How to create a perfectly flat wall for painting. How to make the surface of papier mache products smooth How to make the surface even

Concrete screed is the most famous and truly high-quality way of arranging floor bases. It is very popular among home craftsmen. We will tell you about all the varieties and features of the screed, giving Special attention technology for its implementation.

Screeds - for what tasks are they used?

Concrete floor screed (BSP) is in demand both in industrial and private construction. It guarantees a perfectly aligned base - durable, resistant to mechanical stress and destruction, high-strength, which is suitable for mounting a variety of finish coatings. Moreover, the screed in an apartment or a private house is easy to do by yourself. The technology of its filling is accessible and understandable. For these reasons, BSP is so popular among craftsmen who are accustomed to making home repair with your own hands.

The screed is poured for different purposes. Most often it is used for high-quality leveling of the floor surface, creating a certain slope, masking engineering networks laid across the floor. BSP is usually divided into multi-layer and single-layer. The first are poured not at once, but in several steps. In such situations, the lower layer of the mixture plays the role of the base, and the upper layer is responsible for the formation of a perfectly flat surface. Single-layer screeds are poured immediately over the entire treated area. With this approach, it is impossible to get a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, single-layer BSPs are usually used to perform work in non-residential (utility, utility) and industrial premises.

Screeds can be homogeneous or include special. additives. The latter are often used:

Expanded clay. This additive provides an increase in the heat-shielding potential of the concrete mortar and allows you to create thicker screeds.
Styrofoam crumb. It also increases the thermal insulation of the floor.
Fiber fibers. They significantly increase the resistance of the base to bending, stretching and mechanical stress. Compositions with fiber are used in the arrangement of underfloor heating systems.

Next moment. Concrete screeds do semi-dry and wet technology. They have certain differences. Semi-dry technique involves the use of expanded clay gravel or other bulk material. It must be prepared, laid on the surface to be treated, rammed, leveled according to a special scheme. Not every person is ready to study its features. wet way better known to self-taught masters. It is used by them much more often. A little later we will talk about it in detail.

Types of BSP according to the degree of contact with the base - choose the appropriate option

Also screeds belong to different types depending on the level of their adhesion to the surface. From this point of view, they are:

1. Bound.
2. Floating.
3. On a special layer (it is called separating).

The pouring of the connected screeds is carried out directly on the working base, with which it is connected. No additional heat or waterproofing is provided between them. Such solutions are recommended for the following cases: a large area of the processed base, an initially flat floor, the need to obtain a BSP with a minimum mass, low level floors that cannot be lifted.

Associated structures are highly durable. They easily withstand tangible mechanical pressures, but are susceptible to moisture. It is best to equip them on dry floors between floors. apartment building in rooms where permanent places there is household equipment, furniture and so on.

Floating bundles are mounted on a pre-made cushion of hydro-, noise- and heat-insulating layers. The result is a kind of slab of concrete mortar, which is not tied to the walls of the room and to the floor. Such ties must be reinforced without fail. And their minimum thickness should be 5 cm. You can lay on a floating slab parquet board, linoleum, laminate flooring and others Decoration Materials. It is advisable to organize such screeds exclusively in apartments on the first floors.

If the floor surface is characterized by high humidity, it is recommended to pour BSP on a separating layer. It is equipped with a polymer film, roofing material, a special coating composition, foil foam boards. These waterproofers do not allow water to erode the screed and the floor base itself. The screed on the separating layer shows all its operational advantages when installed in private houses without basements, outbuildings, garages and other premises on the ground. It is also recommended to fill it in bathrooms and bathrooms.

Classic pouring mortar - proven over the years

For pouring traditional BSP, sand- cement mixture. Its proportions are known to all. For one part of cement, we take three parts of sand. We fill them with water. We get a solution that can fill any base (floor slabs, soil). In this case, the mixture for the screed should be prepared correctly. One mistake in choosing the material for it, a little extra water, and the solution will turn out to be of poor quality. Let's figure out how to avoid such problems.

In order for the solution to have the required characteristics, we carefully select the sand for it. We use exclusively quarry material. It is characterized by grains of sand that are irregular in shape. This provides the necessary level of adhesion of the screed to the base. Quarry sand should not contain clay inclusions.

Do not use washed river sand with grains of sand smoothed by water. The screed from it will turn out to be of poor quality. The hardened base will begin to crack and crumble very quickly. Of great importance is the volume of water with which the cement mixture is diluted. It is important not to overdo it here. If you add too much liquid, the solution will turn out to be spreading. It is quite convenient to work with him. But the strength of the screed, unfortunately, will be minimal. The poured surface will be loose and very loose. At concrete plants, water is topped up according to strict standards. There is no point in sticking to them in everyday life. We need to add enough water to the sand-cement composition to make the solution plastic and at the same time dense.

