Alignment of non-straight corners with an angular profile. We align the corners of the walls with our own hands. Alignment with a mark

Along the way overhaul the wall screed procedure is one of the most time-consuming due to the large area of \u200b\u200bthis surface. The most difficult stage of work is the corner sections: before you align the corners of the walls, you need to decide on the method and materials.

Why is it needed

A room with smooth walls and corners looks very nice: in this case, any subsequent design does not encounter any obstacles. On the other hand, even with a high-quality ceiling surface, beautiful furniture and floor covering crooked uneven corners will smear all the favorable impression. There is a common belief that such defects can be smoothed out by decorating with various elements: if this can work with walls, then it is almost impossible to hide uneven corners. In order not to puzzle over the elimination of such shortcomings at the final stage of finishing the premises, it is recommended that due attention be paid to this issue initially.

Despite the sufficient complexity of the corner alignment procedure, armed with clear instructions, even a beginner can implement it. The first step is to decide on the appropriate method, which is affected by the degree of curvature, the skill of the performer and some of the nuances of the room.

The main ways to align corners:

Plaster. This method is usually used when plastering the entire room, when the corners are aligned with the walls. It should be said right away that this method is quite laborious, requiring both strength and time. The base material used here is a standard cement-based stucco mortar. There is also an option with dry gypsum plasters, which are much more convenient to use, but much more expensive. Taking into account the fact that quite a lot of material is needed to finish all walls and corners, they usually try to get by with cheaper mixtures.

Plasterboard boards. In this case, the share of the so-called "wet" processes, which increases the speed of work and reduces the amount of dirt. This method involves creating ideally on top of a rough base flat surface from plasterboard. Their installation is carried out in two ways - by gluing or fixing on a pre-mounted frame. The second option is easier to implement, but it involves some loss of living space (the frame hides about 50 mm along each wall). As in the case of plaster, plasterboard corner sheathing is used in conjunction with the general alignment of the walls.

With a label. Most often, internal corners are aligned in this way. A mark is placed on one of the walls with a plumb or level, after which this area is filled with a plaster mixture (starting putty is usually used). A long spatula is used for leveling. After the mortar has set, the second wall of the corner is formed in a similar way. This method is usually used in situations of local repair, when it is not necessary to achieve the ideal angle of 90 degrees: the main thing is that the site looks visually even. In principle, if everything is in order with the eye, you can do without a plumb line.

Kontrashulz. This is the name of a special perforated corner, which is often used in painting and plastering works. It plays the role of a kind of beacon, installed on the very top of the corner (internal or external) along a plumb line: its sides set directions for plaster in both directions. In this case, it is most convenient to use gypsum starting mixtures as a material - compared to cement plaster, they are more elastic and set faster.

How to straighten corners

Quality levels

Getting started, the first step is to determine the required level of quality, which is affected by the type finishing:

The use of sophisticated patterned wallpapers, ceramic, clinker or porcelain stoneware tiles requires a very high quality base (the 90 degree angle must be perfectly observed). In this case, each of the stages of work must be checked by level.

If painting, decorative plaster, simple or liquid wallpaper will be used as the final design, alignment can only be carried out on a plane.

materials

As for the choice of material for plaster, then the following considerations are guided by:

For outdoor work or in rooms with a high level of humidity, it is recommended to use a cement, lime or polymer mortar. Gypsum plasters in such conditions will get wet and crumble.

Dry rooms, in addition to the above materials, can be finished with gypsum-based starting putties (plasters).

When buying ready-made mixtures, you need to focus only on well-known brands. The material should only be stored in dry rooms, therefore it is not recommended to purchase it in the market or in any other similar place. Usually, dry plaster packages indicate the approximate consumption of material per 1 m² of area, depending on the thickness of the applied layer. This makes it easier to calculate the required amount of material.

Tools

To align the corners, you need to prepare the following tools:

A container for preparing the solution (preferably plastic).
Building level and plumb.
Rule and set of spatulas.
Grater made of foam or wood.
Drill with mixing nozzle for mixing mortar.

