In the article we will tell you how to choose the right place to install the dishwasher, in what order to connect it. After the dishwasher is delivered to your home, you can immediately connect and start it yourself, without overpaying for the services of a master.
How to install a dishwasher in the kitchen
There are two options for installing PMM: in a finished kitchen or in a pre-designated place in kitchen set. Dishwashers vary in type and dimensions:
- Compact. Holds from 3 to 5 sets of dishes. Dimensions 50x60x50 cm. Mounted on the countertop or under the sink.
- Narrow. Width 45 cm, capacity from 6 to 10 sets. It can be fully or partially built-in.
- Full size. Dimensions 65x65x90 cm, holds from 10 to 15 sets of dishes. Can be built-in or freestanding.
Usually, manufacturers in any kitchen set provide a place to place appliances. For this, the dimensions of a narrow dishwasher are taken, 5-10 cm are added to them from all sides. If your kit does not have a special cabinet, then it is better to choose a freestanding machine. You can install it in any convenient location, even between pedestals.
When choosing a free-standing PMM, it must be taken into account that appearance cabinets matched the design of the kitchen.
If you have prepared drawings in advance for placing a Samsung, Miele or other brand dishwasher, there will be no installation problems. Otherwise, for embedding, pick up a cabinet near the sink. Keep in mind that the distance from the PMM case to the back wall must be at least 5 cm for normal ventilation.
If you have a small family, and the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen does not allow you to install a full-size model, choose desktop version. You can put it under the sink, and the connection rules do not differ from other models.
- Before buying built-in appliances, measure the dimensions of the kitchen cabinet.
- Dishwasher legs can be adjusted in height. Use a level to level the machine. Some Hotpoint Ariston, Whirlpool models are very sensitive to tilt even as low as 2 degrees. This may affect their future work.
- Mount the machine near a sink. This will make it easier to connect the drain and water without having to extend the hoses. Experts say that lengthening the hoses can lead to leakage, as well as create a large load on the drain pump.
- When building into furniture, install a metal plate under the countertop to protect the wood from steam. In built-in models, the plate is included.
Take a look at the instruction manual. The order of installation and embedding of the dishwasher is indicated there. Included are templates for hanging the door.
- To connect the equipment to the network, a separate moisture-resistant socket is used. Do not connect with extension cords or tees.
Independent connection of the dishwasher
It is recommended to immediately install the machine on site, and then deal with the connection. But in the case of the built-in model, it is more convenient to first connect the hoses, and then mount the machine in a niche or cabinet. How to install an embedded PMM, read our separate article.
What you need to connect
Accessories:
- euro socket with a moisture-resistant housing and grounding;
- copper three-core cable (for organizing wiring);
- stabilizer;
- brass tee with stopcock;
- clutch;
- corner tap;
- extension cord and additional hose;
- siphon with two outlets (for connecting dishwasher and washing machine simultaneously);
- hose "Aquastop" (if not available);
- fum tape for sealing joints;
- filter;
- clamps, gaskets.
Tools:
- pliers;
- screwdriver;
- wrench;
- level.
Organization of electrical wiring
The dishwasher cord is specially made short. The European type plug can be connected to a special socket, which is located no higher than 45 cm from the floor.
Do-it-yourself replacement of the plug on the dishwasher will void the warranty.
How to organize the electrical connection correctly:
- Drill a channel in the wall, lay a copper wire.
- Arrange a moisture-resistant socket with grounding.
- Connect the outlet through a 16-amp difavtomat. For safety, it is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer. How to choose a dishwasher stabilizer, read in a separate article.
Plumbing work
You know how to install and connect the electrical part of the machine. Any model of PMM Korting, Hansa, Gorenje, Beko, Ikea, Ariston is connected to the water supply in the same way. by the most simple solution will be connected through a mixer. But if you install the equipment far from the sink, then the method of tapping into a cold water pipe is suitable.
To connect to water pipe:
- Using a grinder, cut a piece of pipe.
- Install the release clutch.
- Screw a tap with a shut-off valve onto the coupling.
- Connect the dishwasher hose to the faucet outlet.
Through mixer:
- Disconnect the mixer hose from the pipe outlet.
- Install brass tee.
- Connect a mixer to one outlet.
- To the other - a coarse filter and the end of the inlet hose.
Now take care of the water.
Drainage work
Where to connect the drain? There are also two options to choose from here:
- Directly to the sewer.
- through the siphon.
To connect to the sewer, it is enough to install an adapter on the outlet, to which you can connect the drain hose of the dishwasher and washing machine. Connections are carefully sealed.
When installing through a siphon:
- Remove the old and install a new siphon.
- Connect the dishwasher drain hose to the outlet.
- Be sure to fasten the connection with a clamp. With strong pressure, the hose can be torn from its place, which will lead to leakage.