On average, 5 kg of the mixture requires about 1 liter of liquid. In practice, this volume may vary, since both cement and sand have their own moisture content. Another important point. It is strictly forbidden to use water in which there are residues of oil products, particles of technical oils and fats, and other pollutants. The liquid must be clean. And the mixing of the solution itself should be done in well-cleaned containers.

Ready mixes - if you want to finish everything quickly

BSP mortar can also be made using a dry mix made and packaged at the factory. Such a composition initially has the optimal ratio of the components included in it. Dry mixes are characterized by the following advantages:

1. They can be used for pouring floor slabs in the old apartment building and new building.
2. In terms of performance and strength characteristics, they are similar to screeds equipped with the classic composition described above.
3. Ease of use. The BSP device using ready-made mixtures does not require special knowledge. The technology for carrying out all work is indicated in the instructions attached to the dry composition. It is enough to strictly adhere to the instructions, and there will be no problems with the screed.

In addition, ready-made mixtures make it possible to make the so-called lightweight screed. It is indispensable for cases where it is impossible to equip a conventional concrete floor due to the high weight of the latter.

A light mixture usually consists of cement and perlite, vermiculite or expanded clay. Such compositions are used relatively recently. But they have already become quite popular, especially when apartments in new buildings are being equipped. Their main advantage lies in the fact that the light floor can be operated within a day after laying the dry mix.

How to get the job done - let's get started

The screed in the apartment is done in several stages. First we dismantle the old concrete base. The operation will have to be performed with a perforator. We act carefully so as not to damage the integrity of the floor slabs.

We clean and dedust the dismantled surface. close up concrete mortar or epoxy putty all the flaws (voids, cracks). After that:

1. Apply a primer (penetrating) to the prepared surface using a brush or roller.
2. We stick a damper elastic tape around the perimeter of the room. It will eliminate the contact of the screed with the walls and will act as a compensator for the expansion of the concrete structure.
3. We create a system of beacons. Using the building level (laser, water), we determine the zero level. We mark the floor. We install beacons (U-shaped metal profiles), attaching them with self-tapping screws to the base.
4. If necessary, we perform reinforcement of the future screed. Ready-made zinc-coated wire mesh is best suited for this purpose. We choose products with cells of 10 cm. Nuance. If the pouring area is small, a grid with 5 cm cells is sufficient.

Everything is ready for pouring concrete mix. The screed is recommended to be done at a room temperature of 15 to 25 ° C. At the same time, there should be no drafts in the room. If the temperature in the room is less than 5 ° is prohibited, from 5 to 14 - it is possible, but undesirable, since the concrete layer will harden for a very long time.

It is most convenient to fill the surface with two people. One person kneads the solution, the second immediately processes the floor with it and levels the resulting base. We always start the procedure from the far corner of the room and move towards the exit from it. The solution is poured between previously installed guides. We take its layer above the zero level of a centimeter by 1.5–2. We distribute the screed with a shovel (as an option - with a trowel, if the room has small area). With the same tools, we bayonet the concrete mixture, expelling air bubbles from it.

After the initial distribution of the composition, we put the rule on metal guides and begin to carefully level the concrete. The procedure is performed in zigzag movements - first transverse, then translational (or vice versa). We will have to work hard, since the purpose of this operation is to obtain the most smooth and even base. The finished screed can not be touched for a week. If it is hot outside, the coating will have to be moistened every day with water. The final hardening of the BSP is observed after 3-4 weeks.

2. Preparation of surfaces for leveling.

3. Methods for leveling surfaces.

4. Plastering walls.

5. Video.

A rare living space boasts perfectly even walls that were originally. This moment can negate all the efforts, aesthetics and reliability of the coating. Therefore, the first thing is to do everything as it should be, without neglecting this step.

1. How to understand that the walls are uneven?

Clarity will bring one of the ways with the use of tools. As a rule, there are not so many of them: plumb lines, building levels and rules.

Leading in demand - building rule and levels. Generally, optimal parameters- two or two and a half meters. In this case, they are the most functional: it is required that the tool vertically rise to almost the entire height of the wall, and also that it can be easily rotated diagonally. As a rule, if it is not in the home "arsenal", a perfectly flat rail can be used. But it should not be too thin, bending when force is applied, otherwise accurate measurements will not work. It will be enough of its size in the section of 20 × 50 mm. A rail, level or rule is applied to the wall surface vertically, horizontally and diagonally. Track the dimensions of the gaps formed between the wall and the tool, which will show the degree of surface roughness.