Most often, the method of plastering on beacons is used for this, which is implemented in the following sequence of operations:

Foundation preparation. Both sides of the corner must be thoroughly cleaned of all remnants of the old finish - wallpaper, paint, old plaster or putty. In cases where the old plaster layer is very strong, it can be left. It is much more difficult with paint: it is very difficult to remove it, and it cannot be left. IN extreme cases a very durable painted surface is equipped with a notch (it is applied with a sharp hatchet or pick). If protruding elevations are found on the cleaned wall, they must be knocked down with a hammer and chisel.

Primer. The cleaned base is treated with deep penetration acrylic impregnation. This allows you to additionally fix the surface and remove dust residues. As a result, the level of adhesion of the base and plaster is significantly increased. Quite often, traces of mold and fungus are found on the corner sections of the wall (this is especially true for the inner corners near the window). In this case, along with the usual primer, a special antibacterial agent is used for processing.

Installation of beacons. Alignment of the walls is carried out using special plaster beacons. To do this, the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe base is divided into equal sections of 1-1.5 m (depending on the length of the rule) by vertical lines, along which guides will be installed in the future. The first plank is mounted indented from the corner by 10 cm: thick plaster or alabaster can be used to fix it. Having set this beacon at the desired height, they similarly mount another guide on the opposite side of the wall.

Installation of plaster beacons for the inner corner

It is important to clearly orient each of these planks vertically, for which you need a plumb line or level. To set intermediate beacons, 2 nails are driven into the fixed planks (top and bottom). Also, for fixing beacons, you can use a plaster mixture, as in the image above. By pulling a fishing line or cord between the nails, they get the necessary guidelines for the rest of the beacons. Since the plastering of the corners is usually carried out with a similar procedure on the walls, the beacons are installed on the entire wall area. Upon completion of the installation, the nails and fishing line must be removed.

Solution preparation. It is easiest to mix ready-made dry mixes: in this case, you just need to follow the proportions of water and powder indicated on the package. If the instructions are missing (or printed on foreign language) the following order is applied: first, pour into the container clean water, and then, creating a small whirlpool with your hand, pour the dry mixture (it should completely cover the water). Stirring with a mixer is carried out in two stages: after general mixing, having achieved the homogeneity of the solution, pause for 4-5 minutes, after which the final short kneading is carried out.

The situation is more complicated with cement or lime plaster: here you need to independently prepare a dry mixture of sand and cement (or lime) in the required proportions, and then carry out general mixing with water. Regardless of the type of solution used, it is not recommended to prepare too large portions (especially if the work is carried out by a beginner). It is better to start with small batches, increasing their volume as dexterity develops.

Corner alignment. It is more convenient to first align one plane of the angle, and after it has set, the second. This is due to the fact that adjacent walls located in close proximity cannot be properly designed, because. the tool will leave grooves on the wet surface of the opposite plane. The finished solution is first thrown onto one of the walls in the intervals between the beacons, after which, using a rule moving along the guides from bottom to top, they are evenly laid on the surface. Having designed one side in this way, they pause for its setting (about 30 minutes), after which they begin to level the second side. In those cases when the walls are aligned with the corners, there is no need for such pauses: starting from the corner, they plaster the whole room in a circle.

Alignment of the inner corner of the wall: first, the first wall is plastered, after it has set, the second wall is plastered

If there is a need to achieve an ideal angle of 90 degrees, use a special corner spatula.

Sometimes it is not possible to completely level the surface in one go due to too large irregularities, which involves applying another plaster layer. To do this, it is advisable to wait for the complete drying of the starting plaster (meaning not setting, namely complete drying over the entire thickness of the plaque). If you apply a second layer on a wet base, then the moisture clogged inside will provoke the appearance of pockets inside the finish.

Other Ways to Align an Inner Corner

If you need to align inner corner locally, without processing all the walls, then there is no need to set beacons for this. the main task in such a situation, avoid a height difference between the finish and the rest of the base. There is no need to talk about the ideal observance of the angle of 90 degrees. All that can be offered here is to make the walls visually even by filling in the visible depressions and eliminating the elevations. In this case, the so-called. the "mark" method, which is implemented with a wide spatula and gypsum plaster.