Observe correct distance and bending the hose when organizing the drain. This will help avoid the siphon effect (see diagram below).
As you can see, you can organize the installation of PMM "Hans", "Burning" and other brands yourself. When the work is finished, run the test program without dishes to check the strength of the connections and the operation of the nodes. How to run your dishwasher for the first time, read the article.
The video will help you install the dishwasher yourself:
from 900 rub.
Diagnostics with repair - free of charge, without repair - 300 rubles.
Warranty 1.5 years. If the equipment fails again during this period, the master will perform its repeated repair free of charge.
The master leaves at a convenient time for the client, 7 days a week, including holidays
The exact cost will be announced BEFORE work begins.
Parts original, guaranteed
Stock . We have a cool promotion "For a photo of a breakdown - 500 rubles!"
Do you need to connect your dishwasher quickly and inexpensively? Contact Our Master! We work with Ariston, Siemens, Electrolux, Bosch, Indesit, Zanussi, Beko, AEG and other brands of equipment.
| Services list | Price |
|---|---|
| Connection to ready-made communications: | |
| from 900 rub. | |
| from 1100 rub. | |
| Full connection with preparation of communications: | |
| from 1800 rub. | |
| from 2000 rub. | |
| Connection with the preparation of plumbing communications | from 1300 rub. |
| Connection with the preparation of electrical communications | from 1300 rub. |
| Additional work: | |
| from 300 rub. | |
| from 200 rub. | |
| from 130 rub. | |
| from 100 rub. | |
| from 600 rubles | |
| from 350 rub. | |
| Departure of the master | For free* |
| Departure outside the Moscow Ring Road for more than 40 km (price per 1 km) | from 20 rub. |
* the departure of the master and the diagnosis of the malfunction are free of charge, but in case of refusal to repair, you will need to pay 300 rubles.
Stages of work
telephone consultation
Departure of a specialist for diagnostics and cost calculation
Carrying out work with the consent of the customer
Acceptance of work and settlement
Installing a dishwasher: types of work, materials used, price
During the installation of equipment, our specialists perform the following operations:
- base leveling. All existing floor defects should be compensated, because for correct operation the dishwasher requires a strictly horizontal surface;
- embedding. The master prepares the space for the equipment and makes the wiring of communications, while providing for the presence of gaps around the equipment;
- water supply. A stopcock is installed, if necessary, a drain tee is inserted and the hose that connects the machine to the pipe is extended;
- drain. At this stage, specialists connect the dishwasher to the sewer. It is possible to attach a special hose to a sink or bathtub;
- power supply. If possible, the specialist will use a dedicated line, as this allows you to protect equipment from short circuits and voltage surges.
At the request of the client, it is possible to install a system to protect against leaks. After completion of all operations, a test run is necessarily carried out to check the operability of the machine and the tightness of the connections.
When connecting a dishwasher, various materials, including a ball valve, a water filter, PVA electrical cables, an earthed socket and a switch.
We offer fixed price services:
- for standard connection (taking into account all necessary materials and details) - 2500 rubles;
- for a simplified installation (if there are ready-to-work - drain, water outlet, etc.) - 1000 rubles.
The nuances of installing and connecting the dishwasher
Built-in appliances can be installed simultaneously with the assembly of the kitchen or in an already used set. If the location of the dishwasher is not thought out at the project stage, the master may have some difficulties. You can simplify and reduce the cost of installation if you know about some of the intricacies of embedded technology:
- It is a mistake to leave the outlet and the water drain pipe right behind the future dishwasher. The technique completely occupies a standard depth module, so there should be nothing behind it. Communications should be left behind the next cabinet.
- No separate module is required for installation. Enough free space between two cabinets.
- Equipment of this type is attached to the countertop. For this reason, you should not plan to place it next to a sink that has a large drain. Difficulties are also caused by embedding in a column with other equipment.
- All dishwashing machines have a hinged door with a handle at the top. If you are buying a kitchen and plan to buy more appliances later, order a suitable facade.
- The well-known IKEA store does not have 45 cm wide modules. Therefore, the installation of small-sized equipment is carried out without problems in a 50 cm cabinet.
If you have not taken into account the listed nuances, this does not mean that installing a dishwasher in your kitchen is impossible, but the cost of solving a complex task may increase.
Installing a dishwasher yourself or with the help of a wizard?
To perform the installation of built-in appliances, you need to have the skills of a furniture assembler, plumber and electrician. If you have a similar experience, you can save on the services of a specialist. Otherwise, it is better to practice on a different, simpler technique.
Buying a dishwasher certain step towards modernization household. Gradually, technology ceases to be a luxury item and becomes an everyday assistant. It is all the more honorable not to trust the work of installing the dishwasher to other people, but to do it yourself, with your own hands. In this, a good informational help will be provided by the instructions that are attached to each product.