Another simple and affordable way check the verticality of the wall, which does not require expensive tools - use a plumb line. Even if the farm does not have such a device, it is easy to quickly make it yourself. This will require a thin but strong cord about three meters long, as well as a load weighing 150 ÷ 200 grams, best of all - a balanced, symmetrical shape. It is not difficult to use a plumb line: for this, a nail is driven into the wall, under the ceiling, stepping back from the joint 25 ÷ 30 mm, onto which the cord is fixed, and the load tied to it freely falls vertically along the wall. The load should hang freely, not reaching the floor by 10÷15 mm. When the load settles down and does not move, you can see how distorted the surface is - measure the gaps at various points along the height - and compare the results.

In addition to the evenness of the walls, it is necessary to check their perpendicularity, that is, the corners of the room must be straight. A building square will help in determining this parameter, which is applied in several places along the entire height of the joint and make the necessary marks. True, the square must be quite large in order to accurately identify possible deviations. If there is no large square, then it is better to apply the Egyptian triangle rule. To do this, two legs, multiples of 3 and 4, are laid off from the corner along the walls, and the hypotenuse should be a multiple of 5. For example, 1.5 m (0.5 × 3) is measured along one wall, and 2 m (0.5 × 4), and the distance between these points in a straight line should be 2.5 m (0.5 × 5). If this is not the case, then the angle is clearly different from the right one, and it is necessary to look for the cause and a way to eliminate it.

Probably the most optimal and accurate option is to use laser level(laser plane builder). This device sets perpendicular vertical planes, projects lines in space, along which simple measurements with comparisons of the gaps can easily reveal the uneven surfaces of the walls, their correspondence vertical plane and mutual perpendicularity. Having determined the deviations of the walls from the required plane, the location of irregularities - depressions or bulges, they immediately evaluate their approximate height or depth. - In the case when surface defects or deviations from the vertical plane are 8 ÷ 15 mm or more, the walls will have to be leveled by plastering on beacons or by installing drywall sheets. - If the differences do not exceed 5 ÷ 8 mm, then you can fix the surface by applying a thin layer of plaster or putty mortar.

2. Surface preparation for leveling

In order to understand what stages the work on leveling the walls consists of, it is worth considering these processes in more detail. However, before moving on to brief description each of the alignment methods, a few words should be said about the preparatory measures common to all technologies. Preparatory stage it can be difficult and tiring, but you should not brush it aside, as this is the guarantee of the quality of the leveled surface and its operational durability. It is especially necessary to carefully approach the preparation of walls for plastering, but drywall also requires its own special approach. So, the preparation of walls for further alignment includes several important operations, which include the following:

The first step of the wall must be completely cleared of decorative coating, if it is present on surfaces, it is removed old paint or wallpaper. These processes are made different ways which are detailed in a separate article.

After the walls are cleared of old finish, the plaster layer will open, which requires the most thorough examination. Such a revision is necessary, since cracks could appear on it during operation, or delamination, partial or complete, is not excluded. Depending on the degree of damage to the old plaster layer, it will have to be removed completely or a proper repair should be made. If this layer has a sufficiently large thickness, poor-quality material is used for it, and its surface is uneven, then it is better to get rid of it completely. If the wall has large protrusions, they will have to be knocked down, and small bulges should be sanded or brushed off with a metal brush.

If “wet” work is supposed to be on the wall, then to ensure electrical safety, the room will most likely have to be de-energized. Usually, in such cases, it is planned to replace sockets and switches, which means that the old ones must be dismantled and then the bare wires insulated.

After cleaning or repairing the surface of the wall, it must be primed several times - this is to strengthen and dedust the surface and to create conditions for reliable adhesion between the surface and the new leveling mortar.

After the final drying of the primer, you can proceed to the application of putty, plaster, or to the installation of special beacon profiles, along which the surfaces will be leveled.

If you plan to level with plaster wooden walls, then they are cleaned of dust and primed with an antiseptic primer for wood. After that, the dried walls are sheathed wooden slats- shingles, which will create a good adhesion of mortar and wood.

3. Methods for leveling surfaces

The choice of a method for leveling walls directly depends on their condition, that is, whether they have significant curvature, or whether it is simply necessary to eliminate a slight surface relief that can appear through layers of paint or. In fact, there are not so many technological methods for leveling walls. They have been used for more than a decade, but with the advent of new building materials- are constantly being improved. So, the alignment of the walls is carried out in the following ways:

Plastering, that is, applying a special mortar to the surface of the leveling layer. In turn, this method can be divided into two types - this is the alignment of the walls along the beacons and without their use.

