Peas belong to the legume family. He came to us in Russia from Southeast Asia. Even more specifically: it is believed that the birthplace of peas is Northwest India. Today, peas are grown in more than 60 countries around the world, in the fields and summer cottages. Not worth it once again mention the benefits of green peas, this is already obvious. But there is one interesting fact: it is useful to eat at least 3 kg of peas per year. Do you fit into this number?
Useful Neighborhood
We grow peas in both summer cottages without taking a separate bed, but interspersing it with other cultures. There was an unoccupied section of the ridge - we plant peas. Turns out it's super helpful. Peas saturate the soil with nitrogen, which favorably affects neighboring plants. In addition, the roots of peas are able to go far into the depths of the soil, extracting nutrients from its lower layers. Part useful substances spills over to neighboring cultures. Thus, thanks to peas, plants receive additional nutrition. That is why peas are considered an excellent inter-row crop.
The best neighbors for peas in the garden
Since we have touched on the topic of the benefits of peas for vegetables growing in the neighborhood, we list the list the best neighbors for peas in the garden: where is it better to plant peas, next to which crops. Source of information: the book "Preparing the site for spring" (
Next to what you can plant peas:
- with cucumbers
- carrots
- potato,
- radish,
- corn,
- beans
- spicy herbs.
It is believed that these cultures are well combined with each other.
Bad neighbors for peas:
- garlic,
- clover,
- alfalfa.
It is believed that these cultures are not compatible with each other.
Pea precursors
Peas react sensitively to crops grown in the garden before it. It is not recommended to plant peas in the same place where they grew last summer. It will be possible to re-sow peas in this area after 4 years.
Good predecessors of peas in the garden:
- cucumbers, tomato, cabbage, potatoes.
Bad predecessors of peas in the garden:
- legumes (beans and beans).
It is believed that peas can be grown after any vegetable crops, with the exception of "relatives" from the legume family. If the gardener manages to harvest peas in the first half of summer, then this area can be sown with radishes.
Soil for peas
Despite the fact that peas themselves are able to enrich the soil with nutrients, they themselves require certain conditions for growth. We list them (source: the book "Peas, Beans and Beans", author Fatyanov V.I.). As for the soil:
- Peas love soils that are neutral in acidity. To improve the composition of the soil for peas, ash is added to it (1 glass per 1 square meter).
- Sunny areas with an acidity of 6-7 are considered the best for peas.
- Peas succeed on medium sandy and light loamy soils.
- soil for peas they begin to cook in the fall: they dig it deep and fertilize it, adding half a bucket of humus or compost, 35 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2.
- In the spring, before planting, re-deep loosening is carried out.
- In a place where peas have not been grown before, nitragin is applied,
- Because the pea itself is good fertilizer, then after harvesting the stems and leaves of peas are recommended to be sealed in trunk circles under fruit trees or put in compost.
Peas do not like:
- weeds. It does not grow well in weedy and poor areas, so the soil should be freed from weeds before planting and the bed should be kept clean during the entire growing season.
- Waterlogged heavy clay soils. From dampness, the leaves of peas turn yellow, and the roots rot. It also increases the risk of fungal infection.
Favorable conditions:
- Long daylight.
- Seeds germinate already at temperatures from +2 to +6 degrees, but the regime from +18 to +20 degrees is considered optimal.
- The culture is cold-resistant, and even young shoots easily tolerate frosts down to -6 degrees.
Peas ripen depending on the variety:
- late-ripening varieties 100-125 days,
- mid-season 85-100 days,
- early/early 65-85 days,
- super-early varieties 40-65 days.
Not everyone manages to grow a good crop of cabbage on the site, because it is greedy for it. a large number of pests. Many, once disappointed, no longer risk planting this crop. However, if you know what is best to plant next to the cabbage, you can extra effort not only naturally protect it from pests, but also improve the composition of the soil.
The mechanism of work of phytoncides plants
If cabbage has to be defended from flying insects twice during the summer - during egg laying periods (usually late May and early August), then it is necessary to protect the plant from bedbugs, root secretive proboscis, fleas, beetles during the entire growing season. The most effective simultaneous landing herbs and flowering plants-phytoncides, exuding biologically active substances.