Features of built-in dishwashers
Among all models of machines, there is a separate built-in technique, which should be located inside kitchen furniture, and as conceived by the designers, it can subsequently have an external design under general style kitchen furniture, do not stand out and practically be invisible. The well-known Bosch company supplies the market with a large selection of these products for the needs of each consumer.
Built-in dishwashers are available in several sizes:
- Full size machine 80 cm high, 60 cm wide and 45 cm wide.
- The compact machine has a height and width of 45 cm.
For comfortable placement of equipment, its overall dimensions are somewhat smaller than those declared, and boxes for installation are made with a margin. According to the rules, back wall must be surrounded by a ventilation space of at least 5 cm.
In the future, it is planned to install a decorative panel on the door of the built-in dishwasher. For quality performance installation work many manufacturers, including Bosch and Siemens, supply a marking template in the kit. This template helps correctly, especially when doing do-it-yourself work, to position the holes on the decorative door.
The horizontal arrangement of equipment is provided by adjustable legs, which are equipped with almost all machines, of course, and such high-quality ones as Bosch and Siemens.
Connecting the dishwasher to the main communications
Do-it-yourself installation of a built-in dishwasher requires compliance with the special safety rules set out in the instructions. The built-in unit has a high power.
Electrical connection
To supply electricity, it is necessary to additionally install a European-style socket with grounding at a distance of 25-35 cm from the floor. The power supply to the outlet is carried out through a 16 A machine. When installing built-in dishwashers with your own hands, in no case should you independently extend the electrical cord or change the outlet to a regular one. This is not only dangerous, but also will deprive the buyer of the right to warranty service.
Water connection
A hose is supplied with the built-in machine, which is connected to the water supply system through a tee. It is allowed to connect to the water supply system directly from the sink tap. But it all looks somehow out of date and while washing dishes water faucet will be unavailable. Therefore, this option is not provided by the instructions.
When submitting to water supply network water of increased hardness, a filter should be installed in front of the built-in appliances. It will protect the heating element from salt deposits and extend its life. It is useful, especially when doing do-it-yourself work, to see in more detail how the built-in dishwasher is installed using the video.
Sewer connection
For a quality connection, you must independently replace the usual siphon under the sink with one that has an additional outlet. The drain hose included in the kit is attached to it. Drain hose should not be twisted, have creases, pass near hot surfaces.
When performing work independently, you must pay Special attention to prevent sink debris from entering the machine system and prevent odors by creating a water barrier. All this is detailed in the instructions that come with the product.
Dishwasher installation
Before you start independent work, pay attention to some of the subtleties of the process.
Helpful Hints:
- For steam protection inside furniture is advised to paste over with a protective coating.
- The installation of a 45 cm built-in dishwasher is carried out in the inner surface of the cabinet. It is necessary to take measures so that the furniture stands strictly horizontally, firmly and does not stagger.
- It is advisable not to place several devices side by side, but to push them apart at a distance of 45 cm.
- The height of the built-in dishwasher is carried out taking into account the fact that the worktop will subsequently be installed.
To close the equipment on the front panel is mounted decorative panel. The dishwasher comes with a template that can be used to make holes for covering the door.
Installing a built-in Bosch dishwasher on video will help you see the entire installation process in detail. Dishwasher Bosch- the most popular modern technology, has many functions. Therefore, installing a built-in Bosch dishwasher on video allows you to consider the installation process in all its details.
Built-in dishwashers on the market can solve all problems homework with just a few finger movements. To ensure long-term uninterrupted operation of equipment, it is necessary to install it correctly and efficiently and connect it to the main communications.
TO dishwashers for most people, the attitude is still quite wary - is it worth buying expensive equipment, if washing the dishes, in principle, is easy and by hand. However, if we recall the very recent past, then about the same thing was said about automatic “washers”, about food processors, even about TVs in the early days of remotes remote control, and now without it it is difficult to imagine a normal life. You get used to good and convenient quickly, so many owners who have already installed a dishwasher in their kitchen will never want to lose such a “convenience”.
Others are following suit, and dishwashers are increasingly becoming an attribute modern kitchen. However, this is not at all the kind of household appliances that you can simply unpack, plug into a power outlet and immediately start using it. In addition to the rather complex electromechanical “stuffing” and automation, such an apparatus, to a certain extent, of course, is also a plumbing fixture. Therefore, it is extremely important correct connection dishwasher to water supply and sewerage. "Independent activity" in this matter is not welcome - you will have to comply whole line certain requirements. Let's try to understand this in more detail.
It must be assumed that if the owners nevertheless decided to buy a dishwasher, then they have already thought out the place of its installation in advance. In general terms, it depends on which model is more to your taste - compact desktop or built-in kitchen furniture. Accordingly, there may be serious differences in the installation and connection of the device to communications.