This will require the so-called. "Kontrashultz" - a perforated corner made of aluminum, equipped with a serpentine mesh around the edges. In addition to the convenience of the alignment procedure, countershultz further creates additional protection for the outer corner, which more often than other sections of the wall undergoes mechanical stress. If not accepted additional measures, it can even fall off with a strong impact.

Outside corner alignment procedure description:

Preparation. As in the case of the internal corner, here you will need to remove all old finish and knock down all detected bulges of concrete. After that the cleaned base is primed .

Corner installation. This is the most responsible operation, on the correctness of which the quality of the entire finish depends. The complexity of the procedure is that the countershults must be set both vertically and along the height of the leveling layer. It is most convenient to put it on alabaster, checking the verticality of the installation by a plumb line. As for the fixation height, it is determined visually: it is desirable that the thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 10 mm.

Installing the countershoulder

Solution laying. Alignment is convenient to start from the bottom of the corner, immediately on both sides (to avoid movement of the counter-shoulder, it can be additionally screwed with self-tapping screws). The prepared plaster mixture (the kneading procedure was described in the previous part) is thrown onto the wall, and then pulled together with a rule or a wide spatula. You can also apply the solution directly to the tool and tighten the wall from the bottom to the top. There is no fundamental difference here, it all depends on individual preferences. Having plastered the bottom on one side, they immediately go to the second. Excess mortar is usually concentrated at the top of the corner: they are removed with a spatula and used for further finishing. Having finished the plaster in the lower part of the corner, they move to the upper one: for this you need a convenient construction goat of a suitable height.

The final stage. Having finished the entire corner, it is allowed to dry, after which another layer is allowed to be applied for the final alignment of minor flaws. In principle, finishing putty is intended for solving such problems.

You can also watch a video about installing paint corners:

About leveling walls with drywall

Gypsum boards can be used for both internal and external corners. As in the case of beacon plastering, this method is usually used to completely level all walls. There are also situations when one of the walls is sewn up with drywall (for example, near a window). In any case, the corners obtained in this way must be finalized with plaster or putty. Since the common plane is already set by the sheets, it will only be necessary to smooth the transitions from one side to the other. The seams are pre-sealed with a special Fugenfüller mixture and reinforced with a sickle mesh. In the case of an outside corner, it is recommended to use the familiar perforated corner. Gypsum putty is used as a leveling solution, because. there is no need for a particularly thick layer.

Finishing

When performing leveling work on corner sections, a certain diligence and diligence will be required: the better this work is done, the less hassle will be at the finishing stage. Subsequent construction operations depend on what material is supposed to decorate the wall. Under wallpaper and painting, the surface leveled with the starting mixture is additionally puttied to make the base as smooth as possible. tiling and decorative plaster can be carried out without putty.

Many, wanting to save money, take on repairs in the apartment, including plastering and Finishing work on one's own. Learn to plaster and putty flat wall Really easy and for everyone. But the alignment of the inner corner of the room causes difficulty for many. Let's look at how to make the inner corners even on your own.

Why are corners crooked?

If an angle needs to be aligned, it is logical to assume that it is initially curved. What is a right angle, everyone remembers from school, but how to explain the crooked angle from the point of view of our apartment? Each wall of the room forms a strictly vertical plane. Naturally, the line of intersection of these planes will be vertical, that is, parallel to the plumb line. This is ideal, but in reality one of the adjacent walls (or even both!) May have a deviation from the vertical.

A slight deviation in the middle can be almost imperceptible, but the junction of such non-vertical walls has a treacherous “blockage”, which immediately catches the eye and spoils the whole impression of the repair. How to correct the situation, how to make the inner corners even?

Aligning the corners

Having figured out the origins of the problem, we have already shown ourselves the way to solve it: it is necessary that the planes of the walls be perfectly vertical at the point of their intersection. How can this be achieved? Let's say right away, if your joint is "littered" by a centimeter or more (and this is not at all uncommon for mass construction), then therapeutic methods will not help you, the walls will have to be re-plastered again. The good news is that the quality of the plaster with a similar approach to work will also most likely be so-so, it will not be difficult to beat it off.