Creating natural protection against pests will require some effort only at the initial stage, but later you can get a number of nice bonuses:
- improving the taste of cabbage;
- decoration of the site throughout the season;
- the opportunity to stock up for the winter with their own spices and medicinal natural raw materials.
Useful planting next to cabbage beds will protect it regardless of weather conditions.
Flowers - protection from insects and improvement of the soil
The worst enemies of cabbage are the white butterfly and the mining moth. Their larvae are capable of causing irreparable damage in a short time. Marigolds (tagetes) are ubiquitous bright flowers with a specific smell. If you plant them along the contour of the garden, as well as directly next to the cabbage, then for butterflies and moths, the attractiveness of this place will be lost. Marigolds exude phytoncides both from inflorescences and from roots, repelling aphids, whiteflies, bears, moths, protecting against some fungi, as well as nematodes.
A number of other colors have the same properties.
- A calendula that can be planted once, and in subsequent years the plant is already able to reproduce by self-sowing.
- Tansy. The bush can grow in one place for several years. It should not be planted directly on a bed with cabbage, since tansy has a depressing effect on its growth.
- Chamomile.
Nasturtium is also a phytoncide. But these flowers actively attract aphids, which ants often transfer to neighboring plants. Many advise planting nasturtium around cabbage as an "interceptor" for whites and moths, but there is no guarantee that pests will be limited to it.
Of all the flowers suitable for protecting cabbages and other crops, marigolds are still the most popular.
For protection to be effective, care should be taken in advance. By the time the cabbage is planted, the flowers should already bloom and exude a smell. Tagetes sprouts literally 3-4 days after sowing, grows at favorable conditions fast, unpretentious. In a month and a half, you can grow decent bushes with buds that need to be planted in the aisles and along the contour of the ridge.
Useful neighborhood: spicy herbs and vegetables
Some vegetables and herbs will not only help to cope with cabbage pests, but also form a mutually beneficial alliance with it.
It will save not only from the scoop, but also from the mining moth, perennial spicy tarragon grass. If a large bush grows next to a garden bed, then the butterflies become disoriented and instinctively fly around it. It is enough to plant tarragon once for several years, but it is prone to overgrowth, so it is better to immediately protect the space around it with dug-in border tape.
Sage and savory also effectively repel whitefly, whitefly, and earthen flea butterflies. And mint also dares ants who love to spread aphids from the beds.
It is useful to plant bushes of tomatoes around the beds with cabbage. These odorous plants create a kind of protective halo around themselves, through which cruciferous pests do not pass. This property tomatoes was discovered a long time ago and is actively used by many summer residents: after pinching, tomato branches are laid out in the aisles of cabbage, radish, radish. However, soon after withering, they lose their abilities, so it is easier to plant several bushes side by side. Moreover, even if the weather does not allow the crop to ripen, then the tomatoes will perform their protective function properly.
Not all varieties of cabbage grow well next to tomatoes, so they can be planted along the contour, interspersed with marigolds according to the approximate “1 through 5” scheme.
Cabbage gets along well next to all types of leafy lettuces, which not only do not compete with it for nutrients, but also stimulate root formation and protect against earthen flea.
Slugs also like to feast on cabbage, especially young leaves. However, these creatures are very gentle and prefer to stay away from traumatic surfaces. This allows plants to be protected by creating a mechanical barrier. If you plant borage grass (borage) with hard, fleecy leaves along the contour of the bed, then slugs and snails will not encroach on cabbage. They do not like the smell of garlic, sage, chicory, onion and rosemary. If you plant these plants along the borders of the cabbage beds, you can protect the seedlings from damage.
Bad "neighbors"
Sometimes, without knowing it, gardeners attract pests by placing unwanted plants next to the cabbage. One of these is celery. This grass repels earth flies, but at the same time actively lures the cabbage butterfly.
Plants such as:
- carrot;
- caraway;
- parsnip;
- turnip;
- radish.
The above cultures attract white butterflies, as well as mining moths, whose caterpillars then actively eat cabbage.