In both cases, the installation site of the machine is tried to be as close as possible to the area of the kitchen sink. This is explained simply - it becomes possible to connect the device to engineering communications without resorting to the complicated procedure of tapping into pipes - it will be quite enough to have those connections and assemblies that provide water supply to the mixer and drain it from the sink into the sewer. Lengthening the regular hoses of the dishwasher, especially the drain hose, is not welcome, since the capabilities of the pumping pump are limited, and you should not overload it, so as not to cause rapid wear.
However, such placement is not at all a dogma - you can also place the dishwasher in a more convenient place, from the point of view of the owners, but in such a way that, within the radius of the length of the regular hoses, there is the possibility of tapping into the corresponding sewers (this example will also be considered in the publication ), or you will have to think over the laying of an additional section of such pipes specifically for the purpose of connecting the device.
Of course, a power supply line of the appropriate section must be connected to the future installation site of the dishwasher, and a separate outlet must be installed, always with a ground loop. The use of extension cords should be completely excluded. Water, high humidity and electricity - already quite a dangerous "neighborhood", so no connivance like: "Petya's connected like that - and it's okay" - absolutely unacceptable.
The electrical supply of the kitchen is a matter of great importance!
Distinctive features of any kitchen are not only high level humidity and constant use of water, but also, perhaps, the largest power consumption of electrical appliances installed in it. Refrigerator, microwave, washing machine, dishwasher, extractor hood, electric stove and an oven, and that's not counting the lighting and small appliances! How to properly organize the power supply of the kitchen is described in detail in the article on our portal dedicated to.
The place for installation must be prepared - there is an appropriate niche for tie-in the right sizes or free countertop space for desktop installation. The base must provide a reliable position of the device, in a strictly horizontal position, supported by all the racks in order to avoid play or excessive vibration. Each model of dishwasher has its own requirements for site preparation, the technical documentation describes the installation, the kit usually includes all the necessary fasteners.
There is one more nuance of preparing for the installation of the machine - it must be taken into account in advance. Many models on the back of the case have power cable and hose outlets offset to one side. Thus, the permissible distance to the connection points may be different to the left and right of the dishwasher. Usually this feature is also indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation.
Before undertaking an independent installation of a dishwasher, the owner must carefully assess his capabilities and skills. If there is any doubt about own forces, it is better to invite an experienced master plumber who has positive recommendations (a considerable number of frank "shabashniks" labor in this field). The fact is that a violation of the installation rules may well lead to the termination of the manufacturer's warranty. Often, in large salons-shops, branded installation is practiced, for a low price, and sometimes even completely free - as one of the ways to stimulate consumer activity. This question should be immediately clarified when buying.
In the event that such a service is not provided, and the call of the master is seen as essential extra costs, then nothing is impossible and self installation. And if you “bracket” the already mentioned power line and the features of installing the device in a niche, then the main stage of the process is the correct connection of the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage.
The sequence of steps, and is there always a need for a fixed connection
These steps can be carried out in any order. By and large, preparation for connection will bring more difficulties - installation of all the elements necessary for this. And, in fact, switching the hoses coming out of the dishwasher with water supply and sewerage will be the final step, which is performed almost simultaneously, along with the final installation of the appliance in place.
You can immediately make a reservation about one point. Desktop dishwashers, in principle, can sometimes do without a fixed connection to communications. In this case, the water supply hose is connected directly to the spout (there are special adapters for this), and the drain hose is lowered and fixed in the sink bowl.
Dishwasher
Sometimes such a scheme is presented almost as an outstanding advantage - they say, the owners have the opportunity to economically use the countertop space, taking it out of storage and installing the dishwasher only as needed.
Let me disagree with these "merits":
- First, it is unlikely that such owners will be found who will carry massive equipment back and forth. This is simply inconvenient, and it will not benefit an expensive device. And to use the dishwasher from time to time, "on holidays" - so why then buy it at all? She should become a faithful assistant in the kitchen, and not at all the subject of the "secret pride" of her owners.
- Secondly, from frequent connections and disconnections of the water supply hose, not a single connection will last long - neither threaded nor socketed. This is not very good for either - extra loads on the spout make it loose.
- Thirdly, the drain hose from the dishwasher lowered into the sink bowl conceals a certain danger. Careless movement, sudden pressure, childish prank - all this can lead to the hose jumping out of the sink with all the consequences (in literally words) consequences.
- And fourth, it's just inconvenient. Simplifying their work during the initial installation of the device, the owners greatly complicate their further operation. The operation of the dishwasher will require constant monitoring, and in addition, while the washing process is in progress, the kitchen sink is practically “paralyzed”, which may be required at this time for other needs.
So, the best solution would be fixed connection to water supply and sewerage, regardless of the type of model. Moreover, there is no tangible difference in the order of the work.
Connecting the dishwasher to the water supply
Let's start by connecting the water supply.
For starters, a little note. There is an opinion that in order to save money, it is more profitable to connect a dishwasher to a hot water supply pipe, they say, expensive electricity will not be spent on heating water to the temperature required by the washing program.