But what to do if the walls are plastered to the conscience, but the joint still “falls” a little? Masters offer various ways varying degrees of complexity. So, for example, it is proposed to use a perforated corner profile or a building square, etc. But today you have the opportunity to get acquainted with a completely in a simple way, which does not require a lot of time and, most importantly, special skills.

For this we need:

finishing putty;
plaster;
angle spatula (trowel);
aluminum U-shaped profile (CD or UD);
stepladder;
building level.

Technology

Now, actually, about how to align the inner corners using the above props. To do this, as you can see, is not difficult at all.

Step-by-step instructions for processing wall joints look like this:

If during the repair process drywall was finished, you probably still have a U-shaped aluminum profile. Moreover, the section of the profile will not work, you need a whole one in the entire height of the wall. If this is not the case, it is easy to purchase at any hardware store.

We start at the top of the wall. We take a profile and an angular spatula, we climb onto a stepladder. We apply the U-shaped profile with the “legs” of the letter P to ourselves, with the “crossbar” to the wall at such a distance from the corner that the spatula rests on the profile with one side and touches the adjacent wall with the other. Important point: the spatula must exactly touch the wall, moving between the wall and the profile without difficulty.

We fix the upper end of the profile in this position with a self-tapping screw or dowel.

Thus, the profile is fixed at one end, while the other moves freely. Our task now is to fix the second edge of the profile so that its lateral side strictly corresponds to the vertical. You can rely on your eye or use a plumb line, but based on experience, “catching a millimeter” by eye is not recommended. Remember that even a meager "blockage" of the corner immediately catches the eye. Therefore, we use the building level.

It is best to use a long two-meter level, it will be more accurate. We apply the level to the profile and orient the latter in vertical plane, after which we fix the second end of the profile. Thus, we got a vertical guide that will give us the direction of the corner.

Now we need a very thick one. To do this, add a gypsum mixture to the finishing putty. After that, you need to act quickly - the resulting composition seizes literally before our eyes. Plentifully cover the joint with a thick mixture.

Now the most crucial moment: we take an angled spatula and “pull out” the mixture, while the spatula should not rest against the wall, but against the guide, which sets the plane for us. If everything is done correctly, one pass is enough to get a perfectly even joint.

Then we remove the guide () and with the usual finishing putty we equalize the walls with the resulting angle. As you can see, nothing complicated!

Even expensive finishes will look awkward at crooked corners. On the contrary, perfectly even corners and walls will complete any interior. Aligning them is not difficult, and with a skillful approach, it will not take too much time.

Surface preparation

The first step is to tap all suspicious places with a hammer. If the plaster barely holds, it can collapse at any time, so all loosely fixed layers should be removed. Large gaps must be widened and then cleaned with a brush or brush from dust and small plaster residues.

For the convenience of laying the plaster, the slots expand

Old paint can be cleaned off with a grinder. Too large nodules are more convenient to remove with a perforator. If these influxes are left, then you will have to focus on their height, and you will have to apply plaster in a very large layer. In order for it to stick perfectly, the walls must be cleaned of dust and prime.

It is worth measuring the walls with a building level. If the differences are too big (more than 4 cm), it is better to align the walls with drywall. Otherwise, the cost of plastering will be too high.

It is more convenient to remove old paint with a grinder

Alignment of internal corners

1. Before you remove the corner, you should align the adjacent walls. With all four corners aligned, work in progress round. First, one of the walls is leveled, then the corner, then the next wall, and so on. With this method, the probability of damaging the drying plaster is minimal.

2. If the height differences are large enough, it is better to use lighthouses. To set them at a distance of 20 cm from the corner, a straight horizontal line is drawn. Overlaid along it "brands": slaps of thick mortar, which are applied every 30 cm.

Applying plaster "marks"

3. Next, it is pressed into them lighthouse: a strip of plastic or metal with holes for squeezing out the solution. Beacon indentation depth is checked building level. If the applied solution is not enough for leveling, the plaster under the beacons is reported in such a way as to achieve perfect leveling.