Each plant synthesizes its own substances, with which it saturates not only the air, but also the soil around it, therefore, when planting various crops together, the nuances of such a neighborhood should be taken into account. Cabbage grows poorly next to levkoy, parsley, bush beans, garden strawberries.
It is also important to take into account the different moisture requirements. For example, spinach should not be planted nearby, as it requires significantly more water than cabbage. As a result, a root fungus will develop, inhibition of the formation of heads will begin.
Each plant has its own set of nutrients. Cabbage needs a lot of nitrogen, and tomatoes, onions, and celery also love it. But radishes, nasturtiums and greens of this element do not need much, so you can plant them along the contour of the beds.
White cabbage and cauliflower do not get along side by side, the yield of both types decreases. Everyone needs their own bed, preferably at least a meter away. Does not love cauliflower and broccoli. Brussels is more tolerant, but tomatoes should not grow near it.
Fennel is an extremely aggressive plant, so it should not be planted with cabbage or other vegetables.
Joint plantings (mixed beds), subject to proper selection of crops, help gardeners rationally use the usable area, while improving yields.
Cabbage usually grows well without requiring special conditions and meticulous care. Her main enemy- pests. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to regularly process plantings, collect caterpillars and beetles, so you can use the help of nature - plant near the garden and in the aisles of permanent responsible "watchmen" - volatile plants. Although they do not give an absolute guarantee of getting rid of insect enemies, their contribution is very significant.
We decided to supplement our article with illustrative pictures and additional recommendations, since we often see questions about what cannot be planted next to what, and what can be planted with what?
"Can I plant cabbage and tomatoes next to each other?", "Can I plant potatoes and cucumbers next to each other?", "Plant tomatoes and corn next to each other?", "Plant onions and garlic together?" etc.
Visual plate Plants "Enemies" and "Friends" for you.
If you do not guess with the neighbors of the plants, you can get not just a small crop, but even be completely left without it. After all, enemy plants take useful minerals from each other from the ground, and also suffer from similar diseases and the risk of infection will be 50% more!
Tomatoes will be against the neighborhood with carrots, cauliflower, potatoes, fennel, beets and cucumbers. Beans will not like it if onions, peas, garlic, fennel or leeks grow next to them. Not the best neighbors for beans and beets, kohlrabi or sunflowers.
| Plants - ENEMIES | Plants - FRIENDS | ||
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Both cabbage and tomatoes need space and light. They will just block each other. And they also need the same nutrients from the soil, so planting them side by side should be abandoned, otherwise there is a risk of simply stopping the growth of plants. |  |
Zucchini, pumpkin, corn and beans (and other legumes) can be planted together. |
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Asparagus does not grow well next to onions, as well as with garlic. This is because asparagus is a close relative of onions, leeks, garlic, as well as hyacinths and lilies. |  |
Tomato and basil can be planted together. The taste of tomatoes will be improved, the smell of basil and other herbs will scare away the pest. Plant them side by side, but not on the same bed. All the same, tomatoes need space. And also tomato + garlic are wonderful neighbors. |
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It is not only about competition for space and nutrients, the proximity of dill, fennel, kohlrabi and pepper can lead to the death of plants or to severe stunting , but the MAIN thing is that they need different conditions cultivation. |
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Carrots and radishes can be planted side by side, their root depth is different, watering is the same, and carrots will scare away pests from radish leaves. |
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Bad neighbors are cucumber, potatoes and lettuce. And also, fragrant herbs should not be added to cucumbers either. The exception is dill. Cucumber and dill go well together. |  |
For the same reasons (see above), carrots can be planted next to lettuce. |
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Do not plant corn next to tomatoes - these crops are prone to the same fungal diseases. Bad neighbors for tomatoes are potatoes, cucumbers, carrots and beets. | ||
Each crop in the garden has its own characteristics. One needs enough light, the other feels comfortable in partial shade. The requirements for irrigation and the occupied area are also different. The root system of plants is also different. In some plants, it goes deep into the soil, while in others, the roots are located near the surface of the earth. In addition, some plants have a detrimental effect on one or another pest. And if you take into account all the features of garden crops and combine them during planting?