Indeed, some models of dishwashers support this option. Moreover, there are even machines that provide for connection to two mains at the same time - cold and hot water supply.
All this must be indicated in the product passport. Connecting the machine to hot water, if this possibility is not specified by the manufacturers, is prohibited. The electronics of the device may not understand this, and such amateur performance often ends with the “departure” of the programmed dishwashing algorithms.
But even if such an opportunity to choose between hot and cold water supply is provided, almost all masters unanimously recommend not to experiment, and limit themselves to the usual connection to cold water. There are a number of logical explanations for this.
- First, the quality hot water very often far from ideal.
- Secondly, it happens that the temperature of the water in the hot water supply exceeds the required heating level set for the dishwasher. It seems to be nothing terrible, but this again can “mislead” the software control unit of the device.
- Thirdly, it is no secret to anyone that problems with the supply of hot water happen many times more often than with cold water, and in the summer, during the period of repair and maintenance work in boiler rooms, there can be long shutdowns. It turns out that in such situations you will have to switch to manual dishwashing or urgently switch to cold feed. Isn't it too troublesome?
- And fourthly, in matters of economy - everything is also not so obvious. Modern dishwashers of class A and above are very efficient in both water and electricity, and should not “break a hole” in the budget due to electricity bills. On the other hand, if the apartment is equipped with water meters, then the consumption of water for washing dishes will have to be paid at the “hot” rate, which is also rather big.
Of course, it is up to the owner to decide, but good advice is to connect it to cold water.
Now, actually, about the connection itself. There may be several options here.
A. The simplest solution is when the location of the dishwasher and the length of its hoses make it possible to connect to the nozzle to which it is connected. flexible eyeliner going to the kitchen
To do this, all you need from the tools is an adjustable wrench, sealing winding, and you will need to purchase a special tee with a tap designed specifically for such purposes.
Such a tee has a ½ inch “female” thread for packing on the water supply pipe (pos. 1), from the opposite edge - a ½ inch “male” thread (pos. 2) for reconnecting the flexible mixer piping, that is, it provides a through passage of water. The side outlet has a ¾ inch thread (item 3) ideal for connecting dishwasher or washing machine hoses. The tap (pos. 4) makes it possible to open and close the water supply in this direction as needed.
The connection will not great work.
- The valve for the general supply of cold water to the apartment is closed. Next, you can open any faucet (best located closest to the floor level) to reset overpressure in cut off area home plumbing.
- Further, with the help of a wrench, the nut of the flexible connection of the mixer is unscrewed, the threaded part of the pipe is released. If necessary, the remnants of the old winding are removed from it.
- The next step is winding the sealing winding, in the direction of tightening the nut. For these purposes, an FUM tape can be used, but a more reliable connection is sealed with ordinary linen tow coated with a special Unipak type paste.
- A tee is tightly screwed onto the wound thread. When tightening, make sure that the side outlet with a tap is in a convenient position for connecting the dishwasher hose.
Here one can point out important point. Many modern dishwashers are equipped with an "aqua-stop" system, which has solenoid valve, which will instantly shut off the water supply to the hose if there are signs of leakage (pressure drop). The body of this valve is quite large in size, and is located exactly on the side of the hose that connects to the water pipe.
This means that both in preparation for work, and already specifically during the installation of the tee, it is necessary to take into account how this “aqua-stop” block will rise, whether there will be enough space for it.
- After the tee is installed, you can immediately install a flexible eyeliner in a new place kitchen faucet, if necessary, changing the rubber ring gasket.
- The tap on the tee is switched to the “closed” position, and after that you can open the general water supply - it will immediately be possible to check the assembly for leaks, and if necessary, tighten it.
- The last step is to screw on the plastic nut of the dishwasher hose. It has its own o-ring, and no rewinding is required. Twisting is done without the use of any tool - a fairly well-applied hand effort.
On this, in fact, the option of connecting to the water supply directly under the kitchen sink can be considered completed. But it is worth paying attention to one more nuance.
The use of a tee scheme will be convenient if one additional draw-off point is connected. However, in practice, the space under the sink is often much more loaded. For example, hoses of a washing machine and dishwasher can be connected here, drinking water is installed, and even more often it is connected instantaneous water heater(column) or boiler.
Under such conditions, the tee system does not justify itself - under the sink, a complex and heavy structure of tees and adapters is formed, surrounded by a "web" of hoses and flexible connections, which creates considerable difficulties both for control and for carrying out any preventive or repair work. It will be much more convenient to install a small collector from below, for 4 ÷ 5 outlets, connect it to a water pipe, and from it already conduct switching to all points of water intake.
This collector can be purchased from ready-made- metal or polypropylene. For those who have at their disposal a machine for welding PP pipes, it will not be difficult to make a collector very quickly desired configuration from polypropylene tees - this is often even more profitable.