Installation of beacons

4. The distance between adjacent beacons must be equal to the width rules: a tool for leveling plaster in the form of a trapezoid metal strip 1-3 m long.

5. For additional control, a nylon thread can be pulled along the top and bottom of the wall. It is attached to dowels screwed into adjacent corners. The depth of indentation of the beacon is adjusted so that the thread only slightly touches its surface.

Thread Alignment

6. After the beacons dry, plaster is laid between them and leveled using the rule.

Leveling the wall with a plaster rule

7. It will not work to equalize large differences the first time: the mixture must be applied several times.

Advice. At one time, you can apply only a couple of centimeters of the solution: if you build up too much layer after drying, it will crack. To prevent cracking, layers that are too thick can be tied together with reinforced mesh, which is pressed into the solution.

plaster mesh

8. In too difficult places between the main beacons, you can install intermediate. Often installed beacons will make it easier to work with a rule that is too long.

9. To make it easier to align the corners, you can use plaster corner profile. It is a strip of metal or durable plastic bent at an angle of 90 °, on both sides of which a reinforced mesh can be fixed. After leveling the first wall, the corner is laid required amount plaster, and then a profile is pressed into it. After checking the level, its excess is removed with a spatula.

Corner profile with mesh

10. You can perfectly align the corner with the help of a special construction tool- Angle spatula.

Leveling with an angled trowel

11. After plastering the first wall, wait for it to dry completely. Further, with the help of beacons, the second wall is leveled.

Self-tapping screws as plaster beacons

1. When aligning walls and corners in the kitchen, in the bathroom, the installation of beacons can be problematic due to a large number pipes. In this case most of walls are leveled using conventional beacons, and in difficult areas they are used instead self-tapping screws, which are superimposed "brands"(slaps solution).

2. Just like when installing conventional beacons, a horizontal line, along which self-tapping beacons are attached.

3. Since it will be difficult to adjust the depth of their screwing using a level due to protruding pipes, they use plumb lines. To do this, a dowel is screwed to the ceiling at a minimum distance from the wall, on which a thread with a load is suspended, which will serve as a guide.

4. The self-tapping screw should be adjusted so that its head only slightly touches the plumb line.

Exposure of self-tapping beacons

Advice. Because metal self-tapping screw may rust over time, and the rust will show through the wallpaper or other finishing material, after the plaster has dried, it is better to carefully unscrew it.

Alignment of external corners

External slopes are easier to level. For these purposes, apply plaster perforated corners from metal or plastic. They will not only help to perfectly align the corners, but also protect them from destruction upon impact.

The corner is fixed with putty, into which it is pressed, and then leveled by level. Excess putty is removed with a spatula. Next, the wall itself is plastered, while the corner is used as a beacon.

Leveling with corners

Angle skew too big

To equalize too large distortions, a different method is used. On one side, the walls are leveled lighthouses, from which the wall is aligned towards the corner. After the first wall has completely dried, the second one is similarly leveled. Aligned in level, both walls form a perfect angle. The final alignment is done with angle trowel.

Leveling with an angled trowel

No matter how expensive the repair is, no matter how neat the whitewashing of the walls is, and no matter how expensive the wallpaper is - the whole view of the completed, in fact, repair can be spoiled by one small detail - carelessly decorated or crooked corners. The corners in the room should simply be even and resemble a thread stretched tightly from the ceiling to the floor. In this case, small irregularities and flaws in the walls themselves will not be evident.

Causes of uneven corners

Aligning the corners in the room until the effect of a stretched thread in the corners of the room is difficult and at the same time quite simple even with your own hands. However, the first step is to find out for what reason the corners in the room are not too even. There may be several of them: from poor-quality plaster, in which there is much more sand than the technology requires, to a crooked wall. Of course, all such flaws in construction and previous repairs will have to be corrected, and in different occasions and act differently.

So, first you need to find out why, in fact, the corners in the room turned out to be crooked. The degree of deviation of the wall from the vertical can be easily found by attaching a long building level to it or by making a simple plumb line from a long string and a fishing sinker, a large nut or something like that. Just attach the free end of the thread to the corner between the wall and the ceiling, and gradually lower the end with the load to the floor. When the load lies freely on the floor, you can simply measure the distance from it to the corner between the wall and the floor.