Installation drywall sheets, setting the desired evenness of the wall surface (often also called "dry plaster"). This alignment option is also divided into two different approaches - this is the fixing of sheets on the frame, or the frameless fastening of the GVL directly to the wall.

Leveling the walls with putty This method of bringing the surface in order is used in combination with the other two mentioned above, or independently. If the walls have a smooth surface, without major geometric distortions, but there are small irregularities on it, then it is the putty that will help to bring them to perfect smoothness.

4. Plastering walls

A few words about leveling solutions Currently in construction stores a very wide range of ready-made building mixtures intended for plastering works is presented. They can be on different bases.

Cement-based plasters are used for outdoor work, as well as for rooms with a high level of humidity;

Gypsum mixtures are suitable for walls made of almost any material, but their scope is limited only to interior decoration. However, many master finishers and homeowners prefer to prepare their own plaster mortars. And the basis for this, in addition to cement or gypsum, can also be lime or clay. Lime and cement-lime mortars have proven themselves for external and interior decoration, and clay-based plasters are seen as generally inexpensive (in the presence of free raw materials) and are suitable for leveling wooden, clay or brick walls.

5. Video

Papier-mache in art, needlework is used as a material for making sculptures, puppets, fruit bowls, dolls and other items. You can make the most different crafts for the interior. The surface of papier-mâché is easily painted in the desired color, it can also be decorated.

How to make paper mache products

To prepare a mass of papier-mâché, you will need unnecessary newspapers or other paper, glue, water. Glue mixed with water in a ratio of 2/1. Newspapers should be cut into strips two centimeters wide or torn into small pieces. Combine the newspapers and the adhesive solution, mix until a homogeneous mixture with a spoon or bristle brush.

If you use stationery glue to make the material, keep in mind that difficulties may lie in wait for you when painting the molded product. The paint may refuse to adhere to the surface. It is best to prime the product with art white or acrylic primer before painting, and then cover it with paint.

Some products look better with a smooth surface. When pasting the form with strips of paper, it is not always possible to achieve perfect smoothness. But the procedure for leveling the surface is not as complicated as it might seem - you just need to be patient with it.

How to get a smooth papier-mâché surface

First you need to align the most noticeable pits by gluing small pieces of paper there. Do this until the surface looks more or less even. The product must be dried, after which the surface is treated with a fine-grained sandpaper. Perform the processing in circular light movements, pressing should be as light as possible. Remove paper fibers periodically with a rag. Coat the treated surface thickly with glue and dry well to upper layer became stronger. This procedure can be repeated several times to increase the strength of the top layer. After that, you can start painting, inlaying or decorating the surface in another way.

For minor roughness, cover the surface with several layers of PVA glue or use an aerosol varnish for cars.

If you want to paint the product, after the staining procedure is over, it is better to coat the surface with varnish in two or three layers. Varnish is suitable for both nitro and furniture, just make sure that the paint does not “float”. The product processed in this way will turn out smooth and shiny.

As an example, I will show how I color wooden surface.

In this case, this is a plywood blank - the basis for the clock. I will paint it.

For work you will also need:
- white acrylic paint(I always use OLIMP paint, brand - BETA, latex paint, matte),
- synthetic brush (preferably flat and wide),
- foam roller (usual construction, small, made of fine-meshed foam rubber).

Let's get to work:

1. Before I start, I will show you the paint that I use. You see it in the photo - acrylic paint company OLIMP, brand - BETA, latex paint, matte.

I've tried several similar colors, but this one is my favorite. It is very durable, elastic, does not get dirty after drying, it is easy to skin if necessary, it is easy to apply and it is very difficult to wash it off with water! And this is also important. Products covered with this paint can remain even without a varnish coating and nothing will happen to them.
You can use whatever paint you like best.

The choice of paint does not affect the process itself. The main thing in it is HOW to apply paint so that it is even.

2. My workpiece is quite large (about 40 cm in diameter), so I took a wide synthetic brush, because.need to work FAST- the paint dries quickly, and this cannot be allowed at this step! Apply paint with a wide brushbold strokes, chaotic.

Our task is to paint over the entire surface with such strokes, and do it as quickly as possible,until the paint sets. Below I show the stages of this painting.

4. Now we take a foam roller -necessarily DRY! By no means wet, otherwise bubbles from the water will go and desired effect will not work. With this roller, we begin to quickly roll out the entire surface. Need to rideat first with a little pressure, and at the end - barely pressingon the roller handle.