Dishwasher
In this case, to connect the dishwasher, it is no longer a through tee that is purchased, but an adapter with a tap.
The collector is easy to securely fix on the wall surface (with clamps or dowels), and all branched switching in the space under the sink will take on an organized look. In addition, the interdependence of connected devices operating simultaneously will be reduced to a minimum - with a tee scheme, opening water at one draw-off point usually entails a pressure drop on others.
B. The second option - the length of the hoses to the sink is not enough, it is impractical or impossible to increase them due to the peculiarities of the arrangement of kitchen furniture, but a cold water pipe passes near the installation site of the dishwasher.
The principle is simple - it is necessary, after shutting off the water, to cut a small section of the pipe, and install a tee in its place. The faucet already mentioned above is packed to the perpendicular outlet of the tee, and the dishwasher hose is connected to it.
The execution of such an alteration depends on the material of the pipe.
- If this metal-plastic pipe- there is no difficulty. A fragment is cut out, and a tee with press fittings is put in its place, for which a set is enough to pack wrenches. Next - the installation of a crane with a conventional winding - and the node is ready to connect the device.
- It is not much more difficult to crash into a polypropylene pipe, however, this will already require a special welding machine. Of course, it is unprofitable to purchase it because of three or four joints, but usually such a device is easy to rent for a day or two, it is not so expensive.
welding machine for polypropylene pipes- a reliable home assistant.
To be honest, it never hurts to have your own inexpensive equipment for welding polypropylene pipes - it can bulge in various situations, it will allow you to easily and cheaply upgrade home communications. As it is right - in a special publication of our portal. And another article will help you learn quickly and easily.
When welding polypropylene on a previously assembled section, a certain backlash of the pipe is necessary in order to be able to bring mating parts into the soldering iron from both sides. This is not always possible, so it’s easier to resort to boiling out two “American” union nuts, and between them already mark a regular brass tee with a tap packed on it to connect the dishwasher hose.
fum tape
- The hardest thing will be if you need to crash into steel pipe.
- You can cut a section, cut the threads on the remaining ends, and mount a tee from it, either according to the principle of driving, or also using "American women". The disadvantage is the difficulty with threading, as a special tool is required.
- Another option is to install the so-called repair clip (shroud tee).
Such a product allows you to crash into a steel pipe in almost any convenient place on a straight section. The clip with rubber seals is installed on the pipe in the desired position, tightly tightened with bolts. Then the pipe wall is carefully drilled through the hole in the tee. Further, everything is simple - packing the tap and connecting the hose, as usual.
The method is quite simple, but, to be honest, it is not particularly praised. First, the pipe body is weakened. Secondly, cases of the beginning of leaks in this particular place are known, and it will be very difficult to eliminate them. And thirdly, a hole drilled in a pipe often becomes a weak spot in terms of clogging.
IN. Finally, the third option is when the dishwasher is located far from the cold water pipe.
To increase the length of the hoses is to increase the vulnerability of communications to possible leaks - any flexible connection is still less reliable than a stationary high-quality pipe. So, it is necessary to bring water to the machine.
Laying an additional section of the water supply to the installation site of the device is usually not difficult, and it will require little money. Another thing is how convenient it will be, and beautiful. If the pipe is completely hidden behind pieces of kitchen furniture, there are no questions.
But it is best, of course, to think through all the issues of the future installation in advance, that is, when installing home plumbing and sewerage, immediately provide for connection points for household appliances. Perfect option- this is a hidden pipe laying with the installation of water outlets on the walls in the right places.
Connecting the dishwasher to the sewer
You can find a lot of articles stating that connecting a dishwasher to a sewer is generally the simplest operation that does not require any rules to be followed. Like, the drainage hose of the device is installed through a sealing rubber sleeve into a 50 mm socket specially prepared for it sewer pipe- and this issue is resolved. Alas, not everything is so simple, and the followers of this technique may well encounter very unpleasant moments.
Firstly, a water seal must become a prerequisite, otherwise unpleasant odors from the sewer will penetrate through the hose into the dishwasher.
Secondly, care must be taken to prevent water from flowing back from the sewer into the machine. To do this, the upper loop of the drainage hose must be located at least 400÷500 mm from the floor level. Where did these values come from? Apparently, the level of the filled bathroom is taken into account - with a sharp release of water and some temporary problems with the patency of the sewer pipe, the water in it, according to the physical law of communicating vessels, will tend to rise to the general current level. Loop-shaped bend at the right height will not allow it to penetrate the dishwasher.