If the wall is tilted to the other side, and the load from the corner between the wall and the ceiling does not fall, but slides along the wall, you need to lower it almost to the floor and, raising the free end of the twine to the ceiling, make sure that the load is right in the corner between the wall and floor, then measure the distance from the twine to the corner between the wall and the ceiling.

If in both cases the distance is more than two centimeters, the slope of the wall is too strong to handle with your own hands. Moreover, if, in addition to the slope of the wall, you are also dealing with poor-quality old plaster, which is easier to completely remove than trying to apply another layer on top of a layer crumbling from any touch, high-quality plaster or putty. The easiest way in such cases is to completely clean the walls of old plaster and plaster on a new one, or use drywall.
In the same way, with the help of a do-it-yourself plumb line, you can determine in which direction and how much the corner of the room is littered.

If the slope of the wall is not very strong, it is quite possible to cope with it yourself, without resorting to building plasterboard structures around the walls. In this case, you will need:

dry plaster mix when it comes to arranging a new room, or you decide to completely renovate the room and remove the old plaster. Experts recommend using gypsum plaster mixtures in such cases. They grab faster and slip less. Their use can significantly reduce the time of work;
start and finish putty. The amount of material directly depends on the degree of curvature of the walls;
primer;
brush and roller for applying a primer;
a drill with a mixer and a container for mixing a solution of plaster and putty;
rule;
perforated corner (contrashultz). You can buy metal perforated corners or made of plastic. Such corners make the job very easy. An additional plus we can assume that even if such a corner cannot be set strictly vertically, the entire angle will still be even;
building level (long water or laser), plumb;
construction spatulas (one at least 45 cm wide, the other narrow - about 10 cm).

Inner corner

We omit the sequence of surface preparation. The angle with which the work will be carried out must be carefully primed, this will increase adhesion. The putty solution for the corner should be thicker than usual.

This solution fills the corner. Putty should be applied without sparing, it is possible - at intervals of 15-20 cm. Next, we apply a perforated corner pre-cut along the length to this putty and press it into the putty, but not evenly. If the corner collapses into the room, then as much as possible, almost to the very wall, the upper part of the perforated corner should be pressed in, and if the corner collapses outwards, then, on the contrary, press the lower part of the counter-shoulder into the corner. The opposite corner of the perforated corner can be aligned with a long building level. You can also use a plumb line, but with it the process will take a little longer if you do the work yourself and alone.

After the corner is fixed on the putty in a vertical position, the excess putty is carefully removed so as not to dislodge it and left to dry for a day.

The perforated corner is also good in that it does not have to be solid to align the corner. The corner in the room can be completely leveled with the help of pieces of a perforated corner, overlapping each other. This will allow you to work with virtually no residues, and the places where the corner overlaps will be securely hidden under the layer. finishing putty.
The next day, it remains only to level the surface of the perforated corner and the entire wall. This can be easily done with a wide spatula and a starting putty solution of normal density. With a narrow spatula, the solution is applied to the blade of a wide spatula over its entire width.

Then one end of the spatula rests on the perforated corner, the other on the wall, and in this way the difference is leveled first on one side of the corner, then on the other.
If the difference is large, it is unlikely that it will be possible to level the surfaces the first time. But then small flaws can be corrected with a finishing putty solution.

outside corner

The outer corner is much easier to align than the inner. There is no need for such painstaking work. You will need the same tools and materials as for leveling internal corners. And the process itself differs, by and large, only in that the perforated corner is applied to the surface in reverse.

If there is no time to wait until the putty in the corner dries, you can replace it with a special drywall adhesive. It dries pretty quickly and within an hour after the perforated corner is fixed, the surfaces can be leveled. If, however, to level the surfaces, you also use not a mixture of starting putty, but glue for drywall, you can easily put the corners in the room in order in one day of work.