It should roll on the surface, as if by itself, we only guide it with our hands. With the first passes, you disperse the paint over the surface, and at the end, the roller simply levels the surface and leaves behind very small dots - traces of foam rubber.

The lighter you press on it, the smaller these marks will be.
Be sure to go through all the edges of the surface and make sure that the paint rolls out in a thin, even layer. Excess paint will take over the roller. And for this it must be dry.

Wet or damp foam rubber would make puddles and water bubbles on the surface of the paint, and large ones. And we don't need this at all.

5. This is how the surface should turn out. As you can see, there is not a single brush mark or anything similar on it. Everything is smooth and in small pimples.

Leave the workpiece - let the paint dry. This process can be speeded up with a hot hair dryer. With a hair dryer, this paint dries quickly - about 2-3 minutes is enough.

6. We place the tools with which we painted the surface: a brush - in a jar of water (just lower it and that’s it, you don’t need to rinse it there until it’s clean), a roller - in plastic bag and tie it well so that air does not pass through.

All this is done so that they do not dry out.

There is no need to wash them now, we will still apply a second layer with them. But you can’t leave it in the air either - the paint will dry out. By the way, if the package is tied up well, then in this form the roller can lie for several days. I usually do this if I do some kind of multi-day work.

7. The paint is dry. The surface brightened and became whiter.

8. We take out the brush from the water, dip it into the paint and again paint the entire surface, as we did for the first time. Everything is exactly the same.

This time we do it againFASTER. The second layer of paint, in contact with the first (it draws moisture from fresh paint), dries even faster. If somewhere the paint dried up while you were painting another area, paint over this piece again - all the paint should remain wet.

9. And again we take the roller in our hands, and we pass it over the entire surface, first with pressure, and at the end, barely touching, very gently, so that the roller leaves even and small marks - pimples.

10. Let the surface dry completely.

The result is such a smooth, slightly pimply surface. Then you can either decorate it - stick a printout or a napkin on it, or, if you like perfectly smooth surfaces, you can walk on itfine sandpaper(zero or close to zero) and level to perfect smoothness.

This is who you like.
Personally, I love rough surfaces, and then I work with the surface that is obtained after painting.

In exactly the same way, I paint other products - caskets (wood), trays (wood or plastic), watering cans (metal), bottles (glass), vases (ceramics) and so on. Two coats of paint is enough. I rarely put on a 3rd coat.

That's the whole secret of my flat surface.
I hope it will help you in your work, and your products will be perfectly even!

A number of wood products sometimes want to be made perfectly even, so that their surface is glossy and smooth, like glass. WITH modern materials and accessible hand tools, this can be done without difficulty even for a beginner. True, sometimes you need to practice on materials that are more accessible and improvised, so as not to spoil the finished product during such decoration. In this step by step instructions we will tell you how to make a perfectly smooth wooden surface with your own hands.

materials

Before you start, you will need to prepare:

sandpaper different grain sizes (than more options you will have, the better);
protective gloves;
components for breeding epoxy resin;
empty container;
wooden spatula;
plastic polish;
rags for polishing;
soldering lamp.

Step 1. First, you need to carefully treat the wooden surface that you decide to make perfectly smooth. This step is very important, the success of your event depends on it.

Take coarse-grained paper and treat the surface completely with it. After that, go to a slightly lighter grit paper and continue until you have used all the paper you have collected and the surface of the wood is very smooth.

Periodically during operation, brush off the resulting dust with a rag or dry brush.

Step 2. Make sure the prepared surface is free of dust and deep scratches. If they are, in the next stages the flaws will come out. Get rid of all irregularities while sanding the surface.

Step 3. Take the components for diluting the epoxy resin solution and mix them in an empty container, in the ratio indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions.

When mixing the ingredients, mix them with a wooden spatula. Try not to slosh the mixture too much so that bubbles do not form in it.

Step 4. Pour the prepared epoxy solution onto the prepared wood surface.
You can practice in advance on any other wooden products. You need to define for yourself optimal height during resin spill. If you raise the container too high, bubbles will form on the surface. IN finished product they will not look aesthetically pleasing. If you pour too low, you won't get a perfectly smooth surface either. The resin will have to be leveled manually over the surface.

Step 5. If after pouring the epoxy you see a small amount of bubbles. Process them immediately by bringing a lit blowtorch to the surface for this.

Under the influence of the flame, the bubbles will burst, and the surface will become smooth. Do not hold the lamp for too long, otherwise the composition will light up.

Step 6. After the epoxy has dried, which usually takes about a day, take fine-grained sandpaper and carefully sand the surface. Pour the second layer of epoxy. Similarly, in case of bubbles, treat it with a blowtorch.