Third, the direct connection of the drain hose to the sewer pipe using a seal makes this connection practically airtight. Oddly enough, but in this case it is not at all a virtue. Ideally, the pressure in the sewer pipes should equalize with atmospheric pressure so that no vacuum is created. Otherwise, this may result in the so-called "siphon effect" - a massive discharge of water in one of the sections causes its spontaneous current to flow to others connected to it. This leads to the fact that the pipe itself begins to "suck" water out of the dishwasher. Such a phenomenon can cause unbalancing of automation, the appearance of software errors and even equipment failure. By the way, the opposite option is not completely excluded - throwing dirty drains into the car, the consequences of which you don’t even want to think about.
But on the other hand, a leaky connection between a hose and a pipe is a possibility of leakage and spread unpleasant odors. How to do the right thing.
There are several acceptable options:
- One of the simplest, cheapest and most effective is installation on kitchen sink drain siphon with a special pipe for connecting drainage hoses of household appliances.
As can be seen from the illustration, the siphon can also have two nozzles - if there is a need to connect both the washing and
The branch pipe usually ends with a conical fitting, the embossed, stepped surface of which ensures reliable fixation of the hose after tightening the clamp.
tap adapter
Such a connection of the drain hose, in principle, meets all the requirements listed above:
- The water seal from the spread of odors from the sewer side is provided by the very design of the kitchen siphon.
- The connection point is located at the top, the upper bend of the drainage channel is formed by itself.
- At the same time, the drain hose is not hermetically connected to the sewer pipe - it communicates with the atmosphere through the drain hole of the sink. That is, the siphon effect is completely eliminated.
- The above method is very good, but, alas, not always possible. For example, the sink is located out of reach of the dishwasher's drain hose, and a section of the sewer pipe has to be pulled. Another example is the design of the sink itself and its “branded” drain do not require any changes, and such a connection becomes impossible.
There is nothing to do, you have to connect to the sewer pipe. If its outlet is already occupied by a corrugated pipe from the sink - it's okay, you can put an "oblique" tee, reconnect the siphon, and use the second outlet for the dishwasher. And the connection here, whatever one may say, will still have to be made airtight, using a sealing rubber sleeve, otherwise an unpleasant odor cannot be avoided.
But what about the rest of the connection requirements?
The easiest way to solve the problem is to provide a water seal and ensure the required height of the loop. You can purchase a special polymer insert (they are often even included in the equipment supply), fix it in the intended place on the wall, fix the hose in it at the desired height. In this case, it is necessary to achieve such a position of the hose that a lower bend (like the letter S) is necessarily created - it will serve as a water seal.
But what about the potential threat of the "siphon effect"? There are also ready-made solutions for this.
- Installation of a simple "anti-siphon" valve on the hose.
This product is inexpensive and very easy to install. The hose is cut, and then connected by means of this valve, with tight fitting clamps. The disadvantage of the simplest device is a short service life, usually not exceeding six months. After that, you will have to purchase a new valve, since it is practically impossible to maintain.
- A more reasonable option is to purchase an anti-siphon valve made in the form of a loop. Not only does this immediately solve all the problems of proper placement of the hose - such devices are quite subject to regular cleaning, that is, they will last much longer.
A little more expensive and difficult to perform, but extremely convenient to use and meeting absolutely all requirements, the solution is to install a special wall-mounted siphon for a dishwasher (washing) machine. They are wall-mounted or hidden, of varying degrees of decorativeness, but they are united by the presence of all the necessary valve devices that ensure the comprehensive safety of connecting the device to the sewer.
The rear wide fitting is hermetically connected to a vertically positioned 50 mm sewer outlet, and the dishwasher drain hose is connected to the front fitting. In fact, it turns out a kind of analogue of a water outlet, only for the exact opposite purpose. They are usually replaced side by side, creating a special switching zone of the device.
Moreover, if you want to give such a connection node also an external "impressiveness", then you can purchase a whole cantilever structure, which includes and drain siphon with all valves, and a water outlet with a tap, and even an electrical outlet. Such devices are usually equipped with decorative facade plates - both beautifully and everything you need to connect is at a glance.
And, finally, we can mention another very interesting technological solution. Some manufacturers complete their models special valve, providing the necessary air gap to eliminate the negative impact from the sewer. The constructive approach itself is interesting - the valve cuts into the surface of the countertop or back horizontal bar kitchen sink.
Such a valve is placed in a place where it will not interfere, covered with a decorative cap from above. From time to time, it will require maintenance, but removing the cap and cleaning it will not be difficult.
So, we have considered various option connection of the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage. Some of them are quite simple, others will require certain knowledge and skills. However, none of them can be said to be completely inaccessible for independent performance.
In conclusion - a short video in which the master shares his experience of connecting a dishwasher. After receiving the information presented in the article, it will probably be interesting for the reader to look at and analyze some of the mistakes made by the installer. Blindly copying this is not necessary.