Compatibility of crops in the garden will provide an opportunity not only to rationally use the area for planting, but also to protect plants from diseases and pests in a natural way, to ensure proper growth and maturation of plants, thereby increasing the quality and quantity of the crop.
If you correctly place crops on your site, then even in the conditions of non-chernozem and a small plot it is possible to get a decent harvest from the garden. The compatibility of crops in the garden is practiced by mixed and compacted crops. Cultures must be selected taking into account their mutual influence on each other.
Compatibility of crops in the garden
B azilic gets along well with peas and kohlrabi, but does not like the neighborhood with a cucumber.
Eggplant I agree to the neighborhood with green annual herbs, onions, beans, peppers, bush beans, spinach, thyme, amaranth. Fennel and peas are not the best neighbors for eggplant.
B oby vegetable feel great with peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshade, parsley, rhubarb, radish, cucumber, table beet, garden savory. Onions, fennel, garlic and pumpkin are incompatible with beans.
Peas will be happy to be next to white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic herbs, spinach and lettuce. And on the contrary will not be happy onion, tomato, beans, garlic, zucchini.
mustard perfectly compatible with cabbage (white, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower), peas, radish. Other plants in the garden will also fit mustard as neighbors.
D aikon, for example, does not like neighbors at all and is not good for neighbors himself!
D ynya compatible with sweet corn, pumpkin, zucchini, radish. But it does not get along well with onions and potatoes.
And ssop officinalis with crops in the garden is not good friends.
To the marrow grows well next to tomato, beetroot, onion, corn, melon, pumpkin, borage, nasturtium. bad neighbors for zucchini are potatoes and white cabbage.
Cabbage white cabbage feels great next to dill, celery, onions, garlic, lettuce, potatoes, cucumber, radishes, beets, beans, spinach, mint, nasturtium, marigolds, and is not friendly with tomatoes, carrots, table beans and curly beans and peas.
Broccoli compatible with potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beetroot, celery, sage, chard, marigolds. Broccoli does not go well with tomatoes and beans.
To apusta kohlrabi will be glad to be next to onions, cucumbers, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, beetroot, peas, fennel, spinach. Bad neighborhood with tomato and beans.
K apusta leaf gets along well with all plants in the garden, but especially with late white cabbage and potatoes.
Savoy apusta does not get along well with all crops in the garden.
Cauliflower will feel comfortable with potatoes, cucumber, lettuce, celery, beans, beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, sage. The neighborhood with tomato and strawberries will not work.
Potato gets along well with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, eggplant and onions, beans, calendula, corn, onions, radishes, radishes, garlic, but absolutely will not tolerate the neighborhood of tomato, cucumber, pumpkin, sorrel, fennel.
To the ress salad he will be happy to be next to radishes, but other plants in the garden will not interfere with him.
K ruknek and L agenaria love to grow up with loneliness.
Corn will be supportive of peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans, beans, lettuce. It does not get along well with table beets and fennel.
Leek a good neighbor for onions, carrots, celery.
Bulb onions compatible with Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, beetroot, cucumber, tomato, lettuce chicory, savory, potatoes, strawberries. It will feel bad next to peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, radishes.
Marjoram garden compatible with carrots, but will not tolerate cucumber nearby.
Carrot good to plant next to tomatoes, peas, broccoli, leek, onion, cucumber, parsley, radish, lettuce, beetroot, sage, spinach, radish, celery. Incompatible plants for carrots are dill, anise, fennel, cabbage, beet chard.
Oh gourtsy it is very good to plant with peas or late white cabbage, sugar corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel, but they should not be planted next to potatoes and aromatic herbs. Bad neighbors will also be tomatoes, sage, asparagus, zucchini, rhubarb, turnips, leeks.
Pasternak friendly with salad. But his friendship with onions and garlic fails.
P attison prefers loneliness, he does not like anyone's neighborhood.
