for this you need pliers to loosen the clamps that fix the hoses on the nozzles. Unscrew with front side fixing screws and remove the pump. Now, through the opening of the nozzle, it became possible to remove cotton swabs. The cover is released, it can be unscrewed for further cleaning, after which it remains to assemble and install everything in place.

The drain filter in the washing machine protects the pump from debris and foreign trifles that fall into the tank with the clothes. To prevent the filter from becoming clogged and impeding draining, it must be cleaned regularly. But sometimes the owners of washing machines forget about it, and the filter overflows with debris. As a result, the following equipment failure situations occur:

• The machine does not pump water from the tank and displays a drain error code.
• SMA works intermittently. Water from the tank drains slowly and not completely. The machine stops and shows an error. Loud pump noise is often heard. Sometimes there is a knocking sound, as if something got into the pump.

In the user manual, to eliminate such errors, it is recommended to remove the filter from the washing machine and clean it. Usually the information is given in the form of a diagram and a short description of the cleaning steps.

After reading the instructions, the owner or hostess of the automatic machine opens the hatch or bottom panel and is faced with another problem:

• Unscrew the drain filter does not work. The lid handle does not budge, as if it were welded to the body.
• The filter scrolls a quarter or half a turn, but does not go any further.
• The filter seems to be completely unscrewed, but it is not pulled out.

How to be and what to do if the filter in the washing machine does not open is not indicated in the manual. Therefore, we have prepared a short guide on how to get a stubborn drain filter from the washer.

First, let's figure out why the drainage unit balks and does not want to obey.

Why can't I unscrew, remove and get the filter

The main reason is foreign objects. Pile, wool, hair, small foreign bodies, handkerchiefs, napkins, socks fall into the trap in front of the pump and tightly block its movement in the cochlea.

More rarely, removing the washing machine filter makes it difficult for scale to build up on the threads. It forms if it has not been cleaned for a long time.

3 ways to open the drain filter

Before proceeding with the "operation", disconnect the AGR from the mains and turn off the water supply. Apply the presented methods sequentially, if the previous option did not help, use the next one.

There is a handle on the filter cover or hole plug. Try turning it with pliers or pliers. Be very careful not to break the filter.

The method is suitable for all three problems:

• when the filter does not rotate at all,
• spinning, but only a quarter or half a turn,
• unscrews but does not come out.

Tilt the machine back 45 degrees (it is better to lean on the wall) and tap with your fist or palm on the filter cover and next to the body. It is possible that foreign objects (coins, bra bones, hair clips, socks, etc.) that block the filter will change their position and stop blocking its unscrewing or pulling out.

Also suitable for all three "ills" with a filter:

• when the filter is not spinning at all,
• turns, but only a quarter or half a turn,
• unscrews but does not pull out.

The method is complicated, so proceed with it if the first two options did not help to remove the drain filter. Your goal is to get to the snail with drainage pump, disconnect the pump from it (sometimes it is more convenient to do this by removing the snail glass itself) and clean the filter through the hole formed.

Advice! If you are far from technology and do not understand the device of the washing machine at all, we recommend calling the wizard. For example, from our workshop. Self repair can not only take a lot of time for a non-specialist, but also lead to more costly consequences.

In modern washing machines with horizontal loading depending on design features you can dismantle the snail with a drain pump by the following three methods.

1. From the bottom through the bottom, if there is access. If there is no bottom or it can be easily removed, then it is most convenient to dismantle the pump in this way. Lay the washing machine on its side or tilt it back 45-60 degrees against a wall. Look for the pump immediately behind the filter at the bottom edge of the housing.

Note! In some models of washing machines, the bottom is partially absent, but access to the pump is hindered by a steel bar with a shock absorber mount (a very common design in the brandBosch). Or in models of washing machines with leakage protection, an Aquastop sensor is installed at the bottom. In both cases, the described method of accessing the pump is not suitable.

2. Through the back wall. In such CMs, the drain pump is located closer to the back wall, so it is very convenient to get close to it in this way. Back wall usually fastened with four screws and easily removed. This pump design is often found on Ardo brand washing machines.

3. Front, removing the front panel with the hatch. The most time-consuming, but sometimes the only method. For example, in many Bosch and Siemens models with horizontal loading, there is no other way to get to the pump.

You will need to dismantle top cover machines and an external clamp that secures the rubber cuff of the door to the front panel. Additionally, it may be necessary to pull out the hopper for detergents, remove the control panel and unscrew the screws that secure the UBL to the front facade with a hatch. Only after these steps can the facade itself be removed, which is usually held on by 3-4 screws. Two screws are usually located in the bottom corners (you may need to remove the bottom panel to get to them). With the remaining one or two screws, there may be different variants depends on the make and model of the washer. Usually they need to be looked for in the upper corners of the front panel or in the dispenser area.

Note! The described methods for accessing the drain pump are used by RemBytTekh masters for machines with a horizontal linen load. If you have a top-loading CMA, then the pump is very easy to reach through side wall- right or left. Which one, look at the location of the filter. Closer to which wall the filter is located, if you look at the machine from the front, you remove it.

The general procedure after you have gained access to the pump is as follows:

• Disconnect the power wires from the pump.
• Place a rag under the snail with the pump or substitute a basin, and carry out all further actions on them.
• Using pliers or pliers, remove the clamp that secures the tank drain pipe to the pump and disconnect it from the volute.
• Try to clean the snail through the hole for the drain pipe. If it is not possible to get close to the hole or if it was not possible to remove objects that block the unscrewing and pulling out of the filter, continue disassembling the pump.
• Disconnect the clamp that secures drain hose to the pump, and remove the hose from the volute.
• Disconnect the pump assembly from the body of the washing machine. Typically, the pump assembly with the volute is attached either to the front wall of the machine or to the bottom with a few screws or screws.
• Disassemble the pump into parts by disconnecting the pump itself from the glass (snail). It is attached to the snail with screws or latches. In the first case, you need to unscrew the screws (usually 3 pieces), in the second - turn the pump counterclockwise until the latches are out of the slots.
• Clean the pump cup through the hole.