In this case, you can level the walls with a dry gypsum plaster- drywall.
Drywall sheets are attached around the wall to a special frame made of metal profile or on the wall itself using dowels or a special adhesive solution for drywall, which we talked about above. In fact, a new thin wall of drywall sheets is built near the curved wall, under which all the flaws in the construction and previous repairs are hidden.
This method of leveling corners and walls has certain advantages over the leveling method using putty:

before installing drywall metal carcass no removal of old wallpaper, whitewash or plaster is required. All this will be safely hidden under sheets of drywall;
the whole process is relatively clean: no need to mix putty solutions;
it is possible to apply a layer of finishing putty on drywall immediately after completion of installation work, and a layer of starting putty will always need to be pre-dryed;
if the wall cladding with drywall is done correctly, additional adjustment of the corners of the room is no longer required. The inner corners can be puttied with a reinforcing tape, and the same perforated corner is useful for the outer corners.

This method also has disadvantages:

drywall is a material that absorbs moisture well. Therefore, it should not be used in rooms with high humidity, where over time it will lose its properties, and the entire wall will noticeably warp again.
drywall sheets are a relatively fragile material; the coating from it is easily susceptible to mechanical damage.

For particularly difficult cases, a combined method can be used, which is as follows: drywall sheets are mounted on a particularly noticeably littered part of the wall, and after the glue has set, the difference with the corners and the rest of the wall can be leveled with a starting putty and then finished.

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Smooth walls and corners are the key to a successful and beautiful design in the room. Even if you have high quality and beautiful ceiling, furniture and parquet, then all this will look ridiculous against the backdrop of crooked corners and walls. There are even individuals who think that some imperfections can be covered with decorative elements, but how to hide uneven corners in a room? So that after the repair there are no such problems, it should be at the initial stage of work Special attention pay . In order for the alignment of the corners of the walls to be as accurate as possible, you need to have certain skills, moreover, such a process takes a lot of time. You can do such laborious and painstaking work with your own hands, but it is better to entrust it to professionals in this field.

Alignment Methods

Many experts agree that leveling corners is not an easy task. Although, if you follow certain instructions and have the right materials and a set of tools, then this is not as difficult as it seems. This article will cover various methods wall alignment, namely:

using drywall;
with plaster;
with perforated aluminum corner(contrashultsa);
using a mark that is applied by a level or plumb line.

align the walls with an aluminum profiled corner

Surface preparation

Before leveling the corners, you first need to prepare the walls:

Remove old coatings (whitewash, wallpaper), dismantle ceramic tiles.
Prime the surface.
Before working with plaster cement mortars, the corners are cleaned of dust, and before applying the plaster, also moisten them with water.

Plaster leveling

Many specialists can easily align the corners if the walls are plastered in the same plane according to the level. Consider the main stages of work:

the surface is cleaned first;
thanks to plaster beacons, a vertical level is established on the entire surface of the wall;
then the plastering of the walls is carried out directly according to the level of the lighthouses;
walls are plastered.

leveling the corner with putty

To level the walls, special building plaster beacons are used, which are fixed on the wall with plaster mortar, and no equipment and fasteners are used. The wall must be divided by lines into even vertical sections (1-1.5 meters).

The lighthouse must first be adjusted in height and plastered on it in some places, thanks to which it will stick to the wall. The first beacon should be at a distance of 10 cm from the corner, in the opposite corner the beacon is installed at the same distance. Using a level or plumb line, the vertical level of each beacon is checked. Further, a nail is driven into the holes of each of the beacons at the bottom and at the top into the solution on which they are held. Between the beacons, a cord is stretched along these nails at the bottom and at the top, so that intermediate beacons can be set at the level of the extreme beacons. After installing intermediate beacons, nails and cord are removed.

alternately plaster the walls to align the corners

In order for the corner to look even, one wall is first plastered, after which it is necessary to wait until the plaster has completely dried. Next, special beacons are installed on the second wall according to the level and a plaster layer is also applied over them. Even if minor errors are visible, they will be hidden by a layer of putty. After plastering the walls, an angle is formed, which in the future will need to be slightly corrected with putty.