Video: dishwasher connection example
If you bought a built-in dishwasher, then you now face several difficult tasks. You have probably already met some of them before. Indeed, in many ways these household devices are similar - the same connection to the drain, connection to the mains. However, a new task appears before you - fastening, installing the facade to the dishwasher. Many people think that this is an occupation for furniture assemblers, however, it is not difficult to install a facade with your own hands. In this article we will tell you what can be useful for carrying out such work.
Facade assignments
The front of the dishwasher is a decorative panel element made of furniture materials. The main purpose of the facade is to hide the dishwasher in the kitchen furniture, making it part of the kitchen interior.
Dishwashers that are fully built-in are usually 450mm or 650mm deep. The hanging facade of such devices has the following advantages:
- no need to select suitable color machines, it fits perfectly into the interior, as it is a common part of the kitchen;
- control panel buttons are almost invisible, children will not randomly press them;
- has soundproofing qualities, the sound of the dishwasher is not so audible.
Dishwasher panels are made from a finely dispersed fraction, this is a medium-density fibreboard. The thickness of the board is, as a rule, standard 16 mm (furniture thickness) and is covered with a film that completely repeats the texture, texture and color of the furniture.
In some models of dishwashers, the open door can only be fixed after the appliance plate is installed.
Dishwasher Front Size
The dimensions of the side panels of the dishwashers naturally depend on the dimensions of the dishwashers. Basically, these are 450 mm machines. or 600 mm. The height of many dishwashers is 820 mm. However, there are compact models with a height of 600 mm. and even 500 mm. They are much cheaper, but their capacity is much less.
If we are talking about fitting the device into the interior, then the designers advise not to rush with the choice of kitchen fittings.
Oleg Volkov, interior designer, Moscow:
“Personally, I never thought that washing machines and dishwashers, microwaves and other Appliances, may look trite in their natural technological form. If the appliances are chosen with taste, the furniture is of high quality and pleasant, then the interior will be what you need, even if you can see the “naked” facades of washing machines, dishwashers, etc. However, oftentimes, people want a holistic design so that everything looks like one. A client of ours recently wanted a long marble, undulating countertop that curves across almost half of the kitchen to become a breakfast bar. It's great, what can I say, and the project turned out to be what we needed. But I was surprised by his question: Which dishwasher to choose? He wanted an Ariston, Hansa, Siemens or Bosch dishwasher, but he thought about the dimensions at the last moment. After all, he first assembled the kitchen, left a niche for the car and, of course, none of them fit in size. I had to cut the marble. I advise you to always select the equipment first, only then choose the kitchen. Otherwise, you are tormented by adjusting one for the other. All household appliances are fixed in size, and you can play with furniture fittings. Do everything in the right order."
Indeed, you need to understand that the device may not have a width of 60, but 59.1 cm. This will lead to backlash and gaps. Remember that the facade, which is made incorrectly, cannot be cut, because its ends are laminated and pasted over with a film.
The height of the side of the machine is no exception, it must also be carefully measured and calculated. It has a slightly higher height than the door, so in order for it to be flush with the kitchen panel, it is necessary to adjust not the facade, as many do, but the legs of the machine itself. It turns out that the height of the device depends on the width of the keypad of the machine, which is located on the door. Attaching such a front to the dishwasher is a little easier than in machines that require full integration.
Self-installation of facades
The front of the dishwasher can only be installed when the appliance is already connected to the water supply and drain system. into its assigned niche. For high-quality fastening of the facade, you will need:
- a long ruler or tape measure (a ruler is more suitable for accuracy);
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- fasteners;
- car door handle;
- front panel.
When setting ourselves the task of attaching the facade, it is necessary to mount the device to the side cabinets and from above, to the kitchen panel. Then, on the front of the facade you need to attach the handle for the door. Use a drill to create a hole for the screw. Drill with a thin screw and from the main side of the facade.
Then you need to calculate the distance at which the mounts are located facade panel. It is simply necessary that the front of the car and the fronts of the cabinets are on the same level. Using a ruler, evaluate the gap between the kitchen panel and the facades of the cabinets. After that, measure the distance between the top mount and the countertop, subtract one parameter from the other and the resulting figure will be the distance between the attachment point and the edge of the dishwasher front.
When all measurements are taken, you will need to get a template stencil from the kit and fix it from the inside of the front panel. This can be done with adhesive tape, it is better not to use double-sided tape, at first glance it will seem convenient, but after it there will be traces of the adhesive base.
The template will help you mark the correct points for future fastener holes. Drill carefully, it's better to drill less than risk getting through hole. Three-quarters of the thickness of the front panel is enough.
The process of fastening the facade is completed by fixing the panel with screws. If it so happened that the panel rested against the plinth, you will have to make a small gap in the plinth itself. The width of the gap will be the thickness of the panel (add 2 mm on top, this will not affect anything). If the facades are not flush, then increasing the basement clearance is the most correct and the best option problem solving. Especially if you can’t make a fit by adjusting the legs of the machine (naturally, because you fixed it to the side cabinets and countertop).