Pepper compatible with eggplant, tomatoes, basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, onions. Will not be too happy with dill, fennel, cucumber, kohlrabi.
leaf parsley with pleasure will share a bed with basil, onions, cucumber, asparagus, tomato, beans, carrots. Not too happy with a head salad.
R even makes great friends with peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans and spinach. But he will not be happy with turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes and onions.
R edis friends with cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomato, beans, beans, fennel, spinach, zucchini, pumpkin. Not satisfied with his neighborhood with onions, beet chard.
D ruddy radish-beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumber, pumpkin and tomato (plant without thickening), and enemies are hyssop, onion, fennel.
R epa feels good next to onions (all types), beets, spinach, celery, lettuce, bush beans, dill. It is important to plant plants in the garden freely. Turnips will be uncomfortable next to potatoes.
With alatu suitable neighbors such as: cabbage, carrots, beets, dill.
Beet gets along well with all cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans. Bad neighborhood with potatoes, mustard.
Celery compatible with white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, onion, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach. Not compatible with celery head lettuce, potatoes.
From Parza grows well next to basil, parsley and tomato. Bad neighbors for asparagus are onions of all kinds.
Tomatoes (tomatoes) will grow well with basil, cabbage, all onions, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach. Bad companions for tomatoes are peas, potatoes, kohlrabi cabbage, garden quinoa, cucumbers, turnips, dill, fennel.
Pumpkin perfectly coexists with zucchini, squash, melon. Pumpkin will not be happy only with potatoes.
Beans ordinary remarkably grows next to peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshade, parsley, rhubarb, radish, cucumber, beetroot, garden savory. Onion, pumpkin, garlic, fennel do not get along well with common beans.
Bush beans compatible with cucumber, potato, cabbage, head lettuce, turnip, radish, radish, rhubarb, celery, spinach, tomato. Not a very good neighborhood will be with asparagus, curly beans, zucchini, fennel.
Horseradish goes well with potatoes.
C icorium lettuce will well accept onions, carrots, tomatoes, fennel.
H aber garden compatible with watercress, onion, parsley, tomatoes, beans, dill, spinach. Cucumber is not suitable as a neighbor.
Garlic willingly make friends with carrots, cucumber, parsley, lettuce, tomato, beets, celery, beans. Next to peas, cabbage, beans, garlic will not grow comfortably.
Spinach compatible with such crops: cabbage (all types), potatoes, carrots, turnips, garden strawberries, beets, beans, tomatoes. Zucchini, asparagus, fennel do not coexist very well with spinach.
For convenience, use the crop compatibility table in the garden:
Vegetable crop compatibility table:
Culture compatibility table Another important aspect when selecting components for mixed crops on your site, these are:
The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects
Onion repellent effect on spider mites;
Machorka on a cabbage fly;
Garlic And wormwood cruciferous fleas will not like it;
tomatoes have a bad effect on tinnitus and moth;
The smell of celery repels the cabbage fly.
You can also fight harmful insects with the help of wild plants.
For this, gardeners and gardeners often use infusions.
For example:
The drug from chamomile inflorescences repels and even destroys many pests of the garden.
To prepare the drug, chamomile inflorescences are collected and dried. After that, they are ground into powder, mixed with an equal amount of road dust.
For spraying take 200 gr. powder, stir in a small amount of water and add water to the norm of 10 liters. This drug is absolutely harmless, and it can process various crops even before harvesting.
against aphids and spider mite, which are very harmful to cucumbers and cabbage, the plants are sprayed with an infusion of potato tops.
In order to prepare such an infusion, we need 1.2 kg of crushed mass. Insist 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and filter.
For the same purpose, you can use:
ABOUTcreature stepchildren and tops of tomatoes.
For this, green mass is taken at the rate of 40 g per 1 liter of water and, after grinding, boil over low heat for up to 30 minutes. One glass of the broth obtained in this way is enough for 1 liter of water. 30 g of soap or washing powder are added to the finished broth and the plants are sprayed.
Against aphids and mites, an infusion of onion peel, chamomile, tobacco, garlic, yarrow, horse sorrel roots and dandelion leaves also helps.
We will describe in more detail about pests and crop compatibility in further publications.
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