It is much more difficult to align the corners in the case when your plans do not include full plastering of the walls. As a general rule, leveling inside corners is a lot more painstaking work compared to outside corners. Indeed, when leveling the outer corners, it is possible to plaster 2 walls at once, in the case of an inner corner, you need to wait for the complete drying of one wall and then switch to the second. Experts recommend using a gypsum plaster mixture, as it does not slip and sets faster, which reduces the time of work.

Let's get acquainted with the materials and tools that you need to have:

plumb, water or laser level;
roller with brush for primer;
mixer and drill;
a container in which the plaster mixture will be mixed;
rule;
primer;
perforated corners;
plaster mixture (dry);
narrow and wide spatula;
putty.

Aligning the corners of the walls with drywall

Very often, builders level walls and corners with dry plaster, which is called "drywall". If you don’t have enough money or desire to align the walls as a whole, then you can align at least the corners. In other words, you need to display the corner visually so that there is no wave along the height of the corner.

Drywall is gypsum dry plaster. Drywall sheets are fixed on the wall or frame with dowels and an adhesive mixture. This type of corner alignment in comparison with the “wet” method (plaster) has several advantages:

no need to mix plaster solutions;
when installing the GKL on the frame, you do not need to rip off the whitewash or old wallpaper;
GKL can be puttied immediately after installation, and plaster, for example, must dry beforehand.

leveling corners with drywall

However, there are the following disadvantages of this method:

It is not recommended to use this method in rooms where high level humidity;
drywall is a fragile material and not resistant to damage (mechanical);

If the installation of drywall is done in accordance with all the rules, then it is not necessary to adjust the corners.

Internal corners are puttied using reinforcing tape. In order to trim the outer corners, it is necessary to install special perforated corners and putty them on top.

If your walls are heavily littered, then you will need to apply a thick layer of plaster accordingly. In this case, it is desirable to use a combined method. For example, drywall can be glued to a heavily littered wall. When the glue sets, the corners and the wall will need to be leveled with a layer of putty.

Tools and materials you need to have:

the required number of drywall sheets;
level (water level), which will level the surface;
spatula, for applying putty to the joints of drywall sheets;
tape measure, which measures the dimensions of drywall sheets;
clerical knife, which will cut sheets of drywall;
gypsum mounting adhesive for fixing plasterboard to the wall.

When gluing the GKL on the wall, it is not necessary to allow cruciform seams at the junctions. While the glue has not hardened, you can align the sheets with rubber mallet and level (water level).

Alignment with a mark

This alignment (by mark) is done with a level or plumb line and is great for inside corners.

align the inner corner with a level

Consider the algorithm of actions:

With the help of a plumb line or level, we put a mark on one of the walls.
We prepare the mixture.
According to the mark with a plaster mixture, we fill the corner.
Smooth out the mixture with a wide spatula.
When the plaster dries, you can repeat the above steps on the second wall.

It is rather difficult to make a strictly right angle, since opposite walls can differ in length by 5-10 cm, and in order for the room to become strictly rectangular, a significant amount of putty must be used. High precision is needed when preparing walls and corners for laying tiles. In this case, it is necessary that the corners are strictly vertical in level.

Alignment using countershulz

Contrashultz is a special aluminum perforated corner designed to align corners. Use it to align both external and internal corners. Such a corner must be fixed to the outer corners in order to protect them from mechanical damage. Even when the corner is not set strictly vertically, the corner as a whole will turn out to be even without any bends.

Stages of work:

We cut the corners to the required length.
We prepare the plaster mix.
The mixture is applied to the corner. If the inner corner is leveled, then it must be completely filled with the mixture. On outer corner the mixture is applied partially.
We carry out the installation of the counter-shoulder (corner), while its vertical level is checked by a level.
Excess plaster mixture is carefully removed.

When the corners are already installed, then you need to align their edges with the wall.

To avoid sudden drops, the plaster mixture should be applied approximately 50-80 cm from the corner. Then smooth the mixture with a wide spatula until the surface is smooth.

When the plaster layer dries, it must be treated with a primer. In the future, alignment is carried out using putty, which is able to hide minor irregularities and defects.