After cleaning, the drain filter should easily unscrew or pull out.

What to do if none of the methods helped

This means that the filter of the washing machine is not removed due to scale or lime deposits from hard water. Follow the steps below in order to resolve the issue. This will help minimize the possible cost of new parts.

• Soak a glass with a filter in a solution of water with citric acid, if you have already dismantled it to dissolve the lime. Or start a preventive wash with a "lemon" if you have not had time to disassemble the pump. For soaking, you will need a container in which a glass with a filter is placed so that it is completely under water. Pour hot water, but not boiling water, around 40-60 ° C to reduce the likelihood of spoilage plastic parts filter assembly and rubber gasket. citric acid pour about a tablespoon on the pelvis. It may be necessary to weight the snail with the filter with something so that it does not float after filling the container with water. Leave the filter to soak for 1-2 hours, then try to unscrew it. Not the fact that it will work, but if it works, then you will save on new parts. The only thing that can suffer is the rubber gasket of the filter. Acid can damage it, and then replacement will be required. A sure sign of gasket damage is a leak from the filter after reinstallation.
• Try to carefully break the filter out of the snail and install a new one.. The plastic is quite brittle and can be cut with wire cutters and then twisted and cleaned out. Be careful not to damage the thread of the glass (snail). Otherwise, you will need to replace the entire snail, and not just the filter. With a damaged volute thread, the new drain filter will leak.
• Replace snail assembly with filter. Immediately, if you don’t want to mess around with unscrewing, or when you couldn’t carefully break the filter out. This will cost more than buying a gasket or a new filter trap. But replacement ensures that the filter does not leak after installation.

If you read the article and realized that pulling out the washing machine filter on your own is an impossible task for you, then entrust this work to the masters of RemBytTekh.

Competent service for washing machines in Moscow and Moscow region

The RemBytTekh service has been servicing and repairing all brands and types of automatic washing machines since 2003. We work at the client's home, we know how to properly remove the filter from the washing machine with horizontal and vertical loading. We serve brands: Samsung, Bosch, Electrolux, LG, Zanussi, Indesit, Atlant, Vestel, Kandy and many others.

See the table for service prices by brand.

* Fee for work. Replacement parts are paid extra if the service technician finds broken parts or damages them when removing the filter (of course, with your consent). The tariff and the price of spare parts are affected by the year with CMA releases, model and brand.

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We arrive at the request on the day of submission or the next. If you are not comfortable with service on these days, please provide another date.

Modern machines have very frequent breakdown, thread cutting on the plug in the engine oil pan, this is practically a consumable, which is recommended to be changed along with the next oil change.

But of course this also happens in older cars, due to the high mileage with the corresponding number of oil changes. So in my case it happened, for 300,000 km. with a replacement interval of approximately 7000 km., it turned out 42 times the culprit was unscrewed and twisted. And the fear also works so that on the go, God forbid, nothing gets out and does not lose oil with serious consequences, then constantly a little, but you tighten the tightening torque, that's another reason that just 40 times was enough. Another reason is the use of softer metal for the bolt, and stronger metal for the thread in the pallet, which is good, otherwise the repair would become longer and more expensive.

So once again twisting the cork, you notice that for a long time there is no locking-stopping of the puff, here it is desirable to understand this early and stop in time. Try to gently unscrew it with a stretch on yourself, but most likely it’s too late, the coils are licked and looped, there is nothing to push the bolt out.

Further, whoever is struggling with this problem, they weld the rod to the cork in order to pull it through the lever along with rotation, drill through it for the same purpose in order to hook and pull. But I was too lazy to do all this, so I came up with this method and everything turned out well.

From a strip 2 mm thick, in my case it turned out to be stainless steel, but it doesn’t matter, with the help of an angle grinder (Bulgarian), I cut out such a double chisel, the size of the cut depends on the size of your bolt, I sharpened the edges on a wedge. Then he hammered a couple of millimeters under the cork head (between the head and the gasket) with a hammer and turned it a little, about a quarter of a turn, with the key to unscrew it, then hammered it a little more and turned it a little, the main thing is not to rush so that the chisel does not jump out when turning and from the next After hammering, the chisel went completely into the body of the bolt and turning it with a key easily unscrewed the plug. It took 10 minutes for everything and manufacturing, and most importantly, I didn’t have to unwind the welding one.

This is what the removed cork and gasket look like after driving in the chisel puller.

Here you can see the damage to the threads in the pan, but these are mostly the remains of metal from cut turns from the bolt, but they were strongly pressed in and did not want to be removed, I didn’t have such a tap, like 14 * 1.5, but I found a suitable self-made bolt, from which he first made an analog of a tap with a grinder, drove the thread, with a magnet inserted into the hole he collected the chips that had fallen into the pan. And then, cutting off all the excess and welding the nut, I got a large bolt-nut, I made the gasket from some kind of aluminum sheet. I twisted it and drove off, but it will be necessary to remember to buy a factory plug at the next oil change!

PS. What’s bad, because of the plug, I had to drain the new oil so as not to throw it away, you must first wash the pan well and everything that can catch the oil jet, and also use a clean bucket or a cut 5 liter from under the water. The oil, even after just being in the engine for a couple of minutes, was already black (